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Water, Wells, Pumps & Water Test FAQs #3More FAQs about water supply systems, well pumps, water tanks, pump controls, wells, well pumps:
Set 3 of water, well, and water supply equipment frequently-asked questions answer inspection, diagnosis, and repair questions about the building water supply sources and equipment.
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- Daniel Friedman, Publisher/Editor/Author - See WHO ARE WE?
These questions & answers were posted originally
at WATER PUMPS, TANKS, TESTS, WELLS, REPAIRS - please be sure to see the diagnosis and repair advice organized there.
On 2020-06-20 - by (mod) -
Sure, Dan, ask a question, identify the pump brand and model, and we'll try to help
On 2020-06-20 by Dan
Need help with new pump
On 2020-05-07- by (mod) -
I would pump to a water pressure tank and let the pressure tank feed the house. However it's likely that you need more to do with your water system than just delivering it to the building. Your sister may not be capable of ensuring safe potable water. You may need a disinfection system and filtration.
On 2020-05-07 by Marty
I have a 300 gallon rainwater cistern, I want to pump the water into my cottage. The 1/2 hp pump I have has a 1" diameter outlet pipe. The cottage has been plumbed with 1/2" pex pipe. Can I reduce the size of pipe from the [ump outlet to fit the 1/2' pex?
On 2020-03-11 - by (mod) -
Carola
That's basically correct, subject of course to restrictions in flow such as the effect of a smaller pipe diameter
On 2020-03-11 by Carola
If I have 2 Wells..one is 4gpm one is 6 gpm. If I pump them into one pipe would it be 10 gpm?
On 2018-02-16 by (mod) - water pump short cycling
Dave, use the search box just above to find the diagnostic article series on WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING
On 2018-02-16 by dave
my water pump cycles on/offon/off/on/off while using water, bladderless tank, air control valve, extremely high electric bill, what is the caus
On 2018-01-26 by (mod) -
Indeed it sounds, Joe, as if debris from your well is clogging a filter or well point, or even faucets. If you remove a faucet strainer do you get good water pressure? If so then it's faucet strainer cleaning time.
If not it's time to look at the well water supply in more detail
On 2018-01-26 by Joe
Winter freeze pop went pr valve replaced thaw came system seemed fine week later water pressure turned into trickle hot and cold equal replaced cartridge in kitchen faucet no help small particles of black moss like substance
clogs small filter screen frequently pressure gauge psi acts correctly 48-70 pump in 83’ well Schraeder valve does not emit water please help need child guidance or any bits of wisdom
On 2018-01-20 by (mod) - pump only runs when I hold the pump contacts closed
The switch is new but the sensor pipe that conducts water pressure to it could be clogged, OR you set the tank air charge pressure too hight.
Use the search box just above to search InspectApedia for PUMP WON'T TURN ON to see our recommended diagnosis and repair steps.
On 2018-01-20 0 by Trevor
My well pump appears to be working only when I manually hold the contacts on the pressure switch closed. If i let go it never comes on on its own. New pressure switch. Breakers are not tripping.
If no hold the contacts close for a minute or two I will hear water coming though the piping.
The pressure tank always feels light. It has air pressure. If i turn the faucets on I have no water unless I've held the pressure switch down. But the water pressure lasts maybe 30 seconds before I get nothing.
The well driller suggested I need a new pump and parts and labor will cost 4500$ that was over the phone before giving him this diagnosed.
They haven't even looked at anything so I am hesitant to hire them. How can I pinpoint my problem? Could a failed tank cause this ?
I may not be able to find this forum again as I can't find my previous comment. Please feel free to email me tmoldovan93@hotmail.com
On 2017-12-30 by Shibu john
Kindly let me know how to remove rust formed on the submercible motor kept in the water tank and what are the option to avoid such rust formation.
On 2017-11-12 by Anonymous
Jesse Smith
On 2017-11-04 by (mod) -
Thank you so much for the very nice comment, Ed. We are especially pleased with material that we worked on is reported to have been found useful. We also course welcome questions comments or critique. Working together helps us both.
