InspectAPedia.com InspectAPedia®
Google
InspectAPedia
 

Free Encyclopedia of Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, Repair

Ask a Question or Search InspectAPedia

  • HOME
  • AIR CONDITIONING
  • DAMAGE ASSESSMENT
  • ELECTRICAL
  • EXTERIORS
  • HEATING
  • HOME INSPECTION
  • INTERIORS
  • PLUMBING
  • ROOFING
  • SEPTIC SYSTEMS
  • STRUCTURE
  • WATER SUPPLY
  • ENERGY SAVINGS
  • ENVIRONMENT
  • INDOOR AIR IAQ
  • INSULATION
  • MOLD INSPECT TEST REMOVE
  • NOISE
  • ODORS
  • SOLAR ENERGY
  • VENTILATION
  • EXPERTS DIRECTORY
  • CONTACT US



InspectAPedia ® Home

HEATING SYSTEMS

AFUE DEFINITION, RATINGS
AGE of CHIMNEYS & FIREPLACES
AGE of AIR CONDITIONERS & HEAT PUMPS
AGE of HEATERS, BOILERS, FURNACES
AGE of WATER HEATERS
AIR CONDITIONING & HEAT PUMP SYSTEMS
AIR FILTERS for HVAC SYSTEMS
AIR FLOW MEASUREMENT CFM
AIR HANDLER / BLOWER UNITS
AIRBOUND HEAT SYSTEM REPAIRS
ANODES & DIP TUBES on WATER HEATERS
ANTIFREEZE for BOILERS
ANTI SCALD VALVES
APPLIANCE EFFICIENCY RATINGS
ASBESTOS IDENTIFICATION IN buildings

BACKDRAFTING HEATING EQUIPMENT
BACKFLOW PREVENTER VALVE, HEATING SYS
BACKFLOW PREVENTER, HEATER WATER FEEDER
BACKUP HEAT for HEAT PUMPS
BAROMETRIC DAMPERS
BIOGAS PRODUCTION & USE
BLEVE EXPLOSIONS
BLOWER FAN CONTINUOUS OPERATION
BLOWER FAN OPERATION & TESTING
BLUE vs YELLOW COMBUSTION FLAMES
BLUERAY Recall
BOILERS, HEATING
BOILER CHEMICAL TREATMENTS
BOILER COMPONENTS & PARTS
BOILER CONTROLS & SWITCHES
BOILER LEAKS CORROSION STAINS
BOILER LEAKS, HOW TO LOCATE
BOILER NOISE SMOKE ODORS
BOILER OPERATING PROBLEMS
BOILER OPERATION DETAILS
BOILER PRESSURE & TEMPERATURE SETTINGS

CAPACITORS for HARD STARTING MOTORS
CARBON DIOXIDE - CO2
CARBON MONOXIDE - CO
CARBON MONOXIDE WARNING
CHIMNEY INSPECTION DIAGNOSIS REPAIR
CHIMNEYS & Flues - Asbestos Transite Pipe
COOL OFF HEAT, Thermostat Switch
COMBUSTION AIR
COMBUSTION AIR for TIGHT buildings
COMBUSTION GASES & PARTICLE HAZARDS
COMBUSTION PRODUCTS & IAQ
COMPLETE COMBUSTION, Stoichiometric
CONDENSING BOILERS/FURNACES
CONDENSING BOILERS/FURNACES DAMAGE
CONVECTOR HEATERS - HYDRONIC COILS
CREOSOTE FIRE HAZARDS
Curved Brick Chimneys - Sulphation

DEFINITION of Heating & Cooling Terms
DIAGNOSE & FIX AIR CONDITIONER / HEAT PUMP
DIAGNOSE & FIX HEATING PROBLEMS-BOILER
DIAGNOSE & FIX HEATING PROBLEMS-FURNACE
DIRECT VENTS / SIDE WALL VENTS
DIRECTORY of OIL TANK EXPERTS
DRAFT HOODS - gas fired
DRAFT MEASUREMENT, CHIMNEYS & FLUES
DRAFT REGULATORS, DAMPERS, BOOSTERS
DUCT SYSTEM & DUCT DEFECTS
DUST, HVAC CONTAMINATION STUDY
DUST SAMPLING PROCEDURE

ELECTRIC HEAT, DIAGNOSIS, REPAIR
ELECTRIC MOTOR DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE
ELECTRIC MOTOR OVERLOAD RESET SWITCH
ELECTRICAL POWER SWITCH FOR HEAT
EVAPORATIVE COOLING SYSTEMS

FAN, AIR HANDLER BLOWER UNIT
FAN AUTO ON Thermostat Switch
FAN, COMPRESSOR/CONDENSER UNIT
FAN CONVECTOR HEATERS - HYDRONIC COILS
FAN LIMIT SWITCH
FAN NOISES
FILTERS, AIR for HVAC SYSTEMS
FILTERS, OIL on HEATING EQUIPMENT
FIRE SAFETY CONTROLS
FIREPLACES & HEARTHS
FLAME COLOR, BLUE vs YELLOW COMBUSTION
FLOODED HEATING EQUIPMENT REPAIR
FLOODED WATER HEATER REPAIR
FLUE VENT CONNECTORS
FREEZE-PROOF A BUILDING
FUEL OIL TYPES & CHARACTERISTICS
FUEL UNIT, HEATING OIL PUMPS
FURNACES, HEATING
FURNACE CONTROLS & SWITCHES
FURNACE EFFICIENCY, HIGH vs MID
FURNACE HEAT EXCHANGER LEAKS
FURNACE OPERATION DETAILS
FURNACE OPERATING TEMPERATURES

GALVANIC SCALE & METAL CORROSION
GAS BURNER Flame & Noise Defects
GAS FIRED WATER HEATERS
GAS PIPING, VALVES, CONTROLS
GAUGES ON HEATING EQUIPMENT
GEOTHERMAL HEATING SYSTEMS

HEAT EXCHANGER LEAK TEST
HEAT LOSS in BUILDINGS
HEAT LOSS DETECTION TOOLS
HEAT LOSS INDICATORS
HEAT LOSS PREVENTION PRIORITIES
HEAT LOSS R U & K VALUE CALCULATION
HEAT TAPES & CABLES on Roofs for Ice Dams
HEATING COST FUEL & BTU Cost Table
HEATING COST SAVINGS METHODS
HEATING LOSS DIAGNOSIS-BOILERS
HEATING LOSS DIAGNOSIS-FURNACES
HEATING OIL CLOUD WAX GEL POINT
HEATING OIL EXPOSURE HAZARDS, LIMITS
HEATING OIL - OLD, USEABLE?
HEATING OIL PIPING TROUBLES
HEATING OIL SHELF LIFE
HEATING OIL SLUDGE
HEATING OIL USAGE RATE
HEATING SMALL LOADS
HEATING SYSTEM INSPECT DIAGNOSE REPAIR
HEATING SYSTEM INSPECTION DETAILS
HEATING SYSTEM NOISES
HEATING SYSTEM TYPES
HIGH EFFICIENCY BOILERS/FURNACES
HOT WATER HEATERS
HOT WATER IMPROVEMENT

INSULATION INSPECTION & IMPROVEMENT

LOW VOLTAGE BUILDING WIRING
LOW VOLTAGE TRANSFORMER TEST
LP & Natural Gas Safety Hazards

MANUALS & PARTS GUIDES - HVAC
MIXING / ANTI-SCALD VALVES
MOTOR OVERLOAD RESET SWITCH

Natural Gas Combustion Products
NO HEAT - BOILER
NO HEAT - FURNACE
NOISE / SOUND DIAGNOSIS & CURE
NOISE AIR CONDITIONER / HEAT PUMP
NOISE, DUCT VIBRATION DAMPENERS
NOISE CONTROL for HEATING SYSTEMS
NOISE, PLUMBING CHECKLIST
NOISE, WATER HEATER

ODORS & SMELLS DIAGNOSIS & CURE
ODORS FROM HEATING SYSTEMS
OIL BURNERS
OIL BURNER FUEL UNIT
OIL BURNER INSPECTION & REPAIR
OIL BURNER NOISE SMOKE ODORS
OIL BURNER NOZZLE & ELECTRODES
OIL BURNERS, RETENTION HEAD
OIL BURNER SOOT & PUFFBACKS
OIL FILTERS on HEATING EQUIPMENT
OIL FILTER MISSING
OIL FUEL TYPES & CHARACTERISTICS
OIL HEAT FIRE SAFETY CONTROLS
OIL LINE CLOGGING FIX
OIL LINE QUICK STOP VALVES
OIL LINE SAFETY VALVES
OIL ODORS, LEAKY OIL TANK PIPING
OIL PUMP FUEL UNIT
OIL SPILL CLEANUP / PREVENTION
OIL TANKS

