Guide to Oil-Fired Hot Water Heaters - Inspection, Diagnosis, & Repair
InspectAPedia® -
Oil fired Hot Water heaters: how to inspect, test, adjust, repair
How to choose among types of hot water heaters
Guide to inspection of electric water heaters
No Hot water? how to get more hot water flow, quantity, performance from your water heater
Our site offers impartial, unbiased advice without conflicts of interest.
We will block advertisements which we discover or readers inform us are associated with bad business practices,
false-advertising, or junk science. Our contact info is at
InspectAPedia.com/appointment.htm.
This collection of articles on oil hot water heat will answer most questions about oil-fired water heaters
as well as many other building plumbing system inspection or defect topics.
This page contains links to in-depth articles on inspecting, testing, and repairing problems residential hot water heaters of all types, including their parts, controls, and alternative sources for hot water as well as tips for improving hot water temperature, hot water pressure, and hot water quantity. Reproduction of this web page electronically at other websites is prohibited.
Our photo at page top shows an oil fired hot water system with the main components easily available, and with evidence of an oil burner operating problem.
Inspection, Diagnostic, & Repair Guide to Electric Hot Water Heaters
How do we identify an oil-fired water heater?
The sketch at left shows the basic components of an oil-fired residential hot water heater and is provided courtesy of Carson Dunlop. It's easy to identify an oil-fired water heater:
An oil burner will be mounted (usually) near the bottom of the hot water tank, fed by home heating oil from a local above ground or buried oil tank. See OIL BURNERS and OIL BURNER NOISE SMOKE ODORS
A flue vent connector or "stack pipe" will leave the top or upper rear side of the water tank and continue on into a chimney (or directly outside if your water heater is a "direct-vent" or "power vent" system. See CHIMNEY INSPECTION DIAGNOSIS REPAIR and see DRAFT REGULATORS - barometric dampers.
Two water pipes will be connected to the water heater: cold-water in, and hot water out. The hot water tank shutoff valve is normally installed only on the cold water supply line.
A pressure and temperature relief valve should be installed right on the water heater, coming off of the tank top or upper area of its side. See Relief Valves - TP Valves for details.
But watch out: sometimes an electric water heater is installed as an additional or backup hot water source, so you'll also want to see if you have other hot water heating equipment installed, such as a Tankless Coil for Hot Water. In our photo below at left an oil-fired water heater and an indirect-fired water heater are installed in tandem.
Here are a few things to check on your oil-fired water heater:
(WARNING: This is an INCOMPLE LIST and important water heater inspection topics may be omitted as we're working on this section. If you have comments, questions, suggestions, Contact Us.)
Check the pressure and temperature relief valve on your water heater: look for evidence of corrosion, leaks, improper installation, etc. A missing, modified, blocked, or leaky pressure relief valve is extremely dangerous and can lead to a catastrophic BLEVE boiling liquid vapor explosion that can cause severe damage or even fatalities at a building. See Relief Valves - TP Valves
Look for evidence of leaks in the hot water tank, or mechanical damage, or improper installation. For example most water heaters are intended to be installed in a vertical position. Installing a hot water tank horizontally or in a hole in a crawl space is likely to cause early failure of the heater, violate the manufacturer's guidelines, and may be dangerous.
In our photo at left that puddle on the floor needs investigation.
Look for the draft regulator/barometric damper. If your conventional oil fired water heater does not have its own, personal draft regulator installed, it is impossible for the heater to have been tuned for optimum performance - you may be wasting money and heating oil. See DRAFT REGULATORS - barometric dampers
Look for insulation that has been improperly added to the water tank - it may be unsafe. See Insulate Hot Water Tank?
Look for signs of improper oil burner operation: such as sooting, draft problems, or back-pressure burns around the oil burner or around the combustion chamber inspection port.
Soot blowing out of the barometric damper or flue pipe, soot and burn marks, oil leaks, stumbling, rumbling, noisy oil burners, odors, are examples of improper oil burner operation that need prompt service.
Our page top photo and our photo at left show examples of improper oil burner operation on an oil fired water heater: both systems show soot blow-out at the water heater's combustion chamber inspection port. Our photo at left also shows that the discharge tube is missing from the relief valve - a safety concern.
Often these soot marks are a symptom of excessive pressure or "back pressure" inside the combustion chamber.
This problem can be caused by an oil fired water heater that is way past due for cleaning (soot blocks the exhaust flue), by a blocked chimney, by improper draft regulator adjustment, or other defects.
Check the hot water piping and control valves connected to the water heater for leaks, support, and for proper location of shutoff valves. An improperly installed shutoff valve on a water heater can be very dangerous, risking an explosion. Usually the "hot water tank shutoff valve" is installed only on the cold water pipe coming into the water tank. There should be no shutoff valve installed on the hot water line leaving the water tank.
