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AIRBOUND HEAT SYSTEM REPAIR by WATER FEED VALVE
ANODES & DIP TUBES on WATER HEATERS
ANTIFREEZE for BOILERS
ANTI SCALD VALVES
APPLIANCE DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR
APPLIANCE EFFICIENCY RATINGS
ASBESTOS IDENTIFICATION IN BUILDINGS
BACKDRAFTING HEATING EQUIPMENT
BACKFLOW PREVENTER VALVE, HEATING SYS
BACKFLOW PREVENTER, HEATER WATER FEEDER
BACKUP HEAT for HEAT PUMPS
BIO-FUEL PRODUCTION & USE
BLOWER DOORS & AIR INFILTRATION
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BLOWER FAN OPERATION & TESTING
BLUE vs YELLOW COMBUSTION FLAMES
CARBON MONOXIDE - CO
CHEMICAL TREATMENTS for BOILERS
CHIMNEY INSPECTION DIAGNOSIS REPAIR
CHIMNEYS & FLUES, ASBESTOS TRANSITE PIPE
CHINESE DRYWALL HAZARDS
CIRCULATOR PUMPS & RELAYS
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CREOSOTE FIRE HAZARDS
CURVED BRICK CHIMNEYS, SULPHATION
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CONVECTOR HEATERS - HYDRONIC COILS
DEFINITION of HEATING & COOLING TERMS
DIAGNOSTIC GUIDES A/C / HEAT PUMP
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DIRECT VENTS / SIDE WALL VENTS
DIRECTORY of OIL TANK EXPERTS
DRAFT HOOD, GAS HEATER
DRAFT MEASUREMENT, CHIMNEYS & FLUES
DRAFT REGULATOR, DAMPER, BOOSTER
DUCT INSULATION, Asbestos Paper
DUCT SYSTEM & DUCT DEFECTS
DUCTS, Asbestos Transite Pipe
DUST, HVAC CONTAMINATION STUDY
DUST SAMPLING PROCEDURE
ELECTRIC MOTOR DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE
ELECTRIC MOTOR OVERLOAD RESET SWITCH
ELECTRICAL POWER SWITCH FOR HEAT
EVAPORATIVE COOLING SYSTEMS
FAN, AIR HANDLER BLOWER UNIT
FAN AUTO ON THERMOSTAT SWITCH
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FAN CONVECTOR HEATERS - HYDRONIC COILS
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FAN NOISES, HVAC
FILTERS, AIR for HVAC SYSTEMS
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FIRE SAFETY CONTROLS
FIREPLACES & HEARTHS
FLAME COLOR, BLUE vs YELLOW COMBUSTION
FLOODED HEATING EQUIPMENT REPAIR
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FLUE VENT CONNECTORS
FREEZE-PROOF A BUILDING
FUEL OIL TYPES & CHARACTERISTICS
FUEL UNIT, HEATING OIL PUMPS
GALVANIC SCALE & METAL CORROSION
GAS BURNER FLAME & NOISE DEFECTS
GAS FIRED WATER HEATERS
GAS PIPING, VALVES, CONTROLS
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HEAT LOSS in BUILDINGS
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HEATING LOSS DIAGNOSIS-BOILERS
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HEATING OIL CLOUD WAX GEL POINT
HEATING OIL EXPOSURE HAZARDS, LIMITS
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LOW VOLTAGE BUILDING WIRING
LOW VOLTAGE TRANSFORMER TEST
GAS LP & NATURAL GAS SAFETY HAZARDS
MANUALS & PARTS GUIDES - HVAC
MIXING / ANTI-SCALD VALVES
NO HEAT - BOILER
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NOISE / SOUND DIAGNOSIS & CURE
NOISE AIR CONDITIONER / HEAT PUMP
NOISE, DUCT VIBRATION DAMPENERS
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ODORS GASES SMELLS, DIAGNOSIS & CURE
ODORS FROM HEATING SYSTEMS
OIL LINE CLOGGING FIX
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PLASTIC PLEXVENT ULTRAVENT RECALL
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RELIEF VALVE LEAKS
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SOOT on OIL FIRED HEATING EQUIPMENT
SPILL SWITCH, FLUE GAS DETECTOR
STAIN DIAGNOSIS on BUILDING INTERIORS
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THERMAL EXPANSION CRACKS in BRICK
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THERMAL IMAGING, THERMOGRAPHY
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WATER HEATER SAFETY
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WATER HEATER NOISE DIAGNOSIS, CURE
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WINTERIZE A BUILDING
WOOD-OIL COMBINATION HEATERS
WOOD STOVE OPERATION & SAFETY
ZONE VALVES, HEATING
Sooty oil fired heating equipment: this article explains the significance of soot on, around, or inside oil fired heating boilers, furnaces, and water heaters.
