A/C condensate drain de-clog & cleanout: this how-to article explains procedures for cleaning or de-clogging a sluggish, blocked, or leaky air conditioning or heat pump condensate drain.
Condensate drain cleaning and unclogging tools and methods are reviewed, including simple steps that a homeowner can take to clear a blocked condensate drain at little or no cost.
InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.
- Daniel Friedman, Publisher/Editor/Author - See WHO ARE WE?
These questions & answers about de-clogging blocked A/C or heat pump condensate traps or drain lines were posted originally
at CONDENSATE DRAIN CLEAN & DE-CLOG - be sure to review th advice given there.
Illustration: All-Access condensate drain line cleanout device, MSD Research, Inc., Boca Raton, discussed in the article linked-to just above.
@John W.,
Short answer:
Your HVAC or AC unit condensate should be trapped close to the unit
Typically a condensing tankless water heater doesn’t require a condensate trap (American cited below)
Sharing a drain downstream MIGHT work depending on condensate drain material, size, capacity, routing, etc.
Details: -----
Your A/C condensate line should be trapped right at the air conditioner or heat pump - usually at the condensate drip pan connection to the condensate drain. That's to primarily avoid the risk of sewer gases backflowing up into the unit as can occur in some drain disposal circumstances.
Sharing a condensate drain downstream from the AC unit MIGHT be OK provided its capacity is not exceeded and of course that the condensate drain is installed to drain to an acceptable location (such as outdoors, not onto a sidewalk etc) and terminates where it won't be blocked by snow, shrubbery, etc.
But a trap at the heater is probably required.
Because typically the installation instructions for a condensing tankless water heater include this statement:
Vertical terminations must incorporate a condensate drain and trap as close as possible to the appliance.
Also, about that shared drain idea,
Some condensate products might be too hot for the piping used for an HVAC condensate drain - such as that thinwall flexible plastic tubing found at many installations, (condensate from a condensing tankless water heater is at about 38C or about 100F) but standard PVC pipe, if that's what was used for the drain, should be OK.
I've not found a requirement for insect screens on those outlets and in fact there may be a concern that such screens risk drain clogging and backups.
It would be helpful to know the brand and model of your condensing-type tankless water heater so that together we could consult its installation instructions.
Meanwhile COMPARE these example instructions that discuss proper condensate drainage for a condensing tankless water heater:
RHEEM NON-CONDENSING TANKLESS WATER HEATER INSTALLATION MANUAL [PDF]
Excerpt: DO NOT operate without the condensate trap connected to the vent and routed to the proper drain. (p. 3)
---
AMERICAN COMMERCIAL CONDENSING TANKLESS WATER HEATER INSTALLATION MANUAL [PDF]
Excerpt: The condensate drain does not require a trap. (p. 32)
For other readers: what's the difference between a conventional tankless water heater and a condensing tankless water heater?
The conventional gas-fueled tankless water heater produces hot exhaust that also contains acidic moisture from the combustion process, and has to be vented through a corrosion-resistant chimney.
A condensing gas-fueled tankless water heater recaptures much of the heat that would have gone up the flue, uses it to help heat the domestic hot water, and produces a much-cooler exhaust and condensate that is typically vented through PVC piping to the exterior.
A condensing gas-fueled tankless water heater would be expected to operate at a greater overall fuel efficiency than a comparable non-condensing unit.
On 2022-08-23 by John W.
I recently had a condensing tankless water heater installed I’m trying to determine the proper way to deal with condensate.
I have direct access to an exterior wall, and the condensate from my HVAC (right next to the water heater) in fact already had its own condensate drain running outside.
That HVAC drain runs right beneath where the water heater is hanging, and the water heater condensate line is now hard-piped straight down and into the line so that the condensate runs outside without a trap or vent.
Is this okay? The water heater condensate line is 3/4” and so is the existing HVAC condensate line, so maybe that needs to be replaced with 1” at the very least.
