Building roof FAQs:

Q&A on how to Install, Inspect, Diagnose, Repair Roofs; Roofing Defects, Product Sources, Installation Advice.

This article series provides details of how to conduct roof inspection, installation, diagnosis, repair & replacement.

Roof Install, Inspect, Diagnose & Repair FAQs

These questions and answers about roofs were posted originally

at ROOFING INSPECTION & REPAIR - home . That's a good place to find information about all types of building roofs: installation, inspection, troubleshooting, leak repair, replacement.

Are these ridge cap or hipo cap shingles instalaled correctly?

GAF seal a ridge ridge cap shingles have a 6 2/3 exposure.

Does this look like a correct installation? can you tell me if this valley is done right? On 2022-05-22 by Chris M

On 2022-05-22 by InspectApedia-911 (mod)

@Chris M,

Check out the installation specifications for ridge-cap shingles or hip cap shingles found at our home page for this topic:

RIDGE & HIP CAP SHINGLES

There at page bottom in the reader Q&A section I will repeat your question and give a more-detailed answer.

Also, perhaps you're seeing something that we can't see in your photo,

but all I can see is that you have what looks like a closed valley on a roof.

What's under those shingles, and how it was installed, is key to the leak-resistance of a roof valley. Sorry but we can't see that.

See details at

ROOF FLASHING, ASPHALT SHINGLE VALLEYS

and let me know what specific questions arise or what specific observations you have that raise a question about this roof.

 

Mike Pollard Best practices for roofing a low slope shed

Best practices for 6' x 8' shed comp low slope peaked roof using 2" galvanized flashing at eave edges, then how much overlay for felting? and treatment at peak where the roof halves meet? Should gable edges be flashed as well?

Question of appropriate 3 tab asphalt shingles , number of bundles, and recommended nailing schedule. Sheathing is 17/32" chip board. Thanks for your help. On 2022-05-05 by

Reply by Inspectapedia Com Moderator - roof slope determines roofing material

@Mike Pollard,

You say the shed is "low slope" - but what is the actual pitch? That will determine your choice of roofing material, and that in turn will determine the best roofing practices.

A "low slope roof" is one that slopes 2" in 12" to 4" in 12" of run.

Your question about felt application can't be answered without that information.

For example: you wouldn't use felt and asphalt shingles on a low slope roof.

The best practices and material choices for low slope roofing as well as a definition of low slope itself are at

LOW SLOPE ROOFING

Also see

BEST ROOFING PRACTICES

What are the reasons that asphalt shingle tabs might not seal down ?

We had some three tab asphalt shingles applied about three years ago and they have never sealed down was the tar strip defective or too dried out to melt properly? On 2022-04-24 by Clifford Bostwick

Reply by Inspectapedia Com Moderator -

@Clifford Bostwick,

Thank you that's a helpful question. I'm going to do some more research, but in general there are several reasons that shingle tabs might not seal down.

Those include the orientation and slope of the roof and the amount of shade that it receives,

possibly even nailing errors such as nails not fully driven or shingles butted so tightly together that they're arched,

or possibly a defective product with inadequate quantity or quality of sealant,

or possibly shingles that were stored improperly before they were installed.

And if the area of poorly sealed shingles is not too great, a common repair is too carefully apply roofing mastic under some of the tabs. Don't use tar or something else that might run out if the roof gets hot.

 

 

Would blocked attic eaves cause black dust inside my home?

Hi I'm concerned that my eaves in my attick have been blocked would that cause black dust in my home - On 2022-04-16 by Tracy

Reply by Inspectapedia Com Moderator - find source of black dust in home

@Tracy,

Blocked attic or under-roof ventilation can contribute to high attic moisture, frost, ice-dams, ice dam leaks, mold, but I don't see a direct cause of "black dust".

Watch out: if your black dust is soot from gas fired heating equipment then there is a dangerous condition risking carbon monoxide poisoning. Be sure that you have properly installed, located, tested smoke and CO detectors and inspect any gas fired equipment.

Otherwise search our website for "THERMAL TRACKING" and compare that to what you are seeing.

Why did our ceiling crack and walls bow after the roof was replaced

Weeks after having our roof replaced we started seeing stress cracks along an entire wall by our fireplace along with others above doors on an angle.

It’s now been 17 months and every room in the house has nail pops both opened and closed and bowed walls.

How can I determine that this damage (house built in 1967) we

Purchased in 2012 and we had NONE of this until post new roof. We even had rambunctious twin boys jumping upstairs that did not cause any nail pops or cracks. I’m concerned it’s structural and will only get worse.

There’s also some sort of water penetrating in our dining room that is not causing a stain more like a cracked eggshell look. On 2022-04-14 by Denny

Reply by Inspectapedia Com Moderator

@Denny,

Let's start by an attic inspection to see the type of framing is installed - then we can better diagnose the ceilling crack above

Roof work shouldn't cause the symptoms you describe but it's possible if:

- the building roof or wall or foundation framing were already improper or damaged

- the roofer caused inappropriate concentrated point loads by placing too much weight (bundles of shingles) all in one spot on a roof.

Watch out: severly bulged or bowed walls could warn of a dangerous building collapse. So let's get a competent inspector or engineer on site promptly.

Is this roof-wall abutment installation improper?

We recently had the roofing replaced on our home which has wood lap siding. There are several areas with flat roofs (over the front porch and some pop out windows) where the roofer installed new torch down rolled roofing.

