FAQs on Diagnosing & Fixing Complete Loss of Water Pressure:
Complete loss of water supply at a building, diagnostic FAQs set #2: frequently-asked questions abou complete or periodic-complete loss of building water pressure & flow.
How to determine if the problem is at the water pump, pump controls, pump wiring, or if the problem is the actual water source such as a private well or water storage tank.
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Questions and answers about loss of water pressure posted originally
at NO WATER PRESSURE - be sure to see this lost all water pressure diagnosis and repair advice.
[Click to enlarge any image]
Photo: a typical water pump pressure control switch.
On 2017-07-22 by (mod) - possible dirt clogs controls after piping repairs
Rich
Do you think dirt from the broken water line might have gotten into the system, thus clogging the pressure control switch?
I would not replace the pump before confirming that the switch is sending power to the pump - in that case if the pump has power but doesn't run, it's jammed or shot.
Your water tank comments are spot-on: if the tank's air pre-charge pressure (with pump off and water pressure drained from the system) is above the pump's cut-in pressure then the pump won't turn on. That's where I'd start.
On 2017-07-21 1 by Rich - bad leak in underground water pipe
over at my in-laws house they have a bad leak underground and right there by their water heater they have a whole there and the breakers right there as well
so for the last I believe about we can have two weeks they been shutting off their water pump with their breaker so the water will overflow and go all over the floor well yesterday the water pump wouldn't turn on at all after we turned on the breaker the contacts are touching the
so we drained the tank of a pressure and water and we brought the pressure back up to I believe 38 PSI
and as far as the control switch goes I'm really not too sure that we have gotten the pump to turn on but it immediately shuts off but the pins do not open back up and the gauge stays on 0 on the pump
and change the tubing clean the control and someone is recommended that they need a new pump and I don't know if that's the right way to go first or if they could be just the switch
or did we possibly put too much air in it in the tank
because we're not getting water and the house
like if it does turn on every little bit of search how to turn on by itself and it just shuts right down immediately
I don't know if the guy messed with the Springs itself what what would I do do I try to do buy a new control switch first or does it sound like there's an internal problem with the motor because of turning it off from the breaker so many times it might have faulted the motor itself really
could use some advice on this one because they definitely don't have money to for trial and error
On 2017-06-26 by Anonymous
We had watere this mrnibg, my daughter did a load of laundry and took a shower and 20 minutes later I took a shower , an hour later I went to kitchen to do dishes and the water came out normal and then trickled down now nothing is coming out
On 2017-06-24 by Amanda
I keep loosing pressure once a week, always after the water has not been running for about 8 hours.
When I loose pressure I have to release some pressure from the bladder, remove the switch cover, and replace it. This resets the switch and it will go up to 100 then back down to 50 then back to 100 and settles at about 60. Pressure returns. Why is this happening weekly and how do I fix it?
On 2017-06-19 by Tune - fixing the pump after a power outage
Here is my problem. I am alone, NO HELP, and 73 Yr Senior Woman. So PLEASE explain in My terms. Pump/pressure tank both work Very Good, until there is a Power outage. Then Power returns - but Pressure tank does not turn back ON.
So I have to go under house and Push a Allen Wrench like thing UP and then the Pressure tank starts just fine. I was TOLD new switch needed. I DONE THAT - Power went out yesterday, same ole Problem. Can you tell me WHY this pressure tank does not automatically restart it'self ? THANKS A MILLION, Tune
On 2017-06-14 by Anonymous
My well pump trips the points when water is on all the way or when using washer and try to take shower at same time please help thanks in advance Bill
On 2017-06-12 by (mod) - well runs out of water
John that sounds as if the well is being exhausted, probably because there is a low flow rate of water into the well.
The first supply of water comes from a small volume in the water pressure tank and a larger volume in the well's STATIC HEAD (search our site for that phrase to read details). Once that's exhausted your system may be limited in flow rate by a protection device that prevents the pump from running "dry" (which will damage it).
