Use an air eliminator device to fix air bubbles in water or air coming out of faucets:

This article describes cures & devices for removing fine air bubbles in the building water supply, bubbles in hot water, or air discharge at plumbing fixtures. After reminding you to make the correct diagnosis of the cause of air in the potable water supply, we list devices and approaches to removing it or preventing its entry in the first place. At page top: our photo shows fine air bubbles in the discharge at a sink faucet. These may be normal or they might indicate a problem.

This article series describes the causes of air discharging from building water supply piping or plumbing fixtures or the sources of excess air in water pressure tanks, water supply piping, or other plumbing fixtures.

Cures Air Bubbles in Water or Air Discharge Bursts at Plumbing Fixtures

Types of Air Eliminators for Potable Water Supply Systems

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Reader Question: how to get rid of fine bubbles in water from a deep water well

2016/06/08 Mike P said:

We have very deep bedrock well - 385 ft deep. It produces 16 GPM. From the beginning the water has been full of small bubbles. I am almost certain the bubbles are not mechanically produced as they occur when water is drawn directly from the well manifold before reaching any of the faucets and filtration systems.

There are so many bubbles when water is drawn from the manifold it is milky white, not just cloudy. It takes well over a minute for a 20 OZ glass of water to clear.

When the bubbles dissipate the water is crystal clear. If I put my ear to the glass I can hear the effervescence of the bubbles releasing. I don't believe there is a problem with the pump. The water pressure is outstanding and the entire water system is new.

Again we have had this problem from the very beginning ~ 4 years ago. It seems most likely there are gases dissolved in the water under tremendous pressure and cold at 385 ft below surface.

The gas is not methane (won't ignite) and has no odor. It seems unlikely it is radon as we have been living here for 5 years with no ill effects. We have installed a pressure relief valve right after the manifold but I believe the water passing the valve does not have enough time for the gas to release at that point.

There is so much air/gas in the water that our toilet on the upper level of or home (highest release point) sputters as the gas is released through the toilet valve. Initially we thought the problem was related only to hot water but obviously the toilet does not run on hot water.

I have read that installing a "holding tank" for the bubbles to release before water enters the water system may be one solution. I'd like to avoid that if possible as I have limited space in my mechanical room. Would it make sense to install a pressure release valve at the upstairs toilet as that seems to be where the air pressure "wants" to release? Any other suggestions?

Reply: causes & cures of fine air bubbles in water from a deep well

Mike

I've seen these ultra-fine bubbles in water in both private wells and public water supplies, and it's a common problem discussed among well installers and plumbers.

When I see a murky white mist in the water supply at the tap, first I confirm that it's air, not sediment by filling a clear pitcher of water and watching to see the bubbles disappear. That may take time, from one to even five minutes or more.

Be sure to check out AIR DISCHARGE from HOT WATER .

Then,

Watch out: First be sure that we have correctly diagnosed the cause of fine air bubbles in the water supply or of air bursts or discharge at faucets or toilets or shower heads.

See AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES where we list the causes of air in potable water piping or at fixtures - a problem that can occur on both well water systems and municipal water systems. Our photo above illustrates pinhole leaks in brass fittings on plastic water supply piping.

Your argument that bubbles come from dissolved gases is an interesting and credible one Mike and one that we need to discuss in more detail.

At GASES in WELL WATER we introduce the topic and list common gases (besides methane or radon) that may be in your well water.

At 450 feet we certainly could have gases in water that change from dissolved to bubble state when the water reaches the surface.

At any depth below about 30 feet the pressure is greater than 1 atmosphere and we begin to see problems with gases that are dissolved in water. SCUBA divers understand very well the problem of "the bends" - a dangerous illness that can occur when gases dissolved into the blood (from breathing pressurised air at depths below 30 feet) emerge when the diver ascends to the lower ambient pressure of the surface.

Pressure relief valves for air bubbles?

You suggested installing a pressure relief valve to address this problem in your plumbing system. A typical water system pressure relief valve shouldn't have any effect on the bubbles: that type of valve on a water system opens at pressures higher than the tank is intended to survive.

But your pump's pressure control switch is stopping the pump well before the water pressure exceeds the tank pressure (unless someone has done something unsafe and unusual). So a conventional water pressure relief valve or even a temperature/pressure relief valve won't act as an air eliminator.

Holding tanks for removing air bubbles?

A simple water pressure tank or water holding tank alone, without additional key devices, may accumulate air but eventually that accumulated air will reach enough pressure to emerge at plumbing fixtures where it can be annoying at best.

The holding tank solution presumes that water has enough time in the tank (basically a larger pressure tank) for gases to exit the water; older pressure tanks that use an air volume control rather than an internal bladder will release excess air (or gas) through the AVC automagically; newer water tanks that use an internal bladder will accumulate air until its pressure and volume send it out through the house piping.

