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Photograph of a modern oil-fired heating boiler Heating System Repair FAQs

Heating system installation, repair, maintenance questions & answers:

Q&A on how to inspect, diagnose & repair a heating system furnace, boiler, electric heat, heat pump, or other heating equipment.

These heating system articles answer questions about all types of building heating systems and describe how to inspect, diagnose, and repair heating system problems, how to cut heating bills, and heating system safety, heating system efficiency and heating trouble-shooting advice.

InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.

- Daniel Friedman, Publisher/Editor/Author - See WHO ARE WE?

Heating System Inspection Methods, Diagnosis, Safety, Repairs

Gas furnace schematic (C) Carson Dunlop AssociatesThese Q&As were posted originally at HEATING SYSTEMS- home. In these heating system articles we explain how to inspect and detect all defects and hazards on heating systems, boilers, furnaces, and other equipment.

[Click to enlarge any image]

On 2021-01-21 by mod) - Trance furnace blower and venter motor continues to run after heat shuts off

Greg

There are two diagnostic articles I'd ask you to check out:

FURNACE FAN WONT STOP - for the case when the furnace blower fan never stops

and

FURNACE FAN CYCLES AFTER HEAT - for the case in which the fan turns back on for a time after turning off at the end of a heat-on cycle

Let me know if those work for you and do not hesitate to ask for further help.

On 2021-01-21 by Greg Helton

Trance furnace blower and venter motor continues to run after heat shuts of f

On 2020-12-15 - by (mod) -

Robert

I'm sorry that you had to wait for attention. Please consider that your wait was just eleven seconds,and that we have thousands of readers in hundreds of questions at any given moment. So it's often the case that we cannot form a thoughtful research authoritative free accurate reply immediately.

Your question and a reply were posted at

inspectapedia.com/heat/Combustion_Air_Requirements.php

We've welcome any follow-up comments questions or criticism.

When you post the same question at multiple pages at our website you double or triple our work and slow our ability to give a prompt, safe, reliable, useful answer. Please keep that in mind. Your questions are, of course, always welcomed, but asking the same thing in multiple places doesn't help either of us.

On 2020-12-14 by Robert Recher

How long does it take for an answer to a question? I have been sitting here waiting like an idiot for seconds now. I left the page before hoping I could return and see if there was an answer, but could not even find the question, much less an answer.

I have already posed this question twice, this is the third time. I am unable to find the original questions or possible answers.
I have a mechanical room with two large furnaces and one water heater.

The two furnaces do not have powered exhaust, but the water heater does. May these three appliances vent into the same chimney?

On 2020-12-12 - by (mod) -

Possibly, Tom; I can't be as smart as you, on-site.

Usually a clogged coil shows up as very reduced hot water flow rate at the hot water faucet rather than as first-hot, then-cold water in seconds after starting to run hot.

I'd be looking for a blob of crud, maybe mineral scale, that's moving about and clogging the coil (as you suggest) or the tempering or mixing valve, or anywhere else in the hot water piping.

On 2020-12-12b by Tom

Boiler temp is 178

thank you for the response the boiler temp is between 20 and 25 psi. It looks like the watts 70a mixing valve is working I’ve moved back and forth and I feel the difference in the temp on the pipes. I have valves on the cold and hot outlets on the coil,

I connected a hose and ran the water to see if it stayed hot but it went to warm and then cold. I’m just wondering if the coil is clogged on the outside causing the coil not to stay hot enough for the cold water entering on demand. Also I remember the boiler turning whenever hot was in use. Thank you

On 2020-12-12 - by (mod) - water not hot enough

Tom:

About water not being hot enough ever:

It the problem were the failure of the tankless coil to absorb heat that might explain water that was not hot enough but it may not so easily explain water that is warm or hot for just a second or two then cold.

- Your Aquastat settings are reasonable though not what I prefer. See AQUASTAT HI LO DIFF SETTINGS https://inspectapedia.com/heat/Aquastat_Settings.php

- what does the boiler gauge show as boiler temperature?

- check for or replace the tempering or mixing valve or anti-scald valve at the tankless coil outlet (you have one there, right?)

About hot water coming out of cold faucets:

It is common, depending on the routing of your water supply piping, for the water that is at rest inside cold water pipes to absorb heat when those pipes are located close to a heat source such as a home heating boiler;

When cold water is turned on, as soon as that bolus of warmed water reaches the tap the user feels "hot" water coming out of the cold tap. As she continues to run the cold water that pre-warmed water is consumed and colder water entering the building piping system is delivered to the fixture.

On 2020-12-12 by Tom S

Hi I have a peerless wbv-4 oil fired boiler with a hot water coil. The hot water starts warm then cold after a few seconds, I flushed out the coil and cleared out a lot of gunk.

The water flows freely after cleaning and still no hot water, I tested the hot water coming out straight from the coil through the fitting and it started out hot turning cold. When water isn’t in use hot water comes out of the cold tap then turning cold in all fixtures. Aquastat setting lo 155 hi 180 diff 25, aquastat has small digital screen with no error codes.