On 2017-11-04 by Ed S. - We have a cistern with a jet pump
Just wanted to say thanks for the resource!
Our 13 year old (2 wire, 240v, ½ HP) submersible (50' bored well, 3' casing, 25' stand of water) got to the point where it was barely building any pressure (although you could hear the pump running with the well cap off).
We have a cistern with a jet pump for our garden and livestock, but I can also valve it to the house as a backup system (we also have a hand pump connected to the cistern in the cellar for power outages in the winter).
After switching over to that, we pulled the submersible and replaced with a ¾ HP, 10gpm unit.
After finding it also was not pumping, I replaced the pressure switch and still nothing. I primed the line using the cistern pump, hit the power, and got a nice rush of water! It's possible I didn't need a new submersible after all, but given the age of the previous one, it was probably not good for too many more years anyway.
I'll disassemble it later just to see the condition if the impeller.
This is the first time I've pulled a submersible, and it wasn't nearly as difficult as I'd built it up in my mind to be, although folks with deeper wells might disagree!
At any rate, huge thanks - the site was a huge help in figuring out what to do and how to do it!
Ed
On 2017-11-01 by (mod) - RPZ device (reduced pressure zone) also referred to as a backflow valve
An RPZ device (reduced pressure zone) also referred to as a backflow valve such as the
Zurn Wilkins BACK-SIPHONAGE CONTROL 375AST, [PDF] specifications sheet, Zurn Industries, LLC | Wilkins
1747 Commerce Way, Paso Robles, CA U.S.A. 93446 Ph. 855-663-9876, Fax 805-238-5766
In Canada | Zurn Industries Limited
3544 Nashua Drive, Mississauga, Ontario L4V 1L2 Ph. 905-405-8272, Fax 905-405-1292
www.zurn.com retrieved 2018/12/05 original source: http://www.zurn.com/media-library/web_documents/pdfs/specsheets/bf-375ast-pdf
has to meet ASSE 1013, and will have a pressure loss or flow rate chart that is model dependent.
You'll typically see rates with a capacity of up to about 750 gpm with pressure losses up to about 15 psid
I think that before we can essay yo provide a more precise answer to your question we or you'd need to know the diameter and flow capacity of the water supply at the building.
On 2017-11-01 by kris
I have a street pressure of 46 psi; what should be the flow rate in gpm thru a 4" RPZ (BACKFLOW PREVENTER) ?
On 2017-10-22 by (mod) - after I wash clothes I only get a trickle of water from faucets etc, but in a while its ok again
This sounds as if the well is being exhausted. A booster pump in the house would make matters worse as you'd simply be using more water faster.
Useful diagnostics are at WELL FLOW TEST for WATER QUANTITY
and
at WELL YIELD IMPROVEMENT are suggestions for improving the quantity of water you can get out of an existing well
On 2017-10-22 by evelyn corda
I just replaced a well pump that was broken Goulde.
after I wash clothes I only get a trickle of water from faucets etc, but in a while its ok again.
Is this a pressure problem or am I draining the well and it needs to refill. I heard vaguely I might need some other kind of pump inside the house .
what could be the cause of the fix
On 2017-09-26 by Ksheati
Replace pressure tank have 90 lbs of pressure at gauge no pressure in house
On 2017-08-27 by A B ILANGO
i have a belt type compressor 1 hp water pump to lift water from 209 ft tube well, till 24th the pump was working fine then it stopped pumping water
i replaced with new compressor but unfortunately it is able to pump if the nozle is placed at shallow depth and stops pumping if it goes below 60ft why can some one help
On 2017-06-26 by Jet pump issues help requested
Our well was placed in a concrete pit next to the house when it was built in 1946.
To my knowledge, it was never pulled and worked on, just jet pumps replaced when they failed. The last one was a Sear's model number 390.2522 - 0.75HP.