Check for leaks at the water heater drain valve. Most water heater manufacturers recommend that their water tank be drained periodically. This process will help remove sludge and debris or mineral deposits that may have accumulated at the bottom of the water heater tank. Removing this debris can extend the life of the hot water tank, especially where electric and gas fired water heaters are involved. But since few people remember to open and drain the tank it may be that the drain valve does not open easily, or worse, it won't close.
Tips On Draining the Oil-Fired Water Heater Tank: Don't try opening the hot water tank drain valve without first noting these warnings and tips:
The water heater heat source should be turned off and the water tank cooled down (or run hot water out through building fixtures) before attempting to drain the tank - there can be a serious scalding hazard otherwise
You can connect a garden hose to drain the water heater tank to a suitable destination
If it's a Sunday - you may have trouble obtaining spare parts or emergency plumbing service if a problem occurs
Be sure to have a spare garden hose cap to install over the end of the drain valve in case it drips and won't shut off completely
If you have trouble turning the water heater tank drain valve to open it - don't force it - if break off the valve stem you may have a leak that you cannot shut off except by turning off cold water supply to the water heater
After opening the heater drain valve, if you forgot to turn off the cold water supply coming into the water heater, you may find that water just shoots out of the drain forever - you'll need to turn off the cold water supply to the water heater.
You will probably need to open a nearby hot water tap to let air into the plumbing system and through it into the water heater tank so that water can drain out at the tank's bottom. We don't recommend opening the pressure/temperature relief valve for this purpose as you may find that the TP valve won't shut successfully afterwards.
If plastic water piping is installed, such as polybutylene water supply piping, it should be at least 18" from the water heater.
Vacuum relief valves are required at water heaters in some communities, to protect against collapse of the water storage tank and to prevent backup of hot water into the cold water piping should cold water pressure drop. Here is Carson Dunlop's sketch of a vacuum relief valve.
A Guide to Oil Fired Water Heater Controls & Operation
The principal controls on an oil fired water heater include the following water tank and oil burner parts and controls:
BOILER CONTROLS & SWITCHES (many controls on oil fired heating boilers are the same on oil fired water heaters)
Aquastat Functions - simple aquastats may be used as upper and lower limit controls on oil fired water heaters
Circulator Pumps & Relays - may be used if the water heater is connected to a continuous hot water loop plumbing system or in (more rare) cases where an oil fired water heater is being used as a building area heating device (usually not code-approved)
Limit Switches, Boilers simple aquastats may be used as upper and lower limit controls on oil fired water heaters
Mixing Valves - used to permit keeping the water heater at high temperature (more total hot water will be available) without risking scalding the building occupants
Stack Relay Switch - an older safety switch used to turn off the oil burner if successful burner flame ignition does not occur
Check the Sacrificial Anode & Dip Tube of Your Oil Fired Water Heater Tank
The dip tube on many water heaters functions as a sacrificial anode, as we show here. By constructing the dip tube of a metal which is more readily corroded than the steel of a steel hot water tank, the anode protects the hot water tank from early failure due to corrosion. Here Carson Dunlop's sketch shows the location of the sacrificial anode on an electric water heater.
If your water supply happens to be highly conductive or corrosive (see WATER TESTING GUIDE) then the dip tub/sacrificial anode in the water tank may indeed corrode away until it leaks (dropping the hot water temperature) or disappears entirely.
If your hot water smells like rotten eggs, you should definitely check the condition of the sacrificial anode on the hot water heater, no matter what kind of water tank you've got installed.
For details of how to inspect or replace the sacrificial anode or dip-tube on a water heater, please see Water Heater Anodes & Dip Tubes
Check the Oil-Fired Hot Water Tank Temperature and Pressure Safety Relief Valve
Critique, contributions wanted: Contact Us to suggest corrections or additions to articles at this website, and if you wish, to receive online listing and credit as a contributor. Particular thanks are due to the many experts and also consumers who read and critique technical articles at InspectAPedia.com.
Additional technical contributors & reference sources for this article are listed below.
Use links just below or at the left of each page to navigate this document or to view other topics at this website. Green links show where you are in our document or website.
Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, Carson Dunlop, Associates, Toronto, for permission to use illustrations from their publication, The Illustrated Home which illustrates construction details and building components. Carson Dunlop provides home inspection education, publications, report writing materials, and home inspection services. Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors.
More Information on Building Diagnostic Inspections and Repairs
...
InspectAPedia® Home & Site Map - Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, Repair, & Problem Prevention Advice: In-depth research & advice on diagnosing, testing, correcting, & preventing building defects & indoor environmental hazards. Unbiased information, no conflicts of interest.
The Mold Information Center: What to Do About Mold in Buildings, When and How to Inspect for Mold, Clean Up Mold, or Avoid Mold Problems
Environmental Inspection, Testing, & Diagnosis On-Site IAQ, Gas, Air Testing, Mold Investigation, Sick Building Diagnosis, Lab Services, & Remediation Plan Preparation - indoor air quality testing, problem source determination, supporting lab work, written remediation plan addressing removal of environmental and other hazards and prevention of their recurrence.