Questions & ansswers about how to inspect, diagnose & repair oil burners:
This series article answers commonly-asked questions about the inspection, troubleshooting & repair of oil burners such as those used on oil-fired heating boilers or furnaces.
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These oil burner inspection, troubleshooting & repair questions and answers posted recently at this diagnostic article: OIL BURNER INSPECTION & REPAIR - see the diagnostic procedures outlined there.
On 2015-10-19 by (mod) - opinion about trouble from oil burners
Re-posting a reader comment without its commercial link:
Eric Blaise said:
Most oil burners are quite efficient, and most of the problems they suffer are age related
If an oil burner is giving you trouble, that is, you have noticed some of the warning signs mentioned above, call in a technician as soon as possible in order to find out if the system is repairable, or would need to be replaced. Generally, if it is a persistent issue that has come up time and time again, then it is best to have it remedied once and for all.
Reply:
Thanks for the comment, Eric. In my opinion most oil burner problems stem less from age than from lack of maintenance. Oil fired heating equipment really needs annual cleaning and adjustment for reliable, economical operation.
On 2015-10-16 by (mod) - oil burner pump keeps locking up
Look for a failing fan bearing or fuel unit bearing in the oil burner; that is the problem can be the fuel unit or even fuel and filtering though the latter two are less likely.On 2015-10-16 by Heather
My burner keeps locking up pumps and we can't figure out why, please any ideas.every part on it has been friggin replaced yet the pumps keep freezing up and me with no working burner ughOn 2015-10-04 by Elyse
Turned on the furnace for the first time this year (had water valve shut off to it for the year- turned it back on) furnace overflowed with water and filled 2 radiators;leaking everywhere. Still wouldn't click on; could we had a bad feeder valve? Have we destroyed our furnace by having it filled with so much water?On 2015-09-17 18:19:03.664675 by john
Oil is dripping out of I believe is a pump or motorOn 2015-09-12 by (mod) - use flue gas spill switches on oil fired heating equipment?
Good question;
The spill switches discussed at the article series beginning
at FLUE GAS SPILL SWITCH TRIPPING & RESET
are indeed focused on gas fired equipment, probably because of the carbon monoxide CO hazard.
But the answer to your question part1 is absolutely yes, there are flue gas spillage switches designed for the (usually higher) temperature range produced by oil fired heating equipment and that can be mounted at a barometric damper on an oil fired heating flue.
Field Controls, for example, offers such devices. The term usually used is "thermal switch" or "thermal switches for oil fired heating equipment".
These flue gas spillage devices sense heat, must be selected for the proper fuel and application (or else your system would be unsafe as it'd not be properly protected), and are sold in both manual reset and automatic reset spill switch sensor switch forms.
Flue gas spillage or thermal switches also vary by their response time. You may have trouble with a too-fast-acting switch if in normal operation there is a brief burst of heat from a barometric damper - as happens on some oil fired heating equipment.
Field Controls Thermal switch models include FTS-4, FTS-6, GSK250-M (for steam boilers), GSJ0160-M for draft-induced furnaces, and about eight other models. You'll see that it is essential to choose the proper thermals sensor switch.
Contact Field Controls at Field Controls
2630 Airport Road
Kinston, NC 28504
Phone: 252.522.3031
Fax: 252.522.0214
sales@fieldcontrols.com
Website: fieldcontrols.com
On 2015-09-11 by shell@scrantonlink.com
can and or should spill switches be installed on a oil fired furnace barometirc damper?On 2015-09-06 by Anonymous
The oil burner is a beckett afg burner about 25 years old. It is noisey when running.On 2015-09-06 by Anonymous
Oil burner while running is noisey. What can be causing it?On 2015-07-26 by Bob bellew
We have a trianco Eurostar boiler heating of radiators fine but no hot water we have just had a new pump and new danfoss fp712 time clock after an electrical surge from central electricity power company last week can you advise pleaseMy oil burner will come on for a few seconds and then shut down. I have changed the control, and the cad cell. If I disconnect the cad cell start the burner and allow it to run for about 10 or 15 seconds and reconnect the cad cell it will usually continue running until the water is hot. Sometimes the burner will operate normally for a period of time.
If it sets overnight when heat is called for it will shut down after it starts as if it has no flame. I know the fire is there because I can hear it burning. If I connect my multi-meter to the cad cell the resistance goes from very high to about 400-500 ohms.