This is in a ground level garage. There’s no floor drain, but the washer standpipe is not far away. From what I can tell, both local code (IPC 2018) and the water heater install guide only say that the condensate line needs an air gap.
And the typical application in the install guide only shows this line running to a floor drain, and of course includes an air gap.
I’m thinking the water heater condensate line may need to just run a short distance and drop into a funnel or something, which then continues straight down and connects to the line out.
Alternatively, should this line have a vent just after it exits the water heater and possibly a small trap before it joins the main line out to keep insects out?
It’s also possible that this install is totally legit, and the air gap requirement is fulfilled by the gap between the ground and the down pipe outside the house.
I’m not sure if this is relevant to the answer, but the water heater has a neutralizer built in so that shouldn’t be an issue either way.
On 2022-06-21 by InspectApedia-911 (mod)
@Tom P.,
Thank you for the discussion. I don't quite understand the last suggestion - perhaps you could make a sketch.
On 2022-06-21 by Tom P.
@InspectApedia , thank you the advice. I was afraid that would be the recommendation. I would explore the route of re-install, but there just isn't enough space in my closet ceiling.
I think the builder cramped as much into that small space to save money. What about using a condensate trap and using the positive pressure to force the water to the condensate outlet?
On 2022-06-21 by InspectApedia (mod) - condensation has been leaking from the drip pan
@Tom P.,
When the AC condensate drain entry point is higher than the condensate drip pan outlet you have to either use a condensate pump - which is what I'd do - or disassemble and re-install the whole AC/Heat system to raise it so that it can drain by gravity.
Sorry but I don't know another reliable solution.
Water doesn't flow uphill, and if you tried raising the sides of a condensate pan to get condensate level high enough to drain by gravity alone, you're building a breeding ground for dangerous bacteria or Legionnaire's disease in the condensate that stays in the lower part of the pan.
On 2022-06-21 by Tom P.
I've been having problem with my fan coil unit for a few years now. The AC/Heat works fine. The problem is the water from condensation has been leaking from the drip pan.
Originally, I think the builder had connected the drain pan on the left direct to the drain outlet, but the pan is lower than the outlet.
So the home builder decided to install a condensation pump, but over time the pump would malfunction due to the corrosive water.
I want to find a permanent solution where I can connect pvc pipe and have the water drain out to the outlet. Any suggestion. Attached is the picture.
On 2022-06-02 by InspectApedia-911 (mod) - ensure proper condensate tubing routing
@Hy,
IMO, Sure that can work, provided the tubing carrying condensate to the drain is routed such that it passes above the flood rim of the sink. Think of it as similar to a dishwasher installation.
The requirement for the air gap on a dishwasher (you could use the same device) is to prevent accidental siphon of the trap as well as to prevent backflow of drain water into the draining appliance (dishwasher or condensate pump).
On 2022-06-02 by Hy
I'm preparing to install a DIY mini split on the back wall of my garage which is an interior wall. Fortunately there's a utility sink directly below it.
I know I can install a condensate drain with air gap above the sink but it doesn't look very elegant to me. I wondered if my alternative idea would be an acceptable solution?
Since the wall is interior I'll build a shallow (about 6" deep) soffit at the top of the wall that will be the same dimensions as the air handler which will mount on the front.
This way my line set can be routed hidden up into the attic above and run to an adjacent wall which is exterior and pass through to the outside. Naturally this type of installation precludes running the condensate drain up with the line-set.
So my idea is to install a 3/4" PVC pipe vertically inside the wall and connect it at the top and bottom with 5/8" adapters. These will allow me to attach clear vinyl tubing that will tie in to the air handler at the top and exit the wall at bottom just below the sink. A short length of clear vinyl tubing will complete the connection to the P-trap.
In order to facilitate the connection to the sink I plan to use a sink drain pipe with an integrated male angled tube connector (same as used in kitchens to connect a garbage disposal). See attached pic for mock-up.
