Oil burner fuel unit air removal process:
Air enters the heating oil piping system if you have run out of heating oil and will remain even after the oil tank has been re-filled. Air can also enter the piping system at leaky fittings.
Air in heating oil piping or at the oil burner will either prevent the oil burner from running at all or it may risk a puffback explosion.
Here we describe two methods for removing air from heating oil lines and from the oil pump or fuel unit on oil-fired heating equipment.
This article series describes the function, diagnosis, adjustment, and repair of oil burner fuel units or "oil pumps", and we provide related oil burner fuel unit safety, heating system efficiency and heating cost savings advice.
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Beckett points out in their oil burner installation instructions that it is essential to vent air out of the oil piping and out of the fuel unit itself during installation.
In the oil burner fuel unit shown at left, the AIR BLEEDER valve on the fuel unit is labelled at the lower left.
[Click to enlarge any image]
You'll see a rounded fitting that looks suspiciously like an automobile brake system bleeder valve installed on fuel units for that purpose.
We attach a clear plastic tube to the fitting, put the other end of the fitting into a clear jar where we can watch for the end of air bubbles, then run the system and loosen the oil system air bleeder valve to pump oil and air through the fuel unit until no more air bubbles are occurring.
This procedure will usually be necessary if an oil fired heating system has run completely out of oil as well as after servicing to replace an oil filter or to repair oil line piping.
1. The air bleeder screw on the oil canister - for one-line oil piping systems & above-ground oil storage tanks
The small air bleeder screw found on the cap of some (not all) oil filter canisters will bleed some of the air out of the canister and oil line IF the oil storage tank oil level is higher in elevation than the canister top.
This is done with the burner OFF.
In the photo I'm using a pencil to point to the air bleed screw on a General brand oil filter canister.
This screw is normally used to remove air from the canister when the oil filter has been replaced.
Put a pan underneath the oil filter canister to catch oil that will run out around the air bleeder screw.
The screw is loosened and you wait until you see oil coming out of the opening, then it's re-tightened, taking care not to strip the threads on the small screw.
Watch out: you do not need to fully remove the screw (though some techs do that). Just loosening it may be enough to see an oil-air mix flow.
When oil flow freely out around the screw or from the screw opening you re-tighten the screw.
Watch out: don't lose the small washer-gasket used under this screw or the oil canister will leak oil out and air in, causing improper and even unsafe oil burner operation.
Normally we replace that tiny washer when we change the oil filter. You can see details about the oil filter canister and the three critical sealing gaskets it needs
Also
where we describe the sources of air & oil leaks at and around the heating oil filter.
This oil filter canister air bleeding procedure won't work with a buried oil storage tank, but, then, buried tanks almost certainly will be using a two-line oil piping system that is self-priming.
2. The air bleeder fitting on the fuel unit - for one-line oil piping systems
The tech attaches a clear plastic tube of suitable length to the air bleeder fitting on the fuel unit on the oil burner, the burner is forced on, perhaps using a wire jumper on thermostat terminals, the tech puts the other end of the tube into a receiver, typically a quart or larger in size, often a small bucket.
We describe the steps in this procedure just below.
You can begin to see why this is not a procedure for the homeowner.
My photo shows a Beckett CleanCut A2EA-6258 fuel unit. The oil / air bleeder fitting is at lower right and circled in blue.
Then with burner on she opens the bleeder screw until foamy air-filled oil starts coming out.
When the oil runs clear without bubbles she closes the bleeder.
Watch out: be sure to tell your service tech that you pressed the re-set button repeatedly. Even though there was not sufficient oil delivery for the burner to run, there could be a puffback explosion risk.
The tech will inspect the combustion chamber and if in her opinon it's oil-soaked the chamber may need to be cleaned or left to dry a time before turning on the oil burner.
I DO NOT recommend that you try these procedures if you're not trained and equipped to do so.
