Condensate drip tray questions & answers:
Frequently-asked questions about troubleshooting, fixing, or replacing overflow pans and condensate drip collection pans and trays.
This air conditioning repair article series discusses the inspection and repair of air conditioning condensate systems, including Air Conditioning Condensate Drip Trays, Defects, and Leaks.
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These questions & answers about diagnosing & fixing problems at the condensate drip tray or overflow pan were posted originally at CONDENSATE DRIP TRAY DEFECTS
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On 2017-07-01 by (mod) leaks at Goodman Heat Pump drip pan
Look to see the leak source: if the pan is overflowing the drain line needs to be cleared; if the pan is actually perforated or leaking at a drain line connection then that point of leakage needs to be fixed. A badly damaged or leaky condensate drip pan should be replaced.
A leaky pipe joint or small pan perforation can be sealed in - place by drying and cleaning the surface before using a sealant such as silicone.
On 2017-07-01 by Johnny Freeman
I have a Goodman heatpump the drip pan starter leaking, 2days ago what can I do?
On 2017-04-21 by (mod) How to replace pan in attic
That job can be easy if the AC unit is suspended over the pan - just a simple drain disconnect and replacement of the pan and reconnection of the new drain.
But if the AC unit actually sits on /in the pan (UGH!) then the whole unit will have to be lifted. Don't let an inexperienced worker try that as breaking a refrigerant line will greatly increase the cost of the repair.
On 2017-04-21 by Bettye
How to replace pan in attic
On 2016-08-19 by (mod) Secondary pan is taking on water
If the system used to work and drain condensate properly then it makes sense to ask what's changed?
If not a partly-clogged drain that can't handle high flow rate then some condition that's causing high condensation in the air handler or condensate blowing past the drain pan.
On 2016-08-18 by Chuck
Secondary pan is taking on water because the air handler is overflowing when the blower is running. Once it. Cuts off it drains fine. There is a p-trap b4 the condensate pump. Filter is clean.
On 2016-07-24 by (mod) drain pan filled up and the unit turned off.
You need to find and clear the clog in the drain pan drain line. Most likely your system has a sensor switch that shuts down the A/C when it detects flooding in the drain pan - that's to avoid spill over and building damage.
On 2016-07-24 13:34:32.720197 by Laura
My drain pan filled up and the unit turned off. I have turned the unit off for 12 hours. How do I get it to function again?
On 2016-07-15 by (mod) Is it normal to always have an inch or so of water standing in the drip pan?
It may be common, but not good to have standing water in the condensate drip pan.
A pan that is not level nor sloped to a drain, or a pan whose drain is clogged could be the cause of this situation.
The risks include formation of harmful bacterial or other pathoghenic growth in the drain pan (Legionnaire's disease) and/or leaks into the building and related water or mold damage.
On 2016-07-15 by Sam
Is it normal to always have an inch or so of water standing in the drip pan?
On 2016-07-10 by (mod) mold caused by drip pan leaks?
Sure it could be possible Niko. A/C systems produce condensate (water condensed out of humid air). If that is not drained properly and if it leaks into ceilings or walls, it is inviting a mold problem.
On 2016-07-10 by Niko
I live in a apartment complex and I had water leaking in my bedroom. It was painted over and sheet rock replaced the falling ceiling.
I noticed what appears to be mold. My apartment is always dam and my living room ceiling has fallen in as well.
The maintenance man said a condensation pump needs to be repaired in the upstairs unit.Could this be possible? And why does my apartment smell like a month old wet basement.
On 2016-07-10 by (mod)
Sounds as if condensate is not draining to a proper drain location. Watch out for water damage and mold growth.
On 2016-07-09 15:09:08.651221 by Anonymous
Why would my heat pump have water forming around it and down on duct work under the house
On 2016-07-05 21:30:39.274641 by Tina
Does anyone know if drip pans are normally replaced when a new HVAC system is installed?
On 2016-06-03 17:57:37.893206 by (mod)
Any time someone says the've done the same repair repeatedly I consider that a red flag that something's wrong or missing. I don't know if the replacement was incorrectly done or if the problem lies elsewhere such as a blocked condensate drain or condensate blowing off of the blower into ducts and not into the drain pan.
On 2016-06-03 14:21:45.581493 by Bill
I have had drip pan replaced three times on a unit that is less then ten years old, air filters are always washed, and cleaned. There is hardly any wind resistant's with filters, what could be causing this issue, the furnace is an Amana 90% energy efficient and about eleven years old. Any ideas, or suggestions. The repairman is bringing another pan, soon but I want this to stop$$$$$$. Thanks.