The sink will be used daily so there's little chance for the water to evaporate and allow for sewer gases. I'm still searching for a check valve that only allows the water to run down and put but stops potential gases from migrating up as a backup but so far no luck.
It's this an acceptable install?
Thanks for your help...
On 2022-01-17 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator - follow glue and primer manufacturer instructions
@jacinto raquel,
The closest to building code specifications that you will get for the question you post is the general requirement to install materials following the manufacturer's instructions. In this case, that means read the instructions on the label of the glue being used and on the primer being used. If you're getting PVC pipe joint failures most often that's from improper prepping.
Above on this page, and in the list of Recommended Articles found just at the article end, you will find our series of detailed articles specifying condensate drain piping and routing, requirements for a trap, the materials, and they drain condensate destination. Please take a look.
On 2022-01-17 by jacinto raquel
what is the code for the primer used for gluing pvc schdule 40 pipe for refrigeration evaporators in a 36 degree cooler? what is connection from the evaporator condensate pan to the pvc drain line and what is the material required?
On 2021-10-01 by inspectapedia.com.moderator - how far away can I install condensate p-trap?
@Sean Marlow,
I looked earlier today for an authoritative answer and my research is incomplete.
I have found and will cite the sources of installation instructions prescribing locating the effect condensate drain trap quite distant from the appliance itself.
An example that you will see in some installation instructions used for equipment that is draining through an appropriately sloped drain line with no trap whatsoever down into a condensate pump that in turn pumps condensate to the disposal point.
An example is this VENT-EXHAUST EXTERNAL TRAP INSTRUCTIONS [PDF] posted by Questar Gas
On 2021-09-30 by Sean Marlow
How far away from a florida heat pump can I install the condensate p-trap. Working on a school and they love high ceilings. The unit hung as high as possible, 11'-4" at bottom of unit and finished ceiling height is at 11'-0".
ThIs barely leaves me 3" to work with and that is not enough for proper trap depth and insulation.
I want to know if it is ok to run 6', sloped of course, out from the unit before putting in the trap. This would allow me to run from the hall where the unit and 11' ceiling is to areas where the ceiling is 10' and continue to where drain terminates.
On 2021-06-03 by (mod) - is condensate drain piping insulation required?
@Amy,
Thank you for a helpful question.
Please find your question repeated along with a detailed reply now at
CONDENSATE DRAIN INSULATION REQUIREMENTS
On 2021-06-03 by Amy
My company recently changed out all the hvac equipment at an apartment complex.
The complex is now owned by a new owner and he has contacted us about why we didn't insulate the condensate drain lines that are inside the return air in an air conditioned space.
We live in Texas and I can't find a clear answer on if that is required or not. Does anyone have any information about this topic?
On 2021-04-29 by (mod) - Condensate Removal Pump for a hybrid water heater
@Jack Mc.,
The company Little Giant makes a wide variety of pumps including condensate pumps, pony pumps, and others;
Let's not mix apples and oranges here.
If you are making use of a water heater - to produce domestic hot water used for washing and bathing - water flowing through the heater is pushed by building water pressure, from a municipal supply or from a well water pump or a pressure booster pump.
For those pump purposes, no condensate removal pump would be suitable. IT couldn't handle the volume, nor the flow rate, nor the duty cycle.
DO NOT send a larger-diameter condensate drain outlet into a smaller-sized pipe: there's risk of blockage, overflow, etc.
On 2021-04-29 by Jack Mc.
I have a question regarding the use of a Condensate Removal Pump for a hybrid water heater.
Can I use a little giant type condensate pump with 3/4 into the pump, and 3/8 out of it?
The only code I have found (Oregon) regarding condensate removal is in the mechanical code (which usually applies to HVAC) and this line is making me question whether the pump's output can in fact be less than 3/4":
"307.2.2 Condensate drain piping materials can be "... cast iron, galvanized polybutylene, polyethylene, ABS, CPVC or PVC pipe or tubing"
Piping shall be at least 3/4" in diameter and ... shall not decrease in size ... [throughout its run from the condensate drain pan to its final disposal destination - no constructions by diameter]"
Thank you!
