Gas appliance or heater pilot light diagnosis and repair.
This article describes the reasons that the pilot light won't stay lit on some gas appliances and offers repair suggestions that range from quick and trivial like positioning the pilot light sensor properly to a bit more work like replacing the thermocouple sensor itself.
This article series explains what a thermocouple (or thermopile) is, how these similar devices work to support a pilot light on a gas burner, where they are installed, and what goes wrong with thermocouples.
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Watch out: here are some typical manufacturer warnings involving lighting pilot lights on gas heating equipment, both propane and natural gas:
If you are not qualified, do not light pilot lights, perform service, or make adjustments to appliances on the Propane Gas system. If you are qualified, consciously think about the odor of Propane Gas prior to and while lighting pilot lights or performing service or making adjustments.
Sometimes a basement or a closed-up house has a musty smell that can cover up the Propane Gas odor. Do not try to light pilot lights, perform service, or make adjustments in an area where the conditions are such that you may not detect the odor if there has been a leak of Propane Gas. - source: EMPIRE INFRARED HEATER with THERMOSTAT [PDF] Models SR10TW, SR18TW, SR30TW
Typically the gas burner control is pushed-in or held in a spring-loaded position to force gas through the pilot light assembly to permit manually lighting the pilot flame. Instructions for your gas appliance control are usually right on the control.
If you don't know how to light the pilot light, it's easy and safe: details are
at GAS BURNER PILOT LIGHT PROCEDURE
Here is a typical example using the gas water heater control valve shown just above.
Case #1: If you are able to light the pilot on the gas fired appliance but when you release the gas control from it's "LIGHT" position the pilot immediately goes out, if there was a good solid flame that was clearly touching and heating the thermocouple,
that is, the thermocouple was properly positioned in the pilot flame, and if you are sure that you held the control in the LIGHT position long enough for the thermocouple to heat up normally (30 seconds is plenty), then most-likely the thermocouple is defective and simply should be replaced.
In that case,
see THERMOCOUPLE INSTALLATION or REPLACEMENT
But if you want to be thorough and meticulous, read through the Thermocouple Problem Checklist below on this page first. You'll feel as silly as I do [DF] if you go buy a new thermocouple and then at the start of the replacement procedure you find that the existing thermocouple simply wasn't tightly-connected at the gas valve!
Case #2: If you are able to light the gas pilot and it stays lit for minutes or longer but eventually goes out, the cause is probably one of those listed just below.
Watch out: Before trying a new thermocouple check for debris in the pilot light orifice or tubing.
In gas fired equipment that remains shut down for long intervals we sometimes find spiders or insects have nested in the equipment, even mud-dauber wasps, blocking proper gas flow or gas appliance venting.
Photo at left: red arrows indicate the thermocouple tubing and assembly; blue arrows indicate the pilot light tubing & assembly on a horribly rusted Holland brand gas furnace.
We have run into this problem and also read other accounts of it concerning the Gaffers and Sattler
Model S 80 FDF gas fired furnace and similar gas fired heating equipment but this debris clog problem is widespread and may show up on just about any pilot-lit gas fired appliance, even gas log fireplaces and portable heaters.
Check for debris blockage right at the pilot light, inside the gas tube between the pilot light and the gas control valve, and using a fine wire (don't scratch or enlarge the orifice) try cleaning the orifice at the pilot light itself.
Other symptoms of bad thermocouple or dirty thermistor on gas fired equipment:
Short cycling or unexplained on-off cycling of heating equipment has also been traced (by one reader) to a dirty or failing thermocouple (possibly the reader meant a dirty thermistor).
See THERMISTORS
This condition was reported in the FAQs by a reader commenting
at HEAT ANTICIPATOR ADJUSTMENT
If you don't immediately see case 1 or 2 or 3 above, continue with our complete diagnostic list of gas pilot troubles given below on this page.
Case #3: If you are able to light the gas pilot and it stays lit but the main gas valve never opens
and the main gas burner won't ignite, it's possible that the thermocouple tubing has not been properly-connected at the gas valve end.