On 2015-10-22 21:25:30.091843 by (mod)
I can't say from just your e-text but more likely there is a mounting or piping connection error that is being repeated. I'd want to know the drain pan material, location, mounting and securing hardware, plumbing connections, and any cause of transmission of vibration from the air handler to the drain pan; Those are things to check.
On 2015-10-22 15:13:24.668553 by David
I have a a 2 years old trane heat pump. The 5 ton handler drain pan keeps on cracking. It has cracked 4 times already. Is there a defect on the handler drain pan?
On 2015-09-29 22:48:01.160942 by Lisa
I had a new ac unit put in in April recently my condensation drain (drains out the side of the house) has a steady stream of water. What could cause this?
On 2015-09-23 21:04:29.802690 by (mod)
a blocked condensate drain
a change in air speed that has increased the rate of production of humidity
when you looked before it was in times of low indoor humidity
On 2015-09-23 21:01:41.925528 by Dennis
The condensate drip tray never filled up for a year and now has filled up twice in one month and it's not humid.
On 2015-09-15 02:21:39.376619 by antonio
yes thats correct that switch
I just cut the 2 cables coming from the swtch and the air coming on but the unit outside is not coming on at all also the pan its not overflowing its just that the switch it self looks like its got burn so my question is does it have some to do with the unit out side to not coming on at all ?
On 2015-09-15 01:47:21.556852 by (mod)
I am GUESSING that you refer to a condensate overflow switch located in an overflow pan: the switch senses water and shuts off the AC so as not to flood the building - a condition that would be both unsafe and that could cause expensive damage.
If in fact the condensate is overflowing I'd be reluctant to disconnect or hotwire the switch. Unsafe.
On 2015-09-15 01:15:47.125345 by antonio
Can someone tell me if can i bypass a condensate cop and how to do it i will replace it but i need ac for rite now
On 2015-09-10 15:56:01.735438 by Fred
It has had a hose hooked up to it draining into the sump pump during its entire time here-occasionally it has stopped draining by the hose and insists on having the bucket emptied but at some point goes back to draining by the hose as usual without my doing anything to cause that-I have repeatedly checked to make sure the draining end is noticeably lower than the end hooked up to the unit-most of the time its been here it has drained through the hose properly-now I have a go at cleaning the hose and hope that's it.
On 2015-09-10 14:20:47.160376 by (mod)
The Soleus Air Model # SG-DEH-45-1 is a portable dehumidifier. It collects condensate in a removable plastic bucket or bin to which a drain hose can be connected. If you have connected a water hose to your system in a set-up intended to drain by gravtiy and the hose is not draining either the hose is routed "up" above the bucket or bucket drain or the hose is clogged. You won't find a "hose diagram" since the hose, its length, routing, and end termination point are not specified by the manufacturer; rather they are site dependent - the owner or installer makes those choices.
If your drain hose is clogged, try removing it and using an outside hose bib to flush it out.
If you cannot find a convenient gravity-drain system for a dehumidifier condensate drain an alternative is to purchase a small air conditioner system condensate pump; the dehumidifier drains into the pump and the pump, activated by its own float switch, can periodically pump the condensate up to a building drain.
The installation and operation manual for your dehumidifier is available online from the manufacturer at
There you'll see that the external drain hose connects to a port on the upper left side of the condensate collection bucket. Quoting:
Water can be automatically emptied by attaching a hose to the continuous drainage port on the side of the dehumidifier. This will
allow the unit to run continuously (depending on the selected humidity level) without having to empty the water bucket. To drain,
simply attach a standard garden hose (not included).
• Remove the bucket from the front of the unit.
• Open the drain cover on the side of the dehumidifier.
• Thread a garden hose (not supplied) onto the nozzle, cut to length and lead to the floor drain.
• Replace the bucket in the dehumidifier.
NOTE: The bucket must be in place and securely seated for the dehumidifier to operate.
On 2015-09-09 15:27:38.235497 by Fred
That would be behind the bucket when removed or after one removes the hose? More detail is needed.