The only thing I haven't done is check the cut-off solenoid because I don't know how. Thank you for any help you can give me. - R.M. 2/25/2014
A competent onsite inspection by an expert usually finds additional clues that would permit a more accurate, complete, and authoritative answer than we can give by email alone. You will find additional depth and detail in articles at our website.
That said, try this diagnostic routine to see if that helps. OIL BURNER WONT RUN - Diagnostic Steps - what to check in what order
(Oct 16, 2012) tim said:
how do i locate the nozzles and ingnitor on a beckett unit
heater wont fire went down the checklist everything ok
removed a lot off soot from inside eater. replaced thickly oiled filter
also the thermostat goes directly into the interrupted ignition oil control .
Since the red button is out and wont reset (it is blinking green every 1/2 second.) how do i check the thromostat?
(Oct 24, 2012) John said:
please give me some advice regarding basic operation of VJP-140 gun type Volcano steam boilers. basic firing procedures, maintenance..thank you so much..please email me john_qute@yahoo.com
(Nov 7, 2012) Ken & Eliz said:
I have been told that there is a pinhole in my rear breech of my riello furnance and that this means my furnace is condemned and needs to be replaced ASAP. The rest of the furnace is in really good condition and we suspect that poor yearly cleanings (cleanings were only 1 hr for a 3-4 hr job) was the culprit.
Can the breech be repaired? Is this a reason for immediate replacement? Are there licensed companies that do this type of repair? Thanks!
Ken & Eliz
I'm afraid to second-guess an onsite service expert where heating equipment safety is involved, but I can offer a few thoughts:
1. Repairability depends on a few things like: what is the nature of the hole and what caused it - for example a pinhole caused by corrosion is often the tip of an iceberg so to speak - and actually a much larger defect is looming, whereas a manufacturing defect may be covered under warranty and/or very small and possibly repairable.
2. in my experience, while it is technically possible to weld a small hole in perforated sheet metal, an issue is that NOBODY will sign off warranting the safety of the result - even if in their secret heart of hearts they think it's fine, no one wants the risk; and of course a technical expert might argue at a later failure that the heat stress of welding contributed to a future failure, hazard or event
If you are not convinced (by say having the service tech or manager show you and explain to you the problem) I would
- ask to see the exact location and nature of the hole, and ask an opinion about its cause and about the risk of similar defects not so easily found
- if what's there is a true pinhole (1/8" diameter or less) and you want to even consider some sort of repair, contact Riello directly, ask to speak with a technical service rep, ask for and then follow their advice.
Reader followup: (Nov 7, 2012) Ken & Eliz said:
DanJoeFriedman -- thank you very, very much for the info.
I beleive the pinhole is the result of corrosion. I also believe that I will have to replace the furnace over the next couple of months. Do you know if it is a risk (health wise) to take the time to find the proper replacement rather than doing an emergency install?
Also, one of the technicians suggested 'glueing' on the same material that is used for the gaskets as an interim solutions while I look for another furnace - do you think this is a viable option?
Reply: OK Ken & E:
watch out that corrosion means welding is not just a pinhole problem.
It's worth trying a patch by your service tech.
BUT WATCH OUT
be sure your smoke and CO detectors are working and installed in the right location
(Nov 8, 2012) levi said:
why is there oil coming out the bottom of the oil burner
Levi,
If oil drips out of the rear of your oil burner most likelynthe fuel unit is not shutting off cleanly, letting unburned oil drip at the nozzle. An oil line leak can also be at fault. Both of these are operating problems that can lead to loss of heat or to an ugly oil burner puffback. It's time for a service call.
Drainage from the oil burner bottom weep opening may indicate a failing transformer or a leak the nozzle adapter, tube, or a dirty nozzle
(Nov 8, 2012) Art said:
Oil furnace trips out When reset it will run for about 10+ min. then it trips out again, little or no heat enters home.Also dark gray/black smoke comes from chimney,Also the metal exhaust from furmace is barely warm. I need help.it's getting cold Thanks.
Art, there could be any of several problems but at the least it sounds as if your system needs a thorough cleaning, oil noaale and filter and fuel unit changeout, and tuneup.
