Oil Burner electrode questions and answers.

In this article series we discuss how to diagnose oil burner electrodes or nozzle problems, how to inspect, clean, and adjust oil burner electrodes, and air turbulators used on heating oil burners found on residential & light commercial oil burners.

Oil Burner Electrode Setting & Adjustment Procedures

These questions and answers about troubleshooting, installing, setting, or repairing the electrodes on an oil burner were posted originally at OIL BURNER ELECTRODES - be sure to review the diagnostics given there.

[Click to enlarge any image]

These questions & answers were posted originally at OIL BURNER ELECTRODES - be sure to review that article.

Also see our OIL BURNER NOZZLE GUIDE - how to install, replace, choose the oil burner nozzle - as generally you replace the oil burner nozzle and adjust the electrodes at the same time.

On 2018-04-09 bby (mod) - braze on a tip to an electrode? Nah!

One could braze an electrode end to another but such a design is very likely to be improper and result in improper and unsafe oil burner operation.

If electrical continuity is perfect AND if the electrode shape doesn't cause shorting the brazed-on repair might work.

BUT: The right repair for a damaged oil burner electrode is to replace the pair with an OEM matched set. THus we have the proper angle, diameter, electrical continuity, tips.

On 2018-04-09 by John Kennedy

can two electrode be placed end to end and brazed? the current going through be the same? we just had one done like so .

On 2018-03-05 by (mod) -

T

I'm missing something so don't get the question

On 2018-03-05 by Tech

It’s on Connecticut s1 test. Should I just put wire strippers on a electrode that’s in my truck to see gauge of wire or are they being tricky with there question

On 2018-02-03 by (mod) - turbulence created by combustion byproducts & debris

Thank you for helping out, Stears HVAC. If you want to be identified and listed as a technical reviewer (and linked-to accordingly) just use the page top or bottom contact link to send us a note.

On 2018-02-01 by Stears HVAC

The turbulence created by the gunk build up during combustion can distort the cyclone action of the flame which can at times pull the light from the photo cad cell’s sensory range for a split second and will trip the control box.

On 2018-02-01 by Stears HVAC

@robert, when you pull the nozzle and electrode assembly out next time, take a bright flashlight and look down the blast tube and check to see if the the louvered end cap is dirty. The louvres on the end cap are just behind the flame from the nozzle.

During operation, the louvered cap at the end of the blast tube will create a cyclone with the forced combustion air and the flame, making it run like a mini jet engine. If it is obstructed from gunk build up it can start causing the cyclone to have turbulence and flutter at times

. If you were lucky and this is the case, you can use a small wire brush and a pair of machanics gloves to remove the airflow obstructions,

but in most cases, it is a result of years and years of build up that has been baked on to where you will be forced to remove fuel line/lines and disconnect power (of course power cut at switch or breaker first) and pull burner assembly completely out and replace it with a new one, after all that toil and mess, it wouldn’t make sense to try to clean it at that point. They are not expensive.

On 2017-12-30 by jim - build up of grizzle on the electrodes

i have a build up of grizzle on the electrodes that stops it from ignition after one cycle
what could it be???

On 2017-12-14 by (mod) - 10 to 15 seconds before you hear the fire ignite

Robert

It might be perfectly normal. Some oil burners use a delayed-start solenoid on the high pressure oil line to let the burner air inducer get up to full speed and to avoid ignition startup and shutdown problems that can otherwise speed fouling the burner.

On 2017-12-13 23:10:53.098618 by robert

I have a oil furnace, when the motor comes on it takes about 10 to 15 seconds before you hear the fire ignite is this normal

On 2017-12-12 14:48:06.052620 by Anonymous

I have an older Snyder oil furnace. It was tripping the safety shut off after trying g to start. I replaced the nozzle, cad cell and the fuel pump( also new air filter in air unit). Now it runs with a good flame for almost 5 minutes then the flame goes out and the cad cell trips the safety switch. Could the electrodes be failing at high temp?

