Questions & answers about all types of foundation cracks, movement, damage in buildings:

FAQs help explain how to interpret or diagnose different sorts of cracks that may appear in the masonry foundationa of a building: crack types and causes in brick, stone, concrete foundations, walls, footings, floor slabs.

This article series provides a guide to identifying & evaluating different types of concrete or masonry foundation, wall or floor cracks in buildings: this article series describes how to recognize and diagnose various types of foundation failure or damage, such as foundation cracks, masonry foundation crack patterns, and moving, leaning, bulging, or bowing building foundation walls.

Q&A on How to Evaluate Building Foundation Cracks & Movement & Foundation Crack Patterns

Foundation cracks, which are signs of foundation damage, can mean very different things depending on the material from which a foundation is made, the location, size, and shape of the foundation crack, and other site observations.

The size, shape, pattern, location of foundation cracks on a building, along with correlation with other site and construction conditions helps distinguish among probable causes.

These questions & answers about types of foundation cracks & damage were posted originally at FOUNDATION CRACK DICTIONARY - be sure to review that article for help in diagnosing the cause and finding the cure for cracks and foundation damage by type of material, type of crack or movement, etc.

On 2015-11-04 by (mod) re: where to inspect to diagnose a sinking wall

Arlinda

Inspect outside and below the wall such as in the basement or crawl area: first to determine where the movement is occurring and second to see its extent. For example, severe rot and insect damage could explain the movement you describe as could foundation settlement.

On 2015-11-04 by Arlinda

Kitchen wall sinking due to water which we found leaking in from the drain. The wall has a large crack , the door and ceiling have on that side have come away from the wall.

On 2015-10-01 by Gord

I have an attached garage that has cracked from the foundation up both walls and across entire slab, clay base soil, how can I repair and prevent more movement of clay base? Also I live in a cold climate area

On 2015-07-29 by (mod) re: how serious are hairline cracks

An engineer will consider *any* crack a *failure* - but hairline cracks in un-bowed walls do not typically threaten imminent collapse.

Get the water and thus frost away from the wall outside. Check gutters and surface runoff. Then seal and monitor the crack.

On 2015-07-28 by Bob

in addition there is no other visual evidence going on of any damages

My foundation is block and just noticed a horizontal crack 1/8 inch just below the frost line. The wall is perfectly straight and i put a 6 foot level on it and there are no bows within the wall. is this structural or just a crack which is cosmetic and what is the remedy to fix?

On 2015-07-27 by (mod) re: do the cement walls have to extend to the footings?

Interesting question, Sister,

The idea that we might bind a column to an existing poured concrete wall that itself would distribute the column's load across a large area is an interesting one. (If that's what you are saying).

but we are missing too much information to give a sure answer to what should be addressed by your architect or engineer. We don't know: the loads involved on the present structure, the purpose of nor loads on the new column (pillar) you are adding, whether or not there is steel re-bar or mesh reinforcement in the existing concrete slab, the conditions of soils below the slab or site drainage that may affect such soils, nor what your local building department will approve.

While low-load columns are sometimes permitted to bear on a 6-inch reinforced steel slab, given how little we know about your situation, a "safe" answer would be to cut open the slab in an area large enough to excavate and install a footing suitable for the soils in your area.

On 2015-07-27 by Sister cement walls need to go down o the footings?

I have a fairly wide crack, larger than 1/4"(happened about 40 years ago when house was being built) right outside my exterior cement poured foundation wall. The crack starts at about 4 feet from the ground and travels slightly diagonal but verical right to the bottom of the first brick. My question is i want to build an interior 1 foot by 1 foot by 7 foot tall sister cement pillar (this pillar being right behind the crack) reinforced with rebar.

I will then drill holes from the outside where the crack is to then pin the cracked part into this new cement pillar which is subsequently pinned to an adjacent cement wall that is not cracked and then fill whole crack with epoxy to solidify. This pillar is basically being poured in the corner of a garage. Does the pillar need to go down to the footing or can it just rest on the garage slab which is about 5 to 6 inches thick?

Thanks

PS Does not look like there has been any additional movement since the crack formed

On 2015-04-13 by (mod) re: where can one purchase Polyurethene polymer injection material?

