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LP gas valve at the LP gas tank or cylinder (C) Daniel FriedmanLP Gas, Propane Gas, & Natural Gas Pressure FAQs

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LP or Propane Gas Pressures & Natural Gas Pressure questions & answers:

Questions, answers, FAQs about the common operating pressures of natural gas and LP or liquid petroleum gas at the gas regulators, in building gas piping and at gas appliances.

This article series gives the standard pressure ranges and pressure settings for LP gas, propane gas, and natural gas fuels, including pressures found in the distribution service piping, in the in-building gas piping, and at gas fired appliances such as gas stoves, clothes dryers, furnaces, boilers, and LP gas or natural gas fired water heaters.

Since there several ways that people express gas pressures we include more than on description of common LP gas or natural gas system operating pressures in this article.



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What are the Typical LP or Natural Gas Set Pressures Found in Residential Systems

LP gas cylinder regulator in Two Harbors Minnesota (C) Daniel FriedmanRecent questions & answers about LP or natural gas pressures

These questions were posted at the bottom of this page or else at the topic home page at GAS PRESSURES LP vs NATURAL GAS or as comments and replies at the bottom of this page.

More-recent FAQs on this topic are at GAS PRESSURES LP & NATURAL FAQs-2

Question: more on using liquid propane in liquid form

(May 23, 2014) Lee said:

Dan, thank you for your comment. Now to answer a few of the questions that have been brought up.

The burners we are using are anywhere from 3 to 6 million BTU for corn dryers, trying to use just vapor from the tank does not work because of the variation in outside temperature (10-75 degree) to reach the heat rise needed with vapor propane you would need a 2"-3" inch line where as if you provide liquid to the burner and vaporize at the burner you can get by with a 1/2" line and the ambient temperature does not affect the system very much.

The reason for my question is that I have a disagreement with our engineering department as to trying to regulate liquid at the tank and not after vaporization, I have been in this business for 35 years and have never seen a system where you try to control the pressure of liquid propane at the tank, it has always ben done after vaporization.

I have seen it tried and there has always been an icing build up after the vaporizer just like in a air conditioner ( going from high pressure to low pressure)

If there is an answer to the volume (BTU,s) that is put through an orifice at 10 PSI would help a lot.

Reply:

Thanks, Lee. I understand the situation much better. I'm not familiar with very large btu systems such as that which you describe but surely there are many others who've solved this problem. Even on more modest LP installations we sometimes see two, even three stages of pressure regulation, a first stage at a tank, second near the appliance and a 3rd in the appliance.

At about 91.5K btus per gallon of LPG you must be flowing a huge volume even as liquid to run a 3M BTUH system. Heating
Oil no2 is about 140K see
inspectapedia.com/heat/Current_Heating_Cost_Table.php
If you piped liquid LP into an interior space and regulated presure from there could that address the icing problem without needing aux heating ?

Question: insufficient delivery of gas to appliances

(June 19, 2014) Paulette Greenberg said:

When my gas heater is running, my stove burners reduce in size considerably. The gas company says it's not the regulator. The plumber says it's not the pipes, it is the regular. The GE gas range people say it's not their appliance. How should I go about figuring what the problem is?

Reply: gas delivery pipes may be undersized for the length of run

Paulette,

How frustrating.

If the gas regulator is set to the specified output PRESSURE then the problem is most likely undersized pipes for the length of pipe involved.

If the problem were the appliance the burner output wouldn't change in the manner you describe.

Question: hooking up an LP gas grill

Photograph of a natural gas regulator on a furnace8/20/14 Nicky said:

I have a new "built-in" outside grill that I am hooking up to a 15 lb. portable propane tank (located in a separate compartment). The manufacturer said that I need to get a high pressure regulator.

The grill needs an 11" water column. What PSI would I need for that? I have found some High Pressure Stainless Braided Propane Hoses with a 30 PSI Adjustable Regulator.

Should I get the 0-30 adjustable or do I only need one with a set PSI (10 PSI for instance)? Please respond ASAP.....THANKS!

