Septic drainfield design & size FAQs:
This article provides diagnostic and policy or code and design questions and answers about the required size of septic drainfields, soakbeds, leach fields, and similar onsite wastewater disposal systems.
This article series explains how we choose the size of a septic leachfield or soakaway bed or drainfield.
We discuss several different conventional soil absorption systems: absorption fields: conventional trench, deep trench, shallow trench, cut-and-fill, and gravelless septic systems. Then we discuss septic absorption beds, and seepage pits.
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These questions and answers about determining the size of a leachfield or soakaway bed size were posted originally at SEPTIC DRAINFIELD SIZE - be sure to read that article.
@Anonymous,
You could 3-inch triple-perforated drainfield trench pipe but (though I'm no septic engineer, I don't recommend it.
For a residential septic system, I recommend using standard 4-inch diameter perforated PVC pipes designed and intended for septic drainfield use; changing to a smaller diameter would at the very least require re-calculation of the drainfield size and layout by your septic design engineer and you might also run into code-approval issues with your local building or health department.
I think that saving or 40 cents per foot of drainfield pipe, might be trivial in comparison with the added cost if your engineer says you will have to dig additional feet of drainfield trench.
At SEPTIC DRAINFIELD PIPE DIAMETER vs FLOW we describe differences in flow rate between 3-inch and 4-inch pipe in theory, I'll translate that into the implications for a low-pressure gravity flow septic dranfield pipe line, and on the ultimate size and cost of the drainfield.
Also see WATER SUPPLY PIPE DIAMETER vs FLOW
On 2021-08-12 0 by Anonymous - can I use 3" pipe in the septic field?
can I use 3" pvc pipe in the drain field?
On 2020-11-23 by (mod) - limits of free septic engineering specifications: must meet basic criteria
My goodness! I have no axe to grind on this point, John, and we certainly don't sell toilets here. Nor do we sell anything else.
I simply thought that comparing the cost to any proper septic system for an off-grid situation the alternative might be of interest to you before launching into the larger, more expensive design and installation of an onsite treatment system. Seems I've offended you despite the best of intentions.
In my original reply I gave some links to basic septic system design guidelines and I warned you that I doubt that any design professional can accept your starting critera such as a 110 gallon "Septic tank" and come up with an owner-built conventional septic tank and drainfield system that would work much less be acceptable to local officials.
I can't give you the septic system design specifications you want within your constraints. Frankly, as descibed it doesn't sound like a feasible design to me. Sorry that that truth offends you.
Watch out: also for the risk of contaminating your own local well water as well as nearby groundwater, lakes, streams when considering a DIY septic system that cannot handle the occasional sewage input load.
InspectAPedia.com provides building and environmental diagnostic and repair information. In order to absolutely assure our readers that we write and report without bias we do not sell any products nor services, nor do we have any business or financial relationships that could create such conflicts of interest.
On 2020-11-23 by JohnC - not interested in an incinerating toilet
Thanks but I’m not interested in an incinerating toilet.
If you’re unable or unwilling to give me the benefit of your experience on the question as asked, then I’ll take my question to another forum. Have a nice day.
On 2020-11-22 - by (mod) - propane option for incinerating toilets - minimal electrical consumption
Right, you'd need 20A 120V or more or an electric incinerating toiilet, but not exactly true:
there are propane options like the Cinderella brand propane incinerating toilet. The only electrical use would be to power the exhaust vent fan of such a toilet.
If your site is going to have propane fuel availability, comparing cost and trouble and cold-weather reliability, you might want to consider a propane-fueled incinerator toilet, at least for deisgn and cost comparisons.
If you're not familiar with this type of toilet take a look at the description at
CINDERELLA INCINERATING TOILET USE GUIDE
On 2020-11-22 by Anonymous
Off the grid, no electricity. Incinerating takes too much power.
On 2020-11-22 - by (mod) -
Short answer, In my OPINION, no. Your details do not describe a feasible septic design.
About detailed engineering specifications for your off-grid design, from a brief two line e-text I can't suggest design details, but in general if you can design your system so that it works entirely by gravity, AND provided that your percolation test, site layout, slope, available space, and seasonal high ground-water levels permit, then a conventional septic drainfield can work.
Watch out: there is no possible conventional septic tank and drainfield system design that would work and be approved using a 110 gallon septic tank.
See SEPTIC DRAINFIELD SIZE
and SEPTIC TANK SIZE
Where you'll see basic septic system design guidelines.
I wouldn't do any site work beyond soil percolation test and I wouldn't buy anything before you've got an idea from your local septic or board of health officials just what kind of system they'll approve for your site.
