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Water pressure tank (C) Daniel Friedman InspectApedia.comNo Water Pressure, Diagnostic FAQs
Problems with complete loss of water flow /water pressure

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No water pressure at all:

Complete loss of water supply at a building, diagnostic FAQs: this article provides answers to frequently-asked questions about how to diagnose problems with the complete or periodic-complete loss of building water pressure & flow.

These lost water pressure questions & answers help sort out the causes of water pressure problems and help determine if the problem appears to be at the water pump, pump controls, pump wiring, or the actual water source such as a private well or water storage tank.



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No Water Pressure: lost all water pressure, problems, solutions

Photo of a water tank air valve for adding air to a water pressure tankQuestions and answers about total loss of water pressure, posted originally at NO WATER PRESSURE - topic home where we offer diagnosis and repair advice. Be sure to see that article.

[Click to enlarge any image] Photo: the main water shutoff valve at a water pressure tank (white arrow).

Question: pressure falls to zero before the pump engages; delayed pump start

(June 22, 2014) Steve C. said:

I have a deep well (430'). The pump is over 15 years old. My problem is that when if hit the low pressure cut in at 30psi, the pressure switch engages normally but the pressure continues to drop all the way to zero. It takes about 15 seconds after the switch engages for water to start flowing into the pressure tank at which time the recovery seems fine

. I also watched the pressure gauge for about 30 minutes with no water draw in the house and it seemed to drop less tan 1psi. One other note is when the water pressure returns, I get a lot of air in the system.

Reply:

Interesting question.

If the pressure gauge is on the house side of the pump and controls, seeing no pressure drop when nothing is running suggests that there is no leak on the house side of any pump, controls, or check valves, but doesn't rule out a leaky well pipe or foot valve and loss of prime or problem with air volume controls.

If the pressure gauge is on the well side of house tank and pump controls and there is no pressure drop then that does argue against a leak in the well piping or foot valve.

Look for debris clogging of the sensor port on the pressure control switch - or try just replacing the switch and the connector tube that allows it to sense water pressure and let us know if that works.

Question: can a bad pressure regulator cause loss of all water pressure?

(July 13, 2014) Doyle said:

Can the pressure reducer valve get out of adjustment or go bad and no water flow thru it.
I have water at the shut off valve which is just before pressure reducing valve but none in the house at any outlet. No water leaks can be detected anywhere.

Reply:

Doyle,

Pressure regulators can fail - though usually the failure results in an unwanted increase in water pressure, depending on the product sure, it might clog and block flow.

Question:

(July 27, 2014) Ben Seguin said:

Hello,
My water system consist of a submersible pump with pressure tanks. The pump is about 15 years old but the tank and control are just over 1 year old. The systems works fine most of the time except when we happen to create a large water demand - shower, dish washing and flushing the toilet at at once.

IN that instance the control trip off and we loose all water pressure in the house. We then have to go to the control and reset the pump by using the small lever on the side of the control. Could use trouble shooting advice.
Thanks

Reply:

Ben,

From what you describe most likely the control is working properly, protecting the pump from damage by shutting the system down when your well is running out of water - when the demand exceeds the well flow rate. When you wait a time for well to recover the pump is then OK. Some pump pressure control switches require manual reset.

See

inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Pump_Protection_Switches.php

for details.

Question:

(Aug 6, 2014) sandy said:

the breaker switch shut off and then I flipped it back on and had water for a couple hours then off the switch went again. now this morning the switch is still on and I have no water coming in the house at all.

Reply:

Sandy

when a circuit breaker keeps tripping off we figure there is a real overcurrent on the circuit - an unsafe condition for which the breaker is doing its job. The problem could be a shorted wire or a motor that is failing, drawing high current.

I would leave the circuit off (avoiding a fire risk), and call a well plumber to test and inspect and fix.

Question:

(Aug 7, 2014) toni said:

Pump motor was loud so we replaced it then we had intermediate water pressure. Found a leak under holding tank, replaced tank still have intermediate water pressure. Pump keeps sucking air but we don't find any other leaks. Any suggestions?

Reply:

Search InspectApedia for "Air Discharge at Faucets" to see a diagnostic procedure that may explain the trouble you describe. Either the pump is actually drawing air from within the well (low well water, missing safety controls), or there is a leak in piping or there is an old snifter valve or other air volume control that needs to be removed or replaced.

