Water tank air charge questions & answers:

This article answers questions about problems with the air charge in a water pressure tank. Too much air, not enough air, air loss, air discharge at faucets, and pump short cycling all can be related to the air charge in a water tank.

This article series describes how to diagnose the loss of and need for air in a water tank, how to add air to a building water pressure tank, and how to detect and correct air and water leaks in a building water supply system where a private well is the water source.

FAQs about the proper charge of air in a water tank

These questions and answers about diagnosing and fixing problems with air charge loss from water pressure tanks were posted originally at WATER TANK AIR LOSS SIGNS - be sure to review the advice given there.

On 2022-05-11 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator - why can't I manually air charge my system?

@Marvin,

The pump may be shutting down because it's overheating or because there is a pump protection device that is protecting it from damage when it starts pumping air rather than water.

But also I wanted to ask how you came up with the 20 psi air pre-charge. The water tank air pre-charge needs to be 2 PSI below the pump cut in pressure setting.

On 2022-05-10 by Marvin

@Inspectapedia Com Moderator,

Today my well people found that the brand-new pump is cycling on/off too quickly (Q 45 sec), causing the capacitors in the new control box to over heat and shut down the high capacity pump. I was able to air-charge both tanks today to the recommended 20psi, which improved the cycle time but only to about 1-1/2 minutes, with tank refill taking another minute.

The pump contractor thinks that the tanks need to be replaced with 120gal bladder models for $3K apiece. (BTW turns out my tanks were placed in service in 1959!). Does this make sense?

I forgot to mention, that even after the improvement in cycle time following air charging, the pump still shuts down before getting through all six irrigation stations.

On 2022-05-09 by Marvin

@Inspectapedia Com Moderator, Its possible. i'll replace the gauge next. Thanks for the suggestion.

On 2022-05-09 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator

@Marvin,

Is it possible that in fact you are indeed adding air to the tank but the pressure gauge itself is clogged and not registering?

On 2022-05-09 by Marvin

@Inspectapedia Com Moderator, Thanks for your replies!

I replaced the Schraeder valve core, and then probbed its internal plumbing for several feet with a wire. I didn't feel any obstruction. Unfortunately, I'm still not able to pressurize the tank after 5+ minutes pumping with electric auto tire pump. Not even a little, although air seems to be readily blowing through the tank's drain faucet when I open it.

On 2022-05-09 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator

@Marvin,

Forgive me I mis-read.

Still I'd look for a blockage at the air inlet. After all, if by "can't air-charge the system" you mean you cannot introduce air into the tank and if you've already tried replacing the Schrader valve stem, then there must be a rust or crud blockage.

On 2022-05-08 by Marvin

@Inspectapedia Com Moderator, The hydropneumatic tanks don't have bladders to get stuck.

On 2022-05-07 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator

@Marvin,

Let's base our decision on objective facts: we need to understand "why" you can't correct the air charge in your pressure tanks: is there a bad air valve, a stuck air or water tank bladder, or something else?

On 2022-05-06 by Marvin

I have two hydro-pneumatic galvanized tanks that are over 50 years old, connected to a well for irrigation. I've recently replaced the well pump, and the system worked well (cycling from 40 to 60 psi) for a couple of months. However, now, after mild use this spring checking the stations, I can no longer manually air-charge the system to the recommended 20 psi (before I could but it took a very long time), and the pump will not cycle on although the tank pressure = 0!

Should I just change out the pressure switch or do I need to replace the tanks? Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

On 2020-11-12 by danjoefriedman (mod) - Davey booster pump cycling problems

Cameron

If the pump turns on immediately when you open a tap your water pressure tank is water-logged - has lost its air charge. See WATER TANK AIR, HOW TO ADD https://inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Tank_Air_Charge.php

If the pump runs occasionally for no reason there's water running somewhere or there there's a leak - see WATER PUMP INTERMITTENT CYCLING https://inspectapedia.com/water/Intermittent-Water-Pump-Cycling.php

On 2020-11-12 by Cameron

We have a Davey HS18-30 booster pump with a small water pressure tank (2 gal?). The pump was in the house when we moved in, so I assume it was installed in 2004 when the house was built. When running "normally" it comes on almost immediately when the water (any faucet) is opened, runs the entire time water is being drawn, then shuts off ~1sec after the faucet is closed. Is this the expected behavior?

However, on occasion the pump will run continuously while no water is being drawn. There are no leaks (running toilets, etc) in the system, but the pump will not shut off until we kill power to the pump and it will immediately start to run again when power is supplied.

We turn the pump off as soon as we realize this occurring but we have sometimes come home and find the pump has been running for hours (it's very hot and has heated the water in the pipes). Eventually it returns to the "normal" operation described above. I'd like to figure out why this is occurring and if it is repairable or if this has potentially damaged the pump enough to warrant a replacement.