Anon

seePOLYURETHANE FOAM INJECTION where we discuss polyurethane foam injection, products, methods, sources

On 2015-04-10 by Anonymous

where can one purchase Polyurethene polymer injection material?

Question: cracks caused by power washing the structure?

4/7/14 Becky said:

My question is this: Are hairline cracks (with water staining) that are in line with the mortar in a cinder block wall in a basement considered evidence of "STRUCTURAL COMPROMISE"?

Here's why I ask:

1. From 2002 when my husband bought the house to Feb 2014, we had NO water in the basement (80 yr old house w/ French drain and sump pump).

2. In early Feb 2014, our tenant informed us of a small amount of water coming in through these hairline cracks and sent the picture. He cleaned it up and the water never returned.

3. When we were preparing the house for sale, I had two contractors look at the the water-stained cracks, along with several other items to be addressed -- both said the cracks (now bone-dry, in a bone-dry basement) were "not a big deal" and could be readily addressed with caulking, priming, painting (actually only one mentioned caulking) -- which I've learned is regarded as routine maintenance.

4. The same day the contractor came to work in the basement, I had another service person cleaning windows -- his assistant was power-washing the exterior of the house.

Although I had asked them to avoid that side of the house where the cracks were until we were sure what was going on (the one contractor was concerned about the window above the cracks, turned out not to be a problem),

(A) the seal was not secure between the faucet and hose to the power-washer (spraying water in all directions),

(B) the faucet was about 1.5' from the window/wall in question, and

(C) the power-washer seemed to be going at it full-force 6 hours+ -- a 1100 sq foot house.

(I've since learned this should have taken about 1.5 hours, also that it's not the best idea to do it when the ground is frozen --

we live in Maryland, where we've been hit with a lot of very cold weather, snow, etc.) I called a waterproofing company (with GREAT reviews, A+ BBB rating) who said immediate cause of the damage was the sudden, rapid influx of HUGE amount of water. They also updated our drainage system. Never mentioned structural compromise in that wall.

Reply:

"Structural compromise" is an undefined term.

A structural engineer will typically aver that masonry structures are not supposed to crack, and that any crack is a "failure". But an experienced foundation engineer, mason, or someone with similar expertise will usually make a distinction between cracks and movement that are an urgent threat to the structure, those that need monitoring, and those that need prompt repair to prevent a catastrophe.

And no such prescription would ge complete without understanding the cause.

It is possible that water under, against, and around a foundation combined with freezing would cause cracks; but just "cracks" is far too vague to reach such a conclusion. The size, shape, location, pattern, and site history and other factors need to be understood before one can ascribe a cause to a masonry crack.

On 2014-07-08 by (mod) - the crack goes completely through the foundation wall to the outside in both walls.

Whti I'm getting at is a determination of the crack history as that helps us decide what to anticipate. Sudden new movement in a 40 year old home would be more of a concern while if we think the cracks date from original construction and are unchanging, then only sealing may be in order.

Look very closely into the vertical cracks for old paint, dust, mineral deposits that may indicate old age. Look too at the leak history.

If cracks are recent we will have some different suggestions.

This sounds like footing and fill settlement, often caused by inadequate soil compression and building on fill. What is the calendar of events, construction and first crack observation and crack changes?

On 2014-07-07 by Ed

Dan, the crack goes completely through the foundation wall to the outside in both walls.

On 2014-07-07 by (mod) - vertical crack about 3/8" thick on one wall from floor to the sill plate

Ed
You can patch the crack with any of several sealants but first it's important to diagnose the cause of the cracking - as that determines what to expect in the future and suggests whether or not other more costly repairs are in order.

On 2014-07-06 y Ed

We are purchasing a 40 year old home that has a vertical crack about 3/8" thick on one wall from floor to the sill plate with a corresponding crack on a wall 90 degrees from it on another wall the same height.What would be the best fix and at what cost?

On 2014-05-19 by (mod) -

George, In the ARTICLE INDEX please take a look at the article titled

FOUNDATION DAMAGE & REPAIR GUIDE - home

and let us know if questions remain.