On 2017-10-30 16:43:04.986336 by JOE

I HAVE A PLASTIC ELECTRODE GAUGE . I REQUIRE AN 80 DEGREE SETTING, THE GAUGE HAS 70 AND 80 DEGREES SETTING THE SAME IS THAT CORRECT?

On 2017-10-29 03:05:22.559905 by Bill Appel

I have a very very old ABC model 55J-1 oil burner assembly.
The nozzle supply tube is very gunked up inside.

Can I remove (unthread) the nozzle adapter fitting so as to remove the "static pressure disk"
for easier solvent cleaning of the inside of the oil pipe assembly?
I'm concerned that reassembling this adapter could allow leakage at the pipe (tubing) / adapter joint.

I understand that regular pipe dope in the (hot) combustion chamber is not recommended.
What type of joint sealant can be safely used here or is it even necessary here?
Also are any replacement parts available for this old unit?

On 2017-03-02 20:58:02.282061 by Anonymous

Thanks!

On 2017-03-02 17:31:17.718338 by (mod) -

I agree that when measuring electrode gap you measure between the closest points of the electrodes.

The other measures you cited are pretty standard. Click to enlarge that Beckett nozzle electrode gap measuring tool I photographed in the article above and you can see more detailed data on settings.

On 2017-03-01 19:44:04.426028 by Bob Smith

Dan I contacted Michelle at the number given, she was not having any luck but was so awesome in her efforts, this is a march 89 furnace and she was going to check with a guy who had been there forever (lol). Appreciate it.

On 2017-03-01 by (mod) - Bob has set the electrodes to 1/8th gap, 1/8th past tip, 1/2 above orifice.

The letter after the nozzle size is spray or atomization pattern - but the meaning of the letter may vary depending on the nozzle brand.

A 1.1 gph is a much bigger firing rate and may not have been needed - most efficient is to fire with a smaller gph if possible.

On 2017-02-28 by Bob Smith

Thanks Dan, will call them, nothing anywhere I could find. Has Webster pump and transformer/coil but no markings I could find other than firing rate range.

I set them to 1/8th gap, 1/8th past tip, 1/2 above orifice. The electrodes are kind of a scarf cut, not point like some so I measured off the closest point of the tips. It fired off super fast and seems to be doing fine. It did have a lot of slag looking crud in burner housing below the electrodes.

The tech who looked at it in Jan changed it from a .85 80 deg b to a W, not sure what that is, all I could find was "special". It came with 1.1 and was firing pretty hot. Thanks again.

On 2017-02-28 17:25:13.406392 by (mod) - contact for Ducane oil burner manuals

Bob:
You need the oil burner manual for your specific model. While I found a few old oil burner manuals when searching for Ducane, none match the exact model number you cite.

Usually the electrode settings, nozzle requirement, and turbulator specifications as well as other details are right on a sticker on the oil burner itself. If your burner
lacks that information,
I'd contact Ducane - see DUCANE, bought by Lennox 1999 - also see LENNOX HVAC MANUALS & PARTS GUIDES

On 2017-02-28 1 by Bob Smith

I have a 80's Lennox oil fired furnace, OF 16-155, Ducane burner DMR-15A1. Where can I find the electrode setting specs?

On 2016-06-07 23:29:06.921893 by (mod) -

Sounds like a fuel blockage problem; keep in mind that modern oil burners can no longer be properly tuned and adjusted by spitting on the flue vent connector and eyballing the smoke.

Watch what happens to the flame - is the unit going off on safety reset? If so it probably is not establishing a flame in the first place. DON"T keep pushing the reset button as you risk a puffback explosion. Search InspectApedia for OIL BURNER PUFFBACK to read details.

On 2016-06-07 21:25:49.987398 by paulbon1961@gmail.com

My furnace starts up runs for 20 seconds then stops running I changed filter nozzle an cleaned inside furnace

On 2015-11-23 01:14:19.579006 by (mod) -

Paul, are two different systems for firing oil burners. Intermittent ignition that only sparks during startup and continuous ignition that sparks all of during the time that the burner is on. Most residential modern oil burners are continuous ignition not intermittent ignition.