I'm concerned about the way the roofer made the connection of the roof to the wood siding as it looks irregular to me and is not consistent with other similar homes in the neighborhood.

The flat roof material is rolled up onto the front of wood siding and capped off with a metal strip flashing topped by a bunch of caulking. The top of the metal flashing is about 10 inches above the level of the flat roof.

I looked around at similar homes in the neighborhood and cannot find any similar installations like the way the roofer did it. It seems like the flashing is typically behind the wood siding and, not on the outside.

When I asked the roofer about it, he insists that the way he did it is superior to putting the flashing under the siding.

I'm not sure what to think about that, but I do know the way it's installed it is not very attractive, looks a little dodgy to me, and easily visible from the front of the house.

The roofer says it will be less noticeable once the house is painted. Is it acceptable the way he has done it ? Any advice and comments are appreciated.

...

On 2021-11-22 by Alan

Reply by (mod) - roof wall abutment installation

@Alan,

I'm a bit unclear too about that roof-wall abutment on a couple of points.

The best installation would run counter-flashing up under siding then down over the roof-wall flashing.

That doesn't look like "torch down" roofing but I can't say for sure what's installed - "roll roofing" is not a torch-down product. "Modified bitumen" roofing, also sold in rolls, may be torch-applied or cold-applied - and in my OPINION is a longer-lived product than roll roofing.

Anyway, it looks as if the roofer ran the roof membrane up the wall (using the roof membrane as its own wall-flashing) and then fastened a metal strip of counter-flashing over it and finally caulked the top of that strip. against the siding.

If that's the installation it relies on the perfection of the caulk/sealant installation and its long-term adhesion to the wall and to the metal to prevent wind-blown rain from leaking down behind the "wall flashing".

IF the mod-bit was actually torched to the vertical wall then the risk of leaks behind it are probably much less.

IF the siding was difficult to remove this job is what many roofers might do. Else she'd have to do a lot more work - (and bid a higher price and maybe lose the job to a cheaper roofer who'd not have told you but who'd have done the same as what we see here) - loosening and pulling out that lowest clapboard, pulling out any nails through its bottom, working counter-flashing up well under that clapboard course and then out and down over the vertical lip of the mod-bit roofing-flashing.

In my OPINION it's not the best possible solution as it's pretty much always better to rely on the mechanical location of flashing to keep water out of a building wall or roof than to rely on sealant, but what we see is a common practice.

You should inspect that sealant with care to convince yourself that it's well bonded to the bottom clapboard and then check it again each year as well as watching below this roof at the building wall to be sure you see no leaks.

On 2021-11-05 by Todd EverShake roof failure in the Pacific NorthWest

I have a client in the PNW that has an EverShake roof, a polymer molded roof product made by Everlast Systems who is no longer in business.

This product had a claimed life expectancy of 40 years and the roof in question is 16 years old.

I'm looking for information regarding possible premature failure or any comments regarding its performance.

Reply by (mod) - EverShake “polymer molded” roof shakes

@Todd,

Here's an example of a splitting EverLast shake failure

I'm researching your question about the early failure of EverShake “polymer molded” roof shakes made by the Everlast Systems Company that itself appears to be out of business and long-gone.

Everlast Systems, Inc.’s simulated cedar shake roofing sold as “Ever-Shake” resembled natural-weathered cedar shakes and was sold with a 40-year transferable warranty.

From what we know so far, EverShake roofs did not perform well, failing within 20 years - about half the promised life, as seen by various private individual posts found online by simple search. (e.g posts on Reddit)

The Everlast Systems Co. who sold these plastic-like simulated shake roofing shingles apparently disappeared from view, as we note by a review of it trademark and website address. (To avoid a class action lawsuit?)

The failures of EverShake roofing have been described as cupping, cracking, brittle, and of course, roof leaks.

With the disappearance of the company who promised to warrant the shingles for forty years, in our OPINION, the warranty is worthless for these failing roofs.

Watch out: also in our OPINION, the first focus of the owner of any building roofed with Ever-Shake roofing should be to order whatever repairs are needed, even complete tear-off and re-roofing if necessary, rather than to become snarled in a search for a warrantor while the building might suffer more-expensive damage from water, rot, mold, etc.

Watch out: while it is appropriate to have a careful inspection of the roof of any building under purchase, considering the reports of failure and shake/shingle fragility, in our OPINION inspection should be visual, perhaps at roof edge if possible, but the roof should not be walked-on.

You can see the history of the Trademarked name -which gives a time window for the product itself at

EVER-SHAKE TRADEMARK INFORMATION

Last known address for
Everlast Systems
6 Ocean Beach Rd, Hoquiam, Washington, 98550, United States
Phone: (360) 532-0654
Website: www.evershake.com - REALLY? This website name appears to have been abandoned, as attempts to load it on 2021/11/07 returned an offer to buy the website name.

Don't confuse Everlast Systems with Everlast Roofing - a metal roofing company (a successor?)

Our excerpt from your photo points to an example of one of the Ever-Shake failure types: splitting polymer (plastic) roof shakes from now defunct Everlast Systems.

Look also for lifting, curling Ever-Shakes on this roof.

 

Evaluate this wood roof support split

Does cracking like this mean bigger structural issues?

