Building plumbing system installation, inspection, troubleshooting & repair FAQs set #2.

These plumbing repair articles answer nearly all questions about diagnosing and repairing building plumbing systems, including water supply and drain piping, vent piping, gas and oil piping in buildings, plumbing fixtures, water heaters, water pumps, water pressure, water softeners, water testing, water treatment equipment, water wells, and septic systems.

We also explain oil tanks, water tanks as well as other building plumbing system inspection or defect topics.

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Plumbing System Diagnosis and Repair Guides

These questions & answers about building plumbing systems were posted originally at PLUMBING SYSTEM INSPECT DIAGNOSE REPAIR - please be sure to review that article, or see

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On 2018-09-24 by (mod) - codes regarding pressure balancing valves in the showers on mobile homes

Anon:

I am not aware of any building code pertaining to balancing pressure in showers on mobile homes or any other home.

But I may have mis-understood your question.

If you are asking about anti-scald valves, used to balance cold and hot water flow so as to keep temperature at the plumbing fixture below scalding burn levels, there are building codes in the U.S. and Canada at state and provincial level that specify the allowable temperatures.

See HOT WATER ANTI-SCALD REGULATIONS at https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Hot_Water_Temperature_Laws.php

On 2018-09-20 by Anonymous

What are the codes regarding pressure balancing valves in the showers on mobile homes

On 2018-08-22 by Anonymous

No private well or any well. Just a residential neighborhood with city water. Did not have the opportunity to try the partly closing the water valve at the street.

Will do so tomorrow without fail. We will close it lever to 45 degrees versus a full close of 90 degrees then we will open the yard hose bib and see if tit will clear. I am repeating so that if I misunderstood something you can correct.
Thanks, Sharon

On 2018-08-21 by (mod) -

If you are on a private well it's possible that a bladder and the pressure tank or diaphragm in a pressure control switch could be damaged

On 2018-08-21 by Anonymous

Okay. First thank you so very much for any help you might offer!

Yes I read the directions for the pressure washer not remembering quite how I did it. It says basically to 'purge the water from the machine, turn off the water source then hold the trigger down to empty the machine. So that is what I would have done.

I am now seeing your point, however I remember looking back and thinking, 'Dang the garden hose went flat!' Now it could be a coincidence that the incredibly loud rata-tat-tat started after that.

Earlier I said the bib doesn't make the noise when the sprinkler system is on but now I see that instead of the machine gun fire it just sort of screams. So perplexed. I am going to try the turning down the water at the street thing you mentioned.

We did try that but we closed it totally and turned on all the faucets everywhere but forgot a few. Didn't help. I'll get back tomorrow after trying the 'turn down' method.

On 2018-08-20 by (mod) -

Sorry to be a bit dense but I don't understand what happened.

How would you suction a hose flat? Perhaps running the pressure washer pump, connected to a garden hose for water supply, with the hose bibb (faucet) closed? I don't understand how that would affect the building piping.

A starting point for diagnosing system water hammer - that may have nothing to do with what you did - would be to partly-close the main water supply valve to the home, thus changing the flow rate in the piping; then open the same trouble faucet as before.

If the water hammer changes or is gone then the issue is the one we describe in our water hammer articles.

See https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Water_Hammer_Noise.php

WATER HAMMER NOISE DIAGNOSE & CURE

On 2018-08-20 by Sharon - machine gun sound at pressure washer

This is my situation. Months ago I was draining the pressure washer that I had attached to the garden hose. My husband told me to be careful not to suction the hose flat. I suctioned the hose flat! Now we have what seems to me to be air hammer versus water hammer. We have tried everything.

When you slowly turn on the faucet it's okay then starts banging like crazy, then it's okay past a point then does it again when closing.

(It's the machine gun sound) I found out this morning that if I turn on the adjacent sprinkler ( both off the same pipe) that it doesn't happens while the sprinkler is running.
Please help.

My husband will re-plumb the entire house to get to the bottom of it and I really think it's a simpler issue to fix. P.S. The house is about 75 years old and all the pipes underneath are strapped and look good.

On 2018-08-06 by (mod) -

If the stopper is itself wedged solidly and not too far down the pipe you might reach in with a threaded screw on the end of a rod or stick and pick it up.

Otherwise you could waste days fooling around but ultimately will have to cut the pipe and remove the blockage.

I would not suggest trying to push it further on as that may just make the repair more difficult later IF the stopper forms a partial blockage in a larger sewer line.