On 2021-03-20 by (mod) - use an Appliance Wye to connect a condensate drain to an existing washing machine standpipe or other drain
@V.F.G., usually there's no problem sharing that drain between condensate vent and washing machine;
Both require an air gap - which you have, and neither should be overwhelming a properly-sized, un-blocked drain.
The rub may come if the standpipe diameter is too small to admit both the washer drain and the clip holding the condensate drain at the same time.
You'd fix that by either having your plumber install an appliance wye in the standpipe (I show a typical one - the Canplas 212321W Appliance Wye - as widely sold including at Amazon - below) or by pumping your condensate to another drain destination.
On 2021-03-20 by V.F.G.
Hey, so we recently brought a house in MA and have come across this: the HVAC is connected to a standpipe for a washer via a tube.
We dont know what to do but there was no washer and dryer when we moved in to the house. We did not discover this until we brought a washer. Please let us know anything we can do because we need the washer. Thank you
On 2021-02-08 by (mod) - loud eyesore condensate system?
So "loud" perhaps you are talking about a condensate pump that collects condensate from a heat pump or high efficiency heating appliance and pumps it up to a drain
. Those are not usually very noisy; check for malfunction, for mounting on padding, for alternative models, for relocation to a more remote spot that can still pump up to the necessary drain.
On 2021-02-08 by Kelli
It’s a new build. Just curious. It’s loud, an eyesore. We live in Mesa, AZ.
Obviously, I need to ask the builder why he didn’t use the sink in the laundry room.
On 2021-02-08 by (mod) - Can the condensation drain pipe be located behind a washer in the laundry room?
Kelli I need to understand more details of the situation - but in general the answer is sure - properly-connected.
Certainly there is no conceptual constraint on where a condensate drain can be located, but it has to be in a location that works either by gravity or by a condensate drain pump.
It's often permitted but not the best solution to simply drip condensate into the laundry sink.
On 2021-02-08 by Kelli
Can the condensation drain pipe be located behind a washer in the laundry room?
I inspected a home earlier today and they had the AC condensate drainage into the (previous) laundry drainage. It's not directly into the sewage line but I was wondering if there's still an issue of sewage gasses backing into the home. There's a p-trap.
It appears that this condensate drain only drops into that vertical standpipe an inch or two and if there is still a decent opening around it to let air into the standing drain line then you got an air gap between the end of the condensate drain and the P-trap below so it should be okay.
Watch out: But as you'll see from the annotations on your photo there are some other questions here, including a water heater TPR valve safety concern and possible leaks into the return air duct system. .
See also TUNDISH used in PLUMBING
On 2020-09-09 by (mod) - primary condensate drain had been capped off with no outlet.
Not illegal but does sound as if there was a problem with the condensate drain system
On 2020-09-09 0 by Rocky
My a/c in my apartment was under performing , so I took a look at the F.A.U. closet. I saw what the problem was, ( under charged or line blockage).
But, what also I noticed was that the primary condensate drain had been capped off with no outlet.
The secondary drain had a wet switch installed in the outlet port.
My question is: Is it in violation of building or installation codes to not have a condensate drain line? My unit was cycling on and off even though it never reached the temperature setting on the thermostat, I suspect this was the wet switch's doing
On 2020-09-09 by (mod) - terminate a condensate line from an interior air handler to a washer stand pipe
Yes with proper air gap
On 2020-09-03 by Dave
Can you terminate a condensate line from an interior air handler to a washer stand pipe
On 2020-08-20 by Pat H.
Are there currently any plumbing codes that prevent A/C condensate from being used for toilet flushing? An English company developed a toilet tank several years ago that uses both condensate and potable water for flushing.