On 2014-05-19 by George

My cottage has a cinder block basement with a approx. 2-4 mil wide vertical crack that you can see right through to the outside. What is the best way to repair this.

On 2014-05-10 1 by (mod) - freeze protection is important for a successful cold weather pour of concrete

Ted, indeed freeze protection is important for a successful cold weather pour. Just what steps are required vary by the job. For example concrete may fail to bond to steel reinforcement at low temperatures unless the re-bar is heated too.

But if a crack is continuing to develop when warm weather appears, I suspect other forces at work such as poor site work, pouring on loose fill, or a footing problem. You need an on-site expert to help determine the cause, extent of movement, implications for the building and thus to specify any needed repairs.

If there is a chance that there will be a need for costly repairs and if you want to move to close before diagnosing the problem and specifying a repair that may be needed, the minimum you may want to consider is having enough inspection done to get a repair cost for the worst-case, then discuss with your attorney how by escrow or allowance you're to be protected.

Jeeop us posted.

On 2014-05-09 1 by Ted

We have a new home being constructed. The foundation was poured during the coldest day this winter - it was down in the single digits by the end of the pour, and the following week was similarly cold.

The metal forms were left on several days, and a tarp was (partly) thrown over the top of the forms, but mostly it was all open to the wind and snow. The builder says that accelerator was added to the concrete. Within 1 month of the pour (just before the framing was to begin), a floor to ceiling crack appeared, spidering about halfway down. This crack appears not to have gotten larger since.

Just yesterday, I noticed three new top-to-bottom cracks, two over windows and one over the double-sliding glass door of the walkout (this one looks the widest). All three are visible on both inside and outside of the home.

My concern is whether these could be signs of the strength of the concrete and possible future problems.

The builder gives a warranty on the foundation, but (whatever it is, 1 year or 5), but I am concerned about the overall integrity. It is stressful to us because we just want to move toward closing and do not want delays but neither do we want a foundation that is going to cause us problems or reduce our ability to re-sell this home.

Is there a way to diagnose and find out if we should ask for an extended warranty before we close on this home?

On 2014-02-20 by tommy

i live in a trailer built in 1972, and i believe my house has shifted for several reasons

1. all four corners around one of my windows have cracked through the drywall. the cracks are all atleast 3ft. long and about 1/4 to 1/2 inch wide. the cracks are running diagonally from the corners and are larger at the top than the bottom.

2. all the seams in my drywall are cracking along the whole trailer.

3. my door has twice now shifted along the seems so bad i couldn't shut it. i even sanded down the frame the first time to get it to shut, and it happened again. it has shifted once again diagonally where there is now a diagonal gap at the top of the door. the wood from the frame has shifted down about 1/4 each time preventing me from closing the door.

my landlord looked at it and said the foundation may have moved and that's it's not dangerous. since he is not a professional contractor, i don't just wanna take his word for it. i have three children and i am wondering, does this sound dangerous to anyone else? it sounds dangerous to me. on the last note keep in mind the two shifts in the walls happened within 1 week of eachother.

On 2014-02-15 by (mod) - Who can i call for an honest appraisal of whether this is a structural problem?

You can call:

a foundation repair contractor

a home inspector who is a real one, with competence, rather than someone who just fills out a checklist

a foundation engineer - which is costly and would be appropriate if there were a serious problem

On 2014-02-15 by Drrich

Our home has a cinder block foundation with a poured basement. When we purchased this 20 year old home there was a crack in the poured concrete basement floor from one wall to the other, about a 10 foot square area in the corner of the basement. I just noticed that it has gotten much larger maybe 1/4 inch, and the corner area is no longer level with the remainder of the slab.

Clearly settling. Who can i call for an honest appraisal of whether this is a structural problem? The side blocks are not cracked, just the flooring. Thanks. Rich. Kidsdentist@optonline.net. Ps. In new york-westchester county

On 2014-01-29 by (mod) - 2 story cottage in the Montreal, Quebec area.

K.P.

If there is no plumbing routed through the garage, including its walls and ceiling up to that second floor addition, you should be OK leaving the garage space un-heated.