Thence it's reaching and misbehaving at the toilet; you might also see air discharge at faucets as we discuss in the article above.

What we both should look for is a float-operated automatic air purger or a model of the Honeywell Spirovent that also purges air and may be longer-term more reliable. At a convenient location (or more than one if experience shows its needed) you'd install a tee in a horizontal line, a vertical riser pipe of a height that's convenient and fits - perhaps a foot or two - topped by the automatic air purger.

The principle is that actual air bubbles flowing along with water in the horizontal line will move up through the tee and out at the air purger.

Heating system type float valve or spiro-valve air purgers?

You can't use a standard heating system automatic air purger, as those valves typically tolerate pressures only up to 40 or 45 psi. So we need to find a model that operates in the pressure range of your water system, or perhaps between 20 psi and 80 psi as I doubt there's a home water system that should be operating at pressures higher than that.

Take a look at the Spirovent from Spirotherm, or their Spirotop, a solar application that is specifically designed to elminate micro bubbles. Spirotherm, Inc. The company's product literature doesn't seem to mention the PSI operating range. Some solar systems operate at relatively low pressure so the operating pressure range is a key question to ask. If this product isn't suitable and the company can't recommend one that is, we'll look further.

Heating system air purgers are needed to prevent loss of heat from air-bound heating piping or boilers, radiators, or baseboards. That's because a conventional hot water (hydronic) heating system circulator pump can't reliably push large boluses of air around through the loop of heating piping. Details about these devices are at AIR BLEEDER VALVES [for heating systems] - but that's not what you want for air in the potable water supply.

Devices & Suggestions for Air Elimination from the Potable Water Supply: get rid of unwanted bubbles or air bursts at fixtures

Above: an example of an air eliminator tank installation, adapted from Lancaster Water Treatment Company's instructions for their Model 230-1248 Air Eliminator Tank. Contact information is given just below.

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• Air Elimination Tanks on Water Systems: A provider of the air eliminator tank you mentioned earlier (and don't want because of your space limitations) is Lancaster Water Treatment. But the tank and air elimination system can go almost anywhere on the main incoming water line that's downstream of the pressure tank, so perhaps it fits elsewhere for you.

  • Lancaster Water Treatment, CB Tool Co., 1340 Manheim Pike, Lancaster PA 17601, Tel: 717-397-3521, http://lancasterpump.com/ Original source: Model 230-1248 Air Eliminator Tank, lancasterpump.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/230-12481.pdf

Above: APCO's Combination Air Valve described just below.

• Air Elimination Valves, Float Valves, Vents: operating on several principles, the simplest of which is a vertical stand pipe and float vent, automatic valves can collect and vent air when properly located and mounted on building cold and/or hot water piping.
  
  Watch out: be sure to select an air elminator vent or float designed to operate at the temperature and pressure range of your water supply system. Some heating system low-pressure float vents operate only up to about 40 or 45 psi and would not be appropriate for a potable water supply air elimination device. But often those same companies can provide an air eliminator vent that is indeed suited for water supply systems.

  For an in-depth approach to the engineering behind and devices to correct finely entrained air bubbles in potable water I like to start at APCO's Air Valve Guide cited immediately below.
  You can contact the company directly at Apco / DeZurik / Williamette at 250 Riverside Ave. N. Sartell, Minnesota 56377, Phone: 320-259-2000., Website: www.dezurik.com

  • APCO's Air Valves, see APCO Air Valve Guide, original source: www.dezurik.com/files/3313/5731/8371/apco-air-valve-guide-610.pdf
    Above: we illustrate APCO's Combination Air Valve (ASU) capable of operating at pressures from 2 to 150 psi or 2 to 300 psi, and that the company describes as follows:
    
    APCO Single Body Combination Air Valves (ASU) can be used for clean or dirty services. The unique venting design provides varied and predictable air flow over a wide range of air release and air/vacuum conditions.
    
    A large diameter Air/Vacuum Disc provides high volume air flow for rapid venting during pipeline filling and allows high volumes of air to enter the pipeline during draining. During normal pipeline flow conditions, the dual-range air release design prevents air build up and resultant flow restrictions under changing conditions and through the full flow range.
  • Honeywell provides a Supervent (again designed for heating systems) for which we also need pressure information.
  • Spirotherm makes other air eliminators besides the type used on solar or hydronic heating sytems; they're worth asking. You want a Spirotherm rated for 150 psi - or something in that range.
    Spriotherm 25 N. Brandon Drive Glendale Heights, IL 60139 Tel.: 630-307-2662 Fax: 630-307-3773 Website: www.spirotherm.com E-mail: info@spirotherm.com
  • Taco whom we think of as a heating component supplier, has a Taco 4900 series vent rated up to 150 PSI and 240F.
  • FMC Technologies is another air eliminator source. FMC Technologies, 5875 N. Sam Houston Pkwy. W. , Houston TX 77086 Phone: (281) 591 4000
  • Other air eliminator providers: Webstone, Caleffi. But these too focus on heating systems.
• Microbubble air scrubbers & resorbers: Air comes out of suspension particularly at the water heater tank. So some plumbers put a microbubble resorber on the cold water line at the entry to the building and add an air outlet above the domestic hot water heating tank where dissolved gasses particularly come out of suspension in hot water.
  