On 2015-09-04 19:55:18.298736 by (mod)
Check for a partly clogged condensate drain that gets overwhelmed when indoor humidity is high
On 2015-09-04 14:44:44.320182 by Fred
SOLEUSAIR Model No: SG-DEH-45-1 3 1/2 yrs old-does this from time to time then goes back to normal without my having done anything
On 2015-09-03 by (mod)
give me the brand and model of your dehumdiifier and we'll work on it
On 2015-09-03 by Fred
Looking for a diagram of a dehumidifier-all I can find are links to a.c. units-water is not going out the hose like usual- need a diagram so I know what to take apart and clean so the water will go out the hose again-tired of continually having to go downstairs and empty the bucket
On 2015-08-28 by Martin Bernstein
I have a new installed water pan installed under my ATTIC A/C. The pan was put in due to water was leaking into the bedroom below.
I only use the A/C in the evening before going to sleep[ for upstairs bedroom Usually runs about 1-2 hours and then I shut it off.
A few days after the pan was installed zI noticed the ceiling was getting wet again. The maintenance service came and used Nitrogen to clean the pipes and the water flowed thru the outside roof gutter. Shortly after the repair people left I when up into the attic to see what had been done and saw that there was still a lot of water in the pan.
I called the service and they told be not to worry that the water stays in the pan until it reaches a certain level and then it will start to remove the excess water. I just noticed tonight that the surroundiing instalation on one side of the A/C unit was wet and the other side was dry.
My question is if the pan was operating correctly should the WATER REMAIN IN the PAN?
this seems unhealthy and would probably cause mold and other problems. Was the INSTALLATION faULTY. I would be most appreciative of any help
or solutions you may have.
On 2015-07-20 by Art How do you get at it to replace it?
We live in a mobile home and the drip pan under the cooling unit (in our hallway) broke and leaks water all over our carpet and soaked the partical board floor.
We bought a new drip pan on line, but the pipes in front of the cooling unit make it impossible to insert the pan. How do you get at it to replace it? Do we have to go through the wall in the next room. HELP!!!!
On 2015-05-10 by (mod) My air will drip its water all over the floor once it has been running for hours
I would take a different approach:
I suspect that either the window AC unit is improperly-mounted (not sloped towards the outside) or that its drain opening is blocked causing condensate levels to reach too high a level in the unit - both of these are conditions that should be corrected.
On 2015-05-10 by Rick
I am looking for a drip tray for a window air conditioner. Something that would attach underneath the unit. I have heard of them but never seen one.
My air will drip its water all over the floor once it has been running for hours in the humid weather. Makes for a bad mess. Does anyone know of any stores that sell these units?
I noticed leakage in my ceiling after a technician rewired my brand new conditioner to run at a higher fan speed which forced more air into my house
. Made sense and now feels cooler. a few hours later is when I noticed the water leak. I went into the attic and can see that there is water in the catch tray but the kicker is that there is a small hole a couple of millimeters round at the end of the tray allowing the water to leak out into the insulation down the roof into my plaster ceiling. What in the world is a hole doing in my catch tray? - Frank 7/22/11
My a/c unit on my roof is leaking into the attic and causing water spots inside the house (ceiling, walls). After having a friend check it out, we think the plastic drip tray, which the condenser is resting in, has a crack or hole causing the leak. The question: How do we get to the drip tray to repair or replace without removing the condenser? - J. 8/1/11
I rent my home and have for 5 years. I noticed a water spot in my bathroom ceiling and went upstairs to check the air conditioner being that it is right above the bathroom.
The tray was FILLED. I laid towels down to soak up the water. Today is Saturday. Can I wait to call my landlord on Monday as long as I continue to soak up the water? Also, what could the problem be. It DOES have that switch mentioned above but it must not be working... - Kelli 6/23/12
at higher fan speed sometimes the blower pushes water droplets into the ductwork instead of allowing all of the condensate in the air handler to run into the drip tray.
But when you find an obvious leak like a hole in the drip tray, that's a good diagnosis for leaks into the ceiling. If your drip tray is metal it may just have corroded; plastic - it was damaged.
Usually there is a primary condensate collection drip pan connected to a drain location, and a separate condensate overflow pan and drain to handle the sort of problem you describe.
replacing the drip tray under a rooftop A/C unit is easy or difficult depending on how it was installed. If the installer left sufficient slack (a flexible loop) in the refrigerant piping and electrical wiring, the system can be raised very carefully, disturbing the piping as little as possible to avoid causing a leak in the refrigerant lines. Then the new tray is placed beneath.
But if there is insufficient slack in refrigerant tubing and wiring, moving the system to install a new drip tray is a big deal because you'd have to evacuate the system, cut refrigerant lines, then install the tray, then repair the lines and clear and recharge the whole system.
