Installation & repair details for a residential steambath wall-mounted control:
Using a Mr. Steam® iTEMPO™ wall control as an example, we illustrate the installation of a steam generator control, including the installation requirements and advice about avoding an installation mistake that can cause lots of trouble: a screw shorts the control cable.
This article series describes detail the installation of an electrically-operated residential steam generator in the shower of an existing home.
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For most steambath products a separate wall control is used to control the steam generator on/off, temperature, time-on and other features.
Separately, virtually all electrically-operated steambath generators also include an internal control board, a circuit board that performs detailed switching and other operations within the unit.
The steam control or wall control settings are communicated to the steam generator's control board (usually) by a multi-wire cable that connects the two devices.
The installation instructions for the wall control will be separate from the instructions for installing the steam generator itself.
The Mr. Steam company gives quite clear instructions for locating and mounting both the steambath generator and the wall control unit in Mr. STEAM iTEMPO STEAM CONTROL MANUAL [PDF]. The specific installation details for your steam controller model may be different, so be sure that you actually read the installation & operation manual.
Our photo above, below shows the Mr. Steam® iTEMPO™ control located about 4 ft. above the floor.
Watch out: the manufacturer lists at least a dozen warnings that you should heed to assure a safe and functional steam bath installation.
Consult the I&O Manual for the specific steambath generator you are installing.
Above: the open groove cut into the concrete wall marks the planned route for the control cable to run between steam generator and the wall control in the steambath.
Above: the wall opening in the steam bath has been prepared to mount the control unit. The cables have not yet been routed up through conduit and to the control mounting point.
The steam head is the vent through which steam is released into the steambath area. Steam is fed to the steam head by 1/2" copper pipe from the steam generator outlet.
The steam head should be located where users of the steambath will not come into contact with its hot surface. The recess in the top of this steam head can be used to hold drops of aromatic oils.
Additional steam outlet or steam head installation details are given in the steam generator I&O manual Mr. STEAM GENERATOR MS90EC1 INSTALLATION MANUAL [PDF].
Above: when the steam generator runs for the first time, soldering paste left inside the copper piping between the steam generator outlet and the steam head will blow out and show up on the wall and floor below the steam outlet.
An ordinary household cleaner will remove that ugly grease and debris.
Below: the iTEMPO™ wall control cable plugged into its connector at the Mr. Steam generator.
Watch out: as we describe at Mr.STEAM MS90E TROUBLESHOOTING, routing of pipes and wires for the steam generator must be protected from damage including damage from a screw or nail driven later into a wall through which control cabling passes.
Above: Control cable (gray) and steam pipe routing (white insulated line) are routed between two stud walls from a Steamist® steam generator (NOT a Mr. Steam product) to the steam head and steam control in an interior bathroom wall. This example is from a different installation, not the Mr. Steam steam generator described in the rest of this article.
Contact information for Mr. Steam®, the manufacturer of the steambath generator described in this article and other steam equipment & information are given at STEAMBATH GENERATOR SOURCES.
Watch out: check with your doctor about any health limitations that would affect your individual case before spending time in any steam box or steam shower or steam room. (Press 1991)
Saunas, steam baths, and whirlpools—popular fixtures at health clubs—are safe means of relaxation, if used prudently. But ignoring the recommendations for moderate, commonsense enjoyment of these baths may expose users to health risks.
Watch out: for safe installation of this or any other heating equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions for both installation and use of the steambath, and make sure that your equipment and its installation comply with local plumbing and building safety codes.
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DOEs ANYONE KNOW THE PROPER SETTING FOR A HONEYWELL PA-404-A 1009 PRESTROL CONTROL FOR A WEIL-MCLANE STEAM BOILER - Rick 9/11/11
Rick the exact pressure needed varies by installation but in a low pressure residential steam system the pressure range is usually between 0.2 and 0.4 psi.
what's the term they call the 2 steam pipes that form an H above a steam boiler. in other words the pipes from both sides of the burner connected together?THANKS,Walter - 9/25/11
Walter: sorry we couldn't give an instant reply; sometimes the volume of reader questions is considerable and takes some time to get thorough.
I am guessing you are referring to the steam header or manifold piping that allows steam to enter more than one steam supply line or riser.
A second piping configuration that will be along side, not above, the boiler is the Hartford loop - a loop of piping sort of like an upside down trap that prevents water from siphoning out of the boiler should there be a leak in the condensate return line.