When we build an addition over an un-heated space we are careful however to insulate the addition's floor as otherwise, over a cold garage we may have a cold floor.

On 2014-01-29 by K Purcell

I have a 2 story cottage in the Montreal, Quebec area.

2o years ago, an unheated garage with a second floor above was added to the side of the house. Is it necessary to keep that garage heated?
If it is supposed to be heated, how can I tell if there has been damage to the foundation from the lack of heating?

On 2013-04-01 by (mod) - large sloping crack in the concrete slab floor

Dave P

Sloping crack? I'm a little confused. But bulging tiles and cracked slab sounds as if there is enough movement to be worth investigating. With not a shred of information about your home, site, geographic area, age, construction materials, honestly giving a diganosis would be just arm-waving.

On 2013-03-3 by Dave P

I have found a large sloping crack in the concrete slab floor in my home unit which has caused the tiles in my kitchen floor to bulge up.

The crack is at a shallow angle towards the base of the wall and there is evidence of horizontal cracking at the top of this wall in my unit and in the common wall below. In the unit next door the floor is bulging upwards and the area affected apears to be about 2-3 meters in length and about 1-2 meters wide.

Any ideas what is happening and where too from here? Dave P

On 2013-03-29 by (mod) - cracks in the tile.

Stella,

Unfortunately no one can answer your question from just the facts in your note. There are other possible causes of slab cracks such as settlement or shrinkage. But if you are in an area where sinkholes are common that too could be a concern.

On 2013-03-27 by Stella

My house is 3 years old and there have been cracks in the tile. In the master bathroom, there is a crack about 6 feet long but the width of a hair strand. and another in the hall way about a ft long and same width. Is this signs of sinkhole under my house?

On 2013-03-23 by (mod) - IF the crack appeared quickly after the pour it may be a shrinkage crack -

Paul,

IF the crack appeared quickly after the pour it may be a shrinkage crack - a problem made worse by bad mix;

But if you also see a 1/2-inch settlement I suspect the pour was made on poorly compacted soil - which is too bad because we just can't know without a lot of trouble if the problem is going to stabilize or continue to get worse - it depends on how much soft soil is below the slab and also on soil moisture or water conditions.

You might need to make a test cut in one or two areas of worst settlement to see what's below the slab.

It sounds as if the whole job was not well prepared.

On 2013-03-23 by paul gallagher

Hi my kitchen floor which is poured concrete has cracked from end to end 30ft by 17ft all the cracks that come from or to points of stress eg patio door, both sides of the range the floor has cracked into 14 seperate plates. the only pattern to the cracking is that places 3 cracks join together in 4 or five places.

The floor has sunk about half an inch max in a trough from front to back and other parts seam to have risen slightly.My planner says its natural and not to worry iam not so sure. there is no other cracks eg walls inside or out.help

On 2013-03-10 by (mod) - how to evaluate a crack that appeared recently in the foundation

Sorry Jean, but from just your question, I don't know.

Sometimes a crack in a building is not new but we never noticed it - so when we do we think it's new.

Foundation crack severity depends on several factors including the

- building foundation material

- building construction type, size, etc.

- the crack location, pattern, shape, size, extent

- the presence or absence of related signs of movement

- the crack history

Bob:

For the case you describe, when a slab crack extends into the foundation wall I consider that serious enough to get an expert opinion as now the building structure is involved.

Melinda:

There is no single right answer to your question - there are many variables.

Unwuchola Clement:

Sorry I don't understand your second question.
About your first question - a foundation engineer will say that a foundation has "failed" if any cracks are present, because in her opinion the foundation was not supposed to crack at all.

But the severity of various foundation cracks, their potential impact on the structure, and the need for repair varies from nothing (a hairline shrinkage crack in poured concrete with no water leakage) to very serious and risking sudden catastropic collapse that could kill people (bulged structural brick walls).

On 2013-03-10 by Jean

I live on Long Island, NY. My house is 55 years old. I've always had one or two cracks in the foundation, but recently I noticed in the laundry room, concrete floor, a spider crack and slightly uneven by the furnace and a good sized vertical crack on the opposite of the house’s foundation.

I have a 2 story tree not far from the house that neighbors said was bending during Sandy, could that have cause the cracks. Is there a concern?

