Condensate drip tray questions & answers:

Frequently-asked questions about troubleshooting, fixing, or replacing overflow pans and condensate drip collection pans and trays.

This air conditioning repair article series discusses the inspection and repair of air conditioning condensate systems, including Air Conditioning Condensate Drip Trays, Defects, and Leaks.

Air Conditioning or Heat Pump Condensate Drip Tray or Condensate Overflow Pan Installation, Inspection, & Diagnosis

These questions & answers about diagnosing & fixing problems at the condensate drip tray or overflow pan were posted originally

at CONDENSATE DRIP TRAY DEFECTS

Evaporator coil sits right on the condensate drain pan - is that OK?

Hi, my coils are sitting directly on the drain pan. Not sure if that is normal or not but the real issue is that the outlet from the drain pan appears to about an inch from the bottom.

Because of this it seems to be in a lot of standing water and there is a lot of rust. Is this a normal configuration? What would you recommend? On 2021-04-27 by Melani

Advice by (mod) -

@Melani,

I would need to see a photograph of your cooling coil installation.

If the drip pan and coils are in a configuration that came from the coil manufacturer I don't think we would have anything to say about the design.

But if it's an add-on it may be that it's not the best installation. Unfortunately the cost to move everything is probably prohibitive.

Drip pain under A-Coil is leaking and HVAC guy says it's to old, they don't make the unit or pan anymore

I have an old Janitor Amana central unit.

The tag is so old model number is worn out.

Drip pain under A-Coil is leaking and HVAC guy says it's to old, they don't make the unit or pan anymore, and he cannot get the pan.

Says will cost a lot to do the replacement anyway and I should probably just buy a whole new unit for $6500.

A-coil is marked as "replaced in July 1999". I've found a pan on amazon with the same demensions, drain holes look same, pic looks same (I ordered just to see).



I hate to spend $6500 due to a leaking plastic pan! Does this sound reasonable?

For my comment, here is the one I found. On 2020-10-14 by Richard -

by (mod) -

I agree that comparing a repair part that costs just a few dollars makes a $6,500 replacement look rather pricey.

**IF** you can jury-rig and patch and seal the existing pan while leaving it in place (some A/C systems also might permit adding a pan below the existing one) that's a reasonable "band-aid" approach to keeping your old system running and deferring replacing worn, old obsolete equipment.

I would not go to any expensive repair effort on an old system. The repair person is right that the second you start fooling with an old piece of equipment you're risking finding lots of other parts and compnents that disintegrate when touched, expanding what looked like a limited repair job into a nightmare.

by Richard

Thanks for your reply. I ordered the pan, and looked the unit over. If not for the lines and removing the vent from heater beneath I think I could simply lift it up and replace (also 2 screws behind that will likely be hard to get to. My plan is, if this pan is a match, just find a pro to put it in. Original pro said the pan was unavailable.

by (mod) -

Good going, Richard.

If you in the mood to take some photos of details of what you find and of the conceit drip Pan replacement process that would be very valuable for other readers.

 

Condensate dripping off the coil doesn't fall into the drip tray: wet moldy floors and walls

The evaporator coils are dripping water in front of the drip pan.

(They actually stick out farther than the pan.) The drip pan is dry and not clogged. Could this be that my drip pan is too small or misaligned? It is a significant amount of water.

My floor and walls are wet and moldy. The entire heating/cooling unit is 2 years old and the installer is less than helpful. Any ideas?

In the picture, the large horizontal copper line is what sticks out over the drip pan and is dripping water. On 2020-08-26 by Jessica

Explanation by (mod)

Yes, Jessica, the drip tray or pan [your phto is shown just above] needs to be sized and located to catch condensate dripping off of the coil.

Call your installing contractor: they should correct the job.

Watch out: remove wet moldy dryall, clean up the surfaces, remove the mold: you otherwise risk a mold-related illness.

Where do I look to find why water is accumlating in my drain pan?

What would be the next place to look to find why my A/C condensate isn't draining?

I’ve replaced an older condensation pump and it works, I did get a plug out of the drain line that goes to the pump (nasty stuff), but I’m still getting water in pan that pump sits in.

Is it likely that an internal pan has sprung a leak?

It fills and triggers the shutoff. Maybe it is just backed up water making its way down?

24 hour wait and see. On 2020-05-28 by Kevin

Suggestions by (mod)

Follow the water from the point it's produced inside the air handler.

Typically condensate in the AHU drips into a primary condensate collection pan or tray inside the unit, and is routed to a drain; the overflow pan is there to catch water leaking from the primary pan.

Keep in mind that if the condensate drain pan isn't sloped towards its drain it may accumulate some water, but if water is above the inlet to the pan drain opening then there's a clog in the drain line to find and fix.

 

My A/C drip pan fills up and overflows - how do I fix it?

My drain pan fills up and overflows. Water is not running into the drain pipe.

