Chimney cleanout doos & opening questions and answers:

Frequently-asked questions & answers about how to find, install, or repair a cleanout opening or access in a chimney.

This article series describes chimney cleanout access doors or ports. We explain that in addition to using the chimney cleanout as a service port to remove debris that has fallen to the bottom of a masonry chimney, the cleanout door and the type of debris found inside can tell us something about the condition of the chimney flue even though we cannot see most of it.

Chimney Cleanout Door Q&As

Where you can find a chimney cleanout or can remove a flue vent connector to look into a flue, use of a mirror inside the flue to view the flue from below.

[Click to enlarge any image]

Questions & answers about chimney cleanouts & cleanout openings, posted originally at CHIMNEY CLEANOUT DOOR - be sure to see the advice given there.

On 2020-10-14 - by (mod) -

chimney cleanout too close to combustible materials

I certainly won't bet your life on leaving those wood furring strips around the cleanout door; you can however keep combustibles 18" away and if you don't like to see the concrete block you could consider a cement stucco finish around the cleanout. That may look better than an 36" square metal cover over the whole cleared area.

By the way, the wood furring above and below the existing chimney cleanout door looks darkened: is this from water leaks, soot and smoke, or heat and thus confirmation that an actual fire hazard was present ?

On 2020-10-14 by Nubbles

I have a wood stove connected to a cinderblock chimney. The flue runs into the chimney stock 3' and then goes up. Below the flue, about a foot down there is a cleanout door. In the past we have had it covered by a paneled wood door. We are redoing the room and have taken the paneling down to put up drywall.

We had the chimney inspected and cleaned - it's in Maine and we burn wood in the real cold winter months.

But we are being advised to have 18" of clearance around the clean out door from any combustables...(like the woodpaneling that was there before).

This is in the middle of a family room so I'm tring to keep it neater looking - any suggestions? Any recommendations on access doors...to go over the cleanout door? It would not replace the cleanout door ...just cover it with something more appealing.

On 2020-03-24 by (mod)

Samantha

Is this a fireplace chimney and cleanout?

"HOT" suggests to me that burning embers or coals have fallen into the chimney base.

Take care.

Watch out: if you hear roaring noises or see dense smoke coming out of the chimney top GET OUT of the home IMMEDIATELY and call your fire department as you may have a dangerous chimney fire.

On 2020-03-24 by Samantha

What would cause the outside chimney clean out door to get extremely hot?

On 2020-02-11 by (mod)

Pete

This sounds incomplete to me but then, I don't have all of the information one needs.

Fundamental questions need to be answered for safe and proper fireplace operation:

1. fireplaces nor other heaters located on different floors can not share the same chimney flue

2. the chimney flue needs to be intact, un-damaged, not leaking

3. there needs to be a proper chimney cap to avoid down drafts

4. there should not be improper openings into the flue that would subvert proper draft

and of course these four are not all of the safety points.

On 2020-02-11 by Pete

Thanks. I went to a local fireplace store and they recommended that I shut off the pilot light in the basement fireplace and close the flu. Hopefully that will stop most of the problem. We don't have many fires in the basement fireplace so I can just restart it and open the flu when we do.

On 2020-02-10 by (mod)

Pete

Any downdraft felt at a fireplace or woodstove suggests maybe a missing or bad chimney cap.

On 2020-02-10 by Pete

Thanks for your thoughts. I sealed the ash door better but that didn't seem to stop the smoke with the fire I had last night.

I went to my basement gas fireplace and could definitely feel a cold draft coming out of it which makes me think it's pulling from outside the chimney and grabbing the smoke coming out of the wood fireplace. My next thought is to check into a more modern gas fireplace being installed in the basement which would have a better seal.

On 2020-02-04 by (mod)

Pete

From your note I don't know what's wrong, though your interest in the ash -dump door is a good place to look, I think it's not enough.

I can but offer some things to check

I'd ask for help from a certified chimney sweep asap - my concern is that

you may be sharing a single flue on more than one floor (unsafe)
or

that a muti-flue chimney may be cross-leaking between flues (unsafe and heaters don't work properly)

Or that there's a chimney cap or flue problem causing inadequate draft at the fireplace (check for a creosote hazard while you're at it)

Or that an ash pit door in a fireplace or a cleanout door in the basement is not closed properly.