Also see WELL YIELD IMPROVEMENT at https://inspectapedia.com/water/Well_Yield_Improvement.php
On 2017-06-12 by John
I've got great water pressure for about 30 minutes then it drops way down .If iTurn water off and wait 30 minutes pressure is great again
On 2017-06-12 by (mod) re: signs of a low flow well
John that sounds as if the well is being exhausted, probably because there is a low flow rate of water into the well.
The first supply of water comes from a small volume in the water pressure tank and a larger volume in the well's STATIC HEAD (search our site for that phrase to read details). Once that's exhausted your system may be limited in flow rate by a protection device that prevents the pump from running "dry" (which will damage it).
Also see WELL YIELD IMPROVEMENT at https://inspectapedia.com/water/Well_Yield_Improvement.php
On 2017-06-12 by John
I've got great water pressure for about 30 minutes then it drops way down .If iTurn water off and wait 30 minutes pressure is great again
On 2017-05-30 by Sharee
What do we got to do to get water pressure into our house from the well pump outside. All we got is a trickle of water
On 2017-05-28 (mod) re: reasons for problems with water pressure
Reserve a table listing all of the reasons I have been able to find at this link
https://inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Pressure_Table.php
Let me know how that works for you or if you need to ask for the question
On 2017-05-28 by Dylan
No water pressure at all changed pressure switch checked all the cicurts nothing tripped what else could it be
On 2017-05-06 by (mod) - Primed both tanks and still no water.
Doug:
I'd start by going through the common no-water causes given at https://inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Pressure_Table.php - WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE
On 2017-05-06 by Doug Troth
Primed both tanks and still no water.
On 2017-04-21 by (mod)
Sounds as if the well is running low on water.
This diagnostic table should help: https://inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Pressure_Table.php
On 2017-04-21 by Pamela D. Massey
I was taking a shower and then there was no water. I checked the pressure on the tank and there was no pressure.
I waited about 30 minutes and I heard the pump running and I had water again, but when I checked the pressure on the tank because it wasn't shutting off was 60 and climbing. I was forced to cut the electricity to the pump. I really need your advise on what I should be looking at. Thanks.
On 2017-03-28 by (mod)
Banda:
If you mean the pump itself is heating the water then the pump motor is probably failing and overheating. I would turnoff the pump as there could also be a fire or shock risk.
On 2017-03-28 by Banda
Water and pipe heat with pump and it doesn't pump water further
On 2017-02-28 by Terry Turner
Why water stops going to get water to the tank
On 2017-02-19 by (mod)
Thanks so much for the feedback,Ricky, that discovery of a pebble jamming the check valve open will doubtless help other readers.
On 2017-02-19 by Ricky
I took the check valve out and found a small rock setting inside of it. My best guess is that the rock had been lodged in the valve preventing it from closing. It must have finally worked its way free allowing the valve to work properly hence no water to mother-in-law's home.
I gutted the check valve and replaced it and everything is working again. Disaster averted!
On 2017-02-19 by (mod) - pebble jams check valve open: loss of prime, loss of water pressure
Thanks so much for the feedback,Ricky, that discovery of a pebble jamming the check valve open will doubtless help other readers.
On 2017-02-19 by Ricky
I took the check valve out and found a small rock setting inside of it. My best guess is that the rock had been lodged in the valve preventing it from closing.
It must have finally worked its way free allowing the valve to work properly hence no water to mother-in-law's home. I gutted the check valve and replaced it and everything is working again. Disaster averted!
On 2017-02-12 by (mod)
Ricky, I'm puzzled too - and am thinking about the problem. There could be a leak in the well piping to the new house, but in general I'm unclear how your system works in the first place.
Without a pressure tank serving the new house, IF there is a check valve at the inlet to your main house water system it ought to prevent - as you say - water from flowing back out of your tank to the new house.