On 2018-08-06 16:40:51.119007 by Helena

How can i retrieve a stopper stuck in the vertical pipe.It is not attatched to anything and is stopping tub from draing

On 2018-06-04 by (mod) - fixing a recurrent sewage backup

You need a plumber to find and fix the drain problem which might be a blocked drain or damaged drain or even one that was improperly installed without proper slope or venting.

If a simple clearing of the blood drain doesn't fix the problem then you need a sewer line camera to inspect the drain carefully to see what the problem is.

On 2018-06-04 by Dominique

What can I do about this? I'm tired of coming home to feces overflowing in the breezeway!

On 2018-05-18 by (mod) -

Ok.

A zone valve opens in response to the thermostat.

At fully open position the zone valve end switch closes to turn on the circulator.

So if the indirect water heater's zone valve is turning on the circulator all of its controls are working correctly.

The firing of the burner itself, on U.S.-wired systems, is controlled separately by the boiler primary control aquastat's temperature sensor.

So the problem is there.

Perhaps a loose wire or a bad temperature sensor at the boiler.

I've baffled too, since reading your question, but am giving this more thought and doing some research.
...

On 2018-05-14 by Mike

We have gas hot water baseboard heat with an indirect fired water heater. Having intermittent problems with domestic hot water.

Occasionally when the tank calls for hot water the zone valve opens and the boiler tries to fire but fails. If you turn up the thermostat on either of the heat zones the boiler fires and hot water goes both to then tank and corresponding baseboard and we get hot water. No issues with the heat.

On 2018-03-21 by (mod) - plumbing noise at a specific fixture

If the noise is peculiar to a specific fixture it could still be a water hammer/whistle/scream/shriek/or similar sound that is related to the combination of water pressure and water velocity.

For example here in Mexico after we installed a pressure boosting pump, ONE bathroom sink cold water faucet, when opened part-way, causes water pipe noise. If we decrease OR increase the water flow rate by closing or opening the faucet the noise stops.

There could of course be something else going on in your piping system such as a sticking check valve or debris in the system.

Often we can remove a clogged and recalcitrant faucet strainer by grabbing it with slip-joint pliers. But beware that such a faucet may already be so corroded that it needs replacement.

On 2018-03-21 by Carol G.

Update: finally cleared screen using Gumout (whatever works).

Must have been a weight lifter that installed. Sound in pipes also sometimes sounds like something trying to turn or come on. Its not a clanging, hammering, whistling or everything else I've read online.

OK. Cleaned bthrm faucet screen more; unable to remove; dont have the brute strength, gave up, used wire brush, no improvement, I think I made it worse.

Still unidentifiable sound in pipes immed after turning either tub or sink water off. Closest descrip of sound is something like air sound, or something trying to shut off in pipes, or like sound you hear from a toilet right after tank refills; that shut off gasp sound.

Diagram of pipes behind wall is copper pipe comes in from outside to tub first, then toilet then sink. Again, an outside faucet is directly on outside wall, (whether that is applicable or not, but no problem with it). And thank you for your help.

On 2018-03-20 by (mod) -

Carol

If the problem were in the water line coming into the home, then ALL of the plumbing fixtures in the home would be affected. You said that the problem was just at one location.

On 2018-03-20 by Carol G.

Thx for your help. I believe its coming from water line that feeds into house.

Going to turn water off, then back on at street again, this time opening outside faucet as well, and see if anything changes. It's not a clogged strainer; already clnd it and faucet fairly new.

On 2018-03-19 by (mod) -

Carol

I too am stumped by your description. When water pressure is poor only at one fixture I suspect a closed or blocked valve or a clogged faucet strainer; less often, a defective faucet itself or a clog in piping close to the fixture.

On 2018-03-18 by Carol G.

Sudden low water pressure bathroom sink; whirring, flushing type sound in pipes right after turning all bathroom water off (tub also).

Main water had been off 3 days with faucets slightly open to release air when turning main valve back on after a leak was finally repaired. Cannot find any similar issue on the web. Any ideas??

On 2018-02-14 by (mod) -

Jude

If the "reset" you are using is on a pump control switch your water system may include a WATER PUMP PROTECTION SWITCH inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Pump_Protection_Switches.php

that prevents damage to the well pump when the well is out of water.

If the "switch" is a lever on the side of the pump pressure control switch such as the Square D pump control switch image I'll post below, that protection feature is described by the company as:

The low-pressure cut-off (auto-start-off) operates at approximately 10 psig below the cut-in and will turn off the pump.