Normally as long as the cleanout door that you mention closes flush and doesn't have holes in it, it's not going to cause the problem you describe.

On 2020-02-01 by Pete

I have a wood burning fireplace upstairs and an older gas fireplace in the basement. When we burn wood we get a very smoky smell in the basement. No smoke, just the smell. We have already put an extension on our outer flu to prevent back draft. How is the smoke smell getting to the basement? Could it be going down the ash dump from the upstairs fireplace into the basement? The ash dump door doesn't seem to have a good seal and could use some mortar sealant.

On 2019-10-14 - by (mod) -

there are no clean out for either flue pipes anywhere

If it's sand it's probably fine in place;

If there are ashes and cinders and you're dead sure there are no live sparks, you can use a shop vac to remove more of the material.

If the original mason thought there ought to be sand below the thimble I'd retain that; we don't know the construction of the chimney, fireplace, chimney nor its fire safety - has the chimney ever been inspected by a certified chimney sweep or similar expert - for safety and condition?

On 2019-10-14 by Douglas E

I have a home built in 1972. It has a masonry fireplace on the main level, centered in the home with a separate flue from the wood stove thimble on the lower level of the home that is up towards the ceiling.

My question is this: there are no clean out for either flue pipes anywhere. while doing my routine wood stove flue cleaning via the cap with a chimney brush and via the thimble to remove the creosote tailings, etc.

i discovered some type of cavity below the thimble, by probing through a fairly thick layer of build up with a small garden trowel. I assume to be an ash dump. I probed it wit a rod and it appears to be about 18 in. deep and filled with soot and sand.

I manually removed about 5 inches of material below the thimble opening with my hand into the bottom of the flue pipe. Should i vacuum out the soot/ sand? buildup or just let it be with the 5 inches removed, as I do not ever allow build up to accumulate and reduce the exhaust stream volume of the flue pipe.

Since there are no clean out doors, and there appears to have been backfilled with sand, should i replace the 5 inches of sand? so as to retard any turbulence of exhaust heat and gasses form the woodstove?

On 2019-02-07 by (mod) - Do you have to have a clean out if you are just venting a hot water heater?

from private email:

Anonymous asked

Do you have to have a clean out if you are just venting a hot water heater? It is going through the roof. Can just a 90 be used if your furnace is not gas?
Thank you ,
2019/01/29

Reply

probably ok - depending on your local codes - but it means service cost goes up or proper service gets ignored as the tech has to disassemble the flue to inspect or clean - not uncommon

On 2018-10-22 by (mod) - clean out the ash pit,

You would at least clean out the ash pit, install a tight cleanout door, and have the chimney inspected for safety and probably professionally cleaned. Converting fuels without those steps is potentially quite unsafe.

On 2018-10-22 by Joe Guante

My wood fireplace has been changed to a gas burning fire fireplace. The ash cleaner door is all broken and has holes in it.

Can I just remove the door and seal up the opening and stucco over it? It would look a lot better from the outside.

And I rarely use the gas fireplace. Joe Guante

On 2018-08-05 by (mod) - Replacing the chimney cleanout door,

Replacing the chimney cleanout door, assuming it is on the inside of the building, would not explain a water leak problem through the chimney into the building unless in the course of replacing the door someone pounded on masonry and cracked or broke the chimney walls.

Instead of filling the flue with concrete - which might not help the problem at all, let's find and fix the point of water entry such as

-leaks at the chimney top - no cap, cracked crown,

- leaks over the chimney's height - cracks into the chimney walls

- surface runoff or roof spillage at or just below ground level at the chimney base

Just above I've added an index to our articles diagnosing various types of chimney leaks. I'd ask that you take a look at that material and let me know how you succeed with your leaky chimney.

You may need to refresh your browser's cache to see the updated article with those links.

Posting some photos of the chimney from outside and the leakage inside would also permit more-specific comments.
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On 2018-08-05 by Veronica

The chimney is COMPLETELY abandoned not in use by anything at all and will not be again. The clean out door had tons of debris the door was old and rusty so we got the debris out and replaced the door while remodeling in the basement and now there is a water leak.

We have tried everything to fix it and it still leaks. There was NO leak before doing that cleaning and replacement of door. Can that part of the flue be filled in with cement or something else?