So if no water is running in the main house but is on in the new house, and the new house is plumbed by a tee off of the well line from well (enroute to main house) - what turns on the pump to provide water to the new house>? I'd give the installer a call to ask how the system is designed.
On 2017-02-11 by Ricky
One and a half years ago we had a mother in law house put on our property. The well guy spliced into the water line between the main house and the well in order to provide water to the new house.
We are on a private well system. Yesterday she lost water pressure. I checked the main house water pressure and it was fine. I noticed that the only time she had pressure was during the time the pump kicked on.
Once it kicked off she no longer had pressure. Her house does not have a tank at all. I shut off the main house water and turned on a faucet in my mother in laws house (no water flow) and watched the pressure gauge on my tank and it did not drop.
I am not for sure how the system works for her to have water. I have a check valve next to the tank but that should not allow back flow into the water lines which would in turn not provide her house with water however she has had good water pressure ever since the house was put in. I am at a loss on what to check.
Everything seems to work just fine but she doesn't have any water pressure!
On 2017-01-14 0 by (mod) - water line freezing problems & solutions
Marca
I can't diagnose this from your e-text, but I suspect there's a frozen water line. The fact that you had hot water but no cold is often a clue that supply pipes are starting to freeze. SOme plumbers are good at finding and thawing frozen pipes but until you find and fix the cold spot you'll have the problem again.
See https://InspectAPedia.com/plumbing/Pipe_Freeze_Points.php for help finding where the pipes are frozen
also https://InspectAPedia.com/plumbing/Pipe_Freeze_Patterns.php will help with more examples of where pipes freeze
See https://InspectAPedia.com/plumbing/Pipe_Heat_Tapes.php about using heat tapes
On 2017-01-14 by marca
only had hot water comeing well had two plumber out two different answers now have no water at all but we had very cold wheater now no water all dont know what to do
On 2016-11-04 by Chelsea
ok i live in the country on well water and of a morning the washer works but of a night it wont even start what could the problem be
On 2016-10-17 by Beth
While the washing machine is filling up with water & if your taking a shower the water stops working.
On 2016-10-15 by William hurt
I plugged in my dryer when I did some lights went out and my well stopped
On 2016-07-18 by (mod)
Perhaps a slow leaking check valve or foot valve.
On 2016-07-18 by Jody
our pump works fine for about two weeks and then we lose pressure and pump won't turn we recalibrate the pump it works for about two weeks and then it stops. why is it working only for about two weeks at a time?
On 2016-07-15 by (mod)
... if the pump control switch is closing and turning on the pump then the switch isn't the problem. However, sandpapering the pump pressure control switch relay contacts isn't a durable repair.
I suspect either reduced pump output - e.g. a damaged impeller or a leak in well piping - or clogged piping.
On 2016-07-15 by Michelle
Our well is 14 years old and we have always had great water pressure but this summer (past 2 maths or so) every time we turn on the water hose outside we lose water in the house. Any idea So?
(Dec 11, 2014) Margie said:
There is no water coming into the house. The pump is running but shows 0 PSI
(Dec 1, 2015) Chris Gagnon said:
Hello! First time well owner here. Have a house from the 80's, bought it ten years ago. Old style well, 30" dia., concrete casing, well pump at bottom, pressure switch and gauge are in the well, at the top of the casing.
Air tank, filters, and water NEUTRALIZER,not softener, are in the garage where the pipe comes out of my slab. this morning, the Wife and I noticed a drop in pressure.
Happens sometimes, I just go change the filters. Well, didn't have any filters, so when I got home from work, I bypassed the filters(built in feature of the GE filters)until after my shower when I was going to get more,and had a great shower.
One hour later, the Wife comes home....and NO WATER IS ISSUING FROM THE VALVES!!! All of a sudden, water started flowing, but really weak.
Went and popped the cover on the well, and shone a flashlight down there.
Somehow, my well has dropped about 20'. I can see the old water level on the side of the casing(it was still wet. Pump is running constantly, even with the feed valve from the pump to the house shut off.
