How should you clean off or remove efflorescence, stains, or "growths" on building surfaces?
Here we describe the removal and prevention of mineral deposits, efflorescence, that forms white, red or brown stains on building interior or exterior masonry or stucco surfaces.
Invariably these crystalline salts are caused by moisture or water leaks that leach minerals out of nearby materials such as the concrete wall shown below. As the water evaporates from the surface it leaves crystallized salts like those shown.
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What steps should I do to remove the efflorescence in my building? - Valerie Mercer
Below we summarize procedures to remove efflorescence from both indoor and outdoor building surfaces.
You can often remove indoor mineral salt efflorescence from a surface by ordinary cleaning methods.
Dehumidification for efflorescence control?
You might think that indoors you could just run a dehumidifier but in my opinion that won't fix an efflorescence problem since almost always efflorescence on masonry surfaces indoors is caused by outside moisture that is penetrating the building.
Masonry sealer paints for efflorescence control?
Painting the interior side of an exposed masonry foundation wall with a masonry sealer paint will not fix an actual basement wall leak and in such cases the paint job will not be long lasting protection against efflorescence either.
However, painting the interior surface of the foundation wall with an appropriate sealer paint will slow down the passage of moisture through the wall and thus slow the formation of mineral salts in the future.
Incidentally, in our white efflorescence photo (above left), the concrete wall had been painted, but not with a masonry sealer paint. We can make that guess because masonry sealer paints typically appear thicker and more granular on the wall due to their content of portland cement and sometimes sand for added body and waterproofing.
How does the sealer paint work to help against basement moisture?
A significant factor in the movement of moisture (as opposed to an outright water leak) through a foundation wall is the combination of capillary action that moves water molecules through a substance and evaporation from the indoor wall surface that acts as a molecular pump to send that moisture into the building air.
By sealing the interior surface of the foundation wall we are significantly slowing the capillary movement of water thorough the wall by interfering with its ability to reach and evaporate into room air.
The stains on this brick chimney are introduced
On an outdoor masonry surface you can use soap and water or just plain water and a spray hose or if the surface can tolerate it, a power washer to remove efflorescence
Photo: white efflorescence on the surface of a new concrete block retaining wall in the Northeastern U.S. courtesy of home inspector Dov Ber Kahn.
The CMU retaining wall with drainage was installed at the front of the home.
The wall appeared plumb but was concerned regarding the efflorescence.
It's a new wall - the house was recently-renovated.
What are your thoughts? - DovBer Kahn
Moderator reply: diagnostic questions about the cause of masonry block retaining wall efflorescence
The absence of signs of any settlement, leaning, bulging, bowing is encouraging, but it is of course early in the life of the wall. Key, as you know, is avoiding accumulation of water behind the wall: hence those over-sized drain holes we see in the photo.
But more is needed than drain openings through a retaining wall. Besides proper construction (footing, anchors, etc. that we can't see), backfill of gravel can improve drainage behind the wall, and keeping surface and roof runoff away is our repeated advice.
In your second photo, below, we see that apparently there's not much horizontal distance between this block retaining wall and the nearby home, and we also see bare soil - no grass - and confirm your report of recent construction. So there's no large lawn area sloping to the wall. But still the house itself (roof drainage) could send water into that area.
So I would start by looking for water sources such as roof drainage that should be directed well away from the retaining wall - don't dump water right behind the wall.
More efflorescence diagnosis-questions:
I will be encouraged if they tell you that there was plenty of gravel behind the wall so that water can find its way to those Outlet pipes and I would be even more encouraged if they've seen any water coming out of those drain openings.
Efflorescence itself is simply a salt Left Behind as water comes through the wall and evaporates leaving mineral salts on the surface.
So we know from all of that that there's water on that side of the wall.
Perhaps they have been watering grass or plants. Concern is that if the wall was built without adequate gravel and drainage behind it then it's life without buckling or movement may be short.
