Fireplace hearth size, specifications, & support:
This article series provides information about masonry fireplaces, including inspection for damage/hazards (cracks and gaps that appear at masonry fireplaces due to chimney or fireplace settlement or movement), fireplace chimney sizing requirements, draft problems, chimney safety, creosote problems, inserts, and other topics.
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Our photo (left) shows a burned wooden floor in front of a fireplace hearth.
Hearth dimensions: A fireplace hearth should extend at least 16" (M.I.A.) past the front edge of the fireplace and at least 8" beyond each side of the fireplace opening.
Where the fireplace opening is 6 sq. ft. or bigger the front extension needs to be increased to at least 20" and the side extensions to at least 12" beyond the fireplace front.
The hearth for a masonry fireplace needs to be made of a brick, concrete, stone, or other (approved, listed) non-combustible material. The hearth slab needs to be at least 4" in thickness, it has to be supported by noncombustible materials or able to carry its own weight.
The "cribbing" or wood forms used to support a poured concrete hearth should be removed after construction is completed. We often find this wood material left in place - where sparks falling through a crack or gap can start a fire.
2016/07/13 Manku said:
These days hearth extension is 16" inches minimum not 18" inches as mentioned in the sketch, am i right ?
Above: a masonry fireplace with no hearth extension in a home in San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Mexico. This fireplace originally burned wood but has been converted to gas.
Thanks Manku. You're right - mostly. The required specifications for a masonry fireplace, including hearth dimensions depend on both what building codes apply (where you live, country, state or province) and the fireplace overall opening size as well as other features.
The 18" hearth requirement to which you refer was a design recommendation in a fireplace sketch, not a code citation - apologies. The U.S. hearth depth dimensions are 16" or 20" as we explain in more detail here.
Please note that the hearth extension to front of a fireplace, given as 16" or 20" is a minimum dimension not a maximum. More is safer.
In the United States and referring to the ICC, a widely-used model building code, the code specifies a 16" hearth extension to front of the fireplace for fireplaces <6 sq.ft. of opening size, and 20" hearth extension to front of fireplace for fireplaces = or larger than 6 sq. ft.
Quoting:
R1001.10 hearth extension dimensions. hearth extensions shall extend at least 16 inches (406 mm)in front of and at least 8 inches (203 mm) beyond each side of the fireplace opening. where the fireplace opening is 6 square feet (0.6 m2) or larger, the hearth extension shall extend at least 20 inches (508 mm) in front of and at least 12 inches (305 mm) beyond each side of the fireplace opening.
- ICC, Chapter 10, Chimneys and Fireplaces, Section R1001 Masonry Fireplaces, excerpted from the 2006 Virginia Residential Code.
Here's another quote from a typical residential building code:
There shall be a minimum distance of 36 inches from the back of the firebox to the end of the hearth extension. hearth extension shall extend at least 16 inches in front of, and 8 inches beyond each side of the fireplace opening.
When the fireplace opening is 6 sq. ft. or larger, the hearth extension shall extend at least 20 inches in front of, and 12 inches beyond, each side.
- "TB 21, residential building code masonry, chimneys and fireplaces - areas frequently misunderstood." Allegheny county division of permits and land development services residential information sheet # 21 revised january 14, 2003 )
At left in the photo above you can see the remains of a fireplace built into the stone walls of Goodrich Castle, a Norman midieval castle north of the village of Goodrich, Ross on Wye, Herefordshire, U.K.
By the time the original wooden fortification was replaced with a stone keep and then expanded, this 13th century fireplace was very shallow, wide and tall, with a projecting hearth, now mostly fallen away.
You can place the height of the floor relative to the fireplace hearth by noting the openings for floor beams in the opposing wall at the right in this photograph.
[Click to enlarge any image] Search InspectApedia.com for "Goodrich Castle" to see more cameo appearances of this historic old, interesting structure.
You may find a temporary supporting column such as this Lally column which was placed below a sagging fireplace.
Some diagnosis of just what caused settling or movement in a hearth is critical.
A gap appearing between the hearth and the edge of the firebox might be due to inadequate hearth support - not such an ugly repair - or it might be due to settlement of the entire chimney and fire chamber away from the building - a major repair and a dangerous condition.
See BRACKET CHIMNEYS & GALLOWS BRACKETS and
See CHIMNEY COLLAPSE RISKS, REPAIRS.
R1001.10 Hearth extension dimensions.
Hearth extensions shall extend at least 16 inches (406 mm) in front of and at least 8 inches (203 mm) beyond each side of the fireplace opening.
Where the fireplace opening is 6 square feet (0.557 m2) or larger, the hearth extension shall extend at least 20 inches (508 mm) in front of and at least 12 inches (305 mm) beyond each side of the fireplace opening.
R1004.2 Hearth extensions.
Hearth extensions of approved factory-built fireplaces shall be installed in accordance with the listing of the fireplace. The hearth extension shall be readily distinguishable from the surrounding floor area.
All wood beams, joists, studs and other combustible material shall have a clearance of not less than 2 inches (51 mm) from the front faces and sides of masonry fireplaces and not less than 4 inches (102 mm) from the back faces of masonry fireplaces. The air space shall not be filled, except to provide fire blocking in accordance with Section R1003.13.