It has been there since 2010 and has pumped water to the cattle through a one inch plastic pipe 8 months out of the year faithfully. It started to run and stop frequently and had started to make noise as of late which over the decades was a sign to replace it.
Sears no longer makes it so we found that Simer had the exact same unit at a Menards store in Madison Wisc. We replaced the pump and noticed it doing the same thing so shut it off that night and the next day it had lost prime.
Could not get it to prime so with tractors and chains and winches pulled 63 feet of 1 and 1.25 inch pipe out of our well and found a pin hole just above the foot valve.
Went to Menards and purchased the 200 # PSI plastic pipe put everything together, including the new Ventura at the bottom, pressure tested the loop at 60 #s for 4 hours and it held.
Put it down the well which I had sent a plumb bob down and it did not hit bottom at 100 feet. Poured a quart of bleach down and let it set over night. Primed the pump with about seven gallons of water and let it sit for about two hours, no loss of water. Fired it up and it ran to 47-48 pounds and never stopped running. Shut it down and let it sit overnight.
With pump off, next morning had water to fill 2 five gallon buckets before it stopped and when we fire the pump up it ran fine and did not shut off. So with the system under pressure shut it down that night and inspected the gauge at 45 #s. No leaks overnight and gauge still read about 44-45 next morning 12 hours later.
The new 2017 jet kit is a Parts2O model FP4800 and we put it together as the diagram told us to. The old pump that was removed had a foot valve at the bottom, 63' from top of casing. But the Ventura was 19 feet 3.5 inches above the foot valve and not at the bottom like we placed it.
If we place the new Ventura at the same depth as the 1946 model with all the same pipe will our pump shut off?
I went so far as to shut the valve off from the house next to the pump for 5 minutes or so and turn it on and the pump stayed off for five hours until we needed to get water.
I adjusted the switch to turn off at 45 and now it is working fine. If we raise the venture up and match the 1946 lay out will that correct the problem and let me bring it back to 50 on the cut off?
Thank you. Michael and Colleen
On 2017-06-24 1 by Anonymous
I have a well and my water has been turning on and off for the past 2 months. Someone tried to fix know it worked a little today and cut off again. No we have no water. Was told can be clogged or there is erosion. Please help ???
On 2017-06-17 by Greg
We're using a Myers water pump to circulate the water in our pond. I want the pump to run constantly. It has a pressure switch but there's no tank it's just an inlet and an outlet. The problem is it keeps shutting off after about 10-15 minutes.
Like it's going out on a thermal circuit breaker. And the pump is incredibly hot. I don't need it to run a long long time just a couple hours.
My question is is there some type of adjustment that's causing it to shut off or is it overheating?
On 2017-06-04 by (mod) - I think my well has gone dry
Your guess makes sense, though there can be other problems too. If the pump ran dry that could kill it from overheating;
Other possibilities:
- open or broken wire inside the well - watch out about getting killed by shock: be sure power is off when pulling pump or wiring.
- a burst well pipe in the sell
On 2017-06-04 by phillip
Have an old Myers (House was built in 1983) well with submersible pump.
Was running water into a kids inflatable pool and washing clothes. Water stopped pressure dropped to zero and pump will not come on, Have swapped breakers inside at fuse panel. Have power from panel to pressure switch and from pressure switch to top of well cap.
Have not taken cap off to check wring further. I'm thinking pump is gone or well is dry.What else could be the problem?
On 2016-11-16 by (mod) -
Sarah
Sounds as if we need a competent well plumber on site. There could be any of several issues: water hammer, insufficient number of checkvalves on a deep well pipe, improper pump pressure control settings, poor quality or poorly installed piping or pipe connections;
Example: if your pump is in the well - each time the pump turns on it causes a rotating twist to the well piping.
In a deep well that can abrade, break, or wear the pipe unless special steps are taken to install spacers and torque control to stop the trouble.
But I can't guess I can only arm-wave. YOu need an onsite expert.