Reply:

Nicky,

I'm confused and surprised by the report of manufacturer's advice and suggest you go back to them to be sure we're all talking about the same product.

Usually we use a higher pressure LP gas regulator at a tank when the fuel delivery line is long and/or has to feed multiple appliances. Then each appliance has its own final gas pressure regulator to properly dispense gas at the right pressure to the burners.

For an LP gas grill whose portable propane tank is located right next to the grill itself, you'd think that the grill would have come with a single, adequate regulator to operate the appliance. \

What do the installation instructions for your grille say?

Reader follow-up:

Nicky said:

I have a Napoleon grill Model BIM605 which can be hooked up to propane or natural gas. The propane instructions says: "Do not use hose to connect the unit. It must be connected with either rigid pipe, copper tube or an approved flexible metal connector (I will need at least a 3 foot length). The gas supply must be connected to the 3/8" flare fitting located under the right hand side of the control panel."

It mentions using a separate line that branches off (only if using a side burner...which I'm not) It mentions the propane cylinder must be in a separate ventilated enclosure (which I have done). While trying to find the braided hose online I saw both Low & High pressure hoses,

so I called Napoleon with my model #. I was told that I would need the High pressure hose, and that the grill required 11" water column. When I asked what PSI that would be, they told me to have the Gas Company or a licensed gas fitter install it & use a manometer.

This is crazy! We don't have gas on our street, and I hate to pay to have someone come just to connect 2 ends of a hose. THANKS Dan!

Reply:

Thanks for the added detail Nicky.

11 inches WC is about 0.4 psi - very low. Using high pressure hose is always safe - it's simply more durable.

That's a standard LP appliance pressure and you'll see it appearing in our article above. Nothing odd there. But you should understand that the grill company gets scared (we all do) when hearing questions from someone they don't know - they figure if you blow yourself up they don't want to be blamed.

What's critical, besides using safe plumbing as recommended by the manufacturer is having the right pressure delivered to the burners. If the grill does not contain its own pressure regulator that's why you'd need that equipment.

You can see the typical pressures at which LP gas is delivered (as a gas) to appliances as a function of temperature, in the table in the article above.

On the portable grills I've seen the LP tank connects to a single stage regulator that is in the appliance and that regulates gas flow to the proper pressure.

At the end of the day, either you or your installer need to follow clear instructions from the manufacturer to be sure the installation is safe.

Question: what LP gas pressure in PSI is needed for a propane fired outdoor grill?

(Aug 20, 2014) Nicky said:
I have a new "built-in" outside grill that I am hooking up to a 15 lb. portable propane tank (located in a separate compartment).

The manufacturer said that I need to get a high pressure regulator. The grill needs an 11" water column. What PSI would I need for that? I have found some High Pressure Stainless Braided Propane Hoses with a 30 PSI Adjustable Regulator. Should I get the 0-30 adjustable or do I only need one with a set PSI (10 PSI for instance)? Please respond ASAP.....THANKS!

Reply:

Nicky,

I'm confused and surprised by the report of manufacturer's advice and suggest you go back to them to be sure we're all talking about the same product.

Usually we use a higher pressure LP gas regulator at a tank when the fuel delivery line is long and/or has to feed multiple appliances. Then each appliance has its own final gas pressure regulator to properly dispense gas at the right pressure to the burners.

For an LP gas grill whose portable propane tank is located right next to the grill itself, you'd think that the grill would have come with a single, adequate regulator to operate the appliance.

What do the installation instructions for your grille say?

(Aug 20, 2014) Nicky said:
I have a Napoleon grill Model BIM605 which can be hooked up to propane or natural gas. The propane instructions says: "Do not use hose to connect the unit. It must be connected with either rigid pipe, copper tube or an approved flexible metal connector (I will need at least a 3 foot length).

The gas supply must be connected to the 3/8" flare fitting located under the right hand side of the control panel."

It mentions using a separate line that branches off (only if using a side burner...which I'm not) It mentions the propane cylinder must be in a separate ventilated enclosure (which I have done). While trying to find the braided hose online I saw both Low & High pressure hoses, so I called Napoleon with my model #.

