How to evaluate horizontal cracks or splits in wood beams or logs such as in a log home.
This article defines, illustrates, and explains the cause and significance of horizontal splits or "checking" in wooden beams, or in logs and beams used in log home structures.
Here we provide a guide to diagnosing and evaluating the impact of horizontal splits or checking found in wooden beams or in logs of log homes.
Checking or splits in wood beams, or in solid logs used to construct both antique and modern log houses worry homeowners even though usually they do not present a structural problem.
But checks in structural wood beams as well as checks and splits in logs used to construct log homes can result in water or air leaks into the building.
Our page top photo shows the author's precision probing device exploring checking (also called splitting or cracking) of a structural wood beam in a pre-1900 home that had been moved to a new concrete block foundation.
As solid wood beams and logs cure, shrinkage produces not only checking (large cracks that are normal and are not necessarily a problem) but also an actual reduction in log or beam diameter.
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This article describes splits that are found in horizontal wooden beams in post and beam homes or barns, other horizontal or diagonal load-bearing beams in buildings.
We also discuss cracks or splits in horizontal logs forming the walls of log homes.
[Click to enlarge any image] Photo above: horizontal checking cracks in a log cross-tie beam in a cabin at Elk Lake in Northern Michigan.
Is the wooden structural component we are discussing a Beam (shown above and the subject of this page) or is it a Post?
If it's horizontal, it's a beam (at the top of the photo above), while if it's in a vertical position, it's a post or a column (in the center of the photo above).
If it's diagonal, it's a brace or part of a truss.
For help evaluating cracks, checks, or splits found in vertical wood posts and logs, see
CRACKS CHECKS or SPLITS IN VERTICAL POSTS
While extreme loading can cause a wood beam (or more rarely a post) to split and would indicate a sign of impending disastrous collapse, usually the splits or cracks found in wooden posts and beams are due to shrinkage as wood dries, occur along the grain, do not extend through the full width or diameter of the beam, and do not raise a structural concern unless the crack happens to be at a location that compromises a structural connector such as a bolt or nail.
While extreme loading can cause a wood beam to split and would indicate a sign of impending disastrous collapse, usually the splits or cracks found in wooden posts and beams are due to shrinkage as wood dries, occur along the grain, and do not raise a structural concern.
An example is seen in the checked beams of our ceiling beam photo above and another example shows up in the cracks or splits in the logs of a log home discussed below.
When a wooden beam is failing from rot, insect damage, or excessive loading, it may also split but you'll see that the split is very different, showing visible breakage of wood fibers and sagging in the span of the beam.
Above: there is a bit of sag and some checking in the wood beam above the yellow arrow in our photo.
A closer look will be needed to see if this beam is actually failing. In wood-framed structures, leaks, rot, and insect damage play important roles in the failure of wooden structural members.
In older structures such as the post and beam framed buildings shown above and below, failures at connections can lead to structural collapse even if the rest of the wood framing member is intact.
Above: this wooden beam is failing and collapsing from insect damage and possibly rot.
Watch out: This is serious damage that risks structural collapse, and we'd also suggest a more-extensive inspection for other insect or rot damage to this structure.
[Click to enlarge any image]
Log homes will shrink considerably in wall height as the logs dry during the first one or two years after construction. This is so even in factory cut "dry" logs which may have absorbed moisture in transit or on site, and it is even more true if the logs used in construction were "air dried" or were used while still "green".
The more moisture that was present in logs at the time of construction of a log home, the greater the amount of shrinkage that will occur in overall wall height, and the larger and more extensive will be the checking cracks that occur in log walls.
Usually the crack in the wood beam or solid log radiates from the outer surface of the log towards the log center; it is not common for a log or beam split or crack (or checking) caused by the drying process to pass beyond the center of a log or beam. However more severe splits and cracks can occur in a wood structural member, even passing through its full diameter, due to structural loading or damage.
This series of articles provides information on the inspection and diagnosis of damage to new and older log homes and includes description of log house and log siding insulation values and alternatives, and also a description of the characteristics of slab-sided log homes as well as all other types of log home construction.
We include illustrations of log structures from several very different areas and climates in both the United States, Norway, New Zealand, the U.K. and other countries.
Log checking, long horizontal splits in the log surfaces, will appear on both inside and outside surfaces of log walls and may vary considerably in width (hairline to 1/2") and length (a few inches to several feet). (Photo courtesy Arlene Puentes.)