On 2017-12-20 by danjoefriedman (mod)

Adam,

With pressure off of the system and the tank drained and filled at atmospheric pressure that's sufficient. Or you can set a tank's pre-charge to 2 psi below the pump cut-in pressure.

On 2017-12-19 by Adam

I have a steel tank w/o bladder. It was waterlogged and short cycling. I drained and refilled air to 38. The pump goes on at 20 and off at 40. The problem is that it does it every minute without water running. I can see the guage drop by watching it. I don't know of any water leaks . Did I just rewater log it or may I have other issues.

On 2018-10-22 by Mark - clear a clog in the tube or pipe conducting pressure to the control switch

Yes sir I did took it off to blow compress air and clean it up

On 2018-10-22 by (mod) - pump does not turn on when water pressure drops

Mark,

When you changed the pressure switch did you also make sure that the tubing or small diameter pipe that conducts water pressure to the switch was also clear? If not, check that.

On 2018-10-22 by Mark

I have a well been working fine. Recently I have had problems I first notice temporary loss of water pressure. I heard air bubbles and system lost pressure while not in use.

So I pulled pump 180 ft installed check valve. Solved bleed off problem.

But not when using water when pressure drops to 30 it should come on it sounds like it try’s but then when pressure drops to zero it kick on and goes to 30 then finally back to 48. Shuts off I changed the pressure switch and still won’t kick in at 30 psi like it should.

What can it be. Only thing left is tank with bladder. Help

On 2018-10-11 by (mod) - Sometimes we can free a stuck bladder by BRIEFLY forcing the tank to a higher water pressure, but WATCH OUT

Alex

Nice going on the diagnosis of the water tank problem.

It sounds to me as if the bladder has collapsed and stuck against the tank bottom, preventing any water entry.

Sometimes we can free a stuck bladder by BRIEFLY forcing the tank to a higher water pressure, but

WATCH OUT: do not subject the tank to a higher pressure than its rating or the tank or nearby piping could explode and injure or kill you - which would make cleaning up the water spill pretty minor in comparison.

When a pump runs and you are dead certain no water is being run in the building I suspect a leak in well piping or in the check valve or foot valve

On 2018-10-11 by Alex - My pump goes on for a few seconds when no water is being taken from faucets etc.

Hi,
I have a house pressure pump system, the motor and pump sits on top of the tank as a combined unit.
My pump goes on for a few seconds when no water is being taken from faucets etc.

I tried to inflate the bladder to pressure but it would not take air, I removed the valve and found that by inserting a small screwdriver into the valve tube, the rubber was hard up against the valve tube.Does this mean that I have to empty the pressure tank before inflating?

On 2018-09-03 by Tony

When i run the water the pressure goes up and down is there an adjustment on the well tank or valve? This started a couple weeks ago but didn’t pay much attention to it

On 2018-06-28 by (mod) - generator having trouble driving well pump?

Perhaps at higher speeds your generator can support the full current load or Draw from the pump current of course is measured in amps not. So voltage regulator wouldn't be a factor.

On 2018-06-28 by emmanuel

Hello everyone. There is this pump at my place it usually pump for 5mins or there about it is manualy switchon and off.

Then recently I notice that if the Gen torgue speed increases it pumps more. The Gen uses an avr so on most cases the voltage is constant.

On 2018-05-23 by (mod) - problem of rapid water pump on-off cycling right at the CUT OUT pressure

Often I find that the problem of rapid water pump on-off cycling right at the CUT OUT pressure is traced to

- Most Often: a debris-clogged check valve between pump and well pipe bottom - pump stops, high pressure water squirts back into the well, pump re-starts. You can diagnose this by watching the water pressure gauge at pump cutout.

Try turning the pump OFF just as it's reaching the CUT OUT pressure, then watch the pressure gauge.

If it falls, and if no water is being used in the building (turn that valve off for this test) then there's a leak between pump and well pipe end.

- on occasion: a failing pressure switch: burned contacts,

- often: debris-clogging at the switch pressure sensor port or in the tube bringing water pressure to the switch,

- commonly: water leaks in the system, such as a bad check valve or foot valve, that shows up more severely at the higher pressure near the pump CUT OFF setting

- an obstruction anywhere between the pump and the pressure tank

- or a cut off pressure that is close to just what the pump can produce

- On occasion: improperly-located pressure control switch - too far from the pressure tank - if this is the case the problem may have always been there or it may show up on an older system in which for any reason the pump output capacity has changed

Be sure to review https://inspectapedia.com/water/Pump_Short_Cycle_Causes.php WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING CAUSES

or if you prefer causes and cures in a more concise table see

WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING DIAGNOSIS TABLE

On 2018-05-23 by Rob

pump pressure switch switches on and off rapidly when high pressure is turning pump off

On 2018-04-22 by (mod) -

Brian

Check out the diagnostic suggestions at WATER PUMP INTERMITTENT CYCLING

On 2018-04-22 by Brian

Water tank tripping on and off during operation every 5 secs or less... usually 30 psi then trips off then.on aagin

On 2018-02-18 by (mod) -

Jose,

If you're sure the tank is starting fully empty, air filled, and it loses it's air charge in a few days, and your water usage volume is typical, then I suspect the tank has an air leak, maybe high in the tank or at the air valve.

