FAQs about septic tank baffles & tees:
These questions & answers can help diagnose problems traced to septic tank baffles or tees including lost or damaged tank tees, sewage overflowing the top of baffles, baffle or tee replacement, measurement, installation specifications.
This article series describes how to inspect the condition of septic tank baffles at the septic tank inlet baffle and septic tank outlet baffle ports.
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In the sketch at left the inlet and outlet septic tank baffles or "tees" are shown in brown and light blue respectively. You can see that the inlet tank baffle or tee will direct incoming wastewater down into the tank (not zooming across a tank to rush to the outlet opening).
Septic Tank Baffle questions & answers posted originally
at SEPTIC TANK BAFFLES - you will be well served by reviewing the information given there.
On 2019-10-08 by (mod) - can septic tank baffles be replaced?
Re-posting:
Ted asked
can septic baffles be replaced?
Moderator reply:
Sure, Ted.
In the Septic Tank Care article links given at the end of this page see
On 2019-03-11 by (mod) - trace odors to their source
Before trying to fix this odor complaint we need to trace the odor to its source. I suspect that an air intake or return is near an odor Source such as a basement floor drain.
Search InspectApedia.com for ODOR DIAGNOSIS & CURE to see procedures for doing that
On 2019-03-09 by judy pirtle - house smells like a sewer tank
had septic tank pumped july 2018.since then,when central unit heat or air comes on,house starts to smell like sewer.tank was not doing this before i.
pumped,tank. Tank 50 years old probably ,new air ducts,nothing wet underneath house.i watched them,they broke concrete in chunks in places.tryed to pull off whole tank lid before finding 9by12 in.
opening futher out from home.was told there's a flap,that might not have closed back..do old tanks have 2 openings?what could it be?
Norah:
Here are several articles explaining the causes and cures for the banging noise you describe.
On 2018-09-19 by Norah
I have a new home and there is s banging noise that echoes from the elbow tube of my septiic tank. I don’t hear anyone else’s? What do I do?
On 2018-08-09 by (mod) - average cost of replacing supply outlet baffle ?
$50. or less for parts, $400. for labor if backhoe excavation is not needed.
On 2018-08-09 by Douglas
what is the average cost of replacing supply outlet baffle ?
On 2018-05-01 by (mod) -
Any mason ought to be able to make a steel-reinforced cover that fits.
On 2018-04-28 by Mb
Concrete tank cover was damaged when removal. There are no replacements for purchase. I am not handy with making concrete forms. Any suggestions.
On 2017-09-19 by (mod) - broken seotic tank baffle or tee means we sent solids into the drainfield
Darn. A broken baffle or tee means we sent solids into the drainfield, speeding up its demise by putting clogging crud therein.
You want to have new tees installed at inlet and outlet from the tank (if both are broken), and then you might be so lucky as to have the area of collapsed line dug up and repaired without having more repair work to do.
I wouldn't assume you need a whole new soakaway without more evidence that the fields are saturated or totally clogged or crushed.
But beware: don't let some dope drive heavy machinery over your tank or soakaway (I made that mistake and the whole system was crushed and ruined)
On 2017-09-19 by Sam t
We've been in our house for a year and just had our septic tank emptied only to discover that the teepipes have broken off and there's a blockage/collapsed outlet pipe to the soak away. Unsure of steps to take now as had a firm in who are suggested a whole new soak away. Any help appreciated thanks
On 2017-03-04 by (mod) - space above the top of the septic tank baffle
I don't know a fixed rule, Jim, typically that tee is an air inlet that also has to be high enough to keep solids from overflowing into the tee
- I see the tee top typically 6" above the normal top of the sewage in the tank or at least 2" above the top of the septic tank outlet pipe.
Space or distance between normal sewage top in the tank and tank lid underside is the limiting factor.
On 2017-03-02 by Jim
How high above sludge line should top of outlet tee be extended ?
On 2017-02-18 by (mod) - safe to remove the inlet baffle to our septic tank?
No, Ron, that's a bad idea and risks sewage clogs at the septic tank inlet. The result could be a nasty backup into the building.