Checks in logs (or other large timbers) are rarely a structural concern, but they may become a leak or rot problem if the cracks abut a vertical opening such as at a window or door or at upwards-facing cracks on the exterior of a rounded log home wall.
Bottom line: Log checking checks or splits are only a cosmetic concern unless they are taking in water and therefore risking leaks into the building interior or causing rot or inviting insect damage, as we discuss below in more detail.
Checks and splits in the upper radius of log walls on the wall exterior are of more concern than checks and splits in the lower half of these walls.
Checks even in the lower radius of log walls - that is just below the center or outward-most face of the curved log face may also be a problem if they occur in a position and shape to send water running down the log wall into the log interior.
Rain or melting snow sending water into these checks can cause these problems:
So as our photo (above left) shows, even a structurally harmless shrinkage crack or check in a log wall can lead to an interior leak if the window was not properly constructed.
This particular log check reached to the center of the log and bypassed the caulk that the builder had placed around the window frame on the log wall exterior.
Checks in the lower radius of the curved outer face of a log wall and checks in weather-protected location are unlikely to cause damage and are only cosmetic.
Normal log splits or checking are found in nearly all logs. The absence of sagging in master log joists that span the full width of this northern Michigan cabin and that have been in place since 1935 testify that log checking is not a structural worry. More photos and details of this cabin are
Still there are steps you can take to reduce log checking or splits and construction details that can reduce the chances that log checks or splits will trap water, leak, invite rot or insect damage.
Our photo, courtesy of reader Chris, illustrates a wide diagonal split in a horizontal log beam. We see that some angle brackets were added in an repair effort. We suspect that those brackets are inadequate if this beam is actually carrying the load of a building floor above as this is a significant log split, not simply cosmetic cracking.
Look closely at this photo. [Click to enlarge any image]
Watch out: We also do not see any fasteners that connect the beam to the post under its end at the left side of the photo. Further detailed inspection would be appropriate not just at this beam and post.
If we find that structural connections are missing then a question is raised about the expertise of the builder and thus about what other mistakes may have been made.
Now let's take a look at a split in a wood beam that's might be harmless - or not, where there is a more-subtle question.
Below, posted by reader John we see typical horizontal shrinkage cracks in a large wooden beam that has been set on an angle, producing loading at its upper end.
These look like harmless shrinkage cracks, but we raised the structural connection question again: where and what are the structural connections here?
Note that there is a "Vi" cut into the end of this beam and it looks from the photo as if only the upper few inches of the beam (or "rafter"?) are pushing against a building wall while the lower portion of that Vi cut seems to be spaced away from the abutting wall or roof. And there are no visible connectors.
This "Beam" is actually part of a custom-built roof truss, as we see in the reader's follow-up post:
It's possible that loading from above combined with missing or inadequate structural connections is contributing to cracking in this angled beam.
The drying checking crack in the white-painted horizontal beam shown above is harmless and normal for large wooden beams.
Below is a photograph of checking cracks in posts that raise concern that the structural connection, lag bolts through a steel T-strap, may be compromised. Photo courtesy of InspectApedia reader Marks.
On 2021-08-05 by Eileen - is this cracked beam something we can just "keep an eye-on"?
The picture shows a crack (pic taken from bottom) in the CENTER of a load bearing beam running the full length of our living room in our log home.
The crack continues about four inches up the other side of the beam.
This happened under the weight of a heavy snowfall, and the noise it made when it cracked was LOUD.
My husband wants to just "keep an eye on it" but I am scared to death that my roof will collapse!
He has said he could fix it by placing steel on each side & bolt through it, but I am worried that will not be enough!
On 2021-08-05 by inspectapedia.com.moderator (mod) - evidence of a cracked rafter or beam that is a failure, not a checking crack
@Eileen,
It's not likely that the whole roof is about to come crashing down, but I agree with you that this crack, which I am GUESSING is in a rafter (supporting your roof) from what you wrote, is more than cosmetic cracking- the rafter is broken nearly half-way through.
In my annotated copy of your photo the yellow arrows point to the crack you observed and the orange arrow to what I think is a knot (bad luck!) that invites further breakage through about half of the total depth or long-cross-section of this rafter; (You don't give its dimensions).
So you've lost maybe half the strength of one rafter.
Research as well as hundreds if not thousands of years of experience with wood beams supporting structures tells us that often the presence of a knot in a beam can contribute to a breaking failure at that point, especially when the knot is large and near the center of a beam's span.
It would make sense to either replace it or to add reinforcement; a simple through-bolted steel flitch plate might suffice, though having no actual information about your structure I can't really say with confidence just what's needed.