(Nov 9, 2012) Paul said:
greetings,
I came home from work yesterday and discovered my Beckett AFG blower motor running with the burner not firing. I had to manually shut the system down. Primary did not trip. Turned power back on and the electric motor fired right up again and still no fire up or safety trip - killed power to the unit to stop. Is my primary bad?
Paul
DO NOT fire the oil burner before an expert replaces a bad primary control or finds and fixes a shorted wire or wiring error and
Also
Inspects and perhaps cleans out excess oil pumped into the combustion chamber.
Otherwise there risk of a fire or puffback explosion on first ignition.
(Nov 10, 2012) Paul said:
DanJoeFriedman-thank you for your reply. Iv'e been troubleshooting this blower ever since, perhaps you can advise? I opened the door to the combustion chamber and cleaned up the excess fuel oil, changed the filter, strainer, and nozzle.
I also checked the spark on the transformer with a screwdriver and I have a strong steady spark. I didn't disturb any of the settings as the boiler was running fine previously.
I don't understand why the blower won't fire up - power seems to be getting to the transformer from the primary.
Beckett AFG, Honeywell R4184D 1027 primary.
Thank you
(Nov 10, 2012) Paul said:
Problem solved - I just replaced the primary control, now my boiler is running as smooth as ever!
Thanks!
Paul,
Thanks so much for the feedback and repair results. This sequence will surely help others.
(Nov 20, 2012) patrick rigaud61@yahoo.com said:
i have a beckett furnance its about 10 years old, for the past 2 summers the heat turn on in the summer time,
the only way to start the heat is through the emergency control. thermostat has been change and it still will not fired with the emergency switch to control on and off. what is the problem please reply.
Patrick
Try going through the
Oil burner wont run, diagnostic steps
Just above in this article. I'm so sorry but your question just doesn't give me a better suggestion to go on
(Nov 26, 2012) Dave said:
Oil burner does not what to fire up
Start by checking for power
Detailed diagnostic steps are at OIL BURNER WONT RUN
(Nov 26, 2012) Anonymous said:
just changed oil tank put 75.00 of oil in tank , turned on valve at tank , turned on shut-off switch and it won't start light for reset is flashing held it in for 5 seconds still nothing
(Dec 1, 2012) bruce said:
oil burner with water heater is using more water than normal, adding water daily, do have more people using hot water than in the past. Do not see any leaks from radiators...this is a steam boiler
(Dec 6, 2012) winfield said:
On Wayne EH Oil Burners they have two blower wheels that will fit, 6.25" amd 5.25"
I am wondering what determines wich one to use, is it the firing rate?(GPH)
(Dec 7, 2012) bob windsor said:
Burner does not always come on when thermostat calls for heat. There is adequate fuel supply. All wires check out and are secure. Eye is clear. Every time button is pushed burner comes on and it recycles properly. Problem is intermittent and sporatic.
Detailed diagnostic steps for an oil burner that won't start or won't keep running begin at OIL BURNER WONT RUN
Bob Windsor:
About diagnosing an oil burner that intermittenly won't "come on" - we need to distinguish between motor runs but we don't get oil ignition - and the burner goes off on reset, or the motor doesn't run at all.
The former means there is an ignition problem, perhaps a clogged nozzle or oil filter or a failing ignition transformer etc.
The latter is a thermostat or electrical problem.
Bruce,
About an increase in water consumption by a steam boiler
Steam boilers consume water normally.
If the water consumption has markedly increased FOR THE SAME AMOUNT OF RUN TIME (as opposed to running more in colder weather, for example) then I'd look for a condensate return pipe leak or a steam vent that is not closin gwhen it should.
Winfield, the size of the oil burner blower wheel is usually matched to the GPH firing range of the burner assembly. If you are replacing one use the same size as what you are replacing.
(Dec 7, 2012) winfield said:
The problem is the wheel was missing, so I would like to know wich one is correct for certain GPH firing ranges.
Thanks
Reply:
Thanks for the clarification.
Try measuring the space into which the blower fan will fit. It may be that only the smaller would fit, closing the question.
Or note the oil burner brand and model, and note either the actual nozzle size in GPH, or the firing range in GPH noted on the boiler data tag. With that info we can check with the manufacturer.
(Jan 4, 2013) Scott said:
Have an issue where my Beckett oil furnace will lock out.