I cannot tell if all the action at the bottom of the well is the pump vibrating the water, or if a relief valve is blowing off. I have no clue on the brand of pump.
So, I shut off power, and am going to get new filter cartridges.
Even if the pressure switch was bad and making my pump run constantly, why would my well be so low? the water should just be circulating back into the well, right? Any help you can give me is GREATLY appreciated.
Margie
Watch out: Shut off the pump right away to reduce the risk of ruining it. Running a water pump when no water is flowing through it can damage the pump's impeller assembly, internal bearings, or other parts.
When you've turned off the water pump please see the diagnostics at
or at
WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE
and let us know if questions remain.
Sometimes our water pressure drops to zero - no water flows, later the pump turns on and we have water again. What's going on? - Anon 20 June 2015
I'd start by checking for a debris-clogged pressure control switch sensor. If the water pressure is at zero and the pump is not runing, try tapping on the pressure control box cover. If the pump starts the switch is sticking.
Even if the pump doesn't start the switch may not be sensing water pressure if rust or debris has clogged its sensor port or the mounting tube that conducts water pressure to the switch.
After a power loss that lasted half a day [my neighbor] ran out of water. When power I was restored the water pressure was only about that of pouring water and would the volume of water rapidly dropped.
I reached down to her water tank and could easily tell it was empty.
I connected a water hose to her outdoor spigot, unplugged the pump and allowed the water to fill her tank. The tank only filled about a quarter full. I opened a faucet to try to allow air to leave the system the tank did not fill any further.
The water pressure was at normal flow after I disconnected the hose. The pressure gauge showed a drop from 60 to 40, with about a minute for recovery to 60. Even though the tank was only a quarter full I thought the problem was resolved only to get a call a few hours later that there was no pressure again
. The tank was empty, with no signs of leaking. Water is filling the tank, it is slow and I am not sure what pressure the system might build as before it only filled to a quarter full.
She has what appears to be a submersible well a hundred feet from the
well house. A pipe about 8-10 inches in diameter with a cap bolted
on, there is wiring on one side of the pipe.
In the well house (below grade) she has a blue tank about 18-24 inches
in diameter and a little over four feet tall.
A pipe comes through the side of the concrete that tees with the pipe that comes up from the side of the bottom of the tank. Just above the tee is the pressure gauge and then the pressure control switch. On the top of the tank is a plug( and I do have teflon tape if I need to remove it).
I have a few ideas from looking at your website but don't want to screw anything up so I decided I should email and see what you think.
Reply:
We were puzzled too. Sometimes a power loss leads to total pressure loss
that leads to disclosing a pre-existing defect like crud inside of a
pump impeller, a failing foot valve (loses prime in the well), or a
failing pressure control. Also some power outages include an
electrical surge or even a lightning strike that can damage or destroy
a pump.
But we recommend that you first look for the simplest solution that does not require multiple odd failures to have by chance occurred at once.
Remember that a water pressure tank is never "full" - as it needs to contain an air charge.
First be sure you have an accurate picture of what was happening before the power outage.
Then start by reviewing the normal pump sequence operation and comparing it with what's happening at this home.
Follow up from the reader explained that only 120V was being delivered to a 240V submersible pump because one fuse of a pair had blown. -- This question is answered and explained more fully
at WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR
Thanks to reader EK Woodard for these details.
Also see WATER PUMP PRIMING PROCEDURE
Hi,after a power outage that lasted the entire day, I now have no water at all. I'm new to all of this, so please bear with me.
Although, thanks to your very informative site I'm learning. I have a single line jet pump and am not sure what the depth of the well is. I tried to re prime with no success, so had a well person check it out. He spent over an hour adding water, turning the pump on and off, gradually bringing the water and pressure back up to the top.
Right as he was ready to give up it worked, and water was flowing strong out of the faucet. It didn't last long though, and he said there must be a crack or hole in the piping of the well, which is letting air in.