On 2017-02-18 by Ron
Is it safe to remove the inlet baffle to our septic tank and not replace it>
On 2016-10-05 by Marty
Should a septic system always follow a straight path from the house to the tank to the d box to the leach field? We are have had continuing issues with a system that was retrofitted to our new home when the old home was removed. The system is ten years old.
The tank was replaced due to the location of the old one. When we dug up the d box today we discovered the pipe coming from the new tank makes a right turn to reach the d box. Could this be causing our problems? We never had any problems before.
On 2016-09-27 by Jon
I just noticed my septic tank had an inlet pipe with no Tee on it. I have enlarged the inlet hole on the side of the tank since the original hole had a 22 degree slope.
I then Installed a Tee. Even with the hole enlarged I still have about 1/4 of the 4"pipe constantly filled with water (before it gets to the tee and of course at the tee). Is this OK or does the sewage level have to be below the inlet pipe?
The only other option for me would be to reduce to a 3" pipe once the inlet pipe gets to the septic tank. This is because my 4"pipe is already riding the bottom of the septic tank lid. Just FYI, this is my normal water level as everything checks out OK on my outlet tee and drainfield. Thanks so much in advance and for this AWEsome site!
On 2016-09-14 by (mod) -
You may be able to purchase a plastic pipe tee whose male insert is smaller in diameter such that it fits inside of the existing outlet pipe. Otherwise you will need to remove part of the existing pipe to make room in the septic tank wall to insert and seal the tee.
On 2016-09-12 by Abby
We have to replace an outlet baffle on our septic tank. The pipe in inside is flush with the septic tank. How do we secure the new baffle?
On 2016-09-05 by Steve
Septic baffle article very helpful.
Baffles broken on my septic system. Need to replace. Also need to pump out septic system. Hasn't been done in 12 years.
Should I pump system first and then fix baffles or the opposite fix baffles then pump.
Also one of the leach fields has surface flooding.
Many thanks.
On 2016-08-19 by (mod) -
The article above describes typical repairs for septic tank outlet baffles; a plastic tee is installed; a common plumbing part.
On 2016-08-18 by April
We had a septic company come and check our 2 compartment aerobic septic system. We knew the airator was out so I had 1 ordered already. The guy was going to pump it but said the grey water pump was in the bottom and full of mud/dirt. He said the tank was cracked due to a tree root probably.
We freaked out! Thats a really expensive hunch. So we had him move the pump out of the mud/dirt just a little higher and reset it.
The other day it rained and we heard water running into the tank and the ground had decayed in, towards the Earth,like a sink hole. We dug it up. Turns out the dirt was flowing into the outlet baffle, and probably has been for quite some time.
My question is can I buy an outlet baffle an install myself? How hard is it? I was told I could cap it because I have field line sprinklers??
On 2016-06-30 by Mike s
You confirm my thinking. There will have to be more work done to make it right. Thank you very much Dan. This is a terrific web site!!
On 2016-06-29 by (mod) -
I'm not worried about clarified effluent flowing around a tee and into the drianfield as that's what's supposed to be moving in that direction from the septic tank.
But if there are leaks on the septic tank interior that bypass the inserted tee and allow grease or other floating scum layer components into the drainfield that's not good - that's exactly what the tee is supposed to be preventing.
If the repair of a septic tank baffle is made by inserting a Tee into the tank outlet pipe from the tank interior side, and if the inserted tee fits snugly into the outlet line so that there aren't any gaps, some installers may not bother to seal that connection;
if the inserted tee is letting scum layer grease or floating solids sneak around the tee/baffle and into the tank exit line that's something to avoid by sealing the tee on the tank inside during the installation.
On 2016-06-29 by Mike S
I understand your last reply. What happens when you place a smaller pipe inside a larger pipe and then have fluid flow through the pipe by gravity? The fluid will flow in and around the outside of the smaller pipe and eventually all fluid will meet in the larger pipe and travel where it is supposed to go.