A better and simple repair is to add a sister beam alongside the existing one. That avoids having to do any demolition.
Without that repair, under a load of heavy wet snow you might indeed see further sagging and roof damage. or even a collapse.
On 2023-07-06 by Ace - Clarifying chances of failure in that broken beam or rafter: bending moment, shear strength, deflection
"In my annotated copy of your photo the yellow arrows point to the crack you observed and the orange arrow to what I think is a knot (bad luck!) that invites further breakage through about half of the total depth or long-cross-section of this rafter; (You don't give its dimensions).
So you've lost maybe half the strength of one rafter."
In shear it is half the strength,
In bending it is (depth*1/2)^2*width/6 or simply 1/2^2=1/4, given all other values are unchanged.
In deflection it is (depth*1/2)^3*width/12 or 1/2^3=1/8. As such, it is preferentially going to flex at that point with 8 times the "flexibility", and the moment capacity at that point is going to be one quarter of what it had once been.
There will be a sharp inflection point there under load and failure at 1/4 normal maximum loading.
On 2023-07-06by InspectApedia Publisher (mod)
@Ace,
Wow, that's fantastic. I acknowledge that I was speaking "loosely" when I said that the cracked beam had lost about half it's strength - and hope I made that clear.
An engineering answer is far more interesting, in particular, that the 8x more preferential flex at the cracked point and that the moment capacity is 1/4 of the original wood member.
That analysis says that a break or failure of this framing member seems likely.
For other readers I'd add:
So why hasn't the roof already collapsed?
1. Live as well as dead loads on and of the roof structure, including framing, decking, roof covering, and any snow or heavy roofers stomping about up there is spread across multiple components of the roof, so usually a failure of or at just one member doesn't usually lead to a quick catastrophic collapse.
2. Watch out: Repair is needed: when we see such an extensive break in a structural member it's red flag that repair is needed promptly lest a combination of events (heavy wet snow, for example) lead to just what we fear: a sudden collapse.
Ace concludes that "There will be a sharp inflection point there under load and failure at 1/4 normal maximum loading."
That's engineering talk for "it's going to bend to the point of risking breaking, perhaps suddenly (that's how I read "sharp") when the roof is loaded to only one fourth of its normal design load".
A "Sharp inflection point" is one at which there is a risk of sudden catastrophic failure, often because of accumulated forces or loads vs. the load carrying capacity of the member. The graphic illustration of a sharp inflection point is from Schrock 2020 cited below. Schrock discusses snow/water accumulation (not specifically on roofs) in his MS thesis.
What's that? Well an asphalt shingle roof is typically designed to support 15 pounds/sq.ft. of "dead load" - that's the weight of the roof assembly itself.
The live load (snow, wet leaves, my overweight brother-in-law) adds weight to the roof over the course of its life through the seasons.
A residential roof is typically designed to carry an additional live load of 20 pounds per square foot or 20 psf.
So the total load the roof is supposed to carry per square foot of its surface might be 45 psf.
Ace is telling us that at just 1/4 of that or about 11 psf this roof support is ready to fail. (Correct me if I've misunderstood, Ace).
Take a look at our layperson article: ROOF BENDING, SAGGING, COLLAPSE
and for actual roof collapse cases it's worth a look at this article: TRUSSES, FLOOR & ROOF
where we show what can happen in a cascading failure as one framing support member fails. (photo below)
Thanks again Ace for a really helpful comment. If you want to be identified/linked-to use our page top or bottom CONTACT link to send me a note.
For other readers, the "moment capacity" cited by Ace can be defined as
The maximum bending moment that can be resisted by an element before it fails in bending. The "design moment capacity" is the maximum moment carrying capacity for the beam or rafter that is considered safe for design purposes. This is what an engineer or architect is going to specify.
The reaction that is induced in a structural element such as a beam or rafter when an external force or "moment" is applied to that element, causing the element to bend.
Bending moment is thus a force (in our case the weight of my brother-in-law standing on the roof right over that cracked beam or rafter) that causes the beam or rafter to bend.
Bending moment is measured as force (downwards in our roof case) x distance.
Why do we care about distance? The bending moment increases as the point at which the bending force is applied is moved further from where the beam or rafter is restrained.
That view is reflected in the common carpenter's wisdom that a crack in the center of a beam or rafter is scarier than one near one end. It also explains why notching the underside of a beam, joist, or rafter is safer when made near the end of that member than in its middle. (Not that you should be notching anyway).
