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Guide to Installing Vinyl Siding &Trim
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How to install vinyl siding:this article describes how to choose & install vinyl siding on buildings, including vinyl siding materials, installation, nailing, flashing, and trim. We describe the composition & properties of vinyl siding such as use of PVC, siding thickness, siding profiles, and how vinyl siding lock and nailing flanges work. We give detailed specifications for installing vinyl siding including corner posts, fixture mounting blocks, use of J and F channel, nailing guidelines, horizontal overlap, trim details and options, and how to assure proper waterproofing at a vinyl-clad building.
Green links show where you are. © Copyright 2013 InspectAPedia.com, All Rights Reserved. Author Daniel Friedman.
Vinyl Siding: Product Choices & Proper Siding Installation Details
Adapted/paraphrased with permission from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction. Steven Bliss.
This article series discusses best practices construction details for building exteriors, including water and air barriers, building flashing products & installation, wood siding material choices & installation, vinyl siding, stucco exteriors, building trim, exterior caulks and sealants, exterior building adhesives, and choices and application of exterior finishes on buildings: paints, stains. This article series includes excerpts or adaptations from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction, by Steven Bliss, courtesy of Wiley & Sons.
Vinyl siding is the leading choice for residential siding in
the United States, accounting for an estimated 36% of the
siding market. It owes its popularity to its low cost and low
maintenance needs.
When first introduced in the late
1950s, vinyl was criticized for fading rapidly, turning brittle
in cold weather, and buckling (or “oil-canning”) in hot
weather.
Vinyl siding, if not properly installed, is also vulnerable to siding or trim blow-offs in high winds [especially on the gable-ends of houses-DF] as our photo (left) demonstrates. |
Through the use of additives to the resin and better installation
techniques, however, manufacturers have addressed
these concerns, and vinyl is finding its way onto
more higher-end projects. Today’s premium products typically
carry a 50-year, or “lifetime,” prorated warranty.
Vinyl Siding Material Composition: plastic polyvinyl chloride
(PVC) & additives
 Vinyl siding is composed of the plastic polyvinyl chloride
(PVC) blended with a number of additives for specific
properties: plasticizers for flexibility; stabilizers to prevent
oxidation; UV radiation absorbers, such as titanium dioxide,
to prevent fading and degradation; and pigments to
add color.
Fillers are added to hold down costs, and the
resin is extruded into a wide variety of the shapes that
mimic natural siding materials. PVC is inherently fire resistant
and carries a Class 1(A) fire-rating.
Our photo (left) shows a 1920's home that was re-sided with vinyl by the editor [DF] Poughkeepsie, NY.
Watch out: for an understanding of plastic or odor issues and potential health concerns see VINYL CHLORIDE HEALTH INFO and VINYL Siding or PLASTIC Window ODORS in Buildings |
Vinyl Siding Oxidation, White Dusting, Color Shifts, Shatter Resistance
While enhanced formulas have improved
vinyl’s performance over the years, it is not impervious to
the elements. Oxidation still occurs and, over time, may
cause a white dusting on the surface, particularly in wet,
cloudy climates such as the Northeast or Northwest. In
freezing weather, a stray baseball can still shatter a panel.
Also sunlight tends to fade dark colors, and excessive heat
will soften and potentially distort the vinyl. To minimize
the effects of heat and sunlight, most vinyl colors are
muted, although some darker colors are available with special
additives to stabilize the vinyl.
Watch out: we sometimes find badly buckled or even burned vinyl building siding where someone placed a barbecue grill too close to the exterior wall (photo above left).
See Heat-Damaged Rippled, Bent, or Sagging Vinyl Siding for details about heat damaged and rippled or sagged vinyl siding.
See Installation & Repair Procedures for Vinyl Siding for suggestions and tools that are used to remove and replace vinyl siding in the middle of a wall.
