This Air Conditioning Troubleshooting & Diagnosis FAQs (list of frequently asked questions about air conditioners) lists the major areas of investigation to be followed in diagnosing all types of problems with air conditioning systems and heat pump equipment.

Typical air conditioner concerns include compressor or blower assembly noises, failure of air conditioners to start or to keep running, inadequate cool air flow or air quantity, loss of air conditioner cooling capacity, reduced air conditioning output temperatures, loss of cool air supply, or even loss of air flow entirely.

Also discussed are various electrical wiring, fusing, overcurrent, and thermostat or control defects on air conditioners.

FAQs on How to diagnose and fix an air conditioning system that is not working

Since the failure of an air conditioner to turn on, loss of air conditioner cooling capacity, reduced air conditioning output temperatures, loss of cool air supply, or even loss of air flow entirely can be due to a variety of problems with one or more components of an air conditioner or air conditioning system, after reviewing the lost air conditioner cooling diagnosis procedures described in this article, be sure to also review the diagnostic procedures at each of the individual air conditioning diagnosis and repair major topics listed just below.

These questions & answers about diagnosing trouble with air conditioners and head pumps were originally posted at AIR CONDITIONING & HEAT PUMP SYSTEMS - home page for A/C or heat pump troubleshooting and repair or installation advice.

Photo: multiple condensate drains into a single floor drain - in this case an open sewer pipe. This is an unsafe installation and risks sewer gases entering the building - unsanitary and potentially explosive!

Question: dead humidistat control

Joe
We just returned to Florida for the winter, we found the AC not working by the stat just the humidistat, the batteries are new in the stat.

Moderator reply:

Joe,

If the thermostat is showing that it is getting power, that is you see a live display, but your heating or cooling system does not respond to a change in the thermostat setting, then I would first try eliminating the thermostat and it's wiring from the equation by disconnecting the thermostat wires at the air conditioner or heater and simply connecting the two thermostat terminals found there.

After all the thermostat is simply an on-off switch.

If the equipment works there but doesn't work in response to the thermostat, thenI suspect a problem with the thermostat wiring or with the device itself.

Central air unit is humming and ice/frost covered

i have a good man central air unit. i noticed it was humming loudly, when i looked down into the shaft to the fan and lines were all covered with frost or white ice.

i shut it ofg for several hours to dethawl. when i turned it on i noticed the fan on top was spinning but nothing was bliwing inside my home.

after a few minutes the unit froze up again. any suggestions. goodman model #06x140301ka v

by (mod) -

Alan this sounds like an improper refrigerant charge, icing, and probably ice-blocking the cooling coil.

Humming noises often mean that an electric motor such as your air handler blower motor is unable to start.

If the blower doesn't run the cooling coil could indeed become ice covered as warmer building air isn't being moved across the coil.

It's time to ask your HVAC service company for repair help.

Rheem AC should be kept on in FL when away

I purchased rheem ac. i was a snow bird i set my humidistat at 80 and my temp at 68 now they say you must set your humidistat at 50 55 is this correct thank you. On 2017-11-13 by Carpinetti

by (mod)

I agree with the advice that you were given

Else you risk a high indoor humidity and mold contamination problem

 

Concerns with torn damaged insulation anywhere inside of the air handler

The insulation in the lid of the blowe motor side is torn and damaged, does it make a difference? On 2017-07-21 by Doris -

by (mod)

Doris

Great question.
Yes there are some possible concerns with torn damaged insulation anywhere inside of the air handler, including

1. risk of fire or motor or fan damage if insulation gets sucked into the blower fan

and less critical or urgent

2. condensation in or on the metal covers that ultimately rusts the equipment or leaks somewhere that you wish it hadn't, like a ceiling below

3. if much insulation is lost, possibly un-wanted heat-gain into the blower compartment, increasing system operating cost during cooling season or vice versa, heat loss and higher heating costs during heating season

At DIRTY COOLING COIL / EVAPORATOR COIL - https://inspectapedia.com/aircond/Clogged_Evaporator_Coil.php we describe a blocked coolign coil and several problems that occur if insulation falls onto the cooling coil surfaces - on your system that might not be in the same area as the damage you describe.