On 2021-05-22 by huxleybadger

On 2021-11-05 by (mod)

@huxleybadger,

It could, though from just your photo we know too little.

It does look as if a sister rafter (if this is a roof) has been added.

OPINION: If you see other broken rafters then the roof may be under-framed or otherwise improperly framed for your location and building.

 

Do we need to fill in the gaps when a ridge venbt is removed?

If a ridge vent is removed, should it be replaced by some wood in the ridge before covering with overlayment (peel and stick)? On 2021-03-09 by Mary D

On 2021-03-09 by (mod)

@Mary,

IF the gaps cut for the ridge vent are not so wide that it is not possible to nail down the ridge cap shingles, then it's not necessary to fill-in that gap with wood sheathing.

Watch out: But as I note in other versions of this discussion, if a ridge vent has been removed one should ask why?

Why would you shut off a critical component of proper roof ventilation to avoid mold, moisture, heat damage, etc?

Was metal required in roof valleys?

Was metal required in roof valleys per manufacturer's installation specs for Certainteed Presidential roof shingles back in 2003? On 2021-01-20 by Tom Walker -

Reply by (mod) - no but an acceptable valley liner or flashing IS required - it just doesn't have to be metal

Thanks Tom, that's an interesting general question on whether or not metal flashing is ever *required* for roof valleys. I don't think-so.

I've not found that specification in single installation instructions; there are other permitted valley flashing materials such as roll roofing or even EPDM, though in my OPINION properly-installed metal flashing is most-durable and can stave off early re-shingling as a valley wears faster than other roof areas.

Details are at ASPHALT SHINGLE VALLEY FLASHING

Do I need a water-ice barrier on my roof? What do codes say?

I'm in zone 2, I have a Clayton's home (dub wide) with a 12' slope, does the state code call for a water/ice barrier? if yes where can I find the codes on that. On 2021-01-02 by Birgit and Shawn Burnsed

Reply by (mod)

Brigit

Use of ice and water barrier in roof installation is not an explicit building code requirement, though it is recommended by roofing manufacturers and ARMA the Asphalt `roofing `manufacturer's Association professional organization for areas prone to snow, ice, and risk of ice dams.

Did the roofer really install an insulating underlayment on my roof?

Sticker says: Thermal Sheet & Insulation, Roof Underlayment 4LMPX, ICC approved shingle, metal roofing, clay tile/ on deck 1/8" X 4"X 125'; thermal break, Staple edge; Fiber reinforced Facing

Builder said it was insulated. (But he said a lot of things). Last shingle was done 26 years ago and I don't remember that contractor saying there was or wasn't but he didn't suggest adding any. In short, I don't know for sure. On 2020-10-01 by Jan R

Reply by (mod) - Therma-Sheet Insulation roofing underlayment

That's helpful. I think it's actually "Therma-Sheet Insulation" not exactly what you wrote.

Details about this product are at https://low-e-ne.com/thermasheet.html where readers can download product specs, code approvals, etc.

What you'll read is that this product is a roofing underlayment - an alternative to felt - that adds a reflective barrier and will provide some increase in roof structure R-value. Just how much will this increase the R-value of your existing roof?

There's a two part answer.

1. Unknown: what is the present roof structure and R-value and quality of installation and air leakage; without this we have no idea what percentage improvement in your roof's insulation system ANY product will make

2. The R-value provided by this product by itself is given in two forms, neither of which do I understand exactly but the company says

R VALUE UNDER SHINGLES: - 4 LPMX 0.05 -4 LPFX 1.04 --- I take this to be two R-values for 2 different products. In my OPINION gaining R-1 is not significant in most climates (though more than you'd get from felt)

R VALUE: R-9 downward heat value with 1.5" air space ---- this is not a HEAT LOSS R-value it is a HEAT GAIN resistance value - from sunlight on the roof surface (also very much affected by shingle color, wind, snow cover etc.

If you are up for spending much more on your roof and / or badly need a much higher R-value roof then there are other options that will make much more difference in the R-value of the roof system.

Low-E is a thermal insulation distributor - in this case operating in the northeastern U.S.

Low-E Northeast Distribution
2400 Stafford Ave., Suite 150
Scranton, PA 18505
Phone: (570) 821-5693 (Low-E)
Toll Free: 1-800-560-5693 (Low-E)
Email: info@low-e-ne.com

Followup by Jan R

Thank you. That'll be the place. Couple remaining questions: How could I find out those unknowns you listed? Why wouldn't this underlayment cook the shingles if it reflects outward? Do the Scotch Guard shingles with copper work against mold?

Reply by (mod) -

Jan
Let's start with the fundamental question: do you know how your roof is constructed? What layers and what materials? If not perhaps your roofer can help you with that.

OK to use low-E foil and air bubble insulation on my un-vented roof?

Need to replace shingles on a cathedral with no attic or air space. Tongue in groove ceiling is the roof. Not vented. No moisture problems. No noticeable air leakage, snow stays on roof a long time. All electric home so interested in all the insulation I can get that is effective.

Contractor is suggesting low E two sided foil with small amount of plastic air bubble material in between.

ICC approved for under shingles. Everything I read suggests that an air space is needed for this insulation to be effective. Then why approved for under shingles?

Is that small space in between foil considered a space?

Since insulation reflects the heat of the sun out, and heat of the house down, how does this not cook the shingles?