I was told that I would need the High pressure hose, and that the grill required 11" water column. When I asked what PSI that would be, they told me to have the Gas Company or a licensed gas fitter install it & use a manometer. This is crazy! We don't have gas on our street, and I hate to pay to have someone come just to connect 2 ends of a hose. THANKS Dan!

Reply:

Thanks for the added detail Nicky.

11 inches WC is about 0.4 psi - very low. Using high pressure hose is always safe - it's simply more durable. That's a standard LP appliance pressure and you'll see it appearing in our article above. Nothing odd there. But you should understand that the grill company gets scared (we all do) when hearing questions from someone they don't know - they figure if you blow yourself up they don't want to be blamed.

What's critical, besides using safe plumbing as recommended by the manufacturer is having the right pressure delivered to the burners. If the grill does not contain its own pressure regulator that's why you'd need that equipment.

You can see the typical pressures at which LP gas is delivered (as a gas) to appliances as a function of temperature, in the table in the article above.

On the portable grills I've seen the LP tank connects to a single stage regulator that is in the appliance and that regulates gas flow to the proper pressure.

(Aug 20, 2014) Nicky said:
Thank you once again Dan! I definitely feel that the Company was making sure to cover their behinds. In their instructions they kept citing installation Codes for US & Canada. US : National Fuel Gas Code, ANSI Z223.1 and using a licensed installer.

The grill does not have it's own regulator, just simply a short braided hose hooked directly into the metal tube which delivers to each burner. It's honestly not much bigger than the old grill (on wheels) that I have. This new "grill-top" unit will be set into a block wall.

Not sure if this matters but it does have a separate rotisserie that we will plug in when needed. Also in addition to gas it has an infra-red rear burner. With all that being said, I'm still a bit confused. Am I correct in assuming that I certainly don't need a 0-30 PSI regulator for this grill? If it needs 11" WC which equals 0.4 PSI then shouldn't a 10 PSI regulator should do the trick?? I can't tell you how much I've appreciated you help!

Reply:

Yes Nicky. Since your grill has NO pressure regulator and as your manufacturer cited the typical 11" (slightly less than 0.4 psi) a 0-10 psi regulator will work, but still to be safe it needs to be properly adjusted to the right delivery pressure. Unless you purchase a reg already set to the desired pressure it will need adjustment. Since installation details might affect delivery pressure that may also by the mfg says bring in someone with the right tools.

(Aug 21, 2014) Anonymous said:
Ooooohh THANK YOU Soooo Much!!! Now I can at least order the part

Reply:

Nicky

Check our article on gas appliance regulators at

inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Gas_Regulators.php

I thought about this more last night and imagined that perhaps the reasons that the grill manufacturer doesn't provide a gas regulator with their appliance might be

- with conversion parts the same appliance may work with either LP or natural gas - requiring different gas orifices at burners, different adjustments, different regulators

- the company got burned by a prior mishap and is just scared, forcing more final responsibility for safety onto the customer and their installer

Question: Why can't I use an adjustable LP gas regulator (0-20PSI) on a natural gas space heater without changing out the burner orifice ports?

(Sept 24, 2014) Anonymous said:
Why can't I use an adjustable LP gas regulator (0-20PSI) on a natural gas space heater without changing out the burner orifice ports? Seems like reducing the pressure to the heater would be enough. tomhend1@gmail.com

Reply:

Anon,

The orifice size opening is equally important as is delivery pressure. Imagine a typical 5/8" diameter garden hose to which 40 psi of water is being delivered. Now reduce the hose opening diameter to 1/8" and recall from your own experience what happens to the water stream. The total flow rate in gallons per minute will be significantly reduced.