That is the situation I have. The fluid that is flowing around the outside of the smaller pipe is the scum layer inside the septic tank flowing out to the leach field. I would guess that 90% of the right fluid or effluent is flowing correctly through the smaller pipe and 10% of the scum layer is leaving the tank and going out to the field. How bad is that 10% leaking through to the leach field?
The septic people tell me it's not that big a problem because the solids will not pass. I hope this makes sense. I thank you for the time you taken on this issue.
On 2016-06-28 by (mod) -
We're still waving arms and trying to understand the situation.
Look. IF the tee at a septic tank inlet or outlet is not completely sealed against outside water intrusion, effluent can leak OUT of the tank, and surface water from the outside of the tank can leak INTO the tank. Either of those is a bad idea.
On 2016-06-28 by Mike S
Sorry, I did not mean that effluent was leaking outside of the tank and system.
My concern is the space that is created with the insertion or sliding a smaller baffle pipe into the larger outlet pipe. That gap is allowing some surface water to escape directly to the outlet pipe rather than all the effluent flowing through the tee into the outlet. I really appreciate your help and value your opinion.
On 2016-06-27 by (mod) -
Mike,
I guess I didn't read carefully enough. Indeed we do not want leaks at the new baffle-tee.
Worse than effluent leaking out if the tank might be groundwater leaking in,flooding and damaging the system. Worst casees of backflow I see also cause sewage backup into the building.
On 2016-06-27 by Mike S
Thanks Dan. I just thought since there is a space between the different size pipe that scum would leak into the field.
On 2016-06-27 by (mod) -
With the exception that of course there can be a problem that you don't describe and I cannot see by e - text, the repair sounds normal and typical to me.
On 2016-06-27 by Mike S
Question:I just had the outlet baffle repaired by a licensed septic service. The concrete baffle nearly gone although you cannot see the outlet pipe. To create a baffle they installed a 3" size pipe tee and slid the horizontal pipe into the existing 4" outlet and the used shims to hold it in place. Is this a correct method of repairing a baffle?
On 2016-06-07 by Anonymous
Yes concrete.. Thank you Dan.
On 2016-06-07 by (mod) -
Concrete tank, right? Goggles, gloves, mallet-small sledge, small masonry chisel - will do the job. Drilling makes a lot of breathable silica dust that's better left in bigger pieces and on the ground.
On 2016-06-07 by Kathy
Hi. We are wanting to open another inlet hole. I have located the pre-cast hole at the side needed. What is the best way to remove the cement from said hole... Drilling or Chisel ?
On 2015-11-11 by (mod) -
Sorry Stan. I saw your note and tried to reply from my phone - dunno where it all went.
I suggested you use the page bottom CONTACT link to send me a photo or sketch as I don't quite get what's going on.
Every septic tank has an inlet opening for the incoming waste line and an outlet opening for the outgoing effluent line to the D-box and drainfield or soakbed. If there were no tank openings it'd not be a septic tank it'd be a holding tank and you'd be pumping it very frequently and at great expense.
There are two approaches to keeping solids from flowing out of the tank and clogging the system: a rectangular concrete or half-round steel baffle built into the original concrete or steel septic tank or if those are not present a plastic TEE such as those described in the article above.
Just above our discussion see my recommended continued reading links and you'll see the details.
Continue reading at SEPTIC TANK BAFFLES how to detect a lost or damaged septic tank baffle or a damaged tank tee; when & how to add a septic tank tee or select a topic from the More Reading links shown below.
Or see SEPTIC TANK TEES - replacements for lost or damaged septic tank baffles
On 2015-11-11 by Stan
I posted this yesterday and haven't heard back. I have and older septic tank that needs an outlet baffle. But there is no opening at that end where it has to be installed. So what do I have to do to install it.
On 2015-11-02 by (mod) - What materials will connect the leach PVC to the concrete septic tank?