On 2017-11-20 by (mod) - woodstove into a vertical metal chimney may have a tee with a removable cleanout.

Ross,

A woodstove into a vertical metal chimney may have a tee with a removable cleanout. But if you're venting into a masonry flue, then Investigate further. I'm not clear on "falls straight down" - to where? To a crawl space? Basement? Chimney base? Sometimes there's an outdoor cleanout door.

Beware of a chimney with no cleanout or an opening with no door - I'd worry about more than cleaning it, as there can also be draft snafus.

For safety it'd be smart to have the chimney inspected before use. (I know it's getting cold but ...) And you had a permit, right? The permit/inspection can improve the new stove's safety.

IF you have to add a cleanotu door, check out CHIMNEY CLEANOUT CLEARANCE to COMBUSTIBLES https://inspectapedia.com/chimneys/Chimney_Cleanout_Clearance.php

You might want to see WOOD STOVE OPERATION & SAFETY https://inspectapedia.com/heat/Wood_Stoves.php


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On 2017-11-20 by Ross

My question, I just put in a wood stove and their is no clean out that I can see. From the top of the chimney it looks like it it falls straight down in the cavity of the house. What do I need to do?

On 2019-01-31 5 by (mod) - problems in the ash pit or cleanout

Robin

The cleanout ash pit and door are intended to collect soot and ash falling down a flue and to provide a way to remove it. The pit must be below the point at which heating equipment flues and vents enter the chimney itself to prevent a dangerous flue blockage.

But if your ONLY heating equipment is a gas heater there ought to be virtually no debris in the ash pit; If you see soot at a gas fired appliance flue something is wrong with the heating system, air supply, or venting, and it's very dangerous, risking fatal carbon monoxide poisoning.

So if this is your case you need immediate inspection from a certified chimney sweep or gas appliance service tech.

Meanwhile be darn sure you have properly installed and working CO and smoke detectors.

If there is NO soot but ther is masonry debris that might range from trivial and normal to signs that the chimney is damaged and unsafe.

On 2019-01-30 by Robin

I am a new homeowner and my chimney has a clean out door. Luckily, it doesn't appear to leak and it is fully accessible.

When I opened the door, I noted that the box into which the debris falls is about 1/4 of the way. I have a gas furnace. My question is, is the purpose of this just to catch the debris that fall into the chimney, mortar debris etc...or does it serve another purpose. Also, what is the frequency with which I should maintain the chimney? Thank you so much for help.

On 2018-10-01 by (mod) - You are 100 percent correct about the burn temperature

Thanks for the added notes, Joe. The details you added about chimney height requirements are correct. More details are

at CHIMNEY HEIGHT & CLEARANCE CODE https://inspectapedia.com/chimneys/Chimney_Height_Codes_Specifications.php

The safest sequence would be to clean the chimney, inspect to confirm no thick creosote deposits, and from that point get your heat up to the acceptable or safe burn temperature.

I had a similar problem with a lovely Jotul woodstove that was over-sized for the space where it was used, a well-insulated addition to a home. To avoid making the heated space too hot the stove was virtually never run at a sufficient temperature to avoid creosote problems. It was always run very slowly. The wood would burn but creosote accumulated far too fast to be safe.

Ultimately we removed the stove and went to a smaller one that could be run hot-enough without overheating the space in which it was located.

We also kept a suitable fire extinguisher by the stove and two others by the two exit doors to the home.

On 2018-10-01 by Joe

You are 100 percent correct about the burn temperature. I checked my thermometer and in 35 years of burning wood I have never noticed the small print that says (Too Cool) I have included a picture.

The wood furnace has an 8 inch outlet and I have a 6 inch flue. The installer said the smaller flue would be good because it would give me more draft. I don't know if that's true but that's what he told me.

When I started to burn wood, I contacted my insurance company to let them know, they sent out someone to inspect the installation. I had to call the mason back to increase the height of my chimney. I have a ranch house with the wood furnace in my basement. They told me the chimney needs to extend 3ft up from the roof (and it did) but what was needed was the chimney to extend 2ft higher than any part of the roof with in 10ft of the chimney.

