Older Q&A about water supply systems, well pumps, water tanks, pump controls, wells, well pumps:

Set 4 of water, well, and water supply equipment frequently-asked questions answer inspection, diagnosis, and repair questions about the building water supply sources and equipment.

Older Water System Questions & Answers - FAQs #4

These questions & answers were posted originally

at WATER PUMPS, TANKS, TESTS, WELLS, REPAIRS - be sure to review that article list for help diagnosing and fixing problems with pumps and wells.

On 2016-11-16 by (mod) - well pipes keep blowing out, we lose water pressure

Sarah

Sounds as if we need a competent well plumber on site. There could be any of several issues: water hammer, insufficient number of checkvalves on a deep well pipe, improper pump pressure control settings, poor quality or poorly installed piping or pipe connections;

Example: if your pump is in the well - each time the pump turns on it causes a rotating twist to the well piping. In a deep well that can abrade, break, or wear the pipe unless special steps are taken to install spacers and torque control to stop the trouble.

Watch out: an incorrectly set water pressure control switch can also cause unsafe and very high pressures downstream from the pump - in the building or at the pressure tank. That's dangerous as not only might you have a leak or flood in the building, but someone may be injured by bursting pipes or pressure tank.

But I can't guess I can only arm-wave. YOu need an onsite expert.

On 2016-11-16 by Sarah:

RE-Posting comment left on somebody's web server's old cc of this article:

AUTHOR:Sarah (no email)

We got our house last year and ever since we have been having issues with our well. We replaced the pump last year and the line keeps getting blowouts, Three times this month so far.

After the second time we replaced the whole line since it was about 20 years old. It was running fine for about two weeks and we ran out of water again this morning and have another hole .

Why would these holes keep happening? We are going to fix the line again but want to know how to keep this from happening in the future. Thanks !

On 2016-10-17 by Anonymous

pump runs a long time to come to pressure

On 2016-10-03 by Earn

I have a submersed well pump and a galvanized hydro-pneumatic pressure tank that keeps getting water logged after about a half days use. I’ve replace the air volume control, the pressure gage and the pressure switch to no avail. This tank has another component that I can find no information on.

The top hole of the tank which is normally plugged has ¼” tubing plumbed back into the water inlet pipe. What is this for and might it be causing my problems if it is not working correctly?

When the switch cuts-in there is about a three second delay before I hear the water gushing into the tank. On cut-out I hear water trickling for 5-10 seconds and the tank loses about 4psi.

On 2016-09-14 by (mod) -

It sounds to me as if there is both a seasonal drop in the water table into which you're well has been drilled and when the traffickers less desirable water is flowing into your well. If you have adequate water quantity then you may be able to install a water treatment system to remove salt and other undesirable components in the water supply. Otherwise you may need to drill the well deeper.

On 2016-09-11 by Platt

We had a well dug in 2009 for a summer house. The well is 600 feet deep, which the driller said was necessary to get a good flow rate.

Every spring when we start using the house, the water tastes fresh and good. Every year about mid June it gets salty, and stays too salty to use for drinking until weclose up in November.

Is there a way to solve this salt problem in the existing well, maybe by raising the level where the water s drawn off. We don't need a lot of water, no washing machine or dishwasher, only sinks and a bath tub.

On 2016-09-04 by Bonnie

We have a 45 foot well there has been no problem in the 3 years of owning this home.

The problem is that when we turn on the outside garden hose for 1/2 hour the pressure is reduced in the house. Than I turn off the breaker switch and than back on all is find. The well company installed a second bladder tank now we have 2 of them. the plumber has cut and replaced pipes no blockage in the lines. We kept thinking it has to be the well pump.

They pulled the pump and said nothing is wrong.

On 2016-05-21 by Vern

Shallow well pump and small bladder tank. Pump runs until reaches correct pressure, then water is available and slowly loses pressure and no water. Even though pump was running as the pressure decreased, it takes a while to get water again and get the pressure up. What needs to be checked?

