A/C condensate drain questins and answers:

Q&A on condensate drain or condensate disposal codes, installation, leaks, clogs, connections, troubleshooting & repair.

A/C or Heat Pump Condensate Disposal Drain FAQs

These questions & replies were posted originally

at CONDENSATE DRAINS, CODES - topic home. Be sure to review the diagnosis and repair advice given there.

Carson Dunlop's sketch (left) shows the proper locations for disposal of air conditioner or heat pump condensate.

[Click to enlarge any image]

Notice that one of the most common condensate disposal locations, connection to a plumbing stack vent pipe, is not recommended and is prohibited by building code in some jurisdictions.

On 2020-10-26 by John

Thanks very much

On 2020-10-26 by (mod) - restrictions in the vertical height the condensate pump can pump?

John,

Yes condensate pump lift height is limited, varying by model. 8 ft may be a typical limit.

On 2020-10-26 by John

Are there any restrictions in the vertical height the condensate pump can pump?

We just moved into a house where the little pump is installed at floor level and the drain hose is installed up to the ceiling, then across to a drain then down to floor level again into the drain. This lift is about 9 feet! Can this little pump handle that?

On 2020-06-27 - by (mod) -

Nancy

Unfortunately, not quite.

The little kindness a pump that you mentioned expects Cod and say to be delivered into the pumps own little Reservoir by gravity flow.

The pump does not have a suction capacity to draw condensate into its body. It can however lift condensate up to a appropriate dream destination. Perhaps you can put your humidifier on a platform.

On 2020-06-27 by Nancy

We have a portable air conditioner with a floor level drain outlet (DeLonghi Pinguino AC).

There's no way to drain it without flooding the carpet and can't raise it up. Question: if we get a Little Giant condensate pump is it possible to attach the AC drain outlet to the pump input without the AC being higher than the pump?

The output hose can drain out onto the patio. Hope this makes sense. Thanks.

On 2018-06-15 by Anonymous

Sorry, I was referring to a blow-through unit where the condensate drains have positive air pressure. In my case the main drain was trapped and runs to a sink but the back-up (secondary) drain was open above the drip pan.

In order to prevent that cold, pressurized air from leaking into an unconditioned space, like my attic, I added a trap. I wasn't aware if this was ill advised or against any common codes. Thanks.

On 2018-06-15 - by (mod) -

Apologies, the question is beyond me. "Secondary condensate drain, at positive pressure" - and what that has to do with blowing cold air into an attic - are concepts I don't understand.

On 2018-06-13 by John R

Are there any special concerns if I add a trap to a secondary condensate drain (positive-pressure)?

I don't want to blow cold air into my unconditioned attic so I trapped the secondary drain. I put a little USB camera inside the duct to watch the water level after the change. I also ran it non-stop for about 2 hours.

As far as I can tell the water level is not rising enough to reach the secondary drain and gravity is feeding the primary drain effectively. I also primed the secondary drain trap with mineral oil which is lighter than water and doesn't evaporate. Do these changes seem risky? Thanks!

On 2017-12-15 - by (mod) -

My OPINION Is the latter interpretation of the two you gave. In all cases the final legal authority on the permissible discharge location for AC Condensate is your local building code official.

In mh opinion also, a condensate discharge that is flush with the wall is a poor design that will continually wet the wall exterior and may cause leaks into the wall.

On 2017-12-15 by Cecil

need interpretation from code 307.2 - states shall not discharge into alley etc so as to cause a nuisance.

Does this mean you can not run the condensation line outside the building going into a dirt alley way or if you can not discharge it if it causes ice to form which it would not due to it is a dirt alley way with gravel which would not cause a nuisance.

Am I correct in my thinking that it is ok to discharge it into a dirt and gravel alley - the discharge pipe does not extend out - it stops right after is goes through the wall. Thanks for any help you can give on this matter.