Have you considered the alternative of an incinerating toilet? A gas fueled unit can handle your waste at a small fraction of the cost and trouble of the system you've outlined.
On 2020-11-22 by JohnC - give me the design & engineering specifications for an off-grid septic system that includes these specifications
I have a multilevel garage/shop approx 15 minutes from my home.
I have it in mind to put in a half bath for occasional use. 5 gal/day max.
Not zoned for residential, never will.
New construction now banned.
Off the grid. In the interests of not having to dig an outhouse, I am planning a DIY dual chamber 110gal septic tank, and 50-75’ perf pipe leach field in well drained sandy/rocky soil.
From a technical perspective only, is this a reasonable design?
On 2020-04-13 - by (mod) -
Fair question, Bill, but unfortunately no answer to "standard size of drainfield"will be correct. The size of a drainfield needed depends on several things that vary from site to site, particularly the soil percolation rate.
Please see details at SEPTIC DRAINFIELD SIZE - topic home - where we explain how to determine the necessary size of the drainfield or soakaway bed.
Don't hesitate to post follow-up questions; thanks for asking.
On 2020-04-13 by bill
whats standard size of dain feild in 3 bedroom house---feet please
On 2019-04-19 - by (mod) -
Jim
Thanks for the interesting question. I sure you realize that the final legal answer belongs to your local building department or Health Department.
However I suspect the the determination you've heard his probably correct. That is if the building lot was not originally approved for the installation of a septic system then before you could legally install one you would have to apply and get that approval.
If on the other hand you have documentation showing that there were perc tests done and that on approval was issued for the original drain field you would have a different and stronger argument .
This is a question to discuss with your attorney as well. I imagine that the potential buyers of the lot want to remove any encumbrances that would prevent them from using it
On 2019-04-19 by Jim Holloway - Virginia septic system design
I live in a 6 bedroom, 7 bath house on a lot of approx 1 acre in Virginia. there is an adjacent vacant lot of about the same size
. My septic field is largely on that adjacent lot. We are in the mountains so there is very little soil on top of mostly rock.
My deed has a release by the former owner of the adjacent lot allowing me access, maintenance etc. they are attempting to sell that lot and are stating that it is approved for a septic system. Does the presence of my system have a bearing on that? thanks
On 2019-03-28 - by (mod) -
Lisa
Please see the gravelless septic design specifications
at GRAVELESS SEPTIC DESIGN CRITERIA
as that's more complete than an off-the-cuff reply.
More gravelless or chamber septic articles that can be useful to you are in the ARTICLE INDEX found above on this page.
A typical gravelless septic design guide from (ADS-ARC) can be found at
https://inspectapedia.com/septic/ADS-ARC-Chamber-Septic-Installation_Guide_Onsite_Leach_Arc_18_and_Arc_24.pdf
On 2019-03-21 by Lisa
I have a 500 gal dome septic tank and I want to use the ADS ARC 24 leach field Chambers for a 2 bedroom, 1 bathroom mobile home.There will be no traffic going across it. My questions is about how many leach field Chambers would I need? Will I need 2 end caps? And what type pipes do I buy to run from the house, to the septic tank, to the leach field Chambers? Please help.
On 2018-08-07 by Cecilia Ballard
Totally love this info. What a Blessing. I think I have a leak. My septic fills in 3wks max. Pls call 2193312035
How long does it take 3 BR single 1000 gallon septic to fill up that's been capped off. Family of three
On 2018-08-06 by Anajo Chaffee
Peirce county library septic is failing. And the smell is so bad that it is affecting my business. People dont want to come on for food and drink. The smell comes in my building. I went i city sewer 3 years ago.
The smell didnt use to come in when i was on septic. But since we have been on city sewer this has become a real problem. Please help.
I could not find which type of pipes are better to use for a drainfield/leachfield. I have seen 3 different types at lowes.
1. PVC pipe with 3 rows of holes on the bottom.
2. Black flexible corrugated pipe with 2 rows of holes on the bottom
3. Black flexible corrugated pipe that has small slits instead of holes and it is all the way around the circumference of the pipe.
I am not sure which to get and the price is about the same for all 3 of them. - D Smith 6/25/11
All of these will work if you are using gravel-filled trenches, and will work longer and better if you install an effluent filter at the septic tank outlet so as to avoid pipe clogging. In gravelless systems the galleys may use more narrow slits (and in some designs also a covering of geotextile fabric) to avoid soils washing INTO the galley or piping.
In general I avoid installing piping with holes facing "UP" in conventional drainfield trenches.
