Oil Burner Fuel Unit Diagnostic FAQsDiagnostic questions & answers for a heating or water heater oil burner fuel unit.
This article reports common questions & answers about the oil burner fuel unit or "oil pump" used on oil-fired heating equpment suchj as the oil burner for a heating boiler, furnace, or oil-fired water heater.
This article series explains the inspection, diagnosis, & repair of oil burners used in heating appliances such as hot water boilers, steam boilers, & water heaters.
We describe how to inspect, troubleshoot and repair heating systems to inform home owners, buyers, and home inspectors and students of heating service methods about common heating system defects.
The articles at this website describe how to recognize common oil-fired heating appliance operating or safety defects, and how to save money on home heating costs
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This article contains questions and answers regarding oil burner fuel units - these Q&A were posted originally
at OIL BURNER FUEL UNIT - be sure to review the advice given there.
Also see OIL BURNER WONT RUN for a flowchart of diagnostic steps for an oil burner that won't start or won't keep running: what to check in what order.
Below is our index to questions and answers about installing, adjusting or repairing oil burner fuel units (oil burner pumps).
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Tip: See our diagnosis and repair details at OIL BURNER FUEL UNIT AIR BLEED PROCEDURE
I have changed the filters and nozzle and blew the lines out but my Beckett furnace won't bleed could this be my oil pump? On 2017-11-25 by Rmryan
Reply by (mod) -
I don't know from just the information you've given but I suspect that your oil lines are filled with air. If bleeding the air doesn't fix the trouble check for a blocked oil filter ahead of the fuel unit or air leaks in the oil piping or no oil in the oil tank.
Also check for a clogged strainer inside the fuel unit.
If all of those fail, yeah it could be a bad fuel unit.
by Rmryan
Tried bleeding it 20 times still got nothing coming out. That's why I got the line blown out but still the same. What more information would you need?
Reply by (mod) -
If this is a two-line oil system in the pump should be self-priming and if it's not you are either out of oil or you have a bad pump or a closed valve or stuck check valve.
Or a bad air leak into the oil piping.
If this is a 1 line system if they take can feed by gravity to the fuel unit or oil pump then you should be able to open the air bleeder at the filter just before the fuel unit until well comes out at that point. I'm not on priming the pump would be easy.
If this is a one-line system and the pump has to lift out of the top of the oil tank then I suspect an air leak or a bad fuel unit.
But don't forget to also check first the coupling that's driving your fuel unit to make sure it's not slipping.
An on site experience service tech will always see things that you don't think to notice and mention that I don't think to askby Rmryan
Thanks that's all a huge help. If the new pump don't work I'll just call a tech. But definitely can be many different things!!
How many times can I prime my pump before I damage the pump?
And when fully opening the fuseable angle valve at the pump the top of threaded portion only goes to the top of the handle.
I can blow through and get air but is this allowing enough fuel through to the pump. On 2022-02-20 by Louise
by Inspectapedia Com Moderator (mod) -
@Louise,
The procedure you described will not prime your oil pump and in fact is likely to cause incorrect operation of the oil burner as well as risking getting toxic heating oil in your mouth.
That's not how air is bled from an oil heat fuel piping system.
It sounds like you need help from your heating service tech to bleed air from your oil lines. That's done with a fitting on the fuel unit itself.
If you're not trained to do that I don't recommend it because repeated attempts to start the oil burner without success can lead to a puffback explosion.
I have an old Beckett burner, have replaced everything except pump. It's a single line gravity fed.
Sometimes it will run fine for an entire day, week, even a month. Then it won't light. When I bleed it, I can see there is air in the fuel. Once I get a steady stream, close the bleeder, it light right up.
Then will work fine for a day to a month. I even replaced the line from the filter at the bottom of the tank, down into the basement to the burner itself. There are no leaks anywhere.? On 2020-11-01 by Greenday694
by danjoefriedman (mod) - air in the heating oil fuel lines
Green
Air in the fuel can of course come from a leak anywhere in the whole system, starting at the oil tank, piping, connections, filter, Fire-o-Matic valve, the fuel unit body (disassembled to clean that internal strainer, right?), particularly, that is, anywhere on the suction side of the system but even on the high pressure tubing to the burner too (less likely there)
You may not see the leak as it's mostly a suction leak; but a vacuum test on the fuel lines can indicate its presence.