Hit the reset on primary controller and it fires right up. Sometimes it will run a while, others it will lock out again in a couple of minutes. Cleaned the CAD cell (though it didnt appear to need it) and still intermittently tripping the reset. Plenty of fuel and definitely getting electricity. Any suggestions?
(Jan 11, 2013) jose netto said:
my heat oil is not fired up some does but when i close the door is not work again why? what i have to do?
(Feb 18, 2013) Anonymous said:
my boiler takes to long to cut in even when its very cold outside,what should i check? and do you know of a good oil burner school in (Westchester NY or close to zip 10553
(Jan 31, 2014) Dennis said:
My Beckett AFG is sluggish when it is turning on but kick on fine and throws good heat. Any first step procedures? Thanks in advance.
Dennis,
Sluggish start up sounds like the oil burner needs cleaning and adjustment.
I would schedule a heating service call now - before the problem leads to loss of heat.
Service steps include standard items like oil change, screen change, nozzle change, cleaning and adjustment of the nozzle assembly - if those standard procedures don't fix the problem we'd dig deeper, checking pump pressure, bearings, shaft couplings &c.
(Feb 1, 2014) Dennis said:
Hey Dan,
First time I tackled the fuel side of the furnace and replaced the nozzle and did some basic cleaning and all seems well. I also changed the filter which I failed to do last year.
Reply:
Excellent. Sounds as if the start-up problem on the oil burner was a typical response to needing a cleaning. Nice going.
(Feb 20, 2014) Dan said:
The only way my Williamson oil burner will ignite is by "jump starting" the thermostat wires on the Honeywell R8184G4009 box. When I want to shut the oil burner off all I have to do is remove the "jump start" wire.
I just now replaced the upstairs wall mounted thermostat control. After I had the new wall mounted thermostat box wired and set up I turned the breaker box switch back on for the furnace. The oil burner did its usual start up but did not ignite.
The red light came back on and the reset button popped back up on the Honeywell R8184G4009 box. I'm thinking about "jump starting" the furnace again and let it run for a couple of hours tonight. The oil burner is an older Williamson from the 1980's, prior to their bankruptcy I think. Do I need a new Honeywell R8184G4009 box?
Dan I understand your reasoning, but don't recommend forcing the system to run.
When the oil burner has shut down on "safety" and the reset button pops up on the primary control, it's ok to push that reset button ONCE to see if the system will start and keep running - that will let you have heat while you wait for the service technician to show up.
But do not keep resetting and running the system - doing so is unsafe and risks a puffback.
And do not assume that the problem is the control aquastat - the R8184G. It could be simply that the oil burner needs cleaning. Or there could be another service problem = even a clogged filter.
(Feb 21, 2014) Dan said:
Hey Dan,
I understand about the risks pushing that reset button more than once and how it will fill the chamber with fuel if it fails to ignite. I also understand the risks of "jump starting" or forcing the system to run, it was a last resort option to get some heat in the house.
Anyways just today my brother and I bought and installed a new Honeywell R8184G4009 box, so along with the new wall mounted thermostat control the system is working again. My brother also regapped the electrodes on the gun assembly to some measurements we found online. The gun assembly needs new electrodes, sounds like a to do project when the weather gets warmer.
I forgot to mention that a service tech did come out last month and replaced the nozzle on the gun assembly. Just the other day another guy came out and cleaned the fuel lines to and from the fuel pump. He also tested the photo lens/cad cell light sensor (you know what I'm referring to) and it is working properly.
This colder than normal winter forced me to learn alot about oil burners in the past month. I also found a sticker on the furnace with a written service log on it from the local heating company who installed the furnace back in 1988. I will be making my own maintainence log mounted on a clipboard to place by the furnace. Thanks for taking the time respond to my comment~Dan
Reply:
Thanks for the feedback Dan. It will surely assist other readers.
Sorry I couldn't be smarter with the text exchange; the on-site person is always the most critical eye.
If you have time it would be useful to hear what you think was wrong with the primary control that you replaced, and more, if you kept the old box, it might be instructive to take a close look at it - nothing technical, just a look-see for obvious damage like burning marks indicating overheating of a relay or circuit board or wire contact.
(Mar 5, 2014) Correct Electrode and spray nozzle? Marco said:
Hi Dan,
I have an approximately 30 year old RUUD oil fired furnace (mod. # UOBC-112QAGA) with a Beckett AFG burner unit.