  If you see more air in the hot water than cold this may be diagnostic.
  
  See details at AIR DISCHARGE from HOT WATER
• Snifter Valve + AVC systems: Older bladderless water pressure tanks used on a well with a submersible pump used a snifter valve system that both injected air into the water system at each pump on cycle (to maintain proper air charge in the pressure tank) and released excess air at the AVC at the end of the pump cycle.

Remove Air in the Water Supply or Find & Fix the Cause?

It's worth asking for help from an expert water supply systems plumber or well contractor to do what you can to find and fix any leak or mechanical problem before treating the remaining symptom with an air removing system.

I don't love the idea of leaving a leak in well piping or equipment to fester as I worry that it may grow in size and impact, being temporarily covered over by the "solution" we added-on to the system.

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Reader Q&A - also see RECOMMENDED ARTICLES & FAQs

On 2017-05-17 - by (mod) - we do not offer paid consulting

Thanks for the comment, Mike. You can find our email at the page top or bottom CONTACT link.

As editor I'm probably to "blame" for the article you cite. However we do not offer paid consulting services, out of a need to avoid even the apparent possibility of a conflict of interest with what's published here at InspectApedia.com

Daniel

On 2017-05-17 1by Mike P

I wrote a lengthy question regarding bubbles in my well water last year. Someone took the time to published it along with a lengthy response which I appreciate very much. The article was Air Eliminators & Vents Use an Air Eliminator to Remove Air Bubbles in Water & Stop Air Discharge from Plumbing Fixtures.

I'd like to contact to respondent to investigate further and possible arrange service but don't know how to reach him.

On 2017-04-12 - by (mod) - shocking new well pump installation

Tim

This wiring sounds dangerous to me, risking death by electrocution. If you were getting shocked by a pump circuit and stopped getting shocked once the circuit was "grounded" that is NOT a proper electrical repair, though it was an important safety improvement.

Whatever live current was finding its way through you to earth (shocking you ) might now be finding its way to earth through the grounding conductor - NOT a wire that should normally be carrying current - shock risks remain.

(I suspect mis-wiring or shorted neutral wiring but can't possibly know by e-text).

Even in water-tight piping we sometimes see fine air bubbles ascribed to agitation (or perhaps a pump impeller) that dissipate after a minute or two. Usually in cold water that problem disappears.

On 2017-04-11 by Tim

I just installed a new sumerged well pump, 135' deep shorted line 10 feet as had water at 60' and old line was muddy looking at bottom few feet, would get some mud from old pump at times, or residue not pure brown water.

installed new pump went from 3/4hp to 1 hp. hooked up and worked but here is where it get strange. the metal pipe with shut valve and pipe to bladder tank would shock me if I touched it.

Thought I had skinned wire putting it back in. pulled again. put new wire and water pipe. reconnected.. still would shock me. called a electrian freind. the pressure switch was not grounded. he connected a wire to ground and grounded to metal pipe and no more shock.

Thought all is well,,LOL
water works good no problem, good pressure much better then before old pump died. but water in glass is milky. it is millions of tiny bubbles and will clear in few seconds, 10 or 15. taste fine.

Checked out side water outlet for hose. it is fine and no bubbles. this water comes from pvc pipe after bladder tank and off supply line that goes in whole house. but in sink it is milky, wife cant stand it and demands I fix it. took strainer out of fauct thought it could be that. but no difference. still milky.

in bathroom sink same. odd the bath tub is not as bad. toilet is clear but think bubble leave out of holding tank. so not fair check
the system has a pressure bladder tank, then to a water filter, 2 upright round cylinder tanks with a timer for a back wash (was in house when bought house

but did not work and would manual move timer to make it back flush. ) when has shocking problem and grounded pressure swtich timer started working and was back flushing 1 time a day. I disconnected it. thought that was the problem. did not help.

water then goes to hot water heater and cold out to house.
what is causing this.?

not a suction leak as it is a submerged pump. why would start after new pump? no leaks in pumping that I see. driving me crazy i could live with it, but wife said fix it or else LOL

Reader Comment:

(Nov 15, 2012) Jim Rotella said:
I couldn't have asked for a better or more complete diagnostic of my problem concerning air escaping my fixtures. I now have an excellent guide from my shallow well and submersible pump through the pneumatic pump tank and to the fixures. Thanks for the education.

(Apr 21, 2015) Wayne said:
Just wanted to say what a well written article this is. Get it? "Well" written! Thanks!