Everything was working fine until turning off boiler and cutting off water supply for installation of a delta multi choice valve rough in for bathtub fixture. I turned of all zones for heating and ran hot water boiler never kicked in on demand. Boiler was at 178 degrees. What can it be ? I’m thinking the coil is full of build up from the outside blocking fins on tubing. Any help appreciated

On 2020-12-05 - by (mod) - How far from a window must a chimney be

Kevin

Please see

https://inspectapedia.com/home_inspection/Clearance_Distances.php

CHIMNEY CLEARANCE DISTANCES

On 2020-12-05 by Kevinp.kowal@att.net

How far from a window must a chimney be when measured parallel to the horizon

On 2020-12-01 - by (mod) -

Check gas pressure, flow, piping length and diameter

And venting and safety controls

On 2020-12-01 by Richard Rowe

i have a subutban rv furnace that wont stay lit.it new right out of the box and its doing the same thing old one was.lights and then goes out 3 times then lockout.reset and it does it again.ive decided it has to be a gas problem.im thinking i have a partailly clogged line.

would that make my wc vary and cause my sensor to shut of gas valve?

On 2020-11-25 - by (mod) - where do I post a question?

KC

There's no law at InspectApedia about right or wrong place to post, though if we use the on page search box we can often find the article on the topic or our question: that's a good place to post, but ultimately I might move a discussion to a page where it fits better, so as to invite more-helpful comments.

A search for "hot water expansion tanks" finds several articles including

HOT WATER EXPANSION TANKS

That includes a section titled "Water Heater Thermal Expansion Tank Location"

and where in a section titled "Water Heater Expansion Tank Manuals & Resources" we provide a list of water heater expansion tank installation manuals, each of which will include the manufacturer's suggestions for where such tanks should be installed.

Please find your question and our discussion now in a reader Q&A section near the end

of HOT WATER EXPANSION TANKS

On 2020-11-25 by KC Massachusetts

I might have posted this in a wrong other place as a comment under Expansion Tanks, sa discussion of someone else's question.
2nd hopefully right place here ...
Question:

A) Topic:
Location point to install Thermal Expansion Tank (ET)

B) Question:

1) Must ET go in/on the potable cold supply BRANCH for the DHW-tank or can it go before that branch, such as on the main house incoming supply trunk before other branches? (In the later case, it seems it would act as a "Whole House cold ET" which I've never seen.)

2) Does the boiler-to-tank heat-exchanger loop need an expansion tank too?

C) Details:

C.1) Job:

Installing ExpTank (ET) to protect DHW tank (70 gal), as part of the bigger job of replacing DHW tank with failed heat exhanger coil. ET=4.5 gal. There is an ET already at boiler hot out to house heat main line, after which is a branch over to DHW tank heat exchange coil.

C.2) System detail:

Single family cape 1850 sq ft, 4 bed 2 bath, oil heat boiler, hydronic baseboards, indirect fired DHW tank, closed system because of Pressure Reduction Valve near main street meter, 70 gal with priority call, set to 125°F, main supply metered from street (100psi), Pressure Reduce Valve after main meter, set to 40psi.

3 branches off main cold supply from street:

1) cold to all house cold faucets (main supply direct to, 40psi);

2a) boiler cold refill branch has dedicated flow check valve also PReduceV set to 12psi and PReliefV at boiler set to 30psi;

2b) boiler to tank heat exchanger has flow direct valve, return from exchanger to boiler has Taco circulator to pull water back for reheat;

3) DHW hot water tank cold potable supply without dedicated check valve (PReduceV is near main supply meter), without branch PReduceV, or expansion tank, has dedicated PReliefV at tank

Whew!

On 2020-11-21 - by (mod) - circulator stuck in the "on" position

David:

Check the circulator itself: or simply turn off its power;

If hot water continues to circulate through that zone (feel the pipes) then it's probably circulating by gravity, telling us that a check valve at the boiler is either improperly set or has failed.

See CHECK VALVES, HEATING SYSTEM

On 2020-11-21 by David

Can a circulator get Stuck on ?

On 2020-11-21 by David

Disconnect thermostat wire. Still get heat in that room.

On 2020-11-04 2 - by (mod) - lining up oil tank lines for connection

A pair of 45 elbows can work but if the alignment error is small I'd move the tank or the pipe

On 2020-11-03 by James Feldner

The fuel fill line between the out side and the stub out of the fuel oil tank are not lined up properly. A piece of rubber was used to make the connection. I there something that could be installed instead of the rubber hose to connect the two pipes

On 2020-10-19 - by (mod) - unnecessary natural gas pressure regulator effects

It should not cause a pressure problem if the pressure settings are correct for the application

On 2020-10-19 by Jim c

Can adding a ng regulator just before my garage heater if its not needed cause a problem



On 2020-10-0 - by (mod) - use a dresser coupling on an oil line

Dirk:

A dresser coupling cost between about $60 an $200 - for the part alone, and is used to join iron pipe in lieu of cutting threads or using a standard threaded coupling (about $10. for a 2" threaded iron pipe coupling).

If your device was leaking it certainly needed to be repaired.

If the service tech tried tightening the bolts and that didn't work and if replacing an O-ring or gasket didn't work then replacing the fitting would have been in order.

The dresser coupling shown below is from Trupply.com


On 2020-10-05 by dirk@katonahgroup.com

My oil heating service, with whom I have a maintenance agreement, told me they had to remove the dresser coupling between the tank fill line and the tank in my basement to replace it with a "black" union and charge me $250.00 for that job.