Question: trouble adjusting gas pressure

(Oct 10, 2014) scott said:
On a 100% safety valve for an LP furnace I can only adjust the water column pressure on the valve outlet to 6.25 wc

The inlet is adjusted to 12.5 wc. I checked the adjustment port spring for the outlet and it is a LP spring. I bottomed out the adjustment screw and it is still only 6.25 wc.
Is there any danger having only 6.25 wc at the outlet? The burners burn nice and I have not had any problems in the past.
Thank you

Question: hooking up a portable generator to natural gas

(Dec 28, 2014) James said:
I would like to connect a portable generator to natural gas. What size hose would I need to connect to it? The house is about 75 feet from where the generator will be used. Is it ok to use a hose that long? What size hose would I need? It is only a 6,000 watt generator.

Question:

(Dec 31, 2014) Anonymous said:
WHAT DOES 14" WC MEAN

Reply:

fourteen inches of water column - this is one of a variety of ways to express pressure as you'll see discussed in the faqs above.

Question: best tubing diameter for LP gas fire log set

(Jan 1, 2015) scott said:
I currently am using 1/4 copper tubing for y propane log set and the flames are at a decent height, however will increasing my tubing to 3/8 produce more/higher fames?
Thank you

Reply:

Scott

1/4" is pretty small - the impact, though, depends in part on the length of the tubing run and the pressure-drop at the equipment. If you are not able to deliver gas fast enough then yes increasing the diameter would help. I would start by checkng the installation manual for the propane gas-log set to see what the manufacturer recommended in the first place.

(Jan 2, 2015) Scott said:
Thank you DanJoe
my run is about 10 to 12 feet.it is recommended @ 3/8 tubing but I do not want to remove 1/4 inch if 3/8;wont increase the flames. My reluctancy is due to having to run the tubing through my wall up 8 feet and then to the outside. If 3/8 improves the flame than it would be worth the effort

Reply:

Hey Scott

Watch out: his does not sound right. I don't know where you live, but in most countries and jurisdictions it is not permitted to route flexible copper gas tubing within building walls. Rather you must use iron piping in those locations. The concern is the possibility of puncture or other leaks in the wall cavity. And yes increasing pipe diameter will improve gas flow rate enough to be worth doing in any case.

(Jan 2, 2015) scott said:
Sounds like I should hire a plummer!?
Thank you again This is very helpful
whether i continue w flexcopper or use iron piping i intend to increase the diameter

Reply:

(Jan 2, 2015) (mod) said:
Sorry Scott, I know it's a small job - but gas piping really should be done correctly for safety reasons. Recently during a building addition we had simply to run a gas line across a 7 foot ceiling and down a 7 foot wall to a clothes dryer. That required opening the ceiling and wall enough to route black iron piping as needed; we used a sealant rated for gas piping, and after all of the lines were in place and tight we turned on the gas and tested every joint for leaks. It gave some peace of mind that was worthwhile before closing up the wall and ceiling with drywall and insulation.

In most jurisdictions you can use flexible copper for exposed gas piping but even just passing through a wall it needs to be iron pipe.

Question: the height that a piped LPG gas system can extend vertically up a building before atmospheric pressure (gravity) kicks in and stops the gas flowing

14 January 2015 Charlie said:
Hello all,

My question is specific to the height that a piped LPG gas system can extend vertically up a building before atmospheric pressure (gravity) kicks in and stops the gas flowing.

My understanding is that the regulator is normally set at 0.4psi at the storage tank. How high (within pipe work) would the gas effectively extend up a building being that LPG is denser then air, will the gas still come out of the pipe in a tall (very tall) building??

Reply:

The calculations you need, using water as an example, are found at

inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Pressure_Measure.php

WATER PRESSURE MEASUREMENT

Question:

(Jan 16, 2015) paul said:
I have 10% left in 500gal tank and furnace quit.is lp two low 4 furnace to operate??Furnace code # 3 witch is pressure switch stuck open.

Reply:

Paul,

I'm guessing you're talking about an LP gas tank since your comment is on a gas pressures information page.

Indeed in very cold weather low quantity in a tank could leave you low or out of fuel; also It's possible that the gauge is inoperative.