Question: Air bursts coming out of plumbing, & my well pump won't shut off

I have a 3/4 Hp 120v single line shallow well pump for my house. The well head is located about 50ft from pump. I also have a well mate water pressure tank with good pressure in it. I have live in this house for 3 years and have had no problems with water supply or pressure to the house. I have check the pump pressures in the past being 30psi for pump to turn on and 53psi to turn off pump.

I can hear the pump run while taking a shower as its just on the other side of the wall. and normally the pump will run once and shut off while the shower is still running. It was normal up until 2 days ago.

Now my pump with come on and will not shut off while the shower is running. Also I am getting air busts out of every fixture. I have turned down the off pressure to the pump to 45psi and this seems to help sum. I can hear the pump cavitating and the cavitation and air busts seam to be worse the higher the pressure goes higher.

I have a check valve in the supply line to the pump about 10inchs from the pump. I have no drop in pressure after 4hrs of running no water. My question is where is the air coming from? Could my pump be going bad and cavitating that much air into my system?

Or does there have to be an air hole in my pipe somewhere between my pump and foot valve? or could my well low on water? How do I diagnose this problem? - Thanks Derek

Reply: deteriorated well flow rate, well piping leak, or other?

Derek, regarding your question about well pump not shutting off:

The air bursts coming out of your plumbing suggest that either the well flow rate has deteriorated (the pump is getting ahead of the rate at which water flows into the well) or there is a leak in the well piping (air leaks into the piping when the pump is not running).

If it were a pipe leak and given you've got a one-line jet pump, you might eventually find the pump loses prime and you get no water at all (don't let the pump keep running dry or it may be damaged).

But unfortunately I suspect that the well flow rate has deteriorated.

Check to see if the water pressure continues to drop after the pump has turned itself off and when you are NOT running more water in the house. If so there's a leak in the piping or a bad check valve or foot valve.

Take a look at our diagnostic suggestions at WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING

If not, bad news, lost well water.

Question: air discharge in plumbing traced to well piping leaks

I got same problem last time it turned out to be leak in the threads on the pipe between he well and intake side of my pump having problems again about a month still cant figure it out might have to call a well pro. - Shu

Reply:

Thanks Shu. Indeed leaks in well piping between the well and the building can introduce air into the piping. We've added this tip to our sources of air discharge at fixtures.

Question: air out of fixtures - artesian well feeds holding tank pumped then into building

I have been getting air out of my fixtures for the last month. My system is "unique" I have a artesian well that constantly drips water at a low volume/pressure into a underground holding tank then a shallow well jet pump sucks that out of the tank and fills an old bladder-less tank.

Normally when my underground tank is full my runoff line drips out the excessive water, but lately my jet pump has not been cycling on and off it seems like it is just pumping water somewhere and running my underground tank empty, if I unplug my pump the tank will fill and runoff after 2 hours or so.

I have replaced my pump and my air volume control with very little or on change. When I unplug my pump and turn it back on after 2 hours it runs fine and with good pressure for a few hours and reverts back to staying on and sucking my underground tank dry. Got any Ideas? - Devin Snyder

Reply:

Devin I'd check for a leak on the water supply system piping. Start looking carefully at the piping between the water storage tank and the building. I'm guessing that your shallow well jet pump is located in the building where it pressurizes a bladderless water pressure tank.

A leak in water piping on the inlet side of the jet pump can suck air into the water lines when the pump is drawing water from the storage tank.

Or of course there may be some other snafu we haven't thought of. Keep us posted - what you find will help other readers.

Question:

(Dec 26, 2011) ray said:

well shut down no water pressure pump will not run
think it might be the pressure switch did check the fuse both look good

Reply:

Ray, at another web page we made some suggestions about testing the pressure switch = also see WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR

 

Question: air from flushing toilets, taking a shower, turning on faucets,

(Apr 21, 2012) Tara said:

Hi, We have air coming from our pipes. We experience the air from flushing the toilets, taking a shower and turning on faucets. It happens on a daily basis although not every time we run the water. We had our bladder tank replaced in August because the well pump would cycle on when there was no water running in the house. The plumber said we had a bad tank and valve, so he replaced both the tank and the valve.

That seemed to fix the problem of the well pump running when it shouldn't; however, ever since the plumber did his work we now have air in our lines. The plumber's only response was that he would have to pull the well pump up to investigate. That seems extreme to me. The plumber did not respond to any further contact I tried to make with him, so we've just been dealing with the air in the line hoping it would correct itself. Thank you.

(Oct 5, 2012) SUZ said:

I have the same problem with periodic Air - Water spurting from ALL faucets, but then there is NO Water at all..anywhere in the house. This could go on for an hour or as little as a few minutes.

My Husband thinks it is because we have more people in the house, but even on days, we may do only 1 Load of Laundry and 1 Shower..there it is all over again.. What could it be? We have a Well And a Water Softener of course.