This dresser coupling was installed with the tank about 10 years ago and looks perfect with no sign of leakage. They say that they cannot make further fuel deliveries until that coupling is replaced. Can you confirm this necessary? I am in NY state.

On 2020-10-05 by (mod) - home inspector didn't test the heating system now we find it's in bad shape

Chris:

My sympathy. In my OPINION a good home inspector would not report "nothing" about a heating system even if conditions did not permit it to be turned on.

Most home inspection standards permit the inspector to exclude items for various reasons: safety, access, and local conditions. For example we don't try running an A/C system in freezing weather because it can be damaged. Similarly we might not switch a heat pump in "heat mode" if it were presently in cooling mode.

However a decent home inspector would not use the "I couldn't run it" tag as justification to report absolutely nothing about the condition of the equipment. Visual inspection is essential for just about everything within the scope of a home inspection and visual inspection alone can often find and report very important findings.

Furthermore, simply saying "I didn't turn on the heat" would in my OPINION be an inadequate inspection as that does not tell the customer the significance or implications of omitting the heating system.

In sum, IF the inspector simply took a short cut to speed the job and please the realtor then he didn't do a great job for you and may not have met the minimum standards required for his or her work - depending on where you live.

So a salient question is "Were there substantive (expensive - or dangerous) defects or conditions that an inspector COULD have seen if she or he had simply directed his or her eye to the equipment involved?" If not - that is if the problems with your heater were not at all visible and could not have been even hinted at by visual inspection, then the inspector has not erred in that regard.

However it's also the case that any inspector who is working for her or his client will tell the client "Hey, this is an expensive piece of equipment and its condition also involves risk: safety of building occupants (fire, CO poisoning, etc) as well as a risk of building damage (leaks, frozen then burst pipes, etc) so even though I couldn't inspect it you should get it inspected, tested, serviced by a heating service tech before closing the sale and if you can't do that, assume you could face a costly surprise and have those steps done before using the system.

On 2020-10-05 by Chris

My question relates to the inspection of house being purchased. We used a home inspector to inspect house prior to purchase. The section of his report I detailing inspection of heating system (kerosene furnace) stated that he did not turn the heat on due to the outside temperature.

On that day it was 82° outside and 68° indoors. We purchase house and right from the start they were problems evident with the heating system. We called HVAC specialist and were informed that The current furnace was actually dangerous to use, given its current state.

Is there any legitimacy to the home inspectors report stating that the outside temperature that day was too high in order to turn the heat on? Otherwise, he noted that the furnace “appeared functional”. Thank you

On 2020-09-10 by (mod) - what is the age of a mueller climatrol boiler furnace

Interesting question, Gerard, I'll see what I can find.

I estimate that your furnace is 40+ years old. Post a photo of the data tag as that will help us research it.

Also give me the age of the building where the heater is installed and the country and city.

Thanks

The history of Climatrol goes way back to 1857.

As we cite under our Muller Climatrol entry at MANUALS & PARTS GUIDES - HVAC Brands J-O

Mueller Climatrol became Climatrol Div. of Worthington Air Conditioning in 1964, purchased by Fedders.

An EXAMPLE data tag for a Muller Climatrol heater is shown just below.

data tag for a Muller Climatrol heater (C) InspectApedia.com DF

On 2020-09-09 by gerard noronha

what is the age of a mueller climatrol boiler furnace with ser. no. 1LX

On 2020-04-05 by (mod) - safety defects at heater venting and chimney

Shared flue, no data on whether or not there are proper dampers or draft hoods, change in flue diameter, possible constriction, sloppy amateur work, signs of prior condensate leaks, and venting a dryer into a heating flue chimney.

All of these mean that the vent system is unsafe, improper, should be found to violate local heating and plumbing codes, and most important, risk fatal carbon monoxide leaks that can kill building occupants.

A competent onsite inspection and repair are needed including removing the dryer vent from the shared chimney flue and proper venting of the gas fired heating equipment.

Meanwhile do not go to sleep nor even occupy the building unless there are properly-located, tested, working CO detectors (carbon monoxide) and smoke and fire detectors.

On 2020-04-05 by Al

What about this HVAC setup is wrong? I'm not an expert but it looks wrong and dangerous and I would like to talk to my landlord about it.

On 2020-03-31 - by (mod) -

Tim

As it will be helpful to other readers, and as its publication may prompt other readers to offer a helpful suggestion, I will include a redacted (to respect your privacy) version of your question and our detailed reply now found in our article at

CONDENSING BOILER/FURNACE CONDENSATE DRAIN


On 2020-03-31 - by (mod) - where is the leak in my oil filter at my heating system?

Matt:

About finding the oil leak point at your heating system's oil filter, please

see details (and your question re-posted) at OIL FILTER LEAK POINTS

Your question and my reply are at the bottom of that page

On 2020-03-31 by Matt cope

Good afternoon, firstly, i hope you and your friends and family are well?

Attached is a filter we have which I'm hoping you can see clearly. I recently had an engineer come out to fix the boiler which wasnt firing up.

One thing he did was check the filters for me and since then I have a little leak. Do I need to simply tighten the nut up? Replace the o rings or just get the engineer out again? Thank you in advance

[Annotations on photo are by InspectApedia.com - Ed.] [Click to enlarge any image]

On 2020-03-31 - by (mod) -

Tim

You ask why, in a condensing or high efficiency gas furnace, we see condensate dripping back into the heater.

