Q&A about the cellophane strip found on / between asphalt roof shingles.

This article series answers the question: " Should we remove the cellophane strip over the shingle adhesive when nailing shingles or should it be left in place?"

FAQS: Should the Cellophane Strip on the Back of Asphalt Shingles be Pulled Off? (No).

These questions and answers about leaving vs removing the cellophane strip on the back of asphalt roofing shingles were posted originally

at ASPHALT SHINGLE CELLOPHANE STRIP REMOVAL - please review the discussion there.

Our photo (left) shows the cellophane strip found on the back or "down" side of a typical asphalt roof shingle. This one is a GAF™ product.

[Click to enlarge any image]

Question: why are there glue strips or spots on asphalt shingles ?

(Apr 2, 2014) Pat said:

I have installed the shingles on my house and removed the cellophane and in the 20 years since then I have not lost one shingle.

I moved to a senior housing development and the roofs here are 14 years old and low and behold we had a wind storm and shingles are all over the place along with the cellophane and now a contractor is going to try to sell us to replace all the houses that were not damaged to get new roofs.

What ever happened to 20 or 25 year shingles?

Why put the glue strips in the first place?

Reply:

Pat, the glue strips are there to allow the single taps of each upper course to bond to the lower course (with a bit of time and heat from the sun). This bonding in turn prevents wind-damage that otherwise lifts the shingle tabs and blows them off of the roof.

The people with the most at stake in this argument are the roofing manufacturers- we should follow their advice.

Leave the cellophane or paper release strip in place; it's not interfering with bonding, it's job is to prevent the shingles from sticking together while still in the bundle.

When the shingles are installed in offset courses up the roof the release strip stuck to the under-side of an individual roof shingle is no longer covering the wind-uplift-damage-prevention glue spots or strips that are exposed on the upper surface of the shingle in the course below.

This is of course a separate question from your last sentence.

Question: reader finds experts confirm: leave the release strips in place but still disagrees

(June 20, 2014) Mike O said:

I called the Roofers Union and they backed up the contractor and said leave the cellophane on.
It will disinigrate ( like his brain )

The dumbest statement that I ever heard was next:
The cellophane is for shipping. What a .... So what he just said to me is that the tar was
placed on the shingle TO HOLD THE CELLOPHANE IN PLACE!!!!!!

That's called "Back up the ... roofer"
THE REAL STORY IS THE TAR was put on the shingle to give it added strength and the cellophane was placed on the tar to prevent them from sticking to each other.

STICKING key word The tar strip is there to give STICKING POWER TO THE SHINGLE and stop them from lifting so rain can get in under them!

I have had my roof since 1999 and only 5 shingles blew off and they were the 5 shingles that still
had the cellophane on them.

Reply:

Mike, we have researched this question with great care to find and cite authoritative sources and to put the arm waving speculation. The article above gives correct information. Please take another look and let me know if anything you see there is unclear.

1. The glue strips or spots on shingles are there to bond down the tabs of the next upper shingle course to protect against wind-uplift damage. The release strips, once the subsequent shingle course is nailed in place, are no longer atop the glue strips on the shingle in the lower course. We leave the release strips in place because
2. The cellophane or silicone-treated paper release strips on the shingle under-side are doing no harm
3. The cellophane or silicone-treated paper release strips on the shingle under-side are not in the way of the now-exposed glue strips found on the upper surface of the shingle course below.
4. There is risk of shingle damage if you pull these release strips off

Question: reader doesn't understand that staggered shingle courses eliminate release-strip worries

(June 21, 2014) Anonymous said:

Try this simple logic: The manufacturer wouldn't have put the goo on the shingle unless it was going to be used to stick to another shingle. Obviously the cellophane strip is to keep it from sticking to other shingles while in transit. The only unanswered question is: Does the cellophane dissolve swiftly after installed, presumably due to the heat of the sun? If yes,the goo would be allowed to serve its purpose - eventually.

How long or what minimum heat does it take to dissolve the cellophane? If the cellophane does not dissolve, the goo was put on for no reason whatsoever. If it does dissolve, removing the cellophane manually allows quicker sealing of the goo to the underlying shingle

In not taking the time to remove the cellophane on installation, the installer is gambling that a high wind won't occur before the tape dissolves.

I presume also that, if the cellophane is removed, it opens up a lot of opportunities to touch down the shingle a bit crooked, probably without the ability to lift it back up and straighten it.

