Septic Grinder & Sewage Ejector Pump FAQsSewage grinder pumps / sewage ejector pump FAQs - diagnostic questions & answers:
This article provides frequently asked questions & answers about buying, installing, or troubleshooting & repairing sewage & septic pumps & how they are maintained
This article series explains the differences between and gives installation and maintenance advice for Sump Pumps, Sewage Ejector Pumps, Septic Grinder Pumps, Sewage Pumping Stations, & Septic Pump Alarms. We discuss sewage grinder pump types, sizes, voltages, horsepower, installation and maintenance.
An Environment One Corporation grinder pump schematic sketch is shown at the top of this article.
We also provide a more comprehensive INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES for this topic, or you can try the page top or bottom SEARCH BOX as a quick way to find information you need.
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Questions & answers on how to buy, install, inspect, & maintain Septic tank pumps, septic grinder pumps, septic effluent pumps. These questions and replies were posted originally
at SEWAGE EJECTOR / GRINDER PUMPS - home - be sure to review that article.
SEPTIC / SEWAGE PUMP FAQs our index to all septic and sewage pump FAQs
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Tip: See details at SEPTIC / SEWAGE PUMP TYPES
I didn't know that grinder pumps were made specifically to handle sewage water. I'm glad that you made the distinction between sewage grinder and sewage effluent pumps. It's nice to know where my water is going and how it's dealt with after its use. Thanks for the information! (Apr 14, 2016) Hazel Owens
How you tell the difference between a grinder pump and an ejector pump? (Mar 15, 2016) Tracy
Reply: Effluent pump handles clarified effluent not large solids; grinder pump grinds and pumps solid sewage waste, feces, toilet paper.
Hazel:
Indeed pump names can be confusing because manufacturers may offer models that are in a sort of "limbo" land between a true sewage grinder pump and a pump designed to handle effluent or water only. But basically, yes, if a pump is to handle toilet waste, it needs to be a grinder pump.
Too often people install a pump with less ability to handle solids and it clogs up and gives trouble.
Sure Tracy, thanks for asking.
People often mix up or use these terms interchangably and in error, even some plumbers. Speaking correctly,
A sewage grinder pump is able to pump actual sewage, that includes feces and toilet paper by grinding the sewage to a slurry that is then pumped to a destination -either a public sewer or a private septic tank.
An ejector pump is designed to pump only clarified effluent - that is, liquid, NOT solids. Typically an ejector pump is used to pump liquid effluent out of a septic tank pumping chamber up to an effluent disposal system such as a septic drainfield or soakaway bed found in a private septic system.
An ejector pump might also be used at a laundry to pump graywater up to a public sewer or private septic system or private drywell.
For completeness, a "sump pump" is intended to pump only water, such as groundwater seeping under a basement floor slab up to a groundwater disposal system such as a pipe that discharges to an approved storm drain (not allowed in some jurisdictions) or to a drywell, or to an area of surface runoff.
Typically a sump pump is used in a basement or crawl area de-watering system. On occasion we see someone using a sump pump to pump laundry sink graywater.
For details see
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Email: Julie @baxter-mason.com regarding water hammer due to a septic lift station. When the pump quits pumping, liquid flows back thru the check valve causing the water hammer. How to correct this?
We have a water hammer due to a septic lift station. How can we correct this? When the pump quits pumping, some liquid flows back thru the check valve causing us to hear the water hammer.
Julie
You need to replace the check valve; at that time be sure that the new check valve is properly selected for the lift height.
I installed a grinder pump..when the pump is running too much noise is comming.. what is the solution to avoid noise On 2020-09-21 by Prapanch
Explanation by (mod) -
Prap
First you'll want to examine the pump and mount and the container for loose fittings or abnormal vibration as we need to know that the pump is working normally.
Note that a clog, improper mounting, or other snafus can cause abnormal pump or motor noises.
These noises vary; for example a jammed impeller may produce a humming sound (turn off the system immediately to hope of avoiding a motor burnout) while loose mounts or hardware tend to make rattles or vibration sounds.
If necessary identify the pump brand and model and give the manufacturer a call to ask what's normal noise for that particular model.
Second, if the pump is working properly your options are to enclose the pumping chamber in a sound isolating box (insulation, foam board, etc.) or to replace it with a quieter model.
My new ejector pump makes a thumping noise after it ejects sewage On 2020-05-21 by Gerard Schenck
by (mod) - bad check valve at sewage pump or loose mounts
Perhaps water hammer at a noisy check valve.
But also look for a loose pump tassembly hat's rotating at start and stop.The torqe forces of an electric motor and pump assembly starting and stopping can cause loose pump assembly or other parts to move.
Beware that such movement can cause a leak
(Apr 4, 2015) Sheldon said:
Our grinder pump makes a humming noise after it got done pumping, so I unplugged it.
It pumped fine and then I could hear a humming noise, I unplugged it and it stopped and plugged it back in to see if maybe it was just stuck or could reset itself, but it still
hums. I don't want to flush try and start the pump in case it doesn't work. Any ideas?
Reply:
Perhaps the pump shutoff switch is not working and the pump is running dry - which would not be good for it.
Watch out: if the pump impeller is jammed OR if the motor's start capacitor has failed, that, too, can cause a humming noise without the motor running. TURN OFF the pump immediately to avoid burning up the motor or causing an unsafe electrical fault.
See ELECTRIC MOTOR DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE
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I have A Liberty 380 and the discharge connection where it connects in the cover is spraying out inside the basin while discharging?