On 2016-11-16 by (mod) -
RE-Posting comment left on somebody's web server's old cc of this article:
AUTHOR:Sarah (no email)
COMMENT:We got our house last year and ever since we have been having issues with our well. We replaced the pump last year and the line keeps getting blowouts,
Three times this month so far. After the second time we replaced the whole line since it was about 20 years old.
It was running fine for about two weeks and we ran out of water again this morning and have another hole . Why would these holes keep happening?
We are going to fix the line again but want to know how to keep this from happening in the future. Thanks !
On 2016-10-17 by Anonymous
pump runs a long time to come to pressure
On 2016-10-03 by Earn
I have a submersed well pump and a galvanized hydro-pneumatic pressure tank that keeps getting water logged after about a half days use.
I’ve replace the air volume control, the pressure gage and the pressure switch to no avail. This tank has another component that I can find no information on. The top hole of the tank which is normally plugged has ¼” tubing plumbed back into the water inlet pipe.
What is this for and might it be causing my problems if it is not working correctly?
When the switch cuts-in there is about a three second delay before I hear the water gushing into the tank. On cut-out I hear water trickling for 5-10 seconds and the tank loses about 4psi.
On 2016-09-14 by (mod) - seasonal drop in the water table into
It sounds to me as if there is both a seasonal drop in the water table into which you're well has been drilled and when the traffickers less desirable water is flowing into your well
. If you have adequate water quantity then you may be able to install a water treatment system to remove salt and other undesirable components in the water supply.
Otherwise you may need to drill the well deeper.
On 2016-09-11 by Platt
We had a well dug in 2009 for a summer house.
The well is 600 feet deep, which the driller said was necessary to get a good flow rate. Every sring when we start using the house, the water tastes fresh and good.
Every year about mid June it gets salty, and stays too salty to use for drinking until weclose up in November.
Is there a way to solve this salt problem in the existing well, maybe by raising the level where the water s drawn off. We don't need a lot of water, no washing machine or dishwasher, only sinks and a bath tub.
On 2016-09-04 by Bonnie
We have a 45 foot well there has been no problem in the 3 years of owning this home. The problem is that when we turn on the outside garden hose for 1/2 hour the pressure is reduced in the house. Than I turn off the breaker switch and than back on all is find.
The well company installed a second bladder tank now we have 2 of them. the plumber has cut and replaced pipes no blockage in the lines. We kept thinking it has to be the well pump. They pulled the pump and said nothing is wrong.
On 2016-05-21 by Vern
Shallow well pump and small bladder tank. Pump runs until reaches correct pressure, then water is available and slowly loses pressure and no water. Even though pump was running as the pressure decreased, it takes a while to get water again and get the pressure up. What needs to be checked?
On 2016-04-28 by (mod) -
We suggest diagnostic procedures for this case, Dale, found by searching InspectApedia.com for WATER PUMP WON'T RUN
On 2016-04-24 by daleupton12
Have power but pump want come on or make any cind of nosie
On 2016-04-16 by (mod) -
Tim it may be that the switch includes a pump protection circuit that is in operation because the well is low on water
On 2016-04-16 by tim
pressure switch only operates manually
On 2016-04-13 by (mod) - where to find pump switch wiring basic instructions & diagrams
Damsel:
What's the question? If you are asking about the basic wiring of a well pump control, you'll see that right inside the control switch cover.
On 2016-04-13 1 by (mod) -
RE-posting:
Damsel in didstresse.,please help.., soon (no email)
COMMENT:schematics(wirediagram monitorpanel (circuit-board)importance turns on,/off water pump,heater oump
On 2016-04-04 5 by (mod) - the pressure tank or holding tank does not create water pressure: that's done by the pump
Null
If the pressure tank is one that uses an internal bladder in which the water is inside the bladder and air is outside it (the usual but not only design) then the bladder has burst and the gauge is defective - repairs / replacement are needed, I hope under warranty.