They can clean off the efflorescence using something as simple as a household vinegar wash. But it will return. I wouldn't want them to confuse the aesthetic or cosmetic complaint with the question of whether the wall is going to buckle from freezing water behind it.
If the owners have photos of the wall during construction that would be helpful in guessing what its future may be.
Also see
RETAINING WALL DESIGNS, TYPES, DAMAGE
Watch out: when the surface is dry and looks better or even perfect, you will nevertheless see a return of the efflorescence unless you find and fix the exterior leak source.
Outside, for example when you see efflorescence on portions of a brick chimney, I'd look at the chimney crown and roof flashings to be sure we're not allowing water to penetrate the chimney interior.
After cleaning an exterior masonry surface we sometimes will treat the surface with a silicone or similar waterproofing compound such as products sold by Thompson's Water Seal™. (To remain effective, such coatings need to be renewed frequently.)
Details about tracking down and fixing sources of leaks into buildings and thus about preventing efflorescence deposits (as well as mold and "mildew" in buildings) are found at
Hi, will 9 years of no eaves troughs cause Efflorescence? When we bought our home it had no eaves and we installed them immediately.
Now 6 years later there are white marks suddenly appearing 6 inches above the floor on the garage concrete. I am fairly positive this area has been drying out visibly, should we be concerned? - Laura 5/13/2012
Reply: Maybe
Small amounts of efflorescence that dry out and are not signs of pumping significant moisture into a building, if they are on a solid masonry wall, are more of a cosmetic than a functional worry.
But large areas, constantly growing mineral crystals, or stains that suggest that significant amounts of moisture are being pumped into a building can be signs of or contributions to related problems with indoor mold contamination. For example, efflorescence on the plaster surface of a wood framed, insulated wall, means there is quite likely problematic moisture inside the wall, inviting mold, moldy insulation, wood rot, or insect damage. In such cases, further investigation of the cause, extent, and measures to cure the moisture source would be in order.
Also see
- HUMIDITY CONTROL & TARGETS INDOORS - Humidity: What indoor humidity should we maintain in order to avoid a mold problem?
- ACTION GUIDE - WHAT TO DO ABOUT INDOOR MOLD - Action Guide: What to do about mold, mildew, and other indoor allergens
- FIBERGLASS INSULATION MOLD - Fiberglass: Mold in Fiberglass Insulation© 2005 comments about a field study in process, & more about health hazards from fiberglass insulation - DJF
(Mar 31, 2013) Linda said:
The article was informative, but how do I solve the efflorescence problem on my concrete basement floor?
Reply:
Linda,
You have to find and fix or correct the source of moisture
Please see attached for pictures trying to figure out what the issue can be on the bottom?
Everyone 3 landscapers are telling me there is not a water issue?
The walls are less than 6 months old: virtually brand new. - Anonymous by private email 2016/11/11
Reply:
I cannot, of course, diagnose the cause of these water stains and efflorescence at the bottom of the wall in your photos as I can't see the rest of the building.
From the photos it looks as if the exterior wall is stucco coated-concrete or concrete block or it's an EIFS synthetic stucco wall.
See EFFLORESCENCE SALTS & WHITE DEPOSITS for more about white efflorescence stains or blooms on stucco building exteriors.
But IF there is no water and no moisture staining indoors at a foundation wall of a basement or crawl area on the other side of the walls you show, and
IF the patio drains away from the building, not towards it, and IF the roof gutters and downspouts are working so that we are sure you're not spilling roof runoff or surface runoff against the building wall,
THEN the water stains are probably due to a smaller amount of water, say from rainfall or wet soils at the patio-wall juncture and should dry out in dry weather.
If that's a garden hose hookup I see in one of your photos, that hose bibb and hose could be a source of extra water in this area.