In this case you can light the pilot flame and it will stay lit, but the gas valve will never open.
What would cause standing pilot flame to keep going out . thermocouple was replaced on my air furnace - Bruce 11/17/12
If your gas appliance pilot light worked previously but now keeps going out, check the causes listed just below.
If your gas appliance pilot light has NEVER worked properly and has had problems with "going out" since the heater or thermocouple was first installed, check our second diagnostic list
at THERMOCOUPLE INSTALLATION SNAFUS.
In residential appliances such as gas boilers, furnaces, ovens and water heaters, the causes of thermocouple failure are listed below, roughly in order of probability, with the most-probable listed first.
If you are looking for parts for Gaffers and Sattler equipment check with Maytag. Separately a Gaffers & Sattler appliance company still does business in Murray UT.
...
Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.
@Diego,
That's an interesting question.
We're in the realm of OPINION here, as I haven't found authoritative research data on abrasion or oxidation damage to the thermocouple tubing where it passes through appliance openings.
Post some sharp photos (one per comment) of your old thermocouple so that we can see what you see and perhaps a photo as well of how the tubing passes through parts of your gas oven.
The typical thermocouple installation instructions given on this page at
https://inspectapedia.com/heat/Thermocouple_Replacement.php#ThermocoupleInstall
do discuss routing.
The tubing needs to be protected from mechanical damage, and extra length safely coiled and placed out of harm's way.
Needless to say experts have researched thermocouple failure. I'll add some of that to the article above.
thanks for asking
On 2022-07-29 by Diego
Great site !
I have replaced the thermocuple succesfully on my kitchen gas oven. It works right....
But when I inspected the old one I have noticed that its copper tube was degradated just wher it comes out of the oven, a 1,5 hole for a 4 mm diameter tube....
Can the copper tube touch the iron case of the oven or that will produce another thermocuple side effect that produce the oxydation in that contact point ?
Or is the water produced in the gas combustion ? Or perhaps a minimmal almost invisible spark from the thermocuple current between the two metals ?
Hoping being clear with my doubt... Thanks !
On 2020-11-29 - by (mod) - flickering pilot light - clean the pilot assembly
I'd clean all of the components, tighten the connection at the gas valve, and if the flickering continues I'd replace the thermopile or thermocouple.
On 2020-11-29 by Michelle
I am troubleshooting an older Williams wall heater. The thermopile “flickers” when it connects with the the lit pilot light.
The pilot light stays lit and steady with the “flickering” thermopile. Flame color is good. The heater works well. The continuous flicker noise is disturbing. Ideas?
Karen
Take a look (and post a photo) of where those two black wires lead. I am GUESSING that they lead to a couple of spill switches that might be located on the draft hood of your heater or right near the burner opening.
Those devices sense dangerous spillage of flue gases, are usually heat-activated, and some models require that the switch be manually-reset by pressing a reset button on the switch after it has cooled.
See details at FLUE GAS SPILL SWITCH TRIPPING & RESET
Let me know if that helps you out.
[Click to enlarge any image]
On 2020-10-13 - by (mod) - Pilot Light Control for old Luxaire furnace using a White-Rodgers 21D18-3 gas system.
Jerry
I don't know what's wrong for sure, Jerry,
a bad thermocouple, a bad thermocouple connection to a gas valve, even a bad igniter or igniter wire or igniter module can all cause the symptom that you describe. Sometimes when a component is failing it is more-vulnerable to moisture or to low temperature, and it will behave differently once warmed-up.
That can explain why your furnace will re-start OK on subsequent on-cycles but won't start up on its own when it's been off for a longer interval.
I'd consider replacing the control; you might want to take a look at the White Rodgers replacement option for the original 21D18-3 gas ignition system described in this
WHITE RODGERS RETROFIT for WR 21D18-3 GAS CONTROL [PDF]
Near the end of those instructions is a helpful gas burner ignition troubleshooting flowchart that I recommend.
