A/C or Heat Pump Fan Condenser Unit Diagnosis & Repair:

This article discusses the diagnosis and repair of problems with the outdoor compressor / condenser fan and fan motor, including fans that wont' run, fans that run at slow speed, and fans that won't stop running. Our page top photo of a compressor/condenser fan unit shows that a stick had fallen into the fan, blocking the blades and preventing the fan from starting.

A simple problem like this can also burn out a fan motor. Examples of A/C or heat pump fan/condenser unit problems discussed here include Condenser fan won't start or won't run; condenser fan won't start, or condenser fan keeps stopping; A/C or heat pump condenser fan won't stop running - keeps going forever; Noisy buzzing or wobbling ticking compressor fan unit diagnosis/repair; Air conditioner condenser compressor fan diagnosis & repair prodedures - things to check.

What and Where is the A/C or Heat Pump Compressor/Condenser Unit Fan?

Article Series Contents

• FAN, COMPRESSOR / CONDENSER UNIT
  • HOW a FAN / CONDENSER UNIT WORKS to MOVE HEAT
  • DIAGNOSE & REPAIR COMPRESSOR CONDENSER FAN PROBLEMS
  • DIAGNOSTIC CHECKLIST, CONDENSER FAN
  • FAN REPLACEMENT WIRING, COMPRESSOR/CONDENSER

The condenser unit fan is a blower that moves outdoor air across the condensing coil found in the outdoor compressor/condenser unit. The movement of outdoor air across the condensing coil transfers heat to outdoor air and allows high pressure/high temperature refrigerant inside the condensing coil to condense from a gas back to a liquid refrigerant.

The condenser fan is visible inside of the outdoor compressor/condenser unit such as the unit shown in our sketch at left, an in our other photos on this page. Our central A.C. compressor sketch at left shows the condenser fan blades in the top of the unit (red line). The green line marks a common location for the fan control circuitry, and the blue line marks the fan motor.

Other compressor units such as those used

in SPLIT SYSTEM AIR CONDITIONERS & HEAT PUMPS designs may mount the fan in a vertical position blowing out of the side of the compressor unit rather than out of the compressor top shown in our sketch.

If the condenser fan is running you will see the fan blade spinning at speed (typically at 1725 rpm) and you will feel air blowing out of the unit.

Watch out: as we explain

at BURNED-OUT COMPRESSOR, if the condensing unit fan is not working the compressor itself may shut down or even be ruined by overpressure or over temperature.

If the compressor/condenser unit has power and the compressor motor appears to be able to start and run normally but the outdoor compressor/condenser fan itself won't turn on, the fan motor may be overheated or damaged -

see MOTOR OVERLOAD RESET SWITCH.

Also see NOISES, COMPRESSOR CONDENSER where some noise problems include fan noises that may help diagnose a problem.

How the Air Conditioning Compressor/Condenser Fan Unit Works to Move Heat from Indoors to Outside

The air conditioner or heat pump condensing coil (shown at left) receives high pressure refrigerant gas from the compressor and cools this refrigerant gas back to a liquid state. Sketch from Carson Dunlop Associates, a Toronto home inspection, education, & report writing tool company [ carsondunlop.com ].

Typically refrigerant leaves the compressor and enters the outdoor condensing coil at about 100 psi and about 95 degF. These pressures vary of course by type of refrigerant, ambient temperatures, compressor details, etc.

The Outdoor cooling fan (the subject of this article) moves outdoor air across the condensing coil to cool it and assist in condensing the high pressure, high temperature refrigerant gas back into a liquid.

It is this process which completes the transfer of heat through the refrigerant from indoor air to outdoor air as the compressor/condenser unit compresses and then cools the refrigerant back to a liquid.

All of the above-listed air conditioner or heat pump components are discussed in detail throughout this website using the links at the left of these pages.

List of Common Condenser Unit Fan Problems & Solutions

• DIAGNOSE & REPAIR COMPRESSOR CONDENSER FAN PROBLEMS
  • CONDENSER FAN WON'T START
  • CONDENSER FAN RUNS SLOWLY
  • CONDENSER FAN NOISES
  • CONDENSER FAN WOBBLES
  • CONDENSER FAN RUNS INTERMITTENTLY or SHORT CYCLES
  • CONDENSER FAN WON'T STOP
  • CONDENSER FAN RUNS BACKWARDS

Condenser fan won't start

Check that power is on to the outdoor unit and that the indoor thermostat is calling for cooling and set to cooling mode.