PLASTIC HEATER VENT
PULSE COMBUSTION HEATERS
PASCAL CALCULATIONS
PRESSURE REDUCING VALVES
PUMPS, PONY PUMPS

RADIANT BARRIERS
RADIANT HEAT
RADIANT HEAT Floor Mistakes to Avoid
RADIANT HEAT TEMPERATURES
RADIANT SLAB FLOORING CHOICES
RADIANT SLAB TUBING & FLUID CHOICES
RADIATORS
REFRIGERANTS & PIPING
RELIEF VALVE LEAKS
RELIEF VALVES - TP Valves on Boilers
RELIEF VALVES - Water Heaters
RELIEF VALVE LEAKS
RELIEF VALVES - TP Valves on Boilers
RELIEF VALVES - STEAM TP VALVES
RELIEF VALVES - Water Heaters
RELIEF VALVES - Water Tanks
Reset Switch - Heater Primary Control
Reset Switch Broken - Quick Repair
RESET SWITCH - ELECTRIC MOTOR
Reset Switch - Stack Relays

SAFETY HAZARDS & INSPECTIONS
SAFETY HAZARDS GUIDE
SAFETY, HEATING INSPECTION
SAFETY RECALLS, Chimneys, Vents, Heaters
SOLAR HEATING SYSTEM DESIGNS
SOLAR HOT WATER HEATERS
SOOT on OIL FIRED HEATING EQUIPMENT
SPILL SWITCHES - Flue Gas Detection
SPLIT SYSTEM AIR CONDITIONERS & HEAT PUMPS
STACK RELAY SWITCHES
STAIN DIAGNOSIS on BUILDING INTERIORS
STEAM HEATING SYSTEMS

TANKLESS COILS
Thermal Expansion Cracking of Brick
THERMAL EXPANSION of HOT WATER
THERMAL EXPANSION of MATERIALS
THERMAL IMAGING, THERMOGRAPHY
THERMAL IMAGING MOLD SCANS
THERMAL MASS in BUILDINGS
THERMAL TRACKING & HEAT LOSS
THERMOSTATS, HEATING / COOLING
Transite Pipe Chimneys & Flues

VIDEO GUIDES: Heating System Videos
VIDEO GUIDES - InspectAPedia.com

WATER HEATERS
WATER HEATER SAFETY
WATER HEATERS for HOME HEATING USE?
WATER HEATER NOISES
WATER HEATER SCALE - De-Liming Procedure
WATER HEATER SCALE PREVENTION
WINTERIZE A BUILDING
WOOD, COAL STOVES & FIREPLACES
WOOD STOVE SAFETY

ZONE DAMPERS
ZONE VALVES

More Information

Photograph of  a modern oil-fired heating boiler How to Diagnose Oil Burner Noise, Smoke, Odors
     

  • OIL BURNER NOISE SMOKE ODORS - How to Diagnose Oil Burner Noise, Smoke, Odors
    • What Oil Fired Heating System Noises are Normal and What are the Noise Sources?
    • What oil fired heating system noises are abnormal and may indicate an operating problem or an unsafe condition?
    • What can we do to reduce heating system operating noises?
    • Diagnose & repair oil burner soot, puffback, rumbling, hard-starting
    • Cause & cure for heating boiler "snap, crackle, & popping" noises: antifreeze acidified & debris in the system: flush out needed
    • Oil burner noise: rattling oil burner motor sounds - "combustion ventilator"?
    • Flue gas exposure hazards, smells, odors
    • How to diagnose loss of heat, heating boiler noises, leaks, odors, or smoke
    • Troubleshooting heating boiler oil or gas burners & controls
    • How to inspect & repair central hot water heating boilers - hydronic heating
  • HEATING SYSTEM NOISES - separate article
  • NOISE / SOUND DIAGNOSIS & CURE - separate article
  • OIL BURNER INSPECTION & REPAIR - separate article
  • OIL BURNER MOTOR NOISE- separate article
  • Questions & Answers about how to diagnose and fix the causes of oil burner noises, smoke, soot, or odors & smells
  • References

Click to Show or Hide Related Topics

  • OIL BURNERS - home
  • COMBUSTION AIR
  • COMBUSTION AIR for TIGHT buildings
  • COMPLETE COMBUSTION, Stoichiometric
  • DIAGNOSE & FIX HEATING PROBLEMS-BOILER
  • DIAGNOSE & FIX HEATING PROBLEMS-FURNACE
  • DRAFT MEASUREMENT, CHIMNEYS & FLUES
  • DRAFT REGULATORS, DAMPERS, BOOSTERS
  • ELECTRIC MOTOR OVERLOAD RESET SWITCH
  • NOISE DIAGNOSIS, HEATING SYSTEM
  • ODORS FROM HEATING SYSTEMS
  • OIL BURNER FUEL UNIT
  • OIL BURNER INSPECTION & REPAIR
    • Oil Burner Smoke Test
    • Oil Burner CO2 Test
  • OIL BURNER DELAY VALVE
  • OIL BURNER NOISE SMOKE ODORS
  • OIL BURNER NOZZLE & ELECTRODES
  • OIL BURNERS, RETENTION HEAD
  • OIL BURNER SOOT & PUFFBACKS
  • OIL FILTERS on HEATING EQUIPMENT
  • OIL FILTER MISSING
  • OIL FUEL TYPES & CHARACTERISTICS
  • OIL LINE CLOGGING FIX
  • OIL LINE QUICK STOP VALVES
  • OIL LINE SAFETY VALVES
  • OIL ODORS, LEAKY OIL TANK PIPING
  • OIL SPILL CLEANUP / PREVENTION
  • OIL TANKS - home
  • OIL TANK PIPING & PIPING DEFECTS - home
  • PUFFBACKS, OIL BURNER
  • SOOT on OIL FIRED HEATING EQUIPMENT
InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.

Oil burner noise, odor, performance or smoke troubleshooting: Some oil burner noises are normal, others indicate trouble - we explain the difference. We explain how to recognize & diagnose the cause of oil fired heating boiler noises, leaks, odors, or soot and smoke. We describe just about any noise that you might hear at or near an oil burner, where it comes from, what it means, and what needs to be done about it.

Green links show where you are. © Copyright 2013 InspectAPedia.com, All Rights Reserved. Author Daniel Friedman.

How to Diagnose Noises & Odors During Heating System & Oil Burner Operation

Oil burner schematic (C) Carson DunlopFor a more broad list of noises traced to heating equipment, see HEATING SYSTEM NOISES or WATER HEATER NOISES. Articles at this website describe how to inspect, troubleshoot and repair heating and air conditioning systems to inform home owners, buyers, and home inspectors of common heating system defects. This website answers most questions about central hot water heating system troubleshooting, inspection, diagnosis, and repairs.

The articles at this website describe how to recognize common oil-fired heating appliance operating or safety defects, and how to save money on home heating costs. Also see CHIMNEY INSPECTION DIAGNOSIS REPAIR for details of chimney inspection, diagnosis, and repair, including blocked chimney flues, chimney backdrafting, leaks, and odors from flues. Separately we discuss CARBON MONOXIDE hazards in buildings. Readers concerned with LP gas or natural gas combustion flue gas products and hazards should also see Natural Gas Combustion Products and also LP & Natural Gas Safety Hazards.

What Oil Fired Heating System Noises are Normal and What are the Noise Sources?

Some heating system and heating oil burner noises are considered normal. These include noises coming from the following items:

The sketch above is provided courtesy of Carson Dunlop Associates.

  • Electric motor noise: The electric motor which operates the oil unit and blower unit on the oil burner, or an electric motor which may operate a furnace blower fan or a flue-vent draft inducer fan. However some electric motor noises are "normal" while others indicate trouble, as we will elaborate below.
  • Combustion air fan noise: The combustion air blower, usually a squirrel cage fan on oil burners is spun by a shaft extending out of the oil burner's electric motor. The blower itself produces noise as it spins and moves air into the combustion chamber. Unless the oil burner blower is damaged you probably won't hear it over the other noises produced at the burner.
  • Warm air furnace blower noise: Furnace blower fan units: A bad furnace fan blower motor or assembly may produce noise you would indeed hear above the noises coming from the oil burner itself.
  • Heating oil pump noises: The oil burner's heating oil pump or "fuel unit" is usually driven by a shaft (and couplings) which begin at the electric motor on the oil burner, extend through the combustion air blower, and connect to a drive shaft protruding from the oil pump. Unless there is an internal problem with the pump, these units are pretty quiet compared with other normal oil burner noises. But a pump may whine, rattle, buzz, or make other funny noises when something is wrong. See OIL BURNER FUEL UNIT for details on diagnosing and fixing noisy troubleseome oil burner fuel unit pumps.
  • Draft inducer fan noises: A flue vent connector-mounted or chimney-mounted combustion gas vent draft inducer fan if one is used, is usually audible, and in a typical installation you'll hear this fan turn on up 15 seconds or so before the oil burner itself begins to operate.
  • Oil burner combustion noise: Oil burner flame or combustion noise is usually the loudest "normal" noise coming from an oil burner. The fuel unit pumps heating oil to 100 psi or higher, then sprays it through an oil burner nozzle where the oil is ignited by electrodes mounted in the oil burner's tube at the entry to the combustion chamber. The "roar" that you hear at a normally operating heating system oil burner is usually produced mostly by this combustion process.