On 2016-04-28 by (mod) -

We suggest diagnostic procedures for this case, Dale, found by searching InspectApedia.com for WATER PUMP WON'T RUN

On 2016-04-24 by daleupton12

Have power but pump want come on or make any cind of nosie

On 2016-04-16 by (mod) -

Tim it may be that the switch includes a pump protection circuit that is in operation because the well is low on water

On 2016-04-16 by tim

pressure switch only operates manually

On 2016-04-13 by (mod) -

Damsel:

What's the question? If you are asking about the basic wiring of a well pump control, you'll see that right inside the control switch cover.

On 2016-04-13 by (mod) -

RE-posting:

Damsel in didstresse.,please help.., soon (no email)
COMMENT:schematics(wirediagram monitorpanel (circuit-board)importance turns on,/off water pump,heater oump

On 2016-04-04 by (mod) -

Null

If the pressure tank is one that uses an internal bladder in which the water is inside the bladder and air is outside it (the usual but not only design) then the bladder has burst and the gauge is defective - repairs / replacement are needed, I hope under warranty.

The water *pressure* is a function of the pump not the tank. But if the tank bladder has burst chances are the tank will not work properly and the pump may be short cycling on and off - that can damage it.

Increased water temperature won't be due to a new tank or pump.

On 2016-04-03 by null0007@gmail.com

My well pump company installed a new pump and pressure tank, the pressure tank is twice the size of the old tank.

He also added a pressure gauge to the pump. One month later the gauge face is full of water and I notice the gauge reads 270 kPa in red alongside 37 psi in red.

What does kPa represent and why is it also displayed with psi?..will the water damage the gauge? Btw, the water pressure in the house is the best it's ever been, and for some reason the hot water is hotter now too; I wonder why would that be?

On 2016-03-11 by (mod) -

Ray:

I'm disappointed too in the result you describe. Perhaps someone jumped to a pump re-build and switch replacement without adequate diagnosis, OR there may have been a double fault.

Example: if your well pump loses prime OR if your well flow rate is inadequate and those conditions leave the pump running for a long time, the pump impeller or bearings could be damaged, resulting in a pump that will no longer develop pressure.

But if the underlying problem was loss of water in the well, that needs to be identified and addressed.

On 2016-03-11 by (mod) -

Anon: if your well pump won't shut off we have a diagnostic procedure for that problem - search InspectApedia for WATER PUMP WON'T STOP RUNNING =- take a look at that article and do let me know if questions remain.

Daniel

On 2016-03-11 by Ray F

Our pump was not turning off and we went getting water so we turned it off and had it rebuilt and changed the pressure switch but still no water??? We have a private shallow well in a pit out side.

On 2016-03-02 by Jude

We have a pump that moves water uphill to a storage tank, then that water gravity feeds to the house to give us pressure.

The problem we have is that the pump is still working fine, but at reduced capacity.

We could run it for 20mins and it would shift enough water to the top tank for about 1-2 weeks of household use, now we have to pump water up every 1-2 DAYS to cover the needs of the house, without those needs increasing by much. We think the expellers may be worn, and not as efficient? The pressure readings for the pump are still high.

On 2016-01-27 by Anonymous

What is a typical psi setting for home water well pumps. Ours is now reading 58 psi. Our neighbors went down to 45 psi and now reads over 65 psi after sensor replacement. Please advise me.

Rich Serino

On 2016-01-09 by (mod) -

Joe

I suspect a bad foot valve or possibly a leak in well piping or a failed snifter valve in the well

On 2016-01-07 by joe

Can hear water running back to well

On 2015-12-31 by (mod) -

Best would be to leave water off it that's possible (if heat is by a hot water system the boiler must have water)

Search InspectApedia.com for NO WATER PRESSURE to see a diagnostic and repair sheet

On 2015-12-31 y Kevin Fennessy

For a friend...been out of town for a couple of weeks. returned and no water coming from pump.Any suggestions??

On 2015-12-07 by (mod) -

It sounds as if there is a problem with air entering your building piping system - you may also see air discharge at other faucets too.

If you are connected to municipal water ask your water department for help.

If you are on a private well you'll need help from a well plumber to find the source of air leaks or air entry into the system.

On 2015-12-07 by Mary

A week ago I flushed the upstairs toilet, as I stood up there was a loud noise coming from it, I thought something was erupting, made me jump forward; the water did go down. I looked inside the tank and the water appeared cloudy. Today I turned on the cold water faucet in the same bathroom and a large shot of air came out, then the water. I don't know what kind of service people to call? There are no people family or friend wise to help me.