Is that normal? The top has no wAter coming out and is contained and working properly but not sure how the factory connection is made to the cover where it could leak upon discharge? Can someone advise a remedy for this. On 2020-06-28 by Jeremy K
Explanation by (mod) -
Jeremy
No that sounds like a leak, possibly combined with a blockage oir a stuck check valve that needs to be repaired.Look at the sewage pump outlet: if waste is flowing freely when the pump cycles on then the problem may simply be an improper connection of pipe to sewage pump at the cover;
But if the flow is weak or stopped, then there's a blockage or a stuck check valve. - Daniel F.
My ejector pump is spraying water out of the cover and flooding my laundry room when I turn the utility sink on!
We have had a LOT of rain this past week. How can we fix this? Do we need to call a plumber out? On 2019-05-03 by Jennifer
by (mod) - ejector pump is spraying water out of the cover
Sounds like a blocked drain line or bad check valve.
But
Watch out: if your ejector pump is trying to send waste to a septic tank that has been flooded due to groundwater leaking into the tank or flooding the drainfield, then your septic system is in failure.
I have a sewer pump that pumps from my septic tank to city sewer. Now the water is coming up on top of the septic tank. Thinking pump wasn't working called plumber, they told me to call electrician. Said motor wasn't getting power.
They fixed a wire problem at breaker switch. But water is still coming from top of septic tank. Thinking it may be a stuck float but I had asked the plumber about that and he said motor was working. Any suggestions. On 2020-05-10 by Pam
by (mod) - leakage around septic tank when the pump runs?
Pam
We need people who are trying to help you report actual observations. Not speculation.
If the pump runs but liquid level does not fall, the pump could be damaged or its outlet blocked, or, less common, the inflow exceeds pump capacity.
Why would my grinder pump leak only when my wash machine drains? On 2020-03-26 by Jason
Explanation by (mod) -
Perhaps its its a partly blocked drain combined by the added surge of wastewater when the clothes washer is draining.
There is clear water seeping around the grinder pump tank. I have a commode that is constantly running and needed flapper replaced. Would this cause the problem? On 2019-08-06 by Linda Cunningham
Answer by (mod) -
A running toilet would make your sewage pump work overtime but if the pump is still working and not burnt-up I suspect the problem is elsewhere: perhaps there's a leak in piping or there's condensate forming on piping or on the pump chamber where it's above floor level.
Hi, Our township is starting the process of installing a grinder pump system. Once it is in, of course, we will have a monthly sewage bill.
The pump and the tank will be in the ground outside. Are these water tight or will ground water be able to enter the tank and make the pump run, "pumping" up my sewage bill? (I'm not sure yet if our bill will be based on usage or a monthly set fee.) Thanks. (June 29, 2016) Bill
Reply: no
The pumping chamber for your grinder pump tank should be water tight.
Allowing surface runoff or ground water to leak into a pumping chamber will flood the septic system or sewer system and may well also burn-up your pump or back-flood into the building.
More examples of this problem are
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Tip: See details at SEWAGE PUMP MAINTENANCE
How to I drain the overflowing sewage so I can get to the pump and float? On 2020-06-27 by frankocorso
Explanation by (mod) - Sewage Grinder Pump Regular Inspection & Maintenance
Watch out: Typical grinder pump owners guides warn that you should not try to repair the system yourself. If you're not properly trained and equipped there are health and safety hazards such as risk of electrical shock or fire, or exposure to sewage pathogens that could make you seriously ill.
Your service tech might be able to use a pony pump or portable pump to lower the liquid effluent enough to get to your sewage pump but I think if I were faced with that dilemma I would Ira septic country to come and pump the tank out and removed as much sewage as possible.
While you've got the grinder pump open that's a great time to have your service tech both inspect the system and to perform regular maintenance.
Posted by the Hamilton Township Municipal Authority, here's an Environment One E-One Sewer Pump Owner's Guide [PDF] - local backup copy saved as E-1-Sewage-Pump-Owners-Guide.pdf
More instructions and manuals are at SEWAGE PUMP BUYERS GUIDE & MANUALS
I will be leaving the house vacant for six months. What should I do to maintain the system? Should I manually fill it, use Rid Ex and unplug? (Oct 12, 2015) Becky s
Reply:
Watch out: Unplugging the grinder pump would prevent motor burn-up should some other failure occur that caused the pump to run continuously when no one is home, but as long as electrical power to your home is being left on, you should leave power to the grinder pump on as well.
That will handle more subtle events that can avoid a flood in the building such as a running toilet or a dripping faucet, or use of sink or toilet by someone who comes into the home to check on it while youyr'e gone.
It might be nice to run enough fresh water through the grinder pump that it cycles a time or two to clean and then (mostly) empty the pumping chamber.
Watch out: I would not add any chemicals or treatments.
Rid-X is a root killer that has nothing to do with grinder or septic pump maintenance.
John said:
Are chemicals used in sewage pump systems to dissolve solid waste?
Reply:
Not normally, John. Certainly not in regular use.
The sewage pump uses a grinder to macerate solids that are then pumped out along with the wastewater.
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I'm having ejector pit installed. Plumber states the style of pit has to be 2 inches above the floor.
