Q&A on how-to, benefits and risks of continuous blower unit fan operation.
This article series explains how and why to set your air conditioning or heating system blower fan to continuous operation in order to improve indoor air quality by increased and continuous indoor air filtration.
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For maximum indoor air qality (IAQ) improvement in buildings: for a new blower installation we selected a fan unit which had both the capability of delivering adequate CFM of air flow and a blower fan motor duty cycle which permits continuous operation if we wish to run the system that way.
These questions and answers about running an air handler blower fan continuously were posted originally
at BLOWER FAN CONTINUOUS OPERATION - be sure to read that article.
When I am burning wood in my fireplace (in my living room, where the thermostat is), of course the fire warms the living room up, but the rest of the house is cold. If I run my fan only, during this time, then will that circulate the warm air through the rest of the house? On 2011-10-23 by Chris
Reply by mod: Fireplace need for combustion air may be making your home colder, not warmer
That sounds like a good idea, Chris except that just how effective the air handler's blower system is at redistributing warmth from the fireplace elsewhere in the home depends on some critical factors.
Typical airtight woodstoves require only 10-25 cfm of combustion air - much less than an open fireplace (50 to 150 cfm or more) or to older non-airtight woodstove. But in tighter homes it may be necessary to provide combustion air or a draft inducer fan even for these appliances.
Also see FIREPLACES & HEARTHS - starting point for making sure your fireplace is safe and working properly
and HEAT LOSS in BUILDINGS
I am wondering if having the fan on my thermostat ON, but the actual air conditioning, OFF, does that save me power? or am I basically just over working the fan and not gaining any energy saving benefits? On 2011-09-10 by hillary
by (mod) - yes
Hillary, running Just the A/C fan will move air and make for more even temperatures in the home and it will increase the level of air filtration.\
If that is enough to make you comfortable without running the A/C system, it's certainly less costly.
I have a 1968 solid metal air duct system and 1995 Emerson 3.5ton heatpump.
I bought the house in Austin TX june 2012. It is a fixer-upper. Recently, with cooler weather, when I come into the house, I start tearing, getting a headache, runny nose, and smelling a strong odor which I cannot identify (I am from NY, no mold/fungus/ allergy experience prior to arriving in Austin). Replacing ac system is >>>$$ and would not include air ducts replacement.
I have not seen any mold but in a 1968 abandoned, tenant occupied house, I'm sure there is....need help.
The headaches stop as soon as I go outside. Did not occur until last week (first wk of OCt 2012). Help!!! ivm1@columbia.edu Edgardo, who is your AC contractor? On 2012-10-06
by (mod) -
Edgardo,
See ODOR DIAGNOSIS SIX STEPS - taking an orderly approach to odor source tracking - for help in tracking down odors and smells to their source.also ENVIRONMENTAL INSPECTORS & TESTING SERVICES may help you find an expert
How can I find out if my fan is rated for continuous duty operation? Thanks. On 2012-08-12 by Spence
Can or is there a thermostat to control the fan only on a unit?
On cooler days we open the windows however our house does not circulate air well on its own so we turn the fan on and let it run to circulate air.
Is it possible to say get a programmable thermostat that can run the fan only say for 15 minutes, or some other programmable time, and have it run say every 90 minutes or some other time programmable of course. On 2012-08-12 by DavidD
Answer by (mod) -
Spence and David D there is no reason at all why a thermostat can't be used to control the fan in a duct system - just ask your HVAC tech to wire it up for you. Instead of calling for heat, the thermostat can simply turn the fan on or off at a given temperature range.
The rub may be that no matter how long the fan runs it won't, in some conditions, cool the house enough for the thermostat to ever tell the fan to turn off. For this reason, most folks simply manually turn the fan on and off when they want it to operate.
In fact there some attic vent fans that work this way, though as I explain next, those can pose a fire hazard.