On 2015-12-02 by Guy

I have a private well that is three years old. This is the first work that has been done on it. The circuit breaker, pressure switch and capacitor are new. Here's the problem. The pump will fill the steel tank once in a while without tripping the circuit breaker. I have a 40/60 pressure switch for a deep well that seems to open and close when it is supposed to.

I don't think that there is continual power to that switch. However, there is power occasionally because the tank will fill up once or twice a day after resetting the circuit breaker even though the breaker doesn't trip to the off position. The tank has been drained and has been refilled since it was drained.

When attempting to add air pressure to 38psi, the pressure reached 21psi and began blowing water up through the pump/well cover.

The tank was drained again and refilled with water only. The pump is not filling the tank. The pressure switch is closed. The circuit breaker works. Why doesn't the pump fill the tank like it's supposed to?

On 2015-10-28 by Susan

Should my water be blue when the tub is full. What might it mean when the water comes out blue.

On 2015-10-27 by jerry

have a submersible pump. pump runs all the time pressure wont go past 40psi .change pressure switch still the same

On 2015-10-17 by raven Every 6-7 months the water wreaks of chlorine.

I rent and the water supply is of a spring. Owners are also upon property.

Every 6-7 months the water wreaks of chlorine. Is this a proper method of safe sanitation?.
Fortunately I have a Very good water filter system.

The cat drinks only from pitcher and off the tops of plants, being rainwater. Any hints? Are they shocking holding tank and odor eventually dissipates?

On 2015-08-26 by (mod) -

Sorry we don't have a specific referral; you might check with your local health department or water testing labs if you're having trouble finding water treatment companies in your area.

On 2015-08-26 by Janice C Retherford

We use spring water which is pumped into a tank and then into our house. I buy bottled water for drinking and cooking because I don't trust the quality of our water, although it looks and taste good.

Also, the water has a good bit of debris in it (stems, moss, gravel) which is bad for our plumbiing.

Is there anyone in the Florence, Alabama area that can install a filtered treatment system for our spring water? Thank you for your help.

On 2015-07-29 by (mod) -

Lil

The sand in the water suggests that your well is running low, you are exceeding its flow rate, or there is a cracked casing.

On 2015-07-29 by Lillian

I have a 405 foot deep well with a 3 hp pump and a bladder tank.

My problem is the pressure keeps rises and cuts off about every 30 seconds
when I run the irrigation system and now I am getting sand in my water.
What is causing this.

On 2015-06-21 by (mod) -

Joe

Some pressure control switches have a replacable diaphragm on the switch bottom; but disassembling the switch while it is under pressure might cause the diaphragm membrane to rupture.

If you can remove pressure from the system it MIGHT be possible to remove and replace the upper switch assembly without losing fluid. And some switches also have replaceable electrical contact units that can be changed out similarly.

On 2015-06-21 by (mod) -

Shooleh

As I know nothing whatsoever about your installation, equipment, controls, I'm doubtful that I or someone else can tell you exactly how to wire up controls. Why not ask for help from a licensed plumber or electician? After all there are shock and fire hazards involved in any electrical wiring.

On 2015-06-20 by just joe

how can i change a pressure switch without

out loosing any of the control fluid

On 2015-06-18 by shooleh

Hello,I've read the articles pressure control switch But I did not find the answer.In parallel pumps not find your articles on the subject.please help me

On 2015-06-12 by (mod) -

In the articles above please read the detailed pressure control switch guides beginning at WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH

On 2015-06-12 by shooleh

Dear, danjoeFriedman hello Thank you for your response to my question.My exact question.In an apartment Two water pumps in parallel.who can i adjustment two pressure control switch and How much should I inflate the diaphragm resources?Best regards

On 2015-06-12 by (mod) -

Shoo

Each pump needs its own pressure tank and pressure control switch.

On 2015-06-11 by shooleh

who can i adjustment parallel pumps with two pressure switch?

On 2015-05-18 by (mod) -

Will

Check for a waterlogged pressure tank, burned contacts in the pressure switch, a sticking switch relay, or a damaged or failing pump or pump motor.

