Q&A on why air conditioner or heat pump or heating air flow is too weak.
Page top photo: we're shining our flashlight into the supply air register in the floor of a New York home as one step in looking for debris, blockage, or even something as simple as a register that is closed and should have been in the open position.
This article series explains how to diagnose weak or too-warm air flow from an air conditioning or heat pump system.
InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.
- Daniel Friedman, Publisher/Editor/Author - See WHO ARE WE?
WEAK AIR FLOW: is the air conditioner (or when heating, the heating system) blower fan unit not moving enough air, so that there is too little air coming out of your air supply registers? Here is a list of things to check, in the best order.
These questions & replies about weak cooling or heating air duct flow were posted originally
Be sure to read the diagnosis and repair procedures given in that article.
Watch out: since often the cause of weak air flow at heating or cooling air supply registers is something as simple as a dirty air filter (photo above) be sure to check that first.
If air conditioner filters are clogged will it cause the thermostat to shut off? Jim
Reply:
Jim: clogged A/C filters won't cause a room thermostat to shut off. The thermostat responds to room temperature.\
However clogged A/C filters that reduce air flow, cause coil frosting, or otherwise reduce or stop the flow of cool air into the room where the thermostat is located would mean that the thermostat would remain "un-satisfied" and should mean that the thermostat says "on" - continuing to call for cooling.
See AIR FILTERS for HVAC SYSTEMS
Les said: Weak air conditioner air flow: Our A/C was serviced two months ago and the repairman said it had a leak.
$400 later it was recharged with coolant and now the ac is doing the same thing. Very little pressure coming out of vents and no cold air coming out. Does anyone know what I can do for the weekend? It is stifling!
Reply by (mod) - no
Les:
Watch out: A leak that was fixed by a re-charge is not as good a repair as a leak that was fixed by finding and fixing the leak - you'll just have to keep adding refrigerant.
Watch out: weak air flow out of the vents would not be due to a refrigerant leak; more likely a clogged filter or crushed or disconnected ductwork, or a blower fan problem.
Question, just had and HVAC tech over. The fan is working and the freon level isn't the issue. Low air flow coming from the vents and it is cool, but weak flow.
The pipe has ice on it when running and he suspects it is a blockage/resistance to the coil.
Is there a fix outside of replacing the whole unit ($11,000). Could it be anything with blocked/detached ducts?
Can a blockage to the coil be fixed? Thanks. Tom
Reply by (mod) - Is there a fix other than replacing the whole A/C unit ?
I would not consider replacing the "whole unit" unless it's very antiquated;
I've seen the air flow rate double or triple simply from cleaning the blower fan - a small bit of debris greatly reduces the fan output;
And I'd really be upset if I spent $11K on a new AHU and heater or A/C unit only to find that the original problem was a crimped, fallen, or damaged air duct. So let's inspect the whole duct system with care.
If the coil is "blocked" itself that's normal and occurs as dust and debris accumulate on the coil fins (maybe because someobody forgot to install the air filter in the system); coil cleaning service is a normal and common service procedure and costs a micro-fraction of a new system.
The only rub is if the system is very old and the coil very corroded the tech may be afraid to spray on the cleaner; (Spray, wait, vacuum up the muck).
Filter replaced blower motor replaced sucking air not blowing air? - On 2020-09-06 by Kathy
Reply by (mod) - fan is backwards
I suspect that either the motor was mis-wired or the fan was installed backwards.
Just replaced blower fan now it’s sucking air in instead of blowing it out? - On 2020-09-06 by Kathy
Reply by (mod) - look out for blower fan installed backwards or wired to run in wrong direction
I suspect that we have one of these possible mistakes, Kathy:
1. Wiring error: Most likely: the fan is mis-wired and its driving motor is actually running backwards2. Wrong fan motor: The wrong motor was purchased and even wired-correctly, spins in the wrong direction for your air handler. The good news is that many electric motors can be made to reverse direction by a simple wiring change.