On 2018-02-15 by Jose

Our water pump often short cycles. And whenever it does, I drain and refilled the tank. But these past few months, our water pump has been a problem. I was doing the draining and refilling for an average of every 6 days. It does its job on fixing the cycles but after few days, the pump short cycles again. What might be the problem?

On 2018-01-23 by (mod) -

Wiley

I would look first for a frozen tube or nipple conducting water pressure to the pressure control switch, then for a frozen water tank. If those are indoors, warm, were never frozen, then yes the problem is elsewhere. let me know.

On 2018-01-23 by Wiley

Hard freeze broke water pipe to water tank. Replaced pipe but no pressure in bladder. Tried to recharge batter in empty tank. Would not pressure up.
Put a little water in it and then can pressure up tank. When I turn on a faucet in house, water runs fine but tank loses pressure. Pump will not cut off.

On 2017-10-24 by (mod) -

28 psi

On 2017-10-24 by john

How much pressure is correct in 80 gallon bladder tank?.Switch 30-50.

On 2017-06-28 by Anonymous

pump would turn off & on-drained system and check pressure,was very low so we aired system and turn pump on,now Ok?

On 2017-01-17 by Lanny Glassman

replaced water tank, pressure gauge and pressure switch Oct10,2016. Ran ok with 30/50 p switch. Tank about 28 lbs. Now pump in well keeps running, pressure gauge about 24 lbs, water tank 20lbs feels like little if any water in it. When turn off pump pressure holds on gauge( 24lbs) and goes down if faucet is turned on.

On 2016-09-03 by (mod) -

Erratic water pressure?

My first concern would be safe drinking water. Don't drink unknown water without first having at the very least a potability test.

Next, you want to be darn sure that your private well cannot accidentally back-feed your well water into the municipal system. You should never be connected to both systems at the same time, and a mere shutoff valve between them won't satisfy your health department (as someone could leave the valve open) - disconnect from city water completely if you're going back to using your well.

My next thought is that if someone went to the expense and trouble to connect to city water it was probably because they were finding the well inadequate. Sure the well itself could have been OK and the problem could have been with pump, control, piping, valves that get mis-diagnosed.

You may have seen what looked like plenty of water while you were drawing only water that was in the well bore itself - the static head. Once you exhaust that water if your usage rate exceeds the well flow rate of water into the well bore, you'll run out of water. Your pump may include a protection circuit or switch that shuts it off when it's not pulling water - lest the pump itself be ruined.

Search InspectApedia.com for WELL FLOW TEST to see how to find out what the well can deliver.

Search for WATER QUALITY TEST to see more about testing the water for potability - is it safe to drink?

On 2016-09-03 by Matt

We recently bought a house in a rural community that was hooked up to city water. After a few months of paying enormous water bills I decided that paying the city for what I have in the back yard was ludicuris. So, I go out and turn the power on to the well and low and behold it worked like magic. The tank and preasure switch were a bit dusty but over all everything looked good.

And it worked. so a buddy of mine and I dug up the back yard, found the pipes from the well to the house, inspected them and hooked them back up to the house. Everything worked fine for a couple of weeks then the water preasure became quite Eratic. The water out of the faucets would flow like...water water WATER water water WATER WATER water water.. I'm new to this and have read a bit here.

I pretty much decided to start with the preasure switch since it took a couple of flips to get it working. Any other ideas for me to look in to?

Question: How long is the normal on/off cycle for a water pump?

(Aug 1, 2014) Bai said:

How long is the normal on/off cycle for a water pump? We recently replaced our water pump because the old unit got stolen. Because of this,we made a new well and relocated our pump. The one installed now takes too much time to fill up the tank. Here's our set up for the new well:

1) 7 2" GI Pipe for well casing
2) 4 1 1/4" GI Pipe with 1 1/4" foot valve dropped inside the casing
3) 1 1/4" GI Pipe runs into the pump and out a 1 1/4" pipe through 2 82 gallon tanks

It really takes a long time for the tank to fill up to 30 PSI. It takes a longer time to fill up when the pressure hits 20 PSI. I'm afraid we could burn the motor if we continue this.

[Click to enlarge any image]

Images of the operation of a waterlogged pressure tank shown here are provided courtesy of Carson Dunlop Associates, a Toronto home inspection & education company, used with permission.