Example: Here's a typical framing code requirement:
Notches in the top or bottom of joists shall not exceed 1/6 of the depth of the joist and shall not be located in the middle third of the span.
Our buddy Steve Bliss over at our sister site Building Advisor has a nice page on this:
Guide to Notching and Boring Joists at buildingadvisor.com/notching-and-boring-joists/
On 2020-10-13 by (mod) - iron bands may be sufficient repair for severe splits in beam at connections (below)
It's ok for there to be a checking crack along the length of the beam as long as there is not loss of material leaving just a fragment of the beam holding even its own weight.
From my limited view, if this were mine I'd have fabricated a couple or so iron bands to give some peace of mind.
On 2020-10-12 by Chris
Thanks so much for the helpful insight--and the very quick reply. The ceiling area above the beam is not accessible, so there's no additional weight to worry about--really just the weight of the beam itself.
A full 5 feet on the far end of the beam is not affected by the crack, which stops just past its midpoint. But the crack--though no more than about 1/2-inch in gap at its widest--does run horizontally through most of the width of the beam.
In fact, it has produced a hairline crack visible on the opposite side of the beam; fortunately, this crack has not worsened since we've owned the house.
(I didn't even notice it until I got up there and ran my hand along the side of the beam.)
I've attached a picture of this opposite side of the beam [above]; the hairline crack runs along where I've placed that horizontal bit of blue tape. Would this increase your opinion of the severity of the crack? In general, it looks to me like the wood has just split and pulled down slightly on the side of the first photograph.
If U-bands still seem a reasonable method to address this, I can add that there are a few inches above the crack on both sides of the beam to permit securing a few bands along its length.
Do you see any value to also filling the crack with structural epoxy, or is that unnecessary? Thanks again. Chris.
On 2020-10-12 by (mod) - unusually severe ceiling beam checking risks breakage / failure - this beam needs repair/reinforcement
Chris
That's a rare case, I think, of a beam checking or drying split that has gone to extremes.
You note that this is a "non-structural" ceiling beam spanning 13 ft.
Checking cracks do not normally run all the way through a log or beam - which is a reason that they're not normally a structural concern unless the crack appears at a location that compromises a structural connector.
On this beam I can't see enough to be confident of its safety, though I note your report on lack of change. In particular I can't see from this photo just how much of the body of the beam remains intact along its span.
Also, though you say this is not structural, you note it's supporting decking above; is that an accessible area that means there could be more weight than just that of the decking (a ceiling ?)
I share your concern that if the beam were to crack and bean someone that could certainly cause injury.
Typically, at the least you'd add a couple (or perhaps more depending on length & severity of this split) flat u-shaped iron bands that prevent further splitting or collapse.
And if on inspection you were to find that a significant portion of the wood body of the beam is actually split through so that the remaining support is half or less of the original, the repair (or replacement) may be more urgent.
Unfortunately this sort of small but important failure is often such a small job that hiring a qualified structural engineer to make an assessment and propose a solution would cost more than the cost of a new beam.
On 2020-10-12 by Chris
Hello. This crack [photo above] is in a 12" x 4" non-structural ceiling beam spanning the 13-foot width of a bedroom.
The beam supports only the pine-slat decking that rests on it. The crack appears to be along what seems a natural fault (for lack of a better term). It is less than 1/2-inch in thickness/gap and runs almost entirely on one side of the beam--that is, not all the way through the beam--except where it comes to a point on the bottom of the beam (visible in the photo).
From where the crack starts (again, visible in the photo) on the high end of the beam, it runs upward on the beam itself, eventually diminishing in width until concluding at the top edge of the beam at about its half-way point. The blue painter's tape in the photo just marks one-foot increments in spacing.
I'll add that the house was built in 1978, is in the desert southwest, and the crack has been there (and not worsened) since we moved in ten years ago. Since the beam is in a bedroom, though, we're concerned that the weight of the beam might at some point produce further cracking or, in a worse-case scenario, breakage above someone sleeping.
Should the crack be addressed in any way (such as using epoxy-grouted dowels, steel straps/ties, etc.) to prevent this? I'd be grateful for any insight you can offer. Thanks very much.
Moved to WOOD BEAM LOG VIGA CRACK REPAIR METHODS
Photo: viga log ends after attaching them to the structural viga ends via epoxied double-ended screw connectors. These Viga repairs are described in the US NPS article cited just below.
...
Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.
"In my annotated copy of your photo the yellow arrows point to the crack you observed and the orange arrow to what I think is a knot (bad luck!) that invites further breakage through about half of the total depth or long-cross-section of this rafter; (You don't give its dimensions).