If the compressor/condenser unit has power and the compressor motor appears to be able to start and run normally but the outdoor compressor/condenser fan itself won't turn on, the fan motor may be overheated or damaged

See MOTOR OVERLOAD RESET SWITCH.

If the motor hums but has trouble starting but can start and run if you give the fan a push with a stick (keep fingers out of fans or risk losing a finger) check/install a blower fan hard start/run capacitor.

See CAPACITORS for HARD STARTING MOTORS

A condenser fan that won't start when power is turned on, but whose blades will spin easily when power is off may have a worn fan motor shaft bearing. You may detect this by noticing that you can wobble the fan motor shaft (when power is OFF) or you may notice that you can pull the shaft in and out of the motor (loose end-play).

Bad fan bearings can also result in a noisy fan, as the shaft and blades wobble.

Also see BLOWER FAN NO START / NO STOP

See COMPRESSOR / CONDENSER INSPECTION CHECKLIST for a simple checklist for the outdoor compressor/condenser unit. Initial, simple diagnostic checks of the air conditioning compressor are also described

at COMPRESSORE FAILURE DIAGNOSIS

If the condenser unit fan won't start at all, check for power to the unit and to the fan motor and that all of the controls are calling for cooling (or heat pump operation); check for loose, disconnected wires; Check for a frozen fan motor (motor won't turn manually when power is off).

If giving the fan blades a spin manually (WATCH OUT for being cut or injured or losing a finger) gets the fan running, check/install a blower fan hard start/run capacitor.

See CAPACITORS for HARD STARTING MOTORS.

Condenser fan runs only at unusually slow speed

Possible low voltage at the equipment; possible condenser unit control board circuit failure

See CONTROL CIRCUIT BOARD, A/C for details.

Also possibly there may be no power to the fan and fan blades are moving due to local breeze blowing through the unit. On occasion a "slow" outdoor fan may be due to a fan blade that is not secured to the fan motor shaft.

Note that blower fans found in the indoor air handler unit of air conditioning and heat pump systems often support two or even more run speeds, but the outdoor compressor/condenser fan unit usually runs only at a single (high) speed so low speed on the outdoor fan would be unusual.

A slow condenser fan (or air handler unit fan) could be caused by a bad start-run capacitor.

Unfortunately this condition could indicate a burned-out A/C or heat pump compressor motor. If the compressor won't start and if the unit trips a breaker or blows a fuse as soon as it tries to turn on, the motor is burned out and shorted.

If the compressor/condenser unit is wired with 240V (or "220 volts") as most are, an overcurrent at compressor start-up may be tripping just one leg of a two-pole breaker or one of a pair of fuses, leaving the other circuit "live". This can leave the fan motor running.

A bad fan motor can also cause the fan to turn but only abnormally slowly. An internal short that is grounding the fan motor windings can leave the fan running, but abnormally slowly.

Condenser fan noises: ticking, buzzing, humming

Check for a fan blade hitting an obstruction in the unit; possible failing blower fan motor.

See details at HVAC FAN NOISES

Or see our encyclopedic list of

FAN NOISES in BUILDINGS

Or see TICKING NOISE DIAGNOSIS

Condenser fan motor buzzes or hums

If the fan itself is balanced and undamaged and secured to the shaft and the fan motor buzzes or hums the motor may be damaged, overheated, have an internal bearing failure, or the motor may be hard starting.

HVAC fan noises are discussed further


at HVAC FAN NOISES where we also refer readers to still more detail about hard-starting motors

and at

ELECTRIC MOTOR NOISE DIAGNOSIS for figuring out what may be wrong with the fan motor

Check/install a blower fan hard start/run capacitor. See the Capacitors link just below

Condenser fan blades loose, wobbling, bent or loose

Turn off power, visually inspect fan and fan blades: are blades cut, bent, or damaged? Is the fan blade assembly secured to the fan motor shaft?

A bent condenser fan causes stress on the blower fan motor shaft and can destroy the motor. Minor bends can be corrected manually; damaged blades need to be replaced.