Could this CAUSE moisture problems in an unvented roof? Also do scotch guarded, copper infused shingles really prevent mold on the roof from nearby trees? On 2020-10-01 by Jan R

Reply by (mod) - use of foil-faced bubble insulation under roofing

Jan:

Can you get me your exact product name so that we can read its specifications and installation instructions?

I'd want to understand the gain in roof system R-value in order to compare this with other options such as a layer of high-R foam + decking or using SIPS (Structural insulated panels) compared with keeping the present roof structure;

it's also be helpful to understand what's already there: atop the T&G decking is there presently NO insulation?

Is the product something like the one shown below?

If so, let's start with what Ecofoil says about it:

This insulation is constructed of a double layer of polyethylene bubble insulation, bonded to two radiant barrier metallized sheets. The insulation not only works well to reflect radiant heat, but it also works as a vapor barrier, preventing condensation which can cause mold. EcoFoil Double Bubble Foil Insulation is primarily used for pole barns, metal buildings, basement walls, crawl spaces, and storage units.

Our insulation can be used for both new construction and existing buildings. - https://www.ecofoil.com/products/double-bubble-foil-insulation-foil-both-sides-4-x-75-300-sq-ft

See details at BUBBLE FOIL / CLOSED-CELL FOAM INSULATION

On 2020-08-27 by Donna Glenn - Wind damaged my roof and the roofer won't fix it

I had a new roof installed in 2018. We were given a 30 yr warranty on the shingles and 10 yr warranty on the workmanship. We recently had a bad storm with high winds move through.

This caused damage to my roof so I called the company that we used to install the roof and they refused to honor the warranty. They commented that it wasn’t their fault that the storm hit. So what do we do?

On 2020-08-27 - by (mod)

First place to start is to review your contract with your roofing company to see what the specifics are regarding the warranty. Does it include 'everything' or 'acts of god', etc.?

 

Was asbestos used in asphalt shingles in 1964?

My house was built in 1964. The roof has two layers of asphalt shingles.

I plan to have both layers removed and have a new asphalt roof installed. I am concerned about the original roof having asbestos? Was asbestos used in asphalt shingles in 1964? On 2020-08-03 by Harold

Reply by (mod)

Take a look at our article

ASPHALT SHINGLES ASBESTOS

and let us know if you have additional questions.

Are these roof granules in the gutter normal?

Is this normal granule loss for a 5 year roof? On 2020-08-02 by Marylynn -

Reply by (mod) - what is normal granule loss on a roof

Marylynn

It is normal for there to be a lot of INITIAL mineral granule loss when a roof is newly installed, The next time we'd see this amount of granules in the roof would be at end of life OR if some heavy footed people were doing a tango on the roof surface.

If the granules were in the gutters from time of new roof installation it may be ok.

Take a closer look at the actual surface condition of the shingles.

Your photo shows a lot of mineral granules in the gutters AND roofing nails and shingle scraps

- such as might have been left by poor site-cleanup after a roofing job.

Falling light fixture, flat roof leaks, bad roof repairs, now what do I do?

I live on the entire upper level of a 1913 “pie piece “ building with a flat roof that has been deemed in dire need of replacement. I am a renter but have a fabulous amicable relationship with my landlord and I’ve been there over 4 years now. Downstairs is commercial, my upstairs is residential.

December 2017: the original wrought iron flame bulb chandelier in chandelier in my kitchen was hanging by its electrical cord when I came home one day about 4 feet of hang and I could see a bit of sky from the whole where it should have been affixed.

Immediately reported, now-fires contractor claimed he patched it, great.

I will stop and note that I am a realtor so I witness many home inspections but not often flat roofs.

Fast forward 2019 summer: I came home and there was 3 inches of water in my kitchen and see attached discoloration that formed in the days following.

Landlord hired a much better reputed roofer and his guys performed some more patchwork at which point it was established the roof needed full replacement along with my kitchen ceiling.

I was also instructed not to turn on the lights in the kitchen and to place a standing lamp just outside (?!)

I mainly live at my boyfriend’s house so I just leave them all off at this point.

About a month after the patching, a new leak started in my entrance area and I came home to a square of ceiling separating and water dripping from rusty nails onto the hardwood floors.

Repeat of prior “Fix” but at this point the roofer was pulling permits for the re roof.

Then COVID happened and no new projects can start until early June. I’ve spoken to roofer today, as I have new drone photos to send him of the new (?) pool above where I now leave a bucket to collect “water” I could sell as coffee it’s so black. Tar I assume?

Kitchen chandelier has lowered a notable 3 inches over the past year. It no new leaks in there.

Based on this and photos, how afraid should I be between now and June when they start work?

I’m scared of electrical fire, air quality, and the potential of a ceiling collapse.

There is no metal decking, the roofer says everything including the membrane and the fiberboard insulation is completely saturated, should I just get all my things out now in the event this place is structurally unsound?

I absolutely love my home and planned to purchase the building eventually so there is a huge emotional investment here. Thanks On 2020-05-08 by Emily K

Reply by (mod) -

Emily

With the caution that nobody can diagnose your building's condition nor safety from just some photos, I agree that it looks, from your photos and comments that

- there is significant roof sagging and risk of a roof total collapse - both dangerous to occupants and risking still more-expensive damage

- there is a history of significant leakage and water entry, making it likely that there are hidden (or visible or both) mold reservoirs in the building.