3. Fan itself is backwards: The squirrell cage fan itself could have been installed backwards - it's an easy mistake and the result is it'll move almost no air. If the fan blades are facing the wrong way air flow will be weak and could reverse direction
If there is no air coming from any of the vents in the apartment and the indoor blower is running, you should check the : breaker,condensing unit,fire damper,owners manual - Johnny
Reply by (mod) - check for crushed or disconnected ductwork
Thanks Johnny
I would add a check for crushed or disconnected ductwork
A few days ago I had to trip a couple of fuses to install a new light in the hallway.
What I forgot to do was to shut the AC off while I was doing the work.
What happened next was that my condenser froze because I had shut down the blower while the AC was still running.
The condenser had accumulated so much ice that my duct system was about 80% blocked.
Had to start the heater to defrost the condenser and then set the temp bakdown to AC levels. On 2018-05-28 by Sam Manz
Reply by (mod) -
Sam
Thank you for your report of this experience. It will certainly help other readers. Your system should be okay once you defrost of the coil. Let us know what happens.
Only getting cold air pressure on one side of mobile home, replaced cross over and looked down in every register vent with mirror and light and it's clean from front to back on both sides and still no pressure but the side that works blows hard. Please I'm going nuts. On 2020-04-22 by Kristie -
Reply by (mod) -
Kristie
There may be a balancing damper closed somewhere - follow the ductwork from the point that the two sides of the home's air system split off - look for a damper lever or motor.
Is there any way that my couch is blocking the intake with this amount of space? Our motor has burnt out twice this summer.
The repair crew said this wasn't enough space and was the cause of the motor burn out.
The first motor worked for 2 years until breaking and the 2nd broke only a month after installation. Is it more likely that this is an electrical issue or is this really blocking intake? On 2020-08-24 by Joey Weng
Reply by (mod) -
I suspect there's some other issue, Joey. You've got a reasonable amount of room in front of the return air inlet.
A blocked filter or blocked return air duct might overheat the system. But I don't see that in your photo. Of course there could be an air flow blockage elsewhere in the duct system or even something as simple as a blocked dirty air filter or a dirty squirrel cage blower fan itself.
The service tech can certainly also check supply voltage and wiring.
System was working fine during cooling mode, we use gas heat and barely use the heat setting. when the weather started warming up, we turned on the cooling setting, but the evaporator fan motor runs very slow. side panel off and you can see the fan turning very slow, input wire has 20 volts. any help is appreciated. - On 2020-02-16 by Dan
Reply by (mod) -
Dan
Seeing just 20VAC on a fan circuit that normally runs at 120VAC, particularly if the input voltage to the unit is found to be proper (120VAC) suggests a bad wiring connection (corroded or a loose electrical splice) or control board or relay. There could be a low-voltage short in the unit's wiring. (Look for damaged wires, corrosion, or poor-quality after-market repair parts).
But most likely is a bad fan motor.
My LG aircon out door unit is working but no cooling in rooms. Model is H2UC186FA0
Kindly advise what could be possible problem.
Can I get schematic for outdoor unit as well. Thanks a lot.-
(May 30, 2014) Shan in Singapore.
Reply:
Shan
If the air handler is moving air but the air is not cold most likely the outdoor compressor/condenser is not working.
See the diagnostics above on this page - AIR FLOW TOO WEAKFor more broad diagnostic procedures see
- DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE A/C or HEAT PUMP - suggestions for diagnosing compressor or condenser fan and coil problems that can mean intermittent or totally lost cooling capacity of your system.
About a schematic, I too found it difficult to locate a service manual for your unit - I went to LG's support website at lg.com where the H2UC186FA0 is indeed listed, but the company says that no technical manual is available - which was a surprise.
Here is a link to the LG service manual for the H2UC series split system air conditioners
LG HVAC SYSTEMS INFORMATION & MANUALS
or go directly to the LG HVAC SYSTEM SERVICE MANUAL [PDF] at
You can contact an LG Support Representative at
1 800-822-822(National call Rate)
A few days ago I had to trip a couple of fuses to install a new light in the hallway.