The water *pressure* is a function of the pump not the tank. But if the tank bladder has burst chances are the tank will not work properly and the pump may be short cycling on and off - that can damage it.
Increased water temperature won't be due to a new tank or pump.
On 2016-04-03 by null0007@gmail.com - What does kPa represent and why is it also displayed with psi?.
My well pump company installed a new pump and pressure tank, the pressure tank is twice the size of the old tank. He also added a pressure gauge to the pump. One month later the gauge face is full of water and I notice the gauge reads 270 kPa in red alongside 37 psi in red.
What does kPa represent and why is it also displayed with psi?..will the water damage the gauge? Btw, the water pressure in the house is the best it's ever been, and for some reason the hot water is hotter now too; I wonder why would that be?
On 2016-03-11 by (mod) -
Ray:
I'm disappointed too in the result you describe. Perhaps someone jumped to a pump re-build and switch replacement without adequate diagnosis, OR there may have been a double fault.
Example: if your well pump loses prime OR if your well flow rate is inadequate and those conditions leave the pump running for a long time, the pump impeller or bearings could be damaged, resulting in a pump that will no longer develop pressure. But if the underlying problem was loss of water in the well, that needs to be identified and addressed.
On 2016-03-11 by (mod) -
Anon: if your well pump won't shut off we have a diagnostic procedure for that problem - search InspectApedia for WATER PUMP WON'T STOP RUNNING =- take a look at that article and do let me know if questions remain.
Daniel
On 2016-03-11 by Ray F
Our pump was not turning off and we went getting water so we turned it off and had it rebuilt and changed the pressure switch but still no water??? We have a private shallow well in a pit out side.
On 2016-03-10 by Anonymous
I nave a deep well pump.Just replace pressure switch. I Did NOT MOVE FACTORY SETTING. The pump will not shut off , let it run for 20 min. How long does it take to build up pressure. its a 40 60 switch
On 2016-01-27 by Anonymous
What is a typical psi setting for home water well pumps. Ours is now reading 58 psi. Our neighbors went down to 45 psi and now reads over 65 psi after sensor replacement. Please advise me.
Rich Serino
On 2016-01-09 by (mod) - bad foot valve or possibly a leak in well piping or a failed snifter valve
Joe
I suspect a bad foot valve or possibly a leak in well piping or a failed snifter valve in the well
On 2016-01-07 by joe - Can hear water running back to well
Can hear water running back to well
On 2015-12-31 by (mod) -
Best would be to leave water off it that's possible (if heat is by a hot water system the boiler must have water)
Search InspectApedia.com for NO WATER PRESSURE to see a diagnostic and repair sheet
On 2015-12-31 0 by Kevin Fennessy
For a friend...been out of town for a couple of weeks. returned and no water coming from pump.Any suggestions??
On 2015-12-07 by (mod) -
It sounds as if there is a problem with air entering your building piping system - you may also see air discharge at other faucets too.
If you are connected to municipal water ask your water department for help.
If you are on a private well you'll need help from a well plumber to find the source of air leaks or air entry into the system.
On 2015-12-07 by Mary
A week ago I flushed the upstairs toilet, as I stood up there was a loud noise coming from it, I thought something was erupting, made me jump forward;
the water did go down. I looked inside the tank and the water appeared cloudy. Today I turned on the cold water faucet in the same bathroom and a large shot of air came out, then the water.
I don't know what kind of service people to call? There are no people family or friend wise to help me.
On 2015-12-02 by Guy
I have a private well that is three years old. This is the first work that has been done on it. The circuit breaker, pressure switch and capacitor are new. Here's the problem. The pump will fill the steel tank once in a while without tripping the circuit breaker.
I have a 40/60 pressure switch for a deep well that seems to open and close when it is supposed to. I don't think that there is continual power to that switch.
However, there is power occasionally because the tank will fill up once or twice a day after resetting the circuit breaker even though the breaker doesn't trip to the off position. The tank has been drained and has been refilled since it was drained.
