Appliance gas pressure regulator questions & answers:

This article answers frequently-asked questions about gas pressure regulators commonly used on appliances, gas fired heaters, water heaters, and similar equipment.

This article series explains LP or Natural Gas Pressure Regulators used on building appliances such as gas fired furnaces, boilers, water heaters, and stoves: How to Inspect & Test LP or Natural Gas Valves Regulators, or Gas Controls at Appliances.

Q&A on Gas Appliance or Heater Regulator or Controls

These questions about gas pressure regulators were posted originally at GAS REGULATORS & APPLIANCE / HEATER CONTROLS. Be sure to review the explanations and troubleshooting advice given there.

Photo at left: a gas pressure regulator for a gas cook top or range. Page top photo: gas control & pressure regulator for a gas fueled furnace.

[Click to enlarge any image]

On 2019-04-11 by (mod) -

Michael

Please see your question re-posted and answered in detail now at GAS REGULATOR ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Gas_Regulator_Adjustment.php

On 2019-04-09 by m.allenhopperlawoffices

Hi. Just bought second-hand Jennair cooktop unit, realized too late it does not have regulator attached. Can I use the regulator from the unit I am replacing? Jennair no longer manufactures the cooktop (model # CCG556) nor the regulator (Y04100307).

Their service folks say they cannot suggest any replacement ("you should buy a new cooktop").

Jennair service manual indicates OEM regulator is set to 5" WC for natural gas, the one I have that was working fine with the cooktop unit I am replacing is stamped to indicate it is set t 4" WC for Natural gas. Safe? See photo.

Thanks!

-Michael
IMAGE LOST by older version of Comments code - now fixed. Please re-post the image if you can. Sorry. Mod.

On 2017-02-19 by (mod) - can I remove a big old gas regulator that's in the way?

I don't know, Mike as I don't know what regulators are installed where on your building. If the old regulator is dropping high gas pressure down to appliance-range pressures then you need it.

DO NOT try just unscrewing a regulator to remove it as - obviously - you could get blown up.

And delivering too-high gas pressure to the regulator for the appliance can also cause a fire or explosion. Search InspectApedia

for GAS REGULATORS & APPLIANCE / HEATER CONTROLS to read details.

An expert would follow the whole gas piping system from source through the building to find what equipment is installed, what's needed, and to be sure the installation is safe.

On 2017-02-19 by MikeJ

Can I get rid of 2nd pressure regulator? Connecting new oven/range. Old big pressure regulator sticking out of floor, new oven/range has its own regulator built in, so is the old one (original 1980's, the range I'm replacing is not original). If I leave it on, new oven has no cavity in back, won't be able to get oven flush to wall.

On 2016-12-24 by jeff

Oven wont ignight no gas to burner

On 2016-12-19 by Anonymous

hello, need some help ! took little blue cap off and blew air in it , think i might of wrecked it because now it leaks, can i glue the cap on, or is it shot?
Also what difference between blue and red caps?

On 2016-11-03 by Dan

Thanks . I understand most appliance gas control assembly (for heaters)incorporates a gas valve that is instructed to open to permit gas to flow into the appliance's burners when the thermostat calls for heat. Are these control valves normally before or after the appliance internal regulators?

On 2016-11-03 by (mod)

Dan,

Rinnai is of course the most authoritative source on their equipment, and I agree with their position in this matter.

Nobody is likely to take the chance of betting your safety and money on a promise about a gas fired heater based on a telephone call or e-text question. Search InspectApedia.com for OTHER PEOPLE's MONEY to understand what happens.

The risk is that a gas regulator or other gas carrying control or equipment is damaged and becomes unsafe. Fortunately the most-obvious damage, such as a ruptured diaphraghm in a gas regulator would show up quickly as a gas leak.

But there could be more subtle damage such as forcing a regulator or control out of calibration.

On 2016-11-03 by Dan

Recently a Rinnai gas wall furnace was installed in our home. The manual states the appliance must be isolated from the gas supply when testing the gas supply line. The propane tank provider open the shut off valve at the unit and perform a 50 psi pressure test of the gas supply line. Rinnai specifies that the line pressure should not exceed 1/2 psi.

Could his have caused any damaged to the unit? It seems to be operating correctly. I did call Rinnai Support, and they said it could have caused damaged; but did not give any specifics on possible damage.

On 2016-10-24 by (mod)

Did you try replacing the thermocouple?