That is another cost factor - lost time and damaged shingles.

Reply:

Simple but mistaken logic. Please read the article above.

You'll see that at installation the self-adhesive tar strips and the cellophane strips remain nowhere near one another once the shingles are installed - see the arrows on our illustration, and also that forced tearing off of the cellophane is not recommended by the manufacturer, in part because doing so can cause shingle damage.

Question: reader questions why there is sticky stuff on the underside of the shingle

(July 30, 2014) pete ianuzzi said:

so why is there sticky stuff on the bottom, just to hold the cellophane tape in place?? and did mfr.'s original require you to remove this seal. I seem to remember reading that in the small print many years ago...40+years ago

Reply:

of course not Pete

The functional sticky stuff is the sealant that is present on the upper surface of the shingle in the course below. That sealant is heated by the sun, sealing the next upper course shingle tabs down on to the lower course of shingles.

A small amount of adhesive between the release strip (cellophane or silicone impregnated paper strips) holds the release strip in place bonded out of the way to the underside of the next upper course of shingles. It's not in the way and should be left in place.

Question: reader doesn't understand glue strips, shingle course offset, and does not agree with instructions from the shingle manufacturer

(Aug 8, 2014) Anonymous said:

I just read an article at Inspectapedia.com/roof/shingle....Anonymous below is correct!!!!! Although they go on to
say the bottom line is "NO" you do not need to remove it...

There IS a "YES" argument....The YES argument makes more sense
then Dan

The YES indicates that in high wind areas or areas subject to High WInds and Heavy rains, or if the roof was laid in cooler weather, the cellophane probably will not disintegrate immediately thus allowing dirt or particles to get under the shingle which MAY NEVER SEAL PROPERLY.

IN ADDITION TO REMOVING THE CELLOPHANE, IT IS NOT A BAD IDEA TO APPLY EXTRA SEALANT!

ROOFERS don't want to remove it because of 2 reasons....it takes too long AND if your working like a mad man
and just throwing them down, there is a chance that a misalignment would have to be redone and a shingle wasted.

ITS ALL ABOUT THE $

Reply:

Anonymous

The asphalt shingle manufacturers have an enrmous stake in the successful and durable installation of their product. We should follow their advice about proper installation, including leaving the cellophane strips in place. There is no advantage to removing them and doing so often damages the shingle. The strips on the back of each shingle are NOT in the way of the glue-down between shingle courses as the glue spots are exposed on the shingle course below by the offset between courses.

One simply cannot imagine any economic benefit to roofing shingle manufacturers that would accrue from your argument.

See

• FEMA Asphalt Shingle Roofing for High Wind Regions, Home Builders' Guide to Coastal Construction [PDF] FEMA 499, August 2005, Technical Fact Sheet No. 20, [To recommend practices for installing asphalt roof shingles that will enhance wind resistance in high-wind, coastal regions.]

But you are part of a considerable group of folks who have trouble picturing where the release strip ends up and where the actual glue strips or spots end up as shingles are placed on the roof. Check out the photo with arrows in the article above and you'll see why leaving the release strip alone is harmless and is recommended.

I should add that in a few instances we have actually seen shingles damaged by the pulling off of the cellophane strip.

Bottom line: remember that the manufacturers have a lot at stake in the successful installation and life of their product. While there may be some arguable compromises on product quality, life, warranty and other worries, following the roof shingle manufacturer's own instructions on how their product should be installed is the smartest approach to roofing.

It is unfortunate that so many people are confused about the cellophane strips and roof shingle tab sealant, particularly as the manufacturers and other experts have written so clearly on the matter. What we have published on this matter is hardly personal opinion. It's researched and cites authorities on the topic.

You are mistaken in your "all about money" claim in this case - the manufacturers don't make any more money with or without cellophane strip removal, but they do know what leads to product success or product failure - which is of great import, and which is why shingle tab sealant is provided in the first place - to protect against wind uplift.

It would appear that your confusion and that of some other readers stems from failure to notice that when shingles are taken out of a bundle (in which the cellophane on an upper shingle's underside prevents it from adhering to the adhesive tabs on the upper surface of a shingle below), and then placed onto the roof in successive courses, the underside of the upper shingle is a good 4-6 inches higher up-roof (depending on the shingle exposure) than the tab adhesive spots of the shingle below.

