Oil burner installation, troubleshooting, diagnosis & repair FAQs
This article series provides a detailed guide to oil burners used on heating systems, boilers & furnaces: basic parts, operation, maintenance, repair, performance and heating cost money-saving tips.
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These questions and answers about oil burners were posted originally at OIL BURNERS - topic home, so be sure to review the installation, troubleshooting, and maintenance advice outlined there.
On 2018-09-08 by (mod) - industry standards for oil burner maintenance
Mike, if we note that typical model building codes and standards require that equipment be installed and maintained, among other things, in accordance with the product manufacturer's instructions, those would be pretty much the final word.
But certainly there are plenty of text books and guides for oil heat maintenance including oil burner maintenance for boilers, furnaces, & water heaters.
Here are a few examples, and more are at theReferences or Citations section of this article
On 2018-12-14 by Mike
Is there a written Industry Standard for oil burner maintenance?
That is to say, aside from burner manufacturer maintenance guides, is there a written standard?
On 2018-09-08 by (mod) - find source of oil puddles near oil burner
Debbie
Sorry but I can't stagno's the source of an oil leak from just your text. It could be that there was a spill during service or if the leak is continuing then there's probably a leaky or cross-threaded or damaged fitting in the oil piping, filter, or oil burner connections.
It should be easy to find by wiping Everything clean and then seeing what gets wet with heating oil.
On 2018-09-07 by Debbie
I had my oil burner cleaned by a professional company and oil supplier and afterwards I noticed oil piddling around my boiler,burner on floor.
I called co. They returned and claim to fix it but to no avail hours later oil puddles due to leaking oil and heavy oil odor in hourse. What is causing this? This was not a problem before when I've had my system cleanef.
On 2018-05-15 by (mod) - oil burner needed for asphalt processing / installation
Sorry, Gwguna, but we cannot provide the Oil burner that you asked about.
We do not sell anything.
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On 2018-05-15 by gwgunawancng1
Can help send to us beckett safety burner, I use to assimilate bitumen asphalt, I work in Asphalt Mixing Plant.
thank you
On 2018-03-20 by (mod) - get rid of fuel oil smell in house.
Maree
It's possible that oil-contaminated soil will need to be removed, but for an accurate answer you need guidance from an onsite expert.
If your home is in the U.S., most states have a department of environmental protection or department of environmental conservation to whom state law requires the reporting of an oil spill. That's also where you can get local advice.
On 2018-03-20 by Maree
Cannot get rid of fuel oil smell in house. Oil delivery man let oil overflow onto ground when filling above ground tank which is right outside house. Can’t seem to get an answer to problem. Thanks.
On 2018-01-01 by (mod) - baseboards not getting hot
Pierre,
I think you're describing hot water, not steam heat, See AIR-BOUND HEATING SYSTEMS
On 2018-01-01 by Pierre
I have a unit like this for heat and water or steam travel throught my base board heat in each room but i heat unit is working but im not getting any heat out of the baseboards and the hose is not hetting hot can some one please help me i have kids and i cant have a house with no heat
On 2017-12-11 by Rob
How much is the oil burner motor. And show me a picture of the part
On 2016-10-16 Diane ruth
Looking for instruction on how to flush oil burner thAt has low pressure and little hot water
On 2016-04-02 2 by (mod) - Pharaun Oil Insert
Sorry Alison, I don't have any information about a Pharaun Oil Insert - and was unable to find that product via web search.
Is this an oil-burning fireplace or fireplace insert? We'd need the product manufacturer's name, product name and model and other information that should be on a data tag attached to your device. With that perhaps I can help find some diagnostic information for you.
Use the page bottom CONTACT link to send me a sharp photo or two of your heater and I can work on that further.
On 2016-04-02 by Alison
Have a pharaun oil insert and it won't stay burning...help plz
On 2016-03-26 by (mod) - /heat/Oil-burner-for-asphalt-work-383-Gwguns.jpg
Joel,
Because a mistake can burn down the house or blow up the boiler I have to suggest hiring a professional and trained heating service tech. In the old days we could look at the smokiness of the flame and spit on the flue vent connector and with those alone we could reasonably adjust the draft and air intake of a low speed oil burner.
But modern high speed burners (3450 RPM) cannot be properly and safely adjusted without making some technical measurements such as oil pressure, CO2 level, smoke level, stack temperature, and draft both in the breech and over the fire.
That said, your service tech might install a smaller flow rate (gph) nozzle and re-adjust the other settings accordingly. It is also possible to set the fuel unit pressure down but typically not below 100 psi.
On 2016-03-26 by Anonymous
I have an old, National-U.S. Radiator, Carlin, oil fired residential, baseboard heating, furnace/hot water heater, that a couple years ago, was repaired by an outside contractor, replacing the then, All, Carlin brand oil burner equipment, with a new Becket, igniter, transformer-burner tube.
It still has the Carlin oil pump and firing relay, but the firing tube , transformer, and electrodes were changed to Becket brand. The oil firing nozzle is a 60 degree, I believe.