Condenser fan blades broken or come loose from the fan motor shaft

Turn off power and assure that the fan blade is secured to the fan motor shaft. If the fan spins on the motor shaft and the motor shaft won't turn the motor may be seized and need replacement

. If the fan motor is OK one or more allen screws set into the center bushing of the blower fan itself may need to be tightened to secure the blower fan to the motor shaft.

Condenser fan runs but only intermittently and has trouble starting

Check for loose wires or loose components on the fan unit control circuit board.

Short Cycling Condenser Fan or Condenser fan runs but keeps tripping its thermal overload switch and thus keeps shutting off

Typically this is caused by an internal short in the motor windings. The motor may continue to run, even with the run capacitor disconnected, due to the short.

Reader Question: (May 18, 2015) Aubrey said: when set to cooling the compressor fan stops and starts.

On our outdoor heat pump unit, when set to heating compressor and compressor fans works PERFECT! But when set to cooling the compressor fan stops and starts, it will not stay on when compressor is on. I can hear the coil from the tinny fan control circuit board turning the fan off and then back on during this problem.

Fan is brand new. Capacitor is brand new. Fan control circuit board is brand new. Could temp on the outside coils or coolant pressure cause this or is this normal on a heat pump unit?

Reply:

Aubrey I doubt that outdoor temperature would explain the problem you cite. More likely there is an electrical or control problem.

Reader follow-up:

(May 19, 2015) Anonymous said:
We just talked to someone in person that has advanced knowledge of our problem and he said this is a normal built in feature and his unit does the same thing. Just sharing this info for others.

" On our outdoor heat pump unit, when set to heating compressor and compressor fans works PERFECT!

But when set to cooling the compressor fan stops and starts, it will not stay on when compressor is on. I can hear the coil from the tinny fan control circuit board turning the fan off and then back on during this problem.

Fan is brand new. Capacitor is brand new. Fan control circuit board is brand new. Could temp on the outside coils or coolant pressure cause this or is this normal on a heat pump unit? "

Reply:

Anon:

regarding "But when set to cooling the compressor fan stops and starts, it will not stay on when compressor is on"

... it depends. Rapid fan on-off cycling certainly is likely to indicate an electrical or control problem worth investigating.

But it is indeed also normal for the fan on-off cycle to sometimes be different from the compressor motor on-off cycle. But it seems to me that that condition should not be for long. The compressor is depending on the fan to move air across the condensing coil to convert high pressure, high temperature gas back to a liquid refrigerant.

(May 20, 2015) Aubrey said:
Correct. The fan does not stay off for a "long" time. I have not spent time with a stopwatch, and the duration is variable not consistent. But when it turns off it will come back on 1-3 min later (best guess)

Reply:

Your service tech will perhaps look for a bad control board, relay, or wiring connection or sensor.

Condenser fan won't stop running

A blower fan may run for a brief while after the compressor motor has stopped but if the outdoor fan never stops check for a problem with the control board wiring or circuit. Also

see BLOWER FAN NO START NO STOP

Condenser fan motor runs backwards

Could be a bad start-run capacitor or a bad control board.

See CAPACITORS for HARD STARTING MOTORS

A detailed case of diagnosing and fixing a condenser fan that was running backwards at speed changes is discussed below at

the FAQ's on COMPRESSOR / CONDENSER FANS

A Summary Checklist of Diagnostics for a Condenser Fan Unit that Stops Working

We list this sequence of condenser fan troubleshooting checkpoints roughly in the order that an experienced service technician will try them, putting easy, cheap, or more likely causes higher in the list. Contact us if you have suggestions.

• Power & Amps: Check that the system has electric power and normal voltages.
  
  Check the voltages: typically the fan expects to see 120V - is it seeing low voltage?
  
  Tripping circuit breakers can be an immediate indicator of overamping or drawing excessive current.
  
  Watch out: not always. Some problem circuit breakers may fail to trip when they should. Watch out - that's a fire hazard.
• Mechanical stoppage or resistance: Check for a mechanical obstruction (see photo at page top of a stick in the condensing fan) or for a fan bearing that is worn, sticking, freezing.
  
  Check also for a wobbly fan blade (worn or loose fan motor shaft or bearing) or for a fan blade that wobbles and hits the protective screening or for a fan that is jammed by an external occurrence such as a stick falling into the equipment.
• Capacitor: Check for a bad start/run capacitor if the fan circuit uses one.
  