On 2012-10-11 by Bob

Our house was built in the 70s. A crack has developed that runs the entire length of the house. It now has appeared in the poured foundation. The largest crack is in the garage floor, no more than 1/16 inch. Any suggestions?

On 2012-09-30 by Melinda

How long does it take for a concrete slap of a footer to crack as cut from side to side? Is it in one season or worsen over time?

On 2012-08-22 by Unwuchola clement

How do u react to the saying, that a structure fails when it threaten the users?

On 2012-08-22 by Unwuchola clement

Must all foundation crack means dat the structure has failed?

On 2012-08-12 by (mod) -

Gil Liedel:

in the links at page bottom ARTICLE INDEX see the article titled

VERTICAL FOUNDATION CRACKS for a diagnostic guide

On 2012-08-11 by Anonymous

Anonymous

You want to take a careful look not at the foundation crack analysis starting on this page but at slab crack analysis that starts at SLAB CRACK EVALUATION (article link at page bottom ARTICLE INDEX ). There we describe how to evaluate the size, shape, location, pattern, differences in slab height on either side of the crack, etc., and importantly, to distinguish a structural crack from a shrinkage crack.

Given that you describe a site that is not level, I would consider the possibility of improperly compacted fill under part of a slab, but while anything is possible but it would be odd for a settlement crack to run dead straight through the full width or length of a slab without some underlying reason.

You can't decide if action is needed without some idea what's going on: the history, type, cause, and thus probable expectation for the future of a crack problem in a slab.

If you should ultimately need repair you should call a foundation repair company who will probably inspect, diagnose, and may propose slab jacking as a least disruptive fix.

On 2012-08-11 0 by Anonymous

We recently bought a 2-story house on a poured slab in NW Phoenix built in 2007, and had to replace the carpet.

As I tore up the carpet and removed the tack strips, I found a crack in the concrete subfloor the entire length of the house from east to west, from living room to kitchen (1 large expanse on 1st floor). It's about 1 mm in width, and also cracked a "hollow" tile and along mortar lines in the kitchen, parallel to the roof line, all the way to both walls.

There are no joints in the concrete, but there's no exposed foundation to inspect to determine whether the crack is due to shrinkage, settling, pressure, or continued soil or foundational movement.

The only place to see the vertical aspect of the crack is from the 3in concrete step from the house into the garage (also concrete, but with expansion joints all four directions from the center, and cracked down the same direction as the house, but less severely. The vertical crack in that step is slightly wider at the top, and there is every other indication that the soil under the house is settling to one side.

On the north side of the house, there's a small embankment immediately beginning abt a foot from the wall, roughly 3-4 feet lower than the slab/foundation level. The foundation is not visible due to the stucco coverage, and the soil line coming up close to the top of the foundation.

The few inches uncovered by soil or stucco are painted the stucco color with what looks like a primer/base stucco coat, so I can't analyze the foundation at all, and the builder is no longer in business due to the construction bust in the area, so I don't know whether it's a floating slab or not. My question is this: what action should we take?

We don't have money to sink into this house, and if it's going to be longer than 5 years til we see problems, we're not likely to take action.

However, if the problem accelerates or has to be repaired, who do we need to call and what type of remediation should we have to expect? There's low radon and moisture concern here, but since the effect of the crack increases with vertical distance from the ground, will the upper portions of the framework of the house be affected soon? What's the next advisable step? Thanks for experienced input

On 2012-08-08 by Gil Liedel

What may cause vertical cracks in a concrete block basement wall with the crack going down the vertical block join and continues through the center of the next block all the way down to the concrete floor? Some of these cracks have a step about the thick of a quarter.

Thanks for any insight you may provide.

On 2012-07-19 by (mod) - a floor to ceiling crack through the structural wall is not just in the stucco

Stephen, a floor to ceiling crack through the structural wall is not just in the stucco - and might indicate some settlement that might be done or might continue to get worse. (A vertical crack through concrete block is most often footing settlement.)