Watch out: Do not allow oil to spray into a hot combustion chamber while bleeding air from the pump. Install a gauge in the nozzle discharge port tubing or fully open the pump bleed valve to prevent oil spray from accumulating in the combustion chamber during the air bleed procedure. - Weil-McLain cited below.
Failure to take this precaution risks an explosion; see details
Two pipe oil burner systems do not normally need to be air- bled since the fuel unit will return any excess air along with oil down the return line and back into the oil tank.
2018/03/12 Ellen said:
Regarding:
Watch out: Most heating technicians and inspectors will tell you to only press the reset button once. That's because we worry that a homeowner will keep pressing the button even though the oil burner flame is never igniting.
[Click to enlarge any image]
What happens if I have pushed the reset button several times? Does the excess oil ever drain away? How do I know if it is safe to bleed the line and try to ignite?
After my heating oil tank ran completely dry I had it refilled but it would not heat. I tried the reset button several times (maybe 8 or 10 pushes of the button).
Know I realize I need to bleed the line but I’m afraid I will start a fire from the built up oil from pushing the reset button.
1. Does this oil ever drain out so it is safe to ignite?
2. What can I do about this?
This question and reply were posted originally at RESET SWITCH, HEATER REPAIR and also discussed by private email.
Bleeding air from an oil burner supply line is not something normally tried by a homeowner. You'd need at least a smidgen of training on which fittings are used, where to try to bleed air, how to avoid spilling oil all over the place.
Even knowing how to do the procedure I would prefer to ask the heating service tech to do the job.
Spilled heating oil is not, however highly flammable.
Watch out: What IS dangerous is to keep pressing that reset button. Don't do that. Each time the oil burner tries to start it's spraying some un-burned fuel oil into the combustion chamber.
When it is finally ignited, all of that collected fuel can cause dangerous
PUFFBACKS, OIL BURNER - an explosion of un-burned fuel that sends soot all over the place and can blow parts off of the heating system
With those warnings given, the two procedures for removing air from an oil heat piping system, fuel unit, and oil burner are given starting
at OIL BURNER FUEL UNIT AIR BLEED PROCEDURE and the procedure that would apply to your situation is given starting
at OIL BURNER FUEL UNIT AIR BLEEDER
These additional instructions fit at step 4 of the
general OIL BURNER PUMP AIR PURGE & PRIMING instructions given above.
Watch out: the procedure below is for Beckett AF/AFG series oil burners. Other oil burners may have no special procedure or will have a different procedure for keeping the burner operating during air bleed-out. Consult the oil burner manual for your system.
4.1. After the burner starts, press and hold the reset
button for 15 seconds until the yellow light turns on.
This indicates that the button has been held long
enough.
4.2. Release the reset button. The yellow light will turn
off and the burner will start up again.
4.3. At burner start up, click the reset button while the
igniter is still on. This will transition the control
to a dedicated Pump Prime mode, during which
the motor, igniter, and valve are powered for four
minutes. The yellow light will be on.
At the end of 4 minutes, the yellow light will turn off
and the control will automatically return to standby
mode. - Weil-McLain / Beckett AF/AFG manual cited below.
- BECKETT AF/AFG GOLD OIL BURNER SERIES MANUAL [PDF] retrieved 2017/12/31 original source: https://www.weil-mclain.com/sites/default/files/field-file/wgo-beckett-afg-burner-manual_1.pdf
Watch out: before running the Riello oil burner fuel unit during the priming or air-removal procedure below, to protect the pump gears, it is advisable to lubricate the pump prior to purging a lift system. Apply oil through the VACUUM PORT (C).
Watch out: Omitting steps 2 and 3 will result in a collection of unburned oil in the combustion chamber creating a hazardous situation upon burner startup. [IE a puffback explosion]
- RIELLO OIL BURNER OPERATION MANUYAL [PDF] retrieved 2018/03/14, original source: http://serl.qc.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/manuel40-F15.pdf
...
Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.
On 2020-01-24 - by (mod) - installing a filter in the return line of a 2-pipe heating oil system ?