Question: sorting out mysteries of a clogged condensate drain line

(July 7, 2014) mtarnett1983 said:

We bought a house over a month ago. About 2 weeks in, I noticed a bad smell coming from the duct system.

Then I heard dripping, when I pulled the vents down, I found about an inch of water on the bottom of the floor under the air handler. I wet vacked it and cleaned it up. We then cleaned the coils, wet vacked the primary drain line several times and also poured a water/bleach solution through it.

We had to have Freon added to the a/c. Been cooling fine, but have noticed in the past week, the primary drain running from the air handler to outside of house is not draining any water outside. Three days ago, I found water coming down the edge of the foundation and brick, below the condensate line outside.

We poured water again through the primary drain from the air handler to the outside and it flowed through just fine, but no water will come out that drain from the condensation.

Today, I wet vacked again from the outside and pulled about 3 gallons of water out.

Does anyone have any idea why you can pour water through the line and it flows outside with no problem, but the air conditioning when producing condensation, will not flow through the line but instead, pool at the bottom of the concrete slab of our home below the drain line? Any help would be soooo appreciated!

This is also a gravity fed primary condensate line, it does not have a condensate pump.

One other thing, it does have a secondary line, however, when I found the water pooled below the air handler, it did not flow into the safety switch box, it was all around it. We assume that was from how dirty the coils were. We checked the P-trap and drain pan and did not find any holes in it.

Reply:

The condensate must not be entering the drain line, right?

Reader: mtarnett1983

Right. When we pour water at the top of the drain line inside by the air handler, it flows right on through to the outside of the house.

However, when the a/c is running, as of a week ago, nothing is dripping outside of the drain line and water is coming out of the bottom of our concrete slab foundation. We just wet vacked the drain line outside again and got about 6 gallons of water.

The water coming out by the foundation is just below the primary drain line outside.

Since cleaning it a couple of weeks ago, it was dripping outside just fine. It stopped after we cleaned it one more time about a week ago.

Reply:

Is the condensate pan sloped so that water enters the drain?

Reader: mtarnett1983

Yes. We actually poured water in the pan and it flowed into the hole just fine.

You can also tell that the pan is at a higher point inside the house than where the drain on the outside is. The primary drain flowing outside is about 12" from the ground and the primary drain at the air handler is about 3 feet above the ground. I don't understand why all of a sudden it stopped dripping outside. It was dripping just fine.

My husband also took a string and held it above the primary line under the air handler, I then took the wet vac and went outside and was able to suction the string all the way through to the outside. He said he wanted to try that to see if there was a break in the pvc from the air handler to the outside

Reply:

M

I have on occasion seen droops, loops and sags in flexible condensate drain line installations, particularly in split-system AC installations where the drain runs through ceilings or walls. I had to open a wall and straighten such a line to keep it draining as the loop low points accumulated clogging debris.

Reader: mtarnett1983

This one isn't a flexible drain line though. It is pvc from the air handler to the outside. Maybe a 1" pipe with 3/4" opening? We have a concrete slab. I would assume the pvc is running just above the concrete slab through the house to the outside?

Would it be a bad idea to run a flexible line smaller than the pvc into the drain line starting at the air handler, all the way out of the house?

We were wondering if by doing so, it would drain through that line and bypass the pvc. We know when we vaccum the water from outside it flows out. Does the trap need priming? It's as if though it doesn't have enough pressure to pull it outside. When we pour water through it, it flows right through and goes outside.

Thanks Dan for any help you can provide! We are grasping at straws now.

Reply:

If the pipe is unblocked (run a small snake through it entirely) and properly sloped it should be draining.
If there were a leak in its passage that ought not stop it from draining but rather would show up as a water leak in a wall or ceiling.

Traps don't need priming in a drain line, but it would make sense to be sure that the pan slopes to the drain, that the drain opening is not so covered with water that no air can enter the drain along with water (or it may drain poorly as will any plumbing drain), and also double check that your backup overflow drain or condensate pan switch is working lest you flood the building.