So you've lost maybe half the strength of one rafter."
In shear it is half the strength, in bending it is (depth*1/2)^2*width/6 or simply 1/2^2=1/4, given all other values are unchanged. In deflection it is (depth*1/2)^3*width/12 or 1/2^3=1/8. As such, it is preferentially going to flex at that point with 8 times the "flexibility", and the moment capacity at that point is going to be one quarter of what it had once been. There will be a sharp inflection point there under load and failure at 1/4 normal maximum loading.
On 2023-07-06 by InspectApedia Publisher (mod)
@Ace,
Thank you for that concise, clear and very helpful commentary.
I have copied it and added to it, now in the article above on this page at Case 5: Serious near-vertical crack in horizontal beam indicates imminent failure
We welcome any comments, criticism or content suggestion you may have any time, on any of our articles.
Thanks again
DF
On 2023-06-12 by BK - evaluate bow in cracked split deck post
My new 6" x6" deck post is cracking and I believe that's fine, but one of them has a small bow in it, will the post be ok and should I be worried about it.Thanks
On 2023-06-12 by InspectApedia DF (mod) - 6" x6" deck post is cracking and has a small bow in it
@BK,
Please see your entire question and our reply now moved to
CRACKS CHECKS or SPLITS IN VERTICAL POSTS
Trying to figure out if this is an example of checking or a structural problem with the beam. The crack runs diagonal from the center to the edge over about 3 ft or so. You can see the joist hangars are only ~2 ft away.
I believe it might be a check as it looks to be running parallel to the grain (which looks to be running diagonal). I'm in the process of adding drywall ceiling and only just noticed these as I'm trying to track down a squeak from that area.
There's a similar crack on the top edge causing the squeak. when someone walks above it. House is 1975 build. I added the joist hangars as the 2x8s looked as if they pulled away in the past and I wanted peace of mind.
Does this look like something that should be sistered before I close it up or am I over thinking it?
A wall was also erected ~5ft to the left of this joist. Obviously it isn't intended to be load bearing but it significantly reduced joist deflections in the dining room upstairs. - On 2023-04-19 by Joe -
Reply by InspectApedia Publisher - multiple diagonal cracks in one floor joist
@Joe,
In your photo I think we're seeing multiple diagonal cracks in one floor joist - in the foreground of the photo.
IF there are no other questionable joists
and
IF
there is any measurable sagging of that joist or if there is a point load above that joist (like a partition wall on the floor above, parallel to and over the joist)
(You say there is no nearby point loading, and if that a wall 5 ft. away is at right angles to the joist- that ought not be a factor in the cracking you see)
But before closing the ceiling, now is the cheap and easy time to act: you might want to sister the joist to avoid any future worry
Please also take a look at
LOOSE NOISY FLOOR REPAIR
for some specific suggestions as you track down and fix a floor squeak.
Let me know what you think, find, do.Followup by Joe
@InspectApedia Publisher,
"IF there are no other questionable joists
and
IF
there is any measurable sagging of that joist or if there is a point load above that joist (like a partition wall on the floor above, parallel to and over the joist"
Did you intend to say this is likely not a major structural concern or the opposite?
There aren't any point loads above this particular joist or the one just beyond it. Speaking of that joist, I snapped another picture showing the same condition just in the opposite direction. There's a total of 16 floor joists in the room, 8 going to each side of a central beam and these are the only two of concern but they are right next to each other.
Beyond sistering before closing up, does this seem like something more sinister may be going on or just an old house that dried and settled?
This thought seems to trail off. I grabbed another pictureReply by InspectApedia Publisher - sistering a beam can help with sagging
@Joe,
It doesn't LOOK Like a major structural concern -
I'm saying THEN there's no sagging (and we've already said we think there's no unusual loading above) THEN it's 1 joist with some splits, no sags, no signs of movement - but deserving a sister (glued and screwed) in place as it's sure easier and cheaper to do that now while the ceiling is open.
Now that you point out there are 2, I'd sister them both. - On 2023-04-19Followup by Joe
@InspectApedia Publisher,
I'll be sure to sister with glue and screws going forward!
Educationally, is this more akin to a "check" crack in the joist as it appears to follow the grain or more load related? It just seems odd to me that these two or so joists are the only one with any real cracking.These 8 joists are supporting a cantilevered deck that is sistered on the other end but we're talking the other end of a 12 foot span. They don't look fresh, so I guess the possibility is they were cracked from the time they were first in place too?