Also see the diagnostic guide starting at WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR or select a topic from the More Reading links or topic ARTICLE INDEX at the end of this article.

Reply:

The short answer is the fill time depends on the tank size, pump rate and well flow rate. We gave a longer answer at the other page where you posted this question.

Question: How do you tell if your pressure tank needs more air?

(Sept 3, 2014) Anonymous said:
How do you tell if your pressure tank needs more air?

Reply:

Typically from WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING

Question: Do I have to drain my water tank prior to adding air?

Oct 6, 2014) George said:
Do I have to drain my tank prior to adding air? My air pres. is now at 26PSI and it is suggested I increase to 38PSI

Reply:

No George, but 38 psi sounds a bit high unless the pump control cut-in pressure is 40 psi - which would be odd and high.

Question: pump never gets to shutoff pressure until I turn off the shower - is this a water tank problem?

(Nov 6, 2014) Brad Shoults said:
I have my pressure switch set at 20 psi on 50 psi off. everything was fine, but now I notice with just a shower running the pump can't get up to shut off pressure and never quits till shower is off. Too much water in tank, bad impeller,any suggestions?

Reply:

Brad

I'd look for

- something else is running water

- a leak in well piping

- a reduction in well flow rate

- a bad pump impeller

- a dirty water filter

I don't think a waterlogged tank can cause the problem you describe

Question: pump pressure switch setting creep?

(Mar 24, 2015) Bob Chervenock said:
Pump pressure switch was set to 30psi on and 50psi off. Over time, pressure gauge now has risen to 40psi on and 58psi off. Is bladder tank low on air or is pressure switch out of adjustment?

Reply:

I don't often see creep in the pressure switch itself.

Check for a gauge that's sticking - make an independent pressure measurement.

If pressure is creeping up and you re-set the switch and it still creeps up I suspect there might be a pinhole leak in the bladder - if your system uses a bladder type tank.

Question: air and water spurts out of faucets

(Sept 27, 2015) ken said:
air builds up in piping and comming out of faucet. Water spurts out at times, or high air is released under higher pressure.

Reply:

Ken

Search InspectApedia for "AIR DISCHARGE FROM FAUCETS" to read diagnostic and repair suggestions for the condition you describe.

Question: loud THUD and SPROING noise from water system

(Mar 8, 2016) yvonne said:
city girl moved to country. newbie with well water systems. woken this morning at 4am by a large - like SUPER LOUD - "SPROING" noise. yes, that cartoon noise like a big coiled spring releasing. and at the same time a loud THUD.
I went downstairs, and checked the basement out, not knowing what it could have been, and now i am wondering if there is something going on with the well pump/tank. and now sitting here typing this, i remember about 2 weeks ago, my boyfriend said he heard that noise too, once. I have checked this site out, but see nothing even similar to it regarding issues/symptoms. any ideas?

I should add to my comment below, that no water has been turned on or off at the time.
there was no one else in the house at the time, and no automatic sprinklers or anything.

Reply:

Yvonne, I'd like to help out with SPROING and THUD noises but geez, seems as if lots of things can go SPROING, THUD. If you heard these noises at the water tank and pump controls perhaps we're hearing a water hammer noise associated with a pump turning on or off. In any event loud 'sproing - thud' sounds are ominous, as if some component is in trouble.

See if you can pin down the sounds to

- the room or building area indoors or outside
- the specific equipment
- the turning on or off of equipment, faucets, switches, of any sort.

Also search InspectApedia for WATER PRESSURE SWITCH NOISE and for WATER HAMMER NOISE to read more diagnostic suggestions.

keep me posted

Question: pressure drops when pump kicks on, jumpy pressure needle

Apr 19, 2016) JeffB said:
I have typical water well with pressure tank. I've had pretty low water pressure in upstairs for quite some time. In attempt to improve things, I adjusted the tank so it clicks on at 30 and clicks off at 50. I also pumped air in the tank to bring it up to 28 pounds. It seemed to improve things for about a week, but now things are worse than they were before. I noticed a few symptoms that I thought might help someone with experience diagnose my issue:

- when the pressure reaches its cut off point, the pump shuts off. The pressure drops somewhere between 5 and 10 pounds before it stabilizes.

- I notice that the pressure needle is quite jumpy when it reaches the cut-on point too.

- when the pressure tank is filling, the *rate* at which the pressure climbs also goes up

- when the water pump kicks off, the tubing that goes to the pump shakes back and forth significantly and makes a noise that can be heard upstairs

Any ideas? Thanks in advance!

Reply:

Jeff

I am guessing that your pump is having trouble reaching the 50 psi cutout. Try dropping it to 45 and let me know if that helps. You'll have higher pressure but more frequent pump on-off cycles (causing pump wear). I'm also guessing that the pump has been damaged by running dry or in low water in a low recovery-rate well.