I will start to heat my flue up to 250 twice a day. I will start with short burn times until I feel comfortable with what I'm doing so I don't hurt my chimney or start a fire. I have to let you know, I'm a little uncomfortable with that but fully understand the need for some heat with the problem I have.

I burn red and white oak, my wood is stacked up in face cords and the wood that I will be burning that season will have old roofing metal that covers the top of the pile.

So glad I found your site and your willingness to help me with the information you provided. I'll let you know later in the winter what I find.

Thanks

On 2018-09-30 by (mod) - If your flue doesn't reach 250F you are definitely going to get a lot more and a lot faster creosote accumulation.

Joe

If your flue doesn't reach 250F you are definitely going to get a lot more and a lot faster creosote accumulation.

Take a look at this cresosote information inspectapedia.com/chimneys/Creosote-Fire-Prevention-UI-Ext.pdf

from
Karsky, Thomas J., CREOSOTE FIRE PREVENTION [PDF], The Creosote Problem: Chimney Fires and Chimney Cleaning, University of Idaho Cooperative Extension, retrieved 2018/09/30,

original source: www.uidaho.edu/~/media/UIdaho-Responsive/Files/Extension/forestry/WFS6-The-Creosote-Problem-Chimney-Fires-and-Chimney-Cleaning.ashx

When I heated with wood I made a point of having a hot fire at least once a day. Frankly it's scary heating up the flue daily and more-scary to let creosote accumulate until we can burn the place down. The worry is of course setting the creosote on fire and burning down the building.

The problem is more acute if your firewood is green or has a lot of sap remaining. If wood is 2-3 years old and was stacked to let it dry it should be pretty good. (Varying by species of course).

A tall chimney (necessary in a tall building) is also going to be cooler near the top and thus more condensation-prone.

Regular cleaning and inspection are important, as we agree.

But if we never run the chimney hot we can be sure creosote is going to accumulate rapidly; in addition some corrosive condensate drips down the flue.

A wood stove chimney thermometer typically has a "burn zone" marked on the thermometer telling us the "cleaning" temperature to reach once a day. (Obviously we don't run that hot all day).

Send me a photo of your woodstove chimney thermometer.

Notice the example image I'll post below: the HomeSaver stove thermometer (Woodland Direct and other vendors) points out that the best operating temperature is between about 260 and 460 F.

also see WOOD STOVE OPERATION & SAFETY - home - at https://inspectapedia.com/heat/Wood_Stoves.php

Keep me posted - what you find will help other readers.

Stay safe. (Smoke detectors give some added protection)
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On 2018-09-30 by Joe - I clean the chimney once a month weather it needs it or not. I get about 1/4 to 1/3 grocery bag full of creosote.

I clean the chimney once a month weather it needs it or not. I get about 1/4 to 1/3 grocery bag full of creosote.

I have a stainless steel chimney cap with 5 inch clearance from the top of the flue to the top of the cap. I purchased the cap from the same people that installed and purchased the stove from.
This is my second wood furnace and I have the same problem as I did with the first one.

My wood is 2 to 3 years old.
I think you might have something with the temperature burn as I have a thermometer on my stove pipe that will read from 150 to 200 all the time.

I will talk to them about the creosote build up where the temperature change takes place.

Thanks for the info.

On 2018-09-30 by (mod) - effects of the right chimney cap

Joe

A UL-listed, properly-designed and installed chimney cap will actually improve draft rather than harm it, by preventing winds from blowing down the flue.

So taking off the chimney cap isn't a good idea.

But if your chimney cap is home-made, not properly sized or not properly installed it might be causing trouble.

I'm not sure what build-up you mean, perhaps creosote. It's indeed a concern that creosote build-up, that occurs where the chimney is cooler, is a fire hazard.

I'd discuss the concern with the wood burning appliance manufacturer to hear what they suggest.

Among their ideas might be:

be sure you're burning dried wood, not green wood
be sure you run the heater at a high-enough temperature and long enough at least once a day
be sure the chimney is inspected for safety by a certified chimney sweep and cleaned as needed
possibly (not usually appropriate) you could need a draft inducer
and
do not go to sleep in the home without working smoke detectors properly installed, located, tested.

