Well piping repair diagnostic FAQs:

This article series provides answers to frequently-asked questions about how to diagnose problems with the piping used bring well water to a building - from the bottom of the well to the pump to the pressure tank to the building water supply.

Q&A on Fixing Well Piping Problems

These questions and answers on fixing leaks, clogs, or other problems with water well pipes were posted originally

at WELL PIPING REPAIRS - so please check out the advice given there.

On 2020-10-15 by (mod)

T

You'd need to bore a new well - you can't fit a 10 inch diameter casing into a 6-inch diameter well bore.

On 2020-10-15 by T

How can I change the well pipe casing from a six inch to a 10 inch?

On 2020-09-28 by danjoefriedman (mod)

Brandy

No, PVC or other plastic piping doesn't corrode.

Depending on the pressure control switch settings for your water pump, it's normal for water pressure to range between a low of 20 or 30 psi and a high of 40 or 50 psi when you're running water. Water pressure drops to the low CUT-IN pressure then the pump turns on and runs until pressure reaches the CUT-OUT or CUT-OFF pressure or high pressure.

If your pressure drops below the CUT-IN then the most common causes (there are others) are either the switch isn't responding (replace it) or the well is running out of water.

On 2020-09-28 by Brandy

I have a new pump and wiring, have good pressure when I turn on the water, but while on it starts to lose pressure. It is mostly pvc pipe. Those can’t really get corroded? Could it be the bladder tank? I am at wits end with my process of elimination. Please help

On 2018-12-18 by (mod) - health problem from water pipes running through un-sanitary cellar?

Lee

You ask a reasonable question but one that cannot be assessed by text.

If the interior of the water filter or the filter canister or not kept clean and were in contact with contaminated materials you would probably need to sanitize the filter and install a new Fresh filter cartridge.

Then have your water supply tested for at least bacteria.

On 2018-12-16 by lee

Recently had a sediment filter placed on my cold water pipe running from the water tank to the rest of the house.

this is in the cellar - the pipes, adapters, tools ,etc. were placed on the cellar floor - a cellar floor that had had dead mice on it and filthy mouse traps. how much of a health risk is this ?

my drinking water is going through pipes and connections that have just been on a filthy cellar floor.
thank you,
lee

On 2018-08-07 by (mod) - pump lost pressure - why?

When your pump has lost pressure capacity you need some more on-site diagnostic help.

We don't know if the problem is a bad pump, low volts to the pump, low water in the well, or a leak and well piping, or perhaps something else.

Try this WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE

On 2018-08-07 by victor

My well pump starting to loose pressure and water supply capacity per gallon.

A week ago noticed that the gallons per minute dial was not moving and than suddenly the totalizer. It pumps but takes a long time to fill my storage tank.

The pump is 15yrs old. Has it seen its good days already?

On 2018-07-26 by (mod) -

Lou

I understand the temptation as it avoids digging and routing a new pipe. I'm not clear how you'll make the connection or transition even if you could push a 3/4" pipe inside the 1" one, but beyond that you will be reducing the flow rate of your pump.

Using this seat of the pants calculation let's see how much the flow rate is restricted when changing from a 1" pipe to a 3/4" ID pipe.

Area of a 3/4" diameter circle is 0.44"
Area of a 1" diameter circle is 0.79"

.79-.44 = 0.35" reduction in area

.35 / .79 = .44 or 44% reduction in area which is not exactly flow rate but gives you an idea where the calculation is headed.

From WATER FLOW RATE CALCULATE or MEASURE at https://inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Flow_Rate_Measurement.php

you'll read that the flow rate formula for given pipe diameter is Q = A x V where Q is flow rate, A is area, and V is water velocity in feet per second (or meters per second)

For a 1" pipe, if we ASSUME for this calcuation, a simple water velocity of 1 foot per second

Q = .79 x 1 fps or 0.79 cubic feet per second.

