InspectAPedia®   -   Search InspectApedia

Taping drywall ceiling (C) D Friedman Eric Galow Drywall Installation FAQs
Questions & answers about installing or repairing drywall

Questions & answers or FAQs on how to hang & finish drywall:

These questions & answers address problems in choosing, hanging, or repairing damaged or cracked drywall or "Sheetrock®" in buildings.

This article series describes tips and tricks that help follow the best practices when installing drywall in buildings.

InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.

- Daniel Friedman, Publisher/Editor/Author - See WHO ARE WE?

Drywall Types & Installation, Hanging & Taping FAQs: questions & answers

Joint compound types (C) D Friedman Eric Galow

Question: use staples to hang drywall?

2017/09/27 john said:

Can you staple o93 on an how long of staples

Reply: use IRC-approved nails or screws for hanging drywall, details given here

John,

We do not staple drywall to studs, though I've seen some discussion of that idea among drywall hangers.

Attachment [of drywall] shall be in accordance with IRC Table R702.3.5. g. That table specifies either drywall nails or drywall screws.

The length of the drywall screw or nail required depends on the thickness of the drywall being installed. For example,

for 1/2" drywall installation use one of the following nail or screw types:

Concerns with using staples to hand drywall include the ability of the staple head to provide enough surface area to carry the weight of the drywall, especially on a ceiling. However some drywall installers use staples to position the drywall initially, speeding its placement, followed by installation of drywall screws.

See

If you are asking about using staples for roof shingles: see ASPHALT SHINGLE INSTALLATION for a discussion of using staples for asphalt shingle installation.

Question: where to install a filler strip of drywall: wall top, wall middle, or wall bottom?

I have a 9 foot wall and i installed two 8 foot sheets and im stuck with a 12 inch strip where would be the best place to put it in the middle top or bottom - John 5/21/11

Reply:

Structurally it makes no difference where the 12-inch filler strip is inserted, but you may find that actually taping and sanding the joint will be easier - more accessible - if your filler is at the top of the wall. I wouldn't put it in the middle because, if I understand your layout, you'd double the number of tape joints.

Question: finishing plywood walls with joint compound

I have a reinforced "storm" closet with plywood interior walls. I want finish it out similar to sheetrock. Can I just trowel on compound finish and call it done. Will it stick? Should I prime it first? What about the inside corners---how about just using latex caulk instead or corner bead?

It doesn't have to be beautiful, but I don't want the compound flaking off or the corners or seams cracking. I could put gyp board over the plywood, but prefer not to---dimensional constraints. - J Walls 8/4/2012

Reply:

J.

Sure you could just blob on joint compound onto plywood. And you'll find it sticks pretty well. But gee what a lot of work to skim coat entire walls. And unless you tape joints in the plywood you'll probably see cracks appearing through your skimcoat.

I'd re-consider laminating a layer of 1/4" thick drywall over the plywood first. Then you can just tape the joints rather than having to skimcoat the entire wall before final painting. Faster, inexpensive, and easy.

Question: applying hand-textured joint compound coating onto plywood

I plan to do a hand-applied texture whether it's drywall or plywood. So, it's no extra work to use the plywood. I plan to use mesh tape on any flat joints. Questions-- 1) should I prime the plywood first? 2)What's your opinion on using latex caulk on inside corners instead of corner bead? I did that on a remodel that had old inside corner cracks and so far, its done well---maybe allows for more flexing? I would appreciate your opinions. - J Walls 8/6/12

Reply:

J

Yes I'd at least seal any knots with a lacquer primer sealer - otherwise you may get some bleed-through as the wet drywall compound sits on such areas.

I've used caulk before painting along baseboard floor trim where the trim boards were not flush with the wall surface - with success. I haven't tried it at an inside corner as a substitute for using drywall tape. I have taped plywood to drywall at corners, with success. Probably you'll be fine. You'll need to wait for the caulk to cure somewhat before compounding over with your texture.

Question: How do we meet interior drywall installation conditions in hot south or in cold climates?

You advise that all joint compound and finish work should be done in a 55 to 70 degree environment. The problem at higher temps being disbonding and excessive shrinking and cracking.