Thanks for the help here. While not glad to discover, I'm glad to hear they don't look to be serious. Sistering is an easy enough fix to me.Reply by InspectApedia Publisher
@Joe,
Yes I agree that it's possible that those are old cracks although we see those more in beams than in joists.
This is a not too painful case in which being on the safe side is easy and timely.
I'd like to see a sharp close up photo of some of those cracks and please post a photo or two of your sistering procedure too; that will help other readers.
On 2023-02-23 by Leo - Cracks in 1920s NYC renovation ceiling beams
Hi,
I just bought a 1920s apartment in new york city. We've begun renovations and upon stripping the ceiling, we discovered cracks in the support beams on the ceiling. The apartment is on the top floor of the building. Attached is a picture of the most severe crack. 3 additional beams are cracked. Do you think these cracks are a serious concern? Thanks very much for your help.
On 2023-02-23 by InspectApedia Editor
@Leo,
Although the photo is a bit dark and unclear, in my opinion, that beam is not a cause for concern as you can read about above on this page.That is to say if what you are seeing are horizontal checking cracks in a wood beam as described on this page, those are not normally a
On 2023-02-10 by Lisa - cracks in cabin beams: dangerous?
Hello. We bought a cabin and did not see these cracks before. We have significant concerns since we are new to wood beams and not sure if this is dangerous. What should we do? Thank you
On 2023-02-10 by InspectApedia Publisher
@Lisa,
If you compare those to the normal beam checking cracks described above on this page, I expect that you will feel more comfortable. Do take a look.On 2023-02-10 by Lisa
@InspectApedia Publisher, yes, thank you for your response. They don’t look as bad as others but wondering if there is something we should do to protect further splitting?
We have the temp about the same daily. And house has been there for more than ten years. Nothing above accept walking in bedroom. Wonder why cracks so noticeable now.On 2023-02-10 by InspectApedia Editor - Reduction in indoor relative humidity can increase checking cracks
@Lisa,
Take a look at this article
REPAIR CRACKS & SPLITS IN WOOD BEAMS OR POSTS
where you'll see our discussion on this topic. Please note that most wood beam cracks are normal wood shrinkage cracks and no repair is needed.Reduction in indoor relative humidity can increase checking cracks. I would ignore them UNLESS you see a split or crack that runs right through a structural connector such as a bolt. Those might need reinforcement.
If it were a more serious crack in a beam, this article discusses next steps. Please do take a look.
Hello,
I'm a little bit concerned about the load bearing beam encircled in red in the attached image. There are several longitudinal cracks.
The part I'm most concerned about is the part marked in blue. The depth of the crack there is ± 38% of the width of the beam. On the opposite side (not shown on the picture) a very light crack is visible width a limited depth (± 2%) at approximately the same height as the deeper crack of ± 38%.
1) Should I be worried about the longitudinal cracks (red)? What if they would become larger and 'connect' so one big longitudinal crack would form?
2) Should I be worried about the big crack (blue)? Do you expect if to become deeper and and what point should I become concernced?
Thank you in advance for looking into this.
On 2023-01-18 by InspectApedia Publisher - longitudinal cracks are normal wood beam checking cracks usually
@John,
Those longitudinal cracks are normal wood beam checking cracks that occur especially in heavy timbers as they dry out. I've not found any expert sources nor any structural nor civil engineer who says those are a structural concern,
EXCEPT - in my OPINION - for the uncommon case that I've seen a few times in which the shrinkage or checking crack happens, by bad luck, to occur exactly where someone is trying to fasten a structural connector bolt. In that case, which is not in your photo, some additional connector or connector plate might be needed.
Same for the blue crack, with the exception noted just above.But
Watch out: where and what are the structural connections here?
Thank you for the question and great photo.On 2023-01-24 by John
@InspectApedia Publisher,
Thank you for the feedback. I assume that there is a connection between the vertical wall and the wooden beam at the part encircled in blue in the previous picture. I’ve added another more detailed picture. Do I understand it correctly that this could be a concern?On 2023-01-24 by InspectApedia Publisher
@John,
The connection of that large beam to other framing members is not visible it appears to be completely buried in the wall cavity.
If you don't see any signs of separation or movement in the members that is a reasonable place to sto
On 2023-01-06 by Rose G. - sticking windows may indicate post failure or settlement?
Addition built in the 80s I’m guessing - San Diego, CA. The house used to not have a post under the over hang and we placed a post 10 years ago (picture 1), windows used to get stuck when opening and were replaced (picture 2), that corner of the room slopes down a bit, where the over hang is (picture 3)
my concern is the main beam (picture 4,5, & 6).
