This article describes prevention of crawl space or basement water entry on buildings where gutters are not installed.
We use a combination of buried geotextile & waterproof membrane along with careful surface grading to conduct roof spillage away from the structure.
Page top photo: this U.S. home in New Hampshire is in an area where heavy snowfall makes keeping gutters on a home difficult. Many people simply give up, installing an ice-dam-leak flashing along the roof eaves and stopping there.
Our arrows show:
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As we illustrate in this sketch, courtesy of Carson Dunlop Associates, to keep roof spillage and surface runoff water out of a building's basement or crawl space, the minimum slope away from a building should be 1" in drop of 12" of run when permeable surfaces and soils are present.
[Click to enlarge any image]
Details about proper site grading to handle surface runoff and groundwater, including swales (shown below) are
at GRADING, DRAINAGE & SITE WORK. Excerpts are below.
Here we also comment on NO-GUTTER SYSTEMS - eaves attachments that claim to make gutters unnecessary.
At grade:
the main object is to get water away from the foundation as quickly as possible.
Finish grade should slope away from the building for at least 10 to 15 feet, and should not contain low spots that will make water ponds.
Swales:
if one or more sides of the building face an upwards sloping hill, slope the finish grade away from the building for at least 10-15 feet, and then shape the finish grade at that point into a swale that itself continues to carry water around to the downhill side of the building.
If the building roof system includes gutters and downspouts:
do not tie the downspouts into the footing drains - you will simply overload the footing drain system and risk future basement water entry.
We want to see gutters extended to release roof drainage no less than 10 feet from the home, more is better. Even more important, from the point at which water leaves the downspout end, it should continue to flow away from the building, not back towards it.
But what if we can't keep gutters on a building?
Our photos show what we think is a sump pump installation at the Bethlehem Lutheran Church in Two Harbors, Minnesota.
The stumps in our first photo indicate that the church had recently removed a lot of shrubbery that was growing close to the building foundation walls, and we see white PVC pipes extending out from the foundation wall.
The wet areas and erosion may mean that there's probably one or more sump pumps working to remove water from inside the church basement. (We haven't inspected the church interior.)
The best approach to stopping basement water entry in any building, if it is at all possible, is to stop water from entering the building in the first place.
Most basement water entry in buildings comes from roof spillage close to the foundation wall, sometimes exacerbated by in-slope grade that sends surface runoff towards the foundation.
This Two Harbors site is pretty flat and it looks as if, close to the foundation wall, there is actually a slight depression that discourages roof spillage from draining away from the building.
Now in Two Harbors, where the soil is high in clay content, we can't say for sure how much the basement water entry problem at this building originates at the roof, but take a look at the next photograph, just below.
As is common in heavy snow country, there are no gutters installed on the church roof edges. All rainwater and snow-melt will be dumped right along the foundation wall.
A careful interior inspection of this building can give us more details about the source of water entry. If the building plans do not include maintaining a working roof gutter and downspout system, then we might consider a subsurface membrane that can prevent water from leaking down along the foundation wall and into the building.
If we combine a waterproof membrane and geotextiles to protect it with finish grading that slopes well away from the building, we can prevent basement water entry even where we can't keep gutters working on a building.
Below we illustrate a waterproof drainage mat, in this installation installed against a foundation wall. The same detail can work buried under soil and sloped away from a building.
We've used this solution successfully on older buildings such as a metal-roofed barn in a climate where snowfall made it difficult to keep a working roof gutter system on the building.
The owners gave up on gutters, buried a waterproof membrane deep enough to allow grass cover, and incorporated finish grading that allowed the roof runoff to be directed at least fifteen feet down-slope and away from the building.
Watch out: if these are sump discharge lines that have to work during Two Harbor's cold winters, frost protection may be needed otherwise the sump system simply become ice-clogged.
At SUMP PUMP DISCHARGE we discuss protecting the sump pump discharge from freezing and we explain what happens to a basement or crawl space "de-watering" system when the sump outlet is frozen.
Watch out: if you plan to implement a "no gutters" solution to control roof spillage and prevent basement or crawl space water entry, you may need to provide a gravel spill area close to the building as part of measures to prevent rain splash-up damage to building siding.
Some contractors may call this feature a drip path, constructed of pavers or stone on the ground under the roof eaves and sloped away from the building. We prefer No. 4 crushed stone as that breaks up falling water droplets and causes less splash-up onto foundation walls than does a solid block or stone surface.
The vertical wood siding below was severely damaged from roof spillage and splash-up.
See details at SIDING DAMAGE by SPLASHBACK
and see types and sources of geotextiles
at GEOTEXTILES & DRAINAGE MATS
What about products sold as a "substitute for gutters" such as rain dispersant louvers that are installed at roof edges?
Our OPINION is that roof edge drainage louvers or "gutterless" systems are useful if your building is in an area where there is rarely any rainfall, or if you have installed an extensive sub-soil water interception system around a building to perfectly protect the foundation from leaks and water entry (such as buried horizontal geotextiles and gravel that collect all surface water and conduct it away from the building).
Watch out: otherwise, your roof runoff will still spill close to the building where that concentration of water invites basement or crawl space water entry and related damage.
Besides a drip path and buried membranes plus correcting surface drainage, the following "no gutter" solutions, are in our opinion, helpful but less effective and more trouble-prone in getting water away from a building.
Below: the chain is attached to the downspout end-drop opening at this building in Rhinebeck, New York.
Below and the gutter rain chain is anchored to the gruond below.
Below: photos of a channel drain to catch and divert roof runoff.
The small rectangular drain at the entry of the garage above may be ineffective at keeping water
from gushing down the driveway and into the garage.
...
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