Did you confirm that there is gas in the supply system? Is the gas valve on?

On 2016-10-23 by Anonymous

my propane space heater will not lite . something will not allow the gas to flow to the pilot

On 2016-08-30 by (mod)

Also, Russ please see this InspecApedia.com article on inspecting gas regulators

https://InspectAPedia.com/plumbing/Gas_Cylinder_Regulators.php

On 2016-08-30 by (mod)

Russ:

I'd give a call to the manufacturer of your specific appliance to ask that question. It's possible that some regualtors, particularly devices using a thin diaphragm to control pressure, could be damaged and unsafe.

Zafer, Naci, and Greg R. Luecke. "Stability of gas pressure regulators." Applied Mathematical Modelling 32, no. 1 (2008): 61-82.

Emerson gas regulators: http://www.documentation.emersonprocess.com/groups/public/documents/bulletins/d450144t012.pdf discusses inspecting the regulator for damage

AIHA: faulty gas regulator causes explosion: https://www.aiha.org/get-involved/VolunteerGroups/LabHSCommittee/Pages/Faulty-Gas-Cylinder-Regulator-Causes-Explosion.aspx

Beswick gas regulators: basic information http://www.beswick.com/sites/dev.beswick.com/files/Basics%20of%20Pressure%20Regulator.pdf

On 2016-08-30 by Russ

My natural gas company supplies 2psi pressure to the house. When replacing the flexible gas pipe in my house the plumber neglected to install the regulator dropping the house pressure to 1/4 psi. As a result the appliance regulators have been operating at 2 psi inlet pressure for two years.

Should I be concerned about damage to the appliance regulators? The problem has been corrected by the gas company changing their regulator. Furnace, water heater and cooktop seem to be operating okay.

On 2016-05-10 by (mod)

Don:

If the regulator was not properly adjusted the pressure could be too high - which could be dangerous.

Or the thermocouple that verifies that a flame is present could be defective. Ask your gas regulator installer to return to double-check the system pressure and the pilot light.

On 2016-05-09 by Don taylor

We recently had a new regulator put on the gas line from propane tank to house.

Now it seems that the pilot light of furnace,is burning to big and although it will stay litfor a while, it will always go out. Is the regulator allowing to much gas pressure?

On 2016-04-06 by (mod)

Allen,

There is an implied issue: the gas pressure affects the gas flow rate if all other system features (pipe diameter, length, elbows, orifices, valves) remain the same.

So if partly closing a gas valve corrects a burner problem, you are treating the symptom but not the root problem. Quite possibly the gas pressure regulator for the gas delivery system is not properly adjusted.

That would be an unsafe condition, and your heater as well as other gas appliances may not work properly.

If a gas burner flame is inadequate a result can be production and release of fatal carbon monoxide gas.

So, if the furnace gas burner is not working properly, that is if the noise is not normal, your system needs service and / or repair. Part of that repair should involve checking and confirming that the gas regulators are adjusted properly for your home.

On 2016-04-06 by Allen

Any issues with partially closing my lp shutoff valve near the furnace? It significantly reduces burner noise.

On 2016-03-18 by (mod)

Use the "Click to Show or Hide FAQs" link just above to see recently-posted questions, comments, replies

On 2016-03-18 by (mod)

Angela: for space and to permit detail I repeat your question and offer a detailed reply in the article above at "Gas Regulator Adjustment Procedure"

On 2016-03-18 by Angela

Light commercial application: After pulling the cap to a 2" gas regulator , what would cause the screw, retaining disc, and spring to pop out of a gas regulator from just touching the adjustment screw (not even beginning to adjust it)? Would this indicate improper or unsafe gas pressure?

Also is it standard practice to shut off the gas supply before opening up and adjusting a gas regulator? Or is it standard practice to adjust it without doing so?

Question: hooking up a natural gas powered electrical generator

May 1, 2015) melody rittenhouse said:

Hi I have a 6500 watt generator that I want to connect to a Natural gas line. I'm told I need a natural gas regulator but I am getting very confused re all the input I've received about which one will work. Below is the info re the generator. Can anyone tell me what regulator I need to buy....Please?

Engine: Powerland 16 HP tri fuel engine with a cast-iron cylinder sleeve.

Max Power: 16 HP/3600 rpm.

Engine type: OHV25 Tilt single cylinder forced air cooling 4 stroke.

