Water tank air addition schedule:
This article explains how often to add air to a building water pressure tank, and how to detect and correct air and water leaks in a building water supply system where a private well is the water source.
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When your water tank is a conventional older style that does NOT use a "captive-air" type bladder, unless there's a leak at the water tank you shouldn't have to add air again for months or maybe even a year.
The frequency with which you'll need to add air depends mostly on how much water is used.
Eventually air in this older type of tank gets absorbed into the water, losing the cushion effect and generating a need for more air.
Captive-air or bladder type tanks should never need air added. If you keep having toadd air to a bladder-type tank something is wrong with the system, perhaps a torn or leaky water bladder in the tank or a leak in the steel tank body that is losing air.
The pressure tank's internal rubber bladder contains water, the steel tank body contains the air charge.
There are fancier methods than those described below but here are three simple methods, of which the second two work well for easy replacement of air lost from a bladderless or glass-lined steel water storage or pressure tank.
Bladder type or "captive air" water tanks do not normally need to have makeup air added but if you are finding short cycling on a bladder-type water tank system, if the problem is not in the pump control or water piping, the problem may be traced to a failure of the internal bladder itself - a component that may be replaceable. In that case adding air to the bladder type water tank won't correct the problem.
Readers of this document should also see WATER PUMP REPAIR GUIDE an specific case which offers an example of diagnosis of loss of water pressure, loss of water, and analyzes the actual repair cost. The illustration at page top is courtesy of Carson Dunlop, Inc. in Toronto.
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