  If the motor hums and does not start techs often try swapping in a new start capacitor.
  
  If spinning the fan manually will get it running, the problem is usually a bad starter capacitor.
• Fan Contactor Relay: Check for a fan contactor switch (also called the condenser fan motor relay) that is dirty, burned, or has loose connections
• Wiring damage: Check for nicked, cut, or corroded wires or wire connections between the fan motor and the fan contactor switch
• Seizing condenser fan motor or fan parts: Check for bad or loose fan drive shaft or worn, seized fan shaft bearings or for a binding fan motor drive shaft elsewhere in the assembly.
  
  Does the fan blade spin freely when the motor is off?
  
  A fan or motor drive shaft that is binding can kill or freeze the fan motor.
  
  A fan (or any electric) motor drive shaft that wobbles side to side (don't try this with power on) is worn out or has worn-out bearings.
  
  Also a fan whose blades are bent or damaged and out of balance can put a wobble on the motor shaft that leads to overheating and binding.
• Motor windings: Check for condenser fan motor windings or other wiring connections that open when the motor is spinning but close (and thus test "OK" when the motor is "off".
• Overheating fan motor: Check for a failing or overheating condenser fan motor - if the motor is running hot it may be failing internally (though low voltage, mechanical binding, or excessive current draw in the system can cause overheating too - is the motor stopping due to thermal overload?
  
  Airflow obstructions at the condenser unit can also cause the fan motor to overheat.
• Defrost cycle on heat pumps: Check that compressor motor itself is running.
  
  If the compressor keeps running and the fan re-starts after a 5-15 minute period, and if it's a heat pump running in cold weather, you may be simply seeing a defrost cycle.
  
  It is normal for the compressor to run with the fan "off" during a defrost cycle that might be 5-15 minutes depending on conditions.
  
  If the compressor and fan stop together (but the thermostat continues to call for cooling and the evaporator/cooling unit/blower assembly continues to run) there may be a refrigerant metering device problem, excessive head pressure in the system, or other related defects outlined beginning
  
  at COMPRESSOR / CONDENSER REPAIR.
• Check for a failed compressor defrost cycle timer or control on heat pumps. If the defrost cycle sticks "on" or "off" in cold weather the heat pump will often stop working altogether.

This article series discusses the outdoor components of air conditioners and heat pumps: how the air conditioning compressor-condenser unit works; the detection of defects in air conditioning compressor and condensing units, including evaluation of air conditioner compressor noises, hard starting, lost cooling capacity, and detection of a burned out compressor or A/C compressors at or near end of their life.

If your air conditioning or heat pump system has lost its cooling capacity or won't start

see REPAIR GUIDE for AIR CONDITIONERS.

Which air conditioner, heat pump, or furnace fan is located where?

In our simple air conditioning (or heat pump) system sketch shown at left, the light blue fan shown at left in the sketch (above the red compressor box) is the outdoor compressor/condenser fan discussed

at FAN, COMPRESSOR / CONDENSER UNIT.

The dark blue fan shown at right in the sketch is the indoor air handler or blower compartment or cooling coil fan found inside the building. This fan blows building air across the evaporator coil (or cooling coil) to cool and dehumidify indoor building air.

We discuss this fan

at FAN, AIR HANDLER BLOWER UNIT.

Comments: important to use the right condenser fan motor start / run capacitor

(Aug 17, 2011) Jim said:

Thanks for the great step by step instructions to troubleshooting. My AC unit is 18 years old, and I was afraid it was hopeless, but I decided to run through your checklist, and I was able to get it cleaned up and running again.

(Sept 19, 2012) Robert said:

I had a problem with my Condenser unit. The fan would run for a while then stop. I had a HVAC Repair company come out over 5 times trying to fix it. First the capacitor was replaced. The problem still came back in the mid day heat. Then they replaced the fan motor. The problem came back.

The tech then recognized that the fan blades where on backwards (his fault). The problem came back. Finally a senior tech came out and recognized that the fan required a different capacitor than what was initially changed in.

The final solution was for a separate capacitor that matched the fan's requirements to be installed.

Moral of the story: do it yourself and use the right capacitor.

Reply:

Jim, thanks so much for the very nice feedback - that's just super. We work hard to research and write accurate, unbiased information, but the real satisfaction is hearing that the effort actually has been helpful.