The meaning of "Furnace Code 3" is not something I can translate without knowing the brand and model of the heating system and its controls, but if you have the owner/installation/maintenance manual for your heater you should find the code there. If you don't have that document give us the brand, model, serial number of your heater and we'll help look for it.

Question: how to convert an appliance gas regulator between LPG and natural gas

(May 12, 2015) steve said:
Hi, have a question, I have a 100 gallon LP tank, I have an old Johnson model 120 furnace for blacksmithing, Jall this inside my shop, the johnson furnace has a factory requlator set up for propane, at 11 WC, which is standard. I want to run a line from my tank to the furnace set up, Reading your site, I believe I need another regulator at the tank, to reduce the tank pressure to around lets say 2 psi, to the furnace and then the furnace regulater will reduce it to 11 WC is that correct,

In other words I cant just run a line straight from the tank at tank pressure lets say 150 psi to the furnace and my furnace regulator will the adjust it to 11 wc ? If I can just use one regulator that the furnace came with, where do I find a flexible supply line to run from tank to furnace, most are made to run after it comes out of the regulator at low pressure and then connect to the appliance, please respond to my email mathrocks4@hotmail.com thanks Steve

Reply:

Steve in the More Reading links above try the

ARTICLE INDEX to GAS APPLIANCES, PIPING, CONTROLS

link and you'll find detailed articles about choosing or converting LP gas regulators, pressure requirements, 2-stage pressure regulation, etc. Please let me know if anything you read there seems incomplete or unclear.

Question: What is the standard pressure for natural gas coming from the meter ?

Natural gas meter indoors (C) Daniel Friedman(June 13, 2015) Anonymous said:
What is the standard pressure for natural gas coming from the meter ?

Reply:

Anon: we have added details in the article GAS PRESSURES LP vs NATURAL GAS where natural gas pressures are described.

Natural gas pressures in the building gas piping between the gas meter and the appliance regulator is typically about 7.5 to 8" wc (about 0.27-0.29 psi) and needs to be at least 0.25 psi to meet the appliance regulator's output requirements.

Question: safety of gas burning appliances sold in the U.S. but made elsewhere?

(July 2, 2015) Keda said:
Do you think if a product of non US origin have this statement would be okay to use in the US:

Our gas equipment for LPG is designed to fit 2.8kPa gas pressure with the connection by 9.5mm rubber hose.

Reply:

Not necessarily, Keda. I would look for listing / label / approval certification by a U.S. agency such as UL. And be sure that the proper regulator is installed.

Question: does my gas grill or patio heater need its own regulator?

(Aug 7, 2015) Ken said:
My new apartment has an on-demand LP water heater with a typical regulator. The gas line is T'd to the patio for an LP gas grill or patio heater. Does the grill or heater require a second regulator? kmarch10@gmail.com Thanks!

Reply: yes

Ken,

Typically each appliance has its own final stage regulator at or in the appliance itself. So there will be a first stage regulator at your LP tank and an appliance regulator at the water heater and another at the gas grille or heater.

Question: Convert an old LG LNG gas range to run on LPG service? Flame looks too strong.

(Aug 10, 2015) Jay said:

Thanks for all the great answers and an informative article as well. I bought a used LG LNG gas range for use at home but we only have LPG service here in the countryside. I have connected the LPG gas to it and it works alright but of course the pressure of the LPG gas coming out has made the flame too strong and unstable for cooking on.

Contacting the after-service center for LG, I was told to replace the stove because it's an old model and they do not have stock of the part (regulator) required to turn the LPG gas pressure down to usable levels for the LNG range. I'm sure it's just a matter of finding a proper regulator, no? Any ideas on what the ratio should be to turn down the LPG to? There is a regulator on the LPG tank at present.

Could it be adjusted down more or should another regulator be added to the range? Any help would be greatly appreciated. pursuntrade at gmail.com

Reply:

Jay

NEVER connect the wrong type of gas supply to a gas appliance. The result is unsafe and risks fire or explosion besides the problem of improper flame and improper operation.