For your 3/4" pipe using the same assumptions you can see that you'd have a 44% reduction in actual flow rate (because I cheated and chose 1 foot per second velocity to make the calculation easier).

The ratio of flow rate between the two lines will be constant as will the loss from going the the smaller line.

On 2018-07-26 by Lou C

I have a 100' deep well and the well pump is at 80' depth. After recently replacing the old 1/2 horsepower pump, 1" piping and wiring a leak has emerged in the 75' pipe to the house. The old pipe to the house is 1" ID. We are about to dig at the pump casing hoping that the leak is just outside the pitless adapter. My question is, would it be OK to run a new 3/4" ID pipe from the pitless adapter to the house inside the old 1" ID pipe? The house has a kitchen sink, 2 full baths, clothes washer and dish washer.

On 2017-11-07 by (mod) -

There are commercial systems for relining fairly small diameter pipes, but I'm not sure if that's going to be cost reasonable for a residential property.

Thre are also are horizontal boring machines that can run a new pipe under concrete.

But I don't know how we would make the connection to the pitless adapter at the well casing without breaking up the concrete at the casing.

On 2017-11-06 by CHRIS P.

I have a leaking well pipe, the one going from the house to the well casing, and its leaking right at the casing about 85% back into the well. That's the good part. The bad is all this pipe is under concrete about 6' from the house and 48" + down in the ground.

Can this be replaced from inside the basement of the house without concrete removal. Obviously the leak will only get worse over time. Current no pressure loss, etc. Please advise. It seems to me that a sleeve would have to driven around the current pipe to prevent dirt collapse, then exchange of the water pipe.

On 2017-07-19 by (mod) -

Eileen

I am sorry to say "call a lawyer" or perhaps "legal aid" but if the landlord isn't providing water you may have no other option. Most leases require that the landlord deliver certain very basic things - if yours does, then water may be one of them.

Keep us posted.

Daniel

On 2017-07-19 by Eileen

I rent land and own mobile home along with 10 other homes in Pa. For 6 months our water went from ok pressure to barely dripping out.. can't take a shower.. washer takes an hour just to fill. Landlord has a well and said a pipe must be broken somewhere but He refuses to fix it. Anything we can do about this?

On 2017-03-17 by (mod) -

Chuck

You're probably talking about trying to install a 2-line jet pump - that is a jet pump set up for two lines - on a one line well - that is, just one pipe runs into the well.

Some jet pumps are convertible between 2-line and 1-line. Typically the conversion requires buying and bolting a different front-end onto the pump.

But a 2-line jet pump, as is, wont' work on a one-line well.

On 2017-03-15 by Chuck

Can I use a pump with 2 inlet pipes on a single inlet line

On 2016-07-11 by (mod) -

Betty,

You need a well-plumber on-site to evaluate the well, piping, electrical wiring, type of pump needed, pressure tank, controls, and other components. You need to know the well capacity to deliver water and also the water potability. Start with a water bacteria test.

On 2016-07-11 by Betty

I have a well with a 2 inch outer pvc pipe (white) inner 1 inch pvc pipe (pinkish or beige like) pump was missing when I got the place. My neighbor chopped up the pipes to steal the wire. The outer 1 is now about 6 inches to 1 ft above ground severed at the top. Inner is little deeper.

My husband said there is a small metal pipe inside inner pvc pipe lower than the inner pipe. How do I fix this?

On 2016-06-28 by (mod) -

I wanted to add

Do not pay more than 50% of the job before the job is completed satisfactorily.

On 2016-06-28 21:25:32.730293 by (mod) -

Selecting in Indiana:

You are darn right, it is very difficult to know if a repair company can do the job [properly]. The most incompetent are often also the worst fibbers.

Typically people say "check with the better business bureau or similar sources for complaint records"
but that's never enough; even a good contractor with a good rep can send an idiot to your job.