    Watch out: if you see soot or smoke or smell combustion gases, possibly accompanied by an increase in oil burner or heater noise, the system is not operating properly and may be unsafe. See OIL BURNER SOOT & PUFFBACKS
  • High speed oil burner noise compared with low speed oil burner noise: High speed oil burners noises: older traditional oil burners used on heating boilers and furnaces were driven by an electric motor spinning at 1725 rpm.

    Modern "high speed" heating system oil burners usually run at 3450 rpm. The higher speed permits more air flow and greater oil burner efficiency. But in buildings where an older low-speed oil burner is swapped out for a new "high speed" oil burner unit, the occupants are often surprised to hear that the new equipment is noticeably noisier than the old unit. This is normal, and your heating installer would have been smart to tell you to expect this change so you don't think something's wrong with the new heating system. You're tolerating more noise for lower heating system operating costs.

    George Lanthier (Fuel Oil News) reported on customer complaints about the increase in noise when new, more energy efficient but noisier oil burners are installed. In a 2006 article in that publication he offered several suggestions of which his first is that oil companies should "scare the dickens out of the customer" meaning that the vendor should prepare the client for an increase in heating system noise level.
    • Oil burner mechanical noise: Break the noise levels down by area in the equipment: is the noise from the burner itself? He argues that the burner mechanical parts are pretty quiet (barring a bad bearing or motor-DF);
    • Oil burner flame noise: draft conditions can affect flame noise, but Lanthier skirted the basic fact that doubling the burner speed along with concomitant higher oil and combustion chamber pressures increase noise levels. Careful selection of oil burner nozzle, flame retention head and head settings may reduce this noise a bit.
      • Switching to intermittent oil burner ignition (most residential burners run the igniter all during burner operation) may reduce burner flame noise and also reduce NOX emissions. A service tech can test for this benefit by installing a jumper to permit temporary turn-off of the ignition circuit once flame is established. (Appropriate safety controls must also be installed).
      • Hollow-cone oil burner nozzles may reduce flame noise. Indeed we (DF) recall from oil burner service days that changing the oil burner nozzle to a flame type and pattern that better matched the burner and combustion chamber could make a large difference in how the burner and flame behaved and sounded. We had good success at reducing rumbling noises at older oil burners by changing to a Monarch AR oil burner nozzle of the proper size. See OIL BURNER NOZZLE & ELECTRODES for details.
      • Measure the system standard heating tuneup parameters including smoke and CO2 to verify that your adjustments have improved, not hurt, system performance. We often found better combustion efficiency using hollow-cone oil burner nozzles -DF.
  • Chimney noise: In Lanthier's opinion this is the most serious noise problem from heating systems. Certainly we'd agree that many chimneys act as sound amplifiers and transmitters through a building. But
    Watch out for chimney fires: a roaring freight train sound that means a deadly dangerous fire is occurring (more likely with a wood-stove). More on chimneys is at Chimneys & Chimney Fires. Steps to reduce chimney noise, assuming we don't have a dangerous condition, include:
    • Install a chimney liner (have this done by a professional, certified chimney service company) to reduce noise, condensation problems, and oversized flues that may create venting and even safety problems. See NFPA31-2001, National Fire Protection Association and read all of Appendix E, “Relining Masonry Chimneys” .
    • Litman chimney elbow: Lanthier describes an idea from Roger Litman (North Shore Fuel) who adds an elbow at the end of a flue pipe run in the base of a chimney to reduce chimney noise. The elbow both reduced noise and improved chimney draft, perhaps because the elbow adds length and thus velocity to incoming chimney vent products. Add a drainage hole in the low point of the elbow, and "get the outlet of the elbow to angle about 15 degrees to the base".
  • Watch out: Too-Quiet Chimneys can mean big trouble: Lanthier explained that a blocked chimney flue can reduce heating system noise below normal levels, but of course a blocked chimney is dangerous, risking a fatal carbon monoxide poisoning condition as well as improper and unsafe heating boiler or furnace operation and damaging the burner itself (backpressure-burning off the burner end).

What oil fired heating system noises are abnormal and may indicate an operating problem or an unsafe condition?

Noises & soot buildup can lead to a potentially dangerous puffback which can damage the heating equipment and blow soot and smoke throughout the building. An experienced heating service technician may recognize the following diagnostic list of heating system or oil burner noises as well as perhaps other signs of trouble:

  • Chimney fires: WATCH OUT: DANGEROUS, IMMEDIATE ACTION NEEDED: Very loud noise like a roaring freight train coming from a chimney is likely to be a chimney fire- extremely dangerous, risking a house fire: turn off heat as you run out of the house: call the fire department from your cell phone or from a neighbor's house.

    A chimney fire moves fast, loud, and produces lots of smoke. In fact a quick look at the chimney serving a heater at any time can tell you how the heating system is operating. If the chimney top shows smoke or soot (without the freight train noise of a chimney fire) the burner is not operating properly.

    Watch out: If you have a chimney fire (or any kind of fire) stop reading this Internet article, leave the building immediately, and call your fire department. See CHIMNEY INSPECTION DIAGNOSIS REPAIR for details of chimney inspection, diagnosis, and repair, including blocked chimney flues, chimney backdrafting, leaks, and odors from flues. Separately we discuss CARBON MONOXIDE hazards in buildings.
  • Hums and clicks: can be a sign of an oil burner that has gone "off on safety" - the burner needs cleaning, adjustment, repair. Other hums may be traced to a failing control or control transformer. See this Hum FAQ and this Buzz FAQ below.
  • Noises during oil burner startup - a "bang" or puffback which blows soot into the room through the barometric damper or through other equipment openings: the oil pump may not be shutting down properly at the end of an oil burn cycle, leaking incompletely burned oil into the combustion chamber. That oil ignites at startup causing a potentially dangerous puffback. Immediate service and repair are needed.
  • Noises during oil burner startup - a "rumbling" sound (which usually continues all during operation" or a "stumbling" sound in the combustion chamber probably indicates that the system needs inspection and cleaning very soon. Some noise is normal however, but the normal sounds tend to be more smooth and continuous.
  • Noises during oil burner shut-down - a stumbling or rumbling after the oil burner motor has stopped, indicate that oil is continuing to leak into the combustion chamber and risks a dangerous puffback - see "Noises during oil burner startup" above. Immediate service is recommended.
  • Oil burner motor or fuel unit noises of shrieks or grinding coming from the electric motor or oil pump on the oil burner mean that immediate service is needed - probably a bearing is failing. Beckett (1989) noted that excessive oil burner motor noise may be due to excessive motor shaft end play.

    Details about the cause, diganosis & cure of noisy oil burner motors are at Table C: 7 Things to Check if an Electric Motor is Noisy
  • Furnace noises of shrieks, whining, or grinding coming from the electric motor or blower assembly of a furnace air handler probably mean that the system has a bad bearing (or fan belt) and prompt repair service is needed. It's best to shut down such a system since certain failures, such as sucking a furnace filter into the blower assembly, can lead to overheating and cause a fire.
  • Oil Burner Startup problems: noises and clues of puff back: if you see flapping at the barometric damper or if you see or hear vibrations in the system, prompt service is needed
  • Noises from radiators or heating baseboards: clanking pipes or sharp snapping noises may be heard as a normal consequence of expansion of metals during the heating cycle. These noises can often be eliminated or reduced by careful routing of piping and by allowing room around heating pipes for expansion, but probably not eliminated in the case of hot water baseboards.
    • Bubbling or rumbling noises in hot water heating piping can be caused by air in the heating lines. If the amount of air becomes excessive the system may be unable to circulate hot water and extra steps to bleed unwanted air will be required.
    • Hissing sounds such as air escaping from radiators or other piping where air bleeder valves are installed are normal but should be brief and uncommon. If you constantly hear air hissing from radiator bleed valves double check that you understand what kind of heat you have - hissing from bleeder valves on steam heat radiators as heat is coming up in the building is normal.
  • Noises from Oil Tanks or Oil Piping: Vibrations of the heating oil piping, especially if installed passing overhead along building framing and if installed without sound isolation can use the ceiling as a giant speaker and may be quite loud.
  • Noises from air leaks: on furnaces (hot air systems) we sometimes find that an air leak in the duct system or air handler, or quite often around the air filter itself, can make lots of noise.
  • Rattling noises at the oil burner: typically indicate a loose part or failing bearing. Also see this FAQ below.
  • Rumbling noises at the oil burner: may be normal, especially if the noise has not changed, and can often be reduced by choice of a different oil burner nozzle. But an increased rumbling noise can be a sign of burner, combustion chamber, or even chimney problems. See "Oil Burner Flame Noise" above. Also see this FAQ below.
  • Snap crackle pop noises: possibly traced to an antifreeze contamination problem. See this FAQ below.
  • Vibration and buzzing at oil burners: Common sources of vibration or sources of buzzing vibrating sounds in or close to an oil burner include:
    • The oil burner electric drive motor bearings,
    • the oil burner combustion air blower assembly bearings,
    • inside the fuel unit or oil pump an out of balance internal part or more seriously, a failing fuel unit can produce vibrations that may be transmitted via oil piping (common)
    • There is also usually a flexible rubber bushing (the coupling assembly) that connects the driving electric motor through the blower assembly to the fuel unit drive shaft. If that part is the problem you're in luck as it's a low-cost repair. (uncommon)
    • oil burner assembly mounting bolts that are loose (uncommon)
    • buzzing electrical components: on occasion a failing HVAC control will emit a buzzing sound, often traced to a faulty transformer or relay (common)

What can we do to reduce heating system operating noises?

