Hot roof designs, aka "dense-packed" insulated sloped roofs for warm or hot dry or hot humid climates:
This article describes various warm or hot or hot-humid climate hot roof designs, benefits, and risks.
The text discusses solutions for un-vented cathedral ceilings and similar under-roof spaces in hot humid climates and offers advice on how to avoid condensation, leaks, attic mold, & structural damage when roof venting is not possible.
Page top photo: extensive mold contamination on roof dfecking and framing, mostly species of Penicillium in this case, required costly cleaning but that was not enough to prevent mold recurrence. The underlying roof venting design problems have to be addressed or trapped moisture will eventually cause new mold growth.
This article series about roof and ceiling ventilation describes inspection methods and clues to detect roof venting deficiencies, insulation defects, and attic condensation problems in buildings.
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TenWolde and Rose pointed out in 1999 that
No scientific claims have ever been made that attic ventilation is needed for moisture control in warm, humid climates.
In these climates, the outside air is much more humid than the inside air which is cooled and dehumidified by air conditioning.
In such climates, attic venting tends to increase rather than decrease moistur4e levels in the attic .... [and] may therefore increase the danger of condensation on [the] HVAC ducts [as well]. [7]
Photo: open celled spray foam insulation being installed below an un-vented cathedral ceiling built by the author. Open celled foam insulates well, seals against flow of moist warm air into building roofs (or walls) but it's not waterproof. Leaks or moisture that get into any un-vented roof risk costly hidden damage.
Joe Lstiburek's view is that particularly in the hot humid South (of the U.S. - and not the local of the buildings we are illustrating here) there is not much gained in venting a roof (2-3% reduction in heat transfer in a vented attic).
And quite properly Dr. Lstiburek continues to point out that once A/C ducts are placed into the vented attic heat transfer to the occupied space goes up to 5-7% (for tight insulated ducts) compared to routing those ducts through conditioned space of the home, and a much worse 25% heat gain to the home if the HVAC ducts are leaky.
His argument that air movement through the attic under the roof will not flush heat being radiated towards the ceiling below is both interesting and compelling as well.
Joe also argues that the moisture from warm humid outside air run through an attic to ventilate it can move through the attic insulation where it can condense on the cool building ceilings below. [5]
Those data are compelling, though I (DF) am not entirely convinced that that nasty warm southern air my respected acquaintance describes actually moves "down" to the cool ceiling in the attic.
In roofs I've worked-on and examined with air tests and smoke guns, warm air rising in the hot attic went zooming out at the ridge vent, drawing cooler (nasty moist Southern) air in at the eaves.
The incoming air followed the underside of the roof upwards on the air currents exiting at the ridge. without however, recapping construction costs, or considerations for an existing home rather than new construction.
I have found surprising down-currents in indoor air inside a few buildings where upper floor air was being cooled to a temperature and density greater than warmer air downstairs.
In that circumstance cooler upstairs air flowed down stairwells to lower floors and on occasion that down-draft could de-pressurize an attic or cathedral ceiling causing warm moist outdoor to enter those areas.
Joe pegs the impact of venting on roof temperatures at 5%[5][6].
Really? I actually measured the temperature drop in a hot, un-vented attic in New York from over 145 degrees to 95 degrees after we cut in soffit and ridge venting
I was measuring air temperatures in the attic, not roof surface temperatures, and not radiated heat effects. That was a 35% drop in air temperature in the attic! This single "real world" case found a roof cavity temperature drop of seven times Dr. Joe's estimate.
Clearly we have seen some actual building conditions that don't behave as the scientists expected. Surely "real world" objective data are important when we compare theoretical design with the SNAFU's that occur in construction.
Watch out for real world snafus, damage, leaks in roofs. In sum, I'm left unsure about the gap between new construction designs and a perfect world where roofs never leak and the roofs I and more importantly, repair and renovation roof contractors have found when we inspected, tore apart, and repaired leaky roofs of both insulated cathedral ceiling homes, and homes with vented roof cavities.
See our summary of the difference between the ideal and what actually happens in "real life" building construction at
CONCLUSIONS & RECOMMENDATIONS for HOT ROOFS
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Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.
My cathedral ceiling is insulated with some thick type of fiberboard. My roof/ceiling for my 1957 home stacks up as follows: architectural shingles/double tar paper/OSB/gravel and tar/5inches of fiberboard/paint.
This exists throughout the house. At some point a small attic was constructed by placing a flat ceiling in about 1/5 of the house.
This attic houses the AC flex ducting. It currently has soffit vents and a whirlybird [turbine vent - Ed.]
[Click to enlarge any image]
After reading about ducting and the benefits of sealed and conditioned attics, could I seal this attic and give it a little AC? It has the exact same insulation as the rest of the house.
This is in central Louisiana. Thanks for any advice.
This Q&A were posted originally
Reply:
Mike
Thanks for the question. First help me get this right.
Your roof - is it a flat roof? Low slope?
Do you really have a mutli-layer roof of shingles over tar and gravel?About the high attic space running ductwork, those spaces are hard to vent effectively if the lower pitched roof is un-vented (the lower roof is a "hot roof" design by your description).
Do you really have soffit vents letting air into your upper attic ? Soffit vents are installed at the lower roof edges or "eaves" - not part-way up a roof.
Before I continue explaining what may be pointless arm waving, please
draw a sketch and use the "add image" button to show us what's there.Reader follow-up:
Mike said:
Hey ... thank you for the quick response.The roof is a 3/12 pitch. As I understand it, originally the roof was tar and gravel. At some point a metal roof was put directly on top of this tar and gravel, which remained for something like 20 years.
Soon after I bought the house, a tornado peeled the metal off. The roofing contractor nailed down OSB directly onto the tar & gravel, then a double layer of paper (due to the shallow pitch). I think i painted an incorrect picture with my description: I only have 1 attic. The roof is layered as described, with zero air gap between the layers.
The soffit vents are in the lower edge of the roof overhang. I'm attaching a sketch of a slice through my house, please let me know if you would like any additional information.
Moderator reply:
So you could vent the half attic- properly by continuous vents along the soffit and a continuous half ridge vent at the ridge.
The present venting system won't be as effective.
Just where insulation is places is relevant.
Also about that "fiberboard ceiling" - in a modern home meeting current fire standards I'd expect your local building inspector to want that covered by drywall.
Reader follow-up:
Mike said:
Is it possible or advisable to seal the existing venting and condition that space? I will look into the fire standards for my state.Moderator reply:
Yes Mike.
The reason I asked about insulation is that when converting the utility-space-attic containing HVAC equipment/ductwork into a conditioned space (generally something I like), we need to consider the costs and effectiveness of doing so.If your insulation is under the roof and at the gable end walls then cooling the attic space will be far less costly and much easier than if the insulation is in the attic floor. (You can of course add insulation).
Another consideration is that while "hot roof" designs can work well in buildings, I prefer that the roof covering be absolutely the most-bullet-proof possible. That's why I like a standing seam metal roof if slope permits, or a high quality membrane roof otherwise.
Shingles on a low slope roof are leak prone. Leaks into a hot roof enclosed cavity tend to go un-discovered for long enough that very serious rot and mold problems can develop.
Also see our articles on this topic beginning at HOT UN-VENTED ROOF DESIGN SOLUTIONS
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