I wouldn't sweat a trivial nick or an inch of disturbed material but if the insulation is missing entirely over parts of the blower compartment or is loose enough to get drawn in I'd have it replaced.

 

Blower fan won't run, bad capacitor

Need help on way carrier a.c. unit relay is not spawning unless I give it a push On 2017-06-09 by Carrier -

On 2017-06-09 by (mod)

Carrie

If you mean the fan doesn't run unless you give it a push, that is probably a bad start/run capacitor for the motor

Cause of loud crackling noise at split system A/C unit

Need Help with AC Sound. I have a 1.5 ton Split AC. Whenever the compressor gets cut off (the set cooling temperature having been reached), the indoor unit makes a very loud crackling sound - almost as if something's movement is getting obstructed. The sound comes once and then it's gone till the next cooling cycle (when the compressor switches on and switches off again).

Need urgent advice please. What could it be? Can I repair it at home? There's no problem with cooling or fan speed per se.

Thanks in advance,
On 2016-05-28 by Sam

by (mod) very loud crackling sound

Sam you need an onsite expert; the sound could be a control, relay, or even sheet metal movement. I just can't say.

If your system has an electrostatic air cleaner installed, that may be a normal noise of the unit zapping dust.

Question: thermostat clicks on but heat pump doesn't start, it hums. Carrier heat pump.

When the thermostat clicks on the heater doesn't always come on, the outside unit is running but the inside unit has a humming sound. This is a Carrier heat pump,does it have something to do with the air handler and what can I do? (Jan 15, 2013) Mike said:

Reply:

Mike

Look for an obstruction blocking a moving part like the blower fan

Look for a frozen fan motor, try a hard start capacitor or replace the motor if that's the problem

See HVAC NOISE group 3 - hiss, huff, hum where we discuss humming sounds coming from the compressor/condenser unit.

 

Question: Heil A/C works on heat but only cools for half an hour at a time

I have a Heil model number PH5036AKB4 ac/heat unit my problem is that it will run fine on heat no problems at all but on air it will blow cool air for about 30 mins if I'm lucky and then it just stops blowing and then u have to cut it off and wait for it to want to work again which can take any where from a few hours to two or three days please help it's so hot and I have asthma what can I do to fix it Thanks so much 5/08/14 Laurie said:

Reply:

Laurie, I agree that you need an on-site visit from a trained HVAC tech. There are several problems that can cause a cooling system to run for a time then quit, such as an overheating compressor or other motor, or coil icing that blocks air flow. Something like a low refrigerant charge (find and fix the leak) or a defective refrigerant metering device could be at fault.

A/C expert says call an expert to avoid trouble

Many of us try to fix out the problem ourselves only,so don't try this call an expert for check up otherwise it cause more damage. (Feb 17, 2014) Northern Beaches Air conditioning said:

Reply:

I agree with the A.C. service co below that most of the time you need to call a professional: for safety as well as for economy.

However it can be helpful to understand a few basics that homeowners should be checking themselves such as

- a dirty air filter

- obvious SNAFUs such as loose, damaged, disconnected ductwork
- condensate handling SNAFUS such as leaks

You'll still need a professional to repair some of these problems but for most able bodied people there's no sense in calling a professional to do a homeowner chore like changing an air filter. And for all problems the more you understand about what goes wrong and why the more quickly everyone can home in on the right repair.

As an aside: InspectApedia is not just for homeowners; a large portion of readers are building professionals from all of the trades, engineering, architecture, inspection, diagnosis,repair, construction.

 

Heat pump with gas Aux Heat - not giving enough heat

I have a heat pump with a gas furnace as my Aux heat. Air handler is 17 years old with a Honeywell digital thermostat. Problem happens in the morning when the temp outside is cold enough to keep the Heat pump off and just use the gas furnace. Thermostat is set at 67 deg at night then called to heat to 70 in the AM it will start normally but only raise temp 1 degree then air handler and furnace shuts off.

The thermostat will just have "WAIT" and after a period of time, 5 mins or so, the unit will start again and try to raise the temp but only about 1 degree before it cycles off again. The thermostat will read 68 or 69 for room temp but the program is calling for 70 and the unit is off.