Heating equipment located well out of occupied space, in an unoccupied basement, for example, are not usually a source of noise complaints in a building, though there are a few exceptions for which we have suggestions.

  • Consult your heating service technician first to be sure that the heating system is operating normally and safely, before attempting any other steps to reduce noises coming from the heating system.
  • How to cure vibrations of the heating oil piping or oil tank: re-route piping between the oil tank and the oil burner to remove any contact points with overhead ceiling framing or flooring; if those contact points are necessary to support the line, be sure that the oil line is supported with noise-suppressing fittings (we use foam rubber and copper pipe clamps) and that the piping is well secured.
  • How to cure warm air heating system air duct or filter noises see
    • Loose or Leaky Air Conditioning or Heating Ducts
    • Vibration Dampers & Asbestos at the Air Handler - make sure your vibration damper is properly installed, sized, and not leaky.
    • Under-sized Return Air Ducts can cause excessive duct noise since inadequate return air means the system is "return-air starved" and will suck air into the duct system at any available (and noisy) opening.
    • An Analysis of the Effectiveness of Air Filters on HVAC Systems includes discussion of air bypass leaks at air filters. Be sure to review this noise source as it's easy to correct.
  • Oil Burner Noise Insulation: some of our readers suggest building an insulated box around the oil burner to reduce its noise. Watch out! If you constrict or reduce the amount of combustion air available to the oil burner it will not operate properly and the system could become unsafe. Be sure to discuss the design of any noise insulation scheme and its possible effects on combustion air or other heating system considerations with your heating service technician.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about oil burner noises, smells, soot, diagnosis & repair

Question: Oil burner noise: Cause & cure for heating boiler "snap, crackle, & popping" noises: antifreeze acidified & debris in the system: flush out needed

This may not mean much in the grand scheme of things but I want to thank you for your site.

I am high in the Rockies and have had boiler issues the past year. My glycol had acidified and when the boiler was firing the “snap, crackle and popping” could be heard throughout the house so my plumber did a flush last winter.

All eight zones and the boiler were flushed through with a flush solution for several days, unfortunately they could not get the end caps off of the Teledyne boiler lines to brush out the heat exchanger of build up. In any event, I ended up finishing off the last winter with just fresh water in the system (did not add glycol after flushing, just removed the flush: lots of small particulate came out in the brown discharge) but I finished off the winter with heat in the house. Good thing, we had –30F temps at times.

Anyway, recently, rather than buy a new boiler, I had my guy do another flush, again two of the zones and the boiler did throw off particulate and they were dirty. Naturally, there was “green” in the discharge as I presume there was sloughing off of the inside wall of the copper lines that lead to the in floor heating tubes.

Anyway, we added glycol but man was I getting a banging still. So, with the help of your site I was able to figure out that the Proflo PFT12 expansion tank’s relationship to my Taco Hy-Vent air purge on top of the American Purge Valve and was able to see – as a layman – what was going on. I see that they are integral.

Now, I know to tap on the bottom of the expansion tank to make sure it’s not full to determine if if it’s bad. I also know how to use the Hy-vent to manually bleed off some air. I had a five second hiss yesterday and today only a two second hiss so I guess I am getting the air out.

Bottom line: your site showed the exact air purge and I was able to figure things out. Hopefully. Without your site I would be calling the plumber back all the time. Thanks for being there: no critique from me, just praise. regards, D.C., Breckenridge CO

Reply:

Thank you for the very nice note D.C. We work hard to make InspectAPedia's information useful and accurate, so I'm really grateful to hear that it was useful to you. And questions or content suggestions are very welcome as they help me see where we need to do more work.

About the boiler flush-out, I'm not surprised that after a flushout and then use for a heating season, a second flush would be helpful. But after that, if the chemistry is proper in the system with an antifreeze installation, you ought not to have to keep doing flush outs as the same physical dose of water remains in the system - you're not introducing new water, minerals, crud. I guess the trouble is when it's difficult to complete a thorough cleaning.

Thanks for the details - I'll add a version of these comments to our section on diagnosing boiler noises.

Question: Oil burner noise: hums, clicks: Oil burner won't start - just hums and clicks

my home oil boil (Warm-Flow bluebird 50/70) i put oil in and bled the boiler it ran for 1hr and again for 1hr later last night and it seems to have started up as normal this morning for 20min on son and now it wont, it only makes a humming noise like an electric board and clicks off loudly i hit the red rest button and same thing happens. no fan noise or low grumble as norm.

Please help im so stuck ! - Clark NI

Reply: things to check

Clarke N

When an oil burner won't start in response to the reset button it needs service or repair. From your description I can't tell if it's a fuel delivery problem or a motor problem. If the electric motor that runs the burner is spinning and the burner makes a fairly loud noise (all parts are moving) but you're not getting ignition the system will indeed keep going off on reset and that may be a dirty nozzle, dirty electrodes, or even a clogged oil filter or out of oil completely.

If the electric motor itself is not spinning, just humming, the motor is binding or the fuel unit is binding and not letting the motor spin. Check that there is no red reset button popped out on the motor itself - if there is one, when the motor is cool, push it back in and retry. But if that's the trouble I suspect you need a new motor.

Let us know what the service tech finds - it will aid other readers.

Question: Oil burner noise: rattling oil burner motor sounds - "combustion ventilator"?

hi, we have a 9year old furnace, we had it inspected by an actual heating and cooling company when we moved in 2 years ago..he said the combustion ventilator motor is going(it rattles and hums) quite loud ,,,is it very dangerous to leave it for another year.... it freaks me out,.....will it explode, and or cause co poisoning...we have co detectors .....-katherine

Reply: things to check including the draft inducing blower assembly in the oil burner motor and its shaft and connectors

If by combustion ventilator motor you mean a motor that is used to induce a draft for the heater, I would replace it asap. The worry is that the motor may stop entirely and as luck will have it, at 2 AM on a holiday when you'll pay an arm and a leg to get the service tech out for an emergency no heat call.

The motor won't explode but if it stops working, either the heater will also stop working (depending on what safety controls are installed) or worse, it could keep working and produce dangerous CO gases - for which your detectors are a first line of defense but not a solution for safe operation.

Question: Oil Burner Noise: loud buzzing, vibrating sounds

i have a riello oil burner which makes a steady noise on and off when heating is on but all of a sudden the steady noise is much louder like a loud buzzing/vibrating noise...any ideas what it could be ? - Kerry

Reply: check these things:

Kerry,

Provided that you can rule out oil burner noise caused by a dirty or misadjusted flame and actual burner operation, there are several common sources of mechanical noises in oil burners too.

This is a good application for an inexpensive mechanic's stethoscope. That device includes on the sensing end a metal rod whose end you can touch to different parts of a motor or assembly to see where vibration is loudest.

Common sources of vibration or sources of buzzing vibrating sounds in or close to an oil burner include:

  • The oil burner electric drive motor bearings,
  • the oil burner combustion air blower assembly bearings,
  • inside the fuel unit or oil pump an out of balance internal part or more seriously, a failing fuel unit can produce vibrations that may be transmitted via oil piping (common)
  • There is also usually a flexible rubber bushing (the coupling assembly) that connects the driving electric motor through the blower assembly to the fuel unit drive shaft. If that part is the problem you're in luck as it's a low-cost repair. (uncommon)
  • oil burner assembly mounting bolts that are loose (uncommon)
  • buzzing electrical components: on occasion a failing HVAC control will emit a buzzing sound, often traced to a faulty transformer or relay (common)

Let us know what you find, what we learn will help others.

Question: The furnace runs fine for a few days then we smell a choking burning odor

still did not answer the question, after servicing my furnace, change fuel filter clean furnace out and vacuum out the furnace, clean exhaust chimney,change nozzle, and give a good cleaning it runs fine, then within a couple of days and odor starts,like a choking burning odor that burns the nose ,what would cause this and how can I remedy this problem with calling a tech? and paying a bunch of money! - Bradly

Reply: things to check

Bradly I cannot diagnose the problem you describe just from your description.

Any of several errors could cause the problem you describe: improperly installed nozzle (leaking), air leaks in the oil piping, improper draft setting, improper electrode setting, etc. As some readers like iamhvac suggested, a cracked heat exchanger could be a source of odors as well, but you'd think that condition would be noticeable even immediately after service.