Says keeping it flush to floor has changed so people wont treat it as a floor drain. Is this right? On 2020-06-14 by C.C.
by (mod) - your Plumber is mistaken according to the manufacturer's schematic for sewage pump installation
CC
Thanks that's an interesting question and not an assertion I've come across in any of the instructions for the sewage pumps that I have installed.In my OPINION I suspect the plumber doesn't want to keep digging, or may have to run into a problem with mis-use of sewage pumps or with people confusing a sewage pump with a sump pump.
Let's skip over OPINION and look at what the authorities say - in the manufacturer's installation manual such as those at
SEWAGE PUMP BUYERS GUIDE & MANUALSShown here is a typical ejector pit and pump installation drawing from a Grundfos manual
You'll see that the manufacturer puts the surface of the pit flush with the floor.
Let's not have a fight with the plumber, but if she'll agree to install as per the specs of the manufacturer of your specific ejector pump and pit brand and model, that'll be the end of debate.
Hi, Two years ago we installed a full bath by our pool. The house is 4 years old.
We recently had a leak in our outdoor shower (I called a different plumber)..
He stated that the lift station line (located on the exterior of bathroom wall) ran towards the street but into our house DWV system. (The wall is where our kitchen and laundry is located).
He said this was not done correctly and that they should have ran the line all the way to the other side of the property under the driveway.
He then CUT the cord of the grinder because he said they had shoved it into the outlet....(which it was crooked and shoved but we specifically told him to leave everything as is so we could contact the people who did the work.) He then quoted me $10k.
Is this true. - hat a lift station/grinder should NOT be hooked into your house DWV system?
And lastly, is it easy to splice a new chord?
Please educate me. Located in Texas.
Thank you sincerely! On 2020-05-23 by Shana Holmes -
by (mod) - Plumber cut wire to septic pump and offered a $10,000 repair
Shana:
In my opinion you are being told some strange stuff.
1. I can't make sense of what he told you. If the grinder / lift pump from the outdoor bath was previously working successfully having been connected to your existing house DWV system then it was fine.
2. Hearing that a plumber cut the line cord to the lift station "because the outlet was crooked" sounds absolutely crazy to me, and downright dangerous.
It also sounds as if he wanted to leave your system disabled to try to push you into an expensive job that may be completely unnecessary.
I would not let that plumber back onto the property, ever.
Call someone else to fix your leak and repair the wiring for your lift pump.Yes the pump line cord can be repaired or replaced.
Watch out: if you are not familiar with safe electrical wiring you could be shocked or killed
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Hi Dan, we added a bathroom while finishing our basement this February/March with a vertical Liberty Pro380 series grinder sewage pump.
The toilet flushed in a strange way today, like it sucked in water then spit back some with a bit of air.
It appeared to be clogged, but plunging it did nothing, so I checked the pump and it's not functional at all. I've tested the electrical on the switch with a lamp and confirmed it's working, and when I bypass the float switch and plug-in the pump directly it doesn't run at all.
The toilet that flows into this pump is overfilled, so I don't want to open it up and risk overflowing sewage onto the floor.
Any ideas? I can't believe the pump has failed after only 2.5 months, it's unbelievable.
Here's a photo of the Liberty Pro380 grinder pump unit [shown above], if helpful. On 2020-05-22 by Kevin L - L
by (mod) - what to check if the grinder pump or lift pump is not working
Six Steps to take if the Sewage Grinder Lift Pump Won't Run
- Power: confirm the pump is getting electrical power
- Float Switch: check that the float switch is free to move - not jammed
- Wastewater level: verify that the wastewater level is high enough to activate the switch
- Pump impeller jammed or damaged: if the pump motor hums but won't start or runs for a moment then stops, or if the motor runs but the pump does not pump anything, check for a clogged or broken pump impeller at the pump inlet.
- Switch replacement: if those steps don't fix the trouble, and if the pump won't run, try replacing the switch
- Pump motor diagnosis: If steps 1-4 are done and the pump will not run when the switch is activated the pump may need replacement.
Watch out: But before replacing the pump motor double-check that its impeller is not clogged or jammed, preventing pump operation.To check your pump motor see ELECTRIC MOTOR DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE
I'm assuming that it was working previously that no one changed any wiring.
You confirmed that the pump has electrical power and you confirmed that the pump simply doesn't run regardless of the position of the float switch.
With a float switch bypassed and the pump refusing to run I have to think that int that case it may be time for a warranty claim.Contact Info for Liberty Pumps
Give Liberty Pumps a call at 1-800-543-2550.
Email: Liberty@libertypumps.com
Liberty Pumps Co.,
7000 Apple Tree Avenue,
Bergen, NY 14416 USA
If you don't have it you may want to download the
LIBERTY PUMPS PRO-380 PUMP IO MANUAL [PDF]
But I must say the "troubleshooting" advice in the manual itself is worthless - here is what it says:
Always disconnect pump(s) from power source(s) before handling or making any adjustments to either the pump(s), the pump system, or the control panel.
Refer to the Maintenance and Troubleshooting sections provided in the supplied pump, control panel, alarm manuals as applicable.
For further questions, contact customer service at 800-543-2550 or support@LibertyPumps.com.
Perhaps the company provides different information with the pump than in their downloads section.Follow-up by Kevin L - Sewage Pump Repair Success: jammed Liberty Pro 380 Grinder Pump
This is a follow-up after fixing the issues I discussed with Dan here on 5/22. We had a plumber come out today and look at the issue with the Liberty Pro 380 series grinder pump in our basement.
Beore he arrived, I plugged the pump into a non-GFCI outlet and noticed a faint humming sound.