I take the door off of the unit exposing the drain pan/coils and the water flows out of the drain pipe as it should. I put the door back on and it stops flowing again. Any ideas? - Mike 2020/06/05/16

Answer by (mod) -

Mike;

You will want to un-clog your condensate drain to get it working again.

Else you risk a condensate overflow leak that causes expensive damage (or mold contamination) or, depending on what safety devices are installed, your system may simply shut down.

See details at CONDENSATE DRAIN CLEAN & DE-CLOG

 

Condensate drain pan doesn't drain

I just had a heat pump installed, however, there is no slope so the water remains in the drain pan and has been for several months.

I have been informed that is normal but I do not think so. The overflow went down the old system drainage otherwise it would have went into my wall. I had to phone another company who came up with a solution. Any comments? On 2017-09-26 by Jack

Suggestions by (mod) -

Jack,

Sometimes an installer says "it's normal" and it is "normal" for his installations because he (or she) installs the system incorrectly every time.

Not to be too glib about this problem, maybe it's also normal for your installer's customers to contract Legionnaire's disease or to suffer condensate drain pan overflow leaks and expensive mold-contamination in the ceiling or other area below.

I mean to say, the drain pan should drain. Keeping standing water in an air conditioning or heat pump system drain pan risks the problems I cited.

Can we eliminate the condensate overflow drain pan?

We have a 13 yr old Trane AC and Heating Unit with a rusted external AC drip tray in our attic.

We are thinking of removing the lower drip tray (4 hangers) to apply Flex Shield to the tray bottom, let cure and then reinstall.

Do you have any advice or see any problems with this?? Trying to save some money!! On 2017-08-11 by Larry

Opinion by (mod) -

I think that's probably a reasonable approach, but before trying Flex-Seal (TM) I'd look at the cost to simply install a new condensate overflow pan of plastic or fiberglass.
A gallon of FlexSeal (TM) is about $15.

But that might not be enough- ConsumerReports' review notes that multiple coatings may be needed to get a durable, reliable waterproof skin.

And then there's the thought once you've gone to the trouble to remove and replace the pan, maybe a new reliable pan would not cost much more.

So I looked at condensate drip tray costs:

A high quality reinforced drip pan might cost two or three times as much - from $28. to typically about $45.U.S. to more for larger or industrial drip pans for air conditioner air handler units.

So yeah, if you can clean the pan, if you can coat it so well that you are really confident you're not going to risk a leak that could cause an expensive mold problem, and if the corrosion damage is not in an area that's structurally needed, e.g. to connect a condensate overflow drain, then your project could be reasonable.

Condensate drain pan leaks into overflow pan and shutoff switch turns off our A/C; Is this a bad design?

Leaking pan.. my mom has an AC unit that the inter pan is leaking into the emergency catch pan which has a shut off switch Guy told me that there was a seal on the inter pan thats leaking.. is this a bad Design or is the guy pulling my leg ..we just had the drain unclogged . The unit shuts off every two weeks when the emergency pan is full On 2019-07-18 by Leaking pan

Answer by (mod) -

It'd make sense to take a look at what was described to you - if the service tech can see it so can you.

If the leak can be fixed without having to remove the equipment you're ahead of the game.

Does the air conditioner have to be raised to replace the drip pan

Does the air conditioner have to be raised to replace the drip pan On 2018-05-06 by Paul doniak

On 2018-05-07 by (mod) - ususally but not always.

It depends on the specifics of the installation. Some systems will have to be lifted.

If the equipment sits on the pan the equipment will have to be lifted.

In some attic or other installations the air handler is suspended, such as hung from rafters, over a drip pan; in that case you may be able to remove and replace the condensate drip tray without lifting the A/C unit further.

What are my repair options for a leaky heat pump drip pan?

I have a Goodman heatpump the drip pan starter leaking, 2 days ago what can I do? On 2017-07-01 by Johnny Freeman

Suggestions by (mod)

Johnny

Look to see the leak source: if the pan is overflowing the drain line needs to be cleared;

if the pan is actually perforated or leaking at a drain line connection then that point of leakage needs to be fixed. A badly damaged or leaky condensate drip pan should be replaced.

bA leaky pipe joint or small pan perforation can be sealed in - place by drying and cleaning the surface before using a sealant such as silicone.

Why does our condensate overflow when the blower is on?

Secondary pan is taking on water because the air handler is overflowing when the blower is running. Once it. Cuts off it drains fine. There is a p-trap b4 the condensate pump. Filter is clean On 2017-07-01 by Johnny Freeman

Explanation by (mod) - Secondary pan is taking on water

If the system used to work and drain condensate properly then it makes sense to ask what's changed?

If not a partly-clogged drain that can't handle high flow rate then some condition that's causing high condensation in the air handler or condensate blowing past the drain pan.

.

How do I get my A/C back on after the condensate overflow switch turned it off?