Reader: mtarnett1983

Thanks Dan. The pan is sloped ok. There's no water standing as it drains as soon as we pour water in it.

Do you have any idea why it would just stop dripping? It did it after we cleaned it out the third time with a bleach/water solution.

I guess what you are saying is it could have developed a leak somewhere in the drain line and gravity stops it from flowing outside and it pools just inside the wall of the house? Is that why when we pour water into the drain from the inside, it goes through to the outside fine due to it is a larger amount going through all at once?

Reply:\

Sure. Condensate may stop dripping under these normal conditions

-the AC has stopped running

- the AC continued to run but has successfully lowered the indoor humidity such that little condensation is occurring on the cooling coil.

On 2015-07-09 by (mod) condensate line slope, gfci powering pump trips, Georgia

Slope: 1/8 to 1/4" in 12" of run.

Ask an electrician to check the receptacle. Often GFCI's in damp places will trip. You may want an exception to GFCI code for the pump application.

On 2015-07-09 by Pauol Louden

Twice this summer here in Georgia, the GFI receptacle that supplies power for the condensate pump has tripped. Agreed it's very humid during the summer in Georgia. How do I determine if the receptacle is going bad or the condensate pump is going bad?
My AC is located under the house in the crawl space. Another solution would be to run a drain pipe directly from the AC to the outside.

What slope is required for this?
It bothers me that if I went on vacation during the summer and the receptacle or condensate pump failed leaving humidity to build up inside the house.

Being a former worker in the environmental industry, I know it isn't cheap to remediate mold/mildew.
Please send answer to prorock@friendlycity.net

On 2015-07-05 by (mod) condensate drain should be trapped

The condensate drain should be trapped, Steve.

On 2015-07-05 by Steve

I live in a new ground floor apt. the A/C condinsate drain goes into a floor drain along with two upstairs units , the waste goes into a 4 inch open drain and the pipes go in about 1.5 inches with no air gap.

Is within code? The drain is behind the water heater out of sight so I crawled in and took pictures....

Question: questions why it's not advisable to pump condensate into a sewer drain

(Mar 16, 2014) Anonymous said:

why would a condensate pump line into a drain be a problem when the pump has a check valve which allows no back leakage of gas or water and if the drain ever clogged, it would back up either way anyhow

Reply: Little Giant condensate pump

Interesting question Anon. A great many, possibly more than half HVAC condensate drains do not involve a condensate pump nor any check valves, just gravity operated drains.

I'll be interested to know more about the condensate pump check valve to which you refer and if they are universally present in condensate pump systems and if they are considered adequate to prevent back contamination by both dangerous methane gases and by bacteria who don't have much respect for mechanical devices.

A quick check shows that the Little Giant condensate pump is available with an *optional* extra part - the CV-10 check valve that can be added to the condensate pump itself - it's not an integral part of the condensate pump. The Little Giant VCMX-20ULST does include a check valve.

The Little Giant VCMA Series can accept the add-on check valve provided by the company. So based on just a quick review, it would be incorrect to assume that a check valve is always present and even if present, that it's rated for sanitary concerns.

Question: ok to drain condensate into the roof guttter?

(Mar 23, 2014) Anonymous said:

Is it okay to have the condensation pipe running into the guttering ?

Reply:

Anon,

That's a common practice; whether or not it's ok depends on where the condensate ends-up. If it's running down a foundation wall into a basement or pooling where kids might play in unsanitary water that'd be a concern. If condensate is going to be produced and disposed-of in freezing conditions that may also be a concern. Otherwise, probably fine.

Question: OK to drain condensate into a DWV tub vent?

(May 4, 2014) peanut737 said:

if you run a condensate drainline to a dwv tub vent thats venting to the roof would it be safe to say thats its ok as long as there is a breather T and running trap at the a-coil right off the condensate drain. And what if you also put 1 1/2 trap right before going into the vent.