The outlet for the pump is a CFGCI/GFCI outlet. When connected to the CFGCI outlet, it did NOT produce the same noise.
Watch out: I only did this very briefly to avoid frying anything.
I checked the manual, and suspected that it was probably jammed with something.
Then the plumber arrived, removed the pump and float and found a heavy paper towel jammed in the impeller. He told me that this voided any warranty, and that I needed an entirely new pump installed because the paper towel was coiled all around the inside of the motor and could be taken out.When I asked if we could remove the paper towel, he defensively said no which seemed odd. So I told him to take a 5 minute break, and I threw on some rubber gloves and less than 30 seconds later a single paper towel was removed the impeller. We brought the pump outside, and it ran perfectly.
At this point he begrudgingly put the pump back into the sump pit and told me that the float was broken.
This seemed odd to me because this unit is 2 months old and the float looked fine to me. So again, I put on gloves and tried it myself and it worked perfectly fine.
He resealed the PVC pipe that he cut to get the pump cover off and left me with a bill of $612.50. I asked about the cost, and it was $175/hr.
I fully understand that plumbing is a difficult job and that there are many things I can't do, but I want to share this message for others out there: there is absolutely nothing wrong with asking questions to understand why something is broken, especially when you're asked to replace parts and systems that cost hundreds and potentially thousands of dollars.
I did this twice today, and although $612.50 is too much in my opinion, it's a lot better than the $1500 I probably would have been charged had I not asked questions and got my hands dirty.
Thanks Dan F for the advice, many of the responses you provided others here helped provide me with the confidence to question these recommendations from the plumber today.@Kevin L,
Correction: "...could NOT be taken out..."by (mod) - Sewage Pump Repair Success: cleared blockage in the impeller
Kevin
Thank you very much for the follow-up as that will certainly help other readers.
And good going on the sewage pump repair success.
Bottom line: when the grinder pump stops working see if there's a clogged pump impeller, AND, don't keep trying to run a humming pump (nor any other electric motor that's humming and not spinning) as doing so is likely to burn-up the motor - or worse.
Shame on that plumber. I'd expect the plumber to have a reasonable minimum charge for a service call and to make that figure high enough that he'd not be tempted to gouge the client. A second possibility is this: a homeowner (or you or I) might "take a chance" on clearing and continuing to use a grinder pump and have perfectly-fine result.
But the service tech or plumber going to the site knows she'll be blamed if / when the "repaired" part fails later, and s/he doesn't want to eat the cost of a call-back. It's a variation on the OPM problem: spending other people's money to reduce your risk, explained at https://inspectapedia.com/home_inspection/Other_Peoples_Money.php
In my opinion, if you hate doing a job, don't try it as you'll be sorry, make a mess, and maybe incur avoidable costs.
But if you're interested in giving it a shot, and if you can read instructions, work carefully (e.g. avoiding getting electrocuted or developing a septic infection), at the end of the day, in my experience, you may have to buy an expensive tool that you use only once, wreck entire sub-assemblies and have to replace them, hurt yourself doing the job, and make a mess, but, at the end of the day, if you work carefully, you may have better success than if you'd hired someone as ignorant as you but who also didn't give a darn about the quality of the job.
PS: know when to stop and when to call an expert.
Is a grinder ejector pump effective in preventing tampons and other feminine products from clogging the pump? On 2019-01-14 by Tony
by (mod) - yes: you need a grinder pump with a heavy duty macerator
Tony
The answer of whether or not a sewage pump can handle tampons and sanitary napkins and wet wipes is model dependent.
Generally, unless you know that an adequate macerating pump has been installed, you should keep such products out of toilets and sewage pumps as they risk pump clogging and damage. But some commercial pumping station sewage grinders can handle such materials.But yes, you can buy a sewage pump that can handle wet wipes and tampons.
Look for a model that's described as having a "heavy duty macerator" and that may explicitly say it can handle tampons and wipes.
Those pumps, which youy'll see are quite a bit more costly than a conventional grinder pump, use either a heavy duty grinder pump that has stainless steel macerator blades capable of cutting cotton or paper products into shreds that can be pumped, or a vortex macerator that's designed to move those items.
Examples include some of the grinder pump models made by Saniflow (Sanicubic 1 VX Vortex Lift Station or Sanicubic 2 VX) and by Liberty Pumps and some Zoeller Grinder pumps; but you'll want to confirm that the specific grinder pump or vortex pump model's specifications can handle those problem materials.
Case in point, the Saniflo Sanicubic 2 VX Duplex vortex pump, suitable for commercial installations, retails for about $4,700 U.S.
Unlike a heavy duty stainless steel macerator, vortex type sewage pumps use a recessed impeller that creates a powerful wastewater flow without requiring that the waste including solids move through the impeller blades.
Be sure to read DISPOSABLE WET WIPE CLOGS
and then see complete details at
TYPES of SEPTIC vs SEWAGE GRINDER PUMPS
Hi, I have a big problem. We had a plumber come fix a few things and in our basement bathroom he said condoms got stuck and he can't cover it through our insurance etc. Is there any affordable way for me to do it myself? Thanks in advance. (Oct 8, 2015) Brendan
Reply:
Brendon: contact the manufacturer or their service rep for your pump.
Some pumps can be repaired in the field but some problems such as disassembly and recondtioning of a grinder assembly must be done by an authorized, trained service rep.