Question: pump only runs if bypass switch is held

(Dec 17, 2014) Shannon said:
Our well suddenly stopped giving us water one night. We tried resetting the switch the way we do when the power goes out and that did not work. The only time we got water was when the bypass switch was held.

So we got a new pressure switch twice (thinking the first replacement must be bad too) but are still only getting water when the bypass switch is held on. We have checked and could find no blockages in the pipe leading to the pressure switch. What else might be wrong with it and how might we be able to fix it?

Reply:

Shannon

ask your plumber or well repair company to check the current draw of the well pump and check for a damaged pump, binding motor, damaged pump impeller, or low voltage.

Question: water came out blue

(Jan 11, 2015) mary said:
yesterday we had water pressure n then all of a sudden the water cane out blue and we had no water pressure at all does anyone have any ideas to help us?

Reply:

Blue water? If your home has a water softener or water treatment equipment I'd start checking there. Try putting that equipment in bypass mode temporarily and also check for clogged faucet strainers.

Copper can also give blue-looking water, for example if there were copper oxide deposits that were disturbed anywhere in the water system.

Question: effects on water pipes if power loss in low temperatures

(Feb 13, 2015) pris said:
what happens to water pipes if there is a power loss in very low temps

sorry, meant power loss to well and very cold temps

Reply:

The risk is frozen, burst pipes, water damage, etc.

Question: well pit cover left off means frozen pipes and no water

(Feb 15, 2015) Robert Martin said:
I came home after being away for 3 days. No water! It has been really cold. My pressure tank is in my crawl space, I thought I might have a frozen line coming into the tank, but pipes are very warm after heating them up.

The pressure gauge is reading 0psi and the pressure in the tank is 23psi. I am stumpped, looking for any suggestions or thoughts. I was thinking I might have bad pressure switch. The house is new construction less than 6 years old. I don't think problem is inside pipes.

I have a filter whit a shut off before the filter (after the pressure tank) and one after the filter. When I shut the valve off just after the pressure tank and leave the valve open after the filter, water drains from house into filter. When I reverse it I get no flow and 0psi on pressure gauge. No flow when they are both open and gauge is 0psi for everything. Thanks.

(Feb 16, 2015) Robert Martin said:
Figured it out. One of the kids this summer moved the cover to expose to well. It froze where the water pipe comes out of the well then goes into the ground. A little heat and about 500-600 feet of extention cord and walla!

Reply:

Good going Robert.

In a similar case years ago we found that adding even a small amount of heat - a 75W incandescent bulb - did the trick of preventing the controls and pipes in the well pit from freezing in bitter cold weather. Keep the kids out of the well pit anyway. What the heck are they doing in there? No, don't tell me.

Question: loss of water pressure traced to pipe leak

1 March 2015 Mike said:

Hi, I have a question. I have a problem with my water well. The pump is deep and is about three years old and the pressure switch/control box and pressure tank are about two years old.

Everything has been working great until today. Capacitor in control box looks intact and there is electricty going to pressure switch contacts and I can hear/feel the vibration from the pump but there is almost no water pressure.

When I close the output valve after the pressure tank, the well pumps up to around 35PSI.

I turned off power to the pump and it seems to be holding pressure ok. When I turn power back on and open the output valve the pressure stays up for 30 secs and then drops to zero and will not rise until I shut off the water valve. I can feel the pump turning the whole time, and I don't see any major water leaks further down the line.

Reply:

Mike

It can be tricky to diagnose a submersible pump, but there's some help.

Some pressure control switches will shut down the pump if it's pumping air, and other more sophisticated pump controls will detect various pumping problems and also protect the equipment.

Without opening the well or doing more diagnostics we aren't sure if the problem is the pump, the well, the piping.

  1. I'd start by checking the voltage to the pump, then the current draw when the pump is running - see ELECTRIC MOTOR DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE in More Reading links above.
  2. If you have to pull the well pump check for a clogged or damaged impeller.
  3. Also have you checked that there is no burst pipe [e.g. a leaky pipe or pipe connection] or open fixture downstream of the water pressure tank?

mike said:

update to previous question, I am able to partially close the water valve to stock up on water but am only able to acheive 10-15PSI before the pump cuts out, it is steady until flow rate reaches a certain breaking point.