Watch out: If your heating system is smoking and producing odors it needs to be diagnosed and repaired by a trained service tech - you're not looking at just a filter change. And depending on the case, and the fuel, the conditions could be quite dangerous. iamhvac suggested "bradley sounds like a cracked heat exchanger causing combustion smoke to mix with your house air. time for a new furnace. call a pro get a free estimate." In our OPINION you don't want to jump the gun on this - get an accurate diagnosis before making a costly repair or system replacement.

Question: Oil burner keeps stopping

hi, our Deauville oil boiler is approximately 4 years old. It keeps going out and takes a couple of goes to re-light. Several people have been to look and have replaced parts but it still goes out at least once a day. Any ideas please??? - Mike

Reply:

Mike I just don't have enough information to guess what's wrong.

But as parts have been replaced and you still have the problem, it's time to ask to speak to the manager of your heating company service department. Politely let him know that you've had multiple service calls without success, and ask him to send out a more experienced service technician. Let us know what you're told - it will help other readers.

Question: I smell heating oil odors when oil burner is running - is that OK or normal?

I can smell oil when the burner is on. Is this OK? - Ian

Reply: No. But check for oil smells from the burner or from an oil leak or spill

Ian: if you smell heating oil when the burner is running there may be a leak or more likely the system is running dirty and out of adjustment, needing service. Just be sure you're not smelling an oil spill from a recent service.

Question: oil burner is producing black soot?

Just moved in to a rental and had to have oil delivered for heat. I just turned it on last night and woke up to the house being really foggy, I looked down stairs it didn't see any problems; however I blew my nose and it's nothing but black soot in my nose. It it because it's the first time coming on?? - Kim Haywood

Reply: proper oil burner servicing, cleaning, setup, and proper chimney draft are essential - don't blow soot into the home

Kim,

While it's not uncommon for a small burp of soot to blow out of the barometric damper when an oil burner first comes on at some heating equipment, a system that is putting enough soot into the air to enter your nose is not working properly and is potentially unsafe. A service call is needed to diagnose and fix the problem.

Question: I swapped in the burner on my oil heater - now I get more odors but less soot

I have a new boiler sitting in my garage but could not afford to have it installed. When the motor on my old one stopped working we swapped it out with the new gun. The old gun was covered in sludge at the nozzle and caused many a soot puffing out. After putting the new one in I noticed more odors but no soot. the boiler is in an enclosed area 3 foot by 6 foot - steve H.

Reply: proper oil burner setup is required

Steve, it sounds as if it's time to ask a trained oil heat service tech to take a look at the system. Your burner swap may have left an underlying problem still in place, and also, frankly it is not possible to accurately set up and tune an oil burner by eye. Special equipment is needed to measure draft, CO2, smoke, and temperature while making those settings.

Question: oil burner bearing replacement

Can I fix an oil burner bearing myself - John 12/2/11

Reply:

Probably not, John. Typically we replace the burner fuel unit or motor if it's bearing is shot. The squirrel cage blower fan assembly is also normally replaced as a unit.

Question: oil smell in basement when oil burner starts

I have an oil fired forced hot air system in my home. I had it cleaned and inspected about a month ago. It runs and heats fime most of the time. However I have noticed an oil smell in the basement when the oil burner kicks on and my attic fan runs at the same time(the attic fan has a humidistat). Is this becasue the attic fan causes a negative pressure in the house? Is this normal? Does my furnace need to be adjusted? Derrick - 12/9/11

Reply:

Derrick,

Could be that a whole house ventilating fan interferes with combustion air supply to the oil burner. Certainly if you notice sooting, oil odors, and burner operating problems when that fan is on it's highly suspicious. Provide an outdoor combustion air supply source directly to the burner. Above in this article we list other causes & cures of oil burner noises.

Also see our notes in the article above and the Q&A's below about oil burner noise and smoke at startup;

Question: chemical odor and high pitched sound from boiler after chimney repairs

Hi, I just had the lining of my boiler flue redone. They took out the large pipe leading into the flue out of the wall and put the lining in. Later, after the boiler was turned back on we had a smell of some type of chemicalish odor. My boiler was also making a high pitched sound I have never heard coming from a box labeled honeywell on the large pipe connected to the flue. This box has two silver pipes coming from it that connects to the main heating unit and a red button. We have turned off our boiler. The smell lingered for a long time. What is the box on the pipe called? What would be producing the burning smell (not like a fire smell at all- little chemically( not gas or oil smelling) The pipe was EXTREMELY hot to the touch. Thanks so much for any advice or labels! - Tania 1/2/12

Reply:

Tania I'm sorry but I don't quite know what you've got installed - maybe an automatic vent damper that's not opening? Certainly, you should immediately ask your heating service company for help.

Question: Intermittent squealing sound when heat is run through two of 3 zones

I have a very old oil boiler that heats our hot water. It has 3 zones. When we run out heat on the 1st and 3rd floors, we hear an intermittant squealing like sound, but we never hear it when we run the heat on the middle floor. It never makes this sound when the boiler is running for our hot water. Any ideas what this problem or sound is? - Marie 1/4/12

Reply:

Marie, this sounds like a problem with a circulator pump - maybe a bad circulator pump bearing; I'm betting your 3 zones each has an individual circulator and circulator relay; If I'm right you'll trace the sound to one or two circulators. Else I'm wrong and it's something else.

Question: oil burner starts & runs all night with reset button but won't re-start

My oil fired, warm air furnace exhibits the following mal-behavior:

It starts immediately upon pushing the red reset button; runs fine all day and into the night. It starts whenever the thermostat calls for heat during this period; it burns clean-no smoke, no unusual noises. It goes through its cycle and shuts down perfectly and provides good heat. This process continues on into the late night. Then, in the early hours of the morning, for some unknown reason it trips-off and stays off. It performs this cycle each and every day.

I have performed the following work on the furnace: Checked for leaks. Replaced the oil delivery line filter; replaced the pump strainer; replaced the furnace air filter; replaced the nozzle; and adjusted and reset the electrodes. Also I inspected and corrected electrical connections from the thermostat to the trip box. All appears in good shape. Start furnace and flame appears clean and well spread with no unusual sounds or smells.

The unusual behavior of this furnace was occurring before the work described above was accomplished and has been doing so for several years. Now, and after the work was accomplished, it still exhibits this unusual shut-off characteristic. The funny thing seems to be that the furnace never shuts off during the day time?? Any suggestions would be most appreciated. Thanks. - Tom 1/14/12

Reply:

Tom,

A oil fired heating system that goes off on reset but doesn't show signs of dirty fuel supply problems coudl have a bad cad cell sensor.

Question: intermittent choking sound from oil burner, then starts and runs. Stops, chokes, gasps.

My oil burner has been having an intermittent choking sound. It starts up fine. Runs smooth and even for five to seven minutes or so and then all of a sudden sounds like it is choking, gasping..... For about three minutes and then it switches back to running great, and runs fine and then does it again sometimes and sometimes it seems to be at the end of a heating cycle and choking and the system shuts off, only the shutdown does not require a restart.... My questions are 1 - what is the best way to install an outside air supply direct to the burner that will not chill out my house or allow in insects and rodents, so it has to be somehow controlled by the burner's need for combustion air, and 2 - how do I make sure my fuel lines are clean and not cruder up inside and impeding fuel flow? I suspect my issues are related to either insufficient air or varying fuel supply..... But not sure how to test for either other then go ahead and make sure there is no issue with either.... I would prefer to have the exterior air source anyway so I can close up all the air leaks elsewhere in this old house..... Please provide some guidance..... Thanks.... Great site by the way.... Best of the web.... - Lee 1/20/12

Hi from Lee again, My burner is continuing to do the intermittent gasping sound.... The nozzle has been cleaned and checked repeatedly and has not changed this pattern of running, then gasping, then running fine again...... Now that warmer weather is approaching I would like to resolve it before the next heating season..... Just not sure where to start to resolve this.. 3/21/12

Reply:

Lee,

Dirt in the fuel supply, dirty filter, dirty filter screen in the fuel unit, bad fuel unit, slipping coupling beween the fuel unit and the electric motor that drives the oil burner, even a loose wire, are examples of causes of intermittent stopping of the oil burner. Also try cleaning or just replacing the cad cell eye. Last and most expensive is a control swapout.

Question: Nuway oil burner, won't keep running

Hi i had a Nuway burner, its ignition ignite and run for about 5 sec's and blackout again. I change the photocell, put new transformer, clean burner but still encountered same problem. - Paula Vatou 1/24/12

Reply:

Paula, you don't mention an investigation of the fuel supply, that's where I'd look if you are confident that the electrics are ok. Check that there is oil in the tank, a clean oil filter installed, a new screen in the fuel pump, and air has been bled out of the oil lines. Then see if you're getting oil out of the nozzle.

Question: Grant 50/90 heating boiler ran out of oil, trouble getting started, now buzzing, won't fire

hi i have a similar issue to clark as above i have a grant 50/90 boiler which ranout of oil and was filled and bled as normal it took a while to start but was running for 20mins then cut out i went to press the red reset button and it started making a buzzing noise and now will not fire on its own i have to press the reset button 30-40 times it will fire for another 20 minutes as normal but cuts out again any ideas on whet i have to replace or check?
thanks - Clinton 2/5/12

Reply:

Clinton,

I can only guess from your note, but if a heating system runs out of oil, it's common to have to bleed air from the oil lines and filter and oil pump unit to get it working properly again. If the air-bleed-out was incomplete you may continue to have operating problems.