Watch out: Information about vinyl products (not just siding) that may produce odors or have other environmental concerns can be found at VINYL CHLORIDE HEALTH INFO and VINYL Siding or PLASTIC Window ODORS in buildings.
Vinyl Siding Thickness
Nowadays most vinyl siding is extruded in a
two-layer process that puts the more expensive weather resistant
resins only in the outer layer to save costs. While
building codes allow vinyl siding as thin as .032 inch
(32 mils), premium products range from about 40 to 50 mils,
with the thicker products typically costing proportionately
more.
Some contractors prefer a heavier material for residing
jobs to better smooth over the irregular substrate.
Vinyl Siding Profiles & Textures
 The rigidity of the siding, however, is more
a function of its profile and particularly the thickness
of the butt edge, which typically ranges from
1/2 to 3/4-inch (Figure 1-22)
Our photo of ship-lap profile vinyl siding (left) was provided courtesy of Carson Dunlop Associates.
In general, more rigid products are easier to install,
but they have more pronounced shadow lines at joints.
Siding panels come in several profiles, usually containing
two to four courses of siding per panel. Panels range from
6 to 10 inches in width and are typically 12 feet long, although
some manufacturers offer greater lengths.
Finishes found on vinyl wall siding
range from completely smooth to heavily textured. A
lightly textured finish most closely mimics painted wood
siding.
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Lock and Nailing Flanges on Vinyl Siding
All vinyl siding panels have a locking
tab at the bottom of each panel that snaps over the top tab
of the panel below.
Because of problems with blow-offs in
high winds, some of the premium panels feature reinforced
nailing flanges, either with a thickened extrusion or a hem
as shown in Figure 1-22.
Tip: If you need to disassemble vinyl siding that has already been installed, especially if you don't want to have to take apart the whole wall, pick up a vinyl siding clinching tool at your building supply store.
This simple hooked blade looks a bit like the old frog knife used to clean horses hooves, but it serves a modern purpose of unhooking and re-hooking vinyl siding in the middle of a wall - DF. |
-- Adapted with permission from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction.
Installation Procedures for Vinyl Siding
Waterproofing Details fir Vinyl Siding-Clad Walls: housewrap, flashings
Vinyl siding is not waterproof. Since
wind-driven rain will penetrate at lap joints, corner boards,
and other penetrations, all new siding jobs should begin
with the installation of a weather-resistant drainage plane
consisting of building paper or plastic housewrap and integrated
flashings. On residing jobs, any leaks should be
repaired in the original flashing or cladding before installation
begins.
See WATER BARRIERS, EXTERIOR for details, and also see our additional discussion about building codes and weather barriers behind vinyl siding found at SIDING VINYL.
Thermal Movement in Vinyl-Sided Walls - proper nailing, no caulking
 Because of its high coefficient of
expansion, the key to successful installation of vinyl siding
is to allow it to move freely as temperatures change.
A 12-foot length will vary in length up to
1/2 inch over a 100°F
temperature change.
For that reason, manufacturers
recommend leaving 1/4 inch clearance at receiving trim located
at corners, windows, mounting blocks, or other
places where the siding terminates or is notched.
Increase
the clearance to 3/8 inch when installing in temperatures
below 40°F.
Our photo (left, courtesy of Carson Dunlop Associates) shows the standard nailing flange used on most vinyl siding products - in this case with no nails installed. Just below we discuss how vinyl siding should be nailed.
Do not caulk the vinyl siding panels at overlap joints or at
ends where they meet receiving trim.
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Heat damaged Vinyl Siding
At Damaged Rippled Vinyl Siding, Buckled Siding, Bent, or Sagging Vinyl Siding we discuss the range of sagged, rippled, and damaged vinyl siding and suggest most likely causes such as heat or bending.
There we collect reader comments, guesses, and opinions about what caused the wierd wrinkled vinyl shown in our photo at left.
