| InspectAPedia® |
InspectAPedia
| |
Free Encyclopedia of Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, Repair | Ask a Question or Search InspectAPedia |
|
InspectAPedia ® Home HEATING SYSTEMS AFUE DEFINITION, RATINGS AGE of CHIMNEYS & FIREPLACES AGE of AIR CONDITIONERS & HEAT PUMPS AGE of HEATERS, BOILERS, FURNACES AIR CONDITIONING & HEAT PUMP SYSTEMS AIR FILTERS for HVAC SYSTEMS AIR HANDLER / BLOWER UNITS AIRBOUND HEAT SYSTEM REPAIRS ANODES & DIP TUBES on WATER HEATERS ANTIFREEZE for BOILERS ANTI SCALD VALVES APPLIANCE EFFICIENCY RATINGS ASBESTOS IDENTIFICATION IN buildings BACKDRAFTING HEATING EQUIPMENT BACKFLOW PREVENTER VALVE, HEATING SYS BACKFLOW PREVENTER, HEATER WATER FEEDER BACKUP HEAT for HEAT PUMPS BANGING HEATING PIPES RADIATORS BAROMETRIC DAMPERS BASEBOARD HEAT BIOGAS PRODUCTION & USE BLEVE EXPLOSIONS BLOWER DOORS & AIR INFILTRATION BLOWER FAN CONTINUOUS OPERATION BLOWER FAN OPERATION & TESTING BLUE vs YELLOW COMBUSTION FLAMES BLUERAY Recall BOILERS, HEATING BOILER CHEMICAL TREATMENTS BOILER COMPONENTS & PARTS BOILER CONTROLS & SWITCHES BOILER LEAKS CORROSION STAINS BOILER LEAKS, HOW TO LOCATE BOILER NOISE SMOKE ODORS BOILER OPERATING PROBLEMS BOILER OPERATION DETAILS BOILER PRESSURE & TEMPERATURE SETTINGS BOOKSTORE - InspectAPedia BTU USAGE MONITORS BUILDING SAFETY HAZARDS GUIDE CAPACITORS for HARD STARTING MOTORS CARBON DIOXIDE - CO2 CARBON MONOXIDE - CO CHEMICAL TREATMENTS for BOILERS CHIMNEY INSPECTION DIAGNOSIS REPAIR CHIMNEYS & Flues - Asbestos Transite Pipe CHINESE DRYWALL HAZARDS CIRCULATOR PUMPS & RELAYS COOL OFF HEAT, Thermostat Switch COMBUSTION AIR COMBUSTION AIR for TIGHT buildings COMBUSTION GASES & PARTICLE HAZARDS COMBUSTION PRODUCTS & IAQ COMPLETE COMBUSTION, Stoichiometric CREOSOTE FIRE HAZARDS Curved Brick Chimneys - Sulphation CONDENSING BOILERS/FURNACES CONDENSING BOILERS/FURNACES DAMAGE CONVECTOR HEATERS - HYDRONIC COILS DEFINITION of Heating & Cooling Terms DEFINITIONS of ELECTRICAL TERMS DEFINITIONS: OIL PIPING CONTROLS DEHUMIDIFICATION PROBLEMS DEW POINT CALCULATION for WALLS DEW POINT TABLE - CONDENSATION POINT GUIDE DIAGNOSE & FIX AIR CONDITIONER / HEAT PUMP DIAGNOSE & FIX HEATING PROBLEMS-BOILER DIAGNOSE & FIX HEATING PROBLEMS-FURNACE DIRECT VENTS / SIDE WALL VENTS DIRECTORY of OIL TANK EXPERTS DRAFT HOODS - gas fired DRAFT MEASUREMENT, CHIMNEYS & FLUES DRAFT REGULATORS, DAMPERS, BOOSTERS DUCT SYSTEM & DUCT DEFECTS DUST, HVAC CONTAMINATION STUDY DUST SAMPLING PROCEDURE ELECTRIC HEAT, DIAGNOSIS, REPAIR ELECTRIC MOTOR DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE ELECTRIC MOTOR OVERLOAD RESET SWITCH ELECTRICAL POWER SWITCH FOR HEAT EVAPORATIVE COOLING SYSTEMS FAN, AIR HANDLER BLOWER UNIT FAN AUTO ON Thermostat Switch FAN, COMPRESSOR/CONDENSER UNIT FAN CONVECTOR HEATERS - HYDRONIC COILS FAN LIMIT SWITCH FAN NOISES FILTERS, AIR for HVAC SYSTEMS FILTERS, OIL on HEATING EQUIPMENT FIRE SAFETY CONTROLS FIREPLACES & HEARTHS FLAME COLOR, BLUE vs