Cast Iron Sleeve and Steel Bearings maximize engine life.

Special carburetor and secondary gas regulator allows the engine to operate on the most convenient fuel-gasoline, LP gas, or natural gas.

LPG inlet pressure: between 10-15 psi.
NG inlet pressure: mini. 0.25 PSI or 6" water column

LPG end fitting: 3/8" Flare/S.A.E
NG end fitting: 1/2" male NPT fitting with an optional 1/2 to 3/4" female NPT adapter

NG line size (recommended): 3/4"

Engine oil grade: 10W30

Start system: recoil/electric start (battery included).

Noise level: 70 dB @ 22 feet.

Reply:

Melody this is not work that you should be doing, and depending where you live you may be required to obtain a building permit, inspections, and to have this work performed by a licensed professional. The risk is blowing up the house and killing everyone or poisoning the occupants with carbon monoxide.

The specifications you listed showed "NG inlet pressure: mini. 0.25 PSI or 6" water column " - that's the natural gas pressure presumably at the inlet to the generator.

Question: gas burner won't ignite

(Dec 20, 2015) Anonymous said:
my natural gas f hotair pilot light and thermocouple stays on but when it calls for gas/heat, the unit wont fireup ? WHAT DO I DO ?

Reply:

If the pilot stays on but you don't find the main valve opening I suspect a problem at the gas valve. Your service tech may try replacing the valve.

Question: gas regulator turns from green to yellow

(Dec 28, 2015) Beverly said:
When regulator turns green then yellow what does that mean?

Reply:

Beverly

I am GUESSING you refer to a warning light on a gas control - but I don't know: color codes are product and model dependent. It sounds like an unsafe condition for which you'd either find a relaxing answer in the installation and operation manual for your heater or appliance, or you'd shut it off immnediately and call for repair.

Question: DIY gas regulator adjustment on a deserted Caribbean Island

(Jan 16, 2016) Mark said:
We live on basically a deserted Caribbean Island and have to figure out how to do everything ourselves unfortunately. I have propane tanks with ~125psi and no regulators. I purchased a Fisher R622H which I installed at the tank and which reduces the pressure to "10psig / 0.69 bar." I was also going to install a Maxitrol 325-3L just inside the house where the propane lines come in.

This regulator states CSA rated inlet pressure 2 psi and the pressure range is 7-11" WC.

My gas stove stated it needed a minimum pressure 11" WC and maximum 13" WC to the inlet pressure to the regulator (on the Range). It also stated "you must use the gas pressure regulator supplied with this range." After hooking everything up the stove burners work fine, but the oven does not light.

I did not install the Maxitrol, which might be my mistake. My first question is will the Maxitrol work downstream of the Fisher valve and installing one of these just inside the house will control the house appliance pressures needed? My second question has to do with the range.

Do I go ahead and add the Maxitrol and see if the oven works? I am concerned we may have screwed up the Range regulator by not having this installed?

Reply:

Mark, if I've got this right, 10 psi is about 277 inches of water column, do yes you need both stages of pressure regulation.

Your Maxitrol wants just 2 psi inlet pressure.

Separately, unless your range uses 2 regulators, if burners work correctly and oven goes not, I suspect the lighting problem is a different issue. It may require more time foe an oven burner manifold to fill with gas.

You understand risks of fire and explosion, right?

At our oven I keep an igniter flame at the pilot or burner constantly while igniting it to minimize the risk of setting off an accumulated cloud if LP gas.

Question: gas regulator located in the attic - vent faces down?

(Mar 11, 2016) Brian said:
Natural gas regulator in an attic in NC with a very small vent should still be facing down to allow condensation out- correct?
Thanks

Reply:

Brian:

This is a trick question, right? What's a gas regulator doing in the attic?

Typical gas regulator instructions require that the regulator be installed upright and horizontal - that will leave a vent facing down BUT venting INSIDE the building may be unsafe and illegal, risking a fire or explosion. Check with a licensed plumber or your building department.

Question: using plastic gas piping

2016/03/13 Mrots said:
Hello, I have a 45000 btu ,l.p. Garage heater . It is running on 200 feet of 1/2 inch plastic gas line, then to a regulator , and 1/2 inch pipe from there.

My question , is the piping sufficient for capacity ? Do I need a bigger regulator ? The heater keeps going out , then relighting.