Marty:
You want to seal the connections at the tank with any of the above
- a factory, friction-insert rubber gasket
- polyurethane caulk
- concrete/cement mix
You want a good seal not just to keep sewage from leaking out of the tank but also to keep groundwater from leaking into the tank. Examples of such leaks are at
SEPTIC TANK LEAKS https://inspectapedia.com/septic/Septic_Tank_Leak_Causes.php
So don't just leave the PVC piping at the septic tank "loose" in a hole in the tank ends.
On 2015-11-02 by Marty Costello
I am installing a new leach line. What materials will connect the leach PVC to the concrete septic tank? Does the PVC just set in the hole or is there a connector of some sort?
On 2015-09-10 by mac
How much space is needed between the bottom of the concret tank acess cover and the top of the outlet tee {baffel} to the drainfield?
Thanks
(May 23, 2014) Sophia Liam said:
Does chipping away at the concrete of the tank to put in the piping cause the tank to be more at risk for cracking in the future? This article was super interesting, so I'm just looking for a bit more information. You've got a great blog going here.
Sophia, septic tanks are normally cast with an opening for pipe connections. Chipping at the tank shouldn't increase the crack risk, but indeed any discontinuity in a concrete casting (e.g. windows in a foundation) can create a variation in stress that can be the locus of a future crack.
(June 7, 2014) Patrick said:
I've been reading this website off and on for two years as I've had ongoing struggles with my system. Recently I discovered my line was busted between my house and the tank. In digging it up and clearing it out, I also discovered that my inlet appears to be cast iron into a concrete tank. The inlet appears to be more of an elbow instead of a T.
Also, the inlet seems to have corroded and severely narrowed the opening into the tank, likely causing the backups that lead to the pipe failure. Is there a way to "bore out" the cast iron inlet that is corroded, or do I need to look at replacing my inlet (and likely outlet) pipes? Can an expert knock out the old cast iron inlet and replace it with a new plastic one without damaging the tank?
Patrick,
I would excavate the tank inlet end, break out the corroded cast iron, and if there is no intact tank baffle inside the septic tank I'd cement a new plastic tank tee in place, sealing the tank opening around the tee with hydraulic cement or if the surfaces are clean and dry, a suitable flexible sealant.
IF the tank baffle is intact you can go straight into the tank in the baffle area with a new plastic line connection, just stop the projection in the tank flush with the tank wall.
(June 16, 2014) brian said:
I currently have a single 500 gallon round concrete tank with just one lid. The top of the tank sits 5 feet below grade. As far as I know the baffles are good on either end. If they were to be damaged is there anything that could be done with just an elbow instead of a tee and still work? Could i use a tee and drill the top of the tank and run a pipe to the surface?
Brian I'm unclear on why you want to use an elbow instead of a Tee - which would make inspection and cleaning rather difficult and might increase the clog risk.
If you are thinking of inserting a Tee as an outlet or inlet baffle and wanted to extend that to the surface I'd prefer to install a septic tank riser of larger diameter, making inspection and cleaning much easier, but yes one could just extend a tee to the ground surface. Be sure to seal against leaks into the septic tank.
In the FAQs section of our sister article SEPTIC TANK TEES you'll see more about why installing elbows instead of tank tees is not a good solution for septic tanks. You may need to click to show and read those faqs.
(June 26, 2014) Don said:
Is it safe to put a concrete floor over a septic tank?
Is it safe to put a concrete floor over a septic tank? The flooring is around 4 inches, the only outlet pipe would be the one heading to the municipal sewage system.
Will there be methane problems?
Don
With proper support the concrete floor may be "safe" but it's a design that makes for some big trouble in a year or two when the septic tank needs to be pumped.
You need to keep adequate access to inspect, repair, clean the septic tank.
(July 14, 2014) Mike Brantley said:
I was charged$1,058.06 to install a rear and a front baffle tee on my septic tank. That seems very high to me for Parts that cost around $50.00. I would appreciate your thoughts and thanks for your time.
Mike
It might have been gouging, or it might have been quite fair. The parts are often the least costly part of a job. Other costs such as excavation and restoration work or pumpout if that was part of the job would of course increased the job cost.