These tips can help:

Referrals from people you know who had good results

Contractor is licensed, insured, has been in business for some time

Contractor claims to have specific experience with your specific area of need

When asked any question about the job that requires some actual content in a cogent reply (you don't have to know the "right" answer) listen for this:

- "Don't worry about it honey, we'll take care of it" - fire that one immediately

- "Don't worry we do it all" - seriously doubtful

- Any answer that is obviously arm-waving random blathering baloney - seriously doubtful though some good contractors are not good communicators

- A thoughtful answer that has content and replies to you directly: well in that case we typically do this, at about that cost, but of course what we see at your specific job might change that ... - sounds promising

- What are the warranty terms for the job?

"Guaranteed until my truck reaches the end of your driveway" - ?

On 2016-06-28 by Selecting The Best Repair Contractor

Hi. How do you know if a certain repair company can do the job? I mean does it important to have licenses, etc.? I am in Indiana and I've heard of Indy Water Solutions. Any feedback? Thanks.

On 2015-12-06 by (mod) -

Sounds as if the pump is not running; check the pump control switch, relay switch, and pump wiring; if the pump is submersible and is not operating you may have to pull it but there are some electrical tests that can be made from above-ground first.

On 2015-12-06 by Anonymous

power at the control box, power at the tank yet no water running

Question: Water pressure problems after replacing the well lines, pump doesn't seem to deliver water

I have a plumbing problem that I cannot seem to solve. I have a shallow well (41 ft. to the water line) with a 1 hp. jet pump with 1 1/4" and 1" black plastic supply lines leading to a jet assembly and a 1 1/4" foot valve but I cannot get the system to draw water from the well continuously.

The system was working fine until last winter when the PVC supply lines leading from the pump head to the water pressure tank froze and busted.

So, I replaced the PVC and primed the pump but when I turned it on, it would not draw water from the well. So, thinking that the freeze might have damaged the impellers, I replaced the pump.

However, after priming the new pump, it would not draw water from the well either.

So, I then pulled the supply lines out of the well and replaced the jet assembly (which was badly corroded) and the foot valve as well.

Now, when I prime the system, close the pressure regulator valve, turn the pump on, wait for the pressure to come up, and then open the pressure regulator valve a bit, water will exit from the side of the pressure regulator valve and out of the supply line but the volume of the flow fluctuates back and forth from a trickle to a jet for a little while and then suddenly ceases to flow altogether.

In addition, my spotter tells me that he can hear water rising up the pipes until just before it reaches the elbows where the supply lines make the turn from vertical to horizontal and then it suddenly falls back down the pipes. So, could you please tell me what you think the problem is?
Thanks, Bill Bernhardt

Reply: Check for well piping leaks first

Bill,

I don't fully understand the details in your message but I'm wondering from your description of fluctuating pressure if the pump is not picking up water at the foot valve. It sounds as if you're looking for water flow BEFORE the water reaches the pressure tank, right?

If not, I'd look for a water logged pressure tank or a tank with a stuck bladder.

From your description I wonder if there is a bad connection made during your well line replacement, possibly leaking water back into the well.

Question: New plastic water line from pump to tank, but now water flow is stopped and water pressure lost

I have a 60' water well which I am sure has water due to the rain. I installed a new 1" x 20' plastic water line from the pump to the bladder tank. When I started it back up the water flows out of the spigots for approximately 1 minute and then stops flowing.

The pump is still trying to build but takes a while. If I shut the spigots off and let the pump build it eventually builds back up. How do I trouble shoot this?

By the way I have a submersible pump. When checking water I have an outlet prior to the bladder tank and the same thing happens. - Gary

Reply:

Gary if you are sure the pump itself is OK I'd start looking for a well piping leak.

Turn off water into the building at the end of a pump cycle and watch the pressure gauge. If pressure drops there is probably a piping leak or a bad foot valve or check valve. Also be sure that the water pump itself is undamaged and working properly.