So what do you do in the summer time for new construction? This is an impossible condition to meet in the South (unless you do it in the middle of the night, and even then it's unlikely to cool that much, and will soon be too hot again in the morning). Any special procedures or materials available? Outside air temps of 78 (night) to 100+ (daytime) are common, and inside temps typically range 85 to low 90's at best.

BTW, I doubt that premixed compound is shipped or stored at the supplier within that temperature range.
It seems we are doomed to fail if it is that temperature sensitive. - J Walls 8/17/12

This question and discussion appeared originally at DRYWALL INSTALLATION Best Practices

Reply:

Steve commented to us in email that we think that higher temps are OK, but lower than around 50F can be a problem. As for joint compound over plywood, I think you're on your own. He adds

There is USG document "Quality Drywall Finishing in All Kinds of Weather", USG Folder J-75 which is no longer in print – nor online. They are trying to track down a copy to send or email - if we can obtain a copy and permission we'll post it and give you the link.

Meanwhile, in "Finishing Drywall Systems", USG recommends that during drywall installation and taping

"Temperatures within the building should be maintained within the range of 55°F to 70°F. Adequate ventilation should be provided." And "Sheetrock brand floor patch/leveler repairs and levels substrates before applying new floor covering. May be applied to plywood, hardboard or masonry/concrete surfaces inside and above grade. Surface should be between 40°F and 80°F. Coverage: 0.75 lb. floor patch covers 1 SF at 1/8" thickness; 1.5 lb. covers 1 SF at 1.4"; 2.25 lb. covers 1 SF at 3/8".

We [DF] have coated plywood with drywall compound, including taping edges of plywood (boxing in a pipe chase) to existing drywall on ceilings and walls - OK as long as the plywood thickness was enough that it didn't flex and crack the compound. If there are knots in wood being covered with compound I suggest sealing them with a lacquer primer sealer such as Bin or Enamelac. Don't use water based sealers as they + joint compound may still see bleed-through at the knots.

Temperature exposures of a 5gal bucket of compound during shipping don't present the same risks as temperature exposures during drying on a building indoor surface.

Some drywall compound application tips for warm or hot conditions:

If you are applying a thinned coating of joint compound on a surface avoid hitting that surface with excessive hot air movement, especially in warm weather or you may cause unnecessary cracking.

See if you like using lightweight joint compound formulas when working in hot or hot and dry weather, as the faster set time of lightweight joint compound may also help avoid cracks.

J, in the article above we have expanded details about indoor temperature recommendations for drywall finishing, including suggestions from Steven Bliss the original author as well as citations from expert drywall and finishing industry sources. Thank you for asking.

(Aug 12, 2012) JJ Walls said:
Thanks, I'll be interested in learning a solution.
BTW, I doubt that premixed compound is shipped or stored at the supplier within that temperature range.
It seems we are doomed to fail if it is that temperature sensitive.

(Aug 17, 2012) (mod) said:
JJ

Thank you for the important series of drywall finishing procedures, temperatures, and conditions questions you asked. To provide ample space and illustrations in our answer, I've moved our discussion to the FAQs setion at the end of the article above;

And in the original article DRYWALL INSTALLATION Best Practices we have expanded the details about recommended interior temperature and humidity conditions for drywall finishing.

It is reasonable that most drywall finishing installations are indeed being performed indoors and at a point in construction of a building that the building should indeed be enclosed and conditioned before that final work.

A bottom line on indoor temperature and humidity for drywall work is offered by the Drywall Finishing Council:

The interior space shall be maintained at a minimum temperature of 50°F (10°C) for at least 48 hours prior to the application of interior finishing materials. The interior space shall be environmentally controlled at a minimum temperature of 50°F (10°C) during and after the application(s) of interior finishing materials, and ideally, jobsite controlled under occupancy environmental conditions throughout the finishing process until occupancy. [11]

(Sept 6, 2012) JJ Walls said:
REGARDING EXPANSION JOINTS-

I have a room with a 29' long ceiling. I'm assuming I should use an expansion joint because its near the 30' recommendation. If I do put in an EJ, it will be running parallel to framing (drywall sheets are perpendicular to framing).
Question: Should the EJ be placed over (and attached to) a piece of framing, our should it float between framing members? If the EJ is placed over framing, the drywall butt joints will be screwed to the framing, but if I put the EJ in between framing, the drywall butt joints will only be held together by the EJ.

