Automatic HVAC air duct zone damper actuator motor replacement.
This article series explains both manual and automatic heating and air conditioning ductwork zone dampers & airflow controls used to control airflow through heating or cooling ductwork. We describe how to find sometimes hidden manual duct dampers, and which way to set the duct damper lever to increase or decrease airflow through various sections of the ductwork and the building.
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An automatic duct damper is usually controlled by a room thermostat, which opens or closes a metal baffle inside of a warm air (or cool air) heating (or cooling) duct in order to provide multiple heating zone control in a building.
On 2020-03-24 by James - no air coming out of zone 1 in my forced hot air heating system
Have a 2 zone system. Zone 1 is main story and zone 2 is 2and story.
System is blowing air in zone 2, but when zone 1 tries to cycle, no air comes from the vents.
Have changed the filters, changed batteries in thermostats, swapped thermostats.
When zone 1 comes on for a bit, I get a supply air limit led come on, on my zone board. I believe I have an auto damper stuck. How do I "force" my dampers to open and close to check each for function?
On 2020-03-24 - by (mod) - troubleshooting a zone damper that's not working
James
The fact that you get good air flow out of one of your heating zones tells us that the problem is not the air handler itself: not the blower fan or main air filter.
Common problems that explain loss of air flow in one of several forced air HVAC zones are disconnected or crimped ductwork or a stuck zone control damper. Our starting point for more-extensive diagnostics of that trouble are
But let's try this first:
Locate the Zone damper for the non-performing HVAC duct or zone and then try disconnecting the motor from the damper arm entirely.
That should let you manually turn the damper to open it.
If you find the damper closed and if you can manually get it open then we suspect the problem is in the zone damper actuator, and also you'll have made a temporary emergency repair to get heat to the cold zone.
On 2020-03-24 by James
Ok, thanks. I wasn't sure if that would damage the the motor or not. I'll give that a shot, thanks for the feedback.
On 2020-03-24 - by (mod) - troubleshooting a zone damper that's not working
James
1. be sure power is off to the device so you don't get zapped
2. simply try not to bend anything during disassembly; most likely you'll find that the wiring connections can be simply un-plugged
- you're unlikely to damage the motor by removing it.
Let me know how this works for you.
On 2020-03-29 by James - the damper itself is not stuck but the motor doesn't work
Well, the damper is opening and closing with no issue.
With the power attached, there is no resistance on zone 1, but on zone 2 it has resistance.
I now have zone 1 open, but believe the damper actuator or motor to be no good. I have the Honeywell M847D1004, but know they don't make that one anymore.
Should I try to find a replacement motor, or just replace the whole thing with the M847D-Zone (the newer model of the one that is on my unit)?
On 2020-03-29 - by (mod) -
James
Thanks for the photo and added M847D1004 zone damper diagnostic detail. The zone damper actuator motor is pretty simple; if we could find a replacement and if it were my building, I'd figure that as I was facing having to replace the whole zone damper unit anyway - with the M847D that you cite - that there's not much lost if I try repairing the old unit first as long as the cost is low.
A replacement zone damper actuator motor for the Honeywell M847D1004 is sold by hvacsurplus.com and is shown below. The cost is under $50. U.S. (a bit more than half of an entirely new zone damper actuator as I'll cite below).
The vendor says "Replacement for Honeywell M847D1004, M847D1012, and all Honeywell M847D Series Motors for ARD dampers."
"Drop-in replacement motor actuator for Honeywell M847D1004, M847D1012, and all Honeywell M847D Series Motors for ARD dampers, RZ3-1M 680474058020. Zonefirst models ZDS, ZDB, and RTS. For normally open, as used with Honeywell and Trol-a-Temp zone control systems."
- as they say it will work for your zone damper (if I understand the product literature correctly), that's a reasonable opt
A complete new Honeywell M847D Zone Damper assembly costs about $90. U.S. and is very easy to install - just 2 wires to connect and less than 10 minutes work as long as the installation location is easy to access.
And below is a different Honeywell M847D1004 Damper Actuator replacement photo from Amazon's sale page for the product. This one probably is a match for your zone damper actuator motor.
So if you're inclined to fool with the existing zone damper by replacing just the actuator (motor) it looks as if you might find one - have I missed something?
On 2020-03-29 by James
No, you didn't miss anything. I really appreciate the help, and the time you took to do it. I saw all of the posting except the last one you put up. Just trying to mull over my options to find my best one. Both actuators are easy to access, so any work will be relatively simple.
What would you do, would you just replace the whole thing, or try to "rebuild" (the last option you posted)? I'm not married to any particular brand name either if you have another option to suggest.
On 2020-03-29 by James
I don't mind spending a little more on a better/ more reliable option, I just don't do this for a living, so I'm learning on the go.
On 2020-03-29 - by (mod) -
That last zone actuator motor looks as if it fits your damper control. If you're comfortable disassembling and wiring the two connections, replacing just the actuator motor lets you leave the actual damper mechanism in place with least disturbance - I'd give it a shot.
Let me know how it goes - perhaps post a photo of your steps.
On 2020-04-08 by James - photos of step by step replacement of a ductwork zone damper
Got it fixed. Thank you so much for the help. Have some pics of my steps along the way.
[Click to enlarge any image]
To get the final line up correct (no pictures, needed both hands), I removed the duct from the damper and manually moved it to fully open and fully closed.
I watched the indicator on top to ensure it was correct, then tightened down the bolt on the shaft, reconnected the wires, and put the duct back on
It works like new now. Thanks again for the help!
On 2017-01-10 by New Buyer
How do I find dampers in my ductwork that were put in before I purchased the house?
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