My drain pan filled up and the unit turned off. I have turned the unit off for 12 hours. How do I get it to function again? On 2016-07-24 by Laura

Advice by (mod)

Laura:

You need to find and clear the clog in the drain pan drain line.

Most likely your system has a sensor switch that shuts down the A/C when it detects flooding in the drain pan - that's to avoid spill over and building damage.

Is it normal to always see an inch of water in the A/C drip pan?

Is it normal to always have an inch or so of water standing in the drip pan? On 2016-07-15 by Sam

Answer by (mod): Not good

It may be common, but not good to have standing water in the condensate drip pan.

A pan that is not level nor sloped to a drain, or a pan whose drain is clogged could be the cause of this situation.

The risks include formation of harmful bacterial or other pathoghenic growth in the drain pan (Legionnaire's disease) and/or leaks into the building and related water or mold damage.

Could a condensate leak ovehead cause a water leak into my apartment?

I live in a apartment complex and I had water leaking in my bedroom. It was painted over and sheet rock replaced the falling ceiling.

I noticed what appears to be mold. My apartment is always dam and my living room ceiling has fallen in as well.

The maintenance man said a condensation pump needs to be repaired in the upstairs unit. Could this be possible? And why does my apartment smell like a month old wet basement. On 2016-07-10 by Niko

Answer by (mod): yes

Sure it could be possible Niko. A/C systems produce condensate (water condensed out of humid air). If that is not drained properly and if it leaks into ceilings or walls, it is inviting a mold problem.

Watch out for water damage and mold growth.

Contractor replaced the drip pan 3 times - and needs to do it again. What's wrong?

I have had drip pan replaced three times on a unit that is less then ten years old, air filters are always washed, and cleaned.

There is hardly any wind resistant's with filters, what could be causing this issue, the furnace is an Amana 90% energy efficient and about eleven years old.

Any ideas, or suggestions. The repairman is bringing another pan, soon but I want this to stop$$$$$$. Thanks. On 2016-06-03 by Bill

by (mod)

Bill

OPINION: Any time someone says the've done the same repair repeatedly I consider that a red flag that something's wrong or missing.

I don't know if the replacement was incorrectly done or if the problem lies elsewhere such as a blocked condensate drain or condensate blowing off of the blower into ducts and not into the drain pan.

What causes a drain pan to keep cracking and leaking?

I have a a 2 years old trane heat pump. The 5 ton handler drain pan keeps on cracking. It has cracked 4 times already. Is there a defect on the handler drain pan? On 2015-10-22 by David

by (mod)

David

I can't say from just your e-text but more likely there is a mounting or piping connection error that is being repeated.

I'd want to know the drain pan material, location, mounting and securing hardware, plumbing connections, and any cause of transmission of vibration from the air handler to the drain pan; Those are things to check.

For example, an AHU sitting directly on a plastic drain pan could cause it to break.

Why does our condensate drip tray fill up when it never did before?

The condensate drip tray never filled up for a year and now has filled up twice in one month and it's not humid.
Any ideas? On 2015-09-23 by Dennis

by (mod): look for a condensate drain clog

Sounds like:

a blocked condensate drain

or

a change in air speed that has increased the rate of production of humidity

or

when you looked before it was in times of low indoor humidity

How do I bypass a condensate panoverflow switch that is shutting off my air conditioner?

Can someone tell me if can i bypass a condensate cutout overflow pan switch - and how to do I do it; I will replace it but i need A/C right now, On 2015-09-15 by antonio

by (mod): don't do it.

Antonio

I am GUESSING that you refer to a condensate overflow switch located in an overflow pan: the switch senses water and shuts off the AC so as not to flood the building - a condition that would be both unsafe and that could cause expensive damage.

If in fact the condensate is overflowing I'd be reluctant to disconnect or hotwire the switch.

Watch out: that would be unsafe. You risk an electric shock or fire.

And you risk spilling A/C condensate in your building, causing water or mold damage.

So at the very least, you'd want to be sure that the clog or whatever other problem caused the condensate drain pan to stop draining, fill with water, and thus cause the switch to turn off your air conditioner.

by antonio

yes thats correct that switch

I just cut the 2 cables coming from the swtch and the air coming on but the unit outside is not coming on at all also the pan its not overflowing its just that the switch it self looks like its got burn so my question is does it have some to do with the unit out side to not coming on at all ?

I need a diagram for Sole USAIR dehumidifier installation and condensate handling to fix a clogged drain hose

Looking for a diagram of a dehumidifier-all I can find are links to a.c. units-water is not going out the hose like usual- need a diagram so I know what to take apart and clean so the water will go out the hose again-tired of continually having to go downstairs and empty the bucket On 2015-09-03 by Fred

Reply by (mod)

Fred:

give me the brand and model of your dehumdiifier and we'll work on it

by Fred

SOLEUSAIR Model No: SG-DEH-45-1 3 1/2 yrs old-does this from time to time then goes back to normal without my having done anything

by (mod)

Check for a partly clogged condensate drain that gets overwhelmed when indoor humidity is high

by Fred

That would be behind the bucket when removed or after one removes the hose? More detail is needed.