On 2018-09-30 by Joe

I have a fairly good draft on my wood burning masonary chimney. The problem I have is where the chimney leaves the house and enters the attic, the temperature change is cooling the hot exhaust so fast that I have a lot of build up at that location. I have noticed when the chimney clean out door is cracked open, I have a little more draft. Is this a good fix to the problem or am I cooling the smoke even faster?

One other question. If I take the chimney Cap off in the cold winter months with no chance of rain. Will this increase my draft?

On 2018-08-09 by (mod) -

I may not understand the situation correctly but I don't see why the 2' height from ground at entry to the flue is an issue.

On 2018-08-09 by Scott

I am looking to replace an existing (corroding) brick chimney with a clay flue to a pipe chimney. My hang-up now is how low the pipe comes out of the basement before going up. The pipe through the wall is only about 2' max. above the exterior ground. Will being this low be affected at all by snow (live in upstate NY). Thanks for the help!

On 2017-09-29 by (mod) -

Chris,

I agree that certainly you don't want to be climbing on a snow or ice covered roof - a fall is way too likely.

I'm unclear why you would be accessing a roof to get into a chimney cleanout opening in the first place as those doors are normally at or close to the chimney base.

The cleanout door needs to be at a location that gives access to the bottom of the chimney flue and any ash pit.

For chimney cleaning, there are chimney cleanout services that can work from the chimney base rather than the chimney top.

On 2017-09-28 by Chris okeefe

Can I put a clean out door at the same level as my interior pipe coming into the chimney for my wood stove ?I also have another clean out door below this about 3 feet (to actually clean out the soot) .the reason I want to put another door on is to get away from the hassle of getting on the roof to clean it when there is snow .

On 2017-11-20 by (mod) - what if there is no cleanout at the woodstove chimney?

Ross,

A woodstove into a vertical metal chimney may have a tee with a removable cleanout. But if you're venting into a masonry flue, then Investigate further. I'm not clear on "falls straight down" - to where? To a crawl space? Basement? Chimney base? Sometimes there's an outdoor cleanout door.

Beware of a chimney with no cleanout or an opening with no door - I'd worry about more than cleaning it, as there can also be draft snafus.

For safety it'd be smart to have the chimney inspected before use. (I know it's getting cold but ...) And you had a permit, right? The permit/inspection can improve the new stove's safety.

IF you have to add a cleanout door, check out CHIMNEY CLEANOUT CLEARANCE to COMBUSTIBLES https://inspectapedia.com/chimneys/Chimney_Cleanout_Clearance.php

You might want to see WOOD STOVE OPERATION & SAFETY https://inspectapedia.com/heat/Wood_Stoves.php

On 2017-11-20 by Ross

My question, I just put in a wood stove and their is no clean out that I can see. From the top of the chimney it looks like it it falls straight down in the cavity of the house. What do I need to do?

On 2017-11-07 by (mod) - metal chimney tee face or bottom removable cap for cleanout access

Dennis,

I'm not quite sure what you're looking for, but typically what I see on the bottom of the tee is a removable cap. Obviously you wouldn't open it without a bucket below to catch the debris that will fall out

On 2017-11-06 by Dennis Mock

I have a new chimmey system for my wood stove. My question is about the type of cleanout side that needs to attach to the bottom of the triple wall 6" T. Do they make anything like that or will I have to fab one up?

On 2017-06-26 by Crumps Chimney Company

@Joan,

I know it can be a pain to chase a leak, but it can be found and corrected! I suggest

1. Find a Chimney Professional with 10 plus years experience.

2. Have this professional on call when it's raining!

3. Also have them come out before a rainy day to get a grasp on the situation!

4. Someone who's just a certified chimney sweep, will not be enough experience, you need a seasoned person who have seen it all, and have in place a continuous education program for there company,

5. You hound elect to pay $ 300.00 for a good inspection! I hope this helps! Best to you! Ken

On 2017-04-29 by (mod) -

Joan:

Perhaps a chimscan camera run by your chimney sweep can inspect the flue interior to see the height at which water is entering the flue; it can be anywhere from chimney top - bad rain cap, to top crown - bad seal at chimney top around the flue, to wind-blown rain along the chimney exterior (you tuck pointed it but still there could be leaks), to roof spillage or surface runoff that flows towards the building and leaks into the chimney base. Follow the water.