Follow-Up: improper pump electrical wiring connections can cause well water pump to lose power

Everything is fixed now but I wanted to share my experience which caused me to replace a steel 1" water line with a plastic 1" line.

That's only the beginning. I replaced that plastic line as I thought I had a kink in it.

After each of these changes disappointment set in as nothing changed the results of 30 secs of water and then nothing for 5 minutes or so. Next was the pressure switch and all new piping from the pressure tank.

Next was pulling the 65' deep pump and changing it out. Pump went back down in and I was certain things would be looking up. Disappointment...disappointment....frustration on and on. I'll prep you here a little.

Early on like a couple of weeks ago when I replaced the line the first time I disconnected the pump connections and since this is a lake house fromt he mid 60's the wiring is not up to my type of wiring although it is sound.

Anyway the 3 wire connection was marked with colored tape so I could get back to the correct hook up. I made an assumption that one of the wires was the ground since later it was untaped the first time that it was a ground wire.

When I replace the line the first time and re-connected it I must have gotten the wiring backwards by using the ground as one of the voltage legs. Yes. I have done all of this work taking 2 weekends because I had the wiring wrong.

On a good note I have learned and I have shared this experience. Look at the wiring if the pump turns on and shuts off. Thanks Dan for your attempt to help. It is much appreciated.
Gary

Comment:

Gary, thanks so much for the follow-up on your loss of water pressure diagnosis and repair process.

We learn an important diagnostic clue from your description: a well pump might be improperly wired electrically but still "run" only it may not run normally and its power may be cut and thus water pressure may be low to nil.

Ruling out piping leaks and pressure switch problems helps focus in on another item to check out: the pump wiring connections. A similar problem can occur in older fused wiring systems - the fuse on one leg of the 240V circuit can blow, leaving the other side hot or live.

A too-quick check for electrical power can miss that problem.

See WATER PUMP WIRING REPAIR

Question: I see water around my well casing and a fountain of water in the yard

I have a question. Yesterday I noticed that around my well there was a lot of water on the ground. My first thought was that the pipe either cracked or has a leak. I started to dig to see if I could find the culprit. Here in CT the zoning states that the pipe should be around 48 inches deep.

I dug to that amount, but still didn’t hit the pipe so I need to go deeper. When I run the water in the house, I can see a small fountain not far from the well casing.

The weird thing is when I turn off the water the fountain stops. I left it for a few hours and all of the water was gone. (Seeped into the soil because the ground is not frozen) I then turned the water on inside and the hole started to fill up again.

I was told if there was a crack or hole in the pipe that the water would constantly flow. I was told that the feed line going to the house is always charged. I also do not have any water flow drop or air coming from the faucets when I turn them on. I was told that you would have these issues if there was a cracked pipe.

I called to plumbers and was told that it would be around 1200.00 to fix this. I am a handy person and can fix just about anything. Does anyone have any suggestions? If it just a cracked or broken pipe I could fix this. - Bill C 1/30/12

Reply:

Bill, it sounds as if you are describing a leaky well pipe between the well and the house. When your well pump runs it pressurizes the water line to the house, squirting water out of the point of leakage. Dig at that "fountain in the yard" first.

Question: When we turn on a faucet air spits out

We have a bored 24 in. well dug in 1987. It has a submersible pump which was installed when the well was first dug and the tank was placed inside the well to protect it from freezing. The original tank was replaced about 5 years ago.

We checked the water level in the well, and we have 18 feet of water. The pressure gauge on the tank indicates between 40-70. Other than replacing the tank, we have had virtually no problems with this well. When we turn on the faucet, it spits and sputters from air in the lines.

What would be the causes (how many ways) for air in the lines? - Terry 3/24/12

Reply:

Terry, about air spitting out of faucets, see AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES - that's the diagnostic procedure you want to read.

Question: how do I get my submersible pump out of the well for inspection or repair?