On 2023-01-06 by InspectApedia Publisher - second floor overhand extension needs adequate support
@Rose G,
Right. But horizontal checking cracks in a beam are not usually a structural concern.
What **WOULD ** be a concern is the adequacy of horizontal beam under that second floor extension supported by what looks like. a single post - in your "Picture 1" - that's worth having a check by a civil or structural engineer who is familiar with residential construction.On 2023-01-06 by Rose G
...
...
On 2023-01-07 by Rose G
@InspectApedia Publisher, thank you for the response.
you think the post should be bigger or placed somewhere else?On 2023-01-07 by InspectApedia Publisher - on site expert needed to give accurate diagnosis
@Rose G,
More posts may be needed as may other materials. We can't know that without knowing how the building is constructed, that's why you need it on site expert. Don't attempt to diagnose this from photos online. Critical information is missing.See my engineering recommendation already given for your beam photo.
On 2022-12-19 by T - short end splits in beams atop a sill - problem?
Does this look concerning at all?
On 2022-12-19 by InspectApedia (Editor)
@T,
Not very, as long as the split is short, just at the end of a 2x resting on a sill, and not compromising the structural connection.
I think you're referring to splits at the ends of joists that rest atop a girder. Look on both sides of the girder for any signs of sagging or movement. I suspect you won't find any;
Perhaps a closer look will show us that the splits occurred during nailing if someone drove a nail too close to the bottom edge of the joist. If you see that post a photo for us.On 2022-12-19 by T
@InspectApedia (Editor), Thanks. I am also referring to the gap between the joists widening out as I follow it from the beginning where they are closer together.
On 2022-12-19 by InspectApedia (Editor) - joists are widening out
@T,
Again we can but guess as we can't see much of your structure: doubled floor joists typically are placed under a partition wall to carry extra load. Best practice would have included diagonal nailing from both sides to tie the two together, or use of structural screws to do the same.Significant movement of those joists, once nailed in place and nailed into from the subfloor above would be unusual, but you can certainly add some structural screws from both sides, 16" o.c. at the center of the joists for peace of mind.
On 2022-10-14 by Mike C - Ireland sweet chestnut post is splitting and not fully on floor plate
The split in this Sweet Chestnut post has gotten slightly bigger in the last year since it was erected. The building is not yet fully closed in. The squared timbers are all Douglas and it's in Ireland.
On 2022-10-20 by InspectApedia (Editor)
@Mike C,
Please see your entire question and our reply now moved to our article onCRACKS CHECKS or SPLITS IN VERTICAL POSTS (live link in Recommended Articles list at the end of this page)
On 2022-10-14 by Simon - horizontal checking cracks in beams of an 1888 house
I live in an old house, was built in 1888. it has been years since i moved in, everything has been fine. but something start to worry me in the basement. please see the picture attached.
the beam has some normal checking all over the place but one session has serious split occurred that was before we moved in. Previous owner has put the cement into the crack to make it look safer. I need an opinion, should i add additional support column under this cracks ?
On 2022-10-15 by InspectApedia-911 (mod)
@Simon,
Usually we think horizontal checking cracks in beams are normal and harmless. But if a crack has opened on a diagonal such that the beam MIGHT be breaking, it's worth at the very least some careful measurement and ongoing observation.
Stretch a horizontal string and take measurements - tell me if the beam is sagging.
Checks in vertical posts aren't a worry as long as a connector isn't compromised.
On 2022-09-21 by Havewhatyouneed6 - horizontal beam is rapidly splitting along it's entirety
This horizontal beam is rapidly splitting along it's entirety. The house was built in 1952 and the landlord has severely neglected it and my requests go ignored. The vertical post, which there is only 3 of to hold up the whole house is severely splitting and the cement foundation has a new huge crack along it's entirety horizontally.
There was severe water damage and mold continues to be an issue. None of this initially disclosed to me. How much danger are my 2 little girls and I in????
On 2022-09-21 by InspectApedia (Editor)
@Havewhatyouneed6,
Inspecting your house through the eye of the needle of your photos (we can only see where you looked - this is a 95% incomplete "inspection") we have marked in red what could be serious structural questions.
You need an onsite expert now.
Let us know what you're told and we may be able to comment further
On 2022-08-28 by Domen - bad split in rafter "beam" end - this broken roof ridge rafter should be replaced
I have 1 year old home and in attic I have found a nasty crack in one rafter on the ridge of the roof. Is this repairable with U-band? Is there some other method or should it be replaced?