More points of leaks into chimneys are at CHIMNEY DAMAGE, FROST & MOISTURE - https://inspectapedia.com/chimneys/Chimney_Water_Damage.php
and
at CHIMNEY STAINS & LEAKS https://inspectapedia.com/chimneys/Chimney_Stains_Leaks.php
and a few more
at CHIMNEY STAINS, INDOORS -https://inspectapedia.com/chimneys/Chimney_Interior_Stains.php

Also review CHIMNEY REPAIRS, TOP & CLAY FLUE TILE https://inspectapedia.com/chimneys/Chimney_Top_Tile_Repairs.php to be sure that all of the repairs at the very chimney top crown were done properly

On 2017-04-29 by Joan

My chimey clean-out door is in the basement. It has leaked water in heavy rainstorms for 17 years. I've spent hundreds of $$ - nothing works. (Tuckpointed the chimney, installed a VERY expensive cap with a grate on top of the chimney, last summer a new roof.) I have a gas fireplace and don't even need a clean-out. Does anyone have any advice?

On 2017-04-24 by (mod) - Smoke moving down into a basement from a first floor suggests safety concerns

Hy

Smoke moving down into a basement from a first floor suggests a couple of problems to be found and fixed:

1. the chimney draft is inadequate - could be a problem with chimney leaks in from above or below the fireplace on the first floor, subverting the draft, or could be a bad chimney cap or downdrafts or inadequate chimney height

- you need an inspection from a competent, expert chimney sweep, perhaps certified by the National Chimney Sweeps guild. (Start by checking that the chimney cleanout door is closed and snug).

2. There may be improper and unsafe connections between chimney flues if there are multiple flues

3. There may be improper and unsafe connections in a single chimney flue between floors in the building

On 2017-04-24 by hyjr12

when my wife lights a fire on the main floor (1st) I get smoke in the basement. I had the both flues replaced last year and the fire box sprayed to cover some minor holes.

I cant figure out where the smoke is coming from. I had a new furnace installed last year and the out going pipe is properly sealed to the chimney.

On 2017-04-21 by (mod) re: risk of fire when using a home vacuum cleaner to clean out a chimney base

HY

What a perfectly smart question.

I offer a couple of remarks in answer:

Sure you can use a shop vac to clean ash out through the cleanout door of a chimney

BUT

IF there is the slightest chance that there are live coals or ashes in the chimney base you will set the shop vac on fire and risk a building fire

AND

Unless you have a filter bag over the filter of your shop vac you'll need to replace the filter and clean the vac after the fire ... I mean after the cleanout.

Ash is not so bad but oil burner soot and crud that fall down from a heating flue is incredibly irritating and makes very fine and very messy dust.

That's why heating companies usually use a dedicated vacuum cleaner, and one that's HEPA rated.

On 2017-04-20 by hyjr12

can you use a shop vac to clean out the ash in the clean out door?

On 2017-04-02 by (mod) re: paint for chimney cleanout doors

Sure, Kenny, you can paint a metal cleanout door on a chimney: I would recommend use of a high grade exterior paint specified for use on metal.

On 2017-04-02 by kenny

the empty cleanout door on a chimney can you paint it

On 2017-03-29 by (mod) re: raw masonry below the chimney thimble

Mark I don't quite understand the question.

If the chimney is masonry it may have a clay flue tile liner that extends downwards below the thimble to a cleanout door, though it's common also to find just raw masonry starting a short distance below the thimble and sometimes a larger-still ash pit.

Solve the problem easily with a mirror and a flashlight - look in the cleanout door and up.

On 2017-03-29 by Mark

Want to replace my chimney liner, is there a pipe which goes from the bottom of the thimble down to the close out door or is it just open below the thimble? Thanks

On 2017-02-27 by (mod) re: cedar block basement walls?

Cedar block basement walls? That's not a material with which I'm familiar. Please use the page top or bottom CONTACT link to send me some sharp photos and we can comment further.

Generally foundations are not built to be as waterproof as Noah's Ark - we need to direct roof runoff, surface runoff, etc. away from the building.

On 2017-02-27 by Venida Brown

Question: My clean-out door fell off and I'm going to replace it but the area around the frame of the door is crumbling. My basement walls are cedar block and I've had a small leak for year. I've had work done on the chimney and around the chimney such as sealing the outside base with liquid cement and tare.