As it will be helpful to other readers, and as its publication may prompt other readers to offer a helpful suggestion, I include a redacted (to respect your privacy) version of your question and our answer in our article at

CONDENSING BOILER/FURNACE CONDENSATE DRAIN inspectapedia.com/heat/Condensing-Boiler-Furnace-Condensate-Drain.php

near the bottom of that article.

If you viewed that page recently, to see the updated page you may need to clear your browser cache, and it may take up to 24 hours for the updated page to propagate through the internet to your server.

Often our published version of the question will include expanded discussion and additional references beyond this original email reply

On 2020-03-31 12:00:07.767811 by Tim

So, I’m unable to get an answer from anyone on this. Why does moisture sometimes come from the combustion air intake line on furnace & cause rust & corrosion.

It could be improper pitch, not enough return air, exterior terminations are to close to home...but nobody has a definitive answer. Any thoughts?

[Annotations on photo are by InspectApedia.com - Ed.] [Click to enlarge any image]

On 2020-03-29 - by (mod) - is it ok to change the installation point of the fan limit controller?

John

It's really important that the fan limit control sensor is in the very and exact spot specified and designed by the manufacturer. The danger in moving the sensor / control is that if it doesn't sense plenum temperature as designed the system is unsafe, potentially overheating, cracking the heat exchanger, and killing the building occupants with carbon monoxide.

On 2020-03-29 by John

Have an old horizontal furnace that works fine but concerned that the fan/limit control could fail. The existing control's sensors are crammed in the side in that the plenums are vertical. Any reason why I couldn't mount a new control on top of the furnace and have the sensors run between the mid plenum plates.

On 2020-03-22 - by (mod) -

Keith

You can replace the Entire Primary Control With a Honeywell R7274U - see details

at RESET SWITCH, CAD CELL RELAY

On 2020-03-22 vby Keith

Sorry wayne eagle one model meg-1

I need a cad relay dont know part number a becket heater at least 30 to 35 years old sies anyone know which one I would need

On 2020-03-08 - by (mod) - ok to substitute a B- for an A- oil burner nozzle?

Anon

Take a look at the oil burner selection nozzle guidance given

at OIL BURNER NOZZLE GUIDE https://inspectapedia.com/heat/Oil-Burner-Nozzle-Selection-Guide.php

I don't know what oil burner nozzle brand you're using, but A- nozzles are typically a hollow cone while B is solid. Either nozzle might "work" in the same oil burner but usually we stick with the manufacturer's recommendation as a starting point as the nozzle pattern is matched to the combustion chamber and burner properties.

I add that if you're keeping the firing rate 0.75 gph and the spray angle (80 degrees) un-changed, then it's reasonable to experiment with the two patterns.

Watch out: if you're not trained and equipped with the full set of measuring and test tools you cannot, by eye alone, know that your substitute oil burner nozzle is working properly in your oil burner and heater set-up. An expert needs to measure draft, temperature, smoke, and CO or CO2.

On 2020-03-06 by Anonymous

I have a wbv-04 I have the nozzle at .75 80A can I put a .75 80B in side

On 2020-03-02 - by (mod) - When the furnace starts there is a slight oil smell from the register

Jane

If this is oil heat see OIL BURNER NOISE SMOKE ODORS - home

Watch out: the concern is that the furnace heat exchanger may be cracked or rusted and leaking unsafe combustion products into the home.

On 2020-03-02 by Jane Whitmore

When the furnace starts there is a slight oil smell from the register but no smell near the furnace.

On 2020-02-15 - by (mod) - Can a combination coal and oil furnace run off the same thermostat

Terry

Yes but ... the devil is in the details - in this case, of wiring. One would need to understand how the "furnace" swaps between its two fuels and how its operation is controlled when running on each of those fuels.

Presumably wiring the TT ahead of the two controllers or in parallel to each of them can work.

After all the TT is nothing but a simple "on-off" switch.

On 2020-02-15 by Terry McLoud

Can a combination coal and oil furnace run off the same thermostat

On 2020-01-14 by (mod) -

Copper, galvanized iron

On 2020-01-14 by ALBERT FINLEY

WHAT TYPE OF PIPES CAN I USE ON A ONE PIPE STEAM SYSTEM, COPPER, CAST IRON, OR PVC?

On 2020-01-08 by (mod) - what the normal sequence of a gas fire hot water boiler

John you've made my day by asking about the operating sequence of a gas heating boiler, as I spent a lot of time on just that, writing up

BOILER OPERATING STEPS

That sequence uses an oil burner as an example but a gas fired heating boiler would use all of the same steps except that it's a gas valve that opens and gas burner that ignites (by pilot or by electronic ignition) rather than oil burner igniting by a transformer electrode.

On 2020-01-07 by John K

Can you tell me what the normal sequence of a gas fire hot water boiler is - The thermostat calls for heat what part gets the signal first and so on what is the flow

On 2020-01-06 by (mod) - free diagnosis for the heater?

Gee, Johnny, I can't say; if you're not able to pay for inspection and repair, and assuming this is an electric heater, you might ask a local electrician if she can work for a reduced fee.

On 2020-01-06 by johnny

where can I get a free diagnosis for the heater?

On 2020-01-03 by (mod) -

Electric?

Shut it off at the electrical panel to be safe.