YELLOW COMBUSTION FLOODED HEATING EQUIPMENT REPAIR FLUE SIZE SPECIFICATIONS FLUE VENT CONNECTORS FREEZE-PROOF A BUILDING FUEL OIL TYPES & CHARACTERISTICS FUEL UNIT, HEATING OIL PUMPS FURNACES, HEATING FURNACE CONTROLS & SWITCHES FURNACE HEAT EXCHANGER LEAKS FURNACE OPERATION DETAILS FURNACE OPERATING TEMPERATURES GALVANIC SCALE & METAL CORROSION GAS BURNER Flame & Noise Defects GAS FIRED WATER HEATERS GAS PIPING, VALVES, CONTROLS GAUGES ON HEATING EQUIPMENT GEOTHERMAL HEATING SYSTEMS HEAT EXCHANGER LEAK TEST HEAT LOSS in BUILDINGS HEAT LOSS DETECTION TOOLS HEAT LOSS INDICATORS HEAT LOSS PREVENTION PRIORITIES HEAT LOSS R U & K VALUE CALCULATION HEAT PUMPS, DIAGNOSIS, REPAIR HEAT TAPES & CABLES on Roofs for Ice Dams HEATING COST FUEL & BTU Cost Table HEATING COST SAVINGS METHODS HEATING LOSS DIAGNOSIS-BOILERS HEATING LOSS DIAGNOSIS-FURNACES HEATING OIL CLOUD WAX GEL POINT HEATING OIL EXPOSURE HAZARDS, LIMITS HEATING OIL - OLD, USEABLE? HEATING OIL PIPING TROUBLES HEATING OIL SHELF LIFE HEATING OIL SLUDGE HEATING OIL TANKS HEATING OIL TYPES & PROPERTIES HEATING OIL USAGE RATE HEATING SMALL LOADS HEATING SYSTEM INSPECT DIAGNOSE REPAIR HEATING SYSTEM NOISES HEATING SYSTEM SERVICE & MAINTENANCE HEATING SYSTEM TYPES HIGH EFFICIENCY BOILERS/FURNACES HOT WATER HEATERS HOT WATER IMPROVEMENT HUMIDITY LEVEL TARGET ICE DAM PREVENTION INSULATION INSPECTION & IMPROVEMENT LOW VOLTAGE BUILDING WIRING LOW VOLTAGE TRANSFORMER TEST LP & Natural Gas Safety Hazards MANUALS & PARTS GUIDES - HVAC METHANE GAS SOURCES MIXING / ANTI-SCALD VALVES MIX VALVE SCALD PROTECTION, Best Practices MOTOR OVERLOAD RESET SWITCH Natural Gas Combustion NO HEAT - BOILER NO HEAT - FURNACE NOISE / SOUND DIAGNOSIS & CURE NOISE AIR CONDITIONER / HEAT PUMP NOISE, DUCT VIBRATION DAMPENERS NOISE, HEATING SYSTEMS NOISE, PLUMBING NOISE, WATER HEATER ODORS & SMELLS DIAGNOSIS & CURE ODORS FROM HEATING SYSTEMS OIL BURNERS OIL BURNER FUEL UNIT OIL BURNER INSPECTION & REPAIR OIL BURNER NOISE SMOKE ODORS OIL BURNER NOZZLE & ELECTRODES OIL BURNERS, RETENTION HEAD OIL BURNER SOOT & PUFFBACKS OIL FILTERS on HEATING EQUIPMENT OIL FILTER MISSING OIL FUEL TYPES & CHARACTERISTICS OIL HEAT FIRE SAFETY CONTROLS OIL LINE CLOGGING FIX OIL LINE QUICK STOP VALVES OIL LINE SAFETY VALVES OIL ODORS, LEAKY OIL TANK PIPING OIL PUMP FUEL UNIT OIL SPILL CLEANUP / PREVENTION OIL TANKS OIL TANK ABANDONING PROCEDURE OIL TANKS, BURIED OIL TANK GAUGES OIL TANK INSPECTION REPORTS OIL TANK LEAKS & SMELLS OIL TANK PIPING & PIPING DEFECTS OIL TANK PRESSURE OIL TANK REGULATIONS OIL TANK REMOVAL COs OIL TANK REMOVAL FINANCIAL AID OIL TANK SAFETY OIL TANK SLUDGE OIL TANK STANDARDS OIL TANK TESTING OIL TANK TESTING COs OIL TANK WATER REMOVAL PLASTIC HEATER VENT PULSE COMBUSTION HEATERS PASCAL CALCULATIONS PRESSURE REDUCING VALVES PRESSURE REGULATOR, WATER PUFFBACKS, OIL BURNER PUMPS, PONY PUMPS RADIANT BARRIERS RADIANT HEAT RADIANT HEAT Floor Mistakes to Avoid RADIANT HEAT TEMPERATURES