A second problem is that often when your system draws that last bit of oil from the tank it may suck along sludge and crud that then clog up the oil filter or nozzle. Sounds as if you need a service call. Be sure to tell the tech you had just run out of oil before these problems began.

Question: waste oil furnace air pressure problems - what to check

I installed a small hot shot waste oil furnace from clean burn a few years ago. It is a used furnace but a brand new oil burner. Every winter when using it, I have to constantly adjust my air pressure up and down through out the day, if the flame goes out or if it gets to high and rumbles. When it rumbles it blows out threw the peep hole, which I need to keep open or the flame goes out like there is not enough air for the burn. I was thinking maybe the oil burner was set up for a bigger furnace but then reading this I realized there was never a draft control put in the stack pipe. Could this be causing my problem? Thanks for any help! - Vince 2/7/12

Reply:

Vince,

You could have a combustion air problem but I'd look first for a dirty oil burner nozzle, improper air shutter adjustment on the burner. or a fuel unit that doesn't shut off cleanly, accumulating sludge and crud on the nozzle and causing startup problems. Bad electrodes or a bad transformer that is failing can also give the symptoms you describe.

Question: oil furnace won't work, the furnace hums but doesn't fire

My oil furnace is not working properly. The reset button is pressed in and the furnace is humming but not firing. Sometimes when I shut off the power switch and turn it back on it fires but doesn't stay on more for more than 2 mins. The water pump is hot to the touch but the pipes are cold. I bled the water this morning it was black and there was a lot of air in it but it's still not heating up or even staying on for that matter. What could be the problem? please help. - Tony 2/9/12

Reply: let's sort out oil burner no-start problems into fuel problems vs. air problems vs. normal operation of the systems

Tony, I'm not sure what "humming" means to you but some possibilities that occur to me include

The oil burner motor runs but you don't get ignition - which can be caused by a number of problems that typically sort out to either a fuel problem (clogged nozzle, clogged oil filter, clogged fuel unit strainer, dirty nozzle, bad fuel unit, airbound fuel lines, or no oil in the tank), or an electrical problem (no power to the burner, a bad primary control, an electric motor that has failed and is stuck)

Circulator pump hot to the touch means that the heater was working previously - enough to heat water in the system. If you call for heat and the water temperature is within the specified range set by the HI limit on the aquastat, then it's normal for the circulator to run for a while - the burner won't come on until the temperature in the boiler drops about 20F below the HI.

Question: can I change the oil burner nozzle size in my oil burner?

can i put a different size nozzle in my oil burner - Ken 2/10/12

Reply:

Yes, you can ask your heating service technician to change the oil burner firing rate up or down in gallons per hour (GPH) but JUST within the range of firing rates on the data tag found on your boiler or furnace.

Watch out: the oil burner nozzle firing rates in GPH listed on your heater's data tag assume a particular PSI of oil flow through the burner, typically 100 psi to 120 psi). If your service tech has changed the pressure away from factory the oil burner nozzle size may need to be set down to accomodate that amendment.

Question: oil burner flame is pulsing

The fan is running but flame in burner pulsates on and off and repeats every 5 seconds...what gives? earlgallant@eastlink.ca - 2/14/12

Reply:

Sounds like a bad control switch, loose wire, dirty nozzle or similar issue.

Question: we have soot all over our house - service company didn't find any problems with the oil burner

We have soot all over our house, had our oil burner (6 years old) service and it was clean and they found no problems. There was no soot in the basement. The tech. said that soot is coming from burning candles. The soot is mainly above the heating elements. I burn two candles in living room and yet there is soot in all of the rooms. Could it be candles that would cause this much soot? - Sheldon 3/26/12

Reply: check for thermal tracking

Sheldon,

First let's make sure that the "soot" is really soot from the heating system not from some other source, or not soot at all. Burning two candles might make soot, especially scented candles, but in my experience burning candles in one room doesn't soot up the whole house.

If the soot were coming from the heating system through ducts you'd find soot depositions in the ductwork and at supply registers.

If soot were coming from an oil burner puffback you'd find soot at the boiler room or furnace room

You should take a look at THERMAL TRACKING & HEAT LOSS - from what you say the black stains you see may not be soot at all.

Question: New Yorker Boiler & Riello R6 Burner - can't get it working

I have a NY Boiler and a Riello R5 burner. I came home today and the boiler was cold. temperature was down to 80 on my gauge. Tried to fire up the burner nothing happened. Bled the burner so it is getting oil. Checked the Aquastat and I am getting power to the burner. Powered it all down and on again. Side vent starts, aquastat clicks but buner doesn't fire. Any ideas? - John 5/13/12

Reply:

John,

You could be out of fuel, have a clogged oil filter, have a clogged oil burner nozzle, a burned out oil burner transformer, damaged oil burner electrodes, an electric motor failure at the oil burner (check for a thermal reset switch), no power to the oil burner, or a bad primary control, or something else I haven't thought of.

A reasonable sequence of steps is given at the top of this article, including these steps

  • Assure that there is electrical power to the burner and controls
  • Assure that the TT is calling for heat
  • Assure that there is fuel
  • Check various reset buttons & switches

Question: moldy smell from window air conditioner

in summer we had musky moldish smell believed from window air conditioner-cleaned it WELL-still bad smell-gave it away-no smell from new ownere-couple months later plugged in room portable heater BAD musky smell-can find NO mold did mold test had regular molds everyone has-WHATS CAUSIN THIS-have a carpet in this room-this room only has the smell with air cond. use or heater use? - Randy 10/6/12

Reply:

Randy, most likely the mold test you performed was unreliable, even junk science given the description in your message and the continuation of the moldy odor.

Somehow you are discussing this question on a hot water heating boiler page. Anyhow, information about mold in air conditioning systems is at MOLD in AIR HANDLERS & DUCT WORK and at WINDOW / WALL AIR CONDITIONERS

Question: is it possible to replace the heat sheild in my oil burner combustion chamber?

The heat shield in my oil boiler burner box is damaged, dan it be repaired? it is a foam type shield. - Bob 10/9/12

Reply: yes and it is a critical safety feature that needs to be fixed

Bob, I've never seen a foam heat shield and can 't imagine what that might be. But there are various types of combustion chamber liners in the fire box that contains the oil burner flame, ranging from fire-brick through pre-formed factory-built combustion chamber liners to a wet-pack kit used to repair or reline a combustion chamber through the oil burner mounting opening.

Watch out: The combustion chamber liner is critical for safe, proper oil burner operation, serving at least two functions:

  1. The combustion chamber liner gets hot when the oil burner is running, helping to assure complete combustion of oil droplets exiting the oil burner nozzle
  2. The combustion chamber liner prevents the oil burner from burning a hole through the back of the boiler or furnace - a fire hazard.

Question: smoke came out of warm air heating supply vents when I turned on the heat.

I just turned on heat for first time this season . At start smoke came out of vents all over house for about a minute then stopped. It was white not black. We vented house and it did not happen again. Is this normal? - Donna 10/9/12

Reply:

Watch out: Any smoke coming out of heating vents is a sign of trouble and unsafe conditions. You should not run the heating system until the system has been inspected and if necessary, repaired. While I can imagine a few scenarios that might produce a smoke-like substance at first heating startup of the season (perhaps A/C condensate leak on the heat exchanger) what you describe is certainly not normal and as it could be an unsafe condition it needs attention.

Question: loud gurgling sounds coming from oil fuel line

I have an oil storage tank in my basement. A few years ago I had new valves and orange-colored fuel lines (from tank to burner) installed. Over the past several months when the oil burner is running there is a loud gurgling/rumbling sound on the first floor of the house, but can't be heard in the basement. I thought it was the oil burner but it actually seems to be coming from one of those orange fuel lines coming out of the tank. Any suggestions? - Kevin C 10/19/12

Reply:

Kevin,

Ask your service tech to check for leaks in the oil supply or more likely return line or it's connections.

Question: Oil burner noise: What is causing a rumbling sound whenever the furnace kicks on

We had a furnace installed in December. Since then we have a rumbling whenever the furnace kicks on. The rumbling vibrates the entire house. The installers have been to the house three times and cannot locate the problem. They changed the flapper and added some vent work. The last time they came they thought we needed to change our oil tank. - Nancy Plummer

Reply: rumbling oil tank or rumbling oil burner?

I'm not sure how an oil tank would cause rumbling in an oil fired heating system, except indirectly: if the oil tank were badly contaminated with rust and sludge it could cause repeated oil burner nozzle clogging and improper oil burner operation. I'd ask the oil heat technician to be more specific about why they made that recommendation. [Incidentally oil burner noise does vary with the nozzle brand, size, and pattern.]