What I don't understand is I had water before the power outage with a supposed cracked or damaged pipe. So since he got the water back up to the top and flowing, why wouldn't it continue and keep the prime since it was before?
He advised that since the well is older (25 years) and the cost to find out what is wrong with it would be $1500 plus the cost of repair, that I would be better off having a new well dug, which is $3800.
I looked into claiming it on my insurance, but was told it had to be caused from a lightning strike, not just a power outage. Is it a possibility that whatever is wrong could have been caused by lightning, and if so, how could it be confirmed? - Valora
Indeed, Valora, a lightning hit can burn up electrical wiring, controls, pumps, and can even damage plumbing pipes.
But your description sounds as if there was a loss of prime and difficulty re-priming the pump. If the water system has a bad foot valve (located on the bottom of well piping) and power stays off for some time, you are more likely to lose well prime. The proper repair is to pull the well piping and replace the foot valve.
The reason this problem shows up after a power loss is that even though the foot valve may have been leaking for some time, as long as you had electrical power, when the foot valve leaked the dropping pressure at the water tank caused the pump to turn on by itself, restoring water, pressure in the water tank, and prime before so much water was lost that the pump couldn't recover by itself.
But when power was lost for hours, so much water drained back into the well that the well could not re-prime itself when it started again.
See WELL PUMP PRIMING PROCEDURE and also WELL PIPING CHECK VALVES and WELL PIPING FOOT VALVES
(Aug 24, 2014) Alice Stephens said:
got up this morin with no water my pump has a box on the side with two different deals in it but my points is not kicking in right what would cause this I replaced the box on the side with a new one and when we tried to restart it and when we did smoke came out of the box on the side what would cause this
Alice
TURN OFF ELECTRICAL POWER to the pump circuit immediately if you havent' already.
From what you describe I fear either an unsafe electrical wiring error or short circuit or a seized pump motor.
we had a lightning strike last night and lost power to the pump. Replaced the pressure switch which was damaged and now the well is pumping a lot of sand in with the water??? - Barb 5/17/12
Barb that's a tough one - how might a lightning strike generate sand pickup in well water?
If the water level in the well has dropped, or if the well casing has become damaged, those could explain the phenomenon.
Presuming we're talking about an in-well submersible pump, I figure if the pump itself or its wiring had taken a hit - which often happens with lightning strikes around wells, either the pump would stop entirely, or if it's getting low voltage or wiring is partly grounded it may be pumping, but more slowly or weakly than normal.
Try flushing everything out and running the system again; let us know if water pressure and pump behavior are normal.
Next will be to investigate the well and well casing themselves. On occasion a severe lightning strike might damage the well casing itself - or damage may have already been present but not recognized. A rust hole or split in a well casing can open wide enough to begin to add sand and debris to the water supply.
In the well that served our lab in New York we had excellent water quantity and quality from the time the well was installed in the 1920's until the 1980's when a road crew decided to move the highway. Local blasting near our well appeared to amend the underground rock cracks and crevices such that our well water suddenly contained debris from the day of blasting onwards to the present.
Gone from home for a few days turned pump on at fuse box ran 2 minutes then shut off will not come on - Dave
Dave: re "gone from home for a few days turned pump on at fuse box ran 2 minutes then shut off will not come on"
See WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE for a comprehensive list of things to check when you've lost water pressure, including well pump troubles. By your message alone, and just guessing, as so little information is provided, I'd check things in this order:
Watch out: for electrocution hazards when checking electrical wiring and devices. If you lack training and equipment have those checks made by a professional.
Watch out: often when a pump is turned OFF for a few days we discover a pre-existing problem that had been covered-up, namely a bad foot valve or check valve that allows water to slowly leak out of the pressure tank and back into the well.
As long as the pump power is turned on, when the leak causes pressure to drop below the cut-in point the pump cycles on and re pressurizes the water system and so the pump never loses prime.