RADIANT SLAB FLOORING CHOICES RADIANT SLAB TUBING & FLUID CHOICES RADIATORS RELIEF VALVE LEAKS RELIEF VALVES - TP Valves on Boilers RELIEF VALVES - STEAM TP VALVES RELIEF VALVES - Water Heaters RELIEF VALVES - Water Tanks Reset Switch - Heater Primary Control Reset Switch Broken - Quick RepaiR RESET SWITCH - ELECTRIC MOTOR Reset Switch - Stack Relays SAFETY HAZARDS & INSPECTIONS SAFETY HAZARDS GUIDE SAFETY, HEATING INSPECTION SAFETY RECALLS, Chimneys, Vents, Heaters SOLAR HEATING SYSTEM DESIGNS SOOT on OIL FIRED HEATING EQUIPMENT SPILL SWITCHES - Flue Gas Detection SPLIT SYSTEM AIR CONDITIONERS & HEAT PUMPS STACK RELAY SWITCHES STAIN DIAGNOSIS on BUILDING INTERIORS STEAM HEATING SYSTEMS TANKLESS COILS Thermal Expansion Cracking of Brick THERMAL EXPANSION of HOT WATER THERMAL EXPANSION of MATERIALS THERMAL IMAGING, THERMOGRAPHY THERMAL MASS in BUILDINGS THERMAL TRACKING & HEAT LOSS THERMOSTATS, HEATING / COOLING THERMOSTATS, WATER HEATER THERMOSTATIC EXPANSION VALVES Transite Pipe Chimneys & Flues VIDEO GUIDES: Heating System Videos VIDEO GUIDES - InspectAPedia.com WATER HEATERS WATER HEATER SAFETY WATER HEATERS for HOME HEATING USE? WATER HEATER NOISES WATER HEATER SCALE - De-Liming Procedure WATER HEATER SCALE PREVENTION WATER SOFTENERS & CONDITIONERS WINTERIZE A BUILDING WOOD, COAL STOVES & FIREPLACES WOOD STOVE SAFETY ZONE DAMPERS ZONE VALVES More Information |
Here we explain how to choose the best settings for a heating boiler aquastat - the combination control that sets boiler temperature and may also control hot water production via a tankless coil on the heating boiler. We also give advice on how to set the aquastat controls if heating with a woodstove. Green links show where you are. © Copyright 2013 InspectAPedia.com, All Rights Reserved. Author Daniel Friedman. What Settings To Use on a Heating Boiler Aquastat Combination Control
At AQUASTAT CONTROL Functions we explain how aquastats work, defining the functions and dials of the aquastat HI LO and DIFF control along with the reset button often found on these heating boiler controls. This website answers most questions about Heating System Boiler Controls on central heating systems to aid in troubleshooting, inspection, diagnosis, and repairs. The photo above shows a the "HIGH" or "HI" setting on a Honeywell R8124A combination heating control, also called an "aquastat". Contact us to suggest text changes and additions and, if you wish, to receive online listing and credit for that contribution. The internal view of the Honeywell R8182D (left) can be found along with additional details about this control in the Honeywell R8182D,H Combination Protectorelay™ Primary Control and Aquastat® Controller Installation Instructions (link to copy below at References). Following wiring details in the instruction manual, the R8182D,H can replace other aquastat controls such as the Tradeline R8182B, R8182E, R8182F, R8182H, R8182J, or White Rogers 6C92.