If I built a system 22x36 with 3 long 30' and 8' between them and the 8' on both sides of the center being leach line also how much effective field would I have? Ed 10/16/11
I'm sorry, Ed, but I don't think there is a straight forward answer to your question of how much more effective a drainfield will be with your specifications - first of all, what are we comparing it to ? And what are the soil characteristics? What is the design load or wastewater volume to be disposed-of? You don't say. The design and its efficacy depend on various characteristics that you haven't stated.
I do agree that leaving space between the leach lines is a good design that allows for future field replacement between the existing trenches.
i am trying to determine the size of an existing conventional drainfield. how do i go about that? - Alan H. 1/17/12
Alan, on determining the size of an existing septic drainfield, if you are unable to find as-built plans or a site map for the septic fields, you will want to review the advice given at SEPTIC DRAINFIELD LOCATION (article links listed at the ARTICLE INDEX the bottom of this article ) on how to find the location of the drainfield.
The rough size and shape of that area will be as close as you'll get without some digging and probing.
my septic and leach field have been in for 30 yrs. working great. the state of PA wnt to expand their flood easement over the leach field. Will this cause a problem if i need to replace it 5yrs down the road? Example getting permits etc. - Todd 3/3/1012
Todd I'm unsure what the flood easement means in your case but two conditions give us concern:
1. any vehicle traffic passing over your leach field is likely to damage if not destroy it, leading to a need for costly repairs and perhaps relocation of the field
2. If the flood easement means that your leachfield is subject to actual flooding, you know that the fields will not function in any sanitary way when saturated.
I just moved to a brand new house and that has a septic. I have septic first time in my life. I have some guest due to family occasion.
Alarm goes off every other day. I am told that septic tank pumps 400 gallons a day. If we use more than 400, it sets off alarm.
We have 1250 gallon tank and other tank is 1000 gallons that pumps water to drainfield.
I have a big family so I will have guest several times a year. What should I do? Can I pump it manually e.g. total 800 gallons a day until guests are gone? or Should I buy a small pump e.g. 2 hp and pump water out on a small ditch? Can I do that? What is the solution? What is maximum gallons I can have pumped? My drain field is 6 ft deep and about 500 total length. - Jay 5/7/12
Jay, it sounds from your note as if the septic system was designed to handle a daily maximum wastewater volume of 400 gallons per day. I'd start by asking a local wastewater system engineer or installer who is familiar with yoru system design to assure that everything is currently working properly since if not, some repair action is needed.
Next, in my OPINION if your regular usage is exceeding the design capacity of the system, you'll need to address that problem by a combination of steps to minimize water usage to lighten the load on the system combined with an expansion of system capacity.
To do anything else might seem to "work" in the short run, but actually the result is discharging untreated or insufficiently treated wastewater into the environment - contaminating groundwater, potentially contaminating local wells etc., and risking a near term system failure.
What is the required size for a septic system for 70 units - RV Trailer Park 6/1/12
For commercial property with no bedrooms how is the size of the drainfield determined? - Anon 7/18/12
Good question, Anon.
For an RV Trailer Park, using government design manuals [1][5] as a guide, we estimate that daily wastewater volume will be 75 to 125 gallons pe day per person, with a typical volume of 100 gpd. The drainfield will be designed to handle (100 gallons x number of visitors) per day.
For a commercial property with no bedrooms, the wastewater design volumes vary enormously depending on the type of facility. More details are
Sizing for commercial drainfields and septic tanks) is more difficult than for residential installations. Residential designs start with a simple assumption of the number of occupants and asn average daily wastewater volume (common is 150 gallons/bedroom or 75 gallons per day per person, though some sources use larger numbers).
We often hear complaints from people who say "we are just two people living in a four-bedroom home, why does our septic system have to be designed to handle eight people (4 bedrooms x 2)?" A sensible answer is that the wastewater system should be designed to handle the number of occupants that the building is designed for.
But commercial installations vary widely in the wastewater volume used per person per day depending on the type of facility, the number of visitors to it, how long they stay there, and what activities they pursue.
For example a gas station at a turnpike may have thousands of visitors per day, many of whom use the toilet facilities - that's why we stop at a rest stop - even though the typical length of visit is relatively short.
The US EPA Wastewater manual as well as some U.S. state DEC/DEP wastewater specifications guidelines have published a series of tables of ranges of wastewater production for different types of facilities per visitor or user along with other sources of possible usage volume (such as number of parking spaces).
In a separate article COMMERCIAL SEPTIC DESIGN we provide excerpts from that larger body of information.
(June 23, 2014) crystalcantua@yahoo.com said:
can i add to my existing leach lines because i think a tree entered one of my lines i have not opened my ground up yet
Crystal
Certainly, provided your site has adequate space and the addition meets clearance or property setback requirements, adding additional drainfield capacity is generally a good move.