On 2015-05-15 by Will

I have a galvanized tank. The presets on my motor were perfect when I installed it. (Never had to adjust anything)

Recently, I have noticed that as soon as I run my water, the pump cuts on and does not turn off until approximately 30 seconds after I cut the water off.

(I have two teenage sons that love to fix things, need I say more?) I have completely drained the tank, capped it and refilled it and still to continue to have the same problem. My pressure switch has a cut off and cut on, should I try adjusting these? It seems my top pressure has not changed (55). Thanks, Will

On 2015-05-14 by (mod) -

Johnny, what a remarkable repair. I'd have speculated that if the motor was shorted out it'd have been damaged. Nice going. That's a new diagnosis and repair to add to our electric motor repair article. I'll do so.

What I don't understand is that at the beginning of our discussion you said the pump ran but just could not get water pressure above 28 psi. IF the motor was shorted I'd think it'd not run at all.

When you disassembled and cleaned the motor parts did you check the condition of the bearings? Were there any burn indications? Did the parts fit together without wobbling.?

On 2015-05-14 by Johnny

After a second morning of messing around I got it working correctly.

The pipes were shortened and reattached after making sure the jet didn't have any obstructions.

The motor was opened up and was found to have a lot of dead fire ants and some white powder which I assume was cement powder. The motor was blown out with an air compressor. Everything was reinstalled and the system worked like it was supposed to. A new pressure gauge was installed to help monitor the system.

I assume the ants where somehow shorting out part of the motor so that it couldn't reach full power. There were no ants anywhere else.

On 2015-05-12 by Anonymous

Check the pump impeller condition and the voltage.

Confirm no leaks in well piping.

Also see PIPE / HOSE CLAMP LEAK REPAIR

On 2015-05-12 by Anonymous

The purpose of pumping air into the system was to see if there were any leaks that did not show when water was just poured into the pump and allowed to sit for a while with the entire system removed from the well.

I was pointing out that water doesn't compress, so some air would need to be in the system in order to pressurize it to help check for leaks, of which I could find none. The pump was not turned on during the "pressure test". The pump delivers a good volume of water inside the house.

At this time I can only think of two possible causes.


1) The pump is too weak to raise the water pressure beyond 28 psi even though plenty of water is being delivered inside the home. A new pump may be needed.

2) The hose clamps on the jet assembly were rusted out and not clamping the pipe to the assembly well enough.

Water was leaking out at the jet assembly under pressure and vibration caused by the pump running. When the pump was not running and the pressure and vibrations dropped to levels that allowed the pipes to seal well enough so that prime was not lost. Possibly cutting the two pipes shorter to expose “non-stretched” pipe and new hose clamps to prevent leakage.

Any further advice is appreciated.

Thanks,
Johnny

On 2015-05-12 by (mod) -

I'm a bit confused by some of your diagnostics, such as pumping air into the water pump, and I'd be careful not to overpressurize and blow something up

-= which can injure someone. And some of your description confuses me further as it's not what I expect such as "... too much water was left in the pump"

- a pump is normally always full of water unless it has lost its prime.

- if running the pump does not produce water at pressure there is most likely

--- water not entering the pump

--- the pump is damaged internally - such as a damaged impeller

--- water mixed with air (from a leak) is entering the pump

at CONTINUE READING click the llink ARTICLE INDEX to WATER SYSTEMS & EQUIPMENT to see a complete list of water pressure and pump diagnostic articles.

On 2015-05-11 by Johnny

Hello. I was hoping that you would be able to help me with a well pump problem. Here's the story so far.
Well pump is constantly running with no loss of prime or air tank pressure while off.

The pressure gauge on the pump is non-operational. Water pressure at the tap is good.

1/2 Horsepower 2 line jet pump set up for 220 volts with full voltage to the pressure switch. A new 30/50 pressure switch was installed along with making sure that the tubing for the pressure switch and path into the pump were not clogged. The old pressure switch appeared to be fine.

The tank was removed and the air pressure testing showed 28 psi. The air tank will hold a higher psi with no pressure drop. Filling the tank to 65 psi did not make the pump turn off. Running the pump with the tank installed would not increase the psi of the tank beyond the standard 28 psi.