Reply:

Mrots

Plastic gas piping has been in use since about 1997; Fire Engineering (and others) have recently published articles discussing the use of plastic gas piping and its safety; you might want to research and read some of that;

Havel, Greg, "Construction Concerns: Plastic Gas Pipes", Fire Engineering, 12/092007 (available as a PDF] www.fireengineering.com/articles/2007/12/construction-concerns-plastic-gas-pipes.html

I'm doubtful about your gas piping diameter and adequacy and suggest consulting with your local gas supplier or a plumber experienced and expert in gas piping. Your system might simply need to be run at a higher stage 1 regulator pressure. Sorry I can't give specfic design suggestions for your heater as it's beyond what's safe from a mere e-text.

Certainly if the flame is going out the system may be unsafe, risking fatal carbon monoxide production. Be SURE that you have properly-installed, working CO detectors.

Gas regulator capacity, sizing, adjustment, can be found in more detail at GAS REGULATOR ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE and in manufacturer's documents linked-to in that article. CHeck with the manufacturer of your regulator.

On 2013-01-31 by Anonymous - gas regulator springs weaken and gas pressure falls?

this article states: "Some technicians have informed us that as the gas valve regulator on some gas furnaces or boilers age over several years, the spring inside the regulator (and determining the regulator output pressure) can weaken. A weakened spring inside of a gas regulator can allow the gas pressure to increase beyond the BTU rating of the heat exchanger."

I've seen inside gas regulators. The upper spring pushes the diaphram down which pushes the internal valve open and tends to increase the pressure [the stronger the spring pushes down].

So, if the upper adjustable spring weakens it would tend to let the pressure raise the diaphram and close the internal valve... lowering the outlet gas pressure.

A weak spring tends to *lower* gas pressure. Backing the top adjustment screw out also decompresses the spring [weakens spring effect] and lowers gas pressure.

On 2013-01-08 by Smithy

Having a prob with a venerable American Standard Sunbeam J3 furnace.
The replacement valve I put in (about 5 years ago) a White-Rodgers 36C03-433 no longer lets the gas through.

The pilot is lit (and stays that way), and I just tried another thermostat. Got 24VAC at the transformer, and between the TH and TH-TR connections Any thoughts? new gas valve? thermocouple? could it have something to do with the fan limiter?

On 2012-10-28 by joe stevens

i changed my thermocoupler and lit the piolit. turned up my thermostate and waited for ten to fifteen min. my furnace wont lite up. whats wrong?

On 2012-10-26 by trent

with the gas on shouldnt ther be gas preassure at the gas tap ?

On 2012-11-10 by Anonymous

Joe , did you turn the gas on after you lit the pilot ? You turn the knob to pilot , light pilot , then turn knob to On

On 2012-11-08 by Anonymous - Should a regular home inspection be able to detect a faulty regulator?

Kate,

Forgive us but.... no, well yes, maybe in some cases.

Unless special circumstances prevent, the inspector is expected to operate normal homeowner controls to run the heater.

If that was done, and IF there was visual access to watch and see the gas flame at and during ignition, and IF the particular defect was present at that time, and if the particular defect is one producing a visible or audible abnormal operation then ... yes s/he should have reported it. In sum, maybe.... it depends

On 2012-10-25 by Kate

Should a regular home inspection be able to detect a faulty regulator? Is a faulty regulator something that is easily detectable to the trained/thorough eye?

On 2012-04-22 by olefin

Our natural gas furnace was suppose to be converted to propane. But now when the furnace control valve opens it makes a loud chattering noise for about a minute then sounds ok. Thew flame also flickers.

I complained to the Heat&Air service man, he installed "another new valve" but it makes the same noise and falme flicker when the furnace first comes on. He said he didn't know anything else to try. After he left I noticed the sticker on the control valve. It reads, ADJ 3 to 5.

Question, is this the right control valve for propane? I was thinking the pressure would be higher for propane, if so this valve is not for propane.

On 2012-01-23 by I have a Lennox home furnace 196

Furnace runs but short time periods. Usually from one to three to 4 hours. Pilot goes out. has to be relighted and thermostat has to be turned high for it to start up. What is up with that???

On 2012-01-14 by Tim

I have this coleman heater & a gas stove. I have my own 30 gallon propane tank with a fisher 912 gas regulator that is wide open.

When I turn on my Coleman DGAH056BBSA gas furnace on, it lights up. I see the flame but its mostly yellow but no heat when the blower comes on.