We don't want a themostatically operated attic fan or whole house fan without some special fire safety controls as in event of a fire we wouldn't want that fan to come on and increase fire draft.
Last night we were awoken by a pinging noise coming from the vents that stopped as soon as we clicked the fan switch to on.
When we switched back to auto the ping noise happened again. It sounds like something is broken somewhere in a damper or something. Anyone know what could cause this? On 2012-08-05 by Rob
Advice by (mod) -
Rob, if you heard the vent/duct noise when the equipment was not running then it's probably not the equipment itself but perhaps duct noises that occur due to a temperature change (cooling night air, shrinking sheetmetal).
by Rob - I think the noise is coming from a zone damper
It sounds more like the Auto setting is sending Open and close signals to the zone damper and the zone damper is stuck or something and gives off a rythmic ping 1 2 ping 1 2 ping etc.
Also, I have noticed condensation water splashing out from around the white drain pipe, almost like the drain is clogged and water is trying to find a place to go.
I think something shorted out from the water maybe?
by (mod) - check and free up a stuck zone damper
Rob
Interesting. I suppose thermostat contact bounce or a bad heat anticipator or bad TT could be at fault - I'd try removing the TT wires from the TT and tying them together to call for cooling - if the system runs ok then we know it's the thermostat. If the problem continues it's the TT wiring or a control board.
And of course check out and clean/free up that zone damper.
Why does my continuous fan opration shut off over night? On 2011-09-07 by Charlie
by (mod) -
Sorry Charlie, I can't guess. See if you can dig up the model and serial number of your equipment, then take a look in the installation and operation manual there. Or is your thermostat a programmable one that is turning off the fan?
In the summertime, our R.H. reached 70%.
It was so bad, that the moisture from the (many) showers we take condensed from the air onto two INSIDE WALLS, with drip marks flowing down the walls. We will be installing vents in our two upstairs bathrooms in the next few months, which I believe will make a big difference.
However, in September we purchased a dehumidifier to put in the hallway between the two bathrooms.
With it running 24/7, we couldn't get the R.H. below 60%, on all three levels of the house. Even now, when we have our heating on, as soon as the temperature outside warms up a bit, the humidity in the house shoots up.
Three major problems we have: Our air conditioner doesn't cool the upstairs (other floors fine), we only have one return vent upstairs, and since we installed a high efficiency furnace, the moisture problem has definitely gotten worse.
I want to install a central dehumidifier, but we have a TRANE furnace and I've been told that only the same brand dehumidifier can be installed.
Is that true?
And is it true that only having one return vent upstairs will prevent the dehumidifier from being effective upstairs? I know this is a lot of information, but we're getting desperate. On 2011-11-27 by Nancy
by (mod) -
Nancy, if your A/C system is not cooling AND presuming that your air flow is not restricted by a clogged filter, crushed duct, dirty blower fan or coil, etc., then it's possible that your A/C system is not properly sized for the home.
Combined with that problem if your building has a source of excess moisture (wet basement or crawl area, lots of steamy showers, poor exhaust venting, pasta cooking, large number of occupants, etc), a portable dehumidifier may lack the capacity for the total space you have combined with the moisture source.
Frankly I would never expect a portable dehumidifier placed in a hallway to be capable of dehumidifying an entire multi-story home. It just can't move enough air through itself and won't pull from nor deliver air to the more remote rooms.
I agree that undersized ductwork or inadequate return air can severely limit the capacity of your central A/C system.I'd have an expert examine the HVAC system entirely: duct system, blower unit, cleanliness, air filter condition, type and location, etc. before making any costly changes in the system. It seems odd to me to be considering adding a "dehumidifier" to an existing HVAC system that already has air conditioning.
Properly sized and installed, the air conditioning system should be doing the dehumidification.
Finally, a thorough inspection of your home for moisture sources, leaks, etc. sounds needed as well.Nancy - be sure to see the article titled DEHUMIDIFICATION PROBLEMS for a step by step guide in fixing this problem.
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