That procedure is so much trouble and cost that most folks will try to find and repair leaks in the existing drip tray first.
I suspect that the condensate drain is clogged - usually a little brush can clear a trap in that line - but yes, if you keep water from overflowing into the attic by any means you can keep running the system. But it sounds troublesome. I'd focus on getting someone to clear the drain.
Thanks Dan. We will see if the condenser has any slack to lift it off of the tray. Any other ideas?? I also saw someone mention something about some of the moisture from the condenser being sucked into the air intake then resting in the ventilation somewhere, pooling, then leaking. Since the air intake is a big hole just under the condenser, I consider this a possibility. Any ideas on this one? - J
Sometimes in the air handler the blower pushes moisture off of the cooling coil and off into the ductwork - common in very humid spots like Florida.
Can someone tell me what an emergency float switch typically cost? I have one attached to my drip pan on an Amana. - Molly 8/11/11
if you need an air conditioner condensate pan or drip tray float switch installed, the cost will principally be the fee for an HVAC service call to install the switch in the pan (trivial) and wire it to the A/C controls (less than an hour). Figure $100. to $150.
The switch itself, such as the Safe-T-Switch Model SS3 sold as a drip pan overflow shut-off switch, retails from $30.00 to $50.00 U.S.
An earlier comment mentioned air pushed into the duct by the blower. I have had condensate leaking from the bottom duct of my downflow system for several years on to the garage floor. Has not been a big issue because I live in Oregon and only use AC a few days a summer and humidity is very low.
I have determined that the condensate is blowing or splashing out of the tray in the center of the evaporate. The drain is OK. What can be done about this? I will be selling the house next year and I,m sure it will be an issue. - Dan 8/20/11
While some of my associates (M. Cramer, Tampa) point out that a small amount of condensate blow-off at the cooling coil and even small amounts of mold in that area (usually Cladosporium sp. in my tests) are not necessarily a functional issue, I'm still looking for a "fix" for condensate blowing out of the drip tray;
I agree that it's common, especially in very humid areas. My associate Mark Cramer, a Florida home inspector and educator, says they just live with it and they don't believe mold is much of an issue in ductwork; I think .... also paraphrasing Mark... it depends.
Small amounts of immobile Cladosporium sphaerospermum sticking to insulation may have no detectable effect in the living area;
Aspergillus or Penicillium in the same area would be more of a worry. This is a good question to take to the manufacturers to ask what design changes in air handler airflow control may be in the works. - DF
can the drip pan be replaced with out replacing the condenser itself - Peter 5/6/12
Yes, well sort-of. It can be difficult on many air handlers to get a new drip pan in place inside of an air handler without doing some disassembly.
But drip pans and their replacement take place inside the indoor unit, the air handler or blower unit - and have nothing to do with the outdoor condenser unit.
Our condensation drip pan is not level, so the condensate water is flowing away from the drain hose and overflowing into our furnace instead of down the drain. I was told the pitch of the pan needs to be adjusted- what is the best and safest way to adjust the pitch? Our AC unit is on top of our furnace. - Tony 6/22/12
Tony, to properly adjust the slope of the condensate drip pan you need to know how it is secured and what movement is possible;
I don't have enough information to figure it out from just your comment; you could try sending some sharp photos to the CONTACT US link. If the pan is "pinned" under the A/C unit itself, you may not be able to level the pan without moving the whole assembly.
If the pan moves freely it may just be shimmed. But if this is a new problem, that is if it used to drain, I'd look for what changed and ask why - that'd be diagnostic.
My indoor ac unit is dripping water from somewhere in the upper part of the system. I checked what I believe is the condensate drain and it doesn't appear blocked. Interestingly, this drain goes into the floor (concrete basement floor) into a hole. I can't see into the hole since it's under a corner of the unit.
I cut the PVC drain pipe so I could get my wet vac to it. I didn't get an appreciable amount of junk from the pipe and will replace it shortly. Also, the lines from the outside unit are freezing a bit and I see condensation along the lines that lead to the inside unit. Any information would be appreciated. - Duane 7/8/12
Recently, I have noticed water dripping down the outside of my furnace. The A coil is above the furnace, drain is located on the side of the drip pan, and the coil and integrated pan are "lift able" (not attached to the furnace) so it can be shimmed which I tried. I cleared the drain, but it was not clogged.