Thanks for the note, Reybo, I'm pleased that you've found our website useful.
I'm not at all familiar with installing a filter in the return line of a 2-pipe heating oil system and I'm pretty nervous about it. ANY restriction on the return line is prohibited as risking blowing the oil pump seals and setting the building on fire.
And a big 1-gallon filter on a residential system is pretty unusual; maybe the installer was afraid of restricting the return (so why not put a filter where it belongs, on the input?) or maybe she already knew that this particular system was being fed oil sludge from an old oil tank.
Besides, putting the filter on the return side means we send all of the crud into the oil pump, into the nozzle and into the oil combustion system - exactly what we're trying to avoid.
In turn, fouling up the oil combustion can be exactly what leads to a puffback explosion.
Watch out: also, ANY possible restriction (such as a blocked or clogged oil filter) on the return line of a two pipe oil delivery system to an oil burner is unsafe, risking a blown fuel unit seal and potentially a building fire.
All of which make one wonder who set up your system and whether or not they were trained.
I'm not the most-knowledgable guy about this topic but back in 1984 if you were in upstate NY or in my hometown of Richmond I'd have been happy to come by to show you the air bleed procedure as at the time I was actually servicing oil fired equipment.
And my oil burner school teacher would have had some ##&@@!! things to say about your installation.
On 2020-01-24 by Reybo - oil filter installed on the fuel unit oil return line?
Just discovered this site in 2020 after having to educate myself on servicing my 1952 Quiet May furnace. I needed you in 1984 when we moved in.
During that summer I saw that the company whose sticker showed they maintained the equipment had installed a 1 gallon(!) oil filter in the return line. Right .. the return line, and none in the supply.
I could write a book about this system: the failure every January, the Bantam burner that matched no description of its instruction book and allowed no standard adjusting tools, and the time the safety switch failed and I discovered it was running without fire after 20 minutes. Bad?
If I wasn't working in the next room and had a 6th sense, it would have been days of pumping oil into the firebox, soaking the brick.
Of course soaking did happen. After I replaced the safety switch, I opened the door to the box and let it air for 7 24-hour days. Then I turned the power on. You could call the explosion a "puffback" but that would ignore that the entire unit jumped on the floor with a huge bang and the chimney vent was blasted across the room. It missed my head by nearly a foot. The firebricks were still on fire 5 days later.
In time I replaced the Bantam with a used Beckett and became a normal Virginia house.
On 2020-01-09 by (mod) - where the heck is the air bleeder screw on this Beckett oil burner's oil pump?
Colin
I couldn't see the air bleeder screw in your photos either.
Take a look at the bleeder fitting at the top of this page in the very first photo. It's Circled.
Almost every fuel unit that has an air bleed while have a fitting that looks like that and last for some reason it was removed and plugged.
If you can give me a clear photo of the label or brand or just tell me the brand and model of the fuel unit (oil pump) on your Beckett burner then we can for-sure point out the location of the air bleeder fitting.
On 2020-01-09 by Colin
On 2020-01-09 by Colin
On 2020-01-09 by Colin
Hi - I am trying to locate the bleeder on my Beckett oil pump but it is not obvious. Ive added some pictures. Can you help me identify what each of the labeled parts are for and where I may find the bleeder? Thanks
On 2018-10-04 by (mod) -
At our home page for oil burner fuel units OIL BURNER FUEL UNIT
we explain that The typical fuel unit used on modern oil burners does not have a high lift capacity - perhaps 6 feet would be a safe lift level for a one-line oil pipe installation.
A two line oil piping system, required for buried oil tanks or oil tanks located below the oil burner, increases the "lift" capacity of the fuel unit and also nearly eliminates oil piping priming problems.
The specific lift capacity will depend in the pump brand and model.
On 2018-10-03 by Brian
I am installing a new diesel tank with top openings. Will be pump in the 'burner' be powerful enough to suck fuel from 1.7 metres above? Do I need an additional electric pump?
...
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