(Sept 6, 2012) (mod) said:
JJ Walls:

from the article above

On a stairway wall, locate the control joint at the top of the first-floor wall where the top plate meets the ceiling joists.

The 1/4-inch joint can be painted with the wall and left as a reveal. Another option is to omit the metal control joint and simply leave a small gap between the upper and lower drywall, and cover the joint with wood trim.

The EJ would normally be placed at / over framing. If you are running drywall at right angles to ceiling joists, then the edges of drywall as well as the EJ will be supported 16" o.c. by the ceiling joists - the EJ does not have to be placed ONLY over continuous wood framing.

See DRYWALL CONTROL JOINTS

Sept 7, 2012) JJ Walls said:
Should the EJ be attached to drywall only, or to framing also?
Or does it matter?

Question:

(Oct 20, 2012) darlene freitag said:
When repairing drywall after foundation work should the contractor use flex tape, it was recommended by the foundation contractor?
This area of Texas is prone to shifting.
Thank you.

Reply:

The joints need to be taped; using a poly or mesh or fiberglass tape in my OPINION increases the tear or crack resistance of the drywall joints.

Question:

(Oct 12, 2014) A said:
What happens if you don't put nails or screws in the middle of the ceiling drywall? I just put screws around the sides every 12inches. Would anything really happen?

Reply:

It will sag and in moist areas fall down.

Question: roof leak caused by interior drywall installation?

(Feb 5, 2015) Cathy said:
I have a low long extended patio cover. When I purchased the house, underneath the patio cover was exposed nail heads and flaking paint. I hired a non-contractor group who charged 2200 and applied sheet rock. I live in Las Vegas so it doesn't rain very often. And I must point out THE ROOF DID NOT LEAK BEFORE THE APPLICATION. But afterward when a
torrential rain came, the sheet rock started flaking and separating at the seams and dropping debri on the tile below. The non-contractor said it occurred because my roof leaked beforehand. MY ROOF DIDN'T LEAK! Was the decision of sheet rock a poor decision for start?

This question first appeared at DRYWALL INSTALLATION Best Practices

Reply:

Cath, thanks for the question and my sympathy I can understand that you're aggravated. I'm in a bit of a bind here. I don't want to annoy you - readers are important to us - but I have to question a bit what's going on here.

Is it possible that the roof leaked previously but because there was no ceiling no one noticed the water? Flaking paint might be a symptom of leaks (though it can flake for other reasons).

Did the sheet rock contractor touch anything on the outside of the roof at all? Walk on it, poke at it?

Did the sheet rocker screw drywall using screws or nails long enough to have penetrated the roof from below?

It would be odd for installing a finish cover on the under-side of rafters that support a roof to explain a roof leak unless something unusual was going on.

It is also quite common that a leak or other building problem can exist without notice for some time. When that occurs it's often the case that when we first notice a leak or other defect, we think it has just arrived - that it's brand new. Sometimes it is, sometimes not. Often an experienced inspector can point out visual evidence that a condition was prior-existing.

If you want further comment in more detail you're welcome to send me some sharp photos of the roof from outside as well as any you have of the porch before and after the ceiling was installed. Our email is at our CONTACT link at page bottom.


...

Continue reading at DRYWALL FINISH LEVELS or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see these

Recommended Articles

Suggested citation for this web page

DRYWALL INSTALLATION FAQs at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.


Or see this

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to BUILDING INTERIORS

Or use the SEARCH BOX found below to Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia

Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia

Questions & answers or comments about the best methods used to install or hang drywall

Try the search box just below, or if you prefer, post a question or comment in the Comments box below and we will respond promptly.

Search the InspectApedia website

Note: appearance of your Comment below may be delayed: if your comment contains an image, photograph, web link, or text that looks to the software as if it might be a web link, your posting will appear after it has been approved by a moderator. Apologies for the delay.

Only one image can be added per comment but you can post as many comments, and therefore images, as you like.
You will not receive a notification when a response to your question has been posted.
Please bookmark this page to make it easy for you to check back for our response.
Our Comment Box is provided by Countable Web Productions countable.ca

Comment Form is loading comments...

Citations & References

In addition to any citations in the article above, a full list is available on request.


ADVERTISEMENT