We explain how much oil burner soot is normal and when soot production is a problem. Thick soot build-up inside of a flue, the chimney, or inside of the boiler or furnace heat exchanger or inside of a domestic water heater is a problem that causes higher fuel bills, equipment operating problems, and potential fire and safety problems.
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Watch out: Safety warning about soot: Sooting can occur with both gas fired and oil fired systems.
Soot coming from a gas fired heater is probably indicating a very dangerous condition risking carbon monoxide poisoning
. If a gas fired appliance is producing soot, it should be turned off and Immediate service is needed.
and GAS FIRED WATER HEATERS for safety warnings about soot at heating appliances.
Soot coming from an oil fired heater warns of improper operation and risks a destructive puffback.
Significance of Sooty Debris visible in the flue vent connector or on top of equipment around the heating boiler
If you see soot, rust flakes, and debris in the flue vent connector (photo at page top) or chunks of black and brown sooty crud on top of horizontal surfaces near your oil fired heating equipment, this means that the heating system needs to be cleaned and serviced.
Our photo at page top shows what was probably several years of accumulated soot, rust flakes, and debris in the flue vent connector of an oil-fired horizontal furnace in a wet moldy crawlspace. The owner thought that his system, which was almost impossible to access, had "just been cleaned".
Our photo (left) shows soot and crud that has blown out of the boiler flue vent connector and sprinkled itself on every horizontal surface in the boiler room and in a nearby garage.
We wiped these surfaces clean and even vacuumed every thing in sight each time the boiler was serviced. That made it easier to convince our heating service tech that the system was running "dirty".
A little oil burner soot after service is normal: Because cleaning an oil fired heater disturbs soot and some of that leaks into the utility room, it's normal to see a very light coating of soot dust in the 24 hours or so after your heating system is cleaned and serviced.
But if you clean that stuff up it should not quickly reappear. If the heating system has "just been serviced" and you see soot and crud blowing around, especially if it's new soot production, this debris means that service was incomplete.
Watch out: don't use your household vacuum cleaner to vacuum oil burner soot unless you're willing to risk sacrificing that vacuum cleaner - it may become so dirty you won't want to use it in the home for general cleaning. Worse, if the vacuum cleaner is leaky you may end up blowing soot into the living area.
A proper service procedure for oil fired heating equipment includes removal of the flue vent connector and thorough cleaning of all debris from these components as well as a visual inspection of the condition of the chimney to which the flue vent connector joins to send combustion products outside.
Opening this damper and looking inside meant we literally "hit pay dirt". The dirt meant that the system needed to be cleaned, that the owner was paying for heat, but the heat was going up the chimney, not into the home -- as we explain a bit more below.
A hard to access heating system in a cramped nasty area rarely receives thorough cleaning and service. That was the case for this system.
Why is soot or crud in the oil fired boiler or furnace flue a problem?
A flue vent connector ((also called the "stack pipe" or "flue pipe") is the metal pipe that connects the oil fired heating appliance to a chimney in order to safely vent combustion gases outdoors. That's a place where we can see some helpful clues about how the oil fired heating equipment is operating without disassembling the oil fired boiler, furnace, or oil burner itself.
When we look in to the flue close to the heating boiler or furnace, such as at the barometric damper shown at above left, it's normal to see a thin coating of soot on the interior of the metal flue pipe.