I can still hear/feel the pump vibrating through the well housing top even when it cuts out. I'm guessing the problem won't be solved unless the submersible pump is pulled? Please confirm.

(mod) said:

It sounds as if you are getting minimal pump output.

YOu can do the electrical checks I noted before pulling the pump;

We don't yet know if the problem is pump problems or low well water flow rate.

I suspect ultimately you'll need to pull the pump and also to check the well water level and the foot valve.

Also watch for well piping leaks

Mike said:

update to problem, Well service came out and everything tested ok. They say there is a leak after the well house. It took some investigating but there was a pipe underground at the far end of the property that had popped loose. It was a simple fix with some PVC primer and glue. I suppose I underestimated the time it takes to pressure up to 50 psi when I was trying to troubleshoot the well. Thank you for your help. Case Closed.

(mod) said:

Thanks for the follow-up mike and on reminding everyone that leaks can be tricky to locate.

Question: replaced pump and lots of parts but we still have no water.

Hello! So my old pump died. so i got a new one. replaced it with a Unti-Tech Convertible Jet Pump.

It worked and then stopped. now the pump is new and has new Piping to the well. New pressure gauge. The well seal is new. The Hose is cleaned out and the jet is new with long jet inserted into it. A new foot valve.

My pressure switch is 40/60 and My bladder tank is at 38.5 psi. I replaced everything from pump to well I have NO WATER!! the pump is a 2 hole jet pump.Ive filled the the hoses at the top of the well seal up with water and primed the pump as well each time. Ive checked the wring to the pressure switch and haven't adjusted it at all due to it being preset to my bladder tank.

Could it be a broke pipe to the house?
Thanks in advance

Reply:

Could be a broken pipe between well and house, but I'd try priming the pump more effectively using our garden hose method if you have a close neighbour.

See PRIME the PUMP using a GARDEN HOSE as a place to start.

Question: water pressure keeps declining

(July 7, 2015) Sherry said:
Hello, we have a well and for the last week the water pressure kept getting less and less, my fiance found that one of the outdoor faucets had a leak and replaced it, the next day we had water and then within an hour no water at all. I am by myself my fiance is at work for long hours and there is no professional available for a couple of days, I need water or all of my plants are going to die. Please advise.

Reply:

Sherry if your running water has exhausted the well it may recover n 24 hours of little or no use. But if you ran the pump while dry it may be damaged and u able to deliver water.

Question: run out of water when watering plants

20 July 2015 Anonymous said:
water plants for 1 hour no water inside house turn water off and water comes back on why

Reply:

You are running your well out of water or a pump motor is overheating and shutting off on thermal reset (or something else I've not considered)

Question: how to get a longer pump on-cycle

5 Aug 2015 Josh ( Mountain Well Water) FIXED!! said:

Thanks for all the help guys!! The first pump was tested and had a mechanical malfunction. The second one had a bad injector. The power to the well house was always turned off unless a test was being ran. Furthermore I was rewarded with a full refund on first pump and the second pump I was rewarded with exchange.

After this I decided to do a shallow well attempt instead of deep well. I now have 1 pipe to the house (discharge tee placement) and a pipe from the pump( Injector On assembly) to well. After this I took off the additional pipes and have foot valve and cycle stop valve with control box installed,(3 way) 30\50 pressure switch, (on pump instead of hose line to switch) and the bladder tank at 28.5 psi.

After using the blue glue I made a final check of the 2 pipes and all connections and made my electric connections secure. I primed the pump and did a operation test. i did get to 10 psi on first attempt. After 82 gallons of priming water I can now say i FIXED IT and working GREAT :-) :-)!

Now I do have a question. Can I do a longer cycle? Example: 30 psi cut in/on and 55 psi cut out/off?? Now with all my issues fixed I would like to look out for "short cycling". I wanna say thank you to everyone for the help and a special thanks to DanJoeFriedMan for sticking in there with me! Hope to hear from you soon!

Reply:

Nice going, Josh and thanks for the follow-up.

You can get a longer pump on-cycle by

- installing a larger pressure tank

- spreading the cut-in and cut out pressures as you describe. Just don't set the cut-out higher than the pump can achieve, and when setting the cut-in down lower check that your building water pressure remains adequate on the upper floors.

30/55 is within the range of most pumps. You could even go to 20/50 or 20/55 if pressure is adequate at the low end.

Installing low flow rate plumbing fixtures will also slow your water usage rate and give the pump and well a bit of a break.

