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Mobile home pier (C) Daniel Friedman Mobile Home or Doublewide FAQs on Piers Stabilizers, Tie-downs, Multi-wide connections

Q&A on mobile home piers & stabilizers.

This article series describes how to install, inspect, repair manufactured or mobile home piers, stabilizers, tiedowns. Common mobile home structural defects: Piers, stabilizers and tie-down for mobile homes, trailers, double-wides, multi-wide connections. Safety and building codes for mobile homes, double-wides, and trailers, also some campers.

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Mobile Home Pier Foundations

Abandoned mobile home (C) Daniel Friedman

These questions & answers about piers or columns used as support below mobile homes, trailers, doublewides were posted originally at MOBILE HOME PIERS - so be sure to review the advice given there.

Question: are 3x3 foot rubber pads under concrete blocks ok as support for a mobile home in Ohio

2019/09/24 Brian said:

We live in a community and they are bringing in new homes and putting 3ft by 3ft rubber mates down then concrete blocks is that legal in Ohio

This question was posted originally at MOBILE HOME CODES, STANDARDS & MANUALS

Reply: yes ... but with some details

Brian

Thank you for asking about whether or not simple pads are permitted as the base for piers or jackstands used to support mobile or manufactured homes - to serve as the home's foundation.

The general answer is yes, provided the soil and surface are properly prepared, stable, etc.

Here is a critical excerpt from the HUD guide I'll cite below.

... The allowable bearing capacity of the soil is a measure of its strength and ability to carry the weight of the pier without settling or compressing. Soil bearing capacity, measured by a penetrometer or other methods and
expressed in units of pounds per square foot, is generally classified in the range of 1500–4500 psf soil (see Characteristics of major soil types on page 2.2). Pads for piers should be set on compacted or undisturbed (not loosened by digging or plowing) soil.

Organic or loose matter, such as weeds, trash, and other objects, must be cleared away and then the area for the pad scraped until solid, undisturbed soil is exposed. If this is not done, uneven settlement can occur.

Here are some pertinent sections of the

Ohio Mobile Home Code

You'll see that jackstands or stacked concrete block piers are often used beneath manufactured homes (mobile homes) but in my OPINION it is essential that the soil be sufficiently compacted, stable, flat, and protected from surface runoff that could otherwise undermine the foundation support system.

Ultimately the local building code official where you live is the final legal authority on what she or he will permit.

4781.11 License required for installation.
(A)

(1) Except as provided in division (B) of this section, no person shall install manufactured housing unless that person is licensed as a manufactured housing installer pursuant to this chapter or unless a licensed manufactured housing installer is present during the installation and supervises the person who is not licensed.

(5) "Permanent foundation" means permanent masonry, concrete, or a footing or foundation approved by the division of industrial compliance of the department of commerce pursuant to Chapter 4781. of the Revised Code, to which a manufactured or mobile home may be affixed.

(6) "Permanently sited manufactured home" means a manufactured home that meets all of the following criteria:

(a) The structure is affixed to a permanent foundation and is connected to appropriate facilities;

In Ohio I do not find clear, explicit description permitting nor prohibiting "pads" instead of frost-protected footings or piers - which makes me nervous.

See

and this HUD guide that offers more details about mobile home foundations:

Additional excerpts besides the one quoted just above:

... If properly designed, crawl space foundation systems can be used in flood plains. Other suitable foundation systems include reinforced piers and pile foundation systems.

... The pier and ground anchor foundation system has long been the common and accepted manufactured home support and anchorage system. It adapts easily to local site conditions, does not require a great deal of dimensional precision, and goes into place quickly.

In the most frequently used configuration, piers are installed under the main beams of the home sections, under the mating line of multi section homes and at other points designated by the home manufacturer

... Perimeter piers or blocks may also be a part of the home's support system. The most common pier types are steel jack stands or hollow core concrete masonry blocks with open cells placed vertically and stacked one on top of the other to the required height

On 2018-07-01 by (mod) - How many straps must go completely over the trailer and how far apart.