Reply:

Pea,

My OPINION is that while the volume of HVAC condensate water running down a dry vent is unlikely to cause improper drain performance, in general plumbing codes don't want us to discharge water into a "dry" plumbing vent design.

I surmise you are proposing an air intake that would prevent negative pressure in the air handler from drawing sewer gases back up the condensate drain into the duct system. That sounds to me like someone inventing a solution to a possible problem (sewer gas induction into building air), and it might be a good idea.

But we ought to either research to find that such a solution has already been designed and tested and approved, or we ought to propose that invention and invite expert testing.

I suspect that the occurrence of unsafe back-drafting of sewer gas into the air handler is rare, but that it has occurred enough to raise industry and plumbing code concerns. We might be looking at an uncommon event that we still avoid because should it occur the consequences could be serious.

Traps and vents and air movement that can siphon the trap can subvert its function - that is cause it to run dry and not work as a trap

 

Question: why so much condensate coming out of the system?

(July 8, 2014) Anonymous said:

If the AC is successfully lowering the humidity, why are we wet vaccing several gallons a day out of the drain line outside?

We started wet vaccing again the other day when we noticed so much water was coming out of the bottom of the foundation by the drain outside. Every day we are vaccuming the line several times and getting a total of about 7-10 gallons. We figured it would be better to try and get as much water out of the drain that we can so it doesn't pool behind the outside wall.

Reply:

Agree - I was responding to possible reasons one may not see water coming out of a condensate drain.

In most installations the condensate drain system is not complex. I'd follow the water from its initial location on the cooling coil, into the pan, from the pan to the drain, through the trap, through the condensate drain to outdoors.

Reader:

The bad thing is that the drain line is either installed in the concrete slab or right above it. We would have to either tear down sheet rock to follow it or break up our slab from the bottom of the air intake and then 23 feet to the drain outside.

Reply:

Anon I'm certainly not advocating tearing up a 23 ft slab - by the way the long length of this run is NEW data in this discussion and invites speculation about easily clogged insufficiently sloped condensate drainage.

Before anything so heroic I'd install a separate condensate drain pump to dispose of the condensate without relying on the problematic drain system

Reader:

I appreciate the information! I will research the information about installing a drain pump. Is that a DIY or should we have a professional do that?

Reply:

If you are handy and will read the instructions it's pretty easy.

If the equipment is hard to access, I'd speculate that if the condensate drain, drain pan, etc are not present, or if wiring repair is needed, then in my opinion the original AC installation was incomplete and the installer should finish the job properly.

Question: do vibrations from the air handler cause condensate drain leaks?

8/20/14 Joelzingerman@yahoo,com said:

Our drain is made of PVCpipe. It had a crack and water leaked through the ceiling. they repaired the pipe and this weekend there was another leak onto the second floor ceiling. both AC units are in the attic. a repair man came found a hole in the pipe and installed a new section of pipe.

He went outside . Made a few other joints to the pipe and secured the pipes to the base on which the condensers rest. This does not seem proper to me. Wouldn't vibrations from the running AC possibly loosen the pipes somewhere where we would have further leaks. this is a newAC

Reply:

Joel

I cannot say from just the information in your message what might be improper or not.

I agree that HVAC equipment vibrates.

But it is not common - that is we've not particularly had field reports indicating - to hear of condensate piping leaks from that cause. If the piping is the proper material, properly joined, routed, and supported it should be fine.

Where I"ve seen failures usually they were due to failure to properly prep and glue joints or failure to properly route, slope and support the drain lines. Condensate line blockages are more common than breakage-leaks.

Question: causes of cracked leaky condensate drains: vibrations?

(Aug 20, 2014) Joelzingerman@yahoo,com said:
Our drain is made of PVCpipe. It had a crack and water leaked through the ceiling. they repaired the pipe and this weekend there was another leak onto the second floor ceiling. both AC units are in the attic. a repair man came found a hole in the pipe and installed a new section of pipe.

