More FAQs about water supply systems, well pumps, water tanks, pump controls, wells, well pumps:

Set 3 of water, well, and water supply equipment frequently-asked questions answer inspection, diagnosis, and repair questions about the building water supply sources and equipment.

Water System Questions & Answers - FAQs #3

These questions & answers were posted originally

at WATER PUMPS, TANKS, TESTS, WELLS, REPAIRS - please be sure to see the diagnosis and repair advice organized there.

Is it OK to use a smaller pipe between water pump and house than the size of the pump outlet pipe?

I have a 300 gallon rainwater cistern, I want to pump the water into my cottage. The 1/2 hp pump I have has a 1" diameter outlet pipe.

The cottage has been plumbed with 1/2" pex pipe.

Can I reduce the size of pipe from the pump outlet to fit the 1/2' pex? On 2020-05-07 by Marty Is it

Answer by (mod) - No. Do not use piping smaller than the pump's outlet fitting.

First, let's identify your water pump brand and model, then find its instruction and installation manual at WATER PUMP & TANK I&O & REPAIR MANUALS .

Next let's summarize the significance of water pump size between pump and house:

Using this Sears jet pump installation manual as an example, SEARS HYDROGLASS SHALLOW WELL JET PUMP OWNER'S MANUAL [PDF] 

we note that the manufacturer says (warning in red is our text):

Watch out: In no case should the offset piping be smaller than the suction tapping of the pump.

Furthermore, just about any well or water pump I/O manual will also tell you that for longer pipe runs we need to increase, rather than decrease the pipe diameter. That's because friction losses in the water line can signficantly impact the water supply rate to the building.

I would pump to a water pressure tank and let the pressure tank feed the house.

Watch out: However it's likely that you need more to do with your water system than just delivering it to the building.

Your cistern may not be capable of ensuring safe potable water. You may need a disinfection system and filtration.

Are pump output rates in gallons per minute additive: can I just add two of them together?

If I have 2 Wells. One is 4gpm one is 6 gpm. If I pump them into one pipe would it be 10 gpm? On 2020-03-11 by Carola

Answer by (mod) - No

Carola

That's almost but not quite correct, because the pump's flow rate in gallons per minute is limtited by restrictions in flow such as

• Pipe length
• Lift height to which water has to be raised
• Friction losses that are due to the pipe diameter
  

See our detailed explanation at WATER PUMP CAPACITIES TYPES RATES GPM 

Well pump only runs if I hold the switch contacts closed

My well pump appears to be working only when I manually hold the contacts on the pressure switch closed. If i let go it never comes on on its own. New pressure switch. Breakers are not tripping.

If no hold the contacts close for a minute or two I will hear water coming though the piping.

The pressure tank always feels light. It has air pressure. If i turn the faucets on I have no water unless I've held the pressure switch down. But the water pressure lasts maybe 30 seconds before I get nothing.

The well driller suggested I need a new pump and parts and labor will cost 4500$ that was over the phone before giving him this diagnosed.

They haven't even looked at anything so I am hesitant to hire them. How can I pinpoint my problem? Could a failed tank cause this ?

I may not be able to find this forum again as I can't find my previous comment. Please feel free to email me tmoldovan93@hotmail.com On 2018-01-20 0 by Trevor

Explanation by (mod) - pump only runs when I hold the pump contacts closed

The switch is new but the sensor pipe that conducts water pressure to it could be clogged, OR you set the tank air charge pressure too high.

See WATER PUMP WON'T START - topic home - for ten things to check  when your well pump won't turn on when you run water.

Flow rate through a RPZ device (reduced pressure zone) also referred to as a backflow valve

I have a street pressure of 46 psi; what should be the flow rate in gpm thru a 4" RPZ (BACKFLOW PREVENTER) ? On 2017-11-01 by kris

by (mod) - ASSE 1013 gives flow rates and capacities up to 750 gpm

An RPZ device (reduced pressure zone) also referred to as a backflow valve such as the

Zurn Wilkins BACK-SIPHONAGE CONTROL 375AST, [PDF] specifications sheet, Zurn Industries, LLC | Wilkins 1747 Commerce Way, Paso Robles, CA U.S.A. 93446  Ph. 855-663-9876, Fax 805-238-5766 In Canada | Zurn Industries Limited 3544 Nashua Drive, Mississauga, Ontario L4V 1L2  Ph. 905-405-8272, Fax 905-405-1292 www.zurn.com retrieved 2018/12/05 original source: http://www.zurn.com/media-library/web_documents/pdfs/specsheets/bf-375ast-pdf

has to meet ASSE 1013, and will have a pressure loss or flow rate chart that is model dependent.