On 2020-01-03 by Bill O'Malley

I have a stairwell heater that won't shut off and I can't find a name of the maker any ehere on it.

On 2019-12-02 by (mod) -

Stacy

That sounds terrible. We can't tell of course from such a brief message whether the flooding was because the leaks that you repaired or unsuccessful efforts or does this have something to do with your heating system.

If you see water spilling at the relief valve on the heating system the situation is unsafe and you need some professional help to find the cause had to fix it promptly

On 2019-12-01 by Stacy Stackhouse

I fixed some leaks went to restart system and my house flooded out .

On 2019-11-27 by Tom M

I'm having a new chimney liner installed and I have a 3 year old boiler that was just serviced and had a combustion test.

The chimney installers told me I will need a new combustion test after they install the liner due to change in draft. My furnace company can't get out for about 9 days after the liner. Is that an issue, or should it be tested and adjusted sooner? Thanks

On 2019-11-25 by (mod) -

Sorry, no I don't. It may have been made before the modern SEER ratings were applied.

However you could certainly have your heating service tech actually measure the system's efficiency: its CO2 level, temperature, etc.

But doing that before the system has been cleaned and tuned is unfair as the cleaned-tuned-efficiency will always be significantly better.

On 2019-11-22 by TIM

I am replacing a 35 year old Mueller Climatrol 240,000 BTU input furnace. mdl #17512400210. Do you know what the efficiency rating of the old furnace is.
Thanks
Tim

On 2019-11-22 by Bruce

Why does a single person office on a rural property with 1 sink and 1 shower and 1 toilet require a 3000l min septic tank ? ----the logic of this requirement does not have a sound engineering practise.

On 2019-11-16 by (mod) -

Cindy I'm sorry but I'm at a loss - I don't know what 1.4 is referring to.

On 2019-11-15 by Cindy

I had my Goodman heater inspected this week. The repairman said my heater motor reading is 1.4. He showed me a picture of the maximum recommended reading which is also 1.4.

He's suggesting I replace it now at a cost of $480. The heater is running fine. Do I need to get it replaced now or should I wait for the system to stop heating my house as well?

On 2019-11-07 by (mod) -

JW

Handling the breakaway jumper or pull-out tab on a new fan limit control switch:


I don't know which brand and model limit switch you've got but removing a tab may be for use with low voltage - that breakaway or pullout is explained in the article I'll cite below.

Hop over to FAN LIMIT SWITCH INSTALLATION & WIRING where you'll find installation instructions and manuals for fan limit controls.

On 2019-11-05 by JW

Thanks -- The wiring seems to check out OK. Went ahead and replaced the Honeywell L4064B limit switch with a new one. This switch has a break-away jumper in it. How do I determine if I need the jumper or not (already discarded the old switch) ? I have three wires running to the limit switch. Thanks again .

 

On 2017-12-31 by (mod) - list of flash codes for heat pumps

Maria

The exact diagnostic meaning of the red light on your heat pump depends on the brand and model.

A typical example of the red light code might be that compressor unit icing has been detected.

But the exact meaning of the red light on your heat pump depends often on the number of flashes in each interval - decoded by a table in the installation and operation manual for your unit.

See MANUALS & PARTS GUIDES - HVAC

if you don't have the manual for your heat pump.

You can try turning power off to your heat pump for five or 10-15 minutes, then turning it back on. This MIGHT re-set an error condition. But if the error code persists you need to call your service tech for repair.

Watch out: do not just flip power off and immediately back on at a heat pump.

That causes the pump to try to re-start against (possibly) high head pressure, and it can damage the unit. (Some systems will automagically lock out against an immediate re-start to avoid this problem).

Also if outdoor temperatures are very low it is likely that your heat pump controls are seeking to run the backup or emergency heat. That may not be working in your home.

A review of some heat pump service guides gives us some *general* red light flash code meanings but beware that the flashing red light error codes for your brand and model heat pumps are likely to vary from these:

Heat Pump Trouble Light Flash Codes

Two flashes: excessive or high pressure detected

Three flashes: discharge temperature at the compressor is abnormally high

Four flashes: discharge temperature at the compressor is abnormally low

Five flashes: compressor defrost cycle fault - too frequent

Six flashes: varies among products, possibly blocked air filter, condenser fan not running, excessive refrigerant charge

Seven flashes: ambient temperature sensor not working

Eight flashes: liquid line sensor problem detected

On 2017-12-31 by Maria Zanfrisco

Beckett model 7505 heat pump with oil backup. Cold air blowing out, opened access panel to heatpump and red light flashing so we pressed on it and kicked on but it turns back to red flashing every once in a while

On 2017-10-22 by (mod) -

David

Presuming by pump you refer to the circulator in a hot water heating system, if the circulator is actually continuing to run when it should not I would check for a bad pump control relay or shorted thermostat wires.

See HEAT WON'T TURN OFF https://inspectapedia.com/heat/Heat_Stays_On.php for diagnostic and repair procedures.

On 2017-10-22 by David Bramwell

my thermostat does not switch my pump off?

Question: how do I identify the wall heater in my apartment?

I was wondering if I could find out what type of wall heater is in my apartment I only have the Cat no FC257, Watts 2509/1875, Volts 240.