(Apr 19, 2016) JeffB said:
Dan.. thanks for the quick response. I would think if that were the problem, then the pump would work a lot longer before shutting off? It only runs for about a minute before cutting off. Unlike another property that we owned, this house always seems to have a well that produces a lot of water. IDK.

Anonymous said:
Jeff if a pump consistently runs for just a short time after you've turned off any running water that suggests the pressure tank is waterlogged

Question: pinhole leaks in copper piping

(May 2, 2016) JJ said:
Hi. We just replaced some corroded pipe that comes out of the pressure tank (our copper piping tends to pinhole in this house, so re replaced the no-good bit with a piece of pex, put in a new shutoff valve, and fastened the whole thing back together).

Since the pressure tank was drained and refilled during the course of this work the pump is short-cycling a lot! We were going to try to test the bladder and see if it has proper pressure in it, but now i'm wondering if somehow we ended up with extra air trapped inside the tank when we refilled it and it didn't come out through the pipes.

ALSO almost 2 weeks on, a new leak started - out a spigot on the set of piping that contains the pressure switch & house exit line. it's a spigot with no shutoff, and I've no idea what to do about that.
any thoughts on either issue? and might they be related? is our best starting point to test the pressure of the air bladder and go from there? thanks so much!

Reply:

JJ:

About pinholes in copper piping: have your water tested for corrosivity. It may need to be treated.

If your water tank uses an internal bladder, the water and air are kept separate. Only if the bladder is burst or damaged would water (or air) move from the water pump and piping into the tank body.

Question: no water pressure

(May 9, 2016) Ginger said:
We an no longer water the yard and run water anywhere in home

Reply:

Ginger,

If you mean that you have no water anywhere search InspectApedia.com for NO WATER PRESSURE to read an organized approach to diagnosis and repair of this problem.

If you mean you have water indoors but not at your outside faucets, then most likely a shutoff valve has become closed or a faucet or pipe or elbow clogged.

Question: water pump cycles quickly and continuously

(May 26, 2016) Kelly said:
I replaced our pressure tank because the old one started leaking and the pump short cycles very rapidly and continuously. I replaced the pressure switch thinking that was the issue and the new switch is kicking in and out the same way. We cannot use the system as it is so I need to find a solution. The contractor charges $125./hr and I cannot afford them.

Reply:

Please search InspectApedia.com for WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING to see how to diagnose and fix the problem.

Question: how much air pressure needed in my tank?

(May 29, 2016) Anonymous said:
How mush air pressure is neede in my tank?

Reply:

Anon, in the ARTICLE INDEX or related links above, just below the Continue Reading link above, click on

WATER TANK AIR HOW MUCH TO ADD

Question: pump kicks on for 6 seconds

(June 5, 2016) Lisa said:
My tank is at least 20 y/o. My pump is kicking in for 6 seconds, shuts off and kicks on after a few minutes while water is running. If the water isn't running, it kicks on about every half hour. It's a bladder tank. I've checked for leaks and found no water leaks in any of the pipes or faucets. The points are only a couple of years old. Should I replace my tank?

Reply:

Check for a dirty water filter or other pump or tank outlet blockage, and check that water is entering the bladder in the tank: you should see the pressure climb when the pump first starts. I wouldn't replace the tank unless investigation shows that the water tank bladder has burst. Search InspectApedia for WATER TANK BLADDER BURST to read more.

(June 5, 2016) Lisa said:
It doesn't show that is losing pressure or gaining pressure when it kicks on. There is no drop in pressure when the water is running. I've done the turn of the power, drain the tank and then refill it thing. But, there is constant moisture on the slab around the tank with no leaks in the pipes going in or out of the tank.

(mod) said:
That suggests that the gauge is not working, stuck, debris-clogged or something similar.

Moisture around a water tank can be simply from condensation dripping off of the tank; but if can inspect the tank under-side (without moving pipes and causing worse trouble) double check that there's no damage there.

(June 5, 2016) Lisa said:
Thanks for the advice! I'm get my son to come over and help me! You're a Godsend!

(mod) said:
Glad to assist; keep us posted: working together helps us all.

Question: pump runs if I give the tank a little shake

(June 15, 2016) Matt said:
My water in my house stops working. If I go down to the tank and give it a little shake, my water starts working again for a short period of time. Could this be air pressure or maybe a switch?
flag like

Reply:

Sounds like a loose connection or switch component. Next time try tapping on the pressure control switch. Debris can clog its sensor. If so replace the switch. Keep me posted, Matt.

Question: converting back from city water to well water, now water pressure is erratic

2016 09 03 Matt said:

We recently bought a house in a rural community that was hooked up to city water. After a few months of paying enormous water bills I decided that paying the city for what I have in the back yard was ludicuris. So, I go out and turn the power on to the well and low and behold it worked like magic.