Thus the cellophane, left in place as the shingles are installed, is now here near the sealant tabs so it can not interfere with shingle adhesion.

Take a look at the annotated photograph just above in this article and you can see that shingle layout.

On 2018-11-03 by (mod) - Lowes is repairing the roof after they inspected the work.

Excellent going, Gary and thank you for reporting back to us. Your experience will help other readers.

It would also be helpful to know the country and city where your home is located.

On 2018-11-03 by Gary

Lowes is repairing the roof after they inspected the work. It is nice to have a company stand behind the owner. Glad I used a respectable company to back me up with a satisfaction guarantee. YEA

On 2018-10-28 by (mod) - sagging roof rows

Gary

It would be helpful to see some before and after photos of the roof - you can attach one per comment using the Add Image button.

A 2 1/2" dip in shingle installation sounds to me like rather poor workmanship.

If the shingle nailing is improper - which might also accompany poor workmanship - then the shingles would not have been installed in keeping with the manufacturer's instructions, voiding the shingle warranty and possibly giving a reduced roof life.

So you might want a closer inspection to distinguish between a cosmetic issue and a more substantive one.

Also, in the INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES found at the end of this article you'll find an article on resolving roofing contractor disputes.

On 2018-10-28 by Gary

I just paid Lowes to install a roof and I was concerned about the sagging roof rows. I took a picture of the old roof just before the new roof was installed and all of the rows were straight along with the roof caps.

My new roof has GAF 30 year asphalt 3 tab shingles and one side of the roof size is about 24ft X18ft If I stretch a chalk line on the rows from edge of the roof to the far edge of the roofing tiles. Some rows sag from 1/2" in the middle up to 2 1/2"

The lines of tiles on roof caps vary a gap up to 3 1/2 difference on the exposure of the tiles is this normal for a new installation? The roof looks bad like this. Can I complain and ask for them to be fixed?
Thank you
Gary

On 2017-09-18 by (mod) - distance to plumbing vent from roof ridge or valley

Brax

Thanks for an interesting question. I have not found a code rule on distance from a ridge or valley, but there are both some practical limits imposed by the physical dimensions of framing (don't cut through the ridge board, avoid the ridge vent, keep room for the flashing boot) and also a common sense limit imposed around valleys: cutting right through a valley to route a plumbing vent would be, frankly, stupid, as it invites a lifetime of troublesome roof leaks in a notorious area.

Here are some dimensions that are my opinion based on having built and inspected and torn apart buildings:

The vent stack needs to be far enough away from a valley in horizontal distance that the closest-edge of the integral flashing that forms the boot used to flash the roof around the vent pipe (avoiding leaks) does not enter over or under the closest edge of the valley flashing.

With 16" o.c. rafter spacing, and a typical valley flashing and underlayment that currently, popularly installs 36" wide peel-and-stick ice and water shield under the valley regardless of roof pitch, and a typical roof vent pipe flashing boot dimension (11 x 15" Oatey example)

and taking 1/2 of each of these widths, then the center of the hole cut for a plumbing vent is likely to be no less than (36"/2 + 11"/2) about 24" away from the center of the closest roof valley measured by drawing a horizontal line between those two points. In my opinion a horizontal distance of =>36" is safer and probably makes it easier to avoid roof framing.

The minimum horizontal distance from vent to valley respected by most plumbers and roofers is 18" but I think that's too small if we want to be sure there is no overlap between the valley flashing and the plumbing vent boot flashing. That's how I got to 24"

The absolute worst installation places the vent stack actually intruding into the metal of a valley flashing - a sin regardless of whether it's an open or closed style roof valley.

ROOF FLASHING, ASPHALT SHINGLE VALLEYS https://inspectapedia.com/BestPractices/Roof_Valley_Flashing.php describes valley flashing

FLASHING on BUILDINGS https://inspectapedia.com/exterior/Flashing.php shows an example or two

On 2017-09-18 by brax

Is there a minimum distance for roof plumbing vents in placing near/in/on ridge & valleys? I have seen both placements in a valley and near a ridge but cannot find any hard rules.