The problem I have is that for years I don't get a clean burn (appears to run rich with lots of build up on the spray nozzle until it clogs.)
The system is clean w/ new filter and all debris cleaned form heat baffles, flue and chimney.
Today I went to the supply store to purchase some spray nozzles (.75 80 A) as another clogged over night.
The clerk asked the same question he always asks "Are you sure it's the correct nozzle" and my reply was my standard "its the same nozzle that was in there when I started servicing it myself 5 years ago"
but this time it got me to thinking, I started servicing it myself because I was unhappy with the work and lack of expertise and professionalism of the techs the service company was sending out. On the last call they did for me 5 years ago the tech replaced the electrodes.
At that time I remember asking why the electrodes appeared to be different than the one removed and he stated it was a newer version.
I have never made adjustments to the fuel flow (with the exception of replacing filters, air supply or anything else I think would change the flame. I did recently have the ignition transformer replaced as it appeared to be weak.
My question: how do I know I have the right Electrode and/or Nozzle?
Thanks,
Marco
Correct,
The oil burner instruction booklet or the manufacturer will tell you what electrodes are standard. These are field replaceable parts but they do vary in length, diameter, and angle bend.mand of course you want the gap correct. Also, The transformer could be bad, or system could be not adjusted properly, or combustion air inadequate, etc.
E.g. Backpressure can overheat and destroy even a new transformer.
(July 5, 2014) Dave said:
My Wayne Msr Oil burner. Starts with a strong flame runs sometimes 20 seconds sometimes a minute or two then it sputters and the flame cuts in and out and then it shuts down. Sometimes with out touching anything the oil burner will start back up with a strong flame and run until it sputters and dies again?
Check for a clogged oil line or filter
Heating Oil said:
It’s a good blog about Oil burners and their repairs but I was looking for a mechanic for my machine of heating Oil in Northern Ireland.
Heating:
Here are some excellent sources for heating & chimney service and repair experts in Northern Ireland
Northern Ireland Association of Chimney Sweeps, NIACS, www.niacs.co.uk
Northern Ireland Warm Homes Scheme, www.nihe.gov.uk/index/benefits/grant_assistance.htm The Warm Homes Scheme provides a free service to all applicants to ensure that you are receiving all the benefits that you are entitled to. NOTICE: As the Scheme is due to end on 31 March 2015, it is important that you apply as soon as possible to check if you are eligible
SNIPF: Scottish and Northern Ireland Plumbing Employers Federation http://www.snipef.org/
(Oct 21, 2014) Will said:
I have a 20 year old Utica Oil Burner w/ a tankless coil and up until last Sunday it was running fine. Every October when the temperature outside drops I drain out all the water that's inside the system so the baseboard heaters don't clank when I put on the heat. Normally it's about 16 to 20 gallons or so.
After draining it, I cranked the heat up just to see if every room was heating up & it worked fine. Yesterday my wife calls me to tell me that the heater in our bedroom was leaking water.
When I went home I noticed that the water that I drained out filled right back up again within a day. I drained it again and this time it was even more water & the burner would start until at least 15 gallons were drained.
I drained it to an even lower level than Sunday night & when I turned on the burner this morning it wouldn't fire up.
I checked the water level & it filled back up again! Is it possible that there's a leak inside where the coils are? I can't seem to figure it out & I'm dumping a lot of water every day.
Will I'm confused. It is not normal nor normally necessary, nor recommended, to regularly drain water out of a hot water heating system, nor is that the best way to avoid "clanking noises" that are attributed usually thermal expansion.
Hot water heat systems use an automatic water feeder to keep proper water pressure in the system.
Yes a leak in a tankless coil can add water to a boiler as house water pressure (inside the tankless coil) is typically higher than boiler cold pressure (12 psi)
You would indeed need to regularly flush the low water cutoff (and water feeder) on a steam boiler or on some hydronic boilers that have added this safety control.
(Oct 22, 2014) Will said:
Hey the company that I get the fuel from has a person that comes out & does a maintenance for the burner when I need it & he told me that I need to flush the float chamber monthly & if I can't see the float line then it has to drain until I can otherwise the pipes or the heaters start clanking.