The tank and preasure switch were a bit dusty but over all everything looked good. And it worked. so a buddy of mine and I dug up the back yard, found the pipes from the well to the house, inspected them and hooked them back up to the house. Everything worked fine for a couple of weeks then the water preasure became quite Eratic.

The water out of the faucets would flow like...water water WATER water water WATER WATER water water.. I'm new to this and have read a bit here. I pretty much decided to start with the preasure switch since it took a couple of flips to get it working. Any other ideas for me to look in to?

Reply:

Erratic water pressure?

My first concern would be safe drinking water. Don't drink unknown water without first having at the very least a potability test.

Next, you want to be darn sure that your private well cannot accidentally back-feed your well water into the municipal system. You should never be connected to both systems at the same time, and a mere shutoff valve between them won't satisfy your health department (as someone could leave the valve open) - disconnect from city water completely if you're going back to using your well.

My next thought is that if someone went to the expense and trouble to connect to city water it was probably because they were finding the well inadequate.

Sure the well itself could have been OK and the problem could have been with pump, control, piping, valves that get mis-diagnosed.

You may have seen what looked like plenty of water while you were drawing only water that was in the well bore itself - the static head.

Once you exhaust that water if your usage rate exceeds the well flow rate of water into the well bore, you'll run out of water. Your pump may include a protection circuit or switch that shuts it off when it's not pulling water - lest the pump itself be ruined.

Search InspectApedia.com for WELL FLOW TEST to see how to find out what the well can deliver.

Search for WATER QUALITY TEST to see more about testing the water for potability - is it safe to drink?

On 2014-07-13 by (mod) -

When a pump keeps cycling and we are sure that no water is running into the building, we've got either a failed check valve, or foot valve, or a leak in piping. If it's the latter, your leak could be in a buried pipe section or within the well, or at a pitless adapter or other fitting. Sometimes these look fine but are leaking. I'd check again.

On 2014-07-13 by Ed Burningham

Thanks Dan,
It's a hand dug well and I can access the only junction which is not leaking. When I had the poly pipe up the rest looked fine. Could it be something with the jet itself?

On 2014-07-13 by (mod) -

Ed, if pressure falls and water into the building is shut off, I'd suspect a well piping leak.

On 2014-07-12 by Ed Burningham

Hi,
Great site. I've gone through your diagnosis pages and still having trouble.

I have a 25' well with a newer jet pump and poly pipes. Pump was cycling every 10 minutes as the pressure would slowly drop. I checked my small amptrol pressure tank and there was no pressure. I re-pressurezed to 30psi and it's holding steady uncharged. I isolated down to just the well lines and the tank and I'm still losing pressure. No water leaks so I replaced my foot valve and pressure gauge. Still slow drop. What am I missing? Thanks

On 2014-07-08 by (mod) -

Rajesh

Check that the pump cut-out is set a bit too high - the pump is having trouble reaching it, or check for a debris clogged pressure control switch or for burned contacts. Try replacing the switch and dropping the pressure cut out to 58.

On 2014-07-08 by Rajesh

My Goulds pump is adjusted to cut in at 30psi and cut off at 60 psi. My problem is : it wont remain off once it has reached the "cut off" point (60 psi.) It simply clicks off and back on continuously until i cut the power.

Any idea how to have it completely switch off when the cut off point has been reached?

On 2014-03-26 by (mod) -

Possibly it's a bad pump (running dry) but don't forget to check that the system is primed.

On 2014-03-26 by Anonymous

The pump is running now and there is hardly any water coming from the tap. I'm headed to town to get a pump, Maybe the turning on of cycling ruined the pump. Thanks

On 2014-03-25 by (mod) -

"Clicking on & off. it would build up pressure and hold for about 15 seconds then I could here this swishing sound and the pressure would drop of fast. " like you I thought this sounds as if water is flowing back into the well - maybe a bad check valve or foot valve. Do you think the pump ran so long trying to regain prime that it has a damaged impeller? That could occur if the system kept losing prime and the pump ran dry.

On 2014-03-25 by CARL FOOTE

My system is about 5 yrs old. I replaced the water pump last year & the control box. The pump was actually not bad, it was the control box that was bad.

Couple weeks ago, the wife called me in and reported that there was no water. I have a low pressure switch on the system so I just pressed the lever and the pump started up and everything pressured up

. I thought it was odd that the pressure would get so low that the low pressure switch would cut out, cause the pump should have started long before that.

A couple days later, I noticed that the system was short cycling. Clicking on & off. it would build up pressure and hold for about 15 seconds then I could here this swishing sound and the pressure would drop of fast.

The pump would start and build up pressure again and this cycle continued. The swishing sound was water rushing through the pipes. It had no where to go except back down the well pipe so figured I had a bad check valve.

Also, when I closed the valve in the water line coming from the pump, the swishing sound would not happen, and the system would say pressured up until I opened the valve. I pulled the pump and put in a new check valve, The old check valve looked fine. Now, I have more problems.