On 2018-02-14 by judex

my automatic water pump has to be reset continuously

On 2018-01-25 by (mod) -

Martin

Your local plumbing inspector will tell you

if AIR ADMITTANCE VALVES AAVs - https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Air_Admittance_Studor_Vents.php

are permitted in your local jurisdiction.

On 2018-01-23 by Martin

I need to vent a single utility sink in detached shop. The roof is approximately 20 feet above the sink and I'm wondering if I can use one of those little ventless air Inlet things or vent out the side wall. The only option is to punch a hole in the nice new metal roof. I am in Washington State

On 2018-01-11 by Warren Jones

It is my understanding that HUD approves water heaters for installation in mobile homes.

This being the case, it would seem that they would know which water heater they have approved. However, HUD keeps telling me that they have no such list; therefore, I find myself here.

Do you know of where this information can be obtained? Failing that, do you know of any 50-gallon gas water heaters that have been approved for installation in mobile homes?

I am sure that there are many approved 40-gallon tanks, and I could probably get along with one of them, but I would really hate it if I installed one only to be told later, "If you had only..." That would sting.

On 2017-12-01 by Buck Butowski

Thanks for the explanation. I guess I'll go buy a hose. ☺ Thanks for the quick reply, too. Much appreciated!

On 2017-12-01 by (mod) -

Buck

It's incoming cold water that pushes hot water out, so closing cold intake won't let you drain a heater from a sink unless the sink faucet level is below the level of the bottom of the water heater.

On 2017-12-01 by Buck Butowski

I own a condo and don't own a hose, as suggested for draining a hot water tank. Can I just turn off/close the water intake after turning off the gas and drain the hot water heater via an open hot water faucet? I know it will take some time, but I really don't need a hose, so am looking for an alternative. I sure haven't been able to find anything about it. Thanks for any help.

On 2017-11-30 by Anonymous

Hi question 4 some 1. The black expansion tank on a boiler system does it have to be drained to make the hot water pressure work in the house. I have cold water pressure but no hot water pressure. Help quickly please and thank you

On 2017-11-25 by (mod) -

Pete,

We will always see the most scale forming at the hottest points in the hot water system. That will be in the tankless coil and on the hot side coming out of the coil. I think what I would do would be to replace the coil and start inspecting and replacing pipe till I was passed the badly clogged area.

You can continue to do an acid wash but that etches the inside of the copper and actually helps it to collect scale more quickly. The long-term solution is to install a water softener.

On 2017-11-21 by Pete

Hot water pressure. I live in the Northeast and have an oil fired boiler with a tankless coil. I periodically pump vinegar through the coil for a few hours to get rid of the sediment.

A couple years ago, the vinegar through the coil trick didnt work, so I cut into the copper pipe near the boiler. It was filled with sediment. I replaced the copper pipe (I like plumbing!). Now the hot water pressure is low again and the vinegar through the coil didnt work.

Looks like I am going to tear into the pipe and replace. Not a problem, my question is.. is it likely that the sediment filled pipe is near the boiler? I dont mind doing it, but I dont want to make cuts all over the place.

It would be helpful if the clog was near the boiler like it was last time.. Thanks in advance for your help.. Pete

On 2017-08-31 20:34:29.053412 by (mod) -

Yes, Chad, since any direct galvanized to copper pipe connection is going to invite corrosion.

See DIELECTRIC FITTING CODES https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Dielectric_Pipe_Fitting_Codes.php

On 2017-08-31 by Chad

Do I need a die electric union going from copper pipe to galvanized pipe on a water filter system?

On 2017-08-23 by (mod) -

Right, there may be no leak showing up below but there could be a leak around the seal that's directed under the toilet base and onto the floor surface.

But we may be looking in the wrong direction. I don't know what type of toilet nor toilet tank your system uses, but some tanks mount on a toilet base that has an open space reservoir between tank and bowl - could there be dripping between tank and bowl?

You might diagnose that by closing off the water supply, flushing the toilet and quickly scooping the remaining water through the flush valve opening. Then listen to see if there is no dripping - because there's no water left in the tank.

On 2017-08-17 4 by James

I have access to the area underneath the toilet and I'm not seeing any water, even dyed colored water around the pvc pipe area.

I even placed paper underneath the pipe in the cellar and their is no water that has dripping down the outside of the pipe on to the paper.