None of these things stopped the leak. My basement has been water proofed but I have a real bad problem. Who should I call to repair this? Thank you help.

On 2017-02-23 by (mod) re: need for a chimney cleanout door

Brian:

You want a working cleanout door at the base of the chimney flue to clean out fallen soot and debris, though if there is enough height (several feet) between the thimble (where the flue vent connector from the oil fired heater enters the chimney flue) and the chimney base/cleanout door you could probably accumulate years of crud before it would begin to block the flue.

you also want a door that closes properly and seals, since holes in the chimney base will subvert the chimney draft and can cause improper, even unsafe oil burner operation.

Temporarily you can simply seal the door opening with any fireproof material.

Replacement chimney cleanout doors are widely sold at building suppliers and some heating or plumbing suppliers.

On 2017-02-22 by Brian Neville

interior cleanout door has fallen out of cement foundation on my chimney for oil furnace. Do I still need cleanout door for oil furnace? How do I seal door back in ? just cement interior of door then hold it tight till set.. Then skim coat chimney door frame rim?

On 2016-11-09 by (mod) re: refractory cement to repair fireplace

Pat, there are refractory cements rated for high heat that are used in masonry fireplace construction. Don't use regular cement, nor caulk.
Examples:

• MEECO'S RED DEVIL 1352 Furnace Cement and Fireplace Mortar
• Meeco's Red Devil Furnace Cement and Fireplace Mortar - same product in smaller tube.
• Hercules 1/2 gal. Furnace/Stove Cement-35515

On 2016-11-09 by Pat

We have a masonry fireplace with a door that closes tight once the wood is loaded in - it has a great draw and is an excellent source of heat once the unit has warmed up. We opened up all of the cleanouts and now want to seal them back in and are not sure which product to use.

They had been fixed in with some sort of mortar or cement, which we had to chip out (not easy), so expect that we need to put them back in with the same type of product. Your suggestions would be appreciated.

On 2016-05-20 by Anonymous

) hello this is Debra, my husband said Thank-you for your advice!!! He agrees with your solutions and is going to give them a try!! We hope for the best, once again thanks for taking the time to respond. God Bless you & yours!!!

On 2016-05-17 by (mod) re: fixing an old chimney cleanout that leaks

Debra:

Start fixing this problem outside with

1. a proper rain cap on the chimney
2. inspection for driven-rain leak points in the chimney walls
3. (most liklely) surface runoff or roof runoff that is draining towards rather than away from the chimney.

On 2016-05-16 by debra1137@att.net

chimney box (is from an old furnace, so its not in use-it is empty) when it rains water fills in the old chimney clean-out and leaks into basement from the bottom of the clean-out door. I tried sealing it many times but to no avail it just keeps leaking! What do i do?

does this problem needs to be fixed from the outside of my house underground, by the chimney? please help! my basement is flooding!

On 2015-10-28 by Art Tate

My home is 25 years old. I have a wood burning fireplace with an ash dump 15 ft. deep with a clean out door at the bottom. It is full now at the top but there is no ash at the bottom.

The pit is made of a matrix of concrete block. I have rammed rods down into it which opens it up a little but it soon clogs again. The fireplace has been use extensively. Is there a way to clean this pit out?

On 2015-06-17 by (mod) re: Dublin chimney ash dump repair

Hey Don thanks for the question.

I have some theories but no facts.

1. If the ash dump that was abandoned was not sealed and if water leaks into that space, even though it has been bricked up water + cresote = smells.

2. with no ash dump what is supposed to happen to the fireplace ashes ? Essentially you're expected to clean them after use of the fireplace or heater.

The requirement for an ash dump may be part of your local codes - are you asking about codes for Dublin Ireland or elsewhere?

On 2015-06-16 by Don in Dublin

Hi, I had a chimney ash dump that went to the exterior (outside)of a masonry chimney. The interior was in the floor of the burn box. The door and entire frame of the ash dump assembly on the exterior was falling out of the mortar and brick of the chimney.

I had a chimney repair company come out and they removed the exterior ash dump door and bricked in the chimney where it had been. On the interior they removed the ash dump assembly and put in fire brick.