Then I will turn on my gas stove & will not light while my gas furnace is on. I turn off my gas furnace off & my gas stove will work. Do I need a bigger propane tank & another adjustable regulator? I don't think that the pressure regulator I have is working right or has enough pressure to run both appliances.

On 2012-01-02 by Cody

My gas furnace won't cycle or turn the blower on for heat. Could it be the regulator?

On 2011-11-27 by (mod) -

Joe, in GENERAL, the high limit on a boiler will be set to 200 F or less. Setting to temperatures above that level risk dumping the pressure/temperature relief valve.

On 2011-11-23 by Joe R.

Thanks Dan, The boiler is fueled by natural gas. I did have the utility co. come out and test their delivered pressure. He witnessed my manifold gage reading while the boiler was firing. He assured me the line pressure upstream of the gas valve was quite adequate. This is a Burnham boiler, model no. P206AWNV, serial no. 17234540.

I am also uncertain of the maximum or recommended high temperature limit switch setting. It is not stamped on the boiler data plate nor is it mentioned in the operating manual.

I contacted Burnham recently concerning this, but couldn't get past the switchboard operator. She claimed they had no information about this boiler because of its age. I'm not sure I buy that.

On 2011-11-23 by (mod) -

Is this LP or natural gas Joe? If LP and your location is in very cold weather you may be seeing lower pressure and flow rate from the tank, or a partly iced gas regulator outdoors. I'd ask your gas company to come out and make their own measurements to compare with yours, and to check the regulator.

I'm not sure just how dangerous is a .5" under-pressure condition, and will do some further research.

Or you can give me the name of the boiler manufacturer and the model and serial number (and tell me if it's LP or NG) and we can ask the manufacturer about the allowable pressure variation and about what safety concerns may arise such as an inadequately heated flue, improper combustion (that can be dangerous) etc.

On 2011-11-21 by Joe R.

The gas pressure at the burner manifold on my 20-year old boiler reads 3" WC. I've tried to adjust it (at the gas valve) to achieve the 3.5" WC requirement, according to boiler spec. I'm unable to get any response (plus or minus) when I turn the pressure adjusting screw. Shall I assume I have a faulty gas valve? What negative issues are there if I continue to operate the appliance in this condition? Thanks to all for the valuable information found on this web site.

On 2011-08-26 by (mod) -

Anon,

in addition to summarizing typical residential and service line LP gas, propane gas, and natural gas pressures in the article above, I've added an article with details on pressures for natural gas, LP gas, or propane gas, see

LP & Natural Gas Pressures in the ARTICLE INDEX

On 2011-08-22 by Anonymous

What is recommended appliance operating pressure. Natural gas and propane ?

...

Continue reading  at GAS REGULATORS & APPLIANCE / HEATER CONTROLS or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see GAS REGULATORS for APPLIANCES FAQs-2 - more-recent questions & answers about appliance or heater gas regulators posted originally on this page.

Or see these

Recommended Articles

• GAS PRESSURES LP vs NATURAL GAS
• GAS REGULATOR ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
• GAS REGULATOR CONVERSION NG-LP
• GAS REGULATORS & APPLIANCE / HEATER CONTROLS
• GAS REGULATORS for LP TANKS
• GAS REGULATOR NOISES
• GAS REGULATOR TEST PROCEDURES
• GAS REGULATORS, TWO STAGE

Suggested citation for this web page

GAS REGULATORS for APPLIANCES FAQs at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

Or see this

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to GAS APPLIANCES, PIPING, CONTROLS

Or use the SEARCH BOX found below to Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia

Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia

Questions & answers or comments about inspecting, diagnosing, repairing, or replacing LP gas regulators and Natural Gas regulators found on heating appliances

Try the search box just below, or if you prefer, post a question or comment in the Comments box below and we will respond promptly.

Note: appearance of your Comment below may be delayed: if your comment contains an image, photograph, web link, or text that looks to the software as if it might be a web link, your posting will appear after it has been approved by a moderator. Apologies for the delay.

Only one image can be added per comment but you can post as many comments, and therefore images, as you like.
You will not receive a notification when a response to your question has been posted.
Please bookmark this page to make it easy for you to check back for our response.
Our Comment Box is provided by Countable Web Productions countable.ca

Citations & References

In addition to any citations in the article above, a full list is available on request.

---

ADVERTISEMENT

---