Reply:

Tara, This sounds like an air volume control that is intermittently sticking, perhaps a float type. What valve was replaced by the plumber?

Suz: the correlation with increased air in the plumbing system when there are more people using water argues for a problem with the air volume control or air loss at the pressure tank, or both. Your water tank is losing air and the AVC is not restoring it.

If your well uses a shifter valve and is also low on water, perhaps due to heavy usage, the condition you describe might be explained. Take a look at Richard's comment just below.

Question: well system full of air, hissing found at well cover near the pitless adapter

(June 25, 2012) Richard H. said:

My well/water system in my home is full of air. My well water is low PH, acidic. It does not like carbon steel. The well is about 180' deep, and the pump should be at about 140'. The water level in the was at 100', but has not been checked recently. My well pump is 1 HP, 2 wire.

My bladder tank is a 60 gallon size. The well switch is set at 40-60 PSI. The tank pressure is about 2 PSI less than cut in pressure. I still have air pressure in the tank and no water at the air valve. I was told by the plumber that replaced the current pump, about four years ago, that he installed a check valve on the pump side of the pitless adapter.

I can remove the well cover and it sounds like a hissing noise, probably near the pitless adapter, so you would assume a leak. Last night I tripped the pump breaker and isolated the pressure tank from the house. The pressure gauge read about 50 PSI. If there was a leak back to the pump, the tank should bleed down over night. It didn't. The gauge was still at about 50 PSI. I opened the supply valve to the house and tripped the breaker on.

The pump ran once the water pressure dropped, but the line was full of air, lots of air. Once the pump ran for awhile, the air noise went away and the pump then reached pressure and shut off. The house lines are still full of air. I assume there was a built-in check valve on the pump.

If so, could this have failed, causing water to run back to the pump? Maybe the check valve at the pitless adapter is bad too, or can't hold that amount of water in the pipe. I'm kind of lost trying to figure this out.

Reply: check the snifter valve

Richard, search InspectApedia for "snifter valve" or for the article titled "How to Find & Repair the Water Tank Air Volume Control Device " - hissing could be at that device if one is installed in your well.

I agree with the test you performed, but a check valve in the well piping could prevent pressure from falling in the system.

I'm guessing (from afar with little info) that there is a snifter valve in the well that allows makeup air into the system but there is no vent to remove excess air from the system at the pressure tank - that snafu can occur when an older bladderless water tank (that used a snifter valve and vent at the water tank) is replaced with a new internal bladder pressure tank while forgetting to remove the snifter valve on the well piping - that will keep injecting excessive air into the system.

Question:

Dec 14, 2012) Altitude Problem? said:

I had to replace amixing valve faucet in one bathroom yesterday and since then the jet pump goes on & off every 10 mins.Ihave purged all air from the lines to no avail.I supect a problem with the 40 gall blue tank next to the pump.There is water in the pressure tank,but I am not sure if I need to introduce air to correct this problem.Please advise.Altitude here is 6500 Feet.Thanks,Mike B

Reply:

Altitude - Mike B.

I can't figure how changing a mixing valve on water supply piping would trigger a rapid cycling of the water pump unless you left a leak flowing somewhere. But about adding air, and short-cycling well pumps,

take a look at the two diagnostic articles in the ARTICLE INDEX titled

WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING

and

SHORT CYCLING DIAGNOSIS TABLE

Question: Air discharge from faucets - second opinion

(Dec 20, 2012) cornelius said:

I would appreciate a second opinion. I have been having off and on air discharge in my faucets. I have a well and also municipal water supplying my property. The well has a submersible pump and a tank similar to a Wellmate.

The tank is less than a year old, I don't recall the size. The pump is 1.5 hp. The municipal water is only pressured on the town's end. The only pressure it would get from my side would involve the tank.

My property is like a rental and has 8 full bathrooms, plus a few extra sinks being supplied. Not sure if that info is important. The discharge has been in faucets, toilets, and showers so it shouldn't be a fixture or aerator issue.

I have shut the valve off just outside my tank on the section of pipe that feeds my property. Leaving only the pipe that is connected to the pump open. In about one hours time I have only seen a pressure drop from about 50psi to maybe 48 or 47psi, and most of that was right after I shut off the valve.

With only municipal water supplying the property right now I don't have air discharge. But no pressure drop from the tank is leading me to believe the check valve between my well and pump is fine. Is there any other isolating I could do that would give me an idea of a leak in the pipe from the pump or the foot valve at the pump?

I have on occasion been successful by allowing the tank to refill fully before opening the valve up. Then after a power outage it may go back to air discharge. It's possible it doesn't even require a power outage. I do also have to cut off the connection between the municipal line and my well from time to time as I have a pool, and when it needs water if the well is running it often leads to sediment in the pool water.