I have a Franklin submersible pump, 3 wire, 1/2 hp and lost all pressure. After checking determined most likely problem is pump. How do I lift pump out of casing past pitless adaptor or remove adaptor when it is 7-8 ft down casing? Can I pull the pump by hand or do I need a winch or come-along? - Frank 5/23/12

Reply:

Frank,

In modern drilled well installations the well riser pipe (the vertical pipe rising inside the well casing from the well pump or foot valve upwards) has to make a right-turn at its top in order to exit the side of the well casing and thence to be connected to a horizontal well pipe that connects the well to the building.

This connection through the side of the steel well casing is made by the pitless adapter that you named.

Note: some well riser pipes exit straight up through the top of the well casing cap - without a pitless adapter. In that case the issue of releasing the well pipe riser from the pitless adapter doesn't pertain, but the risk of dropping components back into the well and the possible need for a winch or crane still apply.

If you stop by a plumbing supplier to take a look at pitless adapters you'll see that the fittings include both horizontal parts that bolt through and seal a hole cut in the side of the well casing and a slip-connector that marries a fitting atop the well pipe riser to the pitless adapter.

To remove the well pump from the well the well driller or plumber ties a rope or wire around the top of the well pipe riser just below its slide-fitting that connects the top of the riser to the pitless adapter. The rope is then pulled vertically to lift the well pipe and of course the submersible pump attached to it up past the pitless adapter (that remains bolted through the side of the well casing) and out of the well.

For a shallow well - 25 feet or less - it's reasonable to pull the well pipe and foot valve or submersible pump by hand. Our photo (above left) illustrates a polypropylene rope someone left tied to the well piping for this purpose. (Some experts advise removing the rope out of concern that it may wick contaminants into the well.)

But for a deep well the weight of all of the piping and pump may be too great to lift by hand, not to mention the risk that you drop the whole shebang back down into the well - leading to an embarrassing call to a well professional.

So for deep wells and for wells with heavy steel piping, experts use a manual winch or a power winch attached to a tower or to a crane mounted on the well service truck. (Photo at left).

How do I get the well pump past the pitless adapter

Getting the well pump past the pitless adapter is not normally an issue: once we un-hook the top of the well riser pipe from the pitless adapter assembly and begin to lift the well piping and pump out of the well (by hand or by winch or crane), the pump will have clearance to pass by the pitless adapter.

On occasion however a pump or other components can become stuck in a well, particularly if piping has become bent, the well casing has collapsed or been damaged, or the pump has fallen off of the bottom of the well piping.

If you encounter that trouble, it's time to call a well drilling professional who has tools and experience for retrieving stuff that's been dropped into the well. Or if you want to try to recover from this SNAFU yourself,

at PUMP, SUBMERSIBLE

we discuss repair sleeves for damaged well casings, and in that same article we describe Fishing Tools to Retrieve Stuff from Drilled Steel Casing or Other Water Wells.

Question: Can I unlock my submersible well pump while it is still in the ground?

Can I unlock my submersible while it is still in the ground? - Jeff 5/20/12

Reply:

Jeff, if by "unlock my submersible" you mean that your submersible pump motor has jammed and you want to try to fix it without pulling the well piping and pump out of the ground, I have read some (what I consider very goofy) attempts to free up stuck electric motors by messing with reversing leads or changing voltages - I would NOT try any such stunts.

Watch out: The process is inherently dangerous, risks burning up wiring, starting a fire in the building, shocking someone, and more. Besides we don't know why the pump is "locked" - could be a broken impeller, for example.

If you meant something else - sorry.

...

Continue reading at WELL PIPING REPAIRS or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see these

Or see these

Recommended Articles

• WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR
• WELL CASING LEAK REPAIRS
• WELL PIPE RETRIEVAL TOOLS
• WELL PIPING CHECK VALVES
• WELL PIPING FOOT VALVES
• WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS
• WELL PIPING PITLESS ADAPTER
• WELL PIPING REPAIRS
• WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE
• WELL PITS

 

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