Gregory

Please see MOBILE HOME STABILIZING SYSTEMS

for "straps" or tie-down requirements for mobile homes.

On 2018-06-29 by Gregory T Malarkey

How many straps must go completely over the trailer and how far apart.
How many anchor straps must anchor the chassis and how far apart

On 2018-05-02 by (mod) - All of the piers are double except one is this a concern?

Lynn

You as important questions but not ones I can answer, even by guessing, with so little information.

It would make sense to ask an experienced home inspector, building inspector, or if they're willing, a local building code compliance officer where you live to take a look at your home for safety first. You can also try the page top EXPERTS DIRECTORY link given on all of our pages.

On 2018-05-02 by Lynn

My email for my recent request is attune@telus.net Thanks

All of the piers are double except one is this a concern? Also recently hear a cracking nose in the hall (centre) of a double wide here and there. It is a 1983 model, and was thinking of doing some blow in insulation in the attic, how is thr R rating for this age home? We also can not find access to the attic. Thanks for your help

On 2017-05-13 by (mod) - When a metal roof is leaky

Nancy,

When a metal roof is leaky usually there is a flashing error or less common, an installation error such as mis-placement of fasteners.

First: establish that the stains you see are in fact due to leaks, not ghosting or thermal tracking (use the search box just above to search InspectApedia for those terms to read details).
Particularly when a metal roof is put over an existing building there can be condensation collecting under the new roof from the building interior (warm moist air).

Consider that while asphalt shingles over a wood roof structure will pass some interior or roof cavity air and moisture out through the roof surfaces and more out through roof ridge venting, once you cover the roof with metal, having a permeability rating close to zero, no indoor moisture escapes.

Second: Roof leaks at the apex or "ridge" are less common since there's the least amount of water on that part of your roof during rain or snow-melt, though wind-blown rain can cause leaks in that area.

If the stained areas are wet or if there is other evidence of roof leaks, then your roof inspector / repair person should find and describe to you just where the problem is and what's required to repair it I would not at all expect that roof replacement were needed.

On 2017-05-13 y Nancy Stephens - areas of discoloration have appeared on the apex of my ceiling

Several areas of discoloration have appeared on the apex of my ceiling and also where the walls meet the ceilings in my mobile home. The original shingled roof was covered approximately 7 years ago by a brand new tin roof and the tin is still in perfect condition (No obvious rust spots). What are my options to repair rather than replace this roof?

On 2016-09-03 by (mod) -

Betty Jo,

There are screw-type mobile home jacks sold by mobile home manufacturers and suppliers and also at some building suppliers such as Lowes and Menards. The jack is a steel tripod base with a heavy screw and pad that are used to lift the home sufficiently to repair the piers.

I would not rely on a few bricks nor dry-laid stacks of bricks nor even dry laid blocks. I'd want to see a concrete pad or footing or pier and a solid masonry pier constructed to support the home. But you will do best by asking your local building inspector what they will accept as safe.

Also depending on where you live, tie-downs and other storm damage protection features could be required for safety.

On 2016-08-31 by Betty Jo

I have 3 broken blocks under the add-on to my 1974 mobile home. They are near a corner. What type of 'jack' would I use to lift and secure it to replace the broken bricks. Are there requirements for what type of bricks to use in replacing the broken ones?

On 2016-07-23 1 by (mod) - homes do not "pass" nor "fail" a condition-of-property inspection

Heather:

Unfortunately homes do not "pass" nor "fail" a condition-of-property inspection. Rather, the inspector tells the buyer what unsafe or costly conditions she or he finds at the building and that will need attention.

Inspectors vary in their experience, competence, and also in the extent to which they are actually working for their client rather than for the real-estate industry. So not all inspection results will be the same, even for the same property if it had been inspected at the same time.

I suggest that you find a local manufactured home or doublewide home installer close to you and get an estimate of the cost to install missing piers and tie-downs that may be required by local building codes. You might then use that figure in negotiating a final sale price for the home. I doubt that it's a thosands of dollars problem.

On 2016-07-22 2 by Heather

Also, what are the options on how to fix the problem with out it costing a lot.