But when power to the well pump is left off long enough, a slow leak can lose all of the water above ground (back into the well) and you lose prime.
So that's where I'd start looking.
I have a well, and this morning was taking a shower when we lost all water pressure in the middle of the shower. There was no water running in the rest of the house, so no pressure was being taken from the shower.. this had never happened. In the past, when you ran water, flushed the toilet or took a shower at the same time the water pressure went down.
We turned up the pressure coming into the house on the water tank to try to "fix" the situation. I'm worried we may need a new pump. Any suggestions in which way to turn? - Amy
Amy, with no other information but that in your message it sounds as if there may be trouble with the well itself (running out of water), the well pump, or the pump controls.
Watch out: Don't just turn up the pump pressure control switch settings if your system has lost water pressure. Turning up pressure at the pressure control switch will not fix having run out of water and it can make the problem worse. For example, if you set the cut-off pressure higher than the pump can achieve then the pump motor may just keep running on until it burns up.
It is more important to first figure out why you lost water pressure. When the cause is diagnosed we'll know the proper repair needed.
Take a look at WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE as a starting point for figuring out what's wrong by looking a bit further into more clues. Let me know what you find or what specific questions arise and we'll be glad to research and comment further.
(Sept 8, 2014) Chris said:
We lost all water pressure while running the washing machine. We replaced the tank/power supply switches(both 20yrs old) and it worked for a few hours. Could use showers, faucets, dishwasher and did 1 load of laundry. Started a 2nd load of laundry and lost all water pressure again. We have a private artesian well. What else could we try. Thanks
Chris
Is it really an artesian well? If so you might want to start by confirming that the well is continuing to push water to the surface on its own. Even then, you'll want to measure the well's flow rate. It's possible that the flow had declined.
Also some well pump switches will shut down the pump if the switch thinks the pump is running dry.
(Dec 1, 2014) Anonymous said:
have a deep well submerged pump water turned nasty lost pressure now I have no water.replaced breakers and pressure switch and still have no water their is power going to pump and switch don't what to do now
Anon
An experienced well-pump plumber can perform some tests to determine if the motor is drawing normal current or not -which is a clue about whether the pump needs to be pulled and replaced. But the "water turned nasty" suggests that the well may have been pumped dry. If so and if it recovers then we've got an idea of the problem: reduced well recovery rate.
Deirdre said:
We are having a problem with water flow in several bathrooms. While taking a shower, the water will slow down to a dribble, or get cold in my daughter's shower. In my son's bathroom, the water starts off with a normal flow, then reduces to a trickle.
In our master shower, the rain shower head starts off normal then trickles. Last night I went to take a bath and there was no water coming from the hot water faucet. It is random in all bathrooms. I don't see how it can be a valve problem since it is happening in three separate showers in the house, plus our tub. Where do we start?
Deidre
At the ARTICLE INDEX at the end of this article see WATER PRESSURE VARIATION CAUSES
If the problem seems random or intermittent check for a debris clogged pressure switch or a well with a poor flow rate
I have an issue with my well. I have my pressure switch set to cut in at 50psi and cut out at 70psi. Its been this way for years. I run my house and an irrigation system and in the past never had a problem. The last I knew my well recovery was more than 16gpm. I have a lot of iron an have two filtration systems, one for the domestic water in the house and one for the irrigation system.
This year I'm having a problem maintaining pressure when the irrigation system is running. In the past the well maintained a constant 50 to 60 psi flow. Now it drops to as little as 10psi. I thought I had a pump and or yield problem. I bypassed all my filters and ran a facet wide open, approx 7gal/min for an hour and a half. Everything performed normally.