A shut off ball valve was installed immediately after the tank to rule out a leak after the well housing. No water is seen or heard dripping from pump or well pipes.
The pump and attached well pipes were removed and no visible signs of damage were observed. The jet/foot valve where placed down hill with the pump uphill and the pump filled with water. No water was observed leaking.

A Schrader valve was installed onto the pump. Compressed air was applied to the schrader valve and the driver water pipe quickly popped off of the jet. This could have been because of too much water was left in the pump so that there wasn't enough of an air bubble to compress.

The driver water pipe was pressed back on by hand since it was noticed that the hose clamp was broken and compressed air again applied. The system was pressurized to 43 psi.

The system would slowly lose pressure. Several minutes where required for the psi to drop one pound.

Once the system reached 39 psi there was no more pressure loss. Picking up the jet/foot valve caused a rush of air to escape from the suction pipe and the hose clamp on the suction pipe then broke.
Thanks for any help.

On 2015-05-09 by (mod) -

Jennifer


If your system has a pressure gauge you can see at what pressure range it was running. In any event you should be ok with a 20/40 switch - of course I'm only guessing because we don't know a thing about your water supply, well flow rate or other limitations.

To avoid burning up the pump you need

- a working pressure tank on the system (or other special devices that can omit the tank but protect the pump from rapid cycling)

- a pressure control switch that is not set higher than the pump can reach. Most pump control switches are adjustable.

- a water supply that doesn't run dry

On 2015-05-09 by Jennifer Wilson-Doramus

To irrigate my yard I have a Red Lion RLSP 200, 2hp lawn & turf pump. I want to replace the Square D Pumptrol Pressure Switch I do not know how old it is all the labels are missing etc. How do I do know which one to get, there are so many options 20-40 etc. How do I know what switch to get for my pump?
Please help

On 2015-05-09 by (mod) -

Yes certainly. Check with your local plumbing supplier.

On 2015-05-06 by Anonymous The sand collects in the toilet tanks,

Is there a filter that will stop sand? My well has sand and the sand travels through a filter (sand trap), and a water softner.

The sand collects in the toilet tanks, the water heater, and in the washer cold water inlet hose. The filter in the washer fills with sand making the washer inoperable. How do I trap this sand before it gets to the house?

On 2015-04-27 by (mod) -

Nancy

Have you looked below the home?

Have you tried following building water piping backwards?

On 2015-04-25 by Nancy Banta

I can I find my pressure tank for my 1996 Schult Mod home?

On 2015-03-16 03:38:49.368780 by (mod) -

In ARTICLE INDEX see WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS. Or. WATER PUMP DIAGNOSTIC TABLE

On 2015-03-16 by laurel

ps a new well pump is nearly $2k! Losing house to foreclosure, really don't feel like giving the bank a gift like that! There must be a temporary gift, we can't live like this for 6 more week. Horrible situation.

On 2015-03-16 by laurel

thanks so much for your prompt reply! I don't know how to tell if it's submersible. I live in a rural area, the well "head" stands about 10" out of the ground (hard to tell, covered in snow!". I was thinking an electrician friend of mine might be able to tell from inside the house if there is any power to it? I read on this site that was something to do? Thanks!

On 2015-03-16 by (mod) -

Laurel,

If your pump is a submersible unit in the well your plumber can do some simple electrical tests to see if the pump seems dead or alive before pulling it out.

If your pump is above ground and is damaged a new one will be less trouble to hook up than trying to install a tenporary one.

Let me know what was found.

On 2015-03-16 by laurel

Had frozen pipes 10 days ago for 3 days. Didn't know to turn the well pump off. When pipes thawed, no h20. went on line & think I burned the well pump out. How can I be sure?

And is there such a thing a hooking up a temporary pump? We have no running water or head (had to turn off oil hot water boiler due to no h20 getting to it). I'm a single woman w/no $. Moving in 6 weeks. There must be a temporary fix. Thanks so much!

...

Continue reading  at WATER PUMPS, TANKS, TESTS, WELLS, REPAIRS or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see WATER SUPPLY SYSTEM FAQs-5 - more-recently posted questions and answers about fixing water supply systems, wells, equipment

Or see these

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• WATER PUMP REPAIR GUIDE - home
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