My husband and I are trying to sell our home we have a double wide with piers and tie downs. The inspector came buy to inspect the home for a sale and stated that there are no piers to support the middle of the home. I'm confused as to how my husband was able to buy the home 10 years ago and that it passed inspection. ???

On 2016-06-01 by (mod) - top priorities of manufactured home repair

Assure safe electrical power

Stop any leaks

Remove any wet moldy materials

On 2016-05-21 by Nancy Stephens

Thank you for your input to my March 6, 2016 inquiry about my home's block piers. T

hose block piers now sit on large molded plastic "crates" to avoid any further settlement into the sand. Do you have an opinion on what should be my next step in remodeling my mobile home, literally,"from the ground up"?

On 2016-03-06 by (mod) - assure stable pad under the mobile home

Nancy:

I would sure want stable pads below the piers below a mobile home lest we have not just sticky doors but ripped or damaged plumbing, wiring, etc - those could be dangerous. Be sure also that your home has tie-downs depending on wind loads and code for your area.

On 2016-03-06 y Nancy Stephens

My 24' x 48" double wide mobile home is sitting on block piers that sit on sand. The original piers have settled and have caused doors to be off kilter and some of the windows have cracked or refuse to open.

I had a company come out to re-level the floor to an extent, but should I have the piers reset on to concrete pads before beginning a total renovation from the floor up?

Question: failing masonry block piers below a mobile home

4/24/14 Anonymous said:

Hi, me my husband live in a 3 bedroom mobile home and it is on a hillside and it has been here now for 18 years and is starting to come off the blocks and we do have tie downs on it.

My question is if we get more tie downs will it hold in place for awhile until we can find someone to come and re-block it.

Reply: having an idea how much pier movement has occurred, how rapid, over what period of time, & what's its cause can help determine the level of risk and the priority of repair

I really can't guess without having a better idea what is the cause, what is the rate of movement, and what site conditions might lead you to expect that the movement will continue slowly versus reach a point of sudden dangerous collapse that could lead to serious injury or worse.

You need to have some idea of why the mobile home is moving and what risks are involved.

And you want to have some idea of how much movement has already occurred. If the building is basically level and the total movement you see is trivial then you might have time to wait for repairs.

Even small movements can be dangerous if they rupture a gas line or an electrical connection, and movements that break the waste piping can create a health hazard.

If you can find an engineer who has experience with foundations, piers, and who knows the geology and soil conditions where your home is located, that'd be the best person to ask to take a look at the situation.

If you can't find or can't afford such an expert, a local foundation contractor or excavator who is experienced and knows the area might be able to give at least a simple initial opinion even if it's one that is less qualified or less expert.

Finally, if there is no movement of the soil or hillside and if the problem is entirely one of poorly built or deteriorated supporting block piers, that should be less worrisome and easier to fix even if one simply added additional temporary support as blocking or a similar system. For that task ask a local mobile home installer for assistance.

Question: (Jan 10, 2013) summer said: trailer is falling apart, is it fixable?

Hi me and my mom and my siblings and my two young kids live in a 3 bedroom trailer and its falling apart I need to see if its fixable or not

Reply: set repair priorities for a mobile home - Dan's 3-D's

Summer, if you are not able to do the work yourselves, which sounds like th case, I think you need to start with asking for an inspection and a repair cost estimate from a local contractor who repairs mobile homes.

Be sure to focus on and plan the financing of repairs in this order:

1. Fix things that are dangerous, that could kill or hurt someone, including not just slip and fall hazards but electrical or heating hazards or fire hazards including missing safe exit doors or stairs and inadequate structural support and tie downs (if you are in a high wind zone)

2. Fix things that flat don't work and that you need, like flushing toilets or running water

3. Fix things that are causing rapid costly damage to the home such as serious roof leaks or leaks in walls that are rotting the structure, inviting in termites or carpenter ants, or are damaging the heating or electrical or other systems.

Those three things are the top repair priorities.



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MOBILE HOME PIER FAQs at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.


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