I have to imagine that with A/C being so much more common in the US, the only reason something similar hasn't been developed or adapted for use here is because it isn't allowed.
On 2020-07-24 by Jayson T
I just had a furnace and cooling coil installed in my attic area. For the primary condensate drain the installer piped 3/4" pvc into a condensate pump, which will discharge into a nearby vanity sink prior to the trap via 3/8" vinyl plastic tubing.
For the secondary drain system he installed a wet switch within the pan below the unit which will turn the unit off upon water detection.
Is this an acceptable form of condensate drainage? I worry about relying on the condensate pump and flexible tubing as the primary drain source vs. a hard piped system into the homes plumbing.
On 2020-05-18 by (mod) - overflow drip pan can be capped off provided that there is a water sensor switch
David
The overflow drip pan can be capped off provided that there is a water sensor switch installed that will shut down the AC system if the pan receives condensate water.
On 2020-05-17 by David
Does Texas code require an attic AC drip pan to be be attached to a drain line or is it acceptable for the drain line to be capped off?
On 2020-05-14 by (mod) - warranty company will not cover modification to my condensate drain line
Daria
I want to help but am stymied: the decision to include or not the actual drain line as part of the condensate pump system is going to be in the tiny mind and hands of the insurance company's adjuster department.
My "guess" is that the reason those pumps are excluded is an effort to avoid leak and mold damage liability.
My OPINION is that the pump itself - the container and motor, sold as a unit - is separable from the drain piping or tubing.
My opinion also is that the cost of tubing or plastic drain lines for a condensate pipe is trivial, just a few dollars, and perhaps not worth your time arguing with your warranty company.
On 2020-05-14 by Daria
My warranty company will not cover modification to my condensate drain line because the "items not covered" in my contract list the condensate pump."
Are these considered the same item or are the pump and lines two different items?
Thank you for your help with this matter.
On 2020-01-16 by (mod) - placing an air handler on top of mason bricks sitting inside the drip tray proper installation procedure?
Gerard
The manufacturer of your air handler is the final authority on this installation detail but in my OPINION while it's common to see an air handler set into a drain pan on wood and sometimes other materials, a rubber anti-vibration pad would be a better practice for two reasons:
1. vibration transmission to the building framing (if the unit is installed on a wood frame floor or ceiling) will make the unit noisier than necessary
2. vibration combined with condensation (and perhaps actual condensate) between the brick surface and the metal housing of the air handler invites corrosion and over a longer term, damage to the unit
A vibration isolating pad such as the Wagner MP-6E EVA Anti-Vibration Pad 6x6 Inch Square by 7/8 Inch Thick pad shown below is a better practice.
On 2020-01-15 by Gerard Russo
Is placing an air handler on top of mason bricks sitting inside the drip tray proper installation procedure? Or should the air handler be seated on rubber be seated on rubber bushings?
On 2019-08-05 by (mod) - problems with flexible condensate drains run through walls
Bob,
In new HVAC condensate drain installation when the drain is run through framed walls, use of a flexible plastic drain line is common - as shown in the photo I'll attach below and as is described further at inspectapedia.com/aircond/Condensate_Drain_Problems.php
However in my OPINION a better installation uses rigid PVC pipe, properly sloped 1/8" to 1/4" per foot. I often find that the flexible condensate drain tubing is not carefully installed nor supported to maintain drainage slope throughout its run.
The result is the accumulation of dust, debris, algae or mold in a dip in the drain that leads to clogging and potentially to a backup and leak of condensate out at the air handler.
In the photo the white flexible condensate drain tubing is being routed down from above where a split system A/C unit is to be hung on the wall. The drain drops down then runs out through the wall to the building exterior where it drains onto a roof and thence into a gutter and downspout system if not totally evaporated.
The red oval and line mark a critical point where nail plates must be installed to protect the drain line from puncture by future drywall screws or nails.
The black tubing in the photo is actually foam insulated refrigerant piping.