What I forgot to do was to shut the AC off while I was doing the work.
What happened next was that my condenser froze because I had shut down the blower while the AC was still running.
The condenser had accumulated so much ice that my duct system was about 80% blocked.
Had to start the heater to defrost the condenser and then set the temp bakdown to AC levels. On 2018-05-28 by Sam Manz -
Reply by (mod) -
Sam
Thank you for your report of this experience. It will certainly help other readers. Your system should be okay once you defrost of the coil. Let us know what happens.
What is the ideal speed air should exit a vent? On 2020-04-02 by Mark
Reply by (mod) -
Mark
Thanks for asking a critical and very basic question: what should the air flow rate be at a supply register?
If you are cooling your home, the desirable rate of cool air flow in an air conditioning system is around 400 to 450 cubic feet per minute.
Larger air ducts routed only through conditioned space might work better with a still slower air speed in fpm.
But
Watch out: that is NOT necessarily the "right answer" for your home. There are some important and very basic variables that I'll state in a more-detailed reply.
Please find your question and my detailed reply now at the bottom of
AIR FLOW RATES in HVAC SYSTEMS
I have a 12 in. Round flex return from the outside system to fixed duct. Can I reduce this to a 10 in. In order to improve air flow throughout the system? This is a manufactured home, 1000 sq.ft. . The central air is less than 2 yrs. old, flex ducts are not crimped or ripped.
There is air flow to all returns, but I would like to increase air movement. On 2019-07-23 by David Krucz
Reply by (mod) - NO
I don't think so David. Reducing the diameter of return duct will restrict air flow significantly. It won't improve it.
Start with a clean air filter and with cleaning the blower squirrell cage fan; inspect the ductwork for kinks or blockage.
Then search InspectApedia using the search box at the top or bottom of any our pages for heating or cooling air flow improvement or start reading atAIR FLOW TOO WEAK - topic home and also be sure to read
the Master Bdr is on second floor with HVAC unit in heated/cooled basement. There are Three other bdr son second floor. Can I block some registers on the first or second floors to increase air flow to the Master Bdr. The Master has three registers and two returns. On 2017-07-30 by Bill_Thomas
Reply by (mod) - yes
Yes you can do that as long as the other rooms remain habitable.
I just moved into a home with a decent AC system. The left side of the house (living room, front room, master bedroom and bathroom the ax vents are loud, have massive airflow and cold.
The right side of the house (three other bedrooms) the ac vents blow very very weak and it doesn't seem as cold as the other side of the house. What can it be?
My two boys bedroom are warm as hell when me and the wife are freezing.
The thermostat is set to 75 and it's located by the three bedrooms on the warm side of the house and it seems to have a hard time going below 78 at times. Very frustrating! Any help will be greatly appreciated! On 2017-06-21 by Andre
Reply by (mod) -
Andre,
I would first confirm that all of the ductwork is intact and properly connected. If there are no. Problems then I would had a balancing damper to help redirect air flow to the weak side
I live in a seven year old 1600 sf double wide with a heat pump .
Half of the registers in the home provide excellent air flow no matter if I am heating or cooling while the other half of the registers provide little to no air flow at all .
Any suggestions on what I need to check . Thank You . On 2017-02-21 by Jeff in NC
Reply by (mod) -
I would get under the home and follow the HVAC ducts from the air handler onwards - guessing that as usual ducts are under the unit. You'll probably find a point at which the main line splits into two: one going to each of two halves of the home.
From that point onwards along the half of the home with poor flow you'll find the trouble: a blocked, crimped, or disconnected duct or perhaps an improperly set balancing damper.
Followup by Jeff in NC
Thank You . I'll give that a try .
Uggg SO annoyed. I have serious sinus issues and if its to dry and a/c isnt cooling enough BAM sinus infection.