See our detailed advice at SEWAGE PUMP DAMAGE & REPAIR
I have an ejector pump in the basement where my parent say. They have a slow drain in the bathroom, can we use draino, baking soda, baking powder? (Apr 19, 2016) Diane
Reply: no but it also won't fix a clogged drain
Used at normal levels those won't hurt the ejector pump; you'll want to thoroughly flush out the system after using such products however.
See our advice at CLOGGED DRAIN DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR
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We built in a brand new subdivision and our house is just over a year old. We have had to call the sewer system 3 times to come out and fix our grinder pump. 1st time was 2 months after we moved in. The toilets were bubbling and wouldn't flush.
The technician said the tank had shifted and the float was caught between the pump and the tank.
He also said we had grease in the tank. He cleaned the tank, said the shifting tank was fixed, charged us and we paid. 2nd time was 5 months later after several hard rains the alarm was going off and wouldn't reset.
Once again came out said we had grease in the tank, said he fixed it, charged us and we paid.
Today, 3 months later, the toilet backed up and water went throughout the house. We had to tear out the carpet it was so bad. The sewer company came out water was pushing the lid of our grinder pump up, and water was pouring out the sides.
The sewer company said that the float was not working and we had grease in the tank.
We have had septic systems and grinder pumps in other house we had and have never had this many issues.
We do not pour grease down the drain, have mesh traps in the sink so food can't really go down the drain.
Is this normal? None of the other neighbors are having any issues with their pumps.
Is there something that we are doing that would cause us to have this many problems?
Do you think the sewer company really fixed the problem the 1st time? On 2020-04-28 by Brandi
by (mod) - repeated effort to fix grinder pump is like the auto mechanic who turned my Olds Cutless wheel hubs into ovals during a brake job
Brandi
I don't blame you for being both aggravated and suspicious. Sometimes the technician is actually completely honest but isn't a good communicator.Less often we come across someone who makes up nonsense for whatever reason.
Nonsense and absurd pronouncements made by dishonest or foolish people can come up anywhere, from the head of a country to a brake repairman.
After a dope mis-mounted the wheels of my 69 Olds Cutlass and turned the brake drums from round into ovals the car pulsated like mad whenever we stepped on the brakes. On a return to the shop he said "It's just dust on the shoes. Drive it a while and it'll be fine." It wasn't fine. We had to replace the brake drums.
I'd have asked the service tech at your sewer pump to "show me the grease".
It is possible that the wrong type of pump is installed - one that can't handle normal solids in sewage.
It's also possible that the same installer who did a not-so-hot job of installing the sewage grinder, such that it tipped and jammed, is also the fella who installed the sewer piping.
I'd get the sewer ejector pump fixed by someone else who knows how to fix a float switch and how to secure the tank and all other parts so that the system is reliable.
These snafus are more than costly, they risk your health.
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Sewage grinder pump that start by itself?
I have a sewage grinder pump that work well all year long in a finished basement for years.
However, in spring, the pump is sometimes working without any tap or toilet 'input'.
How is it possible? Is is possible that water from the outside get access to the grind pump holding tank (a crack by example)? (Nov 23, 2015) Jean Picard
Reply:
Jean:
Before replacing the float switch and assembly that turns the grinder pump on and off, open the cover to the pumping chamber and
Watch out: you could have ground water leaking into the system or you could have a running toilet or other drain source that you'd not noticed.
A detailed diagnostic procedure for grinder pump running when it should not can be read
I have a 20 year old ejector pump in my finished basement. It runs and performs well when called for (running water seems to work the float just fine) .
It is clear and obvious when the pump turns on and finishes its cycle (you hear that common clunk at the end of a cycle). The problem I have is that for some reason, I hear the pump making a humming noise for a few minutes then turn off, almost like it is cycling on and off but not pumping anything.
It is not pumping water/waste when it does this, just like a motor trying to engage a pump but not engaging it. If i turn on water to get the float switch kick in, it does so like expected. Is my pump going bad and needs to be replaced? Ever seen this before? On 2020-03-11 b by Doug - W
by (mod) - look for leaks into the sewage pumping pit or chamber
Doug
Yes I've see quite a few cases of a sewer pump or septic pump and even some sump pumps "run for no apparent reason".
There are a couple of possibilities but the first and most likely one is that there's water entering the ejector pit either by groundwater leaks or by back flow through the eject piping because of a leaky check valve.
Once you've eliminated those possibilities by observation I would be tempted to disconnect the float switch or even replace it.
I have city water. I also have a macerator for my upflush toilet in the basement.
I have a shower and my laundry room in the basement as well. Shouldn't my washing water and shower water and sink water go through the city plumbing?
I ask because when I'm hearing the washer or shower run also I can hear my macerator running and making it sound at the end. Why would that be? On 2019-11-12 by Christina
by (mod) - Shouldn't my washing water and shower water and sink water go through the city plumbing?
Christina I'm a little confused here so perhaps if you straighten me out I can give a more-useful answer to your question.
1. You say you're on city water: that means your water SUPPLY comes from your city. IT mentions nothing about your wastewater disposal or sewage and has nothing to do with that latter topic.
2. Your sewage disposal might be to a city sewer system or to a private septic system; perhaps you can tell us. In any case an up-flush basement toilet served by a macerator pump would be doing so because the toilet is below the level of the building's main sewer drain pipe (headed for either city sewer or private septic).
3. So what about wastewater from a basement laundry and shower? Those wastewaters area referred to as "gray water" which is a bit different from "black water" or sewage (containing toilet waste).