Bob, continuing
Here is Diversitech's 5/8" flexible AC condensate drain tubing - sold at Home Depot and at HVACR suppliers and plumbing suppliers
On 2019-08-05 by Bob
What type of piping or tubing is used for condensation drainage inside a wall on an inside unit of a split unit
On 2015-06-24 by (mod) - wiring wet by condensate may be unsafe
If electrical wiring is wet from any source the result can be damage and unsafe conditions.
On 2015-06-24 by gwen
Can water from clogged ac drain damage the furnace wires
On 2015-05-09 by (mod) - where is the condensate drain hole?
Donna
In the article CONDENSATE DRAIN CLEAN & DE-CLOG l see several locations at which condensate drains connect to the HVAC equipment - the exact location varies by model and installation.
On 2015-05-07 by donna
where is the drain hole on ac unit?
(May 13, 2011) Chris Nallie-Courtney said: Thank you! This was very helpful. I was able to clean out my drain line myself.
(June 22, 2011) w.m.cutler said: very educational,did all the work myself,replaced trap and cleanout 3/4 pvc,used air and shop vac. system fine now.
(Sept 25, 2011) Rana said:
Thanks so much! I was able to clean out the drain myself rather than take off work to wait for the A/C tech to come out. And I'm happy to know more about the upkeep of my own home.
(June 20, 2014) Linda Vereen said: Learned so much from your site. What a great service you provide.
Love that you post pictures and details, it makes it easy to understand.
thank You
(July 4, 2014) Rance said: Thank you so much for posting the info, etc. on ac condinsate line cleaning and the "proven" options.
Tools that you have tried and recommend. Happy and safe 4th of July to you and yours.
(May 1, 2014) Tom Kolter said:
You should check out the Jones Valve, too, available at Supco and Watso, United Refrigeration and Johnstone, the latter two as "Line Drive".
(June 23, 2011) Ma Neumann said:
A neighbor in my condo tells me that our #1 problem with the AC is water clogs--when the condensate drain's slope is too great, he says, the water rushes down the pipe and clogs up all by itself, sort of like a vacuum. I can't find any references to water clogs on the Internet.
Everything I see about clogs uses terms like sludge, dirt, debris--solid material, not vacuums. Please educate me.
Ma Neumann:
Your neighbor's explanation makes no sense to me at all. What clogs A/C condensate lines is typically crud (dust, debris, rust flakes from inside the air handler) that collect in the condensate line trap, or at the condensate drip pan opening that feeds into the condensate line.
Excessive slope is a problem on drain lines on SEWER piping (black water, toilet waste) because if the slope is excessive the water can rush down the drain line leaving solids behind to clog the piping. But on a condensate drain line there is no sewage and no solid waste.
(July 22, 2011) Frank said:
I noticed leakage in my ceiling after a technician rewired my brand new conditioner to run at a higher fan speed which forced more air into my house. Made sense and now feels cooler. a few hours later is when I noticed the water leak.
I went into the attic and can see that there is water in the catch tray but the kicker is that there is a small hole a couple of millimeters round at the end of the tray allowing the water to leak out into the insulation down the roof into my plaster ceiling. What in the world is a hole doing in my catch tray?
(Oct 23, 2011) Anonymous said:
try a diyvac wet vac attachment to unclog the drain line .The attachment fits on the wet vac and drain line perfectly and takes a couple of minutes to unclog once vacuum is turned on.
(May 31, 2012) jay said:
water is coming out the top of my ac furnace
Jay, if your unit's condensate drain pan has begun to leak, or if its drain is clogged, those would cause the leakage at the air handler as you described. There should be a removable panel to give view inside the unit to see the condition of the drain pan itself.
Watch out: water leaks onto a heating furnace heat exchanger can cause rust and dangerous heat exchanger leaks - risking carbon monoxide poisoning.