I will re-post this Q&A at GAS REGULATORS & APPLIANCE / HEATER CONTROLS inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Gas_Regulators.php
as that article may also be helpful to you
On 2020-10-13 by Jerry
Hello.
I have an old Luxaire furnace using a White-Rodgers 21D18-3 gas system. If the furnace sits idle for any length of time (say overnight) the furnace is unable to produce any spark whatsoever to ignite the pilot. However, once I light the pilot manually and the furnace runs through a cycle, the furnace can produce a consistent strong spark on subsequent cycles, as long as the furnace has not sat idle for too long between these cycles.
It reminds me of a car with a failing battery. You might require a charge (or a jump) in the morning to get it going, but once started you can run any number of errands, successfully restarting the car a number of times. But let it sit overnight, and in the morning another jump is needed.
This have vexed me for some time and I would be thankful for any guidance.
On 2020-03-27 by Karen
Thank you for your answer of 5/2/19 to my on going problem.
This thermocouple has a little side thing on the connector that has two black wires. Now I cannot get the pilot to even try to light. I seem to remember reading something about them being for safety or something.
I had to leave the door open to the heater because the connector sticks out too far and when moved the pilot goes out.
A little giggle and it would work for awhile. Something is loose inside, I think.
Any advice. I could replace the thermocouple again, but now I cannot finknob colors may be red not black) d one with that extra wire thing. Do I have to have that? I have added a picture [above] for you. Thank you.
On 2020-02-24 - by (mod) - thermocouple keeps failing too frequently - was the tube connected properly at the gas valve?
Tony
It would be unusual to get a batch of bad thermocouples such that you have to keep replacing them because of an inherent defect in the thermocouple itself. Not unless they were all made by the same company in the same batch.
When I have run into this recurrent thermocouple problem before it has usually been traced to a problem at one of the two ends of the thermocouple.
One end, at the pilot, needs to be located exactly properly, mounted and placed in the flame of the pilot light.
The other problem at the other end of the thermocouple is more subtle. You can think that you have fully screwed in the connector that pushes the end of the thermocouple into the bottom of the gas valve but it may not actually be fully seated. That could be mistaken for a thermocouple failure, as poor contact can get intermittent or poor thermocouple performance.
It's also possible that the gas control valve itself is damaged or its thermocouple connector threads cross threaded or damaged so that you can't get a good thermocouple connection. That is a less common problem in my experience.
Lastly, it's possible that the defect is in a gas flow or clog problem in the pilot light itself.
On 2020-02-24 0 by Tony Risolo
I have had to replace my thermocoupler 3 times in 4 years the last one only lasted 3 months can you recommend a brand name and why is this continuing to happen My gas boiler is 35 years old and in good condition The boiler is a Hydrotherm
(Nov 3, 2014) Todd said:
lennox g12 furnace pilot light keeps going out. sometimes it will stay lit for weeks sometimes not even a day . Ive cleaned Ive checked for fresh air. My only thought is when it calls for gas, the gas shoots out to fast and blows pilot out.
Todd
Watch out: what you describe sounds dangerous - unsafe. I would shut down the system and have ot repaire. Sounds like a gas regulator problem.
(Nov 5, 2014) Todd said:
I am fully aware of the hazard. And if I could simply afford to have it repaired , I dont think i would be on here trying to get help. sorry if I seem rude but not a flipping idiot.
Reply:
Sorry, Todd. Please appreciate the iffiness of giving repair advice for remote systems involving life safety and where only very limited information about site conditions is known. No one thinks you're an idiot. A service tech would probably check gas pressures, the regulator, piping for blockages, etc.
The simplest repair that's worth trying first is to just replace the thermocouple that senses the flame. It's a standard part - just buy the proper length and check the mount fittings that hold the sensor element in the proper position.
...
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Or see THERMOCOUPLE TROUBLESHOOTING FAQs - questions & answers posted originally at this article
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