(July 27, 2015) Joshua (Well Water) said:

So I Got the water running. The Discharge Tee on top of the pump had to turned down to set flow. Also Pressure switch had sediments in line. Now as i got the water back on i had some faucet issues in kitchen and bathroom. I took the kitchen hose off and cleaned out the head of the handheld.

As for the bathroom. The toilet had some trash in it so i bought a new Korky Quiet Fill to replace. for the shower/tub. I Have a old 70s set up it has a new retractable shower head and new tub faucet but the water cut on is a round stem u could say. So Now the hot works great but the cold doesn't it runs but slow.

Clogged line? Air lock? FOR THE GRAND FINALE! As I was trying to fix this issue the water stopped!! The pump wont cut on!

All Pressue is at 0 in home. Did the step by step check and will still not come on. Could a new pump go bad this quick? burnt up? Thanks for the help in the last post and thanks for all in this one who helps

(July 27, 2015) (mod) said:
Thanks for the update Joshua.

It's no surprise that faucet strainers or toilet fill valves and shower heads would have been clogged, and usually an easy clean-up fix.

When hot pressure is good but cold flow rate is poor we can but guess that there is a clog at a pipe elbow or valve. It's not air lock as water pressure would force air through the lines and out at the nearest plumbing fixture.

Subseqent loss of all water pressure suggests further debris clogging. If your water source is silty even a new pressure swtich could become clogged rather quickly.

(July 30, 2015) Josh ( Mountain Well Water) said:

First of all I wanna say thanks for all the help. I redid a complete well pump with piping, pressure switch, pressure gauge, discharge tee with pressure indicator (Water tube from pump to tee). Replaced my 1970s shower/tub valve with a new one and all new fixtures.

After installation I did a pressure check for all faults and to check gauges for correct psi levels cut on and off with the 38 psi tank pressure and a 40/60 cut off. This was correct and works great. This morning I woke up and it was again fine.

Then I put on a load of laundry and after water cycled I was makin a bath for my children. the water pressure was giving out! I quickly ran to see the gauge in the basement near bladder tank and it was falling to 0.

The pump was VERY HOT at the pump house and it was doing the same but didn't go to 0 but stayed up about 0 due to the water pump pressure. I have several cut off valves thru the house One at pump house on line to the house. next is the one at the bladder tank.

next is at tee that goes to basement bedroom and rest of house. for the next one is at the water heater. lastly I have two on the cold and hot right under the bathroom which I installed just yesterday for further access and easier cut off for that room.

So in a nutshell i have all room with water I can cut off. I checked all of these to make sure no leak, or block was the problem.

So my question now is how come by pump is getting hot?

the pump house itself is about the size of a good size shed (Sorry don't have exact measurements) and the old pump didn't never just get hot. Now I did remove the pipe foam when installing this new pump. So the pipes are exposed but I do belive thats only for winter??? So what do i do? more air flow?

aim fan on pump? My well house has good installation in the wall I have a battery powered LED light and radio mounted in wall so its not to shabby and as for the rest is just ground and the well. So whats my options? New pump due to overheating? For adequate air flow? or ? thanks again!

(July 30, 2015) (mod) said:

Watch out: SHUT OFF THE PUMP if you have not already done so, so as to avoid burning it up.

f the well has lost prime the pump can run dry, hot, and may be damaged, thence losing the ability to pump water. I'm assuming this is a 1-line or 2-line jet pump.

I can't quite guess if the problem is the well running out of water (poor flow rate) or a piping leak, bad foot valve, loss of prime. I'd start by checking the pump to see if the pump housing is full of water or empty.

I'd also check the voltage being delivered to the pump (low voltage can cause trouble for some motors)

The fact that you've had previous debris problems could indicate

- low water in the well, poor flow rate, or a damaged, leaky well casing

- clogs at controls and switches

(July 30, 2015) Anonymous said:

Thanks for all the help guys. Pump housing is full. Voltage is good. checked the new well seal and no leaks there or on pipe. discharge tee has what looks like leak but may be sweat from heat. its 90 where I am now and the building is probably about 100+.

the pump and water heater is turned off until i get i narrow it down more.

so with water in housing and voltage good where does that leave me? As before all the components from pump to well is new. Can i upload pics or videos? It might help.