Clue: this is not thermal expansion. |
Nailing Guidelines for Vinyl Siding - Mistakes mean Blow-Off or Buckling Siding
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Nails in vinyl siding can also restrict movement and cause
buckling problems. To prevent this, do not nail the siding
tight. Instead, “hang” the siding by driving nails in the
center of the nailing slots and leaving 1/32 to 1/16-inch (the
thickness of a dime) between the fastener head and the siding.
Drive nails straight since the head of an angled nail can
pinch and distort the siding. Use corrosion-resistant nails
with heads at least 5/15-inch in diameter, such as roofing nails,
driven at least 3/4-inch into solid wood (Figure 1-23).
Standard nailing spacing for vinyl siding is 16 inches on-center for horizontal
panels, 12 inches for vertical panels. In high-wind areas,
use extra nails and choose a product with a hemmed or reinforced
nailing flange. Carson Dunlop's photo (below) demonstrates aluminum roofing nails used to hang vinyl siding on a building wall.
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Experienced vinyl siding installers who want to avoid siding blow-off (see VINYL SIDING INSPECTION & REPAIR) refer to "hanging vinyl siding" on the building wall rather than "nailing vinyl siding to the building wall" precisely to remind workers not to nail siding so tightly that it buckles when heated.
On a wall section long enough to have spliced sections of vinyl wall siding in a given siding course, if we see vinyl wall siding that is buckled, we also check to see if the siding moves freely left and right on the wall. It's easy to either use the butt of your hand to try to slide a siding panel left or right - it should move about 1/2" or so. If the siding feels tight we may check further by grasping the end or edge of a siding section to see if we can pull or push it.
When locking the vinyl siding panels into position, do not force
them up or pull them down to adjust the alignment. Too tight
panels can tear and too-loose panels can unlock and
come loose. One exception is at the band joint between the
first and second floor where panels may come unlocked
due to shrinkage of the framing. To compensate for this,
some contractors pull the panels a little tight over the band
joist area.
For a detailed guide to types and causes of buckled, broken, bent, or rippled vinyl siding on buildings see Damaged Rippled Vinyl Siding, Buckled Siding, Bent, or Sagging Vinyl Siding |
Overlap Specifications for Horizontal Vinyl Siding Joints
Where more than one panel is needed along
a run, overlap the two panels by about an inch, with the
overlapped edge facing away from high traffic areas so
they will be less visible.
Overlaps should be staggered
at least 3 feet and in a random pattern to avoid creating a
visual seam or step effect up the wall. Where possible,
use a single piece of siding across the wall.
The fewer
joints, the more attractive and water-resistant the job
will be.
Our vinyl siding butt joint photo (left) shows how not to install this material.
Fixture Mounting Blocks on Vinyl Siding
Exterior fixtures—such as light fixtures,
electrical panels, and hose bibs—can also cause
problems if they are fastened through the siding, restricting
its free movement.
Siding manufacturers sell mounting
blocks with integral J-channel to hold panel ends and
allow for movement.
Or the contractor can install wood
mounting blocks before installing the siding and trim them
with J-channel or utility trim.
Trim Details for Vinyl Siding
The appearance of a vinyl siding job often has more to do
with the trim details than with the siding itself. By using
wider trim pieces and avoiding the overuse of J-channel,
the installer can produce a more attractive finished product.
Manufacturers sell a wide range of accessories in
PVC, aluminum, or vinyl-coated aluminum. Most contractors
fabricate at least some of their trim pieces on site from
either prefinished or vinyl-coated aluminum coil stock,
using a sheet-metal break and other specialized tools.
Like vinyl siding, aluminum trim has a high coefficient
of expansion so installation details need to accommodate
movement. Avoid putting nails in the face of flat
pieces of coil stock and allow 1/4 inch at edges for expansion
and contraction. Where possible, use a vinyl receiving
channel, roofing drip cap, or another piece of trim to
support long runs of flat aluminum trim, minimizing the
use of nails.