My oil furnace will not stay ignited and running. It will fire up but will immediately trip the breaker due to lack of fuel.
I am able to manually prime the pump with oil, then reconnect all of the lines and fittings, start the furnace, and it will run for about one to two minutes before cutting out and tripping the saftey relay.
I have not discovered another way to start the furnace with some, although minimal, success.Is this a common symptom of a failing or falled pump? (Mar 24, 2013) Jason
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My single-stage oil furnace will start up but does not ignite and immediately trips the relay breaker as a consequence from the absence of fuel.
I am able to manually prime the pump with fuel by pouring a couple ounces directly into the pump and into the "inlet line", next reconnect the line and fitting, start the furnace, quickly bleed the line until I have a solid stream,
and the furnace will instantly ignite the fuel and run for about one to two minutes before tripping the breaker from the absence or lack of fuel being supplied. I have about 15-20 gallons of fuel in my tank. Is this a symptom of a failing or failed pump? (Mar 24, 2013) Jason
Reply: low oil in tank could be sending air into the oil burner fuel system - how to confirm fuel flow
Jason,
I'm not sure what's wrong - could be a bad electric motor or wiring short - that's the sort of thing that trips a circuit breaker.
If on the other hand you mean the primary control is tripping and shutting down the burner, say for lack of solid flame, it's doing what it's supposed to.
If you only have 15-20 gallons in an oil tank it's techically empty - and is either sending air or sludge over to the oil burner.
I start by confirming fuel flow to the nozzle by checking for oil flow first at the air bleeder at the fuel unit and then for oil flow at the outlet of the high pressure oil line connecting the fuel unit output to the oil burner nozzle line.
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Tip: See details at FUEL UNIT INSTALLATION & ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURES
Pumpa buner daya dorong nya kurang ke arah pembakaran lebih bayak ke arah pengembalian ,apakah yg harus saya setel di bagian pumpa itu? Mohon bantu an nya ya (Indonesian)
Re-posting via Translate
At my two-line oil piping at the fuel pump for the oil burner, the thrust is less in the direction of combustion (into the burner) and more in the direction of return.
What pressrue setting should I set on the pump? On 2019-09-28 by Bakri in Indonesia
Reply: standard oil pressure settings for your 2-line oil burner.
Bakri I don't have a clear understanding of the problem, but I am guessing you are saying that your oil burner fuel pump is not providing proper pressure and are asking what pressure to set.
The pressure settings are NOT determined by the fact that it's a 2-line oil delivery system, and it's normal for there to be a pressure difference between the lines depending on how much oil the oil burner is accepting as the pump runs.
Conventional oil burner fuel units or pumps have a pressure adjustment screw.
Standard from the factory is usually 100 psi but some oil burners include a label telling you what pressure should be used - it could be higher.Look at the oil burner itself: there is often a sticker on the burner that tells you what the fuel unit pressure setting should be.
Watch out: unless you have proper training to work on oil burners you probably cannot set the pump your self - trying to do so is unsafe.
Technical details of pump settings and adjustments are in these three key articles:
Translating into Indonesian:
Balasan:
Bakri Saya tidak memiliki pemahaman yang jelas tentang masalah ini, tetapi saya kira Anda mengatakan bahwa pompa bahan bakar pembakar minyak Anda tidak memberikan tekanan yang tepat dan menanyakan tekanan apa yang harus diatur.
Unit atau pompa bahan bakar burner minyak konvensional memiliki sekrup penyetel tekanan.
Standar dari pabrik biasanya 100 psi tetapi beberapa pembakar minyak menyertakan label yang memberi tahu Anda tekanan apa yang harus digunakan - bisa lebih tinggi.
Hati-hati: kecuali Anda memiliki pelatihan yang tepat untuk bekerja pada pembakar minyak, Anda mungkin tidak dapat mengatur pompa sendiri - mencoba melakukannya tidak aman.
Rincian teknis pengaturan dan penyesuaian pompa ada di
FUEL UNIT INSTALLATION & ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURES
I have a Suntec oil pump.A2va-7116. I was told when I bought it that it was preset at 140psi. It has steadily been increasing in psi.