On 2017-07-26 by (mod) - boards missed during roofing nailing

Valerie:

I'm not sure what you mean by boards were missed. The nailing schedule requires a specific number of nails per shingle, varying by shingle type; the nails must be driven into sound roof sheathing. Indeed if there is a roof shingle warranty claim

AND if the manufacturer sends an inspector to your home

AND if the inspector is looking out for his/her employer, s/he will perhaps void the warranty if s/he is able to see any roofing practice that violates the manufacturer's instructions.

You can send photos using the page bottom or top CONTACT link.

On 2017-07-26 by Valerie

During the roofing process, several boards were missed while nailing and also, several boards were broken when being nailed into. Is leaving this okay? Is it considered Standard Roofing Practice? Or will this void my warranty?
I can send photos if it helps. Thank you!

On 2017-01-24 by Emilio

To understand and comply with the requirements for a composite sloped asphalt shingle roof in terms of roof material values or U factors in relation with title 24 energy requirements? where can I find this information?.

On 2015-11-17 by (mod) - seal nails improperly placed under shingle tabs

Jack:

Try lifting up the shingle tab carefully so as not to break it; put a dab of roof cement on the top of each exposed nail - enough to seal it but not so much that it oozes out and makes your roof look like you or I were the ones working on it. That ought to be sufficient.

When looking for a leak point, look at all of the roof area that is above the point where inside in the attic you first see water. Concentrate your sealing efforts there.

On 2015-11-16 by Jack

Hi. My north Florida home has a 10+ year old three-tab shingle roof and one mystery leak.

Two roofers have been unable to find a specific spot for leak. One roofer showed pictures of the nails being too close to the seam. Both recommend manually sealing that section with wet-or-dry roofing cement (nails & seams only) .

For financial reasons, I will being doing the sealing myself. Here are my questions:
1. Should I also seal the corners of each shingle (per Figure 2-7) or only seal the nails & seams?

2. Is there any value in manually sealing the shingles on the entire roof? Will this extend my roof life or just be a waste of time & effort? I have more time than money right now. lol

Please advise.
Regards, Jack

On 2015-09-30 by Anonymous

Rubber roofing base 1or 2sheets then asphalt shingles acceptably

Question: shingles are blowing off the roof - self sealing strips not set

(Nov 28, 2012) Stan Hackett said:

When is it acceptable, if ever, to install new shingles on top of old shigles without removing them?

(Apr 27, 2014) dale carpenter said:

a part time contractor installed 100 square of GAF, best 40 year shingle over new 1/2 cdx ext plywood on our barn 5 months ago, he removed only the bottom plastic strip on the shingle, not the middle one or the top one, six times now, since installation the shingles are blowing off from high winds 50-60 mph, he says they need the summer heat to seat, he never applied additional tar, cement and or any other adhesive to secure them for our location,my install warranty is up by time summer comes around, please help,what do I do ? Dale

Reply:

Dale,

5 Months ago means you were installing roof shingles in December. You don't say where you are, but indeed in cold winter weather the self adhesive tabs may wait until warm weather to heat up enough in sunlight to seal.

It is not necessary, nor recommnded by the manufacturer to remove the "plastic strip" if you refer to the strip that keeps shingles from sticking together while in the bundle. When on the roof the plastic strip is not in the way of the bonding process.

See inspectapedia.com/roof/Shingle_Cellophane.php for details.

Nevertheless, if shingles have blown off, unless your roofer's workmanship warranty excludes all wind damage, it's reasonable to ask that the roof be repaired.

I don't like roofing in very cold weather because of problems like this one. I think if I were the roofer (and also if I were an English major who was good communicator) I'd warn my client that if s/he wanted me to do so I'd install the shingles in cold weather but have to warn that they won't seal readily and unless we do something extra - beyond the standard installation process and thus maybe at more labor cost - there is risk of wind damage.

It'd be a hell of a lot of additional work to add roof mastic under every single shingle tab on a roof as an extra step. And in cold weather I'm not sure even how well it'd work.

InspectAPedia is an independent publisher of building, environmental, and forensic inspection, diagnosis, and repair information provided free to the public - we have no business nor financial connection with any manufacturer or service provider discussed at our website.

We are dedicated to making our information as accurate, complete, useful, and unbiased as possible: we very much welcome critique, questions, or content suggestions for our web articles. Working together and exchanging information makes us better informed than any individual can be working alone.

Question: why are there glue strips or spots on asphalt shingles ?