Why do I have this delay? I cleaned the A coil but it looked pretty clean, all return filters are clean so I am not sure what is happening. Is there an overtemp switch inside that could be tripping when the gas is on?
Thanks for any help (Feb 21, 2014) Gary said:

Reply:

I don't know,Gary, but often when weather switches a heat pump over to backup heat we find operating defects in the backup system that were there for a long time but never evident because the backup wasn't in use.

Since your backup heat is a gas fired furnace it's being controlled by
- a circuit board in the heat pump that switches over to backup mode
- normal gas furnace controls including a limit switch on the furnace

Try watching the limit switch to see what it's doing. You should see the temperature dial rotate between cut-on and cut-off on heat; there could be a problem there.

let me know what you see

 

Question: What is the EM HT Switch?

what is the EM HT SWITCH FOR?

Reply:

Ann, no wonnder you're asking - it sounds as if someone didn't realize that EM HT would not be obvious to everyone. I'm guessing it means "Emergency Heat"

 

Question: do I increase the capillary tube when changing the tonnage of my condenser?

I just down sized unit to 2.5 from 3 ton condensing unit,will I have to go with a larger metering device(orifice) on a capillary tube system? (May 14, 2014) eric

Reply:

Eric Your system presumably already has a thermal expansion valve TEV installed. You will need to look at the valve brand and model, then review its capacity rating with the manfacturer's specifications for that device.

Some TEVs are adjustable. In that case you may be able to set the valve to perform properly. If not you'll need to change it.

For example, here is an excerpt from Danfoss's description of setting their TEV Setting

The expansion valve is supplied with a factory setting suitable for most applications. If necessary, readjustment can be made using the setting spindle on the valve. Turning the spindle clockwise increases the expansion valve superheat and turning it counterclock-wise reduces it.

For T /TE 2, one turn of the spindle produces a change of approx. 4K (°C) in the superheat at 0°C evaporating temperature.

For TE 5 and following sizes, one turn of the spindle produces a change of approx. 0.5K in the superheat at 0°C evaporating tempera- ture. For TUA and TUB, one turn of the spindle produces a change of approx. 3K in the super- heat at 0°C evaporating temperature

 

Question: AC unit shuts off after just a few minutes

(June 24, 2014) A/C shuts off after 5 minutes, blows SOME cold air when on... said:
First, let me say that I am a single woman with NO A/C experience. That being said... I took the panel off of the outside unit. I turned the A/C on from my thermostat. It kicked on, and it DOES blow out of my ceiling vents, and the air is cold.

It doesn't blow strong, but it does come out... I went back to the outside unit. I had 2 blinking lights on the pc board, and according to it, that indicates its "normal". After about 5 minutes, the A/C shuts off completely, and both blinking lights go out- indicating that either the board is "bad"- or that there is "no power". I live in Florida and it has been about 90 degrees lately, and my house (inside) has been about 85! The filter on the inside handler is clean. What can I do to get my A/C working again. I am on a budget :/

Reply:

A/C

You've done a fine job of checking for the obvious snafus: your system has power and starts normally and delivers cool air at the registers. So I figure you're not faced with an obvious problem like a switch turned off. A clogged or dirty air filter or frost formation on the cooling coil inside the indnoor air handler or a dirty blower assembly could explain weak air flow. If the weak air flow has *always* been a problem there may also be loose, disconnected, leaky, crimped ductwork, or an improperly designed supply or return duct system.

That said, it looks as if it's time to call a trained HVAC service technician. Let us know what you are told or ask again if specific questions arise. What we learn will help other readers.

 

Question: Clink or clank noise when AC stops

Heater was working just fine then I hear a clank noise as tho something was in unit the it stopped I drained the unit turned back on now it only like warm sometime in cooler side there is frost on bottom backside inside I let it set but won't warm the room. (Dec 1, 2015) Cindy said:

Reply:

Sounds like a bad control, relay, or motor. Have you given your service tech a call? What were you told?

Question: compressor cycles on and off

(Dec 18, 2015) Anonymous said:
Compressor starts and stops n and off

Reply:

Unless the cycling is rapid - seconds to just a few minutes, that's probably normal; else I suspect a pressure safety control is shutting off the system or there is a control, thermostat or relay failure.

