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New Yorker CG-E series gas fired heating boiler at InspectApedia.comNew Yorker Boiler Manuals, Parts Lists, Wiring Diagrams
PDFs, Contact Information

New Yorker heating boiler manuals, parts lists, wiring diagrams & company contact information.

Shown at page top, a contemporary heating boiler sporting the New Yorker brand, the New Yorker CGE series gas fired unit.

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New Yorker Residential Heating Boilers: Manuals & Contact Information

New Yorker CL-series oil fired steam boiler using a Beckett burner - cited at InspectApedia.com

New Yorker heating boilers include cast iron oil-fired units in the CL (water), CI-HGS (3 pass water), and CL-Steam series heating uints.

Shown here is a CL-Steam-series heating boiler. The IO manual for this boiler is included in the list below.

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Reader Comments, Questions & Answers About The Article Above

Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.

Reader Q&A - also see RECOMMENDED ARTICLES & FAQs

On 2018-06-07 by (mod) -

Jeff,

I may have misunderstood your situation, bit if you keep the inlet valve closed to the boiler, NO water can enter the system and it will have too-low water pressure in the system, and it won't be able to purge air.

See AIR-BOUND HEATING SYSTEMS - home

On 2018-06-06 by Jeff

I have a 1991 New Yorker coil hot water boiler to cast iron radiators. I had to empty and repair the second story radiator and empty that loop. I am going attempt to refill the loop. Should I keep the inlet valve closed to the boiler on the loop and bleed the air out of the spigot right before it goes back into the boiler and then open it to the boiler when air free?

I understand all I have to do to refill the loop is turn the water back on to the boiler which is now off. The boiler is off too. Is there anything else I should know? I have my bucket and towels ready. Thank you!

On 2016-05-11 by (mod) -

VR

A tankless coil will almost always run out of hot water sooner than a typical separate hot water tank. Search InspectApedia.com for TANKLESS COIL to read details about this method of making domestic hot water.

The root problem is that the boiler is capable of raising water temperature (in the coil) by a fixed maximum number of degrees (max when boiler is at its hottest) and for a fixed maximum length of time (depending on the volume of hot water and / or latent heat in the boiler itself).

Consider that when heating a home the returning hot water heating zone water has given up a small amount of heat - the water leaves the boiler at say 180 and returns at 160F. But when making domestic hot water through the coil, the incoming water is entering at maybe 40 deg. F but trying to leave at 180F

. The lower incoming water temp in a tankless coil will always suck heat out of the boiler faster than the burner (designed for home heating not for making hot water) can put heat back into the boiler. You will run out of hot water.

There are things you can do to get the most of a tankless coil (like using a mixing valve and making the optimal aquastat settings); beyond that you'd need to modify the system such as dumping the tankless coil and going to an indirect-fired water heater.

In sum, a boiler rated for 4 GPM at the coil is not rated for 4 GPM indefinitely.

Be sure to review

New Yorker CL BOILER Honeywell L7224/L7248 SUPPLEMENTAL INSTRUCTIONS [PDF] (2020)
Excerpt: These instructions contain information for use of Honeywell’s L7224/L7248 Aquastat. These Instructions are to be used in conjunction with the Boiler’s latest Installation, Operating and Service Instructions (IO&S).

Also

See HOT WATER QUANTITY IMPROVEMENT

On 2016-05-11 by vrosario63

Dan, here is my issue and why I am asking this. I install the L7224U on my New Yorker boiler. My settings are HL 180 with a 10 diff. my LL is 160 with a 25 diff. The aquastat is install in the front prob well of the boiler.

The boiler maintains the 180 and when she calls for heat she works as it should. My issue is that I run out of DHW. My shower heads are rated for 2.5 gallons a minute of flow. My boiler is rated for 4 gallons a minute of DHW but I still run out.

I closed my cold water supply to the DHW coil about 2/3 of the way and I am now able to maintain DHM without an issue.

The tankless coil also has a prob well, should I have install the aquastat at this point? I also noticed that they did not install a flow valve on the cold water supply to my coil. I just bought the house and there are a number of things I found on the boiler that were not properly done of which I have been correcting.

On 2016-07-05 by (mod) - Look into the fire chamber

Look into the fire chamber (burner off) with a good light: for signs that the boiler is leaking into the combustion chamber;

Look all around the outside of the boiler for leaks at plumbing connections, valves, fittings;

Finding nothing in those spots it will be necessary to remove the boiler jackets to inspect it throroughly.

On 2016-07-05 by Garry leak coming from the bottom damper door of my new yorker 100

I have a leak coming from the bottom damper door of my new yorker 100 where should I start?


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