If you can find the gas pressure regulator specifications for the stove that you have bought it might be possible to purchase a generic gas regulator that can be set to the pressure and fuel type that your stove requires. If the stove manufacturer does not agree that such an approach is safe then you should follow their advice since the potential injury or death from a gas explosion or fire is something to take seriously.

Question: gas pipe sizing charts

(Aug 11, 2015) Matt said:
When sizing gas pipe using standard charts (found in National fuel gas code) and slide rules how do you know what the pressure drop is. I worked in one part of the country before (North) and am now down South. Up North we would use the chart with .5 psi pressure with a .5 in. w.c pressure drop. Never had a problem.

Down South where I am now no one seems to want to give me an answer art to the pressure drop. Figuring the pressure of the gas is not a problem it is just that pressure drop that has me stumped. Is there any simple way without extensive measurements and calculations. Thank You

Reply:

[need citation from a Southern gas supplier]

Question: condensate drip tray leaks into gas furnace

(Aug 26, 2015) Anonymous said:
Seven years old plastic drain pan for A-coil in plenum of a gas furnace was deformed and caused water to drip to the furnace. When the heating system is on during winter, the heat caused the pan slowly deformed and it cannot hold anymotre water and spills water over the furnace during summer time. Is there a way to prevent the drain pan from damage?

Reply:

Anon this sounds unsafe: I worry that there is heat where there should not be, or that the wrong drip pan was installed.

If there are no furnace heat leaks or other safety issues then I'd replace the plastic pan with a sheet metal one.

Question: new high-end gas grill is too hot

(Sept 9, 2015) Will said:
Have a new higher end grill. Temp cannot go below 420 F. High is about 620. So , tough to do ribs ,,etc. Old natural gas grill had a nice range of 325-525 ( lid down ).
Dedicated gas line ( same as old grill) has PSI of 2. So -- why can't this grill go lower ? BTW - hundreds of recipes call for temps at low to mid range ( 300-375 , for instance ).
Thoughts ? Advice ?

Reply:

I'd like to know the brand and model and to see what the instruction book says; then we (you) could see what the manufacturer says. DO NOT modify the device: doing so is probably unsafe.

Question: How much pressure should be in a household gas line

(Sept 18, 2015) judy said:
How much pressure should be in a household gas line

Reply:

Please see GAS PRESSURES LP vs NATURAL GAS and let me know if questions remain.

Reader Question: what is the test pressure used when testing an LPG line?

2016/04/01 Anonymous said:
newly commissioned lpg line what is the required pressure to test the line

Reply: minimum 3 psi, or 1.5 x the gas system's design pressure (low pressure gas testing)

Anon:

Gas systems may be tested at low pressure for low pressure propane installations such as those found at a typical home using LPG. A different, high-pressure gas test procedure is also described.

NFPA 54 (2006), 8.2.3 states that "Immediately after the gas is turned on into a new system or into a system that has been initially restored after an interruption of service, the piping system shall be tested for leakage. If leakage is indicated, the gas supply shall be shut off until the necessary repairs have been made.

Low pressure gas leak tests of the gas piping

This test is performed with a pressure gauge installed on the "downstream" side of the final gas pressure regulator. It is testing the building's gas piping and gas appliances for leaks.

When pressure tests are performed on LPG piping, typically the system is sealed, a pressure gauge is installed, and the system is pressurized to 1 1/2 times the maximum design-operating pressure of the system OR a minimum of 3 psi. In some procedures the test period is brief: just 10 minutes for a residential building. But the pressure test interval is increased by 1/2 hour for every 500 feet of piping (that's more likely to occur in a commercial installation).

If the pressure drops during the test period then tools or solutions are used to find the point of gas leakage. Leak testing might be by soap type solution, use of a combustible gas analyzer, or other means.

If the calculated test pressure of 1.5 x the design pressure would exceed 125 psi, then the test pressure should not exceed an amount greater than 50 percent of the pipe strength.

In a low-pressure LP gas system test, the appliance shutoff valves are "ON" (presuming that the appliances are installed) in order to assure that the appliance automatic gas shutoff features are working properly.