You might want first to try to diangose the trouble more accurately. If a tree is close to an existing drainfield line and the new line is not quite some distance away, the new line is likely to become invaded and blocked as well - unless you remove the tree and stump.
(Apr 6, 2015) Anonymous said:
Have the strict rules on number of bedrooms in an existing system been softened due
to water meter records?
Not that I know about, certainly not on a country level. You don't say where you live. Tell us or check with your local building or health department.
(Apr 27, 2015) Anne said:
Can I put the tank close to the house and run the drain field across from the house on the other side of a narrow (one car) driveway?
Anne
Check your local codes on the required minimum distance between septic tank and building foundation. And watch out that some idiot doesn't damage your house foundation during excavation.
To run a septic line under a drive you'll need Schedule 80 PVC pipe as well as proper installation (depth, bedded in sand, no sharp rocks in backfill) . Keep in mind it's not just the weight of your car, it's the weight of other heavier vehicles that may pull into the drive over the life of the building.
(May 12, 2015) ken said:
I have two field lines. I can swich field lines. One is 330 ft the other 250 ft. one has gravel the other dont. both are 10 inc gravels pipe.
i think it may be to deep its 36-40 inch deep i don't have good ground seems like the ground doesn't soak the water quick enough grass doesn't grow there should i take off 8-10 inch of dirt off the topthen paint grass seed. i have to switch every three weeks. please advice. thanks
Ken it sounds as if you need two simultaneous drainfields.
You could go to an alternating bed septic design, but clogged soils may recover in years but not weeks.
See ALTERNATING BED SEPTIC SYSTEMS
(June 2, 2015) JAMES M. PESZKO said:
I am a first time user of your Q&A. I am very impressed already! I have some of these very same questions.
I am not going not going to pay some ? (fill in with your words) a huge amount of money for something I know I can fix myself.. Yeah, I might be an EE but have studied a lot about pipes, soils, etc. (Civil engineering) Can't be that difficult.
Again, thanks.
JMP,PE
Thanks for the note JMP. Some of my best friends are E.E.'s and some are stunningly sharp.
On the other hand, watch out for the "IBM Problem" - my coinage for people who are smart, know they're smart, but don't know that they don't know something. One of my buddies built a stunning deck - with very precise cuts and fasteners aligned to within a millimeter.
But she didn't know that drywall screws are not structural fasters.
So it's also smart to ask questions and find out who knows. (Which is not me, I'm only fourteen years old.)
And I agree also about asking questions of your "expert" - some are certified, licensed, but lack experience in residential construction.
The risk may be a "safe" design solution but one that's unnecessary. In Hyde Park a civil engineer specified a major excavation, house lift, and new foundation for a foundation problem that would normally be solved by a helical pier.
His design worked and was safe but it cost about 10X what was suggested later by a foundation engineer who knew about helical piers and residential foundations.
I also agree that often a smart, careful homeowner who will take the time to actually read the proper design or other reference materials for a home repair topic may do a more careful, more thorough job than a stranger who may be less motivated and who may be in more of a hurry.
Working together makes us smarter.
(June 4, 2015) Mike said:
We moved into our new house in Sept of 2014, by the first of March 2015 the toilets began gargling when flushing. I contacted my contractor and he suggested that the drain field may be frozen (I had covered it with 6" of straw) but whatever I pumped it a couple times to get through the winter.
Once spring was here, there was wet spots on the drain field and the toilets eventually gargled again.
The soil here is pretty much clay, they had put in 300' of drain field. We are planning on digging this up and replacing it. What is the best solution to this, as far a the soil material to haul in? I'm in North Dakota. thanks
I'd look into a mound or raised bed septic system if your local health department will approve it.
(June 5, 2015) Todd said:
Our field lines are seeping up through the ground and will need to be replaced. The home is 20 years old and the health department knowingly without our knowledge approved perk test in 1995 after all indicators was red.
Now we have issues and inspector mentioned it to my wife when he came out that he knew it would be bad. Should the health department be liable for currently replacement cost of $15,000 for their negligence?
Todd,
I understand the frustration one would feel on thinking that a building official didn't do a proper job.
OPINION: But you'll have a tough time proving that twenty years ago someone approved a septic design plan that was improper.
The arguments can include change of soil conditions, failure of the property owners to properly maintain the system, normal aging and soil clogging, or who knows what. I'm no lawyer (I abandoned law school after learning the difference between law and justice back in 1966)
but I suspect your lawyer would tell you that unless you can obtain a clear written statement that places responsibility on someone you won't get further than enriching the attorneys involved.