Detailed advice by (mod)

Fred,

The Soleus Air Model # SG-DEH-45-1 is a portable dehumidifier. It collects condensate in a removable plastic bucket or bin to which a drain hose can be connected. If you have connected a water hose to your system in a set-up intended to drain by gravtiy and the hose is not draining either the hose is routed "up" above the bucket or bucket drain or the hose is clogged.

You won't find a "hose diagram" since the hose, its length, routing, and end termination point are not specified by the manufacturer; rather they are site dependent - the owner or installer makes those choices.

If your drain hose is clogged, try removing it and using an outside hose bib to flush it out.

If you cannot find a convenient gravity-drain system for a dehumidifier condensate drain an alternative is to purchase a small air conditioner system condensate pump; the dehumidifier drains into the pump and the pump, activated by its own float switch, can periodically pump the condensate up to a building drain.

The installation and operation manual for your dehumidifier is available online from the manufacturer at

Soleusair, Website: http://www.soleusair.com but you'll find this website currently (August 2019) difficult to navigate and without links to manuals that used to be easy to find ...too bad. I could not find the company's address nor contact information at their site.

There you'll see that the external drain hose connects to a port on the upper left side of the condensate collection bucket. Quoting:

Water can be automatically emptied by attaching a hose to the continuous drainage port on the side of the dehumidifier. This will allow the unit to run continuously (depending on the selected humidity level) without having to empty the water bucket.

To drain, simply attach a standard garden hose (not included).

• Remove the bucket from the front of the unit.

• Open the drain cover on the side of the dehumidifier.

• Thread a garden hose (not supplied) onto the nozzle, cut to length and lead to the floor drain.

• Replace the bucket in the dehumidifier.

NOTE: The bucket must be in place and securely seated for the dehumidifier to operate.

by Fred

It has had a hose hooked up to it draining into the sump pump during its entire time here-occasionally it has stopped draining by the hose and insists on having the bucket emptied but at some point goes back to draining by the hose as usual without my doing anything to cause that

-I have repeatedly checked to make sure the draining end is noticeably lower than the end hooked up to the unit-most of the time its been here it has drained through the hose properly-now I have a go at cleaning the hose and hope that's it.

My air conditioner will drip its water all over the floor once it has been running for hours

I am looking for a drip tray for a window air conditioner. Something that would attach underneath the unit. I have heard of them but never seen one.

My air will drip its water all over the floor once it has been running for hours in the humid weather. Makes for a bad mess. Does anyone know of any stores that sell these units?

Suggestion by (mod)

Rick:

I would take a different approach:

I suspect that either the window AC unit is improperly-mounted (not sloped towards the outside) or that its drain opening is blocked causing condensate levels to reach too high a level in the unit - both of these are conditions that should be corrected.

Question: A/C condensate leaks into ceiling or into the attic

I noticed leakage in my ceiling after a technician rewired my brand new conditioner to run at a higher fan speed which forced more air into my house

. Made sense and now feels cooler. a few hours later is when I noticed the water leak. I went into the attic and can see that there is water in the catch tray but the kicker is that there is a small hole a couple of millimeters round at the end of the tray allowing the water to leak out into the insulation down the roof into my plaster ceiling. What in the world is a hole doing in my catch tray? - Frank 7/22/11

My a/c unit on my roof is leaking into the attic and causing water spots inside the house (ceiling, walls). After having a friend check it out, we think the plastic drip tray, which the condenser is resting in, has a crack or hole causing the leak. The question: How do we get to the drip tray to repair or replace without removing the condenser? - J. 8/1/11

I rent my home and have for 5 years. I noticed a water spot in my bathroom ceiling and went upstairs to check the air conditioner being that it is right above the bathroom.

The tray was FILLED. I laid towels down to soak up the water. Today is Saturday. Can I wait to call my landlord on Monday as long as I continue to soak up the water? Also, what could the problem be. It DOES have that switch mentioned above but it must not be working... - Kelli 6/23/12

Reply:

Frank,

at higher fan speed sometimes the blower pushes water droplets into the ductwork instead of allowing all of the condensate in the air handler to run into the drip tray.

But when you find an obvious leak like a hole in the drip tray, that's a good diagnosis for leaks into the ceiling. If your drip tray is metal it may just have corroded; plastic - it was damaged.

Usually there is a primary condensate collection drip pan connected to a drain location, and a separate condensate overflow pan and drain to handle the sort of problem you describe.

J,

replacing the drip tray under a rooftop A/C unit is easy or difficult depending on how it was installed. If the installer left sufficient slack (a flexible loop) in the refrigerant piping and electrical wiring, the system can be raised very carefully, disturbing the piping as little as possible to avoid causing a leak in the refrigerant lines. Then the new tray is placed beneath.