Lots of people, even some service technicians are confused about the actual function of combination controls and aquastats like the Honeywell R8182D. Some don't know how to set the "HI", "LO" and "DIFF" dials on a combination control. Rule of Thumb for Setting HI LO DIFF on an AquastatOr more commonly, we were taught to just use a "rule of thumb" which set the "HI" to 180 degF and the "LO" to 160 degF. The DIFF is often set to 10, or is just set randomly. These were "Safe" settings for this control, and it's in with similar settings on millions of heating boilers. But with a little thought, we can adjust these HI LO DIFF settings and thus set the heating aquastat control so as to save a bit more on heating cost, and/or we can set the control to give us a bit more hot water where a tankless coil is installed. Guide to Best Settings for the HI Limit on a Honeywell R8182D Heating Boiler Aquastat & Similar Controls:
Setting the HI: save money on heating costs by running the boiler at a higher temperature Generally a heating boiler is more efficient if we operate it at a higher temperature. The thermal conductivity of heating water inside of finned copper tubing baseboards or through radiator surfaces is exponentially greater at higher temperatures. In other words, hotter water actually transfers heat into the occupied space more efficiently than cooler water. Since this is not lab-grade equipment these settings are not precisely accurate. For this reason we like to set our HI limit at around 200 degF. We let the boiler run through a few heating cycles, watching the temperature and pressure gauges on the boiler to see what temperature we're actually reaching. And we watch the boiler relief valve to be sure we're not causing leakage there. Watch out: Setting the "HI" too high on the aquastat can result in over-temperature in the heating boiler and can result in dumping water and temperature and pressure at the relief valve. If your TP valve was not leaking before and it begins to drip when you set up the HI to 200 F, step the HI back to 195 and try that setting. If your TP valve is leaking at 195 or less it's likely that you need a heating service call - something's probably wrong with the relief valve, with system operating pressures, or with the controls. Guide to Best Settings for the "LO" Limit on a Honeywell R8182D Heating Boiler Aquastat & Similar Controls:
In our photo at left you'll see where the heating service tech left this "LO" limit control after cleaning and tuning the heating boiler. The "LO" is set at least 20 deg F. below the "HI" limit on a combination control. If we set the "LO" any closer top "HI" it is possible that the control, trying to give priority to making domestic hot water for someone in the shower, will simply lock out the circulator pump entirely - the heating circulator will never run. Your heat will work, but slowly, and more expensively, as we explain below at Circulator Lockout. We like to keep our LO set at 20 F below the HI. That keeps the LO temperature operating range as high as possible in the boiler and that in turn gives us the most heat stored in the boiler for making hot water through the tankless coil. Avoiding Circulator Lockout - Set LO 20 or more below HIWhat happens if you "cross the controls" and set "LO" above "HI" or if you set "LO" too close to "HI"? The circulator will not run. Watch out: don't set the LO above or higher than the HI temperature limit. If you make that mistake, you will lock out the circulator pump and your heating system will not work properly. We call this "lock out" - the circulator will be locked out of running on a call for heat. Others call this LO higher than HI "crossed controls". We've inspected homes at which the owner, for decades, observed that the heat in the building was very slow to come up in response to the thermostat. The