Wow, what a great web site. I am trying to identify a vessel on the side of an old National steam boiler/furnace. It is about 12-18" tall, about 8" diameter and is attached to a manifold in the side that is about 12" off the floor. It is heavily rusted. The boiler is an old coal fired converted to oil. Can I send you photos? Thanks, Stephen firstname.lastname@example.org or strentsch 10/4/11
sure Mr. Strentsch,
use the CONTACT link found at page top, left, or bottom to see our email and send along some sharp photos and we'll be glad to take a look
I blow the system down regularly and then make up the water in the sight glass. However I seem to be using significantly more water then years past whereas I'd top the sight glass every couple of weeks in the past compared to every other day now. What do you think the problem is? - Tom C 10.27.11
Tom C: a common reason for increased water consumption in a steam heating system is one or more radiator steam vents that are not closing properly. Check also for a leak in the condensate return line.
I’m happy to have found this website. I’m getting back into heating and cooling and need to prepare for higher license. Question: Is there a DVD collection you recommended as an additional studying tool? I see that Harold J. Frost, Frederick M. Steingress, Daryl R. Walker’s collection is close to 600.00 which is very steep for my pocket. Would you happen to know of a website or cheap place I can buy such DVD or a CD? If not these guys than another author is ok. Thanks for the feedback. Kym 11/23/11
Kym if you are looking specifically for information on steam heating I'd pick up any of Dan Holihan's books on steam heat. He's the best.
The HomeServ tech just left after installing a new auto water feeder, and the PSI gauge on my steam heater is off the chart, over 30 PSI. I shut it down and called HomeServ and they said leave it on and they'll come in the morning. How do I lower the PSI myself so I can leave it on tonight and my little kids (two with strep) don't freeze? Thanks! 2/22/2012
Watch out: If the PSI gauge is showing abnormal pressure and the gauge itself is working properly the system is unsafe and should be shut down. Call someone else and fire that tech - from your description the system sounds unsafe
I HAVE AN OIL BURNER HOT WATER SYSTEM MY EXPANSION IS DRIPPING WATER OUT THE AIR VALVE STEM AT THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK SHOULD I REPAIR OR REPLACE - Mike S 10/12/12
Mike, an air valve stem is replaceable, I would tr that first. Check also for abnormal system pressure ( an unsafe condition). But if the internal bladder of the tank has burst - another explanation for finding water at the air pressure adjustment valve, then most likely you need to replace the tank. You'll know this condition because the tank will become waterlogged, heavy, and ultimately the boiler TP valve will drip (another unsafe condition).
I have a one pipe steam system. My dining room radiator air vent was just replaced because the old one was leaking profusely (damaged my floors). The porch radiator air vent was also replaced because of too much steam condensation in the room, but now the open/close valve is leaking at the base. The radiator upstairs in middle bedroom is banging and clanking. The pipe that runs along the basement ceiling (finished basement) also bangs when the heat is coming on. My plumber cannot really give me an answer. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks p Rita 11/21/12
If you search InspectApedia for
BANGING STEAM PIPES
you can read about the diagnosis & cure of this problem
About the leaking valve - unfortunately that means you need another service call.
cleaned on a vav [?] system is leaking close the cilanod [solenoid ? -Ed] valve need to be replaced- Anon 11/23/12
See RELIEF VALVE LEAKS for procedures to diagnose and fix leaky TP relief valves.
Pressure on gas steam boiler was rising far too high, so high that the pressure relief valve released twice when it hit 15 psi (as it was supposed to do). Good buddy who really knows his stuff checked everything from pressure valve to pressuretrol. Nothing . He then checked "pigtail" and found blockage .Problem solved!! - Ken 11/24/12
Thanks for this note it may help other readers
My building uses steam heaters. I have no control over the heat in my unit because the thermostat is controlled by my landlord/owner who lives above me. However I have a small 1 bedroom with two heating units so even with all of the windows open, it can still get very hot. Is it okay for me to completely close the "open/close" black knob valves on my units or will that cause problems for the whole system? My landlord had previously told me not to touch the valves... Emily 12/10/12
Yes if the radiator control knob is not jammed or frozen you can try closing it partly or fully; radiator control knobs are intended to be a homeowner-resident-operator control. But if the knob is not easy to turn, don't force it as you might end up with a leak.