I myself once replaced the combustion chamber, and recently had to replace the igniter transformer, as an economic way of keeping heat in my home,without hiring the work, out! But now, the flame seems too intense in that modified combustion chamber and I'd like to turn it down, some!
Any tips, before I either try reinforcing the chamber walls, for security(my own!)or taking the igniter apart(mickey mousing it-dangerous!)Is there away to turn down the speed of the pump, maybe? Please see if you can help me. Thank you very much! Joel Wysocki-slywysocki@aol.com
On 2015-11-19 17:51:42.381706 by (mod) - replacing gaskets on old Chevron furnace
It sounds like a fire-resistant gasket just as you suggest.
Avoid running a vacuum cleaner, clean up with damp wipes;
Check with your HVAC supplier or if no success there check with a woodstove supplier for a replacement gasket that is not asbestos. I've used water glass and non-asbestos gaskets to replace these.
Gasket material is sold as ropes of different diameters and in lengths by the foot.
On 2015-11-18 by Laura
I have an older chevron furnace. There is a metal flap to the round "clean out door "that lifts up and there is a 3 by 3 inch seal/ gasket that resides on the underside of the flap door. I believe it is made of asbestos. Looks like a CD . It's fire resistant. It fell off in pieces when I lifted the door .
I have no idea what it's called or where to get one. I have been to a few local supply stores with no luck. Can someone atleast tell me what it is?
hi, our Deauville oil boiler is approximately 4 years old. It keeps going out and takes a couple of goes to re-light. Several people have been to look and have replaced parts but it still goes out at least once a day. Any ideas please??? - Mike
Mike I just don't have enough information to guess what's wrong.
But as parts have been replaced and you still have the problem, it's time to ask to speak to the manager of your heating company service department. Politely let him know that you've had multiple service calls without success, and ask him to send out a more experienced service technician. Let us know what you're told - it will help other readers.
for Jessie, who asked what might explain why the oil burner isnot working properly:
I can't list all possible problems, but Assuming you are describing a burner going off on reset, some things to check first are
. Air was bled properly
. Proper electrode placement
. Clean burner head
. Proper smoke level - typically near zero
. Clean neat looking flame
. Cad cell is attached in right position to see flame, properly wired, and clean itself (or a bad cad cell)
(Jan 9, 2013) steve said:
after a storm, a tree fell knocking power out to the house,several days later power was restored. whene i did an inspection of the house i found that the furnace[oil-fired]ran for several mins. and shut down. it seems that a fuse on a gray box keeps popping.furance was cleaned about a year ago, furance approx. 25 yrs old
With last oil burner service a year ago it's time for an oil burner cleaning and tune-up anyway. But a breaker that keeps tripping or fuse that keeps blowing suggests a more serious electrical problem. Could be a shorted wire or perhaps a frozen oil burner motor.
(Jan 26, 2014) sally said:
We used an oil company for about 17 years. Through these years they replaced our oil furnace (which resulted in a blowback)and removed our inground tank (about 4 years ago). We have never had a problem with the loss of heat unless it was due to a missed oil delivery and I have had the burner tuned up every year. Due to customer service issues, we recently switched oil companies. Since then, we have had 5 service calls in about a month, four of which occurred in the past week.
Our furnace keeps shutting down and we have to hit the reset button for it to start. At the tune up, they replaced a couple parts. The first service call, they changed something on the furnace because they really didn't know what the problem was.
Most recently, after cleaning the burner,the tech said the line was frozen and put MORE additive(from the previous day when they came out)to prevent the oil from gelling up and blew out the line FYI we have the "heat" additive in each fill during the winter months.
Now it is Sunday night and once again the burner has shut down. For over 17 years we've had NO problem and although these guys come highly recommended by friends and neighbors, is there any direction that we should be looking into besides their incompetence?
Sally, before giving up on your service company give the service manager a call, calmly and politely explain the ever unsuccessful service you received and ask him or her to send a highly expert service person to straighten things out.
Keep us posted.
(Feb 24, 2014) Bernard Mc Carron said:
I had a oil condensing boiler installed end of March 2013.
It seems very sore on fuel, constantly cycling 3 minutes 'off' and 6 minutes 'on'
Is this normal? I will have burned 2800 lts of fuel in one year and I am only using
my heating very sparlingly. i.e. average 8 hours a day. 5 single and 4 double radiators
in small semi-detatched bungalow. Would appreciate any advice.
Bernard.
Bernard, I can't be very precise without knowing the installation, but the complaint you cite is surely worth investigating.
First, if the system were installed and working properly it would be very odd to cycle on and off indefinitely at a regular cycle as you describe. But we don't know if the problem is:
- a bad thermostat or other control
- a building with horrible heat loss
- a heating distribution system problem - not getting heat where it's wanted
It would make sense to call your service company, talk calmly with the service manager, and ask for a senior, experienced technician to inspect, test, and diagnose the system.
(Mar 1, 2014) Jim C. said:
after about 3 or 4 minutes in the shower I run out of hot water, I have the temps set to 180/160 the mixer valve is closed. can you help me
Jim if your hot water is made by a tankless coil (as it appears) it may be that the controls on your system are not working properly; if the circulator sends hot water to the heating zones (baseboards or radiators) while you're in the shower, cold water returning from cold baseboards or radiators will chill down the water in the boiler, chilling the tankless coil and chilling you in the shower.