(July 31, 2015) (mod) said:
Josh use the CONTACT link at page bottom to send us some photos. My email is there.

An electrician would at this point check the current draw of the pump for a clue about a motor problem causing high current causing overheating.

(Aug 3, 2015) Josh said:

To begin with I wanna say this becoming a nuisance!! The old pump burned up, now my new pump died!

I got a new 1/2 hp this time. After the install it gave 20 psi to the house. so I checked the all the lines again under the well seal. Making sure to replace a already new but 3 month old foot valve. Making sure all connections was correct and leak proof.

After this put it all back together and did a re test. Now it's below 20 and the pressure is jumping The pressure switch isnt jumping but almost like not enough to get to pressure switch.

After cutting it off u can hear the water going back and forth. So Im back to no to VERY little pressure/water help? I did a measure depth test also. My well is 40 Ft with 33 foot of water leaving 7 foot from seal to top of water.

(Aug 4, 2015) (mod) said:
Josh,

Certainly it's worse thatn a nuisance.

STOP just replacing pumps. It sounds as if there is either a control problem or the well is running out of water. You cannot allow a pump to keep running dry or it will be destroyed.

There are several approaches to protecting a pump from burn-up: a tailpiece in the well that recirculates water through the system for submersible pumps, or a pump protection switch that operates at the pump above ground.

A 33 foot static head in the well is about 150 gallons of water that can be pumped. After that quantity you are running on the flow-rate of water into the well. You may need to do a well flow test.

See

inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Pump_Protection_Switches.php

and see

inspectapedia.com/water/Well_Flow_Test.php

(Aug 5, 2015) Josh( Mountain Well Water) FIXED!! said:

Thanks for all the help guys!! The first pump was tested and had a mechanical malfunction.

The second one had a bad injector. The power to the well house was always turned off unless a test was being ran. Furthermore I was rewarded with a full refund on first pump and the second pump I was rewarded with exchange.

After this I decided to do a shallow well attempt instead of deep well. I now have 1 pipe to the house (discharge tee placement) and a pipe from the pump( Injector On assembly) to well. After this I took off the additional pipes and have foot valve and cycle stop valve with control box installed,(3 way) 30\50 pressure switch, (on pump instead of hose line to switch) and the bladder tank at 28.5 psi.

After using the blue glue I made a final check of the 2 pipes and all connections and made my electric connections secure. I primed the pump and did a operation test. i did get to 10 psi on first attempt. After 82 gallons of priming water I can now say i FIXED IT and working GREAT :-) :-)!

Now I do have a question. Can I do a longer cycle? Example: 30 psi cut in/on and 55 psi cut out/off?? Now with all my issues fixed I would like to look out for "short cycling". I wanna say thank you to everyone for the help and a special thanks to DanJoeFriedMan for sticking in there with me! Hope to hear from you soon!

(Aug 6, 2015) (mod) said:
Nice going, Josh and thanks for the follow-up.

You can get a longer pump on-cycle by

- installing a larger pressure tank

- spreading the cut-in and cut out pressures as you describe. Just don't set the cut-out higher than the pump can achieve, and when setting the cut-in down lower check that your building water pressure remains adequate on the upper floors.

30/55 is within the range of most pumps. You could even go to 20/50 or 20/55 if pressure is adequate at the low end.

Question: Private well has completely quit in the house and low water pressure outside

(May 6, 2015) Donna said:
My private well has completely quit in the house when I am filling water tanks outside for my livestock and the pressure is very low outside when filling the livestock tanks.

When I turn off the outside water and go back in the house and turn water on, it spits and is weak for a few seconds then goes back to where it always has been in the house. I used to be able to fill livestock tanks and have running water in the house so what has happened?

Reply:

Donna

It may be that the well flow rate has deteriorated. But there could also be a leak in well piping anywhere in the system or a damaged pump or even low voltage to the pump.

Start by determining that there is electrical power to the pump.

Question: no water unless I run two taps

(Sept 16, 2015) dave said:
Having problems with pressure pump. No water coming out of tap unless I turn on two taps at once. Once flowing it will turn pump on and off.

Reply:

Check for a pressure control switch that needs replacement - perhaps it's not turning on the pump.

Question: no water for our pets and I don't hear the pump

(Nov 3, 2015) Mary said:
This morning I went to give water to the pets and no water came out of the tap. I checked circuit breakers all was fine.