But if there is insufficient slack in refrigerant tubing and wiring, moving the system to install a new drip tray is a big deal because you'd have to evacuate the system, cut refrigerant lines, then install the tray, then repair the lines and clear and recharge the whole system.

That procedure is so much trouble and cost that most folks will try to find and repair leaks in the existing drip tray first.

Kelli,

I suspect that the condensate drain is clogged - usually a little brush can clear a trap in that line - but yes, if you keep water from overflowing into the attic by any means you can keep running the system. But it sounds troublesome. I'd focus on getting someone to clear the drain.

Reader follow-up:

Thanks Dan. We will see if the condenser has any slack to lift it off of the tray. Any other ideas?? I also saw someone mention something about some of the moisture from the condenser being sucked into the air intake then resting in the ventilation somewhere, pooling, then leaking. Since the air intake is a big hole just under the condenser, I consider this a possibility. Any ideas on this one? - J

Reply:

Sometimes in the air handler the blower pushes moisture off of the cooling coil and off into the ductwork - common in very humid spots like Florida.

Question: A/C condensate pan emergency overflow float switch

Can someone tell me what an emergency float switch typically cost? I have one attached to my drip pan on an Amana. - Molly 8/11/11

Reply:

Molly

if you need an air conditioner condensate pan or drip tray float switch installed, the cost will principally be the fee for an HVAC service call to install the switch in the pan (trivial) and wire it to the A/C controls (less than an hour). Figure $100. to $150.

The switch itself, such as the Safe-T-Switch Model SS3 sold as a drip pan overflow shut-off switch, retails from $30.00 to $50.00 U.S.

 

Question: A/C condensate blows into the duct work

An earlier comment mentioned air pushed into the duct by the blower.

I have had condensate leaking from the bottom duct of my downflow system for several years on to the garage floor. Has not been a big issue because I live in Oregon and only use AC a few days a summer and humidity is very low.

I have determined that the condensate is blowing or splashing out of the tray in the center of the evaporate.

The drain is OK. What can be done about this? I will be selling the house next year and I,m sure it will be an issue. - Dan 8/20/11

Reply:

Dan,

While some of my associates (M. Cramer, Tampa) point out that a small amount of condensate blow-off at the cooling coil and even small amounts of mold in that area (usually Cladosporium sp. in my tests) are not necessarily a functional issue, I'm still looking for a "fix" for condensate blowing out of the drip tray;

I agree that it's common, especially in very humid areas. My associate Mark Cramer, a Florida home inspector and educator, says they just live with it and they don't believe mold is much of an issue in ductwork; I think .... also paraphrasing Mark... it depends.

Small amounts of immobile Cladosporium sphaerospermum sticking to insulation may have no detectable effect in the living area;

Aspergillus or Penicillium mold in the same area would be more of a worry. This is a good question to take to the manufacturers to ask what design changes in air handler airflow control may be in the works. - DF

 

Question: Condensate Drip Tray Replacement

can the drip pan be replaced with out replacing the condenser itself - Peter 5/6/12

Reply:

Peter:
Yes, well sort-of. It can be difficult on many air handlers to get a new drip pan in place inside of an air handler without doing some disassembly.

But drip pans and their replacement take place inside the indoor unit, the air handler or blower unit - and have nothing to do with the outdoor condenser unit.

 

Question: Condensate Drip Tray Not Level

Our condensation drip pan is not level, so the condensate water is flowing away from the drain hose and overflowing into our furnace instead of down the drain. I was told the pitch of the pan needs to be adjusted- what is the best and safest way to adjust the pitch? Our AC unit is on top of our furnace. - Tony 6/22/12

Reply:

Tony, to properly adjust the slope of the condensate drip pan you need to know how it is secured and what movement is possible;

I don't have enough information to figure it out from just your comment; you could try sending some sharp photos to the CONTACT US link. If the pan is "pinned" under the A/C unit itself, you may not be able to level the pan without moving the whole assembly.

If the pan moves freely it may just be shimmed. But if this is a new problem, that is if it used to drain, I'd look for what changed and ask why - that'd be diagnostic.

 

Question: Condensate dripping out of the air handler

My indoor ac unit is dripping water from somewhere in the upper part of the system.

I checked what I believe is the condensate drain and it doesn't appear blocked. Interestingly, this drain goes into the floor (concrete basement floor) into a hole. I can't see into the hole since it's under a corner of the unit.

I cut the PVC drain pipe so I could get my wet vac to it. I didn't get an appreciable amount of junk from the pipe and will replace it shortly.

Also, the lines from the outside unit are freezing a bit and I see condensation along the lines that lead to the inside unit. Any information would be appreciated. - Duane 7/8/12

Recently, I have noticed water dripping down the outside of my furnace.

The A coil is above the furnace, drain is located on the side of the drip pan, and the coil and integrated pan are "lift able" (not attached to the furnace) so it can be shimmed which I tried. I cleared the drain, but it was not clogged.