(June 26, 2012) Remo said:
Hello, it looks like my condensate drain goes directly from the ac unit down to a nearby bathroom sink and connect to the p trap. there is no way to pour bleach suck with a wet vac. when the AC kicks on, there is a horrible gorgle sound out of our bathroom sink, how can i fix that?
Remo, it sounds as if the drain tubing needs to be disconnected and cleaned.
Follow-up
Dan, i think you are right, but how do we disconnect it? at what point, mid way? at the AC
Reply:
I'd start by trying to get inside the air handler (power off) to find the opening into the drain, and to brush clear the trap if one is present.
(July 7, 2012) M12451 said:
My ac runs but water fills up at the bottom where the condensation pump is located, I not sure what do. Can someone with good expertise please advise.
Thanks Not a HOT Summer
M
It sounds as if either the condensate pump switch or the pump itself needs replacement
But first be sure the condensate pump is plugged in and has electrical power
(July 17, 2012) Ann Borg said:
Our condensate line backed up causing a wet drywall and ceiling....because the builder was too cheap to install an over flow valve. It has been corrected and all of the information on your website was excellent. Thank you.
Ann, sorry to read of the condensate backup - but what "flow valve" are you referring to? It is common to drain condensate by gravity when possible, and it is also not uncommon for the condensate drain trap or line to clog with lint and crud - it's a maintenance item. Can you tell us what valve you mean? Do you mean a condensate overflow tray sensor switch?
(July 27, 2012) Jennifer said:
Hi Our 2 units have only one drain line and it seems to leak. What is the code that each line should have their own independent line?
Jennifer, none that I know about. But the condensate drain does need to be large enough to handle the condensate flow rate without backing up; if your condensate line is leaking I suspect either it is clogged or there are improperly made leaky connections.
So if one has this issue, do I call an HVAC technician or a plumber?
Start with your HVAC tech. who may have just the right sized tools to clear the condensate line clog. But some problems such as a clogged condensate line or a broken condensate pump are within the scope of others such as a plumber, handyman, and many homeowners.
(Aug 25, 2012) Rich said:
I noticed yesterday that there was water coming through the ceiling and suspected it was the A/C unit.
When I got into the attic there was no water in the drip pan or any evidence that it had been wet, and the drain lines were not clogged (did the water/bleach test and drained properly).
I opened up the unit which held the refrig evap and that inside drip pan was full and I suspect overflowed into box where the ducting is connected. The liner is soaked as well as one ducting had a puddle of water. This is where the damage to the ceiling came from.
Do I have a bad refrig evap unit or bad drip pan inside? My first thoughts were we just recently had a lot of humidity and the drip pan couldn't keep up... Thoughts? Thank you!
(Sept 9, 2012) Samantha said:
I'm noticing water dripping from the bottom of our air handler onto the floor (1st story, closet installation). I'd like to clean out the drain pipe as I'm guessing there is a clog, but there isn't any access point - should I just attach a wet vac to the outside pipe and vacuum it out? Our house came with a heil unit and I can't find anywhere to even open it up to view the drain pan itself.
To answer this we need to look at the drip pan to see if it's clogged, rusted, perforated, leaking, overflowing, or if there is a problem with the condensate drain piping. Start at the unit.
Tom Kolter said:
You should check out the Jones Valve, too, available at Supco and Watso, United Refrigeration and Johnstone, the latter two as "Line Drive".
(July 13, 2014) Altin said:
the top ac drainage is leaking, also the bottom. what is the risk and what should I do?
Altin
The risk is water damage to the equipment - depending on where condensate is flowing; other risks include mold or other water damage, or bacterial contamination such as Legionnaire's disease.
YOu want the condensate pan fixed if it's leaking, the drain un-clogged and flowing.
Re-posting a reader's comment without disallowed link:
Stuart said:
Never Cut Or Pull Apart Drain Lines once the ALL-ACCESS AA1 is installed.
It provides easy access to clear and maintain drain lines using any method.