Went to the crawl space and found pressure gage near bladder tank read 10#. I don't know where to start looking for the problem. I do not hear pump.the pump is most likely age of the house which puts it at 24 yrs. the pump is submersible. Can you give me an idea of cost to replace and install new pump.

My location is central NJ. The bladder tank and switch were replaced about ten years ago. Could the gage be wrong, I ask as there is some rust forming, it's damp in the crawl space.

Reply:

You need some diagnosis before replacing anything: the problem could be lost power, an open switch, a broken wire, a bad pressure sensor, bad switch, bad pump, or loss of well water.

An on-site experienced well plumber can help sort that out, or you can look at common causes of the problem you describe by searching InspectApedia.com (search box at page top or bottom) for LOST WATER PRESSURE or NO WATER PRESSURE and you'll see an organized list of things to check.

Question: new pressure switch but no water pressure

(Nov 18, 2015) Alvin said:
if the tank pressure was checked and found to be less than 2psi. If the pressure control switch and pressure gage is changed and power is re-established but nothing happens could that be because the tank has to have higher pressure to activate the contacts on the pressure switch?

Reply:

If the water system pressure is below the cut-in pressure set at the switch then the switch should turn on the pump. But your pump may have lost prime. See WATER PUMP PRIMING PROCEDURE

Question: no water pressure after changing the water heater elements

(Jan 31, 2016) Anonymous said:
had to change hot water elements, turned water back on and filled up hot water tank, now neither cold of hot water have pressure, when turned on faucets at first alot of air came out and like i said no pressure

Reply:

Check for a pump that has lost prime or is not turning on at the switch.

Question: Mitzie has no water

(Aug 22, 2015) No water said:
Hello! I need help! We had a storm 3 days ago where we lost power. Our water was working fine but we didn't use much because we were at work all day long. But yesturday I went to fill a kiddy pool and do dishes and noticed I was losing water pressure.

Now I have no water at all plus my gauge says zero pressure. I first went to the breaker box and it was fine. I did flip the breaker just to reset it but still nothing. I do have a well and everything should be around 10 years old. Can you please help me? I am hoping it is something we can fix and it's not the well. Can it be the pressure tank or the pressure switch?? Thanks in advance! Mitzie

Reply:

No water after a storm often means that a lightning strike hit a well or power line or that an other electrical disturbance damaged a pump switch or controller. Rarely a lighing strike hits a well casing and causes it to split leading to loss of water (pump runs but no water is delivered in that case)

But a common problem that is easy to fix is loss of prime.

A bad foot valve in the well or check valve in the piping system leaks water back into the well. When you have power the pump cycles on and re-primes the system periodically even though this leak has been ongoing. But during a power loss the re-priming never occurs and you totally lose prime.

Search InspectAPedia.com for "HOW TO PRIME THE WELL" to try fixing this problem using one of several pump priming methods.

(Aug 22, 2015) Anonymous said:
Thanks for responding. Do you have to prime a well if the pump is submerged?

Reply:

No. In that case most common is damge to electrical parts though there cn also be a problem can be leaks in well piping or damage to a well casing caused by a lightning strikes.

Question: water pressure drops below 10 psi

(Sept 12, 2015) Lauren said:
I have been having well issues for about 5 days.

The trouble is that increasingly over the past 5 days, water pressure has been going lower than 10 psi, no water comes into the house at that point. THis is happening in the daytime starting about 7 am and continuing through about 530 to 8 pm.

The well tank is also empty at that point. We had a switch installed that will now shut down the pump at 30 psi. Today I shut off the water to the house for about 9 hours because of this problem,I noticed pressure at around 20 psi.

NO water came into the tank all day! We thought the well must be dry. Suddenly at 830 pm it started rapidly filling the tank and pump came on, by 9 pm tank was full and we had 60 psi. Now we have had nice water flow and pressure for about 4 hours.

We even did laundry and took shower etc. My question is, what could cause this? What should we do about it? Thank you!

I also meant to say, this is a continuing pattern over the last 5 days that got increasingly worse each day. I am just so perplexed because if the well were dry how could it possibly fill from NOTHING to full and 60 PSI in 1/2 hour after being empty and no pressure all day?

Also we notice that the tank when full but shut off to house, will continue to lose tank pressure How can this be if water to house is shut off? Does this mean there is a leak somewhere or ? THanks

Reply:

Lauren:

If the pump switch is not turning on the well pump then the problem is probably the switch itself, or the tube or pipe that conducts water pressure to the switch: one of those may be debris clogged.