On 2015-11-22 06:23:20.220421 by paul

The electrodes on my burner continue to spark after the burner has fired up any ideas why?

On 2015-11-17 14:22:25.844548 by (mod) -

Sure Bodh

Search InspectApedia.com for OIL BURNER PUFFBACK to read the details.

Watch out: your system needs service and is at risk of a dangerous puffback explosion.

On 2015-11-17 12:17:57.132157 by Bodh Raj arora

My burner backfires .I shall like to know the reason

On 2015-11-13 00:48:07.852278 by Anonymous

I don't think so
Sounds like fhe system is not getting up to temp, though. I'll think about it

On 2015-11-12 23:41:57.349631 by Kelly

I have a question about my oil furmace. It is a little bit older beckett motor on a new honeywell furnace. We tried to turn it on and as we are bleeding the line no air comes out so when we shut off the blender the motor cuts out. And then resets the switch on the motor. Is this a clogged nozzle?

On 2015-11-06 16:21:54.654253 by (mod) -

Tim:

Ask your tech to install a "quick-stop" valve on the oil line between the oil burner fuel unit outlet and the nozzle line. That should cure it; typically there are two causes of this problem:

- there is oil getting into the oil piping system - when the fuel unit stops the air expands, pushes un-burned or incompletely burned oil out the nozzle end, continuing the burn but smoky - this can also lead to a dangerous Puffback explosion.

- the built-in stop valve in the fuel unit is dirty and not closing fully

same risk

On 2015-11-06 02:05:25.853849 by Tim

Hi, I hope there is someone out there that can shed some light on this problem I'm having with my Beckett Oil Burner. I am having smoking issues on shutdown. When the T-Stat kicks off and the blower continues to run for a few minutes, smoke pours out of the left side. (By the air adjustment/pump side) It doesn't happen every cycle. Normally only after a few starts when the space is up temp and it's running to keep it constant. I noticed it when the house had a smell. I thought it was a combustion issue so I introduced fresh air but the problem remains. Leak? Nozzle? Any ideas?

On 2015-10-10 08:02:33.536891 by Anonymous

Where do i find electrode adjustment space fore aero oil fired boiler

On 2015-09-27 19:40:57.236158 by Anonymous

WHERE DO I FIND ELECTRODE ADJUSTMENT SPECS FOR AERO OIL HOT WATER HEATER

On 2015-06-22 05:29:56.681780 by sudhirkumar

In an interview for the mechanical maintenance job they asked me the power and fuel savings that can be achieved in a boiler operation. kindly suggest me your way of doing this.

On 2015-04-30 21:54:28.233100 by (mod) -

Use the "Click to Show or Hide FAQs" link just above to see recently-posted questions, comments, replies

Question: In cleaning my oil burner assembly I bumped the electrodes - I'm not sure if there is a problem

I cleaned my nozzle and bumped my electrodes but I think I got them set back where they go. I put them back in. I started my furnace and now it runs fine. It runs till it gets to proper set thermostat setting then kicks off.

The relay control cell seems a little hot at the back closest to furnace. I checked to see if working properly by pushing red switch when running and when pushed down it stops and let up it continues.

Is this normal the heat at back of gray box? Also could you do damage if your electrodes are a hair off?

I don't know I am just paranoid now! The flame constantly runs with motor till it heats to proper temperature then kicks off. - Mark Freed 2/20/12

Reply:

Mark:

If there is an oil burner adjustment or cleaning or draft problem, one result could be back pressure in the combustion chamber.

The oil burner may start and run, but back pressure sends heat back up the burner tube where it can overheat (and destroy) the ignition transformer and it may also heat up the primary or cad cell control mounted on the same assembly.

If the electrodes are a "hair" off - that would be about 25 to 50 microns, and not important. But if the electrodes are more than 1/16" off of proper position (see the Beckett template above), or if the ignition transformer is failing, adjustment and replacement may be in order.