You've heard perhaps the phrase
You can't fight city hall.
In fact, you can sue city hall, depending on where you live. For example in New York article 78 of the CIvil Practice Law and Rules gives you that right, but as other writers have pointed out, the law requires that you exhaust your administrative remedies first.
In turn that means you can expect to be exhausted and financially destitute before your local municipality is going to even consider paying damages for a opinion expressed by an official off the record two decades ago.
That's the case unless you can actually prove a violation of the law.
And I imagine there will be a group of active and mostly retired code officials, health department officials, a septic design engineer, original builder, septic contractor or excavator, all standing in a circle pointing to one another.
(June 6, 2015) bob said:
From the septic tank we have a slope that drops about 4 feet in 20 feet from the septic tank, is this to much of slope to install a leach field.
Yes you can install a septic system when steep slopes are involved, Bob, though extra costs will be involved. The design specifics will depend on whether the steep slope is just between a septic tank and a drainfield that are each located on relatively level areas or the steep slope is the area into which the drainfield itself has to be located.
Generally the solution is to install leach lines that run parallel to the slope or fall line of the hill.
See: STEEP SLOPE SEPTIC DESIGNS
(Aug 5, 2015) Anonymous said:
I'm looking at buying a two bedroom home. The home built in 1960 had an old metal septic tank.
As it was leaking, the owner had it replaced with a 1000 gallon poly tank. While the instalation was taking place, I was able to see and measure the length of the two existing lateral lines from the T junction. One line was 13' and the other was 12'.
Are these lines big enough to handle the input when I have 6 to 10 people staying over? thanks Jim
No, that sounds unlikely. In fact unless your soil is unclogged gravel it's unlikely that a total of 15 feet of drainfield line is adequate for a family of two at modern wastewater usage levels.
14 Sept 2015 Tom said:
Our neighbour is about to put in a new leaching field and septic tank. Our leaching field is just a few feet
away from his property line and he intends to put his field a few feet the other side of his property line.
How
close can two leaching fields be?
Tom:
Generally your local building department or health department will specify a property line set-back requirement such as 10 feet from the edge of the drainfield.
See NEIGHBORING SEPTIC SYSTEM PROBLEMS
and see CLEARANCE DISTANCES, SEPTIC SYSTEM
On 2013-03-23 by (mod) -
Zanne,
YOu need some help from a septic design engineer familiar with both local codes AND the specific soil perc rate and properties of your drainfield.
IN all events, driving a 3000 pound tractor over a drainfield is likely to damage it by compressing the soils.
On 2013-03-23 by Zanne
Need new septic tank 1,000 gallon. Est. usage 400gpd. Permit says 330ft and specified "Septic Tank and Field Line" with no additional details.
No info was given on what type of field line (other than it cannot exceed 100 feet per line) so I would need a distribution box and 4 lines. It will be in a field where I need to drive my 3,000lb tractor to mow the lawn.
If I went with something like an infiltrator system (thinking of Quick4 style), would I be able to shorten the length and maybe reduce the number of lines needed?
I tried looking at their charts and couldn't determine anything because of lack of context.
Are there alternatives to Infiltrator System that are as sturdy but more cost effective?
On 2013-03-05 by Charles D. Hoover
Company wants to put a pipeline through my property and am concerned about whether it might be too close to my septic tank and dry well.
On 2013-03-05 by Charles D. Hoover
Company wants to put a pipeline through my property and am concerned about whether it might be too close to my septic tank and dry well.
On 2012-11-15 by Rick
Should i be sing slotted clay pipe or perforated clay pipe for my septic tank drainage field?
On 2012-11-12 by (mod) -
Dean,
The problem could be a failed drain field or if lucky.
, a blocked line.
On 2012-11-12 by Dean
I have discovered affluent seeping out of the opening to the tank. I had the tank pumped 2 months and don't know what would cause the blockage. I know it will need to be pumped and inspected, but is this more than likely a drain field failure?
On 2012-09-06 by (mod) -
Steve,
short answer: no. It would be a bad idea to pave over a septic field.
First because driving the paving equipment over the field will compress soil and risks breaking or damaging pipes,
second because covering the surface interrupts the abiltiy of moisture to evaporate (transpiration), third because covering the septic field surface prevents oxygen from entering the soil, thus preventing adequate and sanitary processing of pathogens in the effluent.
On 2012-09-05 by Steve
Can a septic field be paved over so as to put in a basketball court or similar playing surface?
On 2012-03-20 by GREAT INFO AND EASY TO UNDERSTAND
It's nice to finally find someone that puts things in layman's terms thanks, Bob.
...
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