See TANKLESS COILS- or take a look
at AQUASTAT HI LO DIFF SETTINGS to be sure the control is properly set. If it is then the control may not be working properly.
(Aug 27, 2014) Chris D said:
Really need some help on this one.
I am having this problem. When my oil burner tries to start it goes into a short cycle with the burner firing for only about a second or two. Then about 5 or 6 seconds later the cycle will repeat with the one second try again.
I have narrowed the problem to the Zone Valve end switch opening and re-closing and I can also feel the zone valve at the lever, closing partially as the burner tries to start and opening the end switch.
Seem like I am getting a voltage drop at the zone valve large enough that the zone valve begins to close when the burner tries to start and opens the end switch and the cycle just keeps repeating. I have replaced the aquastat control due to a bad relay contact on the burner side.
Probably went bad due to the short cycling. Honeywell #L8148A1124
I have a seven zone system with honeywell zone valves running off a 100 va transformer. When I jump T to T on the control the burner runs fine.
I would appreciate any help.
Thank you
Chris
Chris
I'd diagnose by simplifying the analysis: skip the zone valves entirely and call for the burner to run right at the control terminals on the aquastat. If it's still short cycling the problem is in the cad cell or cad cell relay or the burner itself needs to be cleaned, serviced, adjusted.
(Sept 27, 2014) pooch said:
wayne oil burner; Trying to remove the whole unit to inspect the box, the unit(pump and motor) spins in the slots but won't pull out . Is there some kind of snap ring or clip holding it back that I don't see?
Pooch use our email found at our CONTACT link at page top or bottom to send me some photos of your system so I can see what you are asking about.
(Nov 5, 2014) Jack d said:
Water coming out of the over flow pipe on the side fine all summer until we turn the heat on then fills up a good size pan ?
Jack I'm unclear what "overrflow pipe" you mean but if you are talking about a relief valve on the oil fired heatig boiler, a discharge there means the system is at over-pressure, or it is at over-temperature (or the TP valve is leaking ) and repairs are needed. Else your system is unsafe.
Jack - what "overflow pipe" - if you refer to a relief valve, there should NOT be leaking there - the result would be unsafe and risk a very dangerous BLEVE explosion.
See details at RELIEF VALVE LEAKS
(Nov 23, 2014) Anonymous said:
Wow relief are set at 30 psi if water comes out of it three reasons why 1 bad expansion tank it's like a ballon in the roundish tank.2 bad pressure reducing valve that valve knocks down the street pressure to 12 psi around and can bypass this
(Nov 23, 2014) Jim kool mechanical said:
Boiler pressure should be around 18 psi there is a temperature pressure gauge on every boiler.tells you the boiler pressure and temperature.most home owners should know where it is and how to read it. never work on a hot boiler let it cool off. every home heating system has the ability to hurt the home owner,safety first people.most boilers are at 180 degrees,135 degree causes 3 degree BURNS.
(Nov 23, 2014) Anonymous said:
Relief valves need to be tested every year by activatingthe valve to flush it,many are not tested at all.gunk builds up ang cause higher boiler pressure than recommend.ONLY natural gas,propane can cause an explosion.
Anon you are not entirely correct: water heater tanks can explode as a BLEVE explosion; water pressure tanks can burst and have been known to cause fatalities when over-pressurized. "Explosion" as a term needs some clarification.
TP valves operate at a variety of pressures and temperatures and BTUH discharge rates according to the application. Details are at
inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Boiler_Relief_Valves.php
Jim Kool
Most hydronic heating boilers in one family homes operate at around 12 PSI COLD and heat to under 30 PSI when the boiler is operating. The cold-pressure may be a bit higher for homes requiring heat on a third floor.
Seeinspectapedia.com/heat/Heating-Temp-Pressure-Settings.php
(Dec 30, 2014) Walt said:
What causes oil to leak from the small hole at the bottom of the pump motor
Walt I suspect a leaky oil line connection - in turn that risks improper or even unsafe burner operation. Wipe the pump and nearby oil line fittings dry and watch to see where oil next appears. Let me know.
27 January 2015 Anonymous ( Chuck ) said:
Really need some Expertise! I got an beckett oil burner. Some times it will run for a cycle then need reset or it will run maybe for a few hours then need reset again and occasionally 3 days and need reset again.
Also i am using a power venter.
I replaced the pump,motor,igniter,controller,eye,and tip.Basically rebuilt the whole thing.
Also got the two line system running into a 55 gal drum to make sure the fuel lines where not getting any air.
I'm no expert that's why i'm here,But i'm thinking it's down to the power venter? Or would it maybe be a relay?
Thanks for any help.
Chuck
it may help diagnose this intermittent problem by being at the oil burner when it goes off on re-set (I know that's difficult). You want to know if the failure is in ignition, electrical power, or fuel delivery, or in venting. Also take a look at the combustion chamber and nozzle assembly for formation of soot whiskers, crud, cracked nozzle electrode ceramic insulators, and of course loose wires
...
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