The drip pan is showing a large amount of rust and I suspect pinholes in it, so the water is dripping through it rather than going to the drain. I have researched and found a product called Pancrete which appears to be made for just this problem. Has anyone here used this product and would they recommend it? System is Ruud upflow furnace approximately 18 years old. - Jeff F. 7/21/12

Reply:

Duane:

A first step in diagnosing condensate dripping out of the air handler is to determine if the entry into the condensate drain or any later portion of the drain is clogged - if water can't get from the pan into and down the drain the pan is going to overflow.

Also on occasion I find misaligned A/C components, a pan that is not in the right place, a pan that has corroded and is leaky, or missing insulation on a refrigerant line that is causing condensate to drip somewhere other than into the drip tray.

Jeff

I haven't looked at PanCrete but will see if I can find and review the product literature; it's worth a try if it can seal a corroded condensate pan instead of having to tear the system apart to get a new one in place.

Condensate drip tray replacement under an A coil in a cooling system such as the one you describe can be tight.

 

Question: Blower unit won't come on - the condensate drip tray is filled up - is there a float switch?

my outside unit is working but my blower in the attic is not, After checking my one 10amp fuse I noticed that not only was my drip pans filled but so wa the bottom insulation of my system, I have to separate drain pipe...do I still have a float switch and what should I do next? - Anon 7/16/12

Reply:

Anon:

Float switches are used in condensate OVERFLOW pans as a safety measure to shut down the system when condensate is not draining properly - to avoid a flood out of the pan and into the house ceilings.

But if your overflow pan has its own drain it usually won't have an overflow switch. In other words usually there is either an overflow pan with a drain, or an overflow pan with a water-sensing switch that shuts down the system if ANY water appears in the overflow pan.

Because you say your overflow pan has a separate drain pipe, I suspect it won't have a switch.

If you had an overflow switch you would see it and its wires somewhere in the bottom of the overflow pan.

So you need to look for a different problem: lost power, a blower compartment door open (those have a safety switch that shuts off power if someone opens the door - to avoid getting chopped by the blower fan), or a bad control, relay, etc.

 

Question: How Much Condensate Flow Should I be Seeing From My Air Conditioner - what's normal?

I have noticed quite alot of water draining from my drain hose which comes from the unit located in the attic.

The drain hose comes from the attic unit, then outside and down the side of my home. I placed a bucket under the drain pipe due to the amount of water pooling around the foundation of the home. I can usually fill up this 5 gallon bucket within a day or two with the water draining. Is this normal? - Patrick S 7/30/12

Reply:

Patrick,

Normal A/C or heat pump condensate flow ranges from nothing to considerable, even quarts per hour in some residential installations and of course still more in larger commercial systems.

A system that is operating in a dry environment or that has been on for some time may be encountering little moisture to remove from the conditioned air, while an air conditioner running in very humid conditions may pull an enormous amount of water from the air.

In humid conditions an A/C system can produce a lot of condensate - it's not abnormal unless there is also an abnormal source of moisture in the building.

Also when a cooling system is first activated after some period of disuse, as it removes moisture from the building air, more moisture from absorbent building materials (drywall, for example) continues to enter the building air until the moisture level in both air and building contents has been reduced to a stable level.

And of course there is no simple "correct" condensate quantity because in addition to these environmental variables, the cubic feet and type of area being air conditioned varies from building to building as does the dehumidification capacity of the equipment.

As long as

• there are no improper in-building moisture sources
• there are no odd leaks into the ductwork from some plumbing or other source
• the condensate is successfully draining out of the system to an acceptable destination

you're probably ok.

Watch out: about too little condensate production from an air conditioner or heat pump: we explain in detail at DEHUMIDIFICATION PROBLEMS that if an air conditioner is over-sized it will cool the space off too rapidly and it won't dehumidify adequately.

 

Question: no discharge from condensate drain

My outside A/C unit turns on. I checked the drain pipe and put bleach and tried to flush with water still the blower inside the unit doesn't turn on. I changed the air filter, checked the power, changed the batteries in the thermostat as part of figuring out the problem.

If I turn the air conditioner on then it starts to show condensation on the panel of the furnace and it feels really cold but still no blower.

I don't see the drip pan and I don't know what the overflow sensor would look like for me to check these before I call for service.

I have an American Standard Freedom 80 unit in my hall closet. It is 6 years old. If I call an air company what would they typically charge for running diagnostics, and replacing a blower or blower motor or drip pan/sensor? Just trying not to get scammed. Thank you (June 23, 2014) jv

Reply:

JV it sounds as if your blower fan motor is not running. A condensate pan overflow switch could indeed leave the blower OFF, as would a blower compartment door switch if the door was not fully shut - you'd want to check these simple conditions before paying for a service call.

If those steps don't help and given what you've already checked, I suspect there could be a broken fan belt if your blower uses a fan, or a blower motor that's not working, or a bad fan relay or control.