When attempting to add air pressure to 38psi, the pressure reached 21psi and began blowing water up through the pump/well cover. The tank was drained again and refilled with water only. The pump is not filling the tank. The pressure switch is closed. The circuit breaker works. Why doesn't the pump fill the tank like it's supposed to?
On 2015-10-28 by Susan
Should my water be blue when the tub is full. What might it mean when the water comes out blue.
On 2015-10-27 by jerry
have a submersible pump. pump runs all the time pressure wont go past 40psi .change pressure switch still the same
On 2015-10-17 by raven
I rent and the water supply is of a spring. Owners are also upon property. Every 6-7 months the water wreaks of chlorine. Is this a proper method of safe sanitation?.
Fortunately I have a Very good water filter system. The cat drinks only from pitcher and off the tops of plants, being rainwater. Any hints? Are they shocking holding tank and odor eventually dissipates?
On 2015-08-26 by (mod) -
Sorry we don't have a specific referral; you might check with your local health department or water testing labs if you're having trouble finding water treatment companies in your area.
On 2015-08-26 by Janice C Retherford
We use spring water which is pumped into a tank and then into our house. I buy bottled water for drinking and cooking because I don't trust the quality of our water, although it looks and taste good.
Also, the water has a good bit of debris in it (stems, moss, gravel) which is bad for our plumbiing. Is there anyone in the Florence, Alabama area that can install a filtered treatment system for our spring water? Thank you for your help.
On 2015-07-29 by (mod) -
Lil
The sand in the water suggests that your well is running low, you are exceeding its flow rate, or there is a cracked casing.
On 2015-07-29 by Lillian
I have a 405 foot deep well with a 3 hp pump and a bladder tank.
My problem is the pressure keeps rises and cuts off about every 30 seconds
when I run the irrigation system and now I am getting sand in my water.
What is causing this.
On 2015-06-21 1 by (mod) - Some pressure control switches have a replacable diaphragm
Joe
Some pressure control switches have a replacable diaphragm on the switch bottom; but disassembling the switch while it is under pressure might cause the diaphragm membrane to rupture
. If you can remove pressure from the system it MIGHT be possible to remove and replace the upper switch assembly without losing fluid. And some switches also have replaceable electrical contact units that can be changed out similarly.
On 2015-06-21 by (mod) -
Shooleh
As I know nothing whatsoever about your installation, equipment, controls, I'm doubtful that I or someone else can tell you exactly how to wire up controls. Why not ask for help from a licensed plumber or electician? After all there are shock and fire hazards involved in any electrical wiring.
On 2015-06-20 by just joe
how can i change a pressure switch without
out loosing any of the control fluid
On 2015-06-18 by shooleh
Hello,I've read the articles pressure control switch But I did not find the answer.In parallel pumps not find your articles on the subject.please help me
On 2015-06-12 1 by (mod) -
In the articles listed in the ARTICLE INDEX near the end of this page above please read the detailed pressure control switch guides beginning at WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH
On 2015-06-12 by shooleh
Dear, hello Thank you for your response to my question.My exact question.In an apartment Two water pumps in parallel.who can i adjustment two pressure control switch and How much should I inflate the diaphragm resources?Best regards
On 2015-06-12 by (mod) - Each pump needs its own pressure tank
Shoo
Each pump needs its own pressure tank and pressure control switch.
On 2015-06-11 1 by shooleh
who can i adjustment parallel pumps with two pressure switch?
On 2015-05-18 by (mod) -
Will
Check for a waterlogged pressure tank, burned contacts in the pressure switch, a sticking switch relay, or a damaged or failing pump or pump motor.
On 2015-05-15 by Will
I have a galvanized tank. The presets on my motor were perfect when I installed it. (Never had to adjust anything) Recently, I have noticed that as soon as I run my water, the pump cuts on and does not turn off until approximately 30 seconds after I cut the water off.