Question: air conditioner keeps blowing fuses

My ac unit keeps blowing fuses don't no what the problem is (June 26, 2014) Anonymous said

Reply:

Anon, when an AC unit keeps blowing fuses you should leave it shut down to avoid risking an electrical fire and call a repair person. I suspect a compressor motor is failing.

Check for a seizing compressor motor or missing or failed start capacitors

Question: Optima plus AC in India cuts out then re-starts

I have a carrier ac which is 10 years old Optima plus model. I am from India. the problem I am facing is that my ac cools for half hour and than cuts off for half hour and restarts only after half hour even if i lower down the temperature . I have called many technician but nobody is able to solve the problem . One person came and changed the compressor . technician says that there is no gas leak (June 27, 2014) Dr. Chandan said:

Reply:

Chandan,

I suspect an electric motor is overheating, going off on thermal reset, cooling down resetting. Also check for low voltage.

Question: AC runs continuously but never cools

(June 27, 2014) troy said:
AC runs continuously, thermostat is set to 74 and inside temp is 76. AC does not shut off till late at night.. Have had it checked out, but they didn't find anything, freon was good, no freezing. Air is cool coming out of vents, but not cold.

Reply:

To check that the level of cooling of air is reasonable please

see AIR CONDITIONER TEMPERATURES

Question: noisy duct when AC running - creaking clicking

2014 - Barb said: when the air conditioning system is running we hear these clicky sounds definitely traced to the ductwork. [paraphrasing - Ed.]

Reply:

Barb,

Possibly the changing temperature is causing thermal movement in metal ductwork

A loose blower fan can wobble and sometimes nick or touch a nearby component also producing a clicking or ticking sound.

Question: AC unit is not giving cooling - air conditioner air is not cool enough

(June 29, 2014) LIZ said:

two things if your Air conditioner is not giving cooling

1; if Gas is not available in the Air conditioner system.

2: if compressor capacitor is out of order

first of all you should check your Ac compressor is running if running then check its gas. If compressor is not working ( and making sound as it is trying to on but fail.) then compressor capacitor should be replaced. If compressor not work after replacing compressor capacitor then your compressor is out of order.

(July 6, 2015) Melissa said:
Air conditioning turns on,blows cool air, but never reaches desired temp...what could be going on? We havent turned on the heat in 7 yes..usually run the air conditioning for about a week in the summer...we turned it on bout a week ago..worked fine. Shut off during the day..ran it at night to sleep..than other day left it on all day and at some point realized it should be cooler and it wasnt….check settings, breakers...nothing wrong..what to do?

This question was posted originally

at DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE A/C or HEAT PUMP

Reply:

Bill I think we need an onsite hvac tech to address your complaint.
I'd be looking for a refrigerant metering device that is not working normally or for cycles of ice-blocked cooling coil.

Melissa you need an on site service technician. Possible causes are a refrigerant leak, ice-blocked coil, crimped or damaged ductwork or other causes.

At ARTICLE INDEX to AIR CONDITIONING & HEAT PUMPS

you'll find an article titled LOST COOLING CAPACITY - inspectapedia.com/aircond/Air_Conditioner_Diagnosis.php

that can help you diagnose the problem.

Compressor contactor not pulling in

Control board or sensor? Cooling compressor will not start with good call for cooling. No low power being delivered to pull in compressor contactor. Manual operation of contactor fires up compressor okay. [York Champion Heat Pump - 2 boards, one attached to thermostat in heat and blower compartment - the other in the compressor section with compressor contactor] (July 14, 2014) Anonymous said:

Reply:

The "no low power" presuming the TT is working properly suggests a control board, right? But I'm flying blind here. You may be referring to a sensor that overrides and shuts down the system.

You checked for the obvious like a blower door switch open, right?

Reader follow-up:

Yes, the blower operates fine so it cannot be a blower door sensor. It is only the compressor that does not come on automatically. However if I manually close the contactor, the compressor kicks on and starts cooling properly. Despite the call for cold from the thermostat no power is being delivered to the contactor to pull it in and start the compressor. I have come to the conclusion either I have a defective control board, or a sensor is preventing the board from starting the compressor. How can I test the sensors? Or determine if the board is the problem?

Reply:

I agree with your guesses. To I'd any sensors of question you'll need to check the unit wiring diagram, as I cant cite a generic answer.