The very least you need is a competent onsite inspection to decide

1. is the building safe to occupy

2. should temporary bracing be added indoors to support the sagging ceiling and roof against sudden catastrophic (and more-costly) collapse

3. where is the mold

4. how much demolition and repair are going to be needed

You may indeed go ahead and plan to buy the building but don't do so without a complete, expert, unbiased home inspection and estimates of all of the repair cost, or you face both hazards and some expensive surprises.

Insurance company won't cover damage to clay tile roof snow damage in Arizona

I am having an issue with insurance company regarding my clay tiles, two piece type top and pan.

Insurance giving hard time saying they cant cover damages caused by 6 to 8 snow on roof that last several days on roof. about 60% of the tiles shifted down as the snow melted and carried the tiles down.

i need to prove to insurance company that in fact snow caused tile shift and some break either because of weight or wind.

I live in arizona and it had not snowed like this in over thirty years or more. please help me with any info regarding damage to clay tiles.

have a clay roof question.On 2019-07-01 by frank m

Reply by (mod) - sort out snow damage to tile roof: for insurance claim

Frank

Would you describe sounds like improper fastening of the clay tiles to the roof or a Fastener failure. So you might want to start by photo documenting exactly the condition of how the tiles were installed and secured in the first place.

Then you need to compare that with the standards for clay tile roofs in your area. If the tiles were not installed correctly the insurance companies not likely to cover the damage.

Is there a mobile home code that specifically excludes the use of asphalt shingles on roof

Are shingles allowed on single wide mobile homes in south carolina On 2019-04-1 by frank I

Reply by (mod) -

Frank,

I'm not aware of any mobile home code that specifically excludes the use of asphalt shingles on roofs - but of course the home and the roof structure need to have been built suitably.

For example you wouldn't try to seal a metal, membrane, flat or low slope roof by slapping on asphalt shingles.

It's raining during our roof job: is this a problem?

We made some rough extensions on to our roof we are in the process of beginning to cover them with the black paper and shingles however with the black paper up it started to rain is this going to be a problem On 2019-04-01 by Sonja

Reply by (mod) - do not shingle over wet roof surfaces

Best not to shingle over wet materials - you'll void the manufacturer's shingle warranty and you may have a reduced life of your roof covering.

Question: Diagnose Staining on building from roof shingles made from recycled tires?

Here are photos of the gutters and sliding door trim that are just below the roof

If you're able to enlarge them, you will see the black stain that's coming from the roof shingles.

There are no trees around the house. We live in New Jersey right on the bay. Our builder had the gutters washed, but the black stain could not be removed.

Also, upon further investigation, my husband found extra shingles stored under the eaves of our attic. To our surprise "Royal Roofing" was stamped on the inside of each shingle--not Eternit!

Are these two separate companies? The architect's notes indicated "Eternit" as the roofing tiles--now I'm confused. Unfortunately, he has passed away and his business was dissolved.

When I contacted Eternit in England via e-mail, they said that they never manufactured a roof tile made from "recycled" tires. That was exactly how our architect described the tiles to us! He was very excited about its reported durability and longevity.

Once again, Daniel, I hope you can shed light on this dilemma! - M.

Reply: Bleed-out and run-down stains on the building vs. shingle life

I'd like to see sharp photos of your roof shingles in place, both the field of the roof and closeups of the shingles, and I'd certainly want to see photos of the surfaces and markings of the extra shingles you found in your attic so that we can more accurately identify and contact the manufacturer with follow-up questions.

I'm not sure that all of the black stains in your photos are due to the composition of your roof shingles, and it's common to see some black stains on the outer edges of white K-profile aluminum gutters even on asphalt shingle roofs.

More about diagnosing building stains is

at STAINS on & in BUILDINGS, CAUSES & CURES.

But if your roof shingles are bleeding out significant levels of black debris, in addition to needing to clean the building exterior, you ought to be able to avoid stains on other building surfaces by properly routing roof runoff into gutters and downspouts.

A second question that might arise is whether or not black runout stains from a roofing product are a sign of deterioration or reduced roof life. Certainly the manufacturers of plastic and composite roof shingles we list below all promise rather long-life warranties.

Your roof shingles may be a Canadian product: Royal Dura Shingles. But first let's correctly identify your shingles and then ask the manufacturer for an opinion and advice.

"Royal" as a roofing name alone is a bit broad as you'll see from our references below, including manufacturer names, roofing company names, and several asphalt shingle product names including IKO Royal Estate shingle and GAF Royal Sovereign shingles.

"Royal Roofing" may be a company name or a shingle model produced by a company of a different name. In any case, Eternit, a company about which you asked us previously, produced fiber cement shingles and is separate from Royal Group Technologies who produce Dura slate roof shingles (see our company list below).

Several companies produce roofing shingles made from recycled materials, rubber, composites, plastics, including:

• EcoStar (EcoStar 104 Terrace Drive Mundelein, IL 60060 USA , Tel: (800) 211-7170 , Carlisle SynTec Incorporated, North Carolina) synethetic shingles, lightweight rubber and plastic roof shingles, slate lookalikes, (Majestic Slate Traditional, Colonial, Designer, Class A, Titus Tiles & Seneca Cedar Shake. 50-year warranty.
• Royal Roofing, Royal Group Technologies Limited 1 Royal Gate Blvd. Woodbridge, Ontario Canada L4L 8Z7, Tel: 905-264-0701, and Royal Dura Shingles, 91 Royal Group Crescent Woodbridge, ON L4H 1X9, Canada (905) 850-9700, Website: http://www.royalbuildingproducts.com/.
  