On 2022-08-30 by InspectApedia-911 (mod)
@Domen,
Yes IMO that rafter should be replaced - it appears to be broken right through exactly at the point of connection to its sister rafter at the ridge.
While the loads are normally "down" at the ridge such that the upper ends of those two rafters would be pressed against one another, that looks as if it might be an over-cut mortise and tenon joint with very deep notches - if that's the case that may have contributed to the split.
On 2022-08-22 by David - evaluate cracks of the garage support beam
Hi, thanks for your insightful points!, We are concerned about the cracks of the garage support beam, it crack all over joists. Should I do any repair?
On 2022-08-22 by InspectApedia-911 (mod)
@David,
From what is a very limited view of what looks like a large wood beam left to right in your photo I see typical drying or checking cracks.If you're not seeing sagging of the beam itself nor other signs of building movement then there's probably no action that's necessary.
On 2022-08-02 by Yvonne - where to check splits in old beams to see if damage is serious
Hi, thanks for very insightful points!
We are concerned about the cracks of the high roof beams in our 3rd floor apartment (part of old Italian 3 storey terrace house 100+ years old, recently refurbished). Grateful for your views.
On 2022-08-02 by InspectApedia-911 (mod) - check framing details at beams & purlins in 100 year old Italian Home
@Yvonne,
The checking in some of those roof beams (purlins running to the gable end of the home) looks normal and harmless.
I think I see an insect-damaged cross-beam beneath which a sister beam may have been added.
Fine but
Check for actual structural connections at the points that I've circled in yellow.There's no obvious movement and the roof looks newer than some of the structure, but we can't see any details of how those heavy beams and purlins are connected.
On 2022-08-04 by Yvonne
Thanks so much. There does not seem to be specific connector. I took a closer pic
On 2022-08-04 by InspectApedia-911 (mod) - where are the connectors: king-post to beam?
@Yvonne,
It would be surprising if there were no structural connectors such as nails or lag bolts to connect those various beams to one another.
On 2022-08-01 by Colleen - logs seem to be twisting and splitting in this log home
Hello, we are concerned about logs that seem to be twisting. Will this continue? Will it collapse at some point? Thank you for your time.
On 2022-08-01 by InspectApedia-911 (mod) - twisting logs in log home: cause, evaluation, cure?
@Colleen,
I would not expect those twisting logs to lead to a building collapse, and some log twisting is normal as logs dry out, particularly if the building was constructed with logs that were not fully dry (nor kiln dried).
Building with green or non-dried logs requires some special measures to allow for those changes, such as choice of spline or joining materials between logs, both at the horizontal log joints and at the end butt joints.
Where is this home (country, city)?
When was it built?
Do you know anything about the log supplier or kit supplier if the home was from a kit? (Company name, kit or product name).
Check a bit further for
- visual evidence of failed splines between logs (flashlight and careful peeping into the biggest gaps)
- drafts (feel on a windy day)
- water leaks (look for water stains between logs and at butt joints and around windows and doors.
On 2022-07-11 by Nick - home inspector said this old beam connection was a concern
Hello, any insight is greatly appreciated, my wife and I just had our home inspection and this beam was a concern the inspector had. Its the main support beam sitting on top of a very old rusted metal jack/support
Our realtor is having us neet with the building inspector who technically approved it before a year ago since the house was rebuilt/redone but hadnt been sold. The home is 120 years old and this i believe is the original beam.
Again any insight on what i'm looking at so I can be more educated when we meet up is greatly appreciated.
On 2022-07-11 by InspectApedia-911 (mod) - Post top repair needed at 100 y.o. wood girder lap joint
@Anonymous,
That's a great photo of the wooden joint in the top of a post but of course we don't have any context information and no nothing about the house.One of the things our home inspector should have reported to you is where there is movement in the structure and if so is it because of repair that's needed in this location.
That's a very old lap joint in a main beam. I can't tell from your photo whether the wood is rotted or insect to damaged or not.Perhaps if you see the wood crushing that would tell you that the wood is damaged and needs to be replaced or sistered. The proper repair would involve a concrete filter steel lally column concrete pier.
Don't count on the building inspector telling you that a post it was improved earlier is now a legal, and don't count on legality in deciding whether or not building repairs are needed.There are plenty of things that need to be repaired regardless of whether a Building Code Compliance inspector is establishing that they are against the wall.
Fortunately replacing one post or even a post in a beam isn't a significant portion of the value of the home.
...
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