The pump kicked in at 50 psi and off at 70 psi. It pumped faster than the depletion rate. Now the puzzling part. I turned on my irrigation system and about 20 minutes in the pressure dropped below 30psi and would not build back up unless I turned the system off. At the time that I checked the water was metering under .5gal/minute. I'm perplexed. I would assume if the issue was pump or yield related I would have had a problem when I bypassed all the filters. Does anyone have a logical explanation for this. Thank you. - Tony
Tony from what you've said I wonder if your pressure sensor switch or its mounting tube are clogged with iron deposits? If the pressure control switch cannot accurately and quickly sense changes in pressure at its mounting point the pump behaviour may become erratic or even stop entirely. Try replacing the switch and cleaning or replacing its mounting tubing, and while you're at it look into those openings for evidence of clogging and let me know what you see (or send along a photo).
My pump is 20+ years old, however it's been working fine. I recently replaced the pressure switch and it began working again. Tis past Saturday I discovered a hole in one pipe and I replaced the galvanised pipe and PVC. Again it worked fine. The next day the pump will not start and the zone solenoid was warm for the zone that was to be on. I'm at a loss. - Bernie
Bernie: hole in the pipe ... was this a buried pipe? I wonder if dirt can have entered the system and plugged the pressure control switch. Try changing the switch and also checking its mounting tube for blockage.
water does not work how do i test pressure switch - Doug
Doug: under the article series titled WATER PUMP REPAIR GUIDE see these articles on installing, diagnosing, and repairing the pump pressure control switch:
I have a private well 365' deep submersible pump approximately 9 yrs old. woke up this morning and have no water at all i replaced the pressure switch a few months ago.
There seems to be power going into the switch. Is there any way to tell if the pump is bad with out having to pull it completely out? - Joe 6/27/12
Joe, check the current draw using a clamp on ammeter to see what the pump is doing. That can detect a motor that is seizing. If the pump impeller is broken or damaged, the motor may run without being loaded - no unusual current draw; If it draws zip you've got an open wire; if there is no resistance between the wires they're shorted -
Watch out: to avoid death by electrocution or shorting and burning something up, some of these tests must be done with power off.
I have an odd one for you.
I used to get a lot of taps on my chimney, so I grounded it with a utilities style grounding triangle – tied to the main on the house – seemed to solve the problem.
Sunday before july 4th I was in the basement with my bare foot on the concrete floor, on my computer.
We got tapped again, I yelled “YEOOOOWCH!” and then couldn’t breath in for a while, I was locked up. It felt like my mouse exploded in my hand. Then I was able to breathe again, with no apparent permanent effects – save feeling like I’d been pulling a semi truck all day.
Went upstairs and the wife heard the boom, but it was so close she didn’t hear me yell at all. Several battery backUPS were toasted. Both washing machines – oddly enough both wanted to fill and drain at the same time – although one wanted to spin too, and would not shut off until smoke came out of it. Half the halogen lights in the kitchen wouldn’t come on, the other half would not shut off?
And my well went dry.
That’s the one the insurance company won’t cover – but I had 65# of pressure before the tap – and now have none. The pump draws appropriately, no break in the water lines at all, you can't hear the well filling now - like you used to. The water has literally run out of the well – and it’s over 300 feet deep!
Anyway, I’m looking for information on others who may have had well problems after being tapped. Even if they won’t cover it I’d damned sure like to prove to them that it does happen. What other explanation would cause a 30 gal/min well to go dry overnight?
Got time to help with this? - Brent 7/7/2012
Watch out: apparently Brent you're dealing with an electrical shock hazard and possible death by electrocution.
Brent, certainly improper electrical grounding, improper lightning protection installation, shorts and shocks can kill you as well as damaging your equipment, including a pump relay, motor, even the well casing itself.
If a lightning hit knocked out your well pump controls, wiring, pump motor, or even split the well casing, any of those problems would mean that you've lost water completely at your building. A shorted well pump wire could have a similar effect. See WATER PUMP WIRING REPAIR
Also see BANGING BOOMING NOISE DIAGNOSIS & CURE
Just replaced old water pump and pressure tank (& pipes) with new pump (no more pressure tank)and also new circuit box and breakers.