I can't make out anything else and the landlord had someone glue knobs on the heaters so I can not take the covers off I need to know if they have ever been recalled.- Kim Amundsen 11/5/11

Reply:

Kim: If you like, send us some sharp photos of the heater and its data tags and I may be able to advise. Use the CONTACT link for direct email.

Question: Books & resources for heating boiler troubleshooting

Is there a book on troubleshooting residential heating boilers? Kevin 1/5/2012

Reply:

Sure Kevin. In addition to the free "Diagnose ..." boiler troubleshooting & repair articles we provide (see links at page top & page bottom ARTICLE INDEX ) see books listed below at the end of this article. Also we welcome specific questions and are glad to research if needed.

Question: My heating unit is running on emergency heat for the whole winter - my electric bill is too big

my problem is my heating unit have been running on emergency heat for the hole winter period and my light bill is outregious.

I've had repair man come to my house and they tell me that my unit has to be run on that emergency heat because i live in a town house. What should i do im going to go broke just because my light bill is like $300 dollars. HELP!!! - Hector Toledo 2/24/2012

Reply:

Hector the statement that you need to run your heater on "emergency heat" because you live in a townhouse makes no sense to me at all.

Perhaps the heating service tech just didn't give a clear explanation of what's wrong. I infer from your question that your heat is supposed to be provided by a heat pump that also provides air conditioning in hot weather.

Emergency "backup" heat in such systems is there to handle cases of unusually cold outdoor temperatures - below a certain temperature the heat pump may be unable to provide enough heat for the building and the backup heat kicks in. But in all other conditions you should not be running on "emergency" or "backup" heat.

So if I've got the right picture, something is wrong with the heating system. See if you can get some details and let us know what you are told.

Question: hot water heat radiator exploded

Moved to EXPLODING RADIATOR

Question: energy saving device using capacitor bank does not function efficiently for high wattage equipment

(Dec 13, 2012) qhia said:

in my reading energy saving device using capacitor bank does not function efficiently for high wattage equipment (heating)..i need to know why so confuse

Reply:

Qhia
sorry we are confused too - and don't understand the question.

These articles may help you identify and diagnose the trouble:

BACKUP HEAT for HEAT PUMPS

ELECTRIC HEAT BASEBOARD DIAGNOSE REPAIR

Question: Mobile home furnace not working

(Dec 14, 2012) Sean Newcomer said:

I have a brand new thermo pride furnace for my moble home it ran fine for two months the furnace started cylcling, it would burn then the fan would come on after a couple minutes the call to burn would shut off, then the fan would shut off a few mins later, upon fan going off the burner would cycle for heat again and the fan would come on heat would stop and so on.

But the heat keeps climbing it doesn't stop so i got ahold of the installer he told me it was the thermostat, i replaced it and still does the same its under warranty but i can't afford to pay a serve man 200.00 to come to tell me the problem. is it the burner control or is it the computer board can it be reset and how

Reply:

Sean,

IF the warm air output from a supply register is blowing right onto the room wall thermostat, then "the thermostat is the problem" could be a correct statement.

Otherwise I suspect a bad fan limit switch or improper installation of that control. For example, if the limit switch is mis-adjusted or if its sensor spring is binding, the system won't work properly.

Watch out:  a fan limit switch that is bent, damaged, mis-handled, even mis-adjusted, can be dangerous, risking damage to the heating equipment or even a fire.

See MOBILE HOME HEATING SYSTEMS

Question: fire hazard from damaged fire bricks in Arco Boiler

(Dec 15, 2012) Isaac said:

Need help with my Arco - ideal water boiler
I have Arco - ideal water boiler tow days ago was shut down I went to see what is going on I found out the thermal bricks was collapse inside the boiler which is result of blocking the fire opening, I need help and advice how to fix it if it easy to fix or who to call so I can get it fix or it is okay to run it with out thermal bricks

Reply:

Isaac

Watch out: Turn off, and Do not run the boiler. a Heatinbg boiler with a collapsed combustion chamber is unsafe.

Call your heating service company. They can replace, rebuild, or reline the fire box.

Question: short cycling heating system intermittent noise diagnosis

5/15/2014 Susan said:

Furnace - Carrier Weathermaker 8000 all works fine.Tech came out for a checkup

. I declined the AIC special and pressure switch (both bad he stated) bc all furnace works fine.

All still works just fine, but every 5-7 minutes now, 24 hrs. a day, an intermittent. mechanical sound for about 5 seconds clicks on 2-3x in that period and then stops.

What is that sound? Is it happening bc I did not get the AIC and pressure switch?

Hope to find out exactly what is the sound?

Sorry for the limited info. just want to find out and stop it. Trying to get the company to come back out and put in to parts and hopefully, identify the sound and correct it. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Reply:

Susan,

With no data about your system other than your message I can't diagnose the issue accurately, but there seems to be a contradiction between saying the system works fine but it is not working normally and is cycling every 5-7 minutes.

Anderson Instrument Corporation (AIC) produces a line of HVACR pressure control switches and gauges.

If the pressure switch on your system is faulty that *could* explain the symptom you describe. Below I give contact information for AIC who produces the control that you ask about.

Other reports of the Carrier Weathermaker 8000 units (you don't give your model but this note is for the Carrier Weathermaker 8000 Model 58WAV090-LC) that are short cycling may display an error code No. 34 or No. 14 or both, indicating a problem with the furnace's ignition system. The system may eventually shut down on safety with Code #34.