You'll typically see rates with a capacity of up to about 750 gpm with pressure losses up to about 15 psig

I think that before we can try to provide a more precise answer to your question ,we or you'd need to know the diameter and flow capacity of the water supply at the building.

After I wash clothes I only get a trickle of water from faucets etc, but in a while its ok again

I just replaced a well pump that was broken Goulde.

after I wash clothes I only get a trickle of water from faucets etc, but in a while its ok again.

Is this a pressure problem or am I draining the well and it needs to refill. I heard vaguely I might need some other kind of pump inside the house .

what could be the cause of the fix On 2017-10-22 by evelyn corda

Answer by (mod) - how to diagnose and fix water pressure that falls off or stops completely, then later returns on its own

This sounds as if the well is being exhausted. A booster pump in the house would make matters worse as you'd simply be using more water faster.

See a detailed explanation

at WATER PRESSURE STOPS, RETURNS 

Additional useful diagnostics are at WELL FLOW TEST for WATER QUANTITY

and

at WELL YIELD IMPROVEMENT are suggestions for improving the quantity of water you can get out of an existing well

Water pump shut off and won't come back on - I think my well has gone dry

Have an old Myers (House was built in 1983) well with submersible pump.

Was running water into a kids inflatable pool and washing clothes. Water stopped pressure dropped to zero and pump will not come on, Have swapped breakers inside at fuse panel. Have power from panel to pressure switch and from pressure switch to top of well cap.

Have not taken cap off to check wring further. I'm thinking pump is gone or well is dry.What else could be the problem? On 2017-06-04 by phillip

Suggestions by (mod)

Your guess makes sense, though there can be other problems too. If the pump ran dry that could kill it from overheating;

Other possibilities:

- open or broken wire inside the well - watch out about getting killed by shock: be sure power is off when pulling pump or wiring.

- a burst well pipe in the sell

In June our well water gets too salty to use - why?

We had a well dug in 2009 for a summer house.

The well is 600 feet deep, which the driller said was necessary to get a good flow rate. Every sring when we start using the house, the water tastes fresh and good.

Every year about mid June it gets salty, and stays too salty to use for drinking until we close up in November.

Is there a way to solve this salt problem in the existing well, maybe by raising the level where the water s drawn off. We don't need a lot of water, no washing machine or dishwasher, only sinks and a bath tub. On 2016-09-11 by Platt

Answer by (mod) - seasonal drop in the water table into

It sounds to me as if there is both a seasonal drop in the water table into which you're well has been drilled and when the traffickers less desirable water is flowing into your well

If you have adequate water quantity then you may be able to install a water treatment system to remove salt and other undesirable components in the water supply.

Otherwise you may need to drill the well deeper.

What does kPa represent and why is it also displayed with psi?.

My well pump company installed a new pump and pressure tank, the pressure tank is twice the size of the old tank. He also added a pressure gauge to the pump. One month later the gauge face is full of water and I notice the gauge reads 270 kPa in red alongside 37 psi in red.

What does kPa represent and why is it also displayed with psi?..will the water damage the gauge?

Btw, the water pressure in the house is the best it's ever been, and for some reason the hot water is hotter now too; I wonder why would that be? On 2016-04-03 by null0007@gmail.com -

Answer by (mod) - 1 kPa = 0.145038 psi

Null

kPa is an alternative measurement scale for pressure, expressed in Kilopascals, where one kPa is equal to 0.145038 psi or pounds per square inch.

When a pressure gauge shows two or more pressure scales the purpose is to permit use of that gauge in different countries or markets.

kPa is a metric system measurement of pressure used throughout much of the world including both Asia and many European countries. A few countries including Australia and china use MPa, others express pressure in BAR.

If the pressure tank is one that uses an internal bladder in which the water is inside the bladder and air is outside it (the usual but not only design) then the bladder has burst and the gauge is defective - repairs / replacement are needed, I hope under warranty.

The water *pressure* is a function of the pump not the tank. But if the tank bladder has burst chances are the tank will not work properly and the pump may be short cycling on and off - that can damage it.

Increased water temperature won't be due to a new tank or pump.

What does it mean if I can hear water running back to well?

Can hear water running back to well - what's going on? On 2016-01-07 by joe -

Answer by (mod) - bad foot valve or possibly a leak in well piping or a failed snifter valve

Joe

I suspect a bad foot valve or possibly a leak in well piping or a failed snifter valve in the well

Pump runs, pressure goes up, pump turns off, then back on every 30 seconds - and sand is in my water

I have a 405 foot deep well with a 3 hp pump and a bladder tank.