Because soot acts like an insulating coating, too much soot in a heating system causes problems. So we do not want to see soot accumulating in depth in the flue vent connector or chimney (above right) nor blowing around the boiler room, accumulating on top of the boiler, or blowing into and staining other areas of the building.
Technical note: the seasonal efficiency of oil fired heating equipment declines between service calls - that's the normal result of soot accumulation. If we run oil fired heating equipment too hot, to produce "zero" soot, we're sending too much heat (and money) up the chimney. So a modest amount of soot accumulation in the boiler, furnace, or flue vent connector is normal between annual service calls.More examples and photos of soot in and on oil burners and oil fired heaters are
at DRAFT REGULATOR SOOT INSPECTION
at CHIMNEY HEIGHT & CLEARANCE CODE
Watch out: if your oil fired heating equipment can't make it from one annual service call to the next one without blowing soot into the building, sooting up, clogging, and becoming noisy or smoky, something is wrong. Just how much soot is ok? We answer that just below.
Soot layers too thick in boilers or furnaces means we spend more to heat the building:
Soot inside the furnace or boiler reduces the transfer of heat into the heating system's water (or air if it's a furnace). Thus the transfer of heat into the building is reduced by soot in the heating equipment. As the soot layer gets thicker less heat is transferred and more of the heat simply continues to go up the chimney instead of into the building.
When a heating service technician measures the "efficiency" of a heating system, the number, say 85%, means that for each dollar you spend on heating oil, about 85 cents is coming into the building as heat, and the remaining 15 cents is going up the chimney as wasted energy.
Soot layers too thick in a boiler or furnace could be unsafe, even a fire hazard:
Soot layers in boilers or furnaces that are too thick means that the equipment is running "hot" and could even be unsafe.
Where a heating boiler was nearly blocked solid with soot, we've measured flue temperatures close to the boiler of over 1000 degrees F.!
Any combustibles too close to a hot metal flue or chimney could catch on fire at this temperature.
So how thick can the soot layer be before we have to clean the furnace or boiler?
1/8" of soot is the limit
So if the thickness of the soot you see in the flue vent connector, looking in at the barometric damper is 1/8" thick or more, the system should be cleaned and tuned.
Warning: even if the soot layer is thin and fine where you're looking, don't rule out other possible boiler, furnace, flue, or chimney problems. For example, debris could be blocking the chimney, or the flue pipe could be blocked with debris further on closer to the chimney.
But seeing that the flue looks clean where we can inspect is good news.
BOILER OPERATING PROBLEMS discusses the signs of improper oil fired hot water at operation.
A discussion of our page top photo and those rusty sooty fragments in view is found at How to Inspect a Barometric Damper. Separately, diagnosing black stains on indoor surfaces in the living space, possibly caused by oil fired equipment sooty operation or puffbacks, is discussed
This article series answers most questions about central heating system troubleshooting, inspection, diagnosis, and repairs. We describe how to inspect, troubleshoot and repair heating and air conditioning systems to inform home owners, buyers, and home inspectors of common heating system defects.
Troubles with Heat Scavengers & Passive Flue Gas Heat Recovery Devices on Oil or Wood Fired Heating Equipment
Reader Question: 11/29/2014 paul said: Oil Burner Filled House with Smoke
We just installed new oil burner last year in [our] house. We put [a] heat scavenger on pipe going to chimney side ways.
We didn't put a [draft regulator or barometric] damper on [flue] pipe.
We recently we had the furnace blow smoke out - [it] filled house bad[ly] with smoke and co2.
[We] took [the] furnace apart soot was a good half inch thick on top the nozzle, [though it] was clean the [combustion] chamber where it fires. [That area was] was clean as a whistle but the top of the furnace was sooty.
Question are them [sic] heat scavangers illegal in PA? Also do you need [a barometric] damper with them? Also can they be on their side? Also what went wrong?
