Structural connectors, fasteners, bolts, nails, joist hangers, rafter ties etc.: this article explains the proper selection and installation of structural connectors, brackets & tie plates used to connect deck or porch framing and support members.
USP connectors such as joist hangers, joist angles, joist supports, stud shoes, skew hangers, and face mount hangers used for connecting these hangers and connectors are described, their uses explained, and their applications and specifications linked.
Both galvanized steel and stainless steel joist hangers, connectors, & brackets may be applied.
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This article includes excerpts or adaptations from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction (Steve Bliss, J Wiley & Sons) , by Steven Bliss, courtesy of Wiley & Sons.
Also see our BOOK REVIEW of that book.
Our page top photo shows a hybrid deck structure that encompasses a boat. No fasteners were found securing the boat to the deck however.
At minimum, all structural hardware for decks should be hot-dipped galvanized steel. For the best protection, use stainless steel (see “Joist Hangers and Connectors,” below).
At connections carrying structural loads, such as deck ledgers or railing posts, use through-bolts or lag screws.
Through-bolts are stronger
and should be used where possible. For the heaviest connections on a deck, such as where ledgers attach to the house or to posts, use 1/2-inch bolts or lags.
Place large washers under the heads
of lags and at both ends of through-bolts. Re tighten bolts and lags after the first year and check periodically for tightness.
Where both sides of the joint are accessible, bolts offer the strongest connections. Drill pilot holes 1/32 to 1/16 inch larger than the diameter of the bolt so it will slide through easily.
After drilling, saturate the hole with preservative. Use large washers under both the head and nut. Re tighten after the first year, since the wood may have shrunk.
The damaged, over-nailed wood framing shown in our photo is discussed
at TOE NAILED FRAMING CONNECTIONS.
For lag bolted deck connections,
drill a full-diameter pilot hole for the unthreaded portion and a smaller hole (65 to 75% of the lag’s diameter) for the threaded portion. So, for example, a 1/2-inch lag would get a 5/16-inch pilot hole for the threaded portion; a 3/8-inch diameter lag would get a 1/4-inch diameter pilot hole.
After drilling, saturate the pilot hole with wood preservative. It is also important that at least half the length of the lag is threaded into solid wood.
For example, driving a 5-inch lag through a 4x4 post into a 2x joist will produce a weak connection with only 1 1/2 inches of anchoring. Instead, the lag screw should go through the 2x and be threaded into the thicker 4x4. Use a large washer under the head, and re tighten after the first year in case materials have shrunk.
At a minimum, use hot-dipped galvanized hardware. With pressuretreated wood, hot-dipped galvanized steel should conform to ASTM A153 (for fasteners) or ASTM A653, G185 (for connectors).
Stainless steel offers the best protection. Type 304 or higher stainless steel is recommended for very wet environments such as poolside decks; or Type 326 for exposure to salt or saltwater.
Watch out: Also, do not mix metals: Use stainless-steel fasteners with stainless-steel connectors and galvanized fasteners with galvanized connectors.
Stainless steel or galvanized steel joist hangers, connectors and similar products are produced by Simpson Strong Tie, Incom, Schuler Manufacturing, State Metals, Daytona Bolt & Nut, Hutchinson, Cleveland Steel, U.S. Lumber, Hohmann & Barnard, and Direct Tools & Fasteners as well as Paslode, Grip Rite joist hanger nails and other specialty nails.
-- Adapted with permission from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction (Steve Bliss, J Wiley & Sons) .
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Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.
orries that drilled bolt holes in wood promote rot
Through bolt bolt vs. lag screw. While a through bolt application is stronger than a lag screw in terms of overall strength. It should be noted that using a through bolt where a level bolt hole is drilled through wood
In exterior applications water will seep into and collect in the bolt hole accelerating water damage and rot at the connection point.
Using a proper size lag screw for the intended load, along with the proper hole drilling procedure will eliminate the area where water collects around the lag screw connector, reducing the water damage and wood rot factor significantly. - On 2020-05-28 by Darrell W
Reply bydanjoefriedman (mod): research on structural wood rot due to drilled holes for bolts
Thank you, Darrell, for making a very interesting point on lag screws vs. through bolts for structural connectors.
Even a quick scan of research on this topic suggests that your point is more than just speculative opinion that rot at through-bolt holes can be a problem (Ho 2007).
If you can add any expert source or research citations to this topic that'd be great.
What I found in searching for research on rot damage at through-bolt framing or timber connections (+ nailing) is given below.
OK to use galvanized wood deck screws in joist hangers?
I'm using galvanize deck screws to hang joise hangers for 2x8 three feet long. Instead of nails is that ok ? - On 2017-11-14 by Larry Jacob
Reply by mod: if the screws you are using are structural screws and specifically say they're intended for use with joist hangers that's fine. I worry that they're not.
Structural screws that are intended for use with joist hangers are labeled for that purpose and are shorter and heavier than wood screws used to secure deck boards to a joist.
What are the right bolts to use to connect metal post base to concrete piers?
? on concrete anchors is in Richmond, VA. Posts (about 4 feet) are sold at Home Depot, made by Barrette. Posts are metal with a metal base with 4 holes at 3/8 inch. Manufacturer's instructions says to "Follow masonry anchor installation instructions." but they do not provide them.
Their instructions for mounting on wood deck says to use 5/16 diameter grade 5 bolts and nuts galvanized per ASTM F2329. Metal post has à vinyl sleeve that covers the top of any bolts/anchors that are used.
Local building inspector office - I have asked 3 different employees and they each have given me a12 page handout for wood decks and handrails.
When I tell them "this is concrete & metal" they say "just go by our handout" = it says 1/2 botls that are 4 inches long.
These bolts are too big to insert in the metal posts. (grrr!) On 2015-08-25 by DavidElswick
Reply by danjoefriedman (mod): use L-bolts or expanding anchor bolts into concrete pier top to hold steel post base bracket
David
I was born in Richmond so I know the weather - not so much freezing but enough to want to avoid frost damage to the connectors. Look into a drill and epoxy fill lag bolt anchor system from your local hardware store.
Yes the people you are asking are ducking and weaving. Just sayinTypically the installer uses a wet set anchor "L" bolt put into the concrete pier to anchor the post bracket to the pier - such as the Wet Set Anchor L-Bolts shown below from Midwest Perma Column
If you need to install steel post bracket bolts into a concrete pier that has already been cast and set, you'll drill into the base and use an expanding anchor type bolt instead. In that case I add sealant to the hole before inserting the expanding bolt lead anchors so that I minimize the risk of future frost damage to the pier top.
On 2015-08-24 by Size screws 4 post on concrete porch?
Need to mount metal posts to a concrete porch (over 55 years old) and a new concrete porch with a brick veneer wall (where posts will be mounted). New metal posts have a 3/8 inch hole but no instructions on how to anchor. What size of lag screw should I use & what size of lag shield? How long should the lag screw be?
Have asked my local building inspection department 3 times, and each time they give me a handout for wood posts on a wood deck which calls for 1/2 * 4 inch screws.
Reply by danjoefriedman (mod)
Charming to let you figure out the critical point, right, including not just what fasteners, but also what connection will be strong enough to be safe. Not knowing just what metal post system you are installing I'm not sure what to prescribe.
Typically we secure things to concrete using either lead anchors and galvanized 3/8" lag screws or we might try using tapcons (R). But watch out: especially in a freezing climate we need to worry about water getting into those screw openings followed by freeze damage leading to slab damage and to unsafe railings.
There are expoxy systems used to mount exterior bolts in concrete surfaces that may avoid that trouble.
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