High-pressure gas leak tests between the LPG container and the first stage regulator

High pressure tests are made using a 300 psi gauge installed between the gas container (LPG) and the first stage regulator. The gas valve is opened for three seconds and then closed tightly. The system is bled down by at least 10 psi and then tested for 3 minutes, watching for a pressure drop.

A separate test can check for leaks at the gas regulator itself: a 30 psi gauge is installed at the outlet of the first stage regulator. With the pressure gauge installed, the LPG tank's gas valve is opened for 2-3 seconds, just to pressurize the regulator and test gauge. The system is bled down by at least 5 psi and observed for 3 minutes to wat ch for a pressure drop.

Watch out: these general gas leak test descriptions are for illustrative purposes and are not technically complete, detailed, nor exhaustive. Check with the gas testing specifications required where the gas installation is to be tested, and check the gas testing recommendations of the equipment manufacturers.

Watch out: WVPGA (2011) notes that the gas pressure test medium should be air or an inert gas. Never use oxygen.

Question: Size of Gas Piping Required

2016/09/26 James w Howe Jr said:

I was taught to ALWAYS use copper flex with LP gas and black pipe with NG. I'm am NOT talking about pressure here! That stated, my supply is two 100 lb tanks with an "automatic switch over valve". The lines from the tanks to the valve are 1/8th inch. I need to feed a 30 inch 5 burner gas stove with a convection oven, a gas clothes dryer and a tankless 10L water heater that has a 1/2 inch gas inlet. Instead of running 1/2 inch copper flex with Ts to each appliance, do i need to increase the volume in the system to have enough gas to feed all three appliances. If I was using NG, i'd install at least a ten foot piece of 1 1/4 black pipe to build up the volume and then run 1/2 inch Ts with 1/2 inch pipe to the appliances. With LP I'd use 3/8 copper flex for the dryer and stove and the 1/2 inch called for for the water heater, BUT, I need to get enough volume first so how should I proceed? All of the answers on your site deal with pressure and THAT is not the issue here!

Forgot my contact info: jwhowejr@centurylink.net

Reply:

(mod) said:

Thanks for the comment and question, James. There's quite a list of types of piping material approved for use in gas piping systems; the distinctions I have seen are about the application - location such as above or below ground rather than the fuel difference between LP and NG.

Please see a detailed answer for your question at GAS PIPING SIZE & MATERIAL.

Watch out: Some jurisdictions such as New York City specifically prohibit use of some pipe materials such as cast iron, copper, brass, aluminum, and metallic tubing (with exceptions).

Watch out: There are life safety hazards involved when fooling with gas piping and appliances. Check with your local plumbing officials about what type of gas piping are permitted where you live, and while you’re at it, ask what gas piping or plumbing permits and safety and code compliance inspections are required where you live.

 

Article Series Contents

Natural Gas Appliance Operating Pressures in WC, millibars, Pascals, PSI or ounces of pressure

A common operating pressure for natural gas appliances is around 7 inches of water column (WC) or re-stating this in equivalent measure, that's 14.9 millibars or 1743 Pascals or Pa, or about 0.25 psi (pounds per square inch) or about 4 ounces of pressure per square inch.
See NATURAL GAS APPLIANCE PRESSURES for details.

LP or Propane Gas Appliance Operating Pressures in WC, millibars, Pascals, PSI or ounces of pressure

A common operating pressure for liquid petroleum or LP gas appliance is 10" - 11" of water column (WC) or re-stating this in equivalent measures, that's 27.4 millibars or 2491 - 2739 Pascals or Pa, or about 0.36 - 0.40 psi or about 5.78 to 6.36 ounces of pressure per square inch.
See LPG & PROPANE APPLIANCE PRESSURES for details.

...


Continue reading at GAS PRESSURES LP vs NATURAL GAS or select a topic from closely-related articles below, or see our complete INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES below.

Or see GAS REGULATORS for APPLIANCES

Or see GAS APPLIANCE CONVERT LP-NATURAL GAS

Or see GAS LAWS & CONSTANTS

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