He went outside . Made a few other joints to the pipe and secured the pipes to the base on which the condensers rest. This does not seem proper to me. Wouldn't vibrations from the running AC possibly loosen the pipes somewhere where we would have further leaks. this is a newAC

Reply:

Joel

I cannot say from just the information in your message what might be improper or not.

I agree that HVAC equipment vibrates. And I agree that depending on the piping material, location, proximity to and connection to vibrating equipment, extent of vibration, piping support details and routing, plastic piping could be cracked by that activity.

But it is not common - that is we've not particularly had field reports indicating - to hear of condensate piping leaks from that cause. If the piping is the proper material, properly joined, routed, and supported it should be fine.

Where I"ve seen failures usually they were due to failure to properly prep and glue joints or failure to properly route, slope and support the drain lines. Condensate line blockages are more common than breakage-leaks.

Question: condensate drain connected to a building shell drain

(Aug 21, 2014) Damon Mitchell said:
Why is it i cannot find anything on the method of taking indoor condensate out of a building to a shell drain?

Reply:

If by shell drain, Damon, you refer to a building exterior wall or shell drain opening such as brick veneer weep openings, that may be a risky business, particularly if the individual weep opening is not correctly flashed, if it becomes blocked, or if the extra volume of water in that location causes a backup and leaks or damage to the structure.

See BRICK WALL DRAINAGE WEEP HOLES

If you are talking about something else please let me know.

Question:

(Aug 22, 2014) Joelzingerman@yahoo.com said:
How do I send you a photo of the outside AC drain pipes

the drains were attached to the plastic base the condensors sit on. I'm concerned about vibrations loosening or cracking the pipes

Reply:

Joe our email is at our CONTACT link found at the page top or bottom of any article

Question: damagbe from condensate ending at a brick wall

(Sept 7, 2014) Martha said:
Will a condensate drain line that terminates at an exterior brick wall cause damage to the wall with the water running down the wall? And is it legal to allow the drainage water from AC to run across the side walk to the street?
Your thoughts will be appreciated.
Thanks

Reply:

(Sept 7, 2014) (mod) said:
Martha the condensate may stain the wall or encourage algae growth but I'm doubtful about "damage" caused uniquely by HVAC condensate unless water is actually penetrating the wall or is soaking an area of soft porous brick that is otherwise not exposed to the weather:

- after all, the wall is also rained-on.

But most communities do not permit HVAC condensate to drain across a sidewalk.

Question: condensate leaking onto slab under home

(Sept 22, 2014) Lucille said:
Is it normal for the condenser to leak and have a puddle of water dripping on to the slab under the unit.

We had mini splits installed and have had the company come back four times.

The upstairs unit was leaking through the siding. They kept coming to insulate. It is also leaking under the condenser and they say its normal. There is usually a large puddle. Please advise. Thank you.

Reply:

Lucille

it sounds as if you are describing either a condensate handling system leak or missing insulation that results in condensate forming on and dripping off of refrigrant piping somewhere in its routing.

Indeed sometimes one must look carefully to find the source of the leak first so that the proper repair can be made.

Question:

(Oct 24, 2014) Martin said:
Is it acceptable to connect the condensate drain line from a condensing furnace to the primary condensate drain line of the AC evaporator coil?

Reply:

It's a common implementation; in fact some condensate pump containers include multiple input openings or knockouts.

Question:

(Jan 21, 2015) Terry Leonard at 861090@comcast.net. said:
show example of condensate drain directly into sewer line with p trap to prevent sewer odor backup.

(Feb 28, 2015) Henry said:
if I have two mini split ac units back to back on a wall - does the condensate line need to be 1.5" or can it share the same 3/4 inch line?

Reply:

Henry you may be fine with a shared condensate line but I don't really know for sure: the answer depends on the anticipated flow rate which depends on the AC unit capacity, indoor humidity levels, and other variables. Check with the manufacturer.