I have 2 yr. Boiler. It hisses like venting steam off and on loudly. Seems like when heat comes on venting starts until off. -Mr. Ed 12/28/12
Steam boilers include steam valves that hiss; we need more details.
I am having a pressure problem and it looks like one of my relief valve is leaking or letting the pressure out would this keep my boiler from running. It seems to be shutting off and I need to set the pressure all the time. is it as simple as changing the valve and resetting the Pressure? Rick 1/3/2013
See RELIEF VALVE LEAKS for procedures to diagnose and fix leaky TP relief valves.
II have a pressure of 28 psi and water is coming out of my return how can i lower the water pressure from my steam American standard boiler - Ronald 1/13/2013
Watch out: If your heater is a residential steam heating system it is operating at an abnormally high temperature and is unsafe. Turn the system off immediately and call your heating service company.
If your heater were a residential hot water heating boiler (hydronic heat) its pressure might be close to the upper end of normal operating pressure - and the leak at the valve could be due to a valve problem or to any of quite a few other causes. See RELIEF VALVE LEAKS for procedures to diagnose and fix leaky TP relief valves. See the links just below for information on how the steam heating system pressure is controlled and set.
(Mar 23, 2013) home able said:
Oil-fired steam boiler was functioning properly upto two weeks ago, now doesn't fully run to designated temperature on thermostat (digital). It will stop a degree or 2 short of desired setting even though thermostat says boiler is running. Why?
I'm not sure what's happening with your system. IN general the gauges are not lab grade precise. It's possible that your gauge or its sensor port are debris clogged. Try tapping gently on the gauge to see if the needle moves. Also watch the gauge to see its reading throughout the operating cycle.
(Apr 1, 2013) Luis said:
I have a gas bolier which continues to overflow. The sight glass floods even some pipes that run though the floor ang o up the wall with a steam trap a gauges at the to of the pipes. I called a company but they have not been able to find the problem.
Luis if the steam boiler keeps overflowing, or flooding, most likely the water feeder is out of order.
(june 19, 2014) anonymous said:
I have hot water baseboard system boiler in my crawlspace (.Basement) im thinking about replacing the boiler with a horizontal warm air furnace adams furnace. I keep getting freeze ups and they are very difficult to repair. The furnace adams make is supposed to be 95 percent efficient. Plus the fact there are no pipes to freeze is the warm air furnace the way to go? Thanks paul
You're commenting about hot water and hot air heat on a steam heat article - so this may be a bit confusing to other readers, but in general, conversion to another heating method is fine if you can bear the expense; each heating type has its pros and cons so IMO there is not a single "right" answer. Keep in mind that when you change from steam heat or hot water heat to forced warm air heat, your costs are much greater than just the heater itself as you have to install a heat delivery system : air ducts and registers. That can be convenient in some building designs and quite costly in others.
(Oct 16, 2014) Antonio said:
I just installed a 299 MBH gas fired steam boiler and connected to an existing system serving the second floor of an office building, approx floor area is 2,600 sq ft.
Existing EDR calculated as approx 900 sq. ft. The boiler started up successfully yesterday and I have been testing it ever since. Everything seems to be working fine. My question is what would be the right pressuretrol settings: I am using 1 psi cut-in and 1 psi differential and everything seems all right, but I may be missing something, maybe the boiler could work more efficiently with a lower or higher cut in pressure.
(Dec 15, 2014) Kevin M said:
I have a gas-fired steam boiler that has worked flawlessly since its installation six years ago. Suddenly it is overfilling. I let out several extra gallons a day to reduce the level in the sight glass. Should I replace the automatic feed? It is attached to the hot water heater, unlike previous installation I have had in other houses where it is connected to the cold water line. I sit possible that excess pressure from the expansion in the hot water supply line is forcing water past the automatic feed? What could cause this condition?
Over-filling of a heating boiler is indeed usually a problem with the automatic water feeder, more rarely leaks into the boiler from a tankless coil.
(Feb 15, 2015) Beverly Streeter said:
I live in a 16 unit apt complex. What make the heat clan and banging?
See the banging pipe diagnostic and repair suggestions at BANGING HEATING PIPES RADIATORS
(Apr 9, 2015) george said:
steam boiler heater runs for about 15 minutes then it cuts out
George I'm stuck on this one with no onsite data; could be related to heating of components, clogging of a filter, I dunno. It's time for an onsite heating service tech.
DO NOT keep pushing a re-set button. That's unsafe.
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