All has worked well for a couple weeks. This AM no water- the deep well switch had tripped, and the storage tank was nearly empty.
So something caused the breakers to trip, shutting off well pump. After a reset, well pump came on, and is now filling tank again.
Question: what would cause it to trip? we did not have a larger than normal electricity drain, nor were we using extra amount of water.
Is the new stuff putting a drain or something on the older stuff? (the deep pump and its lines?)
Any ideas appreciated! - BTP 7/22/12
Follow up- spoke with plumber- he thinks it is likely the deep pump circuit box-'pumptech'
if I reset- it will run for a few minutes and shut off-
Sadly- its sunday and where i live the one place that might carry replacement is closed.
Any tricks or things to try? Or is it likely the circuit board is simply fried?
Its probably 25 to 20 years old
Gary, I'd start by replacing the questionable control switch. You might also check the current draw of the pump to see if you can detect a bad pump motor or a wiring short.
Watch out: there are death by electrocution hazards when messing with electrical wiring.
My water is not coming out of the taps i am on a well , - Theresa
Theresa, take a look at WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE for a list of no-water diagnostics
(Apr 3, 2014) michelle said:
when we woke up this am we had no water anywhere in our house or at our well pump. my husband just cleaned the contacts at the pressure tank and now we have water in the house but still no water coming out of well spicket. Any suggestions on why this would occur?
Michelle. If there is water in the building, then it's clear that not having water at an outdoor spigot is not likely to be due to the earlier no-water condition. Check for a shutoff valve that's remained closed; another possibility, seems less likely to me, is a debris clog in the piping.
Also look for a clogged water filter.
Follow the water piping. I'll bet you will see that the outside hose spigot is taken off of a water supply line ahead of other water treatment equpment such as a filter, water softener, or water conditioner.
(Apr 20, 2014) Jesse Oatrander said:
Inherited a house with a well system about a year ago. Pump was frozen (the motor, it was summer time) gut it to run and start pumping water to the house. Had excellent pressure. Had to give up during the winter but started again this summer.
When I I was preparing to get the system running again this spring I broke the line off of the air volume control valve and now have no pressure to the house.. Well fluxing between 8-12 psi. Replaced valve, but cannot find tubing to replace the line to the pump, but from what I understand this should not be causing the issue.
Only thing that had changed from what I can see is the avc line. Also multiple people suggesting to replace pressure switch, but the pump is turning on though some are saying it actually creates the pressure as well, but it looks to me like a check switch.. Bellow threshold. Turn on. Above. Turn off type deal.
Jesse,
The air volume control "line" or tubing, depending on just what we're talking about, if it failed, would probably show up as loss of air charge in the pressure tank and short cycling pump on and off operation - that in turn could of course burn up a pump or its pressure control switch.
The pump pressure control switch turns the pump on and off - if the pump runs but you have no water pressure then you need to go back to one of these two articles in the ARTICLE INDEX given at the end of this article:
WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR
WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE
(May 25, 2014) Amy said:
Woke up to water having a very earthy smell. Water pressure stopped working. Newer softener system and AIO tank, 1 year old.
Had service man look at and he found both pipes to be clogged with what looked like shredded black plastic with dirt around it? Said he has never seen before. He got everything working again. One day later, water pressure stopped again.
A trickle is coming out of faucets? Any suggestions on who to call to resolve problem?
Amy:
Sorry to say this sounds as if plastic components somewhere are being shredded, OR this is a new piping installation that left plastic debris in the supply piping.
If it's an older system I'd look for trouble inside the well pump.
If it's a problem on hot water only I'd look for a failing plastic dip tube in a water heater tank.
The dirt description, however, suggests a damaged well casing that's letting debris into the well. For that diagnosis you need a well company who can use a camera to inspect the well casing.
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Continue reading at WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.
Or see NO WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSTIC FAQs-3 - more-recently-posted questions and answers about total loss of water pressure
NO WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSTIC FAQs-2 at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.
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