Depending on the country, city of location and age of your home and its surrounding land, there is a possible explanation for why your shower and laundry do not pump up via the ejector pump and thence onwards and outwards to the public sewer or private septic:
The graywater waste may drain into a local private drywell - see DRYWELL DESIGN & USES
There are two reasons a drywell may have been built:
3.1. THe home was originally on private septic system and the builders were concerned that the septic couldn't handle the added wastewater volume from basement shower and laundry so they disposed of that graywater into a drywell - reducing load on septic tank and drainfield
3.2 The basement shower and laundry were added to the home later, after original construction and the piping location and routing to get those to drain into a septic system was simply too difficult, remote, long runs, or the drains were too low (as with the toilet) so someone avoided the expense of the sewage grinder pump and just dumped the graywater into a drywell. (Which you can't do with a toilet or the drywell clogs quickly)
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We have a Liberty sewer pump and it is only 7 months old and it was only used for the last 3 months.
It won’t pump or even come on. How do we check it ? We already checked the electric - it's ok. What do we do next? On 2019-11-25 by Anonymous
Reply by (mod)- Steps to diagnose & fix a sewage pump that won't run
Anon
Watch out: if you're not trained for safe electrical work you could be shocked or killed when fooling with wiring, controls, switches.
That caveat said, an electrician or troubleshooter would
1. confirm that the circuit powering the pump is still on at the panel and where the pump is connected
2. check for a jammed or stuck float switch at the pump
3. check that the pump motor hasn't been jammed and perhaps damaged by an inappropriate solid being drawn into the pump impeller, such as tampons, diapers, dental floss.
4. check that the type and model of pump is properly-matched to how yours is being used. For example an effluent pump won't last long if asked to pump solid waste.
Liberty makes about 50 sewer pump models as well as other types of pumps. Knowing the pump model we can both check the IO manual for your pump for further de-bugging help.
EG. Here is a
The company's suggestions of
Steps to take if the Sewer Pump Won't Run
are similar to and include one more step than mine:
1. confirm the pump is getting electrical power
2. check that the float switch is free to move - not jammed
3. verify that the wastewater level is high enough to activate the switch
4. if those steps don't fix the trouble, try replacing the switch
Having constant problems with septic pump grinding system. Pump works for a week and then stops. Plumber opens system and it starts to work again. Does well for a week and freezes up again. Ongoing issue.
Does this system need to be vented to prevent a possible vapor lock or something like it. I am totally ne stumped as are the plumbers I've used. Everyone does the same thing with the same results.
Any ideas? (May 25, 2015) Judy
Reply:
I would look for
My outdoor grinder pump keeps blowing a 3 amp fuse instantly upon replacement.
Also, the pump maintenance alarm light is not working either (not the bulb, I checked it by placing it in another fixture).
Would this one little fuse keep the pump from working? What would cause both of these issues to occur? (July 26, 2015) Vince
Reply:
Vince
If the fuse is blowing it's doing its job to prevent a house fire. There is perhaps a wiring error, short circuit, wet connections, or a seized pump motor that needs to be found and repaired. I'd ask for help from a licensed electrician.
Check also that there is no blockage of the float switch or binding of the pump impeller from dental floss or qtips, tampons, wipes, etc.
That can jam the pump impeller (if your pump isn't a heavy duty macerating type grinder pump).
...
My grinder pump runs more frequently lately. When flushing toilet or washing something from kitchen/bath, it starts to run and stop several minutes later.
Looks the tank keeps close to full, can't not hold too much water. The grinder pump is 15-year old and still works fine, I just feel no more free space in tank . What do you think ? Thank you. On 2019-09-13 by Jiang
Explanation by (mod) -
Perhaps you have a failed or leaking check valve on the outlet from the grinder pump. That's a good place to start.
If the check valve is leaking or has failed, a portion of wastewater that the pump has tried to send out of the pumping chamber simply returns to it when the pump motor stops.
In turn that means that the pumping chamber has less free volume to receive wastewater from building plumbing fixtures.
That means that the pump will run more often.
A second cause that we sometimes find is that there is a source of water running into the pumping chamber that you didn't know about, such as
Our home sanitary system was installed 45 years ago with a grinder pump to send sewage 450 feet uphill to join our larger sewer line to the septic tank and field.
The 4 inch plastic pipe leading to the larger sewer line was replaced with a 6 inch pipe with two clean out places.
Now the grinder pump is turning on and off every fifteen seconds even when no water is being used in the house. Will the grinder pump for a 4 inch pipe be able to handle the job for a 6 inch pipe? (May 1, 2015) Suzanne
Reply: most likely a bad check valve OR a blocked outlet
A short-cycling grinder pump needs to be repaired before it burns out. You may have a switch problem, float problem, a failed check valve (likely) or water is left on and running into the system from a fixture somewhere.
...
My new grinder pump went out within 15 months. The manufacturing company kept telling us that the warranty starts the day it comes off the line. So I had to buy a new one. We got it hooked up after 3 months of not having one.
The pump does work now no issues with electrical but our issue is once we put it in it does not discharge the sewage to the main line. We cleaned out the sludge still nothing. Do you think that the line is clogged up. Any help is appreciated On 2019-09-08 by Teressa Lynn
by (mod) - unconsccionable warranty policy may be due to manufacturer's experience
Teressa
You might want to identify the sewage grinder pump brand and model: it's rather unconscionable that a manufacturer would define their product warranty in a way so patently obviously intended to fail to stand behind their product.Are they telling you that just sitting in the box, not having been touched by a human being, their product deteriorates? If so that doesn't sound good to me.