  Royal Building Products is a division of the Ontario, Canada based Royal Group Technologies Ltd.. Product focus is on siding and exterior trim. I've read that Royal’s Dura Slate roof shingles include a 50-year limited transferable warranty, as well as hail protection and a Class A Fire Rating.
  • Royals - cedar shingles: "Royals" can also refer to Western Red Cedar shingles that are 24" (610mm) in length, in all grades. These shingles are all 1/2" (12.5mm) thick, (nominal - in all grades). The recommended exposure for a 24" shingle roof is 7-1/2" (190mm) for a 3-ply, water tight construction. 
• RuBBur roof, Hi-Tek Rubber Inc. 308 E. Burlington St #114 Iowa City, IA 52240, Tel: 319-321-3040, Class A for fire resistance roofing shingles. Hi-Tek Rubber, Inc., Iowa City IA, "double-lifetime warranty"

 

Question: How do I track down roof leaks and decide if leaks are active or inactive? Wet spots & black mold found during interior repairs after prior roof leaks and a new roof installation

We live in a condo building, four story, concrete structure with brick face.

We have had our flat, concrete roof repaired multiple times in the past few years. Last year the roof was sponge-y with water. We had repairs made in all areas as per a building inspector's advice, and a water expert's advice, except for some tuck pointing problems which were terribly expensive, and didn't look all that problematic . Also we installed roof vents.

This summer the roof is no longer sponge-y. It is solid. But the owners of the fourth (top) floor apartment are having interior work done and are discovering black mold and water/moisture coming in in the very areas they want to repair.

The roof LOOKS good, flashing and parapets are tight, caps on parapets are repaired and in good shape, roof surface (modified bitumen) has been sealed this summer and looks to be in good shape.

Is it possible this is still water percolating down from our concrete roof? Or should we be looking for new leaks?

Should we be calling yet another roofer? Or should we be waiting for the interior to be free of the old buildup of water which is still making its way down from the soggy, sponge-y roof we had last summer.

Thank you for any advice you can give us. - M.J.

Reply: Look for & trace moisture or water under the roof, explore for leaks during mold cleanup, don't look just for "black mold"

Our home page for roof leak detection, diagnosis, and repair (where to patch) is

at LEAKY ROOF DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR. Excerpts are below.

If your roof is low slope or flat water travels and it can be tricky tracking down a leak - an inspector using infra red and moisture meters should be able to help sort out the question of whether there is an active leak and if so where it originates.

As you report that the top floor occupant has found wet areas, it seems likely that other than concrete and structural members, other wet materials such as insulation will need to be removed - a step that will help trace the size and pattern of wet areas back to inspection points on the roof above.

It's common on large commercial buildings and apartments to simply add another layer of roofing over leaky flat or low-slope roofs.

Sometimes the roofer will also put down a layer of insulating board first. As long as the roof can be mechanically secured soundly to the structure, that practice is acceptable in many communities.

But roofing over wet layers of old material can lead to future troubles including

• moisture vapor bubble formation and bulging in the new roof membrane
• difficulty distinguishing between old leaks and new leaks in the roofing system
• continued mold growth in building materials and over longer periods, increased risk of rot or insect damage to wood structures
• reduced life of the new roof covering

If the roofer roofed over wet conditions they could take a long time to dry out, particularly if the roof was installed atop multiple layers of old material.

You didn't say how long ago the new roof was installed nor whether or not there was a tear-off of old layers.

Also, while we like modified bitumen as a roof covering material, the roof can "look good" but could have improperly made seams.

An experienced roofer or roof inspector will look closely at the modified bitumen seams and flashing details to be more confident that at least from above the roof doesn't show obvious leak points. See our detailed response to this question

at LEAKY ROOF DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR.

Also see MODIFIED BITUMEN ROOFING for details about the type of roofing installed on this building. .

Roof-over premitted? code on manufactured home Pasco County Florida?

can you do a roof-over on amanfacture home in pasco county fl On 2018-12-31 by marian -

Reply by (mod) - how many layers of roofing are permitted before a tear-off is required?

Marian

I don't know your specific county but most jurisdictions permit at least two layers of roof shingles before tear off is required. Some permit three.

Your local building department is always the final legal Authority.

Building inspector won't pass a flat roof covered in roll roofing

hello, i have a small 12x20 area of roof which is low pitch,probably 2-12. i used asphalt rolled roofing. we ran tar paper and overlapped 6 inches.

all nails concealed. we did roof in july and have had a few days where it literally poured all day no leaks. its also what was on it before. the inpector wont pass it cause its rooled roofing? On 2018-12-14 by chris

Reply by (mod) -

Chris,

Your local building inspector is the final Authority and can pass or not pass the roof you described. I

think I'm such a low sloped it's going to have a short life.

Slopes at 2/12 or less need a membrane roof, not roll roofing.

Why don't my roof shingles line up?

I recently had a new roof installed and I am wondering why the shingles do not overlap at the bottom of the roofline. This was done on most of the roof. On 2018-11-29 by Margaret

On 2018-11-29 by (mod) - why don't shingles overlap at roof eaves?

Margaret

I can't quite see in the photo just what you're questioning.