Question: AC stopped working, repairman says need new condensate collection pan

My Carrier heat pump A/C has stopped functioning.

The repairman says that there is a condensate collection pan as a part of the indoor unit in the attic of the house and that a drainage line is plugged, and the rising water level in the pan actuates a switch shutting off the fan/compressor unit situated outside the house at grade level.

He says that the pan unit needs to be replaced at cost of about $400. Is this diagnosis credible? Any alternate diagnosis and remedies? (June 30, 2015) NCK Bethesda Md said:

Reply:

NCK,

Many A/C system air handler units include a condensate overflow pan switch that will sense a rise of water in the condensate pan and shut off the air handler unit. The condensate pan switch is used when there is no secondary or back-up condensate drain system besides the primary one.

Your tech says that the condensate drain line was plugged on your system. Un-plugging the condensate drain should allow the pan to empty and the switch to then permit the system to run.

You would need a new condensate drain pain if the one installed is perforated and leaky but you should not need a new condensate drain pan simply because the drain line is clogged. Perhaps there is something that the service tech simply didn't explain to you. Ask why the pan needs replacement.

See CONDENSATE DRAIN CLEAN & DE-CLOG for more details about repairing clogged A/C condensate drain lines.

(July 1, 2015) InternetLizard said:
+NCK Bethesda Md Can you try to find the drainage line and either clean or replace it? Sometimes there's also a pump that should be checked.

Thanks Liz, for the comment.

The proper repair is to clear the blocked condensate drain. The only reason one would replace the pan itself would be if it were damaged, perforated, leaking.

 

Question: AC blower short cycling on-off betweeen heating and cooling

I recently had a new 3 ton 13 seer unit installed. It included a new compressor, condenser, and cooling coils and digital non programable thermostat. The existing 3 ton blower and heater unit were reused.

After installation the blower unit starts, runs about 15 sec and then restarts. there is no effect on the compressor unit. My tech. says the blower is starting on the heater relay and then shifting to the cooling relay on the blower control board. He claims this is not a problem but that the board may need changed in the future. I did not have this problem prior to the new unit installation. Could it be the thermostat wiring or is my control board going bad? (July 29, 2011) Charles Gullette said:

Reply:

Charles, I wonder if the new thermostat was wired exactly the same as the old one? And I agree that the circuit board could otherwise be the problem.

I also agree that it's curious to have to change a circuit board after other components were swapped out unless either there is a compatibility issue (sounds wrong) or an accidental short circuit, or some mechanical disturbance that just pushed a failing component over its edge.

 

Question: AC making revving up sounds

When my AC (Trane) is running is sounds like someone is revving an engine every few minutes. The indoor part of the system is in the attic and when the "revving" noise happens the sound below, in the house, is like a "Blue Northern" strong wind.
Any thoughts? Thank you! NF (Aug 27, 2011) AC making "revving up" sounds ev

Reply:

AC making revving up sounds

Please see

NOISES, HVAC SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS

I'm not sure about revving up - perhaps a cycling of a motor trying to start? or a loose fan blade hitting something? AC making revving up sounds

Question: Compressor overheats, frosting, expansion valve troubles

Singer incremental under window electric unit.
Compressor over heated and has seized. Tried Super Capacitor with no effect.

Replaced compressor. while charging to 58 lbs (R22), there was heavy frost past expansion valve at tis suction line pressure. No sweating of suction line. Compressor overheating. Changed filter/dryer installed a few years earlier.

Retested. No change. Resting pressure was 250 psi.

Changed expansion valve for new one. Much less frosting, but still evident at 58 lbs pressure after recharging. Now has new compressor, filter/dryer and expansion valve. No other components to change other than C coil. What's going on? (July 11, 2014) Dave in Toronto said:

Reply:

Dave, contamination may be fouling the TEV causing it to open or close erratically.

 

Question: the fan motor stopped working after overheating

the outside the fan motor stopped working after over heating so after putting in a new fan motor and capasitor i still have the same problem motor overheats then turns off repairman can't understand why this did not solve the problem (Aug 7, 2014) tommy said:

Reply:

Tommy

Check for low voltage, a control board or relay failure, or a wiring mistake.

Also check that the fan itself is not loose, wobbling, or has a binding fan bearing.