On 2013-03-25 by (mod) -

Mike,

Hmmm. What the heck would be pointing upwards except maybe some kind of vent. Often there are TWO condensate lines, one is the main drain and the second is a backup system coming off oan overflow pan. I can't imagine why either of these would end with an elbow pointing up. Try just turning it down.

On 2013-03-25 by Mike Marinaro , New Jersey

2 condensate drains for central ac run from attic out through soffit to outside 2nd floor gutter. Noticed 1 pvc elbow points down into gutter, but the other points upward at 90 degree angle? Is this correct? Noticed when I was cleaning gutters. Had my roof done a few months ago.

In my mind I always thought they were both pointed down into gutter (but maybe not?). Maybe roofer messed it up? I am notsure. Any comments would be helpful, before I turn unit on in May!

On 2012-12-27 by James Smith

Do condensation PVC Lines have to be grounded? Also where is a drip pan suppose to be? Could it be inside the unit. Contractor charged me for a drip pan but i dont see one outside of the unit?

On 2012-12-21 by Anonymous - is it okay to run the condensate line to a sink and justlet it drain out the sink?

is it okay to run the condensate line to a sink and justlet it drain out the sink?

On 2012-10-09 by Jeff - condensate overflow in our closet HVAC unit

We recently had a condensate overflow in our closet HVAC unit. Ruined floors, baseboards, etc. Had a plumber look into it, and they noticed there was an issue with the condensate pipe. It runs vertical down from the unit, then elbows and runs horizontal to the bathroom.

The elbow coming from vertical is a 45 degree elbow, then to make the pipe connect to the horizontal, there is an actual kink in the PVC pipe! Not sure how that was accomplished.

The house is only 8 years old, and this is the second time there has been an overflow (once with previous owner). It appears that the line was originally installed this way by the builder. I know these lines can get clogged regardless, but I have to believe that a kink in the pipe is of no help. Do we have any recourse with the builder? This installation clearly does not meet code.

On 2012-08-27 by Gary

For the sake of accessibility is it ok to route a main evaporator drain pipe [pwith proper u-bend] into the secondary overflow pan drain just before ir exits the building

On 2012-08-10 by (mod) -

Doug, I think that second opinion should come from someone who has examined the building and who knows about home inspection, wood destroying insects, and so on, right>?

On 2012-08-09 by Doug

Homeowner concern about insects invading below slab level where the A/C condensation conduit has been run; beneath monolithic slab footing. Have you dealt with that concern. HO would like a second opinion. Regards

On 2012-08-03 by Jerry

drain pipe leaking inside furnace

On 2012-07-21 by (mod) -

Sounds reasonable

On 2012-07-21 by fred johnson

condensate water does not flow, we have blown the line clear

On 2012-07-10 by (mod) - Send condensate into the plumbing vent line?

Bill,

Bill another reason experts object to draining condensate to the plumbing vent is the vacuum created at the condensate drain port inside the air handler when the blower is operating. If your air gap design reliably prevents any possible backdrafting of sewer gases into the building conditioned air, your particular installation may "work" but over time and many installations, enough problems have arisen that that approach is not recommended in the model codes except:

If discharged into the drainage system equipment shall drain by means of an indirect waste pipe. The waste pipe shall have a slope of not less than 1/8 inch per foot (10.5 mm/m) or one percent slope and shall be of approved corrosion-resistant material not smaller than the outlet size as required in either Section 310.3 or 310.4 below for air-cooling coils or condensing fuel-burning appliances, respectively.

"Indirect waste pipe" seems to refer to the "air gap" that you cite.

On 2012-07-10 by (mod) - how do I post a picture on here?

Debbie we would be very glad to see photos you can contribute to InspectApedia, and if helpful to our readers we'll add such photos and credit the contributor (or keep her anonymous if she prefers). Just use the CONTACT US link found at the top or bottom of any of InspectApedia web page.

On 2012-07-03 by Debbie

how do I post a picture on here?