Perhaps you can draw an arrow on the photo or give me a closeup - perhaps taking a closer photo through that dormer window.

 

How many shingle layers are allowed on a mobile home?

How many shingle layers allowed on mobile homes?16 by 80. On 2018-11-25 by jmwysong57@yahoo.com

Reply by (mod) - Two or Three? Depending on jurisdiction.

JM

In most jurisdictions (you don't give country and city) local building regulations permit up to two or in some jurisdictions three layers of asphalt shingles on a home.

However


Watch out: we don't know a thing about your particular home, nor its construction nor roof strength to carry the weight of extra layers of materials.

For example, if your mobile home is in an area subject to heavy snow loading and/or if the roof on your home was a DIY site-built add-on the roof framing may not support extra weight.

Followup by jmwysong

my mobile is 2004 model clayton/ central arkansa

Reply by mod

You'll want to take a closer look at the slope or pitch of your roof. Typically Arkansas which follows the ICC will allow two layers of organic or fiberglass asphalt shingles on roofs with a 4/12 pitch or less.

If your roof is steeper than that you'll be allowed to have three layers.

I jacked up the floor of my trailer and now the roof sags: how do I fix it?

jacked up floor and nails and screws popped all over trailer now roof is sagging down at least 1/2 inch I fill like the weight of roof is making walls bow. now windows and doors do not work right. how can the roof be fixed?On 2018-07-12 by Mr T

On 2018-07-12 by (mod) -

I don't know, if we don't have a diagnosis of what's going on with your home.

But I suspect that you've pushed the trailer unevenly and twisted it, causing roof leaks.

Watch out: if windows don't open you may be missing a critical fire exit in your home - that is unsafe as someone could be trapped in a fire.

You need an on-site home inspector or building inspector or engineer exam in the whole structure to find out what's coming apart or is bent or out of level or out of plumb.

Best way to identify flat roofing tile that is on a steeple.

What is the best way to identify flat roofing tile that is on a steeple. I have a 2" x 2" sample. it is about 1/4" thick green etc On 2018-04-23 by Ricky

Reply by (mod) -

Ricky

Is this really a "tile" - ceramic, clay, or concrete, or an asphalt shingle, or other mateiral?

1. Identify the material

2. Photograph it's surfaces

3. Take its dimensions

4. Look for any imprinted code, number, letter

5. Describe the finish surfaces: e.g. for ceramic tile, glazed, texture, color (green in your case)

6. Check with local roofing suppliers first

7. Try a web search with those characteristics

You're welcome to post photos (use the picture frame icon) and that information here as well.

Repeated roof leak blob job patches with silicone sealant

I recently hired a roofer to repair leaks around two chimneys around dormers and in built in box gutters. The roofer said he could not guarantee the repairs unless he redid the entire roof, a frame with three dormers about 14 square.

Before the work began he explained he would apply ice and water shield up the dormer sides and chimneys under the flashing.

After the job started he explained the sheathing was too old and the original boards would crack with every other nail.

$17,200 later I have persisted leaks around the dormers and chimneys as well as one box gutter.

Roofer returned and repaired each problem with silicone. It became apparent that he did not replace the dormer flashing but rather left it in place and shoved the new plywood sheathing under the existing dormer flashing.

The house is covered in dryvit stucco. The dormer stucco is terminated 4" above the roofline and a trim board covers the flashing. The roofer insists there is no problem with the original flashing despite leaks around the dormer before and after his roof job.

What is the likely cause of the leaks and is the roofers argument plausible at all.
Joseph On 2017-05-28 by Joseph

Reply by (mod) -

Joseph

This sounds distressing to me, too. Repeated blob job patches with silicone sealant doesn't sound like a reliable fix if there are many SNAUFs on a roof, though the roofer gets credit for returning to try to fix the trouble.

I cannot, I'm sorry to say, tell you the cause of the leaks from just your e-text. There are just too many possible mistakes.

For example, I can't see the roof, the stucco, the flashings, the absence of flashings, the flashing that may have been covered by trim boards.

You need an independent onsite expert who has expertise and experience in roof inspections and who can give you an authoritative, photo-documented, written report so that you can both understand the problem and specify the proper repair.

Try the page top EXPERTS DIRECTORIES and talk with roof inspectors and home inspectors in your area.

Let me know what you're told, use the page bottom or top CONTACT link to send along photos and reports, and we can comment further.

On 2017-05-29 0 by joseph

thanks Dan. I will try to get a couple of inspections.

Cedar shake roof my drip edge has a brown stain on it

Re-posting

AUTHOR:Anonymous (no email)
COMMENT:I have a cedar shake roof my drip edge has a brown stain on it only in one area.what may cause this? On 2017-01-02 by Anon-

On 2017-01-02 by (mod) -

Anon

From just your e-text I cannot hazard a useful guess at the brown stain cause on your roof.

A stain with no other information could be from a rather wide variety of sources such as water, wood shingle or shake oil bleed-out, debris and including algae, moulds, rust bleed-off etc.

Please search InspectApedia.com for STAINS on ROOF SHINGLES to see common roof stains and their causes. That article focuses on asphalt shingles but many of the stain sources can affect other roof materials as well.

Flat concrete tile foamed over a peel and stick membrane

I recently inspected a residence that had flat concrete tile foamed over a peel and stick membrane. Lesser slopes areas were covered with a layer of a granulated modified. The roof is approx. six years old and has a radiant barrier installed on the underside of the decking.