(Apr 2, 2014) Pat said:

I have installed the shingles on my house and removed the cellophane and in the 20 years since then I have not lost one shingle. I moved to a senior housing development and the roofs here are 14 years old and low and behold we had a wind storm and shingles are all over the place along with the cellophane and now a contractor is going to try to sell us to replace all the houses that were not damaged to get new roofs. What ever happened to 20 or 25 year shingles?

Why put the glue strips in the first place?

Reply:

Pat, the glue strips are there to allow the single taps of each upper course to bond to the lower course (with a bit of time and heat from the sun). This bonding in turn prevents wind-damage that otherwise lifts the shingle tabs and blows them off of the roof.

The people with the most at stake in this argument are the roofing manufacturers- we should follow their advice.

Leave the cellophane or paper release strip in place; it's not interfering with bonding, it's job is to prevent the shingles from sticking together while still in the bundle. When the shingles are installed in offset courses up the roof the release strip stuck to the under-side of an individual roof shingle is no longer covering the wind-uplift-damage-prevention glue spots or strips that are exposed on the upper surface of the shingle in the course below.

This is of course a separate question from your last sentence.

Question: reader finds experts confirm: leave the release strips in place but still disagrees

(June 20, 2014) Mike O said:

I called the Roofers Union and they backed up the contractor and said leave the cellophane on.
It will disinigrate ( like his brain )
The dumbest statement that I ever heard was next:
The cellophane is for shipping. What a moron. So what he just said to me is that the tar was
placed on the shingle TO HOLD THE CELLOPHANE IN PLACE!!!!!!
That's called "Back up the ... roofer"
THE REAL STORY IS THE TAR was put on the shingle to give it added strength and the cellophane was placed on the tar to prevent them from sticking to each other. STICKING key word The tar strip
is there to give STICKING POWER TO THE SHINGLE and stop them from lifting so rain can get in under them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have had my roof since 1999 and only 5 shingles blew off and they were the 5 shingles that still
had the cellophane on them.

Reply:

Mike, we have researched this question with great care to find and cite authoritative sources and to put the arm waving speculation. The article above gives correct information. Please take another look and let me know if anything you see there is unclear.

1. The glue strips or spots on shingles are there to bond down the tabs of the next upper shingle course to protect against wind-uplift damage. The release strips, once the subsequent shingle course is nailed in place, are no longer atop the glue strips on the shingle in the lower course. We leave the release strips in place because
2. The cellophane or silicone-treated paper release strips on the shingle under-side are doing no harm
3. The cellophane or silicone-treated paper release strips on the shingle under-side are not in the way of the now-exposed glue strips found on the upper surface of the shingle course below.
4. There is risk of shingle damage if you pull these release strips off

Question: reader doesn't understand that staggered shingle courses eliminate release-strip worries

(June 21, 2014) Anonymous said:

Try this simple logic: The manufacturer wouldn't have put the goo on the shingle unless it was going to be used to stick to another shingle. Obviously the cellophane strip is to keep it from sticking to other shingles while in transit.

The only unanswered question is: Does the cellophane dissolve swiftly after installed, presumably due to the heat of the sun? If yes,the goo would be allowed to serve its purpose - eventually. How long or what minimum heat does it take to dissolve the cellophane?

If the cellophane does not dissolve, the goo was put on for no reason whatsoever. If it does dissolve, removing the cellophane manually allows quicker sealing of the goo to the underlying shingle. In not taking the time to remove the cellophane on installation, the installer is gambling that a high wind won't occur before the tape dissolves.

I presume also that, if the cellophane is removed, it opens up a lot of opportunities to touch down the shingle a bit crooked, probably without the ability to lift it back up and straighten it. That is another cost factor - lost time and damaged shingles.

Reply:

Simple but mistaken logic. Please read the article above. You'll see that at installation the self-adhesive tar strips and the cellophane strips remain nowhere near one another once the shingles are installed - see the arrows on our illustration, and also that forced tearing off of the cellophane is not recommended by the manufacturer, in part because doing so can cause shingle damage.

Question: reader questions why there is sticky stuff on the underside of the shingle

(July 30, 2014) pete ianuzzi said:

so why is there sticky stuff on the bottom, just to hold the cellophane tape in place?? and did mfr.'s original require you to remove this seal. I seem to remember reading that in the small print many years ago...40+years ago

Reply:

of course not Pete

The functional sticky stuff is the sealant that is present on the upper surface of the shingle in the course below. That sealant is heated by the sun, sealing the next upper course shingle tabs down on to the lower course of shingles.