AC made a BANG then quit working

Last night my AC made like a bang sound and it stopped cooling, the AC is not icing up, it is blowing out at 72 degrees the house will not get any cooler then 80 when it reaches that temp it does shut off and kicks back on the water was not draining but I fixed that and the water is draining fine now but the AC just won't cool what could the problem be and how much should it cost to repair Aug 9, 2014) Annette said:

Reply:

Annette I can't guess at repair costs, in part because we don't know what's broken - ranging from a bad start capacitor (trivial parts cost plus cost of a service call) to a shot-compressor motor (significant cost). I'd give your service company a call. Let us know what you're told. Daniel

Cooling tower won't re-start; AC unit stops cooling after a couple of hours.

(Aug 20, 2014) Anonymous said:
We have 32 condos in my building with a cooling tower outside , whenever the cooling tower shuts off due to electrical storms or service that requires tower to be shut down my Florida heat pumps shuts off and will not start again unless we do it manually . Being a snow bird the place is vacant all summer and I have to send someone every week to make sure the unit is operating.The unit is 3 yrs old and works well

(Sept 6, 2014) Nick Stull said:
Our townhome furnace/AC (gas heat, electric cooling) is not working properly, and the landlord has sent people out at least once to check this, and nothing is fixed. We turn it on, it kicks on and the outside fan and inside blower seem to be working properly. A couple of hours later, the unit will have cooled our place a total of a couple degrees (from 78 to 76 in one run), before it stops cooling.

After that, the temperature in our place gets stuck, and the airflow in the downstairs vents slows to basically non-existent, and we have absolutely no airflow in the upstairs vents. Any advice on what I could tell them to check for? And while it is a complete waste of money, is there any harm in me keeping the A/C on so they actually experience the problem, or will this aid at all in diagnosing the issue?

(Sept 9, 2014) Anonymous said: - Freon line high side is warm
A/C is not cooling...Compressor is running...pressures are all reading good...inside coil is clean but not getting cold...low side Freon line is not getting cold or sweating...high side line is warm...any idea what the cause is..??

Reply:

Look for a refrigerant leak, low refrigerant, ice-clogged cooling coil

(Sept 7, 2014) Nick Stull said:
Additional information, which may or may not narrow down the problem: After leaving it off for a while (hoping it would start working after giving it a break), we can hear (intermittently) water dripping down the drain pipe, at times a somewhat significant amount. But even if it was ice clogging the cooling coil, that would only indicate another set of issues it could be, among which would be either low or leaking refrigerant, right?

Reply:

Nick

Your note further suggests ice-blocked cooling coil troubles.

 

New AC costs more to run

(Sept 9, 2014) Anonymous said:
I have had a brand new 4 ton heat pump 15 seer unit installed. I had a 4 ton 12 seer 20 year old unit removed. My new unit is costing more per month than the old unit. had a new thermal expansion value installed ,did not solve problem . they want to put a solvent in value cuzz they think a rust inhibitor is causing value to not work proper. Am going on 4 months can't afford electric bill.Should I go with another unit or try the solvent

Reply:

Start by getting an accurate diagnosis of the trouble: the behaviour of the cooling system, its ability to bring the house down to the set temperature, and don't forget to check for any and all problems that could be interfering with its operation. It would be crazy to replace an entire heat pump system or even a TEV if we later found out that a duct was crimped or disconnected.

Question: Compressor runs in winter mode but not in summer mode

(Sept 21, 2014) Anonymous said:
the air conditioning run well in winter mod but not in sumar

in sumar mod the compressor Heats up and stop work no Noise Not used
r 22

(Dec 27, 2014) scott said:
AC cooling works fine. Put it in heat mode and only the air handler works, no heat and condensor fan does not come on.

Reply:

Sounds like a control board problem or thermostat not set correctly

Scott

If the outside heat pump unit is not turning on there may be a failed control, relay, or even thermostat wire connection.

Question: lights dimmed and AC no longer works

For 2 days the lights in the house dimmed for longer then normal before compressor kicked in 3 day no cool air? (Sept 24, 2014) Anonymous said:

Reply:

Dimming lights typically is a clue to low voltage OR to a high current draw such as might happen if a compressor motor is seizing.