(I have two teenage sons that love to fix things, need I say more?) I have completely drained the tank, capped it and refilled it and still to continue to have the same problem. My pressure switch has a cut off and cut on, should I try adjusting these? It seems my top pressure has not changed (55). Thanks, Will
On 2015-05-14 by (mod) - DIY motor repair succes story
Johnny, what a remarkable repair. I'd have speculated that if the motor was shorted out it'd have been damaged. Nice going. That's a new diagnosis and repair to add to our electric motor repair article. I'll do so.
What I don't understand is that at the beginning of our discussion you said the pump ran but just could not get water pressure above 28 psi. IF the motor was shorted I'd think it'd not run at all.
When you disassembled and cleaned the motor parts did you check the condition of the bearings? Were there any burn indications? Did the parts fit together without wobbling.?
On 2015-05-14 by Johnny
After a second morning of messing around I got it working correctly. The pipes were shortened and reattached after making sure the jet didn't have any obstructions. The motor was opened up and was found to have a lot of dead fire ants and some white powder which I assume was cement powder.
The motor was blown out with an air compressor. Everything was reinstalled and the system worked like it was supposed to. A new pressure gauge was installed to help monitor the system. I assume the ants where somehow shorting out part of the motor so that it couldn't reach full power. There were no ants anywhere else.
On 2015-05-12 by Anonymous
Check the pump impeller condition and the voltage.
Confirm no leaks in well piping.
On 2015-05-12 by Anonymous
The purpose of pumping air into the system was to see if there were any leaks that did not show when water was just poured into the pump and allowed to sit for a while with the entire system removed from the well.
I was pointing out that water doesn't compress, so some air would need to be in the system in order to pressurize it to help check for leaks, of which I could find none. The pump was not turned on during the "pressure test". The pump delivers a good volume of water inside the house.
At this time I can only think of two possible causes.
1) The pump is too weak to raise the water pressure beyond 28 psi even though plenty of water is being delivered inside the home. A new pump may be needed.
2) The hose clamps on the jet assembly were rusted out and not clamping the pipe to the assembly well enough. Water was leaking out at the jet assembly under pressure and vibration caused by the pump running.
When the pump was not running and the pressure and vibrations dropped to levels that allowed the pipes to seal well enough so that prime was not lost. Possibly cutting the two pipes shorter to expose “non-stretched” pipe and new hose clamps to prevent leakage.
Any further advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Johnny
On 2015-05-12 by (mod) -
I'm a bit confused by some of your diagnostics, such as pumping air into the water pump, and I'd be careful not to overpressurize and blow something up -= which can injure someone.
And some of your description confuses me further as it's not what I expect such as "... too much water was left in the pump" - a pump is normally always full of water unless it has lost its prime.
- if running the pump does not produce water at pressure there is most likely
--- water not entering the pump
--- the pump is damaged internally - such as a damaged impeller
--- water mixed with air (from a leak) is entering the pump
At Continue Reading near the end of this article click the llink ARTICLE INDEX to WATER SYSTEMS & EQUIPMENT to see a complete list of water pressure and pump diagnostic articles.
On 2015-05-11 22:38:20.986010 by Johnny
Hello. I was hoping that you would be able to help me with a well pump problem. Here's the story so far.
Well pump is constantly running with no loss of prime or air tank pressure while off. The pressure gauge on the pump is non-operational. Water pressure at the tap is good.
1/2 Horsepower 2 line jet pump set up for 220 volts with full voltage to the pressure switch. A new 30/50 pressure switch was installed along with making sure that the tubing for the pressure switch and path into the pump were not clogged. The old pressure switch appeared to be fine.
The tank was removed and the air pressure testing showed 28 psi. The air tank will hold a higher psi with no pressure drop. Filling the tank to 65 psi did not make the pump turn off.
Running the pump with the tank installed would not increase the psi of the tank beyond the standard 28 psi.
A shut off ball valve was installed immediately after the tank to rule out a leak after the well housing. No water is seen or heard dripping from pump or well pipes.