I installed a gauge when I put the pump on last year. As of today the psi is up to 170.
Can someone tell me why and is that a concern - On 2022-02-16 by lee
by Inspectapedia Com Moderator (mod)-
@lee,
Sure. The pressure setting on a Sunstrand fuel unit is adjustable by a set-screw in a locking nut.
It's possible that those fittings are loose;
Ask your service tech to measure and set the output pressure to the correct level.
It's possible to add a pressure gauge + shut-off valve between gauge and oil line to permit frequent checking of oil pressure, but IMO the cost of adding that may approach that of replacing the fuel unit.
You've posted your question on the FAQs page for this topic.
Instructions for installing, adjusting, diagnosing heating oil pumps - fuel units - are provided in detail along with PDF downloads of instructions for specific models, found sdtarting at
OIL BURNER FUEL UNIT - home https://inspectapedia.com/heat/Oil_Burner_Pump.php
and at
OIL BURNER FUEL UNIT ANNUAL MAINTENANCE, SERVICE & REPAIR PROCEDURES
What will cause a suntec type ta burner pump to blow the 40 bar pressure gauge on it - May 22, 2015) paolo
Reply:
Paolo, there are several things that will blow the pressure gauge on a heating oil burner fuel system:
- Installing the gauge on the high pressure outlets side of the fuel unit, leaving it always exposed to pressure,
- surges in pump pressure, or
- blockage in the internal bypass or in the oil return line of a 2-line oil piping system.
- Or a damaged or defective gauge.
- Or something else we've not considered.
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Tip: See our diagnosis and repair advice at OIL LINE CLOGGING FIX
On 2020-11-18 by Joe
I have no fuel coming out of my pump going into burner. I can bleed it, and I get good oil flow. I tried a new pump it's a two pipe system. I put plug in by pass still the same.
On 2020-11-1 by danjoefriedman (mod) - oil burner pump not delivering fuel
Joe
Have you tried disconnecting the burner end of the high-pressure nozzle line to confirm that the pump is or is not actually delivering oil?I would start at the nozzle and check for a blockage, working backwards to the high pressure oil line connection at the fuel unit.
Often when servicing an oil burner with a fuel delivery problem I would simply disconnect the high pressure output line from the fuel unit at the port where it connects to the side of the oil burner nozzle tube, then turn on the oil burner to confirm that oil is coming out of that end of the high pressure line. - Daniel
Just installed a fuel pump (one line), and new nozzle. The problem is that now I'm not getting any fuel up to the nozzle !
Need some help! I have tried everything I can think of! (Nov 3, 2015) Bob Bell
Reply:
Bob you probably fixed this by now, but if not I would start by making sure that you have bled air from the system starting right at the oil filter.
Then you can confirm that the Fuel unit is delivering oil through the high pressure line that connects the Fuel unit to the burner.
If you have oil there than the problem may be our nozzle, nozzle adapter, or even (though less likely) the tubing between oil burner high pressure outlet and the nozle adapter.
Often I see a tech simply disconnect the high pressure line at the side of the oil burner nozzle assembly, directing it into a container.
Then she turns on the burner to watch to see that oil is flowing (it will be flowing at 100 psi or more) out of the nozzle line tubing
If no oil is emerging we start working backwards: confirming that there no clogged strainer in the fuel unit, and that oil is entering the fuel unit.
My Worcester boiler will run OK during the normal 2 mins off 5 mins on cycle, but sometimes when the burn is longer say 8 mins there is a variation of noise level and then the system locks out and the cut off light comes on.
After 2 mins and being reset it fires up again. Any ideas? On 2017-11-22 by ted
Reply by (mod) - signs of a fuel delivery problem?
Ted,
I don't know what's happening with that oil burner. It sounds as if perhaps something is overheating - possibly electric motor or there could be a coupling that heats up and slips between the motor and the fuel unit.But that's just speculation. We need an on-site service tech to watch the system.
The interval over which you describe the problem occurrence is so short that anyone surely will be willing to wait eight or ten minutes to observe the problem.
by Anonymous
Thanks for that, unfortunately it does not happen every time. The system may well runn for six hours without a problem and then after a longish burn trip.