My problem is the pressure keeps rises and cuts off about every 30 seconds.

When I run the irrigation system and now I am getting sand in my water.

What is causing this? On 2015-07-29 by Lillian

Advice by (mod) - check for and fix waterlogged pressure tank

Lillian

It sounds as if your water pressure tank may have lost its air charge - we call that a "waterlogged pressure tank"

Watch out: a waterlogged pressure tank, by causing the pump to short cycle, can indeed lead to pump damage.

See WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING - for details on how to diagnose and fix a waterlogged tank.

Watch out: The sand in the water suggests that your well is running low, you are exceeding its flow rate, or there is a cracked casing.

by Anonymous - Is there a filter that will stop sand?

Is there a filter that will stop sand? My well has sand and the sand travels through a filter (sand trap), and a water softner. The sand collects in the toilet tanks, the water heater, and in the washer cold water inlet hose.

The filter in the washer fills with sand making the washer inoperable. How do I trap this sand before it gets to the house?

by (mod) -

Yes certainly. Check with your local plumbing supplier.

Pump starts as soon as I turn on the water

I have a galvanized tank. The presets on my motor were perfect when I installed it. (Never had to adjust anything)

Recently, I have noticed that as soon as I run my water, the pump cuts on and does not turn off until approximately 30 seconds after I cut the water off.

(I have two teenage sons that love to fix things, need I say more?)

I have completely drained the tank, capped it and refilled it and still to continue to have the same problem. My pressure switch has a cut off and cut on, should I try adjusting these?

It seems my top pressure has not changed (55). Thanks, Will On 2015-05-15 by Will

Explanation by (mod) - signs of a waterlogged water pressure tasnk

Will

Check for a waterlogged pressure tank, burned contacts in the pressure switch, a sticking switch relay, or a damaged or failing pump or pump motor.

How to repair a pressure switch without losing any control fluid?

How can i change a pressure switch without losing any of the control fluid? On 2015-06-20 by just joe

by (mod) - Some pressure control switches have a replacable diaphragm

Joe

Some pressure control switches have a replacable diaphragm on the switch bottom; but disassembling the switch while it is under pressure might cause the diaphragm membrane to rupture.

If you can remove pressure from the system it MIGHT be possible to remove and replace the upper switch assembly without losing fluid.

And some switches also have replaceable electrical contact units that can be changed out similarly.

Steps in diagnosing a pump that would not shut off - fire ants inside the motor!

Hello. I was hoping that you would be able to help me with a well pump problem. Here's the story so far.

Well pump is constantly running with no loss of prime or air tank pressure while off. The pressure gauge on the pump is non-operational. Water pressure at the tap is good.
1/2 Horsepower 2 line jet pump set up for 220 volts with full voltage to the pressure switch.

A new 30/50 pressure switch was installed along with making sure that the tubing for the pressure switch and path into the pump were not clogged. The old pressure switch appeared to be fine.

The tank was removed and the air pressure testing showed 28 psi. The air tank will hold a higher psi with no pressure drop. Filling the tank to 65 psi did not make the pump turn off.

Running the pump with the tank installed would not increase the psi of the tank beyond the standard 28 psi.
A shut off ball valve was installed immediately after the tank to rule out a leak after the well housing. No water is seen or heard dripping from pump or well pipes.

The pump and attached well pipes were removed and no visible signs of damage were observed. The jet/foot valve where placed down hill with the pump uphill and the pump filled with water. No water was observed leaking.

A Schrader valve was installed onto the pump. Compressed air was applied to the schrader valve and the driver water pipe quickly popped off of the jet. This could have been because of too much water was left in the pump so that there wasn't enough of an air bubble to compress. The driver water pipe was pressed back on by hand since it was noticed that the hose clamp was broken and compressed air again applied.

The system was pressurized to 43 psi. The system would slowly lose pressure. Several minutes where required for the psi to drop one pound. Once the system reached 39 psi there was no more pressure loss. Picking up the jet/foot valve caused a rush of air to escape from the suction pipe and the hose clamp on the suction pipe then broke.
Thanks for any help. On 2015-05-11 by Johnny

by (mod) -

I'm a bit confused by some of your diagnostics, such as pumping air into the water pump, and I'd be careful not to overpressurize and blow something up -= which can injure someone.

And some of your description confuses me further as it's not what I expect such as "... too much water was left in the pump" - a pump is normally always full of water unless it has lost its prime.

