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EXTERIORS of buildings
ARCHITECTURE & BUILDING COMPONENT ID
BEST CONSTRUCTION PRACTICES GUIDE
BOOKSTORE - EXTERIORS
CAULKS & SEALANTS, EXTERIOR
DOORS, ENERGY EFFICIENCY
EXTERIOR WALL SIDING TRIM & FINISHES
FLASHING MEMBRANES PEEL & STICK
FLASHING SIDING DETAILS
FLASHING WALL DETAILS
FLASHING WINDOW DETAILS
HOUSEWRAP / SHEATHING WRAP
HOUSEWRAP INSTALLATION DETAILS
HOUSEWRAP PRODUCT CHOICES
HUMIDITY LEVEL TARGET
INDOOR AIR QUALITY & HOUSE TIGHTNESS
LEED GREEN BUILDING CERTIFICATION
MOISTURE CONTROL in BUILDINGS
ODORS & SMELLS DIAGNOSIS & CURE
PORCHES & Sunrooms
SOUND CONTROL in buildings
THERMAL EXPANSION of MATERIALS
THERMAL IMAGING, THERMOGRAPHY
THERMAL MASS in BUILDINGS
VAPOR BARRIERS & CONDENSATION in buildings
VAPOR BARRIERS, VINYL SIDING
VENTILATION in BUILDINGS
VINYL CHLORIDE HEALTH INFO
VINYL Siding or PLASTIC Window ODORS
WATER BARRIERS, EXTERIOR BUILDING
WINDOWS & DOORS
This article describes the proper flashing details for exterior doors to avoid air leaks, rot, decay, and energy losses at doors. In this article series we discuss the selection and installation of windows and doors, following best construction and design practices for building lighting and ventilation, with attention to the impact on building heating and cooling costs, indoor air quality, and comfort of occupants. We review the proper installation details for windows and doors, and we compare the durability of different window and door materials and types.
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Doors are flashed the same as windows on the sides and top, and similarly at the sill. Clad door frames are flashed like clad windows (see our window flashing illustrations below, Figures 3-13, Figure 3-15, Figure 3-16) and solid wood frames are flashed like traditional windows with brickmold (Figures 3-17 also below).
[Click to enlarge any image]
Figure 3-13: Installing Flange-type WIndows Over House-Wrap
Figure 3-15: Installing Flange-type Windows Before the House Wrap is Applied
Figure 3-16: Installing Flange-type Windows with Felt Paper
Figure 3-17: Installing Windows with Brickmold Trim
Unless a door is well-protected by a porch or large overhang, good pan flashing at the sill is critical to prevent water from seeping into the floor framing. Doors leading to patios and decks are particularly vulnerable to wetting around the sill from splashback and, in cold climates, from snow buildup.
Prefab plastic door pans typically come in three sections that are fused together at the required length with solvent-based cement. Metal pans require a brake to form and should be caulked or, preferably, soldered at corners.
In fact the absence of effective flashing at this 20-year-old sliding glass door led to the need for a complete door, door jamb, and trim replacement on this Poughkeepsie home.
When the new door was installed we included a sit-built pan flashing and membrane flashing around the door for a more durable replacement.
Peel-and-stick membranes have become increasingly popular due to their ease of use and flexibility. Whether to use a metal pan, plastic pan, or peel-and stick membranes is a matter of personal preference as all work well (see Figure 3-26 below).
Whatever material is used, all pans should have a dam on the ends and along the inside edge. On the exterior, the pan flashing should lap over the deck or masonry flashing below. If forming a pan with peel-and-stick membrane, carry it up the sides at least 6 inches, and turn up the inside edge so it is held in place by the underlayment or finish flooring (Figure 3-27 above).
-- Adapted and paraphrased, edited, and supplemented, with permission from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction.
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