The system does not short cycle any longer, but takes a long time to build up pressure, and when turning on a tap, the pressure is gone in less than a minute. At this point pump is running (had to bypass the low pressure switch) but very little water comes out of the tap & pressure does not build. If no water is running, pressure will finally build and pump will shut off.

It seems that the pump is not pumping any water. I checked voltage on pressure switch - it 240 volts on both sides when kicked on. I have little problem wiggling the pressure tank, when the system is pressured up. It seems to me that I have a bad pump and a bad pressure tank.

Just can't figure out how the pump would go bad! What should I do next?

On 2014-03-17 by (mod) -

John, check for a water logged water pressure tank.

On 2014-03-17 by john

irrigation well has three zones; pump short cycles in zone three only. Pump constantly runs at 55 psi in zones one and two; pump is set at 40psi to come in and 65 psi to come out.

On 2013-01-14 by kathy

i forgot to mention that the water at the clean out valve in the pumphouse runs normally and full water pressure comes out. It just doesn't seem to go to the house.

On 2013-01-14 by kathy

our pumphouse froze and ruptured the connector pipe below the pressure switch. I replaced it and now the pump turns on, the pressure valve reads a full 50 psi and everything seems to be normal but....no water in the house. The pump has shutoff panel that reads normal function.

No under or overload or short cycling. It was only -15 so I am not thinking that the actual waterline to the house could have frozen in that short period of time. The hot water tank is turned off. The pressure tank feels empty and reads the same as ever. The whole system is only three years old. What else can I check?

On 2012-12-31 by ray

what could be the problem if there is water leaking out of the pressure switch valve out of the pipe it starts out as a drip then streams then after a while it stops

On 2012-12-18 by (mod) -

At our article on water pu p short cycling we list other causes besides a waterlogged pressure tank, such as a clogged water filter. If the tank is waterlogged and you cannot get air in nor water out then I suspect a stuck or torn collapsed internal tank bladder.

On 2012-12-17 by Dave

The shut off problem seem to be fixed. I've given it a good workout and haven't got it to fail.

Now to my other problem. The pressure from the faucet pulses. From everything I've read, this points to a water logged pressure tank, yet when i release pressure from the valve on the tank there is no sign of water. What else could this be? I've tried pumping more air into the pressure tank but that doesn't seem to do anything.

Dave

On 2012-12-15 by Dave

Dan,

Yes, I figured as much. I replaced the switch today. It did look pretty dirty and loose compared to the sparkly new one. Seems to be working now - only time will tell i suppose. I think the pressure in the tank wasn't quite right as the pressure tank itself was installed incorrectly. I've pumped it up to approximately 3 bar.

The shut down issue seemed to happen sporadically. Sometimes you could run it for ages and it would be fine, other times you'd turn on the tap and then it would shut off. One of the contacts on the switch was quite loose, in fact it fell off, so i'm fairly certain it was the switch.

Thanks for your help and your rapid reply. I'll let you know if I have any more issues.

Cheers!

On 2012-12-15 by (mod) -

Dave

A sticking pump pressure control switch probably needs replacement; common causes are debris clogging or burned contacts.

As a separate problem, if the system shuts down when water is running a long time the problem may be with the pump itself - overheating, for example.

Short cycling is more often due to lack of air in the pressure tank.

I'm doing all this arm waving because your question seems to have several disparate symptoms.

On 2012-12-14 by Dave

I've just recently bought a property with tank water and a small jet pump to the house. Recently the pressure switch has been shutting off the pump and I have to give it a friendly nudge to start it again and return pressure to the house. I discovered that it has a vertical pressure tank which had been installed horizontally.

I have since fixed that but it still cuts out when the water is run for a long time (ie watering garden, running washing machine). It was also short cycling and water was surging out of the faucets. What could be the cause of this? Faulty pressure switch?

Do i need to adjust the cut-on/cut-off?

Or is it a lack of air in the pressure tank?

Or something else entirely?

On 2012-10-17 by (mod) -

Rich,
Watch the system pressure if you can during this start top pressure problem.

I suspect a control switch problem, possibly its sensor port is debris clogged.

On 2012-10-15 by Rich

Our well pump system is 11 years old. We have never had any problems with it until recently. We are experiencing random water flow stops (no water flowing for a few seconds) and then the water comes back on at the typical pressure and flow level. I have a Well-Rite 81 gal expansion tank.

Initially, the water stops occurred rather infrequently (every couple days) but lately the frequency has increased to several times a day. What do you think could be casuing the water flow stoppages?

On 2012-07-27 by (mod) -

Charles

If the pump pressure control switch never cuts off the pump AND if the pressure slightly exceeds the set pressure such that we don't think the problem is that the pump can't deliver water at a pressure equal to the CUT-OFF pressure, then most likely there is a problem with the switch or its sensor port - perhaps dirt clogging.