You might get more life out of the motor by installing a hard-start capacitor.

Ron said:

Thanks danjoe. The unit is only 5 years. iam hopeing its not the compressor but something causing the low voltage. thanks again ron

Mod said:

Ron

Thanks for the follow-up. If you monitor voltage right at the meter or panel that can confirm low voltage from the electrical company. Rule that out to start. You might get the motor running with a new start/run capacitor.

Ron said:

thanks for the info dan. the ac guy showed up yesterday took the cover off went directly to the run cap.

put a new in checkd Freon 20 min. later handed me a bill for 172.50

had I known I could have done it myself. knowledge is power. and MONEY. still not sure they go out thanks again.

 

Question: nothing turns on inside when we turn on the AC

(Sept 26, 2014) Anonymous said:
thanks for the info dan. the ac guy showed up yesterday took the cover off went directly to the run cap. put a new in checkd Freon 20 min. later handed me a bill for 172.50 had I known I could have done it myself. knowledge is power. and MONEY. still not sure they go out thanks again.

Sept 29, 2014) Roger said:
We have a 'heat pump', the outside unit starts up when required, how ever, the inside blower does not always come on. It works ok sometimes, but not always. When working normal, the temp is great.

(Oct 9, 2014) Ronda said:
We have a heat pump/ air conditioner unit. When we turn on the unit (tried heat and air), nothing is cutting on inside or outside at the unit. We have a Honeywell RTH6350D programmable theromstat and changed the fan from auto or on and even that is not working. Any suggestions on what could be the problem?

Reply:

Ronda
I'd start by confirming that there is electrical power to the devices. Also check for an open blower door or a condensate overflow pan that is full.

 

Question: York electric AC heat pump not working - fan keeps going

(Dec 8, 2014) Sharon L said:
Hi, I have a 10+ year old York electric ac/ heat pump. My heat was on (but the "heat on" notation on my thermostat didn't read that it was on and the fan kept running for hours. Is this normal? I am just wondering why the fan kept running while the house was not being heated---or not according to my thermostat anyway.

Reply:

Sharon if the heating system fan runs indefinitely I suspect that at the thermostat or at a fan limit switch the fan was set to ON rather than AUTO, OR the system was unable to reach the thermostat set temperature - a problem that deserves a service call.

 

Question: condensate runs down side of our AC Heat Pump

(Dec 16, 2014) Andy said:
We have an ac/heat pump. Condensation is running down the side of the unit from about 3/4 way up, then running off the roof, so much so it leaves a lg puddle on the patio. When the unit runs and shuts off this stream is constant but slows to a drip if the unit has not run in a while.What could be the problem or is this normal. I don't recall this happening in prior yrs

Reply:

Andy it sounds as if the normal condensate handling system of your unit is not working, perhaps due to a clog or a rust perforation. It's not normal to see water running on the outside of the unit. Ask your HVAC service company to take a look. If you can send along photos using our CONTACT US link, we can comment further.

 

Question: control board problem in AC unit

(Jan 5, 2015) George Kubo said:
Heat Pump fan comes on when you turn on the thermostat for heat but goes off after a minute. There is 24 volts on contractor relay coming from the control board when the fan is on BUT there is not 24 volts coming out of the control board to the contractor relay when the fan turns off. Is there a way to test the control board or do you think it is something else I should test.
Thanks,George

Reply:

George

I agree that it sounds like a control board problem. For someone not an HVAC tech a reasonable start is a close visual inspection of the board for loose or burned components.

 

Question: condensor fan in Heat has not spining

(Jan 5, 2015) kevin said:
Hello.
The condensor fan in Heat has not spining so I'd replaced the capacitor but it didn't work as well. So I tested it in Cool and it blowed a cool air. I assummed that the air conditioner would not work as well. I am confused what's happing on my heat pump. Thanks for in advance.

Reply:

Kevin I'm confused too. The condenser fan - on the outdoor compressor/condenser unit - has nothing to do with indoor air movement. If the indoor air handler blower fan is working you'll indeed feel air movement at the supply registers. The temperature of that air depends - if your system is a heat pump and if there is backup heat that takes over in very cold weather, then in heating mode you'd expect to feel warm air at the supply registers.

 

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