You may also want to know that all pipe is pvc as I live in a tropical climate and there is no issue with freezing. I have had leaks in the pipe heading into the well before but generally it would short cycle when that was the case. Thanks.

I just noticed after re-opening the valve from the tank that when the pump is on and the pressure is rising there seems to be an addition of air in the pipes. I have two concerns regarding the well. First, that we are coming off a very dry year where I live, secondly we had a massive earthquake that was reported to have raised a large amount of actual land an entire meter. So, I'm concerned about the well being either dryer(lower) or the pump being raised in comparison to the well water.

Or worst of all that the aquifer is losing water since the earthquake. I didn't bring those issues up first as I wanted to see if there wasn't more local ways to isolate and diagnose. Obviously there could be air entering through other means and I would be gracious to hear how I can figure out which means exactly. Thanks, again.

Question: spurting water, poor water pressure or flow, air discharge at some taps or fixtures

(Jan 29, 2013) Evelyn j said:

We have spurting water and air at the hard water tap but not the other taps. The hard water line is the first line off from the well and this line goes straight up. When the power goes off all the taps have spurting issues for a while so this is different.

This issue with the hard water tap occurred once before about eight weeks ago and then quit after a few days. We were away for six weeks and turned the water off to the house. Have been home for four days and yesterday would have been a higher water usage day, but the spurting only started this morning.

The hard water tap worked fine at ten last night. It seems like the bladder tank is working fine. Any suggestions re likely cause?

(Mar 4, 2013) Jason said:

I have air that surges out of my cold hard water faucet's. Started happening shortly after a Culligan Water softener was installed. Called Culligan and they see the softener has nothing to do with it. Thanks for help 

(Mar 25, 2013) Matt said:

I have a simIar problem. About 30 seconds after my well pump cuts on at 40 psi there is spurt of air. Shortlt after that spurt the tank rebuilds pressure and everything is fine. The spurts though are a problem in the showers and at appliances in home. The Problem started after I replaced the old water tank And the joints seem tO be air tight. Cut in is 40 cut out 65 and psi in tank set at 38. What would the reason for the air in lines?

Reply:

Jason, they're probably right in that a softener would not normally introduce air into the water system piping; and if there were a leak that let air in, I figure it would probably let water out - you'd see a water leak.

Can you confirm that your system is on a private well?
Have you checked the air volume control?

Matt

Sometimes I see this problem when there is a submersible well pump that used a snifter valve as part of the air volume control system- that approach has an air inlet on the well piping inside the well that needs to be removed when changing over to a captive air tank. There may also be an above ground air volume control to be removed.

Question: water supply stops, then continues, lots of air in water

(May 30, 2014) Melissa said:
Just moved into new home about a month ago. Water pressure has been fine, other then occasionally the water would be coming out of the faucet, stop for a couple seconds and continue on. We recently had a UV system installed due to bacteria in the water. Now all water sources (sinks, tub, toilets) have a LOT of air in them - mostly air is being pushed out of the faucet and we did notice a few spurts of the water were brown in color.

Our well is 112' deep and the previous owners had it fracked within the past couple years (their complaint was low water pressure). Could we be out of well water?

Reply:

Hi Melissa,

Your well could be running low - the fact that the well was hydro-fractured suggests that it has a history of running out of water.

As it's a deep well, probably using a submersible pump, a second source of air could be an old snifter valve on the well piping inside the well (something to ask your well repair company about if they pull the well piping), or the companion vent and air volume controls back at the pressure tank could be allowing excess air into the system.

Unfortunately, given the history you cite I speculate it's the first problem

A very rough diagnostic might be the following: if you see that your water is not air-filled and seems more normal after the well has rested over night (or longer, giving it time to recover), that'd suggest a low flow rate problem in the well .

Other problems such as a leak in well piping can also cause this trouble (though less likely)
A more accurate check would be a well flow test.

One more thing: some hydrofracking companies warrant their work (promising an increased yield) - but I don't know for what period. Something to check into.

Keep me posted.

Question: sputtering faucets when toilet is flushed - air blamed on washing machine, municipal water supply

7/24/14 Christina said:
sputtering faucet and toilet when flushed in upstairs bathroom. We have municipal water supply - no well.

We have bled the pipes but problems return. We think that old washing machine could be culprit but previous owners had no problems.(we stay in touch.) Interestingly, this condition is mostly noticed right after a moderate rain storm - but on other occasions as well. PLEASE help.

Reply:

Christina

I'm not sure how a washing machine could insert air into a building water supply.

Have you checked or tried replacing the pressure regulator for the building?

Reader follow-up:

Thanks Dan, we had a new pressure reducing valve installed by a plumber. It reduced our pressure to a safer level, but the problem continues. Another plumber suggested that when the valves of an old washing machine open and close the water, it can create an air pocket. We will try to replace the washer but what if that doesn't work.