Ignition problems are often traced to a mis-located flame sensor, a failed thermocouple, or even dirt (or in a few cases I've seen spider nests) on the sensor assembly.

Watch out: if you see sooting conditions on gas fired equipment the unit is unsafe and should be shut down while you wait for professional service. Sooting gas fired appliances may be producing dangerous, even fatal levels of carbon monoxide.

Other problems can cause a furnace to shut down under control of its temperature limit switch, such as a dirty air filter or dirt-blocked cooling coil in a combination heating/cooling unit. Obstruction of air flow through the heating plenum or het exchanger can cause the system to heat up and shut down before the thermostat is satisfied.

You can detect this condition on furnaces or on systems that provide both heating and cooling and that short cycle in heating mode on units that use a fan limit switch by noting that the switch indicator dial is rotating to the HI LIMIT temperature shutoff during system operation.

See FAN LIMIT SWITCH &

 FAN LIMIT SWITCH TROUBLESHOOTING.

If you do not have the installation and operation manual for your furnace, you can also look for error code signals and their decoding information on data tags right on your Weathermaker 8000 unit.

Question: expansion tank pressure problems

(Sept 8, 2014) Don F. said:

This may or not be a problem. Please tell me what you think. Thanks for your help.

Expansion tank set at 14psi same as the 14psi auto feeder. Cold fill when boiler is at 80F shows 14psi on the pressure gauge.

Pressure verified with separate test gauge. Start boiler and pressure increases to 20 psi at 180F.

When boiler cools back down to 80F overnight the pressure does not return to 14psi. It stays at 19/20psi. I've dropped pressure to 0psi and cold filling several times and it is always the same outcome.

Reply:

Don

I suspect that the pressure gauge itself may be sticking. Check that first (tap gently to see if it will move, or replace it).

Alternatively, you could have leaks INTO the boiler if a tankless coil is installed. \

Reader follow-up:

(Sept 8, 2014) Anonymous said:

Well, the separate pressure gauge when when connected verifies the installed pressure/temp gauge as accurate. If the indirect water heater has a coil leak... Why does the pressure stop at 20? Until I can understand that I can't move forward. For now the 20psi is holding very steady.

Reply:

OK so we like the gauge.

Your question is on point; the stopping pressure would depend on the house side water pressure.

Try this:

Shut OFF completely the boiler water feed - the valve should be ahead of the boiler and pressure reducer / water feeder.

With the boiler OFF and cold and sitting over night, if the pressure doesn't change then we would suspect the water feeder.

Reader follow-up:

Been there done that in 2 different ways... Way 1--- Boiler cold 80F and pressure reduced to 0psi.

Then turn on boiler street valve which feeds auto reducer feeder.

Pressure now goes to 14psi and stays there. So many hours latter (like 18 hours) I turn on the boiler and as it gets hotter the pressure gradually increases from 14psi to 20 psi at 180F.

Then when all is quiet and the boiler is idle overnight for 12 or more hours the boiler is around 80F the pressure is still 19/20psi.

I can repeat this procedure with the street feed valve turned off after filling from the pressure reducer fill valve. But the outcome is the same. Street pressure here is 70psi.

Reply:

Don

If even sitting idle the boiler is still hot (e.g. if it's keeping some heat in the boiler for a tankless coil) then it pressure would stay up in the range you describe.

But if you turned off power to the boiler over night, we can be sure the boiler ought to be "cold" or at least room tempreature, the next morning. And we'd expect to see lower pressures, though possibly slightly above the 12 psi cold if cold water from the street side were really cold on original insertion.

Reader follow-up:

Only heating indirect heater this time of year. I just took some pressure off. Brought it back down to 12psi. I had to let 2 quarts of water before the pressure reduced to 12. I'm thinking coil leak again :(

Reply:

Yeah. If you shut off water supply INTO the indirect-fired water heater tank AND drain pressure off of the tank - if you can stand having no hot water for a time - you can repeat these tests to confirm that water source leaking into the boiler. :-{

Question: radiant heat not working

(Sept 11, 2014) Bill Mills said:

radiant hot water base board don't work in one room and does in all the other rooms

Reply:

Look for a clogged or broken radiant heat line. You might first check the control valves at the start and end of that radiant tubing leak; then use a simple infra red scanner or a thermographic camera to map the heating tubing - that'll tell you if it's leaking.

Question: clean the burners on a early 1900's hot water boiler heating system?

(Sept 28, 2014) theresa said:

how do I clean the burners on a early 1900's hot water boiler heating system?

(Oct 22, 2014) John Slaughter said:

Need to identify a DayNight furnace age serial number is KDGHG 30314.

Question: tracking down calls for heat

(Nov 4, 2014) Mike said:

Dan I was wondering about something. in a commercial building and all the thermostats off and the outdoor temp is 70F I keep getting a call for heat, since it's a large size boiler the cost for this running on warm days is a lot, it ends up with gas bills of about $2400 a month.

The thermostats are all updated to electronic T-stats, but if I could somehow lower the temp on which it will cut off or just not have it almost always running would be good..

OR at least find out what keeps asking for heat would be a big help!

I know at least one thing says Heat & Pump lockout and another one is a Honeywell push button with it changes to Setpoint A and Setpoint B and it shows the temps.. I forgot what it's called.