Beware that a water pump will also keep running if it is unable to obtain water from the well in enough quantity or at a rate sufficient to satisfy the pressure switch.

On 2012-07-26 by charles w bradford

pressure swith does not cut off at set pressure even after it reaches setting but pump pumps asif needing water

On 2012-07-24 by Ron

I don't know if my system is working properly or not. We opened only one faucet and timed the on/off of the pump. The pump turned on 6 times and did not turn off the last time in one minute. I wondered if the pressure was too low, so I tested it at the valve stem and the first time got 45lbs and the gage was wet.

The second time, I got 60lbs. and there was more water. I watched the pressure meter that is at the water intake of the tank and with each cycle it drops to about 28lbs. and the pump kicks in, when it gets to about 75lbs. the pump quits running. Does my pressure tank need replacing? Do I have a valve problem?

On 2012-07-18 by (mod) -

Rob,
one way I see a storm later affecting well, pump, and tank behavior, excluding a direct lightning strike that damages the well, casing, piping, pump, or switches, excluding those, is that often when there has been a longer than usual power outage a pre-existing problem like a bad foot valve shows up as loss of water pressure

When we always had power to the pump, as water drained backwards down the well piping into the well and out through a leaky foot valve (or check valve) the pump would cycle back on and recover itself.

But with no power, all water from the pressure tank and piping can drain back into the well. At that point, provided we are talking about an above-ground jet pump, the pump may have lost prime.

On 2012-07-18 by (mod) - causes of a sudden repeat pump cycle right at the cut off point

Anon:

Two things (there are surely others) that cause a sudden repeat pump cycle right at the cut off point are

- burned pressure control contacts or a failing switch

- dirt or debris blocking the pressure sensor port at the switch base

From what you describe, I would replace the switch and make sure to also clean or replace the tubing or pipe nipple that conducts water pressure to the switch mounting base (that contains the pressure sensing port)

Jim:

It sounds to me as if there is a bad check valve in the pump or in the well, perhaps combined with a waterlogged pressure tank.

Jennifer: I'm not so sure of this one, partly we need to know how the well and water piping are routed; Usually a well pump feeds the building and simultaneously the pressure tank; If that's your case and you get no water at the house the problem is obviously before that point - a well piping leak, clog, valve problem.

If your water pressure tank is piped "in series" between the incoming water and water piping to the house such that water has to enter the tank before heading on to the house (an unusual setup) then you could have a stuck tank bladder that prevents water from entering the tank.

On 2012-07-18 by Anonymous

my water pump seems to cycle properly --

the proplem is "Some Times!!" at the end of the cycle as the pump cuts off it immediately restarts for a second or a couple seconds cuts off repeats then will cut off normally --- the water pressure is at the high point on the guage when it gets to the lower cut on pressure it will cut on again ,

but at the end of the run cycle it will the "chatter" or cut off as it should == real problem is sometime the contacts are to gether (but don't conduct enough to start the run cycle then I have no pump and no water

On 2012-07-04 by Jim

I pressured air/water tank to 40psi. The cutoff pressure is at 55psi. When pump cuts off the presure drops from 55 to 40psi in about 15 to 20 seconds & pump cuts back on.

Water supply valve is shut off to house. I hear a hissing from inside pump itself while pressure is decreasing...do I just replace pump or is there someting else I should check first?

On 2012-03-24 by Jennifer

I have plenty of water coming out of the valve at well but no water in the house. Air tank keeps ready at like 10 psi when checked weve added air with the same results. What to do and anyone have amy suggestions?

On 2011-09-13 by Rob L.

After hurricane Irene my pump is short cycling. I had no power for eight days. In a related but seperate issue Irene also killed my ejector pump ($2k+). Could the weather cause damage/short cycling. And what would most likely be the fix?

On 2011-09-01 by (mod) -

Izhar,

When a water pump is not responding properly to the pressure in the system I suspect that the pressure control switch is defective OR (and this is very common) if there is rust, iron, sediment, crud in the water supply, the switch may no longer be sensing pressure in the plumbing system.

A blockage of the pressure switch mounting tube or the very small water orifice (hidden from your view) in the bottom of the pressure control switch sensing diaphraghm can cause the switch to delay starting in response to a drop in water pressure.

Other mechanical problems within the pressure control switch itself could be at fault too.

I'd replace the switch and the mounting tube.

On 2011-08-27 by Izhar

The problem with my booster pump is different from what you have described above...what I am experiencing is that the pump is late to 'kick in' and also late to cut off. I had tried to adjust pressure switch cut in and cut off nuts but the issue still persists (coincidentally my pump is fitted with Square D FSG 2 Pressure switch).

What you think could be the issue? Is it my tank bladder or the pressure switch?

...

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