It is fair to say that some causes of bad oil burner operation can be difficult to track down and can be subtle. A temperature sensor used by the aquastat and improperly installed can, for example, lead to short on cycling and sooty operation that leads to rumbling and bad flame, or a defective or clogged chimney can also cause improper operation - the list is pretty long.

From your note I can't tell if the sound source is improper burner operation, improper blower operation on a furnace air handler, or a duct work problem.

It might help to give a call to your oil heat service company and speak with the service manager. Ask him or her to send an experienced senior technician to review the problem so that your system is not only quiet, but reliable and safe.

Rumbling sounds at the oil burner itself are often a flame adjustment or a less than optimum choice of oil burner nozzle, as we discuss in the article above

Question: oil burner noise & smoke at startup or shutdown

I changed the oil burner nozzle, now it smokes when firing;
Our oil fired furnace is smoking - do I need a repair?
Oil burner making a rumbling noise at shutdown;
Riello F3 oil burner is producing black smoke out of the chimney at startup
Whoomph sound at oil burner startup

I just changed nozzle on my furnace. I "snugged it" as instructed by tech at plumbing supply house, used metal gage to properly gap electrodes, reinstalled all and it appears to be running fine, except that a small amount of smoke is coming from the barometric damper every time the unit is in firing mode. Suggestions? - Jim 1/14/12

Just finished a boiler rebuild and heating system recommissioned and working fine. When the furnace starts the start up noise is different from the previous noise. The only way I can describe it is that the noise is more of a whoomph which stutters 3-4 times. Could that be too little air supply? I have not had the flue gases checked yet, can't get a technician with a test guage for a few weeks yet. Any ideas? - Ian 2/11/12

My oil burner, Riello f3, fairly new, produces black smoke out the chiminy on startup. It was tuned up when it was installed. However, I just noticed that the Air settings and the turbulator setting is far off from that recommended in the boiler manual for that burner and nozzle. What causes the black smoke? Is it normal? - J.L. 10/1/12

I have rumble noise on oil burner shutdown, starts and runs fine - Dennis 11/28/12

Our oil furnace is smoking do I need a repair man out to the house? - Kim 11/30/12

Reply: things to check when the oil burner smokes or is noisy at startup or shutdown

Jim:

The air suppy may not be adjusted properly;

Also, if you over-tightened the oil burner nozzle onto its mounting head you may have stripped threads between those parts. I did that (only once) and had a heck of a time figuring out what was wrong. When you strip threads at the nozzle (typically steel, mounting in a brass nozzle line adapter) the result is oil at 100-140 psi spraying out around the leaky mount when the oil burner is running, and smoky burner operation; if you see that problem (try starting the system briefly with ignition off so you can look for oil spray) you will have to replace the nozzle line adapter as well as nozzle.

Ian and Dennis,

Try installing a quick stop valve at the oil burner. Search inspectApedia for OIL LINE QUICK STOP VALVE to read details.

A quick stop valve makes sure that the oil supply stops cleanly when it should, which often will cure the rumbling noise you describe. If you do not fix the problem the risk is an accumulation of unburned oil in the combustion chamber (left at shutdown) that is ignited at start-up, leading to our next warning:

J.L., Ian , Dennis & Kim:

Watch out: a smoky oil burner is often headed for a very messy and potentially dangerous puffback. I suggest calling our heating service company, discuss with them what you are seeing, and schedule a service call accordingly.

Question: low on oil, oil burner went off, gauge is not reliable

I just got a (3.57 a gallon!) first oil delivery of 100 gallons at the house I am renting. I only went through 3/8+/- of a tank from May til last week (I live on Cape Cod, MA--just getting into the 40s here--the oil was only used to heat hot water until a few weeks ago--now daily for heat and hot water); I wanted to wait until the tank was at @1/8 full-bad idea. (I am a disabled single mom w a 9 year old) I thought I was ok to wait for my next SSDI check on 12/3 but "ran out" of oil on 11/24. I finally got some $ to get 100 gallons. My evil bad-tempered landlord (think the Grinch without good qualities said if the tank was "broken", I would be held financially responsible. She never said what level to fill at--I had paid her $300 at move-in for 1/2 tank)

A heating tech purged the line and got the furnace started but shutoff again (pre-delivery..backtracking for context). I took my son to my Mother's house for 3 nights to stay warm/didn't ask/tell her to pay for a hotel) My landlord threatened that I would be held negligent if there was a problem with the tank. She wanted me to pay the tech--I said NO cuz the gauge said over 1/8. She knew I was waiting til 12/4 and had never had oil before for heat.I paid to have the oil delivery company purge/ bleed the line again if needed (with the new oil). It did NOT need to be purged.

The gauge is obviously not reliable--my landlord claims the tank was cleaned and gauge is accurate, BUT if I added 100 gallons to a 275 gallon tank, and the tank gauge is now over 1/2, math tells me that there must be over 40 gallons of sludge/unusable oil!? (I paid $300 in May for the half tank that was left by previous tenant or after landlord used 1/2 tank -- hard to get the answer from the Grinch; if the gauge said 1/8 left for the sake of this theory--and I added 100 gallons and got over 1/2 tank, and half tank is 137.5 gal, then at least 37.5 gal is not usable!) right? Also, it is making a LOUD clanking noise--did prior to delivery but not as often--what is this? Thank - Amy Lynne 11/30/12

Reply:

Amy Lynne,

If the oil tank is not kept sufficiently full, indeed air or sludge drawn into the oil lines can clog the filter or leave the oil burner air-bound - risking loss of heat, frozen pipes, expensive building damages - events worse than just the cost of hiring the service company to bleed air out of the system and keep the system running.

If you think that the oil heat usage rate is abnormal you can check that view by asking the oil company about the home's oil consumption in the past.

And yes, oil gauges are not precise - and can't be given the shape of the oil tank, unless special electronic and calibrated devices are installed - not a usual practice.

And yes, for oil tanks whose oil lines are taken off of the top of the tank, the bottom fraction of oil in the tank is not usable - the oil pick-up line does not extend all the way to the tank bottom as the tech wants to avoid picking up oil sludge or water - also leading to heat loss. But you're not being robbed - if the oil couldn't be take out of the tank before your tenancy it was there at the start of our lease. You were not robbed. Search InspectApedia for OIL TANK GAUGES to read details.

Loud clanking noise or any other odd noise from the oil burner merit prompt attention from the service company as you risk not only loss of heat but a puffback or other unsafe conditions.

You should check your lease terms with an attorney but most often the tenant is indeed responsible for keeping oil in the tank and heat working lest the home be damaged. Don't cut it too close to the wire in ordering an oil tank fill-up.

Question: oil burner fumes & odors after burner shutdown on power-vented heating system

I have a power vent on my oil, hot air furnace. The furnace seems to run fine but I'm getting residual smell/fumes in the basement after the temp is satisfied and furnace shuts down. Is this normal and if i replace the vent will it fix the problem? The equipment is 12 years old. - Jake 1/11/2013

Reply:

Jake, I'd take a look at the operation of the power venter during the shut-down cycle and compare that run time with the manufacturer's specifications. It may be that the system needs a purge cycle. Also look for heating oil drips or leaks around the system.

Question: how can I quiet down my noisy oil burner assembly?

I have a Weil-McLean Oil burning with current specs: 77.5% efficience 8% CO2 Cleaned and tuned every season I can only guess the burner is approximately 20 years old +- My concern is the increased roaring sound during burn ( The burner is used for heating only). In past years I've heard the burner run quite a bit quieter and, in fact, my tech whom I've had visit twice says everything is fine.

The smell of oil is noticable whenever I turn up the thermostat. I am sure both the roar from the burner along with the specs can be improved ( you've heard that before from a layman). What questions would you recommend I ask the tech and/or is it time to look for a new burner and serviceman? Safety concerns are firsthand every time I fire up the burner. Thanks-M., Gloucester MA. 1/13/2013

Reply:

Ask the heating service tech to give an opinion about the cause and meaning of the noise you hear. Some noises may be due to improper and even unsafe burner operation such as a dirty system, dirty heating system, mis-adjusted oil burner, simply the choice of nozzle type, loose parts that are likely to lead to a heating system failure, some other operating defect we've not listed, or in most extreme case, chimney fire (an immediate hazard in which case you should leave the building, turning off heat if you can safely do so, and call the fire department) .

The fact that you smell heating oil suggests that the heating system is not working properly; there are several ......

Even in the case of an oil burner that is properly cleaned, tuned, and adjusted, choice of settings (for example oil line pressure) and oil burner nozzle type can cause changes in the sound of the burner. Also as a rule, newer high-speed (3450 rpm) oil burners are more noisy (and more efficient) than older low-speed (1725 rpm) oil burner assemblies. In some cases the service technician might try a different oil burner nozzle (such as the Monarch AR for "anti rumble") to see if that helps with noise reduction.

In sum I agree with your priorities:

  1. safety first
  2. proper and efficient operation second
  3. convenience and quietude third

For a system that is operating safely and properly but for which noise remains a problem I'd look at

  1. Noise and sound control measures such as identifying sources of noise transmission in to the building (e.g. an oil line secured to the underside of floor joists)
  2. Noise & sound insulation: by providing an outdoor combustion air supply often it's possible to close off a boiler room and even to provide fire-proof sound insulation on its walls and ceiling.