On 2012-01-31 by Bill

If you put a trap in and a air gap can you have the condensation go into the plumbing vent

On 2011-12-06 by karen

We have a hybrid system with a heat pump and a variable speed gas furnace. Recently, we had a leak near the furnace from a blocked condensate drain from particulate matter, according to the technician. He also said we had some freezing.

Our condensate exits first down into the crawl space then outside. He is recommending a condensate pump that drains into our washer, is this a good idea or necessary, or is this just a way to make money? We have had this system for a few years without problems.

On 2011-10-18 by Tammy

We want to replace our furnace ( located in the basement) with a high efficiency one and are getting really confused by the different estimates that we've gotten. Our basement does not have a sump pump or a utility tub to drain the condensate into.

One person said it could be routed through the wall to the outside, another said that that's no good because it will freeze ( we're in the Phila PA area) He suggested that we get a plumber in to install a trap between two pipes. Second guy said that we can't direct outside or to a drain line so our only option would be an 80% furnace.

Third guy said that it could be routed through the wall because it wouldn't be exposed (length wise)enough on the outside to freeze. We can't seem to get a consensus on how this should be handled. All three companies were recommeneded to us by friends. I don't know how to get this resolved.

On 2011-09-25 by Chris Byrne

Are you sure that it isn't the secondary drain that is leaking onto the roof?

On 2011-08-26 by (mod) - the rate of condensate production depends on

Anon the rate of condensate production depends on a lot of variables as we've listed in several articles: building size, air leaks, air flow rate across the cooling coil, cooling coil temperature, etc.

But the first determinant of condensate production is the humidity of the air being cooled. If the humidity indoors goes up your air conditioner will produce more condensate.

If you see absoutely no condensate dripping out of a condensate drain but the indoor air is cool, it may be that the indoor humidity is low. Of course you may want to check for leaks and clogs at the condensate drip tray and piping, too.

On 2011-08-25 by Anonymous

when should the condensate line/drain discharge

On 2011-08-25 by Julie

Thanks so much for the help!

On 2011-08-24 by (mod) - common practice for A/C condensate from an upper-story air handler to be routed outside

Julie it's common practice for A/C condensate from an upper-story air handler to be routed outside, down the wall, to ground level. Often the pipe is routed in parallel to the insulated refrigeration lines and all of them are disguised inside of a section or two of aluminum downspout.

If it's easier to drip into a gutter that should be ok too provided you keep the gutter drain itself from being clogged.

The presumption is that in cold weather (if you're in a freezing climate) the A/C system won't be running so a freeze problem is not a worry.

Because you are ONLY talking about routing a plastic pipe from an existing condensate drain, you don't have to employ an A/C specialist; it's a plumbing job.

Just be sure the drain is properly pitched and routed to keep draining so you don't have a backup indoors.

On 2011-08-24 by Julie

We have a condensate drain that is located on the outside of the house under the building eave of the second story. It has caused water to splash along the side of the house causing a big rust stain (which we will have to get re-painted). Besides keeping the a/c pans clean, what is the best way to prevent this from happening again?

Could a long pipe be connected down the side of the house? Does the pipe need to be relocated so that it comes out of the roof to drip into the gutter? What kind of contractor would do this work - an a/c guy or a builder? Thanks!

On 2011-07-24 by (mod) -

Yes Wayne, that's a good guess - a leak in the drip tray; I also sometimes see the blower fan pushing air fast enough across the cooling coil that it also blows droplets of water into the ductwork - depending on duct layout, angles, slopes, that could be a second source of water dripping down into the heat exchanger.

I'd sure try cleaning a drip tray hole and patching with expoxy before replacing the whole thing. Good idea.

On 2011-07-22 by Wayne Rife

I have a customer who has water dripping from above the furnace heat exchanger. I checked the drain and it is unblocked. Could the drip tray rust a hole through it? Causing water to drip down inside the heat exchanger and to the floor. Would the correct procedure be to cut just below the A coil to gain access to the drip tray and inspect it. Would you use metal epoxy to seal and holes or cracks?