The drip pan is showing a large amount of rust and I suspect pinholes in it, so the water is dripping through it rather than going to the drain. I have researched and found a product called Pancrete which appears to be made for just this problem. Has anyone here used this product and would they recommend it? System is Ruud upflow furnace approximately 18 years old. - Jeff F. 7/21/12
A first step in diagnosing condensate dripping out of the air handler is to determine if the entry into the condensate drain or any later portion of the drain is clogged - if water can't get from the pan into and down the drain the pan is going to overflow.
Also on occasion I find misaligned A/C components, a pan that is not in the right place, a pan that has corroded and is leaky, or missing insulation on a refrigerant line that is causing condensate to drip somewhere other than into the drip tray.
I haven't looked at PanCrete but will see if I can find and review the product literature; it's worth a try if it can seal a corroded condensate pan instead of having to tear the system apart to get a new one in place.
Condensate drip tray replacement under an A coil in a cooling system such as the one you describe can be tight.
my outside unit is working but my blower in the attic is not, After checking my one 10amp fuse I noticed that not only was my drip pans filled but so wa the bottom insulation of my system, I have to separate drain pipe...do I still have a float switch and what should I do next? - Anon 7/16/12
Float switches are used in condensate OVERFLOW pans as a safety measure to shut down the system when condensate is not draining properly - to avoid a flood out of the pan and into the house ceilings.
But if your overflow pan has its own drain it usually won't have an overflow switch. In other words usually there is either an overflow pan with a drain, or an overflow pan with a water-sensing switch that shuts down the system if ANY water appears in the overflow pan.
Because you say your overflow pan has a separate drain pipe, I suspect it won't have a switch.
If you had an overflow switch you would see it and its wires somewhere in the bottom of the overflow pan.
So you need to look for a different problem: lost power, a blower compartment door open (those have a safety switch that shuts off power if someone opens the door - to avoid getting chopped by the blower fan), or a bad control, relay, etc.
I have noticed quite alot of water draining from my drain hose which comes from the unit located in the attic.
The drain hose comes from the attic unit, then outside and down the side of my home. I placed a bucket under the drain pipe due to the amount of water pooling around the foundation of the home. I can usually fill up this 5 gallon bucket within a day or two with the water draining. Is this normal? - Patrick S 7/30/12
Normal A/C or heat pump condensate flow ranges from nothing to considerable, even quarts per hour in some residential installations and of course still more in larger commercial systems.
A system that is operating in a dry environment or that has been on for some time may be encountering little moisture to remove from the conditioned air, while an air conditioner running in very humid conditions may pull an enormous amount of water from the air.
In humid conditions an A/C system can produce a lot of condensate - it's not abnormal unless there is also an abnormal source of moisture in the building.
Also when a cooling system is first activated after some period of disuse, as it removes moisture from the building air, more moisture from absorbent building materials (drywall, for example) continues to enter the building air until the moisture level in both air and building contents has been reduced to a stable level.
And of course there is no simple "correct" condensate quantity because in addition to these environmental variables, the cubic feet and type of area being air conditioned varies from building to building as does the dehumidification capacity of the equipment.
As long as
you're probably ok.
Watch out: about too little condensate production from an air conditioner or heat pump: we explain in detail at DEHUMIDIFICATION PROBLEMS that if an air conditioner is over-sized it will cool the space off too rapidly and it won't dehumidify adequately.
(June 23, 2014) jv said:
my outside unit turns on. I checked the drain pipe and put bleach and tried to flush with water still the blower inside the unit doesn't turn on. I changed the air filter, checked the power, changed the batteries in the thermostat as part of figuring out the problem.
If I turn the air conditioner on then it starts to show condensation on the panel of the furnace and it feels really cold but still no blower.
I don't see the drip pan and I don't know what the overflow sensor would look like for me to check these before I call for service.
I have an American Standard Freedom 80 unit in my hall closet. It is 6 years old. If I call an air company what would they typically charge for running diagnostics, and replacing a blower or blower motor or drip pan/sensor? Just trying not to get scammed. Thank you
JV it sounds as if your blower fan motor is not running. A condensate pan overflow switch could indeed leave the blower OFF, as would a blower compartment door switch if the door was not fully shut - you'd want to check these simple conditions before paying for a service call.
If those steps don't help and given what you've already checked, I suspect there could be a broken fan belt if your blower uses a fan, or a blower motor that's not working, or a bad fan relay or control.