Where nails are required, use slotted nail
holes, which can be made using a slot punch. Repainted
aluminum or stainless-steel nails are available to match
siding and trim colors. A one-inch hem placed along one
edge of flat trim, such as fascia, will help minimize buckling
or oil-canning.
Soffit and Fascia Products Used with Vinyl Siding
Most vinyl siding jobs include aluminum
fascia trim and vinyl or aluminum soffit panels.
The fascia is typically secured at the top, either by the drip
edge or a piece of vinyl utility trim, although it can also be
fastened with a few face-nails (through slotted holes) if
the nails will be hidden by a gutter.
The bottom lip of the
fascia should be nailed sparingly in slotted holes to allow
movement (Figure 1-24 at left).
The outside edge of the aluminum or vinyl soffit panels
can be supported by the receiving channel (J-channel
or F-channel) or by the L bend at the bottom of the fascia,
as shown in Figure 1-24.
The back edge of the soffit is
either supported by receiving channel or a wood or vinyl
frieze board.
These details allow the fascia and soffit panels
to move freely to accommodate thermal expansion and
avoid buckling.
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Windows and Door Trim with Vinyl Sided Walls - Using J-Channels
 Window and door trim is perhaps
the most conspicuous part of a vinyl siding job. Good planning
is important. If possible, plan the job so a full butt of
the siding lands on top of the windows.
At window bottoms
avoid the use of 3/4inch J-channel, which lets the
unrestricted siding buckle. Instead use utility trim or
under-sill trim to hold the siding tight here and at other
horizontal projections. Where the vinyl has been notched
below a window, use a snap-lock punch to create raised
lugs along the top edge of the siding, locking it into the
under-sill trim.
At window side and head jambs, J-channel is the most
common treatment, with end tabs on the top J-channel bent
over the side channels to deflect water (Figure 1-25).
While this detail helps shed water, it is important
to note that J-channel does not serve as window head
flashing. The window head should be properly flashed
with the window’s top flange or drip cap lapped under the
sheathing wrap and sealed to the sheathing with flashing
tape. |
Installing the Corner Post with Vinyl Siding
 To simplify installation and avoid the conspicuous
look of J-channel around windows, one option is to use
solid vinyl windows with an integral J-channel (Figure
1-26 far left).
For the more traditional look of flat trim around the
window, you can use vinyl widow casing, which is typically
2 1/2 inches wide with an integral J-channel.
Corners.
Set the inside and outside vinyl corner posts
about 1/4 inch below the soffit or frieze above, and lock them
in place with nails at the top of the uppermost nailing slots.
Then nail in the center of the slots every 6 to 12 inches so
that any movement is downward, not upward. Vinyl corner
trim tends to be wavy, so following a snapped line is
helpful (Figure 1-27 above right). |
Vinyl-Siding J-Channel Errors Over Windows: Leaks
 
In our photo at above left it looks like really sloppy J-channel work during siding installation, leaving a leak at the window sill.
Our photo of improperly-cut J-channel trim around a window (above right) shows a more serious problem than may be immediately apparent.
In Spackenkill, Poughkeepsie, NY we found an entire neighborhood of homes in which nearly all of the windows were rotted beyond repair due to this error. The same installer had done all the J-channel vinyl siding work on all the homes.
Also see J-Channel Mistakes in Vinyl Siding Cause Costly Building Damage |
Watch out: J-Channel errors can rot windows and doors: Wind-blown rain sent inside the J-channel trim and into the window structure was the problem caused because the installer didn't follow the manufacturer's instructions. Properly the top J-channel is trimmed to include a tab bent over the vertical J-channel to route water outside, not inside the trim. The little flap and proper J-channel installation details are shown in Figure 1-25.
Wood Trim Installation with Vinyl Siding
For those attracted to the low-maintenance
appeal of vinyl siding but who want the look of traditional
trim, builders can use wood or composite trim rabbeted or
built out to create a receiving channel for the siding. For
example, 5/4--inch corner boards can be rabbeted to receive
the siding, or standard
3/4-inch stock can be furred out the
thickness of the vinyl siding to create a similar effect (see Figure 1-28).