(July 17, 2014) Keith said:
I have a septic from the 1980s and have built a new house going from a mobile home. With a square septic Is there only one inlet and outlet front and back or is there also one on the side it can be switched too. Currently inlet is north and outlet is south. Can the inlet be moved to the west.?
Keith,
Most likley, yes, but you'll need to look into the septic tank to be sure that there is (or you'll need to add) an inlet baffle at the new inlet connection
Also, watch out: going from a mobile home to a new house, the size and capacity of the septic tank and drainfield may be inadequate.
(July 27, 2014) Amy said:
The outlet pipe to our leach line is straight out and does not contain an elbow to kkeep it below the scum level.
Our leach lines continually build up with gunk. I told my husband we need an downward facing elbowed outlet pipe . He said no because then he can't flush out the leach lines easily. We don't have a d- box. Who's right?
Amy you are completely correct.
Omission of the Tee or baffle at the septic tank outlet very seriously shortens the drainfield life by pushing solids out into the field piping.
Install an outlet tee or baffle.
The lines to the drainfield should not need "flushing" - if your husband thinks they do, it's because your septic system has been pushing solids into the piping.
If hubby still wants an opening to mess with the drainfield piping he should install a D-box outside of the septic tank between the solid line feeding the drainfield and the perforated drainfield piping network.
The details of your note make me worry about the correctness of the design and installation of your system.
(July 29, 2014) Keith C said:
Septic tank is full and distribution has also been unearthed and is also full and overflowing. I purchased a sump pump and pumped all the grey water off and down to the bottom of the distribution box. I watched the flow from septic tank going into distribution box. I did'nt see any flow going thru the field lines.
My question is are my field lines full or are they possibly collasped? The system is at least 40+ years old.
Keith if no effluent flows into the leach lines most likely the drainfield is saturated, flooded, or lines blocked. Try a test excavation at the end of one or more drainfield lines.
(Sept 20, 2014) 9yr old house - continuous clogging of inlet piping said:
9yr old house. For the past several years, we have not been putting toilet paper in the toilet, because we were having to get our system pumped every 6-9 months.
Right now there is no problem from the primary tank on. With increasing frequency, whenever we have a visitor, the system clogs.
Responding, I use the snake from the primary tank toward the house and generally dislodge some visible amount of paper or otherwise release the clog and the system flows freely into the primary tank.
These days it takes someone visiting for just one night for the inlet to not work properly.
At this point I am considering digging down to my inlet pipes to find if some part has collapsed or is compromised and has become infiltrated by weeds. I've never seen weeds come out of the inlet.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Inspect at the tank for condition of the baffles, for back flow into the tank from the drainfield, and then as needed check piping, perhaps by camera.
(Sept 25, 2014) Gene said:
Can you use a 90 or must one use a T? Is it safe to assume it needs to be 16-18 inches long?
Gene
I've seen 90's but a tee gives you the ability to see and clear clogs while the 90, pointing down, does not.
The tee also will allow sewage to overflow at the tee top and enter the septic tank if the tee outlet becomes clogged. A clogged 90 degree elbow outlet will give you a sewage backup in the building.
I'd stick with a Tee.
(Nov 23, 2014) Brandy Schultheis said:
I just had my septic tank pumped for the first time. It was installed 3 years ago.
The company we had do the pumping broke a tee pipe off that was in the septic tank and also broke the seal out of the tank where the inlet pipe is. Are these both important to the proper functioning of the septic tank?
He broke them off and was going to leave the tee pipe just floating in the septic tank itself but we had him get that back out of it. He then charged us for all the things he broke. I just need to know how important these are to the tank.
Brandy
Absolutely - the broken tee should be replaced as soon as possible - lest you push solids into and destroy the drainfield.
And a broken pipe seal at a septic tank inlet or outlet risks admitting ground water into the tank, flooding it, or risks permitting septic effluent to leak out ant an improper location.
(Dec 6, 2014) Mike bevens said:
Can a air leak on the main4 inch valve going out to the septic tank cause a backup inside the drain pipe
Generally if there is a leak in a septic line you'll more likely see effluent leaking out or sewer gas leaking out.