Right near Tampa at Indian Rocks Beach is a world class home inspector with whom you might consult, look for Mark Cramer in your phone book, online, or click on the ABOUT US link at the bottom of this page to find a page that lists Mark as a contributor to InspectApedia

InspectAPedia is an independent publisher of building, environmental, and forensic inspection, diagnosis, and repair information provided free to the public - we have no business nor financial connection with any manufacturer or service provider discussed at our website.

Keep me posted.

On 2012-07-18 by Stephen in Tampa

Our home is only 2 years old, but a crack has now formed in our garage along the right cinder block wall that is very thin, but reaches from ceiling to floor vertically, and goes all the way to the outside (visibly).

Although it is thin, it is leaking water into our garage. W had our home builder out today and he advised that this is merely a "stucko" crack that can be sealed, and is not considered "Structural Damage."

Does this sound correct? I can't possibly see how a vertical crack from floor to ceiling that passes completely through a cinder block wall is not considered "structural?"

On 2012-06-26 by (mod) -

Joda: I don't really understand your question but it's possible you're describing soil settlement around a gas meter? What "cords" go under the house. Gas meters are connected to gas piping, not cords.

Rachel: try using by JODA

WOULD TAKE A PICTURE IF I HAD A CAMERA SORRY KINDA OF LOOKS LIKE THIS ~~~~~~ ALONG THE BACK WHERE THE GAS METER IS IT'S STARTING TO SHOW THE CORDS THAT GO UNDER THE HOUSE!

On 2012-03-04 by rachel

tthis is the floor / path that surrounding my house

can anyone advise please ? the concrete that's surrounding my
house has got quite a few cracks in it each about a metre in length should i be worried ? please help as i don't have a clue about this sort of thing
thanks rachel

On 2012-01-27 by Clint Ford

We are in the middle of a remodel and tore up all the old flooring.

Upon doing do we found several cracks that go through out the floor. They all seem like hair line cracks and are 1/16 or less in width. I also put a level over all the cracks and it seems like there is slight uneveness on some of the cracks. I've also found a small horizontal crack on the outside slab and I was wondering if there was any concern to this.

On 2011-12-05 by Al Widmer, Widmer Associates/Arc

I inspected the block basement foundation walls of a 80-90 year old house with several vertical cracks. The most severe one needing a recommendation: Approximately 1/2" wide, generally same width top to bottom, thru joints and blocks at both faces of wall, minimal vertical separation, and located 6' from corner. A small vertical crack in the perpendicular wall about 6' from corner has a 1/8" horizontal offset. Recommendation?

On 2011-11-07 by Steve Moore

During the process of removing and installing a concrete garage floor, several garage foundation blocks on one side of our garage have shifted out about an inch or less. The contractor said this is mostly cosmetic, the garage foundation structure is still secure. Should I be concerned, or seek an another opinion? Thank you.

On 2011-10-13 by (mod) -

Cynthia, sorry to read about the concrete installation failure. And indeed often the mix is the trouble.
At this point, if it is cost justified, you'd need to hire an engineer who has expertise in concrete testing if you need to document and prove the cause of failure.

On 2011-10-10 by cynthia morris

Hi, my husband has been concreting for 20 years and has just poured perimeter paths around a new home. It was a windy day and the entire job has cracked all over.

The concrete company will not take responsibility. We believe the mix was incorrect. All of the men that were on the job that day commented that you could not close over the stone as it did not have enough fat or slurry. they said they had added a chemical to delay drying because of the weather. ..what advice do you have and where do we go from here? Thank you.

...

Continue reading at FOUNDATION CRACK DICTIONARY - types of cracks in foundations, or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see FOUNDATION CRACK DEFINITIONS FAQs-2 - more-recent questions & answers about types of cracks in foundations and walls

Or see these

Related Articles

• BLOCK FOUNDATION & WALL DEFECTS - home
• BRICK FOUNDATIONS & WALLS - home
• CONCRETE SLAB CRACK EVALUATION
• EARTHQUAKE DAMAGED FOUNDATIONS
• FOUNDATION CRACK DICTIONARY
• FOUNDATION DAMAGE SEVERITY
• FOUNDATION FAILURES by MOVEMENT TYPE - home
• FOUNDATION FAILURES by TYPE & MATERIAL

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