It's common for the bottom of a new stucco wall to be the last to dry-out as it is in contact with soil. And damp or wet soil extends that time, increasing the chance of formation of white efflorescence mineral salt deposits along the wall bottom.
Any steps you can take to be sure that there is no roof drainage splashing onto this wall and that the patio slopes away from the wall will improve the situation.
- See ARTICLE INDEX to GUTTERS & DOWNSPOUTS for a sickening amount of information on how to get roof runoff away from your building.
- See GRADING, DRAINAGE & SITE WORK - for help with making sure that surface runoff goes away from the building.
- See WET BASEMENT PREVENTION if your home is showing signs of basement water entry.
Other readers who see a white bloom on stucco after installation or painting of that material should
see PAINT on STUCCO, FAILURES for details of paint failure diagnosis on stucco surfaces.
Watch out: do not attempt to use muriatic acid nor any other harsh chemical without reading and following the manufacturer's safety advice and procedures. You can get badly burned or even lose an eye.
Watch out: in general we do not recommend using high power pressure washing and even more strongly we caution against using sand-blasting to clean masonry surfaces, particularly outdoors. Sand-blasting brick causes lasting damage and can even cause future water absorption into the structure that causes structural and other damage.
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Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.
Your site is very informative! Do I need to wear a mask when removing effloresence?
I need to remove what appears to be a lot of efflorescence that has appeared on the garage floor of my rental home after our record rainstorms. There are big cracks on the slab floor, but I don't think my landlord will be interested in doing the cleanup or repairing the floor.
Anyway, do I need to wear a mask while vacuuming the stuff up? Is it fine enough to go through the vacuum cleaner paper filter? Thanks in advance. Your site is very informative! - On 2017-03-15 by mss
Reply by (mod) -
It's always safer to wear protective gear when you don't know what material you may be breathing or getting on skin or in eyes.
Efflorescence itself is a mineral salt left behind by evaporating water - not particularly harmful though if the evaporating water contained bacteria or other pathogens or if there is mold contamination present I'd be more careful.
tan fuzzy stuff on inside of shed roof. 6" 'strings' hanging down with black half moon shaped things. dripping out sticky substance. clusters of cream balls. help! what is it? (Apr 20, 2014) linda haytop said:
Reply:
Linda I can't imagine from just the text note. Use the CONTACT link found at page bottom and send me some sharp photos and I'll comment further.
Watch out: if this is termite damage. You'll want to check out:
(June 4, 2014) Anonymous said:
I have what appears to be efflorescence on a home interior rock wall (fieldstone?) surrounding a fireplace.
Most of the deposits are white but there are some darker patches above the fireplace (not used for years) where the stone has started to deteriorate.
I brushed and then vacuumed all areas which improved the appearance. This problem has been going on for at least 4-5 yrs and the house has been closed up each winter for many years
I'm not sure about products to clean it like Magic Acid, etc. because I'm concerned that cleaning materials may discolor the stone and make it look worse.
The mission is not to solve the root cause but to improve the appearance. Suggestions are greatly appreciated.
From Neil Hochman NH83151@aol.com
Correction to Anonymous/Neil Hochman post:
The fireplace wall is NOT fieldstone but a greyish/blue stone of uncertain composition laid out brick style surrounding a bluestone fireplace hearth not affected by the efflorescence.
RE: Earlier post about efflorescence on indoor fireplace wall. The first comment was accidentally send under Anonymous and has disappeared from the thread. Need to remove efflorescence patches from the stone wall described below but am worried about what product to use as staining might result? (June 8, 2014) Neil Hochman said:
Powder has been brushed off and vacuumed. What do you recommend for safe cleaning? Thank you.
Reply:
Neil: long time since we've chatted - do you recall sleeping on the Murphy Bed at 3 Willowbrook in Poughkeepsie? Or is this a different Neil? Could there be more than one?
Anyway, check your chimney cap, crown, sides, and flashings for leaks - any of which might make the chimney not just leaky but unsafe.
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