I checked the vents after cutting the air down and air is coming out but barely. I know we prob need a new unit by now but we are bleeding money right now with my wifes medical problems. On 2018-05-08 by AIRnnoyed
Reply by (mod) - do not replace air conditioning equipment if the problem is too low air flow.
I would not replace air conditioning equipment if the problem is too low air flow. Usually that's something that can be corrected by finding and fixing a problem in the ductwork or a dirty air filter or a dirty blower fan.
I bought a townhome built in 2014 a little over 1600 sqft, It runs off a dual zone control system.
My current problem seems to be that I can only run 1 zone at a time efficiently. Like now for example its cold here and if I have both thermostats on the house will despite the temp setting the house will stay cold and little air can be felt coming from the vents.
BUT if I turn of 1 zone the air blows strong and heat up that zone efficiently. Same goes for cooling. I'm getting tired of switching either zone off depending on where I am in the house to be comfortable. Can you advise on this? On 2018-01-18 by Andre A.
Reply by (mod) - start by looking at the zone dampers
Andre
Your HVAC service tech will perhaps start by looking at the zone dampers to see if they are opening as they should be, then at the air handler to see if the blower fan is running and clean, and also to confirm that the air handler blower capacity is properly sized for the duct system
contractor put an overkill size heat pump in my rental mobile home.
it is only a little over 800 sq. feet. all the duct work was replaced and an air handler was installed as there was a split previously being used. strong air flow from register vents but weak air flow on return vent where filter goes.
unit does cool properly in hot weather until late at night nor does unit heat properly in cold weather.if it is 25 degrees it will only get 63 in house. On 2017-07-26 by john
Reply by (mod) - not enough return air
John,
It sounds like you've diagnosed the first problem, not having enough return air. If you checked the return ducts and everything is connected and tight end not leaking then you may need to add additional return air
Watch out though, when you get the return and Supply Air balanced, if the air conditioning system is in fact oversized you may find that it cools but it does not de humidify.
We have a dual zone HVAC. We just had it serviced with 2 lb of coolant replaced about two weeks ago.
We do have a leak of some kind. It seemed to be running fine until yesterday when the coolant line iced up at the outside compressor. We let it defrost for almost 24 hours and turned it on again today. It's been on for about 2 hours with no more icing up, but the house hasn't cooled down much - maybe 2°.
We've noticed that one vent downstairs is putting out cooler air and with a stronger flow than all other vents.
The other vents are putting out just mildly cool air and you can barely feel it coming out of some of them.
We did also recently install smart thermostats (after the tech was here) and when the tech was here he found that one of the old thermostats wasn't installed correctly so the dampers weren't working.
Could the difference in air temp/force be the dampers again and due to changing the thermostats out (by amateurs)? Or are we probably low on refrigerant again? On 2017-05-22 by Liz -
Reply by (mod) -
Liz
I'm sorry to say that if the refrigerant has leaked out in just a couple of weeks - as it sounds from your description - there is absolutely no point in adding more refrigerant - all that's doing is fouling the atmosphere and speeding the melting of the ice shelf in Antartica. Better will be to find and fix the leak before the next recharge.
If the A/C runs when the thermostat calls for cooling then the problem isn't the thermostats.
But before calling for repair again review the weak airflow items in the article above, as weak air flow can cause cooling coil icing.Followup by Liz
thanks. The one thing we hadn't done was change the filters. They were obviously clogged.
The other thing we did yesterday was sawing through drywall so a lot of dust was kicked up. We'll see how well it cools now. I think airflow has already improved. As far as finding a leak vs replacing the system would you recommend finding the leak?
The system is only 10 years old and we've recently also replaced the blower fan (dirty air filters again, maybe we've learned that lesson).
Reply by (mod) -
Thank you for the update.
keep me posted
Followup by Liz - A/C Unit froze up again
Well, it froze up again. The tech just came and it's back down 2 lbs so we have a leak search appointment scheduled. Thanks for the info! This is a great site.
Reply by (mod) - find and fix the refrigerant leak
There can be several causes of the problem but the most common is low refrigerant, Liz, as we now all seem to agree.