9 Jan 2015 Anonymous said:
I had my 900 gallons septic tank pumped two years ago. Prior to that I pumped it three years earlier and after three years it clogged up. I uncovered it closest to the house today to see how it is doing and it appears to pretty full. Is that normal? The scum is about 4" below the inlet "T"
. When I flushed the toilet and watch the water entering the septic tank it was coming out of the top of the "T" instead of the bottom. Is that normal?
There are only two of us living in the house full time a only a few times a years do we have company and heavy use on the tank. I did pave over my leach field and plant plants over another section of it. Did I compromise the leach field by doing so? I have friends two doors away that pump their tank about every fifteen years.
Your advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Anon
Keep in mind that while pumping the septic tank on schedule can help preserve the life of the drainfield, once the fields are in failure, pumping doesn't fix anything
Waste coming out of the top of a tee suggests that either the tee bottom was blocked or the drainfield is saturated. Try clearing the tee bottom and checking the thickness of the floating scum and settled sludge layers.
You don't ruin a leach field with a small single event of sending it solids but yes, in general that's indeed a way to speed leachfield demise.
Tank pumping frequency is given and explained
at
Watch out: paving over a septic drainfield is likely to destroy it, first by damage during the driving of paving vehicles over the field and second because the pavement prevents part of the field's functioning that requires transpiration or evaporation of a portion of the septic effluent and third because the cutoff of oxygen from the soil will halt operation of and kill off the required septic digesting bacteria needed for proper effluent treatment.
(Jan 13, 2015) Anonymous said:
we put in a new septic leach field and we are still smelling septic
Anon I can't know if the septic odor is due to a bad baffle, but more likely there was a septic backup or spill that has not been cleaned-up, or sewage-contaminated soil has been left exposed.
(Feb 3, 2015) Bill Conner said:
I am not getting any flow into my D-box and I had to remove the toilet that was in my garage because it was broken,
Now all of the effluent water is coming out of the opening in the garage. The tank was pumped out last month but it did not fix the problem at the D-box, I ran a 40' snake down both of the leach lines and made sure that they were clear, I then tried to run the snake from the d-box to the tank and It got hung up just as it began to enter the tank.
Could it be contacting a broken baffle? and would this stop the liquid from reaching the D-box?.I was thinking that there was a clog of solid waste at the baffle area that the pumping did not remove, the tank was very full of heavy solid waste when pumped and perhaps the operator thought this was the end of the tank.
Anyway do you think using a commercial treatment such as NT MAX would help break down the clog or what do you recommend. Thank You for any help. Bill
Ugh. Sorry to hear about that mess.
It really sounds like a blocked line that's causing sewage to back up through the easiest available route.
I would scope the lines before trying chemicals. If you're lucky there's a repairable break or clog.
I would NOT want to push solids further out into the leach field - which will only kill it off more quickly.
(Mar 22, 2015) Dan said:
Hi,
I installed a new exit pipe from an old septic tank to a percolation area with the proper perforated pipe network with vertical open vents. I have tee baffles on both inlet and outlet pipes.
The liquid level is correct with a fine scum on top but I appear to be getting slight scum and partial solids clogging percolation pipes, tank was cleaned last year. How much of a level distance should there be between inlet and outlet baffles if any?
Dan
In a normally functioning septic tank the top of the liquid in the tank should be just at / below the bottom of the outlet pipe at the tank exit.
The bottom of the inlet opening is normally an inch or few higher.
But more to the point of your complaint, if the septic tank is too small or is being agitated by treatments that can push solids out into the drainfield. See EFFLUENT RETENTION TIME for an explanation.
Try installing a septic filter system at the outlet baffle/tee. That'll mean more maintenance but it'll keep crud out of the drainfield.
(May 21, 2015) vicki said:
why does a deteriorating baffle have to be replaced if it still works
Vicki
I'm not sure I understand the question, nor that I disagree with "if it still works" provided that "works" is accurate.