I can't diagnose the actual failure of your grinder pump from your brief text - as I don't know what failed; surely if your sewer line is blocked you'd know that because no pump would push any waste out of the grinder reservoir.
Watch out: a common cause of sewage pump failure is selection of the wrong pump type - one that is unable to handle the type of waste or debris it encounters; related is the mistake of flushing dental floss, sanitary napkins, tampons into the grinder pump system.My speculative OPINION is that the manufacturer's insulting and ridiculous warranty policy may stem from their frustration with failures of their pumps that they think is due to mis-use or mis-installation or mis-application.
Watch out: We learned at W&L (Marketing 101) that warranties, in many industries, are a marketing tool, but not really something that's there to protect the consumer.
...
How do I check the check valve?
Grinder pump runs in my basement and it pumps the liquid out it comes back through the vent pipe On 2019-05-13 by Jeff
Answer by (mod) -
Jeff: to check out the operation of the check valve on a sewage pump
Listen for drain-back when the pump stops running.Or open the pump chamber and watch what happens at the end of a pump-on cycle.
If, after the pump shuts down you see and hear effluent running back into the chamber then the check valve is stuck open or is not installed.
...
How would you determine if a certain material would burn up the grinder pump? My little daughter was playing with the toilet and accidentally flush a huge amount of paper and crayons. Now I have to do a huge sewer pump repair and with little experience . (June 23, 2015) Correy Smith
Reply:
A commonsense approach would be to identify any material that can enter and bind the pump mechanism and that the grinder is not designed to handle. For example Zoeller Pumps specifically says that their sewage grinder pumps (Shark series) are designed to handle anything that is normal to flush down a toilet. Basically that's feces and toilet paper.
See WHAT CAN GO INTO TOILETS & DRAINS? for complete details.
Unless your sewage grinder pump was a heavy duty macerating pump or a vortex type pump, flushing tampons, dental floss, high levels of powdered laundry detergent, kitty litter, string, are examples of stuff that can do damage by jamming the pump inlet or jamming the pump impeller assembly.
The underground drain pipe to my new tank and sewage pump grinder was damaged (broken right off by one of the subs).
At the break, a flow of waste water and sand/gravel was feeding into the tank until the point that about 10 feet of the drain pipe (still connected to the tank) was filled solid with sand and gravel. This may have been happening for a couple of weeks without our knowledge until the water backed up. I am concerned about the tank and pump grinder. What should we do? (July 5, 2015) Peter
Reply:
Peter
The gravel-clogged pipe needs to be cleared or removed and replaced or the system will surely not work properly. It might be worth finding a plumber with a camera to scope the line.
Reader follow-up:
Thank you for your quick reply. Wow!
So...We did clear out the gravel-clogged pipe (had to as the house backed up).Every where I read (including your site), it says to not get sand/gravel/aquarium stones/etc. into the tank or through the grinder. We have had loads of sand and gravel going through the system now. I am more concerned about the sand/gravel in the tank and the life expectancy of the pump. What is you advice here? I truly appreciate your knowledge and advice here.
Moderator reply:
I agree that any abrasives like sand or gravel, if they make it through the pump, are bad for it. If your pump is still working it makes sense to me to use it until it fails.
An inch or two of sand at the bottom of a septic tank should settle there and be harmless, and should be removed at the next septic tank pump-out.
On the other hand if your septic tank were an aerobic unit or if sand entered an effluent pumping chamber, as a pump would be right there with the sand, I'd go ahead and have the tank cleaned out.
Septic pumper trucks have tremendous vacuum and should have no trouble picking up solids and debris from the tank.
Reader follow-up:
One last question (I hope). What should we know when asking someone to look at the pump for damage?
It is only 3 weeks old and we want to make sure it is in new working condition.Moderator reply: be sure the right type of sewage or septic pump is installed for your application
Great question. Here are some basics:
1. Is this the right king of sewage pump and is it properly installed - right height, location, secured, wired, switched, accessible ?
2. Is there evidence of damage or malfunction in the pump itself or switch or controls etc.
Signs of malfunction besides simply not running when it should might be missing check valve(s), flow back into the tank, clogging, tipping over, or tank flooding.3. If questions 1 or 2 cite defects, what's the proper repair.
(Aug 23, 2015) Betsy said:
Septic pump not pumping water out pump does work line to drain field not clogged new pump float septic pumped out last month septic alarm keeps coming on, if I open pit where pump is and move the float pump does come on and starts pumping water out. Pump is 10 years old. It's like the pump float isn't telling the pump to come on when it should no one can seem to figure out why the alarm keep coming on .
I know it comes on because the pump isn't coming on to pump out the water and it get too high, pump float line not tangled up w/anything, if I lift the pump float the pump does come on, checked opening on pump not plugged ---very frustrating
Betsy
If you watch the pump float switch and it moves up when wastewater rises in the sump pit but if the switch doesn't turn on the pump I'd replace it.
More causes for failure of the septic pump to pump wastewater out are in the sewage pump diagnostic table at SEWAGE PUMP DAMAGE & REPAIR
Betsy says:
thanks- I had a new pump float put in,, new pump. .....
Mod Says:
So do we know if the problem was the switch? Replacing the whole pump might follow if the switch replacement didn't work.
(Oct 28, 2015) Mike said:
I have a noisy aerator. My septic company says that the bearings are wearing out, but they recommend deferring repair/replacement until they stop functioning. Is that good advice? I am concerned about stinking up my yard and neighborhood.