Some techs may want to add a "stop-leak" product if they can't quickly find the leak.That's an arguable fix as some experts warn that such products can gum up other controls or parts in the system such as the expansion valve that meters out refrigerant.
Find and fix the refrigerant leak. At this point anything else is throwing away money.
Hello there, I have a central air conditioner that froze up today.
The coils and the refrigerant line always freezes up when I set it to "cool"
I also noticed when I changed my filter that it seems there is no suction coming from the evaporator; however, the blower is working and I can feel (warm) air coming through the ducts/vents. Any ideas? On 2017-02-12 by Larry from Guam USA
Reply by (mod)
Larry, please search InspectApedia for AIR CONDITIONER ICING to see the common causes and cures (often low refrigerant and a refrigerant leak) of the trouble you describe.
When ice blocks the cooling coil indeed the system won't be able to cool air passing through the ductwork.Followup by Larry from Guam USA
Thank you so much for your reply... Even when the unit has been completely defrosted and I run the system on "on" (not cool) there seems to be no air being drawn into the coils but the blower is working and air is being passed through the vents. My concern is if the coil system is not pulling in any air on "on" mode, is this a problem?Reply by (mod) - weak air flow after fixing a coil icing problem
Sure: you want to check the items in the AIR FLOW TOO WEAK including looking for a defective blower fan - loose belt or even just dirt on the fan blades - will drastically reduce air flow as will many other defects like an open, disconnected, or leaky duct system, improper blower motor voltage, dirty air filter, dirty cooling coil.
Either low air flow rate or low refrigerant can cause frost and ice blockage at the coil.
Hi,
The fan blows very strong without A/C on, but it blows very weak when the A/C is on. So, my house is not cool enough. Can you tell me the possible reason, please? Thanks.
Reply by (mod)
I would check for low-voltage, a defective control on a multi-speed motor, or failing bearings, or if your blower is belt-driven I would check for a loose pulley or slipping belt.
You have already made sure that there's no blockage in the duct work, crimped or disconnected duct work, or a dirty air filter, right?
We have to change the air filters about once a week. Our unit is fine and the drip line is down. Home inspector and several AC companies said it's fine but yet it's barely blowing inside.\
Once we even found water in the duct work. We sicked it out and checked for leaks. There are no leaks. We've even replaced sections of the duct work. Why is it still acting like it's blocked? On 2016-05-15 by Serina
Reply by (mod)
First: it's VERY unusual to have to change air filters weekly. That suggests that there is an unusual dust or debris source in your A/C duct system, perhaps damaged fiberglass-lined HVAC ducts,.
If you still have the problem after finding and fixing that source of filter clogging then I'd ask:
Have you
1. had actual measurements of air flow at different points in the system or all of the consultants saying all is fine just expressing opinion based on no data?
2. has anyone checked for a dirty squirrel cage blower fan - dirt on the blades will substantially cut air flow
3. check for crimped, disconnected ducts or other defects listed in the article above.
Les said: Weak air conditioner air flow: Our A/C was serviced two months ago and the repairman said it had a leak. $400 later it was recharged with coolant and now the ac is doing the same thing. Very little pressure coming out of vents and no cold air coming out. Does anyone know what I can do for the weekend? It is stifling!
(mod) said: no
Les: A leak that was fixed by a re-charge is not as good a repair as a leak that was fixed by finding and fixing the leak - you'll just have to keep adding refrigerant.
But weak air flow out of the vents would not be due to a refrigerant leak; more likely a clogged filter or crushed or disconnected ductwork, or a blower fan problem.
If air conditioner filters are clogged will it cause the thermostat to shut off? - (May 13, 2011) Jim said:
Reply:
Jim: clogged A/C filters won't cause a room thermostat to shut off. The thermostat responds to room temperature. However clogged A/C filters that reduce air flow, cause coil frosting, or otherwise reduce or stop the flow of cool air into the room where the thermostat is located would mean that the thermostat would remain "un-satisfied" and should mean that the thermostat says "on" - continuing to call for cooling.