Reply by (mod) -
Anon
I'd look for a problem with the temperature sensor for the boiler - such as bad thermal contact between the aquastat's temperature probe and the side or surface in the sensor well (may need to add thermal grease), and also for a loose wire.by Anonymous
Thanks again for your interest, time and effort, it is very kind of you. Turned on the boiler at 15.30 to-day after it ran successfully all day yesterday.
Just tripped again after 9 mins. 10 secs before the trip the burner note changed became less loud as if something switched off, after a few seconds a click and the noise reverted to previous level as if something was switched on but then after a few seconds the burner tripped.
I was able to press the reset button after a few minutes and the boiler then fired. Does this fit in with a temperature probe fault?
Reply by (mod) - burner gets "quiet" before shut-off suggests a fuel delivery problem
Possibly but so likely as an operating problem like a dirty nozzle, oil line air leak, oil line clog, fuel unit filter screen clog, or a combustion air problem that's causing the burner to trip off on safety reset.
The fact that the burner is getting quiet before the system trips off suggests to me a fuel delivery problem.
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I have pulled a vacuum on my incoming fuel line with no indication of leakage. Had also applied compressed air pressure to the line and no sigh of leakage, but when bleeding the fuel line it takes nearly a gallon of pumped fuel to allow the furnace to run. It will continue to run flawlessly.
Since the furnace in in an intermittently used garage, it is not powered up during times when garage is not in use.
When attempting to restart it after several days, it often does not fire up, or fires up and then drops out due to fuel pressure loss.
My question refers to whether or not it is possible for an internal problem with the pump a Suntec A2VA-7116?
I have been suspecting an incoming fuel line or filter leak, but believe I have eliminated those as a delivery problem through my pressure and vacuum tests. From the volume of air in the system, and not know the pump internal configuration I am at wits end on this thing. On 2020-03-01 by Jim
by (mod) - possible air leak at Sunstrand oil pump
Good questions, Jim.
There could be an air leak anywhere in the system including at the piping connections or at the Suntec fuel unit itself, such as at the removable cover that gives access to change out the fuel unit strainer. Start by tightening the four pump cover screws and checking / tightening any connections in the oil line.
Or have your service tech change out the strainer if it wasn't done at last service.
Unfortunately a homeowner cannot properly tune up an oil burner; special equipment, measurements, and training are needed. Doing it by eye doesn't work so well any more.
Also review the lift that the fuel unit has to achieve.
Also look in the oil filter canister for water, rust, or sludge that might tell us the line is getting blocked.
Oil furnace, down flow, got nice spark, new motor, pump, nozzle, filter, electrodes, transformer, controller, still won't fire up.
I set 125psi for pump, bled lines, 2 lines, still won't fire up.
Before all this was getting puff backs, got volger, any new suggestions? On 2020-01-23 by Mike G.
by (mod) - check for fuel oil flow
Sounds as if you're not getting fuel.
Check
- fuel in the tank
- fuel lines open
- oil filter
- strainer screen in fuel unit
and be prepared to replace both
then
- check the oil supply line vacuum level
by Mike G. - How can I tell if the seal is blown on my Suntec fuel unit?
How do u tell if the seal is blown on an Suntec 7116 pump? What r the tell tail signs
by (mod) - Signs of a blown oil pump (fuel unit) seal include:
Great question Mike:
Signs of a blown oil pump (fuel unit) seal:
At the pump cover (removed to replace the pump strainer)
1. By visual inspection you may see oil seepage around the seams of the Suntec pump cover. Wipe off the pump carefully and check again for oil leaks after it's been running.
2. By inspection or measurement of the oil burner flame, if the pump is drawing air then the flame will be improper, stumbling, rumbling
If the seal about which you ask is at the fuel unit's drive shaft you'll learn that by
3. remove the pump and see if the shaft will rotate freely if not the pump is seizing and probably it has a failed bearing and/or seal
4. when the pump is removed, inspect the shaft area for oil leaks; don't forget to inspect inside the burner's blower assembly through which the pump is driven by a coupling, as oil may collect on and even drip out of the burner bottom
Perhaps some heating techs will chime in with other signs of oil burner pump seal leak signs.
by Mike G
So I am assuming pump seal damage originates from a bad return line restriction ? On 2 line system, I just put a new one on there 3 days ago and have oil build up in bottom of blower intake already,, haven't pulled pump yet , how long are they warranted from factory u know, I'll run that thing back up to supply house if so
Reply by (mod) -
Not necessarily;
Dirt in the fuel unit, worn shaft bearing, improper re-assembly after changing the strainer; stripped threads at fittings.