Robert,

Thank you for the helpful comment. Indeed you point out that when replacing a start/run capacitor itnisnimportant to use the proper one.

HVAC Compressor-Condenser Fan Motor Replacement & Wiring

Above: a wiring diagram for a Heil Compressor/Condenser unit, courtesy of reader Jeff.

[Click to enlarge any image]

Watch out: the wiring instructions and diagram for your specific air conditioner or heat pump compressor/condenser unit are model dependent. The wiring diagram just above may not apply.

Question: my Heil Condenser unit with GE fan used 4 wires, new fan has only 3 wiers

(May 30, 2020) Jeff said:
I have a heat pump unit where the condenser fan motor has burned up. Ordered a new one off Amazon with the same CAP rating. My old fan was a 4 wire system and has a red,yellow, brown, and black wire.

The new motor is a 3 wire with yellow, brown, and black. I notice the red on the unit is coming off of a small circuit board that says low.

Am I able to wire a 3 wire fan into a heating pump that had a 4 wire fan?

Also, noticed the old fan wire actually has a quick connect coupler for all four wires to connect into a circuit board.

The brand of the Unit is Heil with a GE motor.

This Q&A were posted originally

at FAN, COMPRESSOR / CONDENSER DIAGNOSTIC FAQs

Moderator reply: start with the wiring diagram

Jeff

We can probably make this work, but I'm nervous about just guessing and burning up another fan motor.

See if you can find the wiring diagram for your condenser unit - often on a sticker in the unit, or always in the IO manual for the unit. We ought to be able to follow the old 4-wire fan wiring

Also some basic condenser unit wiring connections and wire color codes are summarized

at COMPRESSOR / CONDENSER DIAGNOSTICS

(June 6, 2020) Jeff said:

Sorry taken so log to reply, I work a lot of hours. I've included pictures of the schematic as you suggested.Really hoping this new fan is able to be used.

(June 7, 2020) (mod) said:

Jeff

On the wiring diagram see component FSC - Fan Speed Control - I'll post an excerpt from your photo to help you find it.

That identifies what each of the wires are. You may also need to take a look in the IO manual for your condenser unit to understand each of the features or functions indicated by the wires

(June 7, 2020) Jeff said:

I see Red wire goes to LO for the fan.

The new 3 wire fan doesn't have this wire.

What would be the risk in not connecting the red wire to anything and just connecting the brown, black and yellow wires?

(June 7, 2020) (mod) said:

My guess is no low speed, but we need to know all circumstances in which that speed is used to assure dropping it is ok.

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Reader Q&A - also see RECOMMENDED ARTICLES & FAQs

On 2020-09-10 - by (mod) -

Bob:

I would leave the system OFF entirely until at the very least you're sure that you put in the proper charge of refrigerant. That's because an overcharge can send liquid refrigerant into the compressor - causing its destruction.

On 2020-09-10 by Bobrosss

ugh, I mean I did those 2 tasks separately hehe.

On 2020-09-10 by Bobrosss

yes, I am not familiar with the proper terms. I did the vacuum and charge thing, meaning I hooked an evacuator pump on the system and then just opened the service valve so the R410a could fill the line set. Thank you for your response. I will contact pioneer

On 2020-09-10 - by (mod) - Pioneer heat pump fan reversed direction

Bob,

Thank you for the helpful diagnostic question about your Pioneer brand Mini Split AC unit. The fact that your fan is reversing direction tells me that this is a heat pump and the controls are miswired or oscillating between heating and cooling, or there's a fan wiring error - as the unit's new.

More subtle would be a mis-adjusted or debris-clogged expansion valve or reversing valve.

Note that Pioneer's mini split units come pre-charged with R410A in a volume sufficient to ccommodate refrigerant line lengths up to 25 ft. per circuit. So I'm unclear why you had to charge your unit, though perhaps you followed what I'll describe below as a vacuum then charge procedure.

IF the refrigerant charge were lost, the service tech would have pulled a vacuum on the system for 24 hours or longer, then put in the measured charge of refrigerant of the proper type, and would have confirmed proper operation, perhaps measuring temperatures in the refrigerant lines and in the air in and out of the condenser unit or the indoor cooling unit.