See AIR FILTERS for HVAC SYSTEMS
Question: got one for you. I put an ammeter on my air handler and it read 8.25 amps, I removed the filters and it went up to 9.75 lmao at the situation the amperage should have gone down. what gives here - Lost
Reply: causes of variations in electric motor efficiency and current draw measured in amps
Lost: this amps variation is beyond my expertise, but in general reducing the load on an electric motor will show up as lower amps or current draw, not higher amps. Here are two interesting explanations of amps or current variations on an electric motor that I found when researching the question:
1. Voltage variations and current draw at electric motors: If your supply voltage is varying from your power company that can show up as higher amps draw on the motor (though it's a suspicious coincidence to see it exactly when you removed the filters and supposedly reduced the load on the motor). Quoting from motorsanddrives [dot] com:"The effect of low voltage on electric motors is pretty widely known and ... The amount of power the motor draws is roughly related to the voltage times current (amps). Thus, when voltage gets low, the current must get higher to provide the same ... To summarize the situation, low voltage can cause high currents"
2. Load variations and electric motor efficiency: A second possible source of seeing higher amps or current draw on your blower motor when you pulled out the air filters and thus reduced the load on the blower motor might be illuminated by this U.S. DOE pamphlet "Determining Electric Motor Load and Efficiency" - Quoting:
"Most electric motors are designed to run at 50% to 100% of rated load. Maximum efficiency is usually near 75% of rated load. Thus, a 10-horsepower (hp) motor has an acceptable load range of 5 to 10 hp; peak efficiency is at 7.5 hp. A motor’s efficiency tends to decrease dramatically below about 50% load."
My house has "zone" control with dampeners to close off the upstairs over the garage room unless that thermostat is on - the room is not cooling. I have located the damper under the house. What are some causes for the damper not opening and how to repair them? condensation, motor to damper? silicon glued properly? - Becky
Reply by (mod)
Becky, If a motorized HVAC zone control damper is not opening or closing, most likely the motor has failed, or the thermostat that operates that zone control is off or set in an incorrect position.
(Feb 12, 2015) Tom Dalton said:
I was trying to find credible proof as to why there is a gap under the doors all through the house. I've tried explaining return air for the H V A C and ventilation for the bath exhaust fan to draw air from. My wife wants to close the gap at the bottom of the bathroom door. Any advise?
Reply: to improve air flow into rooms that have no return air inlet registers, just supply registers
Tom
In a house with central air returns, if you make the rooms more air tight by fitting tightly-closing doors you will certainly impede the delivery of heated or cooled air from the HVAC system - it's like trying to blow air into a balloon - you can do it, up to a point. Then your lungs just aren't up to the task. (Or you burst the balloon)
...
Continue reading at AIR FLOW TOO WEAK - topic home, or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.
Or see
AIR FLOW TOO WEAK FAQs at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.
Or see this
Or use the SEARCH BOX found below to Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia
Questions & answers or comments about air conditioner system diagnosis & repair
Try the search box just below, or if you prefer, post a question or comment in the Comments box below and we will respond promptly.
Search the InspectApedia website
Note: appearance of your Comment below may be delayed: if your comment contains an image, photograph, web link, or text that looks to the software as if it might be a web link, your posting will appear after it has been approved by a moderator. Apologies for the delay.
Only one image can be added per comment but you can post as many comments, and therefore images, as you like.
You will not receive a notification when a response to your question has been posted.
Please bookmark this page to make it easy for you to check back for our response.
IF above you see "Comment Form is loading comments..." then COMMENT BOX - countable.ca / bawkbox.com IS NOT WORKING.
In any case you are welcome to send an email directly to us at InspectApedia.com at editor@inspectApedia.com
We'll reply to you directly. Please help us help you by noting, in your email, the URL of the InspectApedia page where you wanted to comment.
In addition to any citations in the article above, a full list is available on request.