Typically the service company charges a minimum fee for a service call + parts. Under $200. The tech will check for power at the fan, check the fan motor and controls, etc.
(July 2, 2014) Brenna said:
My brand new attic ac unit is dripping quite frequently in a few places directly undeath the unit itself.
I've also noticed that the area around my drip pan is saturated but the water level inside the pan isn't very high at all. First of all, should there be dripping of this nature directly from the unit and not from a drainage tube, duct work, etc and what is causing the saturation around the perimeter of my drip pan with such low water levels inside it?
Could my pan (approx 5 weeks old) have a crack?
Brenna, check for a clogged or misrouted condensate drain, a unit that is not properly sloped to send condensate into the drain, or missing insulation causing condensate to form sand drip in a spot where it misses the drip tray
(July 14, 2014) Rebecca said:
Our AC will not turn on. The fan will not turn on either.
I am trying to figure out how the overflow safety switch feature works and how to fix the tubing in case it is clogged. I was able to pour the water out of the condensate tray but it is still not coming on. Is the safety switch inside the pump? I cannot find the switch.
The pump did start when I was tilting it to pour it out. But the AC is still not kicking on. MODEL kt3x-2ul automatic condensate removal pump
Rebecca, not all condensate pans use an overflow switch - some provide dual condensate drains at different levels, or a second pan below the first one.
If there were a condensate pan overflow switch you'd see the switch and wires leading to it right in the condensate tray.
Aug 10, 2014) Tamieka said:
I have a Goodman Heat Pump & Air Conditioner Model a36-10 serial number 9506121001. The air blowing from the vent was very faint. I had to put my hand all the way up to the vent in order to feel the air. I replaced the blower fan...that didn't help. The drain line was clogged...got that cleared.
The main culprit appears to be that the safety switch wasn't working and when it was repaired the air blew out really hard. I was told that the safety switch caused the outside unit not to run, only the attic unit had been running. I am no in search of the safety switch to replace the part bc it continues to go out.
Is there a universal switch...a switch specifically made for the drain pan...or a switch specifically made for the unit brand and model?
I had someone to take a pic of it so I'd at least recognize it if I see it but I haven't had any luck yet. Please help! Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the interesting question, though if this helps I have to say I can't make sense out of what you were told.
If an outside compressor is not running the result is that refrigerant is not sent to the indoor cooling coil in the air handler - so air won't be cooled.
But the outside compressor has no direct effect on the fan speed of the indoor compressor condenser unit.
I'd think that if there were a safety circuit that shut off the air conditioning system on sensing that the compressor was not working at all, there would be NO air flow, rather than weak air flow.
I'd like to know what safety switch we're discussing. For example a door safety switch turns off the indoor air handler if one if its opening covers is ajar.
(Sept 5, 2014) Van said:
Hi, we have the overflow switch installed but the drain pan cracked twice within the last 4 years.
The installer said due to the cracked drain pan, it did not hit the overflow switch. As a result, water leaked into bedroom and bathroom. Should there be secondary pan when the drain pan & overflow switch fail? Who should handle the cost to replace drywall, carpet, etc?
The pan you describe already was supposed to be a backup to the primary drain system. I would not add a third one. Rather, fis the reason for pan cracking and fis the primary condensate drain that should not be leaking into the overflow pan in the first place.
(Sept 23, 2014) Anonymous said:
If I have an AC line inside a pitch pan and it is broke, how does the roofer/AC guy make repairs to this line since the pitch pan is full of some type of sealant?
(Sept 24, 2014) Rob said:
My Ac and heat both aren't working all of the sudden the fan blows but it seems to be just circulating air not heating or cooling it.
Rob in the article links below on this page at Continue reading where you will find an INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES , the diagnostic suggestions at
LOST COOLING CAPACITY
should help you
(Oct 3, 2014) Joe G said:
My Ac does not have a secondary/ overflow pan. I was considering having one installed but not sure how much is reasonable. Any idea what's the going price?
The install price for a drip pan depends on the trouble of getting it in place - the pan itself is a trivial expense - along with the trouble of routing its discharge piping to a suitable drain location. So I don't know what your case involves.
A much less costly alternative that is fine for many buildings is to install a condensate overflow switch that will shut off the system if the primary pan is not working properly - say clogs and doesn't drain.
(Mar 20, 2015) Anonymous said:
Are coil drip pans and backup exterior base pans always metal or can they be plastic? In either case can either crack or develop holes and leak?
Yes to all of the questions
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