Hot Tub, Spa, Whirlpool Bath Heater RepairHot tub & spa or whirlpool bath use, maintenance, troubleshooting & repair:
This article describes the operation, controls, & troubleshooting of heaters used in hot tubs, spas, whirlpool tubs & Jacuzzis.
In these articles we describe the use, operation, maintenance as well as common problems, troubleshooting, & repair suggestions for hot tubs, spas, and whirlpool baths. We discuss hot tub leaks, broken hot tub or spa jets, hot tub or spa water temperature & heater repair, hot tub or spa pump diagnosis & repair, hot tub or spa filter maintenance, cleaning & repair, noisy air pumps at hot tubs, noisy water pumps at the hot tub or spa, and other hot tub, spa or whirlpool bath diagnosis & repair topics.
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Here is a 20+ year old Heat Wave II electric heater for a spa or hot tub showing the main controls. Newer digital heater units will have similar features.
Below are two more key features of most hot tub or whirlpool tub heaters:
Watch out: do not keep pressing the reset-switch repeatedly. If the system keeps switching off, find and fix the problem. Otherwise the system maybe unsafe.
Watch out: GFCI (Ground fault circuit interrupter) protection should be provided on all hot tub, spa, and pool electrical circuits to reduce the chances of fatal electrical shock.
If your hot tub or spa heater is not heating at all check that it has electrical power, and check that its indicator light is on [Green arrow in our photo just below].
The Heat Wave II hot tub / spa heater shown above was produced by
Most spa heaters will include a thermal overload reset switch [Blue arrow in our photo above]. To protect the spa heater or hot tub heating elements from damage from overheating, this switch will turn OFF the heater if its internal temperatures become too high. A common cause of excessive temperatures in the spa heater and thus of its constant tripping of the thermal overload switch is inadequate water flow through the unit.
For the hot tub heater shown here, Heat Wave notes in the unit's instructions (you kept those, right?) these important points about water pressure and heater operation:
Watch out: in returning the hot tub to operation and to keep the heater working for the hot tub illustrated in this article we needed to run the pump at high speed. But before the pump would operate successfully at high speed we needed to take several steps:
Above: when we first turned on the spa pump this Hayward filter leaked like mad. The white deposits all over it indicated a history of leaks when the unit was last used. We removed the filter cap and found that it was cracked.
Above: required water level in the hot tub or spa: must be over the upper spa water intake port that in this installation is hidden behind the vertical plastic cover. Otherwise at high speed the spa pump will draw air, cavitate, and fail to pump properly. When cavitating or pumping air, the pump will also be as noisy as all get-out.
Below: a peek below the top cover of this whirlpool tub heater control shows us several key components:
At the time of our inspection (March 2016) this whirlpool tub would not heat satisfactorily, shutting its heater off by tripping the thermal overload switch at about 95°F.
Earlier we noted that inadequate water flow rate can trip the pressure switch causing the tub to fail to heat. The pressure switch is there to prevent burn-up of the heater element - a condition that would occur if the heater were switched on and the pump was not circulating water or if there was no water or not enough water in the tub.
On this whirlpool tub the temperature control and sensor are sold as a unit and the device has been replaced at least once before: below is an old temperature control and sensor found under the tub.
On this whirlpool tub heater unit we suspect that the temperature sensor or its relay is the problem.
While our repair service tech opined that the system is beyond economical repair, if we can swap in a new temperature sensor for $50. or less in parts (and free labor from the author) this repair might be worth trying.
As we learned with heating boiler aquastats (AQUASTAT TROUBLESHOOTING), something as simple as poor thermal contact between the temperature sensor bulb and the sides of the well into which it inserts can be enough to cause thermostatic controls to malfunction.
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Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.
I have a hot tub heated by a stainless steel heat exchanger.
On the tub side I have a 4 hp pump for the jets and a fractional hp pump for heat and filter. Either pump circulates thru heat exchanger and filter. Small pump only circulates on timer for filtering or Tstat for call for temp.
Call for temp also opens a zone valve with end switch that pulls a relay to fire the home heating system gas boiler and start the main heating system circulating pump. The zone valve for the tub is on the return side of the piping. I have had constant problems maintaining temp (always too hot) and am looking for recommendation for improvement.
Should I install another zone valve on the supply to the heat exchanger?
Should I be using domestic hot water heater instead of directly off boiler?
Is it possible the zone valve is stuck open and circulating hot water thru heat exchanger on call from any other zone? On 2018-04-26 by Don Hoolihan
by (mod) -
If your hot tub is too hot then I suspect that the controlling thermostat is improperly-set or is not the right model to provide the necessary temperature.
by Don
The thermostat is the first thing I checked. It is working properly. The stat pulls a relay which turns on the fractional hp pump and opens the zone valve at the boiler. Zone valve end switch makes and pulls another relay which turns on whole house circulating pump and fires the boiler.
The water from the boiler is less than 200 since that is what the limit is set to.
The 1" pex supply line to the heat exchanger is about 50' away from the zone valve, however the valve is on the return side and I would think there would not be any hot water to the heat exchanger if not calling for heat, however, the supply side at the heat exchanger is usually very hot.
Could it be the water temp is so hot and the rate of rise, temp, is faster acting than the thermostat? You said not the right model. I bought it thru a pool/jacuzzi supply house. I have tried two models to no avail.
by (mod) - thermostat seems to respond too slowly to temperature changes
I'd be surprised that the thermostat would not act "fast enough" it the thermostat is actually working at all and assuming it's properly located.
I'd also check that you're not circulating boiler water through the heat exchanger involuntarily, such as can happen if there is a defective zone valve or check valve that doesn't close when it should.
I tried to press the high limit reset button it wasn’t going in so I took the button off the red one put a small screwdriver in there it killed the light on there but it didn’t kill the power because I hooked A tester and it’s still getting power
but I looked in there in a little Control panel it looks like behind the button or below it a spring is broke thank You will you help me On 2020-02-29
by Russell
by (mod) -
Russell the reset button is a replaceable part - a switch - matched by the manufacturer of the specific control being repaired, but
Watch out: for shock hazards and other damage: I think I also see signs of water leaks and corrosion inside the assembly.by Russel
Where can I get the whole assembly?
By mod: from the manufacturer, from any local electrical or hot tub supplier and from some online vendors such as Grainger.com
My whirlpool jacuzzi bath model #DC25 Was leaking water under the rapid heater while filling tub. Once I turned pump on it stopped leaking . What causes this ? On 2018-12-11 by Lee
The water is coming up through the rivets on a electrical component on the inside heater itself . Only leaks while filling the tub once motor is on the leak stops .I know crazy ! On 2019-01-14
by Lee
by (mod) -
I don't know, Lee, perhaps a change in water pressure adjusted a gasket, or a vibration slightly changed a connection that was leaking. Or there was water siphoning out of a vent.
Watch out: I would be very nervous about water inside of an electrical component or motor - as there could be risk of fatal shock hazards. Leave the system OFF until it has been repaired.
We need to know what that component is and probably to replace it. My WILD GUESS is it may be a temperature or pressure sensor.
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Continue reading at SPA, HOT TUB, SWIMMING POOL INSPECTION & CODES, or if your spa or hot tub needs repair see SPA HOT TUB WHIRLPOOL REPAIRS or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.
Or see these
HOT TUB SPA WHIRLPOOL OPERATION & REPAIR
SPA / HOT TUB HEATER REPAIR at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.
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