Keep in mind that improper adjustment or leaks in the nozzle line piping anywhere on the outlet end of the fuel unit can also send oil into the blower baseby Mike - Can installing the wrong nozzle affect the pump on an oil furnace?
Can installing the wrong nozzle affect the pump on an oil furnace? Thank you.
Reply by (mod) -
Mike:
I don't think-so (I'll do some further research) as all you're doing is changing the flow-rate (GPH) and spray pattern - all residential nozzles will be in the range of the capacity of the fuel unit.
But there could be a more-subtle problem such as installing a nozzle well out of range of the fuel unit (oil pump) or such as damaging the nozzle adapter or tubing so as to cause an obstruction.
Perhaps you can be more specific about the damage or problem you're seeing with your fuel unit.
...
Tip: See our detailed explanation of the internal bypass plug changes for 1-line vs. 2 line oil burner fuel piping at INTERNAL FUEL UNIT BYPASS CONTROL
and if you're not sure which is which, see
I purchsed a miller mobile home oil funace (aprox 12 yrs old) with a dual line hook up,we capped of the return line for a single line useage, tuned it on for 20 sec. oil leak somwhere?, do i need to use a special plug or change something in the pump, thanks Bob (Apr 2, 2014)
Reply:
Anon,
Watch out: When converting from 2-line to 1-line oil piping the fuel unit internal bypass must be opened or you risk dangerous pump damage and leaks.
We describe 1-line vs 2-line oil piping hookups and the internal bypass plug
I have a new suntec a2va-7116. It was leaking a little and kept losing prime.
How do I adjust the bypass plug? On 2019-11-16 by LK
Reply by (mod) -
KJ
Using the on - page search box for
OIL PUMP BYPASS CONTROL
brings us INTERNAL FUEL UNIT BYPASS CONTROL
Please take a look at that information and don't hesitate to ask follow-up questions if any of that article is unclear.
If the bleeder has oil flow could the pump still be bad? 2019/11/08 Gregg Ford
Reply: Yes by gravity flow from the tank
Yes Gregg;
When you open the bleeder on the fuel unit you might simply be seeing oil flow by gravity from the oil tank - that'd be true particularly if the pump is not even running.
Also even if the pump is on and you get oil (and perhaps no air) at the bleeder fitting, we don't know what pressure the pump is delivering - unless you instrument the pump output pressure or the input oil line vacuum.
A21a 7116 oil burner: it only builds pressure if I crimp the return line - On 2019-07-04 by mike
by (mod) - signs of a clogged oil line or filter or failure to remove internal bypass plug
For a two line oil pump installation, did you remember to remove the internal bypass plug? If not, do that. If you did, then
Sounds like a clogged oil line, filter, or bad fuel unit itself.
...
Tip: see OIL BURNER FUEL UNIT ANNUAL MAINTENANCE, SERVICE & REPAIR PROCEDURES - including removal of the fuel unit end cap to clean or better, repalce the internal filter screen at annual maintenance.
And see OIL BURNER FUEL UNIT MANUALS & MAINTENANCE GUIDES - PDF downloads
What parts are in the fuel pump? (Aug 5, 2012) Anonymous
Photo: the author [DF] is disassembling a Beckett Cleancut A2EA-6528 fuel unit (oil burner pump) for inspection.
Watch out: we do not reommend that you try disassembling a fuel unit unless you are trained to do so. Making a mistake could result in a leak, loss of heat, or worse, a building fire, injuries, or worse.
Anon: if you check out some of our references/ citations you can dig into a fuel unit manual and see details, cross sectional drawings etc. There are plenty of parts inside.
Opening up the fuel unit side by removing the 4 bolts - a service tech job - reveals a replaceable filter screen that should be changed at annual service (though many techs ignore it). Incoming oil passes through the screen, through a pump, and at high pressure out to the oil burner.