So the entire ash dump has been removed and bricked in now. They also put on a top sealing damper. I burned several fires over the winter and the chimney seemed to draw ok once the fire was actually going. Smoked some at first. However, with no fire and all the ash cleaned out completely the fire place just smells. It is so bad that it stinks up the entire living room. Almost to the point of the room being unusable.

Doesn't matter if the lower damper and top damper are closed or open. It just smells all the time now.

Is this a problem created because the ash dump was removed and bricked in? If so, should this chimney repair company have known this would cause a problem if they knew what they were doing.

Is there some kind of code (I'm in Ohio) that says every masonry fire place must have an ash dump?

Question: Do I need cleanout doors on my chimneys?

(Sept 10, 2011) Do I need cleanout doors? said:

Hi,
I have two cleanout doors--the ash cleanout from the fireplace. (I never use that cleanout) and the cleanout door for the heating area, which I also don't use. (The gas furnace and gas water heater both go directly into the flue). So I'm wondering--do I need EITHER of these doors or can I seal them up? Thanks!

Reply:

As long as the cleanout doors are properly fitted, snug, not leaky, they're not interfering with draft, and should be left intact to permit chimney inspection.

Question: fireplace enclosures?

(Oct 24, 2012) grant said:

i have a wooden enclosed fireplace. in the attic three sides are closed the one facing the interior has been left open . do i need to enclose it as well. if so what material do i use?

Reply:

I am unclear on what you're describing, Grant. A "wooden" enclosed fireplace sounds to me like kindling designed to set a house on fire.

If you mean you have a zero-clearance metal fireplace enclosed in a wood structure or chimney chase, that can be safe provided the installation followed the manufacturer's installation instructions, including fire safety clearances (and of course complied with local codes).

I'm unclear on what was left open in the attic and what was enclosed and of course we don't know what type of chimney was installed. So I'm too chicken hearted to recommend specific steps or materials for an installation I know so little about.

Watch out: for safety I suggest asking your local building department of fire department to inspect this installation for safety and code compliance.

Question: should I fill in the chimney base with insulation?

(Feb 26, 2014) Anonymous said:

I was told to fill clean out area with insulation to stop draft?
Is that correct?

Reply:

Anon I'm unclear what area you plan to fill with insulation but this does not sound like a safe, recommended treatment of a chimney. See my inspection recommendation for the reader just above.

Question: chimney cleanout installation details.

(5 Oct 2014) Nathan Miller said:

I have a fireplace with a chimney that slopes about thirty degrees above the damper towards the outer wall of the chimney, leaving it very difficult to clean debris above the damper.

This space is about four feet from my chimney flue. Now I have installed a cleanout door on the outside of the chimney, twelve by twelve. My glue is eleven by eleven. I put fire brick on the wall where part of the flue liner was broken out. Now my question, do I need to insulate the clean out door somehow?

This question was originally posted at ANGLED CHIMNEYS

Reply:

Nathan

Chimney cleanout doors are not normally insulated - and I'd be worried lest someone try doing so, especially if they applied a combustible material.

But you do want to be sure the door closes tightly so as not to subvert the chimney draft.

Question:

(Nov 29, 2014) Dazy said:
I have a gas insert now in my old fireplace... may I , and HOW, can I fill the old Chimney cleanout because I get alot of cold draft from it?

Reply:

Dazy I moved your question and our reply into the article series above at

SEALING a CHIMNEY CLEANOUT DOOR

so that I had more room for a detailed reply. Let me know if question sremain.

Question: water on the chimney cleanout

(Dec 16, 2014) D.Burrows said:
We have a gas furnace in a furnace room, connected to an exterior brick chimney below grade. the chimney clean out door from time to time water appears on its ledge. Would the be condensation from the chimney? or another problem.

Reply:

DB

You or your chimney sweep will need to open the cleanout door to answer this question; if the chimney is flooded from outside water sources that's a different topic from condensation running down the flue.

...

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• CHIMNEY CLEANOUT CLEARANCE to COMBUSTIBLES
• CHIMNEY CLEANOUT DOOR - topic home
• CHIMNEY INSPECTION DIAGNOSIS REPAIR - home
• DRAFT REGULATOR SOOT INSPECTION for another spot where it may be possible to inspect for clues about the condition of a chimney and its safety.

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