What is left…what don't we see? I contacted our water co. and they suggested to open all faucets….bleed the system….been there…problem comes back.

Reply:

On municipal water supply this is a tough one Christina - I'm continuing to think about it. If the air problem shows up ONLY after running the washing machine then indeed the plumber may be on to an answer. So let's try opening faucets, bleeding air, and leaving the washer off for a day or so. Let me know what happens.

Have you confirmed that no neighbors have problems with air in their water supply?

(Aug 5, 2014) Christina said:

Ok so far no air. Ran 5 loads of laundry….no air. We are expecting storms tonight so I will see what happens in the morning. Some thoughts in my mind…..Heating system in the house is baseboard/boiler….the system seems to be air bound a lot. we had a plumber bleed the system but I don't think that it was done right..

is there anyway that air from the heating system be forced back through the pressure reducer into the water supply with changes or shifts in humidity? i.e. during storms?

We have three maid o mist air purgers which were replaced but i also heard that if the system is plumbed incorrectly air can actually enter into the air release valve. If the systems are truly seperate meaning air can't enter the supply through the heating pipes then this would be irrelevant. Also the ice maker for the fridge has this weird connection to the copper pipe. could this somehow be involved.

I must say that after the next big storm I am anticipating a lot of air. I don't know why but somehow (I'm thinking now changes in humidity or barometric pressure) heavy rains bring this problem on. Thanks for your time.

(Aug 6, 2014) Christina said:

no rain last night…..no air

Reply:

Christina

about the air bound heating system see the diagnostics and suggestions at

inspectapedia.com/heat/Air_Removal_Pump.php

(Aug 11, 2014) Christina said:

No rain……no air.

Question: pressure drops, pump kicks on, no water pressure, then air comes out. When water returns it's dirty

7/28/14 Myles said:
I am having my pressure go from 50 to 30 then the pump kicks in but no water pressure comes up then it goes below 30 to 20 or 15 then air comes out, as soon as I shut the water off the pressure comes up slowly.

When I turn the water back on dirty water comes out for a few seconds then clears up but again in sputters for a long time especially the tapes furthest away from the tank. Should I turn on all the tapes to see if I can get the air out of the lines I just drained it this morning and re charged it I put in 50 lbs, is that to much?

Reply:

Myles I think you are describing a well running out of water.

Question:

(Aug 13, 2014) martine parry said:

anyone know why the water level has risen in the pipe that lets air out of the system when the shower pump has been running? Anti-gravity loop is there and then a pipe that rises with a screw on the top to shut it off if need be. I can't screw it tight as the air will then be trapped and kill the pump - this is how my previous pump died. Water level has risen recently so now it leaks water continually. Any connection with water pressure as a result of a radiator leak and need of a new valve on upstairs radiator? Thanks for advice.

Reply:

x

Question:

9/1/14 dan said:

with no water in the cold water tank what should the pressure be help

9/2/14 Anonymous said:

fine air bubbles in water after having been used for a while

9/2/14 Thomas E. Wyant said:

Air leak is at kitchen faucet ONLY. I do not hear it at any other faucet. I have water well.

Reply:

Dan: if the tank is open to the atmosphere the pressure will be zero on the pressure gauge (technically, 1 ATM)

Anon: fine air bubbles may indicate an air leak in the well piping

Thomas: follow the plumbing piping in your system; it may be that the easiest path for excess water tank air to follow upwards from the tank happens to be to the kitchen.

Question:

(Sept 1, 2014) dan said:
with no water in the cold water tank what should the pressure be help

(Sept 1, 2014) Anonymous said:
fine air bubbles in water after having been used for a while

(Sept 2, 2014) Thomas E. Wyant said:
Air leak is at kitchen faucet ONLY. I do not hear it at any other faucet. I have water well.

Reply:

Dan: if the tank is open to the atmosphere the pressure will be zero on the pressure gauge (technically, 1 ATM)

Anon: fine air bubbles may indicate an air leak in the well piping

Thomas: follow the plumbing piping in your system; it may be that the easiest path for excess water tank air to follow upwards from the tank happens to be to the kitchen.

Question:

(Sept 3, 2014) russ said:
I have air in my water system. It sounds and feels like air is entering from the well, which has plenty of water over the submerged pump. while pump is on, and well cover is off, I can see/hear no signs of air getting in.
the pump and line to the house was installed new 2 years ago. I've bled the air from the pipes by opening all faucets, spigots, appliances but it comes back.

Reply:

Look for a well pipe leak or a snifter valve that ought not be there.

Question:

(Sept 8, 2014) Jennifer said:
I have municipal water, and after a major rain storm, I heard hissing coming from toilet after it flushed, then from the faucet. I continued for about 6 hours, and then stopped. Originally thought it was a water main break in the town, but then next day, it has continued, in all faucets, and showers? What should I be looking for, no well? Thanks

Reply:

Jennifer I suspect that the hissing sound is either water running in pipes - perhaps from a running toilet, or, worse a small leak in a water pipe somewhere. If it's the latter you'll find it when water stains show up on a ceiling, wall, or floor.