A check valve stops oil flow when the motor stops spinning.
An internal bypass valve allows excess oil to circulate inside the pump or if that valve is closed in a 2-pipe system the excess oil flows back through the 2nd oil line to the oil tank.
The pump drive shaft is operated by a coupling that connects the pump through the oil burner blower assembly over to the electric motor that drives the whole assembly.
An eccentric gear operates the actual pump in the fuel unit, as shown in our photograph above.
Good reading - learned a lot! I need to replace the oil burner fuel unit on a Lennox OHP31C-7 burner.
Original appears to be a Sunstrand pump (from physical looks) but label is unreadable. Where would I find a cross reference to Suntec or something else suitable? (Mar 15, 2013) Tom
Reply:
Tom,
You want to replace the unit with another of the same brand and model type to be sure it'll work with your oil burner, though there may be some cross references between Sunstrand and Webster.
The critical features are the direction of rotation of the drive shaft for the fuel unit (LH rotation or RH rotation) and its capacity.
Try taking the old unit into your HVAC supplier who can probably match it with a replacement.
You could also simply take note of which way your oil burner drive motor shaft spins by watching briefly through the burner top - the shaft rotation direction is usually quoted when viewed from the connecting-end or exposed end of the drive shaft but as long as you can clearly state what you saw your supplier can be sure you're getting the correct-rotating replacement pump.
How do I get the end cap off pump, i have all 8 bolts removed (Jan 30, 2015) Anonymous
Reply:
Providing you've removed the connecting piping so that the cover is free to take off, tap it gently on one side. Be sure you've a catch-pan below as oil will spill out.
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We have an older Weil-Mclain 65 Series Oil boiler with a Weil-McLain burner Unit Model 45 CU-1 (obsolete). It has a 1725 RPM motor and not sure what make oil pump (unit). Lately, I have noticed that after running for awhile, it sounds as if the oil pump is making an intermittent bearing failure type noise.
I will replace the pump at the earliest opportunity (this is in my second home, a 3.0 hour drive).
My question is, can I install a 3450 RPM oil pump to run with a 1725 RPM motor, or MUST the two RPM's coincide. Thank you! (Feb 22, 2015) Konrad
Reply: bad idea
They need to coincide. If you are keeping the boiler but want to upgrade the burner assembly it may make more sense and be more economical to buy a complete assembly.
Even then there will be other details to get right: the gun and burner tube specs, the nozzle spray pattern has to match the combustion chamber design, &c.
...
I just bought a used oil furnace and tank to put in my garage. It is a single line beckett setup.
Hooked it up and temporarily put fuel line in a jug of diesel fuel about same height as pump and it works great.
Ran line thru wall out to tank which is 4 1/2 ft lower and added filter in line.
Put 5 gallons in tank and tried running furnace but it keeps pulling air bubbles in fuel when I bleed. Furnace will only run 10 seconds then shuts off due to air.
Tank too low? Not enough fuel in tank? Would 2 line system cure problem?
Thanks, Steve (Apr 13, 2015)
Reply:
Anon / Steve
Even a one stage single line J pump can lift the 4 1/2 feet you cite. I suspect that there is a leak in your piping. Leaks can be hard to find. Installing a vacuum gauge on the
Can an oil furnace pull oil from two floors below? On 2016-01-21 by Gary Jennings
by (mod) - No, The lift of oil burner fuel units is limited
Gary
The lift of oil burner fuel units is limited - you'll need a two-line oil piping sysetm. That may be enough, if not you'll add a lift pump.
...
Tip: See OIL TANK WATER CONTAMINATION - how to remove or prevent water contamination of fuel or heating oil.
Will water damage the pump Oil Burner Fuel Units or oil pumps? 2016/02/20 dean
Reply: possibly - Yes: risk of rust and corrosion and sludge
Water in the oil supply system, typically coming from the oil tank, will ultimately damage the fuel unit by causing rust or corrosion inside the pump motor.
That may not occur right away but may occur if water remains in the pump over time, such as when the system sits idle out of the heating season.
Search InspectApedia for OIL TANK WATER to see a series of articles on detecting and removing water in the oil fired heater system.
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