Questions or comments about this article

Questions & answers or comments about how to diagnose and fix the causes of oil burner noises, smoke, soot, or odors & smells

Ask a Question or Enter Search Terms in the InspectApedia search box just below.

Technical Reviewers & References

Related Topics, found near the top of this page suggest articles closely related to this one.

  • [1] Beckett Oil Burners, "Burner Motor Service Facts", Beckett Corporation, Technical Information, 15 June 1989 [copy on file as PDF].
  • Carson, Dunlop &
Associates Ltd., TorontoCarson, Dunlop & Associates Ltd., 120 Carlton Street Suite 407, Toronto ON M5A 4K2. (416) 964-9415 1-800-268-7070 info@carsondunlop.com. The firm provides professional home inspection services & home inspection education & publications. Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors. Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission for InspectAPedia to use text excerpts from The Home Reference Book & illustrations from The Illustrated Home. Carson Dunlop Associates' provides:
    • Commercial Building Inspection Courses - protocol ASTM Standard E 2018-08 for Property Condition Assessments
    • Home Inspection Education Courses including home study & live classes at eleven colleges & universities.
    • Home Inspection Education Home Study Courses - ASHI@Home Training 10-course program.
      Special Offer: Carson Dunlop Associates offers InspectAPedia readers in the U.S.A. a 5% discount on these courses: Enter INSPECTAHITP in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author.
    • The Home Reference Book, a reference & inspection report product for building owners & inspectors.
      Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAHRB in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author.
    • The Home Reference eBook, an electronic version for PCs, the iPad, iPhone, & Android smart phones.
      Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order. Enter inspectaehrb in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space.
    • The Illustrated Home illustrates construction details and building components, a reference for owners & inspectors.
      Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Illustrated Home purchased as a single order Enter INSPECTAILL in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space.
    • The Horizon Software System manages business operations,scheduling, & inspection report writing using Carson Dunlop's knowledge base & color images. The Horizon system runs on always-available cloud-based software for office computers, laptops, tablets, iPad, Android, & other smartphones.
  • "Noise and Moisture, Using scare tactics” may be necessary when installing a new heating system", George Lanthier, Fuel Oil News, M2MEDIA360, 1030 W. Higgins Road Suite 230, Park Ridge, IL 60068 847-720-5600 02/1/2006. According to Fuel Oil News, George Lanthier owns Firedragon Enterprises and is the author of nine books on oil heating and heating systems. He is a teaching consultant and expert witness on oil heating systems. He can be contacted at 132 Lowell Street, Arlington, MA 02474-2756. His phone number is (781) 646-2584 and he can be faxed at (781) 641-7099. He can also be contacted through his Web site at www.FiredragonEnt.com.
    • Wiring & Oil Burning Equipment, George Lanthier
    • The Cmr 4.00 Guide: a Detailed Guide to the Massachusetts Regulation on Oil burning Equipment, George Lanthier
    • The hot water handbook: An advanced primer on domestic hot water, George Lanthier
  • Domestic Central Heating Wiring Systems and Controls, Second Edition, Raymond Ward

Books & Articles on Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, & Repair

  • Our recommended books about building & mechanical systems design, inspection, problem diagnosis, and repair, and about indoor environment and IAQ testing, diagnosis, and cleanup are at the InspectAPedia Bookstore. Also see our Book Reviews - InspectAPedia.
  • Home Reference Book - Carson DunlopThe Home Reference Book - the Encyclopedia of Homes, Carson Dunlop & Associates, Toronto, Ontario, 25th Ed., 2012, is a bound volume of more than 450 illustrated pages that assist home inspectors and home owners in the inspection and detection of problems on buildings. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. Field inspection worksheets are included at the back of the volume. Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAHRB in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author.

    Or choose the The Home Reference eBook for PCs, Macs, Kindle, iPad, iPhone, or Android Smart Phones. Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAEHRB in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space.

  • GO TO Carson Dunlop's Home Study Course Information - How to Become a Home Inspector: Carson Dunlop's nationally recognized Home Study Course, selected by ASHI the American Society of Home Inspectors and other professionals and associations. This website author is a contributor to this course.
  • GO TO Carson Dunlop's Home Study Course Information - How to Become a Home Inspector: Carson Dunlop's nationally recognized Home Study Course, selected by ASHI the American Society of Home Inspectors and other professionals and associations. This website author is a contributor to this course.
  • GO TO Carson Dunlop's Home Study Course Information - How to Become a Home Inspector: Carson Dunlop's nationally recognized Home Study Course, selected by ASHI the American Society of Home Inspectors and other professionals and associations. This website author is a contributor to this course.
    Building inspection education & report writing systems from Carson, Dunlop & Associates Ltd
  • Carson Dunlop, Associates, Toronto, have provided us with (and we recommend) Carson Dunlop Weldon & Associates' Technical Reference Guide to manufacturer's model and serial number information for heating and cooling equipment
    Special Offer
    : Carson Dunlop Associates offers InspectAPedia readers in the U.S.A. a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Technical Reference Guide purchased as a single order. Just enter INSPECTATRG in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space.

  • Carbon Monoxide Gas Toxicity, exposure limits, poisoning symptoms, and inspecting buildings for CO hazards
  • Home Heating System Should Be Checked [for proper venting and for CO Carbon Monoxide Hazards - DJF]
  • Inspection Procedures for Oil-Fired Heating Systems Detailed step by step approaches for inspecting complex systems]
  • Oil Tanks - The Oil Storage Tank Information Website: Buried or Above Ground Oil Tank Inspection, Testing, Cleanup, Abandonment of Oil Tanks
  • Domestic and Commercial Oil Burners, Charles H. Burkhardt, McGraw Hill Book Company, New York 3rd Ed 1969.
  • National Fuel Gas Code (Z223.1) $16.00 and National Fuel Gas Code Handbook (Z223.2) $47.00 American Gas Association (A.G.A.), 1515 Wilson Boulevard, Arlington, VA 22209 also available from National Fire Protection Association, Batterymarch Park, Quincy, MA 02269. Fundamentals of Gas Appliance Venting and Ventilation, 1985, American Gas Association Laboratories, Engineering Services Department. American Gas Association, 1515 Wilson Boulevard, Arlington, VA 22209. Catalog #XHO585. Reprinted 1989.
  • The Steam Book, 1984, Training and Education Department, Fluid Handling Division, ITT [probably out of print, possibly available from several home inspection supply companies] Fuel Oil and Oil Heat Magazine, October 1990, offers an update,
  • Principles of Steam Heating, $13.25 includes postage. Fuel oil & Oil Heat Magazine, 389 Passaic Ave., Fairfield, NJ 07004.
  • The Lost Art of Steam Heating, Dan Holohan, 516-579-3046 FAX
  • Principles of Steam Heating, Dan Holohan, technical editor of Fuel Oil and Oil Heat magazine, 389 Passaic Ave., Fairfield, NJ 07004 ($12.+1.25 postage/handling).
  • "Residential Steam Heating Systems", Instructional Technologies Institute, Inc., 145 "D" Grassy Plain St., Bethel, CT 06801 800/227-1663 [home inspection training material] 1987
  • "Residential Hydronic (circulating hot water) Heating Systems", Instructional Technologies Institute, Inc., 145 "D" Grassy Plain St., Bethel, CT 06801 800/227-1663 [home inspection training material] 1987
  • "Warm Air Heating Systems". Instructional Technologies Institute, Inc., 145 "D" Grassy Plain St., Bethel, CT 06801 800/227-1663 [home inspection training material] 1987
  • Heating, Ventilating, and Air Conditioning Volume I, Heating Fundamentals,
  • Boilers, Boiler Conversions, James E. Brumbaugh, ISBN 0-672-23389-4 (v. 1) Volume II, Oil, Gas, and Coal Burners, Controls, Ducts, Piping, Valves, James E. Brumbaugh, ISBN 0-672-23390-7 (v. 2) Volume III, Radiant Heating, Water Heaters, Ventilation, Air Conditioning, Heat Pumps, Air Cleaners, James E. Brumbaugh, ISBN 0-672-23383-5 (v. 3) or ISBN 0-672-23380-0 (set) Special Sales Director, Macmillan Publishing Co., 866 Third Ave., New York, NY 10022. Macmillan Publishing Co., NY
  • Installation Guide for Residential Hydronic Heating Systems
  • Installation Guide #200, The Hydronics Institute, 35 Russo Place, Berkeley Heights, NJ 07922
  • The ABC's of Retention Head Oil Burners, National Association of Oil Heat Service Managers, TM 115, National Old Timers' Association of the Energy Industry, PO Box 168, Mineola, NY 11501. (Excellent tips on spotting problems on oil-fired heating equipment. Booklet.)
  • ...

HOME ABOUT CONTACT COPYING DESCRIPTION POLICIES PRINTING PRIVACY © 2013 Copyright InspectAPedia.com