A small amount of adhesive between the release strip (cellophane or silicone impregnated paper strips) holds the release strip in place bonded out of the way to the underside of the next upper course of shingles. It's not in the way and should be left in place.

Question: reader doesn't understand glue strips, shingle course offset, and does not agree with instructions from the shingle manufacturer

(Aug 8, 2014) Anonymous said:

I just read an article at Inspectapedia.com/roof/shingle....Anonymous below is correct!!!!! Although they go on to
say the bottom line is "NO" you do not need to remove it...There IS a "YES" argument....The YES argument makes more sense
then DanJoeFriedman.....The YES indicates that in high wind areas or areas subject to High WInds and Heavy rains, or if the roof was laid in cooler weather, the cellophane probably will not disintegrate immediately thus allowing dirt or

particles to get under the shingle which MAY NEVER SEAL PROPERLY. IN ADDITION TO REMOVING THE CELLOPHANE, IT IS NOT A BAD IDEA TO APPLY EXTRA SEALANT!

ROOFERS don't want to remove it because of 2 reasons....it takes too long AND if your working like a mad man
and just throwing them down, there is a chance that a misalignment would have to be redone and a shingle wasted.

ITS ALL ABOUT THE $

Reply:

Anonymous

One simply cannot imagine any economic benefit to roofing shingle manufacturers that would accrue from your argument.

But you are part of a considerable group of folks who have trouble picturing where the release strip ends up and where the actual glue strips or spots end up as shingles are placed on the roof. Check out the photo with arrows in the article above and you'll see why leaving the release strip alone is harmless and is recommended.

I should add that in a few instances we have actually seen shingles damaged by the pulling off of the cellophane strip.

Bottom line: remember that the manufacturers have a lot at stake in the successful installation and life of their product. While there may be some arguable compromises on product quality, life, warranty and other worries, following the roof shingle manufacturer's own instructions on how their product should be installed is the smartest approach to roofing.

It is unfortunate that so many people are confused about the cellophane strips and roof shingle tab sealant, particularly as the manufacturers and other experts have written so clearly on the matter. What we have published on this matter is hardly personal opinion. It's researched and cites authorities on the topic.

You are mistaken in your "all about money" claim in this case - the manufacturers don't make any more money with or without cellophane strip removal, but they do know what leads to product success or product failure - which is of great import, and which is why shingle tab sealant is provided in the first place - to protect against wind uplift.

It would appear that your confusion and that of some other readers stems from failure to notice that when shingles are taken out of a bundle (in which the cellophane on an upper shingle's underside prevents it from adhering to the adhesive tabs on the upper surface of a shingle below), and then placed onto the roof in successive courses, the underside of the upper shingle is a good 4-6 inches higher up-roof (depending on the shingle exposure) than the tab adhesive spots of the shingle below.

Thus the cellophane, left in place as the shingles are installed, is now here near the sealant tabs so it can not interfere with shingle adhesion.

Take a look at the annotated photograph just above in this article and you can see that shingle layout.

InspectAPedia is an independent publisher of building, environmental, and forensic inspection, diagnosis, and repair information provided free to the public - we have no business nor financial connection with any manufacturer or service provider discussed at our website.
We are dedicated to making our information as accurate, complete, useful, and unbiased as possible: we very much welcome critique, questions, or content suggestions for our web articles. Working together and exchanging information makes us better informed than any individual can be working alone.

 

...

Continue reading at ASPHALT SHINGLE CELLOPHANE STRIP REMOVAL or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see these

Asphalt Shingle Sealing Cellophane Strip Articles

• ASPHALT ROOF SHINGLES - home
  • ASPHALT SHINGLE CELLOPANE STRIP POSITION
  • ASPHALT SHINGLE CELLOPHANE STRIP REMOVAL
  • ASPHALT SHINGLE CELLOPHANE STRIP ENGINEERS' VIEW
  • ASPHALT SHINGLE STARTER STRIPS
  • CELLOPHANE STRIP ADHESIVE ADEQUACY in HIGH WIND AREAS
  • WIND DAMAGE to ROOFS 

Suggested citation for this web page

ASPHALT SHINGLE CELLOPHANE STRIP REMOVAL FAQs at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

Or see this

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to BUILDING ROOFING

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