Also I can't figure out but a 3-way valve comes off the boiler and it used to be connected to a zone valve, why would they disconnect a zone valve from the 3-way? I can't figure that one out.

Reply:

Mike: check the aquastat controller. It may be a unit that's wired to keep heat in the boiler on for a tankless coil that you're not using.

See AQUASTAT CONTROLS

Question: wire color hookup information

(Dec 1, 2014) Ed McGinnis said:
need to know what color wire to hook up to which color wire

Reply:

Ed

I'm sorry but I don't know what you're hooking up to what. Thermostat wire colour codes are at

inspectapedia.com/heat/Thermostat-Wire-Color-Codes.php

Question: frost on the outside heating unit

(Dec 3, 2014) Dwayne said:
Whats wrong when my heating and air unit outside is covered with frost?

Reply:

Dwane

if you are talking about a heat pump and the outdoor compressor condenser unit, a heater coil may have failed or there could be a refrigerant metering issue.

Sounds like a heat pump that is either low on refrigerant or has lost its defrost cycle or base heater.

Question: loud drip heard in ceiling - a gas furnace is above

(Dec 4, 2014) David said:
We have what sounds like a loud drip in the ceiling above our closet.

The gas furnace is located directly above this closet. It's been "dripping" for a few days now but there is NO discoloration of the ceiling in the closet, indicating standing water which I had expected, but am pleased about.

Any ideas what it is and if it needs to be fixed? (The house is only about 10 years old, we've lived here about 6 years, and we've never noticed the dripping sound before.) I'd appreciate any input/ideas. THANKS!

Reply:

David,

I would investigate and find and fix the drip cause before you run into a costly mold contamination issue.

Start with a visual inspection of the heating equipment, condensate handling, safe venting, and then as needed test cuts from the ceiling side to look for mold or to see the extent of wetting.

Send along some photos and I can comment further. Email is at CONTACT US.

Question: Heating zones controlled by a Belimo LM24-T actuator

(Dec 31, 2014) Jim said:
I have a zoned heating system in my home. The zones are controlled by a Belimo LM24-T actuator. When one of the zones closes the actuator moves to the closed position but wants to keep on moving. As a result it makes a clicking noise over and over and over again. So I disconnected the wires from the actuator and manually opened the zone.

My question is can these actuators be adjusted. Second question are the actuators hard to replace?

Question: steam pipe leak repair

3 Jan 2015 Greg said:
I have a small leak from one of the steam pipes in my basement. What is the most cost effective way to repair.

4>Reply:

Greg

Since steam heat in residential buildings is operating at low pressure - less than 1 psi typically, you may be able to make a temporary fix using a clamp-around pipe seal sold by plumbing suppliers.

Watch out: messing with corroded steam supply or condensate return piping, even just poking at it, can disclose a bigger problem with more extensive corrosion than first met the eye.

I would not touch the system unless it's at a time when repair parts and materials and expert help can be obtained quickly enough that having to shut down the heating system won't be a catastrophe.

On 2017-02-25 by Test mobile df

Mobile comment test

On 2017-02-18 by D. Walker

Our fan has been running for 12+ hours. We tried turning the heat off and it continues to run.

On 2017-01-09 by Steve S

Hi. I have a hydronic heating gas boiler. In addition to the combination aquastat, there is a high limit manual reset thermostat by Honeywell.

The manual reset thermostat keeps tripping at 205 degrees which is what it's set at. On the combination aquastat, the high limit temperature is set for 190 degrees.

The low limit is set for 170. It seems that after the burner goes off, the temperature still increases. Any idea if the setting is wrong, if I have a bad aquastat, or what else might be causing it to trip.

One thing to note, there are a few other boilers in this room that are set to very similar settings and they do not trip.

I appreciate all your help.

On 2017-01-04 by MikeHamilton

I have an electric coleman 3400s furnace. In the beginning it will run fine and get the trailer to temp but shortly after the elements will light and the blower will stay off

put a new sinkurnizing relay on it and thought that fixed it. Lastnight I woke to the smell of the elements cooking and no blower. What should I try next?

On 2016-12-27 - by (mod) -

I would check for a blocked steam vent.

On 2016-12-26 by Crystal

I have natural gas steam heat radiators and baseboard radiators. There is only one thermostat to control all rooms. Every radiator is working except for the baseboard in the kitchen. Not sure why that is the only one not getting hot??

On 2016-11-25 by James

So set my system to heat but didn't hit run. Came home 24 hrs later it was set to 62 but was 87 omg so I turned off n it didn't seem to want to turn off it could of been doing cool down mode or whatever so I shut the breaker off my house is f n hot wtf

On 2016-11-21 by tom

On a boiler that produces hot water for heat and domestic hot water can I isolate the boiler to Just Produce hot water and not circulate hot water or heat

On 2016-11-02 by Manny

I have an old Minneapolis honeywell mercury aqua stat that controls my circulator for my heating system need to know correct replacement part running out of time I live in NY and it's getting cold help please

On 2016-10-15 by Rachel

I have a Peerless Series 61 gas boiler from 1993 in the home I just purchased. It ran out of water so the LWCO shut it down.

I added water back into the unit so the sight glass is 3/4 full. The pilot light is on. The thermostat is on. The boiler, however, is not starting up. I don't see a reset switch on the LWCO or anywhere else. Any ideas on why it won't fire up? Thanks!!


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