Reply: flue gas heat recovery device cautions
Paul, various types of heat scavenging devices or passive flue gas heat recovery devices have been around for over 30 years:
I understand the temptation to just use the space where a barometric damper would have fit for a heat scavenger - since you don't need to cut flue pipe nor make other adjustments. But I have two worries with that approach:
Draft regulation is needed on all fossil fuel fired appliances: gas, oil, wood
First, without a barometric damper it is absolutely impossible to set the oil burner for optimum performance - draft conditions vary in and outside of a building for a number of reasons. The service tech needs to set the proper draft in the breech or flue for best performance. And bad draft as you'll hear me gripe next, can also speed oil burner clogging and malfunction.
Heat scavengers can become a source of clogged flues or chimneys, leading to trouble
Second, a heat scavenger on oil fired heating systems is asking for trouble in my OPINION because the multiple passages provide obstructions that invite soot accumulation, clogging, and subsequent oil burner back-pressure in the combustion chamber, overheating or incomplete, sootier-still combustion. Laws aside I personally don't like these devices on oil fired heating equipment.
You need to have an experienced heating service tech help you out with a thorough cleaning of the oil burner and flue, remove the scavenger, install a barometric damper, and inspect the chimney to decide if a more thorough chimney inspection and cleaning are needed.
If you give me the brand and model of your heat scavenger I will be glad to report more about the manufacturer's installation instructions. You might have mounted it improperly, but in my OPINION even a properly-mounted device may add risk fo clogging and venting and safety concerns.
Some state, provincial, or local codes may preclude the use of these heat miser or heat scavenger devices, either explicitly or implicitly by more general provisions. For example:
I'd give your local fire inspector or building department a call to ask their opinion about the use of this device on wood stoves as well as on oil fired heating equipment. Let us know what you're told.
Additional references suggest that these devices may be more reliable on gas-fired heating appliances.
Continue reading at OIL BURNER INSPECTION & REPAIR or select a topic from the More Reading links shown below.
Suggested citation for this web page
Green link shows where you are in this article series.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
(Oct 22, 2011) Roger said:
I have a barometric damper that I'm sure doesn't function properly, due to the fact that it doesn't open lose during heating, but on start up, I am getting blow out out a fine soot through the damper. Even if it was opening and closing, I still would get the "blow back" if that's what is meant by the term. There is not a signifcant amount of soot build up (I just cleaned everything, but it wasn't that bad to begin with.
Why am I getting the soot blowing out of the damper. Also, the flame is yellow. Good or bad?
A bang and blow out of soot at oil burner startup might be a clue that the burner shutdown cycle is dribbling oil into the combustion chamber, where it is ignited at next start. The risk is a messier and more dangerous puffback. I'd ask my heating service tech to take a look.
(Nov 23, 2012) dee said:
yes in michigan i have base board heat and in side the furnace it looks like a snake like coils out of cast iron but anyway i tryed to clean it out with a long wire brush i was getting out a lot of black soot i had to throw away too vac that i tryed to clean it up with is there a place that will clean that out for me thank you for your time. Can you please tell me if you know a company in or around warren Michigan I can call to have it clean out thank you for your time
Heating service companies do this cleaning.
(Jan 24, 2013) Karen A Driscoll said:
We have a propane hot water heater of 9 years old. Manufacturer will not stand behind the warranty. It has been out of commission for over a month now as we investigate the best way to replace. It has a lot of soot and never been cleaned. Our propane supplier does not know how to clean, suggested a chimney sweep. Now it is suggested to replace with an electric water heater. Any advise?
(May 31, 2014) Donna Lucier said:
We just got a new furnace from Sears.Since then,I've seen charcoal globs of dust coming out of the vents. We have a 61 yr. old home and never had any duct-cleaning ever! What do you think the soot is and why is it coming out of the vents.Also, our furnace blower is loud. We also have a new Sears humidifier and can feel very much moisture coming from the vents when the humidifier is running.
Donna certainly this soot problem is not acceptable, and it could also indicate an unsafe heating system installation.