problem was that the LO was set close to or even above the HI - the circulator pump never ran and hot heating water circulated but only very slowly by convection. We found a home where the owner had set the "HI" to 120 and the "LO" to 180. Luckily for them, because their flow-control valve was either absent or not working, their home would indeed receive heat - but very slowly: their circulator pump had never run. On seeing this setting we asked the owner about it. "Well you know", he said, "we have noticed that the house was always very slow to heat up in winter." Thanks to reader L. Clark for pointing out that we had inconsistent language in this explanation. It's been fixed, and fixed again thanks to reader Damian for suggesting further clarifications. Guide to Setting the "DIFF" (differential) on a Honeywell R8182D heating boiler aquastat & Similar Controls:
Our photo (left) shows the DIFF adjustment on a Honeywell aquastat. This DIFF is set to its lowest value: 10 degF. At the setting shown, if LO were set to 120, when the burner is re-heating the boiler water and water temperature rises to 130 F the burner will turn off and the heating circulator pumps will be allowed to turn on (and they will actually turn on if the room thermostat is calling for heat). If you re-set the DIFF dial up to its maximum of 25 and LO remained at 120 F, then when the burner is re-heating the boiler water and water temperature rises to 145 F the burner will turn off and the heating circulator pumps will be allowed to turn on (and they will actually turn on if the room thermostat is calling for heat). In short, DIFF = 25 should give you hotter boiler temperature and thus more domestic hot water than DIFF = 10. Keep in mind that the LO and DIFF control settings only make sense if the heating boiler has a tankless coil installed to make domestic hot water (for washing and bathing). If your heating system does NOT include a tankless coil, the LO and DIFF are keeping heat in the boiler for a tankless coil that is not present and you could consider either disabling this circuit entirely or setting both LO and DIFF to their lowest settings. Details are at Disabling the LO and DIFF settings Watch out: be sure that a mixing valve or anti-scalding valve is installed to avoid hot water burns as well as to make effective use of this higher boiler temperature. For details about the HI, LO, and DIFF actually work, refer to our text and to the yellow-colored area in our colored version of the HI LO functions explained in detail at AQUASTAT CONTROL Functions in that article's section More about How the HI and LO Limit Controls Function on an Aquastat above. From that article, this quote helps explain what the DIFF control is doing on an aquastat:
It's not hard to understand why heating service techs and homeowners are confused about LO and DIFF settings on a heating boiler, but Honeywell got it right: if we are making hot water with a tankless coil, by locking out the circulator at lower boiler temperatures, the LO and DIFF make sure that heating priority is given to the woman in the shower, not to the building radiators. Guide to Disabling the LO and DIFF settings on a Boiler that Does Not Use a Tankless Coil for Domestic Hot WaterIf a tankless coil is not installed on a boiler where this combination aquastat control is installed, this combination control may still be in use. And that's not always desirable. It depends. In this case, the "LO" has almost no use whatsoever and, if you read the instructions provided by the control manufacturer you'll probably see that the manufacturer calls for the "LO" to be electrically disconnected entirely - it's simply a matter of removing a jumper wire (usually the blue wire pointed-to by our pen, next to the DIFF control. Next to each control wire push-in connector is a small rectangular slot.