- if running the pump does not produce water at pressure there is most likely

--- water not entering the pump

--- the pump is damaged internally - such as a damaged impeller

--- water mixed with air (from a leak) is entering the pump

At Continue Reading near the end of this article click the llink ARTICLE INDEX to WATER SYSTEMS & EQUIPMENT to see a complete list of water pressure and pump diagnostic articles.

More pump diagnostic details by Johnny

The purpose of pumping air into the system was to see if there were any leaks that did not show when water was just poured into the pump and allowed to sit for a while with the entire system removed from the well.

I was pointing out that water doesn't compress, so some air would need to be in the system in order to pressurize it to help check for leaks, of which I could find none. The pump was not turned on during the "pressure test". The pump delivers a good volume of water inside the house.

At this time I can only think of two possible causes.

1) The pump is too weak to raise the water pressure beyond 28 psi even though plenty of water is being delivered inside the home. A new pump may be needed.

2) The hose clamps on the jet assembly were rusted out and not clamping the pipe to the assembly well enough. Water was leaking out at the jet assembly under pressure and vibration caused by the pump running.

When the pump was not running and the pressure and vibrations dropped to levels that allowed the pipes to seal well enough so that prime was not lost. Possibly cutting the two pipes shorter to expose “non-stretched” pipe and new hose clamps to prevent leakage.

Any further advice is appreciated.

Thanks,
Johnny

by Mod

Check the pump impeller condition and the voltage.

Confirm no leaks in well piping.

DIY well pump motor repair success story - fireants were shorting out the motor

After a second morning of messing around I got it working correctly. The pipes were shortened and reattached after making sure the jet didn't have any obstructions. The motor was opened up and was found to have a lot of dead fire ants and some white powder which I assume was cement powder.

The motor was blown out with an air compressor. Everything was reinstalled and the system worked like it was supposed to. A new pressure gauge was installed to help monitor the system. I assume the ants where somehow shorting out part of the motor so that it couldn't reach full power. There were no ants anywhere else. On 2015-05-14 by Johnny

Reply by (mod) -

Johnny, what a remarkable repair. I'd have speculated that if the motor was shorted out it'd have been damaged. Nice going. That's a new diagnosis and repair to add to our electric motor repair article. I'll do so.

What I don't understand is that at the beginning of our discussion you said the pump ran but just could not get water pressure above 28 psi. IF the motor was shorted I'd think it'd not run at all.

When you disassembled and cleaned the motor parts did you check the condition of the bearings? Were there any burn indications? Did the parts fit together without wobbling.?

Which pressure switch should I buy for my new well pump?

To irrigate my yard I have a Red Lion RLSP 200, 2hp lawn & turf pump. I want to replace the Square D Pumptrol Pressure Switch I do not know how old it is all the labels are missing etc.

How do I do know which one to get, there are so many options 20-40 etc. How do I know what switch to get for my pump?
Please help On 2015-05-09 by Jennifer Wilson-Doramus

Answer by (mod) - If your system has a pressure gauge you can see at what pressure range it was running

Jennifer

If your system has a pressure gauge you can see at what pressure range it was running. In any event you should be ok with a 20/40 switch - of course I'm only guessing because we don't know a thing about your water supply, well flow rate or other limitations.

To avoid burning up the pump you need

- a working pressure tank on the system (or other special devices that can omit the tank but protect the pump from rapid cycling)

- a pressure control switch that is not set higher than the pump can reach. Most pump control switches are adjustable.

- a water supply that doesn't run dry

...

Continue reading  at WATER PUMPS, TANKS, TESTS, WELLS, REPAIRS or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

For getting help with water related topics: use the search box found near the top or bottom of any InspectApedia article or see the troubleshooting articles listed at each of these topic areas:

WATER SUPPLY SYSTEM FAQs-4 - other questions and answers about fixing water supply systems, wells, equipment

Or see these

Water Pump, Tank & Well Diagnosis & Repair Articles

• AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES
• CHECK VALVES, WATER SUPPLY, DRAINS, PUMPS
• FOOT VALVES
• WATER CONSERVATION MEASURES - home
• WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR - home
• WATER PUMPS, TANKS, TESTS, WELLS, REPAIRS - home
• WATER PUMP REPAIR GUIDE - home
• WATER QUALITY TESTS, CONTAMINANTS, TREATMENT
• WATER SUPPLY & DRAIN PIPING - home
• WATER TANK: USES, TROUBLESHOOTING - home
• WATER TESTS for CONTAMINANTS - home
• WATER TREATMENT EQUIPMENT CHOICES - home
• WELLS CISTERNS & SPRINGS - home

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WATER SUPPLY SYSTEM FAQs-3 at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

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INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to WATER SUPPLY, PUMPS TANKS WELLS

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