I'd start by carefully checking each toilet to see if one of them is running. See

inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Toilet_Runs.php

Question:

(Sept 9, 2014) Shane said:
We have a cistern with the pressure tank and pump in the house. Why does air get in the lines when the cistern gets low?

Reply:

Shane

most likley the water level falls below the pick-up point in the cistern and the pump pulls a mixture of air and water - which can of course damage the pump.

Question:

(Sept 15, 2014) Anonymous said:
only our kitchen faucet sputters. over time it has become worse. the rest of the house seems fine. What could be wrong?

(Sept 21, 2014) Karen said:
I have occasionally noticed in the past a small air burst when water starts coming out of faucet or when flushing toilet but recently well seems to be running low/dry and now water comes out sinks etc...but in 1 bathroom when you try to flush toilet there is a loud sound like a motor boat and barely a trickle comes into the tank. What is going on?

(Sept 26, 2014) Anonymous said:
Hello, my well casing seal cover looks like it's ready to come off. Either the casing is dropping or the cord piping is rising? What do you think?
Phil

Reply:

(Oct 2, 2014) mninspector said:
anonymous,
it could be frost heave pushing on your electrical conduit , this can occasionally push your well cap off or suspend it above the casing.

Question:

20 January 2015 Anonymous said:

I have water treatment equipment and have been experencing air in the water. Our technician looked at the system an said nothing was wrong. we had a plumber look at our water pump. He couldnt find anything wrong and suggested we turn the water treatment system off for a few days.

We did this and had no problems with air in the water. After 3 days we turned the water treatment system back on and started having air in the water again. Also now we have experienced our water turning dark pink/purple from the chemicals in the water

It takes an hour running the water to get clear water. Our technician insists it is not the water treatment system. Does anyone know what coud be wrong?

Reply:

I would be looking for a leak in the water system piping, often between the water pressure tank and the well foot valve.

Question:

20 January 2015 Lisa said:

adding to the comment/question below. This problem with air in the water only happens at night after midnight. Never during the day.

Reply:

One could ask if there is not a leak in well piping somewhere. Watch for a drop in water pressure when the pump is not running and no water is being used in the home.

Question:

Mar 7, 2015) richard fortin said:
I ve just run out of water in the middle of the winter and I suspect a pipe burst underground because a bit of sand and dirt came through the faucet. wehn i prime the line from the well it runs and dies off. because a digger at -35 is not viable I intend to connect a sump pump at the well to the main line to the house pump and

even if the line is perforated it should maintain a small water pressure and when the main pump sucks the water it will not suck air. Now water from this installation is not for drinking but showering and dishwasher use unless i find dirt. if that's the case then I don t think there is anything I can do until spring. Any other ideas

(Mar 17, 2015) mike said:
I am new to this house but looking at the check valve it sits vertical on the pipe how does that work

Reply:

Mike I'm not sure what check valve on what pipe we're discussing. Some but NOT all check valves work in any position; others require proper horizontal positioning to work. Is this water supply, drain, what? Is the check valve a spring-loaded type or a gravity type? If you like use our email found at CONTACT to send me some photos.

Question: sputtering air at faucets, air bursts in our home.

(Apr 4, 2015) Dede mccaffery said:
My kitchen sink faucet water is sputtering when I turn on the faucet... Why is this? How can I fix it?

18 May 2015 Susie said:
We have air bursts inside our home

Reply:

Dede please take a look at the article above on this page and let me know if questions remain or if any of that is unclear.

Susie

If you are referring to air coming out of faucets, take a look through the suggestions in the article above. That's a good place to start diagnosis. If you have further or specific questions don't hesitate to ask.

...

Continue reading at AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see these

Recommended Articles

• AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES
• AIR OVERCHARGE in PRESSURE TANK
• AIR DISCHARGE from HOT WATER
• BURST BLADDER in WATER TANK
• CHECK VALVE FAILURES
• LEAKS in WELL PIPING
• LOSS of WATER in the WELL
• DAMAGED WELL PUMP
• AIR VOLUME CONTROL DEFECT
• GASES in WELL WATER
• WATER TREATMENT EQUIPMENT
• OTHER SOURCES of AIR in WATER PIPES
• AIR ELIMINATORS for POTABLE WATER SUPPLIES
• AIR INLET VALVES
• AIR VOLUME CONTROLS, WATER TANK
• SNIFTER & DRAIN BACK VALVES

Suggested citation for this web page

AIR ELIMINATORS for POTABLE WATER SUPPLIES at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

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INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to WATER SUPPLY, PUMPS TANKS WELLS

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