I've checked around the flange area each time I've unseated the bowl and I don't see any water or dye colored water outside of the seals in the flange area. No wetness or any kind. I've taken the bowl up several times and reseated with same results (whenever you add water, you hear gurgling and then water dripping for a while and then it stops.

The pipe has no blockages, unless its the two Fluid master seals inserted together is causing some sort of blockage/appendage scenario which lends to water dripping inside the pipe when water is added to the bowl. The water does drop straight down about 3-4 feet from the toilet area.

The toilet level is staying the same also. So the drip only occurs after water is added to the toilet and displaces water from the s trap inside the toilet.

Noter: I'm not seeing any dye about the bowl to indicate a crack either. I also waterproofed caulked between the metal flange and pvc pipe opening.

On 2017-08-17 by (mod) - dripping water noise

James

I'm worried too, about a leak that has not yet been identified. I figure if the leak is significant it will show up as a wet spot or stain on the ceiling below, but a smaller leak may not show up right away - you'd need to cut an inspection opening or use a borescope up through the ceiling below the toilet.

Dripping noise can also be water flowing out of the bowl and down through a partial blockage of the drain line by squashed toilet wax ring seal that has been smooshed over into the passage of the drain opening.

On 2017-08-17 by James

I have a hillside home in rural Texas, so its hard to get a plumber to come to my area.

Anyway here's some background info. I have 3 toilets all located on the 2nd floor. All three toilets are connected to metal flanges that drain into pvc pipe. The pvc pipes of two toilets drop about 3-4 feet into the cellar underneath the home into the main later sewer line.

The other toilet drainage pipe drops 1-2 feet.

I just replaced one toilet's (3-4 ft drop) that had a wax seal and was leaking underneath into the cellar with a Fluid Master waxless seal.

Prior plumber or owner did not situate the wax seal correctly. It came right off the bowl horn without needing any clean up!

The flange is recessed 5/8 inch below the tile floor so I had to use 2 Fluidmaster seals in combo with their spacer. I also had to buy extra long t bolts. I installed the 2 seals and spacer. The toilet is level and is not rocking or wobbling.

My problem is that when you add water to the bowl I start hearing water overflowing and then dripping sounds for at 30 seconds to 3 minutes depending on the amount of water I'm pouring into the bowl. Currently I only have the bowl attached.

I've already determined that the tank is not the problem. I've checked underneath the base of the toilet or underneath the floor where the toilet sits. There is no apparent water leakage. I put dye in the bowl when I added water and I'm not seeing any dye stains anywhere underneath the base of the toilet or cellar.

What could be the cause? I do know that when water is added to the bowl it will displace the water in the S trap inside the bowl to drop into the drainage pipe and thus the dripping.

It appears the toilet isn't leaking, but the dripping sounds I hear every time water is added to the bowl is causing me concern.

To add to my confusion, another 2nd floor toilet nearby makes a dripping sound when water is added, but I haven't changed seal on it yet, nor is it leaking underneath the base or underneath the floor. My third toilet on the other side the home on the 2nd floor with the shorter pvc drainage pipe is quiet as a mouse if water is added.

Any ideas what may be going on?

On 2017-06-21 0 by Tracie

The pump is running but no water is coming out

On 2017-06-20 by Anonymous

My house smells if sewer gas only when it rains.

On 2017-05-27 by Nikki

We just recently built our new home and the plumbing has never worked. We have a sistern because we are high up on a mountain and far away from town, but everything is new. Out kitchen has no water pressure at all, the bathroom when I turn the water to hot spurts air and water everywhere.

When u turn it to cold, the water slows and stops. The shower gets hot and cold water but the pressure isn't the best but better than any other. Toilet seems to flush ok.

Haven't used dishwasher or hooked up washer yet. Plumber was paid well and once contacted never called back.

He said to one of our friends that was trying to tell him it didn't work, that it is the pump, but it is brand new. It may be but it would be nice to have some answers or a call back since it hasn't worked since hooking it up. Any suggestions cause I think I'm on my own until I find a new plumber!

On 2017-04-21 by (mod) -

Anonymous:

I'd look for a damaged well casing combined with surface runoff draining into the well.

Watch out: if that's what's happened, the water is almost certainly not safe to drink.