Below is an example - for other readers, of a Pioneer mini-split AC system.

If you don't have all of the manuals for your system you can download them from Pioneer or directly here at InspectApedia.com at

PIONEER HVAC MANUALS Air Conditioners, Heat Pumps, Split Systems, Inverters

I'd contact Pioneer directly at their tech support department to ask for further help with that P4 error.

Contact Pioneer at (800) 919-0150 Web: pioneerminisplit.com/

On 2020-09-09 by Bobrosss

hello, new to here, new to heating and cooling. Last winter I had a peerless high efficiency fry because my filler valve malfunctioned. I ended up replacing with a Navian high efficiency boiler. Was... interesting to learn. Since then, I bought a mini split pioneer seer 19? I think it is a 13k but unit. I installed it following the install instructions to the letter.

I got everything hooked up and my buddy lent me his evacuator. I dried the lines and did the pressure testing and all held perfectly. I then opened the service valve port to charge the line set with freon (whatever the new stuff is called). I could hear the lines charging and again, no leaks.

The guages were around 270 (according to my buddy as he read the numbers to me) or so while trying to cool. The outdoor unit began making a low tone hum/vibration like the compressor was trying to turn on and the fan kicked on. Nothing. No cooling, no heating.

The line sets didn't even get cold or hot by even a degree difference. The reversing valve must be working (im guessing) because when i call for heat, the fan will come to a stop, pause and then reverse direction. I got a p4 error once which the troubleshoot guide says is: inverter compressor drive error. I have not got that error since. Any idea what this could be? Is it just as simple as the compressor drive error? Is the drive separate from the compressor?

On 2020-09-06 - by (mod) -

Is the motor overheating?

On 2020-09-06 by Anonymous

Fan in putside unit stops running in a halo hour

On 2020-09-01 - by (mod) -

Electrical overload, loss of cooling.

On 2020-08-31 by Andrew R.

What are the risks accociated with running the inside and outside A/C units to the same electrical line in the inside breaker panel? Just had an older unit replaced by a new 3.5 ton inside air handler and outside condenser. Thanks.

On 2020-08-03 - by (mod) -

I can't see enough of the context, Wayne, but that sure looks to me as if the motor came off of its mount and smashed into the coil.

On 2020-08-03 by Wayne

my condenser fan is a trane fan03652 or replacement fan04690. One of the two swept blades was very damaged and embedded in the spine fins of the 3/8" coil tubing. The coil was not penetrated & maintains pressure. Upon testing the condenser motor, it runs and spins true.

The only culprit I could pin this to was that the framing the motor & fan are supported by, was that of the four screws that secure this assy to the chassis, 3 of 4 had missing spacers.

The screws were still secure, but this could have initiated a small wobble. This is speculative.

The four screws of the fan motor to support frame were still tight, as were the four bigger screws attaching the framing to chassis (minus spacers). Am I barking up the wrong tree and should I be looking elsewhere?

On 2020-07-22 18:15:33.595128 - by (mod) -

Joanne

On most units that would be backwards

On 2020-07-22 by Joanne

I had a new comparator and fan motor put on my Trane compressors/condenser outside. The fan is blowing hot air out the sides and you feel cool air on top Is it running in the right direction

On 2020-07-13 - by (mod) - an turns off outside and doesn't come back on until I switch the ac off

Jon

I think you are describing the case in which the outdoor compressor condenser unit is shutting down shortly after startup. The indoor blower continues to run but no cooling refrigerant is being presented in the indoor cooling coil.

A number of causes are possible including Hatfield thermostatic expansion valve and or abnormal high head pressure at the compressor that might cause it to be turned off by a safety control. P


Do let me know what your service repair technician says

On 2020-07-13 by Jon Christian

My heat pump has a similar issue only in reverse. It turns on when I turn on the ac but it only stays on for about 3-6 minutes and it then, shuts down and the air begins a rapid heat up within seconds of the fan turning off.

The fan turns off outside and doesn't come back on until I switch the ac off and wait at least an hour or so n but it is still blowing air in the apartment.

On 2020-06-17 - by (mod) - Humming fan motor

Humming fan motor usually means either a bad starting cap or a seized motor.

On 2020-06-11 by Fred

Changed compressor starter capacitor but not the dual run capacitor. Now the compressor comes on (freon line gets cold) however; the condenser fan is not running but humming.