Exceptions:
1. Masonry fireplaces listed and labeled for use in contact with combustibles in accordance with UL127 and installed in accordance with the manufacturer's installation instructions are permitted to have combustible material in contact with their exterior surfaces.
2. When masonry fireplaces are part of masonry or concrete walls, combustible materials shall not be in contact with the masonry or concrete walls less than 12 inches (305 mm) from the inside surface of the nearest firebox lining.
3. Exposed combustible trim and the edges of sheathing materials such as wood siding, flooring and drywall shall
be permitted to abut the masonry fireplace side walls and hearth extension in accordance with Figure R1001.11, provided such combustible trim or sheathing is a minimum of 12 inches (305 mm) from the inside surface of the nearest firebox lining.
4. Exposed combustible mantels or trim may be placed directly on the masonry fireplace front surrounding the fireplace opening providing such combustible materials shall not be placed within 6 inches (152 mm) of a fireplace opening. Combustible material within 12 inches (305 mm) of the fireplace opening
Original source:
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Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.
On 2021-02-18 by Rosemarie
Thank you for your reply!
On 2021-02-18 by (mod)
Ann and Rosemarie
A hearth does not have to be raised above the surrounding floor but it does have to be properly sized and, of course, supported and fireproof.
On 2021-02-17 by Rosemarie
I have the same question as Ann about the hearth being the same height as the floor. The floor will be porcelain, not wood.
On 2017-08-27 by Ann Victora
Just wondering if a hearth can be the same height as an existing floor for installing a combustion heater
(Aug 14, 2011) Robert said:
When adding support brace under hearth should new footing be poured to support brace and weight
Good question about hearth support, Robert.
If your floor slab is 4" or thicker, you should be OK with placing supporting columns below the hearth right onto the slab surface.
If the floor slab is thinner than 4", if it already shows signs of settlement, cracks, damage, the best repair is to cut a hole in the slab, excavate and pour a footing or pier for your columns, typically using a cardboard tube or form for the pier.
An alternative that I used in many building renovations of older homes where we needed to support an additional Lally column in a basement where the floor slab looked "OK" but was of unknown thickness, was to bed a solid 4" concrete block in concrete right onto the floor surface.
The block served as a footing or pier for the column and helped spread the load out onto a wider area than otherwise had we just put the Lally column base right onto the floor itself.
(Nov 4, 2011) Jim Jackson said:
I had a chimney fire last wintwer and immediately putit out. After that I have noticed that the heatalator that is built in does not work...do I need an inspection and is it covered under my home owners insurance?
Jim I don't know what your homeowner's policy covers - you'll need to call your insurance company to ask. But it makes sense to have an inspection of the system for two reasons
- the chimney may be very unsafe. Frankly, after a chimney fire I would never use that chimney again without first having an expert and thorough inspection of the entire assembly
- the damage, if traced to the fire, may be covered by insurance.
(Nov 21, 2012) Dee said:
I have a glass plate hearth on top of an oak floor and under my log burning stove. It is about 18 months old now. Over the last few months the wood floor underneath the clear glass hearth has started to darken and grow mold.
Now I have droplets of water under the glass and this is clearly where the mold is coming from. What can be causing this? The rest of the wooden flooring is fine, with no mold or dampness even under rugs.
Dee
I'm not sure where it's coming from, but if you are seeing mold growth there has to be a moisture source. Are you sure it's mold?
(Feb 23, 2013) KLynne said:
Inspection of the fire box in the house I am renting revealed cracks and chips. The tech said they are small and adv I could burn occasional fires but not too much wood and no more than 2 hours.
Owner will not replace fire box. I don't want to use it at all due to the cracks and chips but was researching online and saw mention of fireclay mortar that can be used to repair a fire box. Is this a practical and safe way to repair the fire box and be able to use the fireplace?
(Apr 24, 2014) Roger said:
If the firebox is elevated 12" or more off the floor do you still need a non combustible hearth extension or con the hardwood flooring be installed up to the wall that the firebox is located in?
Roger I don't have the full picture of your installation, but a general answer is yes you need a non-combustible hearth even for an elevated fireplace. Depending on the type of fireplace and fuel, at some height the worry about radiated heat damaging the floor would of course diminish, or fall to nil. There remain spark issues.
(Jan 24, 2015) Mary Siegel said:
Have a fireplace with 2 masonry flues. One serves a first floor wood burning fireplace and the second was built to serve a lower level wood burning fireplace. Since we never used the lower level fireplace, we built an outdoor fireplace on the back side of the lower level place and used that flue to vent it.
Both the first floor and outside fireplaces work fine with this configuration. However, this year we decided to put a vent free log system in the lower level (closed off) fireplace. This fireplace had a damper with a space above it. Question: is there a way to vent our vent free logs to get rid of the gas smell. Could we install a vent that goes from the space above the damper to the outside? I believe there is plenty of depth in the masonry to fit a vent but would that work and is this safe?
Mary
Sharing a fireplace flue is asking for trouble in draft as well as raising safety and fire spread concerns (which is why it's a code violation).
For a gas fireplace insert you'll want to provide both combustion air and venting as per the manufacturer's specs. You MIGHT be able to do that by building a direct vent to the outdoors for each purpose. I've done that using a small positive vent fan to assure no backdrafting. You'll be required to and should want to also ask for a building permit and inspections.
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