Mark follow-up:

(Jan 20, 2013) Mark said:

25 to 50 microns? Don't you mean 25 to 50 thousands of an inch? Good grief - 50 microns is slightly less than 0.002". No one, not even the factory, is going to be able to adjust the electrodes with that kind of tolerance!

Reply:

Right Mark. As I said a "hair off" - a human hair is about 25-50 microns in diameter. The point is that being "a hair off" would not explain electrode malfunction.

Question: oil burner electrode gap, weak spark, questionable transformer

4/7/2014 FRED said:

FranceFormer 5lay-03...I had to reduce my electrode gap below specks to get an ignition on Wayne MSR-C burner...

shorting transformer terminals with insulated screwdriver yielded a spark of less than 1/4...Is this a sign of a failing 10,000 volt transformer... or is the output an all or none deal? BURNER SEEMS TO BE WORKING FINE.

Reply:

Fred,

It sounds as if your transformer is bad. I'd replace it.

Watch out: backpressure in the combustion chamber can cause heat to back up the combustion tube and cook the transformer. A clue would be oil leaking out of the component.

Assuming we've got voltage to the transformer, other causes of weak spark between electrodes include

- cracked ceramic insulators and shorting out of the current to the oil burner metal body
- too-wide a gap (not your case)
- poor electrical contact between the transformer springs and the metal rode of the electrodes

Question: had to reduce the electrode gap on the oil burner

(Apr 6, 2014) FRED said:

FranceFormer 5lay-03...I had to reduce my electrode gap below specks to get an ignition on Wayne MSR-C burner...shorting transformer terminals with insulated screwdriver yielded a spark of less than 1/4...Is this a sign of a failing 10,000 volt transformer... or is the output an all or none deal? BURNER SEEMS TO BE WORKING FINE...

Reply:

Fred,

It sounds as if your transformer is bad. I'd replace it.

Watch out: backpressure in the combustion chamber can cause heat to back up the combustion tube and cook the transformer. A clue would be oil leaking out of the component.

Assuming we've got voltage to the transformer, other causes of weak spark between electrodes include

- cracked ceramic insulators and shorting out of the current to the oil burner metal body
- too-wide a gap (not your case)
- poor electrical contact between the transformer springs and the metal rode of the electrodes

Reader follow-up:

(Apr 10, 2014) FRED again said:

Prior to reducing the gap... when it was set at 1/8"spec a thin filament(my guess carbon)would develop on the end of one of the electrodes...it would grow and flop around and eventually bridge the gap and connect with the other electrode(my guess on shutdown)closing the circuit and preventing ignition spark.

I suspect the transformer was already failing and a normal 10,000V spark would have blown the carbon filament away. WHAT SAY YOU...have you heard this filament story before. New nozzle,insulators and electrodes...good spring buss bar contact

Reply:

(Apr 10, 2014) (mod) said:

Yes Fred it's common to see a whisker of crud grow between and short nozzle electrodes, caused by any of several snafus:

- improper electrode alignment: not just the gap width but the height and front-to-rear positioning. See the Beckett nozzle guide in the article above for some example specifications, though those for your burner may be different;

- wrong nozzle spray angle or pattern or size

- dirty turbulator cone

- improper burner combustion air adjustment

- air in the oil lines, dirty starts an stops

- transformer failure

- something else I've forgot

Question: use Beckett brand oil burner electrodes in an Aero oil burner?

(Dec 22, 2014) Lloyd said:
I have an Aero burner, can Beckett brand electrodes be used in this burner?

Reply:

Lloyd

I think that you're ok as long as the electrodes, including the metal electrodes themselves and the ceramic insulators and their end connectors that marry the oil burner transformer power supply contacts are in all regards the right dimensions.

...

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Recommended Articles

• OIL BURNER INSPECTION & REPAIR - home
• OIL BURNER NOZZLE GUIDE - how to install, replace, choose the oil burner nozzle
• AUDELS OIL BURNER GUIDE, INSTALLING, SERVICING, REPAIRING

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