WATCH OUT: for gas fired equipment, production of soot often means that the system is dangerous and should be shut off immediately as it may be sooting in combination with production of potentially fatal carbon monoxide.
For any fossil fuel fired system soot production means that the system is not set up, adjusted, or installed properly. The problem could be simply an adjustment, or there could be a more challenging problem to solve with a chimney or with combustion air.
If you have moisture coming out of air vents the humidifier is not working properly and needs to be adjusted or removed. The risks include leaks into the structure (mold, damage, rot, insect attack), and leaks into the heating system (causing damage to the equipment).
(June 1, 2014) Donna Lucier said:
Thank you so much,Dan,for getting back to me on this! It IS GAS fueled! I will show this to my husband and get it taken care of. I was concerned about this and even though it was inspected, the installation seemed like a rush job to me. Everything about it seems wrong with the moisture coming out of the vents. I didn't feel that with our last humidifier and my big concern with that is exactly what you said about mold, dust (and dust mites), rot and insect attacks like silverfish. What about the fact that the duct-work has never been cleaned in 61 years? I see dust bunnies blowing out onto the floor.Is that a health hazard? God bless you,Sir! You may have saved us both!
Soot production on gas fired equipment is indeed dangerous.
Of course I can't see your system. There could be some other source of dirt blowing through the system.
Be sure you have working carbon monoxide detectors installed properly.
I would turn the system off, contact the company and ask for help from a trained, experienced service rep, noting that the combination of soot and moisture both point to an unsafe installation.
(June 1, 2014) Donna Lucier said:
Daniel, I will do exactly that immediately. Thank you so much for your time and help!
(Apr 7, 2014) Jim Caggiano said:
What would cause soot on the top 5" of the outside vent from my gas propane furnace. Thanks, Jin
I'm afraid that you describe an extremely dangerous condition: improper burner operation - e.g. inadequate combustion air, wrong jets, improper adjustment - that in turn also produces potentially fatal carbon monoxide.
Watch out: a cause could be dangerous flue blockage or poor draft and sooting - risking fatal carbon monoxide poisoning.
(June 26, 2014) Anonymous said:
Sorry if this is too specific, but we just moved to an old farmhouse and today the vent (outside) that is connected to the oil furnace/hot water system started blowing black smoke and smelled of oil I called the fire department. When they got here it was all gone except for a small reading of carbon monoxide in the basement (nothing to worry about they said) and the soot that covered all the plants next to the vent. They said it might have been a backfire (?) but that that shouldn't happen in the summer. Any ideas on what that could mean? The heating company can't get out here until maybe Saturday. I'm worried we're going to need a whole new system =0\
Carbon monoxide ought not be fount at all,
Finally, a puffback can occur any time that the equipment is running. The summertime comment is mistaken.
Leave the equipment turned off pending service and repair.
(Oct 5, 2014) j.lalonde said:
We have a weil mclien boiler in
Cleaning an oil fired heating appliance only once in 50 years is incredible. That is, I'd be surprised that the system is running at all much less efficiently and safely. It's true that older slow-speed (1725 RPM) burners and boilers were pretty tolerant of non-maintenance, but it's way past time for an inspection, cleaning, and tuning of the boiler, a chimney safety inspection, an inspection of other safety controls on the system.
I would not assume that the boiler needs replacement just based on age, but if an inspection finds cracking or other costly damage it'd be appropriate to consider a replacement.
If the unit is gas fired that is even more reason for an inspection since an out-of-adjustment gas boiler can more easily produce dangerous Carbonn monoxide gas.
(Nov 11, 2014) kelly said:
i just had a oil heater technician at my house. He sad I had to much soot in my vent. Would not service heater. How come? Do I need a new furance?
I'm a little surprised as cleaning the system is the tec's job. Perhaps he means that your chimney is blocked and thus unsafe- needing a chimney sweep, cleaning, and inspection.
I infer that your heating system is unsafe.
Give the service manager a call promptly and ask for clarification.
If I were the tech and thought your system were unsafe i would shut it down, red tag it, and explain both the danger and the needed action to you.
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