Typically the service company charges a minimum fee for a service call + parts. Under $200. The tech will check for power at the fan, check the fan motor and controls, etc.

Question: frequent condensate drain drips

My brand new attic ac unit is dripping quite frequently in a few places directly undeath the unit itself.

I've also noticed that the area around my drip pan is saturated but the water level inside the pan isn't very high at all. First of all, should there be dripping of this nature directly from the unit and not from a drainage tube, duct work, etc and what is causing the saturation around the perimeter of my drip pan with such low water levels inside it?

Could my pan (approx 5 weeks old) have a crack? (July 2, 2014) Brenna

Reply:

Brenna, check for a clogged or misrouted condensate drain, a unit that is not properly sloped to send condensate into the drain, or missing insulation causing condensate to form sand drip in a spot where it misses the drip tray

 

Question: AC won't turn on: check condensate tray or pan float switch

Our AC will not turn on. The fan will not turn on either.

I am trying to figure out how the overflow safety switch feature works and how to fix the tubing in case it is clogged. I was able to pour the water out of the condensate tray but it is still not coming on. Is the safety switch inside the pump? I cannot find the switch.

The pump did start when I was tilting it to pour it out. But the AC is still not kicking on. MODEL kt3x-2ul automatic condensate removal pump (July 14, 2014) Rebecca

Reply:

Rebecca, not all condensate pans use an overflow switch - some provide dual condensate drains at different levels, or a second pan below the first one.

If there were a condensate pan overflow switch you'd see the switch and wires leading to it right in the condensate tray.

 

Question: Goodman Heat Pump & Air Conditioner Model a36-10 serial number 9506121001. The air flow is weak

I have a Goodman Heat Pump & Air Conditioner Model a36-10 serial number 9506121001. The air blowing from the vent was very faint. I had to put my hand all the way up to the vent in order to feel the air. I replaced the blower fan...that didn't help. The drain line was clogged...got that cleared.

The main culprit appears to be that the safety switch wasn't working and when it was repaired the air blew out really hard. I was told that the safety switch caused the outside unit not to run, only the attic unit had been running. I am no in search of the safety switch to replace the part bc it continues to go out.

Is there a universal switch...a switch specifically made for the drain pan...or a switch specifically made for the unit brand and model?

I had someone to take a pic of it so I'd at least recognize it if I see it but I haven't had any luck yet. Please help! Thanks in advance! Aug 10, 2014) Tamieka

Reply:

Tamieka

Thanks for the interesting question, though if this helps I have to say I can't make sense out of what you were told.

If an outside compressor is not running the result is that refrigerant is not sent to the indoor cooling coil in the air handler - so air won't be cooled.

But the outside compressor has no direct effect on the fan speed of the indoor compressor condenser unit.

I'd think that if there were a safety circuit that shut off the air conditioning system on sensing that the compressor was not working at all, there would be NO air flow, rather than weak air flow.

I'd like to know what safety switch we're discussing. For example a door safety switch turns off the indoor air handler if one if its opening covers is ajar.

 

Question: backup for the backup condensate overflow pan?

Hi, we have the overflow switch installed but the drain pan cracked twice within the last 4 years.

The installer said due to the cracked drain pan, it did not hit the overflow switch. As a result, water leaked into bedroom and bathroom. Should there be secondary pan when the drain pan & overflow switch fail? Who should handle the cost to replace drywall, carpet, etc? (Sept 5, 2014) Van

Reply:

The pan you describe already was supposed to be a backup to the primary drain system. I would not add a third one. Rather, fis the reason for pan cracking and fis the primary condensate drain that should not be leaking into the overflow pan in the first place.

 

Question: AC condensate repairs

If I have an AC line inside a pitch pan and it is broke, how does the roofer/AC guy make repairs to this line since the pitch pan is full of some type of sealant? (Sept 23, 2014) Anonymous

My Ac and heat both aren't working all of the sudden the fan blows but it seems to be just circulating air not heating or cooling it. (Sept 24, 2014) Rob said:

Reply:

Rob the diagnostic suggestions at

LOST COOLING CAPACITY

should help you

 

Question:

My Ac does not have a secondary/ overflow pan. I was considering having one installed but not sure how much is reasonable. Any idea what's the going price? (Oct 3, 2014) Joe G

Reply:

Joe

The install price for a drip pan depends on the trouble of getting it in place - the pan itself is a trivial expense - along with the trouble of routing its discharge piping to a suitable drain location. So I don't know what your case involves.

A much less costly alternative that is fine for many buildings is to install a condensate overflow switch that will shut off the system if the primary pan is not working properly - say clogs and doesn't drain.

 

Question: condensate pan material: metal vs plastic

Are coil drip pans and backup exterior base pans always metal or can they be plastic? In either case can either crack or develop holes and leak? (Mar 20, 2015) Anonymous

Reply:

Yes to all of the questions

On 2012-12-07 by Steve

My new unit has an overflow pan under the a/c unit and the pan has a cut off switch that shuts the unit off it water gets in the pan (lever type with a float). The overflow pan is mounted at a very steep angle (2" over 3'). Should the pan have that much angle or should it be more level?