Please take a look at allaccessdevice dot com to learn how it works and where it is sold.
Stuart refers to a fitting that is added to the condensate drain to permit drain line cleaning by attaching compressed air, refrigerant, or possibly a vacuum.
Watch out: this fitting and its use may be inappropriate for condensate drains connected to plumbing system piping. - Ed.
26 Dec 2014
to editor
I have a concern about biased product placement in the above article.
Thanks to reader Stuart Oakner for suggesting additional discussion of the Mighty Pump as a less costly way to clear blocked air conditioning or heat pump condensate drains than calling the HVAC service technician.
But, he is the owner & salesman behind both the Mighty Pump and the All-access device. There should be an editorial policy of not allowing product inventors/sales reps or whatever to influence the placement of their own products whether they're professionals or not, at least not without an explicit disclosure.
You can see his affiliation here [references deleted for privacy] - I.H.S. [email on fiile]
Thank you for informing us of this. It's a first to have been surprised with a sneak product placement. We will review and edit the document accordingly. Perhaps you could also identify yourself?
Reader follow-up:
I came from another web forum and noticed this guy show up and started pitching his product using third person voice. A web search led me to discover that he's doing the same thing on your site. That's how I stumbled into your page and decided to drop you a line. I think that is enough :)
-ICH
(Aug 16, 2014) john said:
I have water dripping from my secondary drain from the airconditioner in the front of my house.
The pan is full of water under the unit. I sucked the primary line open with a wet dry vac.
My son can hold his hand over one end of the primary drain pipe and get good suction to his hand when i am sucking with the wet dry unit on the other end.
The primary line is clear. The pan is still filling with water.
Can there be a blockage inside my unit that isn't allowing the water to flow out of the primary drain? How do I clear that?
If the secondary or "overflow" condensate drain pan contains condensate then either there is a leak into the pan allowing condensate to leak out of the air handler or its primary condensate handling system, OR the primary condensate handling system is inoperative - typically because of a blocked pan drain opening or condensate drain line trap.
YOu'll need to shut down the system, open the air handler, examine the drain for leaks or damage or debris, clean it, and beginning there follow and clear the drain path.
(Aug 28, 2014) Anonymous said:
On a Electrical split heat-pump system does the p-trap on the condensation-line create a vacuum to remove the condensation from the unit ?
Presently the condensation line is broken and has been detached directly at the air-handler unit, but condensation water keeps getting over into the Fan-half of the unit therefore drawing moisture into the house.
Anonymous :-) by the way the air handler is in the crawl space . . good thing huh!
P traps do not create a vacuum nor suction to remove water from a condensate drip pan or HVAC unit. They are there to prevent backflow of gases into the unit from the drain line.
Don't spill water in the crawl space: it's asking for a mold problem.
(Sept 10, 2014) Cost said:
What should it cost to have someone come out and clean the A/C water drain?
Cost
Typically a single hour (minimum) charge service call from your HVAC company or plumber will suffice, but of course that depends on variables such as
- ease of access to the equipment
- the diagnosis of why the AC condensate (water) drain has logged
- whether other clog-related repairs are needed
At inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Water_Heater_Piping.htm
we include examples of what can go wrong with the simplest plumbing job that can result in higher costs.
(Oct 15, 2014) Anonymous said:
SO what IS the quickest, easiest way to clear a blockage?
(Nov 5, 2014) Ben Stevens said:
[ put Clorox and vinegar in the drain line on the heat pump, now I have a bad smell and burning eyes. how do I clean it up or ixit up?
(Nov 5, 2014) ben stevens635@gmail.com said:
can I replace the drain line and the smell clear up?
Ben
If a clogged, leaky condensate drain was the cause of odors, clearing it or repairing it or replacing it ought to be the ticket. But from just your question, I can't say what's going on.
Blockages are cleared mechanically, by vacuum cleaner, by air pressure, or by line replacement (least common).
...
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