"Works" in my view means that a component is sufficiently reliable that we can forget about it without having to face undue risk of a catastrophe - such as a clogged sewer line and backup into the building.
So a concrete septic tank baffle with a couple of chips out of it is fine. But a septic tank baffle that is cracked, falling off, or that shows signs of having been over-flowed means that diagnosis and repair are needed, and a baffle that has been lost needs to be replaced promptly.
(May 28, 2015) Bill said:
do the baffles need to be vented and a 1" hole +/- be provided?
Bill:
Because the normal waste level in a septic tank is always below the upper edge of any type of septic tank tee or baffle, they do not need additional venting.
If you see sewage flooding over the baffle top then the tank is flooded, its outlet is blocked, or the drainfield or soakbed has failed.
Derrick Sly said:
I'm glad to find something about baffles. Honestly, there isn't enough information on their inspection and maintenance on the internet. It's a big deal, because the baffles make up a very important part of your system.
(Dec 6, 2014) Mike bevens said:
Can a air leak on the main4 inch valve going out to the septic tank cause a backup inside the drain pipe
Generally if there is a leak in a septic line you'll more likely see effluent leaking out or sewer gas leaking out.
8 Jan 2015 Anonymous said:
I had my 900 gallons septic tank pumped two years ago. Prior to that I pumped it three years earlier and after three years it clogged up. I uncovered it closest to the house today to see how it is doing and it appears to pretty full. Is that normal? The scum is about 4" below the inlet "T"
When I flushed the toilet and watch the water entering the septic tank it was coming out of the top of the "T" instead of the bottom. Is that normal?
There are only two of us living in the house full time a only a few times a years do we have company and heavy use on the tank.
I did pave over my leach field and plant plants over another section of it. Did I compromise the leach field by doing so? I have friends two doors away that pump their tank about every fifteen years.
Your advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Anon
Keep in mind that while pumping the septic tank on schedule can help preserve the life of the drainfield, once the fields are in failure, pumping doesn't fix anything
Waste coming out of the top of a tee suggests that either the tee bottom was blocked or the drainfield is saturated. Try clearing the tee bottom and checking the thickness of the floating scum and settled sludge layers.
You don't ruin a leach field with a small single event of sending it solids but yes, in general that's indeed a way to speed leachfield demise.
Tank pumping frequency is given and explained
at
Watch out: paving over a septic drainfield is likely to destroy it, first by damage during the driving of paving vehicles over the field and second because the pavement prevents part of the field's functioning that requires transpiration or evaporation of a portion of the septic effluent and third because the cutoff of oxygen from the soil will halt operation of and kill off the required septic digesting bacteria needed for proper effluent treatment.
(Apr 8, 2015) Ken NJ said:
I just had my 1000 gallon septic, 4 years old, pumped. All went well. The service man said there was a flap at the base of the inlet but no flap at the base of outlet.
He also said he could put a removeable filter on the view port which can be cleaned or replaced. All for $300.00. Also said NJ requires now on new installs. Is this sound feasible?
Sounds like a great deal to me.
Be SURE however to find out about the maintenance requirements for the filter, and to follow them.
Use our CONTACT link to find an email and send along photos of the filter and equipment being installed and we can comment further.
(Apr 29, 2015) Anonymous said:
Septic being pumped. Guy said inlet baffle is damaged. Want to put new one on. 150 cash. Said outlet is fine. Do I need inlet??
Anon:
Yes you need a working inlet and outlet baffle on a septic tank. To leave it off is to ask for a clogged waste line, sewage backup, and a mess.
(May 13, 2015) mike said:
if a septic has a pump uphill system, does the height of the inlet and outlet pipes matter?
Great question, Mike.
Yes height matters. All pumps of all type have a rated lift capacity. It's not an absolute number.
Rather, the higher the lift, the lower the gpm flow rate capacity the pump can deliver. But ultimately if the lift height is too much the pump won't work or will burn out or have a short life.
And at a properly-installed septic tank the inlet end will be a few inches higher than the outlet end pipe connection. Otherwise sewage wants to back up in and clog the inlet piping.
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