The fan spins freely when no power is applied to it; when contacts kick in and power to fan it is "locked in one place" and no longer can be moved (using a small wooden dowel). I ohmed the 3 motor windings and they add up correctly. Could this just be the run capacitor? Is this more likely the fan bearings?

On 2020-06-09 0 by Denise

Ok, I am not sure about the model number of my unit either. The tech's writing is hard to read. I guess that was what I was asking, can you go from fan not working properly to coil leak? I am not convinced the fan was fixed either the first or second visit.

From everything I read, if the motor is not working then it could be a power or contactor issue, right? The unit cooled fine until late last week when we noticed it being extra warm but we have had a mild spring until the last couple of weeks.

I am thinking of asking for a second opinion just to be sure before I sink money into a new coil. Anything else you can think of to ask about this situation? I really appreciate your help!!!

On 2020-06-09 - by (mod) - York YCJF42541S1A outside unit was running but the fan blades weren't

Denise

There is probably something here that we don't understand. I'm not sure how refrigerant leak would make the fan run intermittently.

Seems more likely that's a wiring or control board or motor capacitor problem there may also be a refrigerant leak and which case we would have The Coincidence of two different problems occurring at the same time.

Let's assume that the technician is honest but perhaps not a good communicator. Your might ask for an explanation and let me know what you're told.

On 2020-06-08 by Denise

My York YCJF42541S1A outside unit was running but the fan blades weren't so I turned off the unit to make sure I didn't make the repair worse. Inside the house is warm and could have been blowing warm air. Tech came out and replaced the fan motor.

Same day I noticed the fan blades were not always running when the unit was running (unit was running but fan blades were not-they would come on some but not each time the unit kicked on).

Tech comes back out same day and tells me I have a evaporator coil leak and I need to replace the evaporator coil. Does this seem reasonable? The unit is 8 years old. Shouldn't the coil last longer than that? I don't want to spend the money if it is a capacitor. Help

On 2020-06-06 - by (mod) - air conditioning drags voltage

Nsis

Usually drawing high amos is a sign of a failing motor

On 2020-06-04 by Nsisong

The Air conditioning drags voltage and almost turns off other appliances when compressor attempts to start up
. And if used on a generating set it seems to power off the generating set, though testing the compressor with a digital multimeter it seems it's still functional, or I suppose so
Please advice on what to do, thank you

On 2020-05-09 - by (mod) -

Sorry Jedson but I don't understand the question.

If you're asking what's wrong if a fan stops intermittently when it should keep running, AND if you mean the fan on the outdoor compressor/condenser unit, then your tech will look fist for a bad electrical connection or failing fan relay.

On 2020-05-09 by Jedson

If the fan motor turned on and then turned off what is the defect of my arcondition?

On 2020-03-02 by Anonymous - outside fan is not running

my outside fan is not running even though the heat pump is on

On 2020-01-26 - by (mod) - heat pump fan out side is not working

Joyce

From the very little we know about that situation that you described it would make sense to leave the circuit off completely for safety. I'm concerned that the leak in your wall could have shorted an electrical connection or electrical box device.

On 2020-01-25 by joyce

my heat pump fan out side is not working after a man put a water pump in the roof be for he came water run down the wall in side

On 2019-11-25 - by (mod) - Common causes of a fan motor intermittently cutting off

Chris

Common causes of a fan motor intermittently cutting off include

- loose or bad electrical connection

- defective fan control relay or control board

- overloaded motor, including possibly low voltage supply that could affect even a new motor

- improper installation, binding motor or fan assembly (also overloading the motor)

You might also find by searching this website our article on ELECTRIC MOTOR DIAGNOSIS

On 2019-11-25 by Chris

I have a trane heatpump. The fan motor and capacitor have been replaced.

The fan is still cutting off and not cutting back on. Got up this morning and it was off, but the unit was still running. It had gotten down to 62 degrees. Had to turn the unit off for about an hour. When I turned it back on the fan came on. What else could be wrong with it?

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Continue reading at CAPACITORS for HARD STARTING MOTORS or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see FAN, COMPRESSOR / CONDENSER DIAGNOSTIC FAQs for diagnostic questions that can help get the condenser fan working.

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FAN, COMPRESSOR / CONDENSER UNIT at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

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