Short heating boiler "on" cycles? If you do not disconnect the "LO" limit switch on a combination control on a heating boiler where no tankless coil is installed, during the summer you may wonder why once in a while you hear your heating boiler running. Why is the heating boiler mysteriously turning itself on and off? Now you can solve this mystery. Incidentally another cause of oil burner short-cycling on might be poor contact between the boiler temperature sensing bulb (part of this control) and the well into the boiler water into which the sensor is placed. Or a defective sensor bulb might also cause this problem, in which case the control along with its temperature sensor will need to be replaced. Cast iron boiler leaks? In a few cases, certain cast iron boilers may cool off and begin to leak between their cast iron sections during the summer. This may be a reason to keep the "LO" wired and active on just these heating boilers. Questions and Answers on Setting the Aquastat Control Temperatures and DifferentialQuestion: What's the DIFF? Here is a DIFF twist question for setting the Differential on an Aquastat when Running a WoodstoveI've read all the informative articles about adjusting the aquastat control on a heating boiler, however I have a situation that was not addressed. I've just installed a woodstove in my house. I am running it 24/7 because of the price of oil. I have been turning my boiler off for 23 hours each day and just turning it on to clean dinner dishes and take showers - for one hour. Is this okay? To shut the boiler down for 23 hours each day? The temp in the basement is about 46 degrees. I have 4 zones on my hydronic system and a tankless coil inside the Utica Starfire II oil boiler. 82% efficiency. None of the 4 heating zones need to call for heat when the woodstove is operating. Should I leave the boiler off as I have been the last few weeks? OR, should I turn the boiler on 24/7 and leave the LO set at 120 (lowest point) and set the high at 180-160-140 ? What should the DIFF be set at? We only need hot water about one hour each day - from about 9pm to 10pm. - Damian Reply: Watch out for Freezing Pipes and Boiler LeaksAt similar woodstove-heated homes where a hydronic boiler heating system was installed, we found that the woodstove could keep the room containing the heating thermostat warm enough that the boiler would virtually never run. And everyone felt smug about saving on heating cost. But you're right that there are a few things to worry about besides having to keep the boiler hot for the tankless coil used to produce domestic hot water for washing and bathing. Keeping the Tankless Coil Hot:For readers not familiar with the HI LO and DIFF settings on aquastats, see AQUASTAT CONTROL Functions as well as this article. Your note indicates that you are using a tankless coil for producing domestic hot water. You could leave the diff set quite low, say down to 120, but the problem is likely to be that you won't have much hot water when you do need it, unless your boiler were an older, physically larger or cast iron unit that had plenty of thermal mass. So one option would be to leave the Hi and Lo set at their normal positions, say HI at 180 or even 200, and the LO at least 20 degrees below the HI, at 160 or 180 respectively. The HI will actually be irrelevant in your as you're never calling for heat - just leave it alone so that if you're away from home and the boiler needs to kick in to prevent pipe freezing, the settings will be at their normal position. On modern heating boilers we like to keep the DIFF set to its lowest setting because that turns on the boiler soonest when you are running out of hot water and helps prevent having to get the soap out of your hair using cold water. Our OPINION is that the standby losses for the boiler are not bad with this setup because your oil or gas burner is not having to heat up all of that water that's in the heating distribution piping (or baseboards or radiators), it's just keeping water right there in the boiler hot. If your hot water usage volume is very small and/or if you don't have a mixing valve to avoid scalding, you can set the LO to a still lower number if you prefer. Tradeoffs on Turning Off the Boiler to Save MoneyTurning off the heating boiler in order to save money during most of the day when you are not using hot water, sounds appealing. A much debated question is just where is the break-even point between the standby losses from keeping the boiler warm, versus the extra fuel you have to burn to heat up an ice cold boiler when you need hot water from the tankless coil. Our OPINION is that the cost to heat up a very cold boiler in a basement or crawl area just to make hot water is worse if it's a larger boiler or a cast iron unit that will have more (cold) thermal mass. If it's a modern, physically smaller steel boiler, your cost to heat it up from cold will be less - but then your tankless coil is going to suck that heat out quickly when you're running hot water through the tankless coil regardless. An exactly correct answer to this question requires either some theoretical calculations for your particular boiler, burner, and the gph or BTUh rate of the burner along with the thermal mass of the boiler. Easier might be to keep an eye on the total boiler run time under the two circumstances: left on and an occasional intermittent burn cycle versus left off and a longer heat-up cycle. It's slightly more complex: heating up an ice cold boiler may force the burner to run at less than optimum efficiency for a longer part of its burn cycle than otherwise. Warnings about Turning off the Boiler Completely
Bottom line on Woodstoves and Hydronic Heating
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)... Ask a Question or Search InspectApediaQuestions & answers or comments about the best settings for aquastat controls on heating boilers Ask a Question or Enter Search Terms in the InspectApedia search box just below. Technical Reviewers & ReferencesRelated Topics, found near the top of this page suggest articles closely related to this one.
Books & Articles on Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, & Repair
| |||||||