There is no ventilation and Icynene closed cell foam was installed over the radian barrier

. Problems in the form of leakage and deck deterioration started after three to four years. There is a white film at many of the deteriorated areas and the decking is also rotting.

The stains do not appear to be consistent with normal leakage. Could we be experiencing some type of chemical reaction?

Has anyone heard of any similar situations. I'm desperate for an avenue to explain this problem. On 2015-02-06 by Doug

Reply by (mod) -

Doug,

Was it you who also sent me an email with the same question? Sounds like the roof was built to create a moisture trap. Foil has a perm rating of close to zero - it's virtually waterproof. So if water gets into the space between foil and roof deck it's trapped and thus invites rot.

On 2012-11-21 by OLga lorraine - cause of bubbling roof shingles

Why woud some individual shingles bubble up

On 2012-11-22 by (mod) -

Olga, I'm not sure what you mean by bubbling asphalt shingles. But there are phenomena like shingle blisters or blister rash - which we explain at

BLISTERS on ASPHALT SHINGLES (article link at above left)

On 2012-09-19 by Ellen from Portsmouth - Shorter shingle life on bow roof?

Do asphalt shingles have a shorter lifespan installed on a bow roof than on a traditional house roof?

On 2012-09-28 by (mod) -

Ellen,

Take a look at ASPHALT SHINGLE LIFE / wear factors in the ARTICLE INDEX

More likely installation, color, roof slope are dominant factors.

Find installation specs and warranty information on the discontinued Carlisle Ecostar Titus roofing

Where can I obtain installation specs and warranty information on the discontinued Carlisle Ecostar Titus roofing product. The manufacturer is offering no help. - On 2012-07-16 by Doug

Reply by (mod) -

Doug,

If Carlisle carlisle-international [dot] com does not want to help you I'm surprised.

Be sure to try their sales and marketing folks as usually they're the most anxious for customers to be happy with the company and their products. (800) 211-7170

For older products that have been withdrawn from the market, sometimes for legal and warranty claim issues a company stops providing OEM information - I've run into that with some other situations, and have found marketing and even installation literature by more obscure searches for old or archival material, even product images that appeared in advertising. For example a web search for "carlisle ecostar roof" turned up carlisle links, product brochures, literature, though not installation specs.

And Carlisle does offer online copies of roofing product installation for their current products.

If you can define the difference in composition between Titus and the other products it may be that what you need is already online. Try starting there.

On 2011-11-2 by Frank - Roof leaks in manufactured barn

I have a manufactured barn that was built & delivered in May of 1999. This summer, July 2011 I developed numerous leaks. I checked the shingles from a ladder & saw they were cracked open & falling apart on the entire roof. I called the person that built the barn.

He came to my house & inspected the roof. His comment was "I never saw anything like this in 23 yrs." Obviously, the deterioration started x amount of years ago, but, was not noticed until the leaks began.

He said the entire roof shingles would need replaced. He also said the shingles were (Atlas organic shingles) he used at that time. He said they seemed to stand up better than fiberglass during transport of his structures. His advice was to file warranty with Atlas, which I recently did, & complied with all there requirements. The going price to remove,replace & dispose is approx. $1,200. Not good news, especially un-expected.

Reading all these warranty items & comments on the internet is enough to give me a head ache. Seems the shingle manufacturer always wins! I also saw class action lawsuits for organic shingles of many sorts. I feel my shingles just fell apart & 1/2 the limited warranty expired, I feel I am going to get "burnt bad". Can anyone give me some info or advice on how to better pursue this quest?
Thank You, Frank

On 2011-11-27 by (mod) -

Frank, it sounds as if you are describing a defective shingle product. I agree with the roofer - most roofers don't want to roof-over shingles to start with as it's a less durable job, and they're more nervous about roofing over defective materials.

In my OPINION I agree with you that many warranties are more of a marketing tool than a product guarantee that gives much protection to the consumer. Typically a roof shingle warranty pro-rates the shingle replacement cost based on roof age (which certainly sounds fair) and usually does not include replacement labor (which might be negotiable in some cases).

Take a look at WARRANTIES for ROOF SHINGLES in the ARTICLE INDEX for more information.

 

 

Thank you to our readers for their generous comments

On 2019-12-05 - by Damianb

Damian said:

Having all this in one place has saved me so much time. I can't tell you how many times I've referenced back to this article. Thanks!
Damian

...

Continue reading at ROOFING INSPECTION & REPAIR - topic home, or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see these

Roofing Articles

• ALGAE, FUNGUS, LICHENS, MOSS on ROOFS
• ASPHALT ROOF SHINGLES - home
• ASPHALT SHINGLE INSTALLATION
• ASPHALT SHINGLE LIFE / WEAR FACTORS
• ASPHALT SHINGLES on LOW SLOPE ROOFS
• BEST ROOFING PRACTICES
• ROOF ARCHITECTURAL STYLES
• ROOFING INSPECTION & REPAIR - home
• ROOFING MATERIALS, AGE, TYPES
• SHINGLE EXPOSURE AMOUNT
• STAIN DIAGNOSIS on ROOFS

Suggested citation for this web page

ROOFING INSPECTION & REPAIR FAQs at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

Or see this

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to BUILDING ROOFING

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