On 2017-04-21 by (mod) -

Six

Search InspectApedia for POWER FLUSH TOILETS to see what I am guessing is the type of toilet you have: perhaps you simply need to reduce water pressure to the recommended range for the toilet type

On 2017-04-18 by Six

What can I do every time I flush the toilet feces come out of the Jets under the rim

On 2017-04-18 by Anonymous

My well has worked perfect for 30 years and now since the government has dug a new ditch for a sewer line I have a artisan well pouring 50 gals. a minute out of my well case. How would this have happened

On 2017-03-17 by (mod) -

Laurie, we give some details and sketches of plumbing vent arrangements and distances and diameters at

PLUMBING VENT DEFINITIONS, TYPES https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Plumbing_Vent_Definitions.php -found by searching Inspectapedia using the little search box just above, looking for "plumbing vent distances"

On 2017-03-17 by Laurie

If a bathroom has a shower, vanity/sink and toilet and the toilet is vented by a main stack 28" from the center of the toilet drain and a studor vent on the vanitywhich is 18" from the center of the toilet drain, does the shower need to be vented with a separate studor vent?

On 2017-02-15 by (mod) -

Usually if a toilet doesn't re-fill the problem is a stuck or clogged toilet fill valve. I'd first confirm that the water supply to the toilet is not clogged, then I'd replace the fill valve.

On 2017-02-15 by Linda

I have two toilets back to back in 2 separate bathrooms. Ever since I purchased the home, the water level in the toilet bowl drops and doesn't even try to refill.

I have to flush the toilet to get more water into the bowl. I had the toilets replaced several years ago and have the same problem. Any idea what would be causing this issue?

On 2017-01-17 00:13:33.777344 by (mod) -

Joy

I'm not sure what this is either. However sometimes a partially clogged Plumbing trap or Plumbing drain will continue to drain a small amount of water after you've stopped actually running the fixture. That might if it's falling down a vertical passage of drain pipe sound like a drip.

On 2017-01-16 by Joy

I live in a condo on the first floor (no units above). Hearing what sounds like a drip after flushing, showering or using the sink.

There is a panel that accesses the pipes and there is no visible signs of leakage there or by any of the fixtures. This drip sound only happens after the cycles are complete; not when the water is running. Can anyone help?

On 2017-01-09 by (mod) -

Barbara

I'm not sure, but it's possible that the water heater you describe includes a water flow rate controller that is not working properly.

On 2017-01-0 by (mod) -

Really posting from an older version of this article

AUTHOR:Barbara Wynne (no email)

COMMENT:A friend installed a 330 gas Bosch waterless heat tank. All is well except after changing out a pipe, debris was cleared from both hot water facets & were cleared but now the hot water in the shower pulsates. Can you tell me what the cause may be?

On 2016-12-26 by (mod) -

Sounds like someone needs to check the wiring and to check the heating elements to see if they're working. Running the heater for even a moment before it's completely purged of air can burn up the heater element.

On 2016-12-24 by Christine

We got a new water heater and still no hot water. Plumber replaced heating element and both thermostats. We receive lukewarm water but not hot. Set at 160degrees. It is an electric heater. Everything is showing it works.

Reader Comments:

(June 4, 2012) Sumii said:

Thank you for your information regarding faucet without water pressure. I didn't have to call professional. I fix it myself.

Reply:

Thank you for the nice note Sumil. We work hard to make information at InspectAPedia accurate and helpful so your feedback is very nice to receive. We also welcome questions if you find our articles unclear or missing something.

Question: sick sweet odors at plumbing fixtures

(Oct 13, 2011) Sally Slick said:

I moved into a rental house 3 months ago... I have noticed a sickly sweet odor that permeates the house...

that is, does not appear to come from a specific spot, but is more noticeable around the center of the house where the shower, toilet, sinks, washing machine and dish washer are. It is much stronger after I use a lot of water with showering, doing laundry etc.

My landlord (a management company) is being nice, but want me to cover the odor via various means rather than finding what the cause it. It seems to me that this is sewer gas.

The house was empty for quite a long time apparently before the owner bought it in a short sale. I would very much appreciate your thoughts on this. Thanks...

Reply:

Sally, a sickly sweet odor - can be too many things, I'm just not sure enough to guess based on odor description alone what the problem might be. But the fact that you observe the odor more strongly after using plumbing fixtures suggests there may be a drain or vent clog problem.

Because sewer gases are potentially dangerous I don't think that just covering up the odor is a reasonable approach.

I suggest trying to track the odor to its source by building location and time of day, plumbing fixture usage, etc.

Please see- ODORS GASES SMELLS, DIAGNOSIS & CURE - topic home, and the plumbing and sewer gas odors listed there.

...

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