Indeed it sounds as if the switch is clogged or sticking.

Question:

(Oct 4, 2015) satomi said:
Hi, We changed the water sensor and it seemed to work fine for a week but now it still shuts off when the water pressure is reduced. what could be another problem that is causing this to happen.

(Nov 3, 2015) Nind said:
To replace a hot water boiler, I shut off the water main empty all the water from the pipes and replace the water boiler now I have no water pressure in the entire house after replacing the boiler what could it posably be?

Reply:

Just a guess, but if you lose water pressure after turning water off in a building, and if you are on a private well system, then I suspect your pump may have lost prime due to a bad foot valve or check valve.

Question: no water in some building areas

(Feb 15, 2016) Richard M. said:
I have no cold running water but the rest of my building does.

Reply:

Sounds like a valve closed or a pipe clogged.

Question: trouble filling a large walk-in bath tub

(Mar 16, 2016) Sealevel said:
I just installed a walk-in tub. Turned faucet on. Our deep well water pump runs for awhile, and then shuts off. Pressure dial reads 0.

I push the pressure switch closed a few times and eventually it starts up and runs normally, 30 to 50 PSI.
The tub has a very large fill rate. Is my pump just too small?

Reply:

I don't know, sea level, but I suspect that's your tub fill rate exceeds the flow rate of your well. That's not a pump problem, it's a well and water flow rate problem.

Question: pump kept losing prime, now pump won't run

(Mar 17, 2016) Jason said:
The well pump was running constantly because it lost prime due to a power outage (I guess). Someone unplugged the pump to shut it off. Now we have plugged it back in, primed it, and pump wont come on at all. Tried shutting off and on breaker. still nothing.

Reply:

Jason

Please search InspectApdeia.com for WELL PUMP WON'T STOP RUNNING and also for WELL PUMP WON'T RUN to read detailed diagnosis and repair suggestions.

I suspect a burned-up pump motor or control relay.

Question:

(Mar 28, 2016) Anonymous said:
Pump runs but no water pressure...What is the problem?

Reply:

Perhaps a damaged impeller or burst, badly-leakng well piping.

Question: How to start well pump again after it stops

2016/07/12 Anonymous said:
How to start well pump again after it stops.

Reply:

Anonymous: if your well pump has stopped and won't run on its own there are two articles here that will help you out; please take a look at the following and let me know if questions remain - these articles were located by searching InspectApedia for "PUMP WON'T RUN"

DIAGNOSTIC TABLE for WATER PUMPS at inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Pump_Table.php

and

WATER PUMP WON'T START FAQs at inspectapedia.com/water/Well_Pump_Wont_Run_FAQs.php#FAQ

Chances are there is a pump protection switch that needs to be manually reset, perhaps at the pressure control switch.

Or a thermal overload switch built into the pump is shutting it off - and will re-set itself after the pump cools down.

Question: cleaned well switch points with sandpaper but still no water

2016/07/14 Melissa said:
My well has pressure gauge 40 psi and points are not in gauged. I have cleaned the points with sandpaper. But still no water in the house. What could be my issue?

Reply:

Melissa, if the pump control switch is closing and turning on the pump then the switch isn't the problem. However, sandpapering the pump pressure control switch relay contacts isn't a durable repair.

Question: every time we turn on the water hose outside we lose water in the house

2016/07/15 Michelle said:
Our well is 14 years old and we have always had great water pressure but this summer (past 2 maths or so) every time we turn on the water hose outside we lose water in the house. Any idea So?

Reply:

I suspect either reduced pump output - e.g. a damaged impeller or a leak in well piping - or less likely unless this has been a longer-standing issue, clogged piping. A leak in well piping can also produce this problem as can low voltage at the pump.

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Continue reading at WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE or select a topic from closely-related articles below, or see our complete INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES below.

Or see NO WATER PRESSURE

Also see LOW WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSTIC FAQs - water pressure is weak

Also see WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSIS FAQs - various odd water pressure problerms: comes and goes, air bubbles, other

Or see this

Water Pressure & Water Pump Article Series Contents

Suggested citation for this web page

NO WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSTIC FAQs at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to WATER SUPPLY, PUMPS TANKS WELLS

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