Not making this up. I was also told that the Low Water Level Control may be faulty, that's why there's a lot of water in the system. I may need to trouble shoot that along with the coil. Anyway, what is the best way to check if there's a leak in the coil or if the Low Water Control is bad? By the way, thank you for your input.
(Nov 3, 2014) Anonymous said:
This is Will again (the guy w/ the Utica Oil burner) and since the last time I commented in this forum I have changed the Low Water Level Control, replaced the shutoff valve under the low water control, replaced the Beckett burner motor (found a nice one on ebay for $200.00), replaced the oil filter and replaced the old wiring to all controls, thermostats and the power into the burner motor.
It lights up like new, everything works great but I'm still having the issue of the system filling up w/ water.
Even when I shut off the main there is water still coming out from the new shutoff valve under the LWL Control. Not a lot but it's still trickling through. Any suggestions? Should I just call a plumber in at this point? Thanks for any suggestions you may have.
(Nov 27, 2014) Alex M said:
My Becket oil burner in a 2-zone forced hot water heating system works great, but I see evidence of leakage around the end of the boiler tank. Can I replace the boiler and use the existing Becket burner?
Alex,
Maybe and maybe not.
Certainly we have installed used but good-condition burner assemblies on other boilers in some circumtances.
Oil burners are matched to the boiler with respect to burner tube, diameter, nozzle size range, and a few other parameters
. It may be possible to modify the existing burner to meet the manufacturer's specs for the new boiler, but if you have to hire someone to do that job I'm not sure that there's much savings over accepting the burner already matched-to the new boiler. It's a fair question to ask.
Take your existing burner's model and measurements to the manufacturer of the boiler you want to buy to get their guidance.
Nov 29, 2014) Stan G said:
Aside from Nozzle and Fuel Tank Oil Filter, are there any other common parts replaced at a normal oil burner service tune up
I am struggling to understand a $54 parts cost for Water Heater Oil burner service and $79 parts cost for Furnace Oil burner.
Stan
I was taught to replace the filter screen inside the fuel unit - some techs skip that step. In addition a tech might find other defective parts that are replaced - though less often
- such as a leaky nozzle adapter, or cracked nozzle electrodes.
Some oil heat service companies offset low hourly rates or no charge for travel time by adding a larger profit margin to the parts
- you're paying them to keep stock on the truck. Certainly it's fair to ask your heating service company what parts were replaced. Let me know.
(Jan 1, 2015) Freddie S. said:
I have built a heater for my greenhouse with a 30 gal barrel inside a 55 gal barrel fired by a detachable rocket stove. There is a thermostat on the outer barrel controlling the air circulation fan. The rocket stove can use wood (vertical feed) or wmo/wvo in a fire chamber.
The system works great, but I have to baby set it to keep it going. My question is, what type and size oil burner can I mount onto the draft door of the rocket stove which is an 8" x 8" tube 20" long entering the heat exchanger (barrels)? The greenhouse is 32' X 14' X 6.5' tube type. I live in West Kentucky USA.
Freddie, with admiration for your creativity, I confess I'm much too scared of giving advice that causes a fire or injury to pretend to prescribe oil burner specifications for a home made heating system.
You might get some help from braver technical experts at one of the oil burner manufacturers, but I'm doubtful. What would be helpful to you would be to obtain manufacturer's specs for combustion chamber design, venting, fire safety, clearances, etc.
Cherubin said:
I notice an eye irritating and burning oil odor COMING FROM THE RIGHT FRONT LOWER CORNER OF MY PEERLESS BOILER WHENEVER IT IS TURNED ON. No real issues with the Beckett burner per se'. What could possibly be the cause of the oil problem?
You need diagnosis from an on-site HVAC tech who can see what's happening. Possible leaks include water, fuel, smoke, combustion gases, depending on just where the leak is occurring and why.
Aat OIL BURNER WONT RUN we have collected oil burner diagnostic procedures from several texts, [1] - [22] adapted, expanded, and generally re-ordered steps in order of most likely to be successful and easiest to perform.
Readers needing an approach to heating system inspections that assures thoroughness, should also
see HEATING SYSTEM INSPECTION PROCEDURE
where we explain an organized approach to inspecting the entire heating system, beginning outdoors, continuing indoors, and ultimately in most detail in the boiler or furnace room.
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