What we don't know is how long a screaming pump with bad bearings will continue to shriek before it stops. I'd replace it.
But if you want to squeeze out all the life you can from the pump, If you check regularly that the aerator pump is still working you should be ok
(Nov 18, 2015) Janis said:
I've heard that the "flurry" created from a grinder pump does not break down in the same way as regular sewage and can cause clogs in the septic drainfield. Is this true? Is there a way to prevent this?
Janice
I think you're referring to a slurry - of ground sewage + wastewater.
Ground sewage slurry breaks down just the same as regular sewage, though most-likely faster and more easily.
An issue to watch-out for would be sending ground sewage into a conventional septic tank that lacks a proper outlet tee or baffle: pushing ground sewage into the drainfield destroys it rather quickly. For maximum drainfield protection you'd add a septic filter at the outlet tee (also adding more maintenance).
Can laundry detergent in powdered form clog up the sewage pump? In my opinion it does but my installer says naah. We used powdered detergent, and my wife thinks more is better. Now our pump is clogged with some white crud. - John
Solid laundry detergents can form soapy blobs that clog drains or pumps;
I'd go back to liquid detergent and perhaps experiment with different brands if you don't like how the detergent smells. And I"d check with the manufacturer of your HE front loader (what's that a high efficiency washing machine?) about odors. I'm not confident that changing from powder to liquid should explain the issue.
Dosage or detergent brand or even a contamination in the system might.
(Dec 6, 2015) Shelley said:
my husband works as a installer of insulation in commercial building. My question is can over a period of time this polyester insulation he is covered in everyday cause our masarator to break from being clogged up? A reply asap would be very nice.
I don't know Shelly but it seems unlikely; you're talking about very small individual fibers. I would however recommend a filter on your washing machine drain.
2016/04/05 Thomas Guastavino said:
We have a Zoelner grinder lift pump that recently clogged with toilet paper when to wrapped around the impeller. Are there any recomendations for what type of TP is best to prevent these types of problems?
A detailed reply to this question is at SEWAGE PUMP DAMAGE & REPAIR
(Nov 7, 2015) Marie said:
We have a grinder pomp under our sink in a basement apartment we are renting. There has been an oder since we moved in.
We are wanting to know if we should be concerned for our heald. We recently had a problem with sewage coming out of our shower. The only separation from it is a box built from 1/2" press board. Thank yo
Corrections: pump, health and you
Marie both items you cite are potential health concerns and may be even more immediately unsafe:
sewer gases contain methane that can be explosive if it accumulates indoors
a sewage backup, if not properly cleaned-up, could leave bacterial and other pathogenic hazards in the building.
Notify your landlord face-to-face and also in writing of these unsanitary and potentially unsafe conditions.
(Nov 14, 2015) Chuck b said:
I have problems with my drains when there is significant rain. I my house is actually about grade level, ( crawl space below grade). Therefore there is very little drop in the drain to septic tank and the drainfield is also on this same plane.
Would installing a pump in this application appropriate?
I realize that landscaping would also help with surface water absorption but the drain system doesn't have the ability to apply much head pressure to force effluent to drainfield.
Check fie surface water or roof runoff leaks into the septic tank or flooding the drainfield
...
Tip: See details at SEWAGE PUMP ODORS
Help please! We have a duplex Liberty grinder sewge pump system and the basin located inside a "finished" basement.
The house is less than a year old. We have a lot of vapour and smell which seems to be escaping through the lid which will not sit properly on top of the basin .
It was suggested that the concrete floor is "to high" and is preventing the lid from sitting tight. The plumber has put a new gasket end sealed it with new bolts but it still leaks .
Can you recommend a sealant that can be used to caulk around the outside of the lid that will adhere to both the concrete of the floor and the metal of the lid? Of course it also has to dry or cure under damp conditions. (Oct 3, 2015) A.L.
Something is wrong with this system: a bad lid, bad gasket, damaged pump chamber.
You should not have to use a caulk or sealant on the lid. If you must, clean the surfaces and use a silicone caulk, understanding that every time you inspect or repair the system you'll have to cut away the caulk.
Why not give the product manufacturer a call to ask for advice?
We have an ejector system, sump pump and septic tank. Our house is a quad level with a half bath on the lower level.
When using the lower level toilet, about every 5th flush the kitchen sink makes a noise and there is slight septic smell. We have had a master plumber out, added a Oatey sure-vent, and have checked the venting.
There was a slight crack in the lid of the ejector pump but we caulked it. The problem continues. HELP!! Sept 20, 2015) Jerry
Reply:
Jerry:
I'd look for a sewer line blockage first. Sometimes the first few flushes are simply filling the waste pipe up to a point of blockage that is a bit far down the line. The next flush fills the line enough that the slow passage of waste past the partial blockage causes the gurgling you describe. Just guessing.
Also check for leaks in the vent system for the grinder pump.
Rotten egg smell coming from upstairs sink EVERY TIME my sewage ejector pump runs.
It is connected to my downstairs bathroom, and no smell coming from downstairs just the kitchen sink. I have flushed the vent on the roof but no joy. any tips? (May 17, 2016) Patrick
Reply:
I'd check the pump's venting piping as I suspect it's clogged, leaky, or absent.
Also follow the sewage pump piping to be double sure that there's no leak that's spraying sewage into a building cavity such as a wall or crawlspace.
...
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