On 2011-07-06 by (mod) -

Indeed we've seen some severe building damage including ruined floors and even extensive mold contamination when A/C condensate leaked into the building floors or walls. In addition to fixing the condensate leak you'll want to inspect carefully to see where water went in the building and whether further cleanup is appropriate.

On 2011-06-30 by condo heat pump

Noticed that wood floors were curling, which caused me to open up and inspect my old EnerCon heat pump (model VW 26) and saw water covering the bottom of the unit about 2 inches deep. There is no drain in the bottom of the unit, but there is an internal 3/4" hose from the upper radiator looking piece to an external connection and hose marked "Drain"

. I am assuming that somewhere in these hose sections there is a blockage. Will try to unscrewing the connection and see if can use a wet/dry vac to create enough suction to clean it out. Any other suggestions/corrections?

On 2011-06-16 by (mod) -

Anon: re: "We are concerned that the underside of the air handler is producing an excessive amount of moisture" - the amount of condensate produced by a cooling system is principally determined by the level of moisture in the air that it is cooling. Warmer air holds more moisture than cool air; so the hotter and more moist your incoming air is, the more condensate that will be produced. More condensate production is not likely to be a sign of something wrong with the A/C system.

However if you are seeing a condensate leak or condensate appearing anywhere but at the condensate drain, then there is indeed a problem, perhaps a clogged condensate drain line - something you'll want to fix to avoid damage to the equipment or the building.

You can replace your condensate bucket (that requires manually emptying) with an inexpensive condensate pump that receives condensdate from the system and pumps it up to a nearby drain or to another acceptable disposal location.

On 2011-06-16

by Anonymous

The air handler is producing excesive condensationwater which is dripping into the drip tray under the air handler suspended in the garage attic. The water is passing through the drip pipe which is not directed to the outside but passes through the garage ceiling to just drip on the the garage floor into a bucket.

We are concerned that the underside of the air handler is producing an excessive amount of moisture. Please advise. Thank you.

On 2011-06-12

by HVAC

What I've done when the drain is up high is to run the drain pipe down to a french drain dug away from your house. Cut the pipe so you can install the 90 elbow and then whatever length of pipe is needed to reach the french drain and fasten the drain pipe to the brick. You can find information on the web on how to dig a french drain. I hope this helps.

On 2011-06-08

by Need suggestions...

I recently moved my condensate line from its previous connection point (the sewer vent pipe in the attic) and extended it through the side of the house. The pipe now extends through my brick exterior wall about 7 inches and has a 90 elbow to keep water from wicking up the pipe to the wall. The pipe is about 8-9 feet above ground level. My problem is that a lot of water comes out of this pipe and it is saturating the ground beneath the pipe.

Some splashing on to the brick wall at ground level also occurs. I figured there has to be a "better way" of handling the outflow? Anyone have any suggestions? I thought about digging a hole where the water drops to the ground and filling it with gravel. Or, something like a mini septic system for the AC. Am I crazy?

On 2011-05-23

by Anonymous

Thank you. BB

...

Continue reading at CONDENSATE DRAINS, CODES or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see CONDENSATE DRAIN FAQs-2 - more-recent questions and answers on handling condensate drainage

Or see these

HVAC Condensate Articles

• CONDENSATE HANDLING, HVAC - home
  • CONDENSATE LEAKS
  • CONDENSATE PUMPS
  • CONDENSATE DISPOSAL, IMPROPER
  • CONDENSATE DRAINS, CODES
  • CONDENSATE DRAIN CLEAN & DE-CLOG
  • CONDENSATE DRAIN INSULATION REQUIREMENTS
  • CONDENSATE DRAIN PROBLEMS
  • CONDENSATE DRIP TRAY DEFECTS
  • CONDENSATE PAN SWITCH LOCKOUT
  • Legionella BACTERIA & HVAC EQUIPMENT
  • CONDENSING BOILER/FURNACE CONDENSATE DRAIN

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