Window and door casings in a vinyl-sided wall can be fashioned the same
way. Either use a furring strip to raise the casing above the
vinyl siding or use a thicker profile with a rabbet. At the
bottom of the window, you can partially conceal the undersill
trim in the rabbet. To shed water, the head casing will
still need conventional head flashing and J-channel, but
these will be relatively inconspicuous.
-- Adapted with permission from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction.
How to Repair Loose Vinyl Siding or Remove and Reinstall Part of a Vinyl-Clad Wall
Use this Siding Hook to Remove or Replace Vinyl Siding
Brute force can un-hook vinyl siding in the middle of a wall from the course below and course above, in order to pull nails and take off a bad siding section.
But without a siding replacement tool such as Malco's Side Swiper SRT1 shown in our photo (left), re-hooking the bottom edge of the new siding section to the top of the course below can be almost impossible.
The hook on this tool is designed to loosen and then help re-lock the bottom edge of vinyl siding without cutting or damaging the siding.
A few home inspectors also carry this siding replacement tool to permit invasive inspection of a building wall - something not normally done during a visual home inspection for a purchaser.
A newer version of this tool, the Malco SideSwiperII (SRT2) has a nicer handle that makes unlocking and re-locking of vinyl siding easier and less likely to be damaged.
For more examples of how this side swiper siding tool may be useful, see VINYL SIDING INSPECTION & REPAIR for details about detecting installation or wear damage at vinyl siding installations. |
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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about how to install vinyl siding
Question: I need to replace a vinyl corner post but can't find a match
I need to replace a vinyl corner post made by Bird & Sons. The post is light grey, 3 1/4" wide with a " smooth " surface. I found that finding this item is a real bear. I've been looking up Bird & Sons on the net for possible help but find it is over welming for me to make heads or tales from all the stuff posted. Would you , if you can, shed some light on this item? - Rick Lupold 7/12/12
Reply:
Rick,
Your best bet is to find the closest match to the original siding in color, putting texture secondary, from another manufacturer. In my experience, especially with older vinyl siding, even if you found an "exact" match by product number and brand, age and sun exposure will have changed the color of the siding on the building so the new part won't exactly match anyhow.
The worst problem is not matching the color, it's the amount of siding that you'll have to pull off to remove the old and nail the new corner trim in place.
Question: diagnosing why there is rippled odd looking vinyl siding
The picture with the dryer vent below the window [we moved it to collect related info together - see Buckled, Rippled, Deformed Vinyl Siding Caused by Other Hazards: heat leaks, chemical spills, unknown] was caused by the reflection of the sun off the window. I would put $$$ on it. - Jim Hilt 9/11/2011
There's a good chance the rippled effect on the siding was caused my improper dryer vent installation and hot dryer air is leaking behind the siding. - Anonymous 9/15/2012
Reply:
Thanks for the guesses, Jim and Anonymous. Working together we are smarter than working alone.
Jim:
But in this case, while I thought you might have something there, after a more careful check, I don't think so. Look at that photo again carefully - you'll see that the rippled vinyl siding extends way below the opposing window - not in the path of reflected heat from the window glass.
Anonymous:
We have expanded our discussion of the rippled vinyl siding effect to explain the difference between obvious heat damage from a barbecue grill and the odd rippling in our photo above. The vent you saw is not for a hot air dryer, it's an air intake for a fireplace insert built into that chimney chase. But your guess is a good one in that there may be a more dangerous hot gas leak from the fireplace. For that reason we recommended invasive inspection to check the chimney chase interior as well as the condition of the fireplace
For additional photographs and discussion of all types of sagged, torn, cut, broken, rippled, or otherwise damaged vinyl siding, take a look at the companion article VINYL SIDING INSPECTION & REPAIR and within that article see these subtopics
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Technical Reviewers & References
Related Topics, found near the top of this page suggest articles closely related to this one.
- Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction, by Steven Bliss. John Wiley & Sons, 2006. ISBN-10: 0471648361, ISBN-13: 978-0471648369, Hardcover: 320 pages, available from Amazon.com and also Wiley.com. See our book review of this publication.
- Mark Cramer Inspection Services Mark Cramer, Tampa Florida, Mr. Cramer is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors and is a Florida home inspector and home inspection educator. Mr. Cramer serves on the ASHI Home Inspection Standards. Contact Mark Cramer at: 727-595-4211 mark@BestTampaInspector.com
- John Cranor is an ASHI member and a home inspector (The House Whisperer) is located in Glen Allen, VA 23060. He is also a contributor to InspectApedia.com in several technical areas such as plumbing and appliances (dryer vents). Contact Mr. Cranor at 804-747-7747 or by Email: johncranor@verizon.net
 Carson, Dunlop & Associates Ltd., 120 Carlton Street Suite 407, Toronto ON M5A 4K2. (416) 964-9415 1-800-268-7070 info@carsondunlop.com. The firm provides professional home inspection services & home inspection education & publications. Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors. Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission for InspectAPedia to use text excerpts from The Home Reference Book & illustrations from The Illustrated Home. Carson Dunlop Associates' provides:
- Commercial Building Inspection Courses - protocol ASTM Standard E 2018-08 for Property Condition Assessments
- Home Inspection Education Courses including home study & live classes at eleven colleges & universities.
- Home Inspection Education Home Study Courses - ASHI@Home Training 10-course program.
Special Offer: Carson Dunlop Associates offers InspectAPedia readers in the U.S.A. a 5% discount on these courses: Enter INSPECTAHITP in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author.
- The Home Reference Book, a reference & inspection report product for building owners & inspectors.
Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAHRB in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author.
- The Home Reference eBook, an electronic version for PCs, the iPad, iPhone, & Android smart phones.
Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order. Enter inspectaehrb in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space.
- The Illustrated Home illustrates construction details and building components, a reference for owners & inspectors.
Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Illustrated Home purchased as a single order Enter INSPECTAILL in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space.
- The Horizon Software System manages business operations,scheduling, & inspection report writing using Carson Dunlop's knowledge base & color images. The Horizon system runs on always-available cloud-based software for office computers, laptops, tablets, iPad, Android, & other smartphones.
- Paul Galow - technical consultant on networking, LAN design, applications support. Galow Consulting Services, 914-204-1749, email: paulgalow@galowconsulting.com
- John Rudy, Advantage Home Inspections, Flemington N.J. 08822 home inspector, 908-806- 6364, Home, Radon & Termite Inspections, Central & Parts of North New Jersey, email: jonadvantage1@yahoo.com
- Malco® Products siding tools are available from that company, including the SideSwiper II SRT2 discussed at Malco's website. Websearch 09/07/2010 http://malcoproducts.com/product/roofing-siding-gutter/siding-vinyl/siding-tools-vinyl/sideswiper-ii. Malco also produces other vinyl siding repair tools such as aprons, awls, hole punches, saw blades, and tools for for fiber cement products including power-assisted cutters
- Parmetol, a wood preservative recommended by the manufacturer was used as a fungicidal additive to paint on the Blue Poplar wood sculpture in Amsterdam, by artist Mari Shields [ - art conservation consult DJF-artist MS 2010]
Books & Articles on Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, & Repair
 The Home Reference Book - the Encyclopedia of Homes, Carson Dunlop & Associates, Toronto, Ontario, 25th Ed., 2012, is a bound volume of more than 450 illustrated pages that assist home inspectors and home owners in the inspection and detection of problems on buildings. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. Field inspection worksheets are included at the back of the volume. Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAHRB in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author.
Or choose the The Home Reference eBook for PCs, Macs, Kindle, iPad, iPhone, or Android Smart Phones. Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAEHRB in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space.
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