Reply by (mod) -

Steve, i don't usually see that much pitch on a condensate overflow pan, but as long as the overflow pan sensor switch is in the low end you should be ok.

My A/C isn't working: how do I get it running again?

My a/c fan, and condenser are not working, it was time to change the filter it was dirty so I changed it, I saw the capacitor was popped up, I thought that was the issue, and my fan/condenser are still not running. I did have a clogged over flow drain line for the condenser pan...

drained that, and still nothing, I checked power to the fan, I got that. What else is there to look at? I did some research on a restart button or switch, but I cannot find one anywhere. Can anyone help money is hard and cant waste it on a tech to come to my house and charge me up the love. On 2012-08-30 by Ryan

Suggestion by Mod

Anon
I would try following the diagnosis starting

at LOST COOLING CAPACITY: DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE A/C or HEAT PUMP 

I see condensate water coming out of my A/C unit: is that normal?

I went look in attic and the water is dripping from the unit itself(in the attic) not the line.

I have a two story home I had the ac guy come and repair both of my units last week he changed points and switches in the units outside.

Today one of my ac units is dripping water into the overflow tray and it is dripping outside which is ok but why is it all of a sudden doing this, it has never done this before. Is it something I can fix or do I need to call a ac guy again? Thanks for the help in advance. - On 2012-08-24 by Mike in Texas - I

Moderator reply: normal A/C condensate vs abnormal

It's normal to see condensate draining outside your building and it means that your A/C unit is working properly, removing humidity (moisture) from the air inside your building. If you never saw condensate drainage before it's possible that

• You simply didn't look when condensate was being produced and drained
• You are running the system in more-humid weather, producing more condensate
• Your system is working better than it was before - cooling better and thus dehumidifying better than before the repair
• A window is open somewhere and you're letting abnormal amounts of moist outdoor air into the home

On 2012-08-06 by Bonita May

It seems the drain pipe coming from the portion of the heat pump that is in my attic has a lot of condensation on it and it has built up and dripped in to the insulation causing a huge discoloration on my ceiling. is this normal and how can I fix this?

On 2012-08-08 by (mod) -

Bonita,

If the condensate drain is not leaking, but is uninsulated and running through a warm area like an attic, indeed the cool condensate inside the drain line could cause moisture in attic air to condense enough to drip off and stain a ceiling below.

If that's what's happening in your case, I'd insulate the drain line with foam snap-on insulation.

 

What's a normal amount or volume of A/C condensate?

I have noticed quite alot of water draining from my drain hose which comes from the unit located in the attic.

The drain hose comes from the attic unit, then outside and down the side of my home. I placed a bucket under the drain pipe due to the amount of water pooling around the foundation of the home.

I can usually fill up this 5 gallon bucket within a day or two with the water draining. Is this normal? On 2012-07-30 by Patrick S

Explanation by (mod) -

Patrick, in humid conditions an A/C system can produce a lot of condensate - it's not abnormal unless there is also an abnormal source of moisture in the building.

Also when a cooling system is first activated after some period of disuse, as it removes moisture from the building air, more moisture from absorbent building materials (drywall, for example) continues to enter the building air until the moisture level in both air and building contents has been reduced to a stable level.

And of course there is no simple "correct" condensate quantity because in addition to these environmental variables, the cubic feet and type of area being air conditioned varies from building to building as does the dehumidification capacity of the equipment.

As long as

- there are no improper in-building moisture sources

- there are no odd leaks into the ductwork from some plumbing or other source

- the condensate is successfully draining out of the system to an acceptable destination

you're ok.

...

...

Continue reading at CONDENSATE DRIP TRAY DEFECTS - topic home, or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see these

HVAC Condensate Articles

• CONDENSATE HANDLING, HVAC
  • CONDENSATE LEAKS
  • CONDENSATE PUMPS
  • CONDENSATE DISPOSAL, IMPROPER
  • CONDENSATE DRAINS, CODES
  • CONDENSATE DRAIN CLEAN & DE-CLOG
  • CONDENSATE DRAIN INSULATION REQUIREMENTS
  • CONDENSATE DRAIN PROBLEMS
  • CONDENSATE DRIP TRAY DEFECTS
  • CONDENSATE PAN SWITCH LOCKOUT
  • Legionella BACTERIA & HVAC EQUIPMENT
  • CONDENSING BOILER/FURNACE CONDENSATE DRAIN
• DUCT SYSTEM DESIGN SIZE & DEFECTS - home
• SLAB DUCTWORK
• WATER & ICE IN DUCT WORK
• WET CORRODED DUCT WORK

Suggested citation for this web page

CONDENSATE DRIP TRAY FAQs at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

Or see this

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to AIR CONDITIONING & HEAT PUMPS

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