The pump and attached well pipes were removed and no visible signs of damage were observed. The jet/foot valve where placed down hill with the pump uphill and the pump filled with water. No water was observed leaking.
A Schrader valve was installed onto the pump. Compressed air was applied to the schrader valve and the driver water pipe quickly popped off of the jet. This could have been because of too much water was left in the pump so that there wasn't enough of an air bubble to compress. The driver water pipe was pressed back on by hand since it was noticed that the hose clamp was broken and compressed air again applied.
The system was pressurized to 43 psi. The system would slowly lose pressure. Several minutes where required for the psi to drop one pound. Once the system reached 39 psi there was no more pressure loss. Picking up the jet/foot valve caused a rush of air to escape from the suction pipe and the hose clamp on the suction pipe then broke.
Thanks for any help.
On 2015-05-09 by (mod) - If your system has a pressure gauge you can see at what pressure range it was running
Jennifer
If your system has a pressure gauge you can see at what pressure range it was running. In any event you should be ok with a 20/40 switch - of course I'm only guessing because we don't know a thing about your water supply, well flow rate or other limitations.
To avoid burning up the pump you need
- a working pressure tank on the system (or other special devices that can omit the tank but protect the pump from rapid cycling)
- a pressure control switch that is not set higher than the pump can reach. Most pump control switches are adjustable.
- a water supply that doesn't run dry
On 2015-05-09 by Jennifer Wilson-Doramus
To irrigate my yard I have a Red Lion RLSP 200, 2hp lawn & turf pump. I want to replace the Square D Pumptrol Pressure Switch I do not know how old it is all the labels are missing etc.
How do I do know which one to get, there are so many options 20-40 etc. How do I know what switch to get for my pump?
Please help
On 2015-05-09 by (mod) -
Yes certainly. Check with your local plumbing supplier.
On 2015-05-06 by Anonymous
Is there a filter that will stop sand? My well has sand and the sand travels through a filter (sand trap), and a water softner. The sand collects in the toilet tanks, the water heater, and in the washer cold water inlet hose.
The filter in the washer fills with sand making the washer inoperable. How do I trap this sand before it gets to the house?
On 2015-04-27 by (mod) - I can I find my pressure tank for my 1996 Schult Mod home?
Nancy
Have you looked below the home?
Have you tried following building water piping backwards?
On 2015-04-25 by Nancy Banta
I can I find my pressure tank for my 1996 Schult Mod home?
On 2015-03-16 by (mod) -
In More Reading links found near the end of this article see WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS. Or. WATER PUMP DIAGNOSTIC TABLE
On 2015-03-16 by laurel
ps a new well pump is nearly $2k! Losing house to foreclosure, really don't feel like giving the bank a gift like that! There must be a temporary gift, we can't live like this for 6 more week. Horrible situation.
thanks so much for your prompt reply! I don't know how to tell if it's submersible. I live in a rural area, the well "head" stands about 10" out of the ground (hard to tell, covered in snow!".
I was thinking an electrician friend of mine might be able to tell from inside the house if there is any power to it? I read on this site that was something to do? Thanks!
On 2015-03-16 by (mod) - test to see if the pump is dead before pulling it from the well
Laurel,
If your pump is a submersible unit in the well your plumber can do some simple electrical tests to see if the pump seems dead or alive before pulling it out.
If your pump is above ground and is damaged a new one will be less trouble to hook up than trying to install a tenporary one.
Let me know what was found.
On 2015-03-16 by laurel
Had frozen pipes 10 days ago for 3 days. Didn't know to turn the well pump off.
When pipes thawed, no h20. went on line & think I burned the well pump out. How can I be sure? And is there such a thing a hooking up a temporary pump? We have no running water or head (had to turn off oil hot water boiler due to no h20 getting to it)
I'm a single woman w/no $. Moving in 6 weeks. There must be a temporary fix. Thanks so much!
...
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